nordstrom product group construction manual design...for 2pc/dresses, 4 for general) 2nd portion is...

Nordstrom Product Group

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL• Womens Division• 14th & Union – Abound – Free Press – Susina

MAY 2019

In reviewing the Construction manual table of content, please reference below diagram to locate the accurate page. Our naming format is as below:

“ 1 – W – pockets – A ” 1st portion is the number of the top main category. (1 for Tops, 2 for Bottoms, 3 for 2pc/Dresses, 4 for General) 2nd portion is the letter for the fabric type. (W for woven, K for Knits, S for Sweaters, G for General) 3rd portion is the descriptive file name 4th portion is the end letter for variations

“1-W-Sleeve Setting-A” for example: this is a construction method for a Top, made with woven fabric, on how to set sleeves, construction variance A As always, please contact your technical designer should you have any questions.

Table of Contents Women’s Tier 3

1-K-Neck Edge Finish-A 1 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-B 2 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-C 3 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-D 4 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-E 5 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-F 6 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-G 7 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-H 8 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-I 9 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-J 10 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-K 11 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-L 12 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-M 13 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-N 14 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-O 15 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-P 16 1-K-Placket interlining 17 1-K-Raglan Seam Finishes-A 18 1-K-Raglan Seam Finishes-B 19 1-K-Shoulder Seam-A 20 1-K-Sleeve Body Construction 21 1-S-Armhole Castoff 22 1-S-Hanging Pocket Bag Standards 23 1-S-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Pattern 24 1-S-Matching Standards 25 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-A 26 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-B 27 1-S-Sleeve and Bottom Opening Standards 28 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-A 29 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-B 30 1-W-Armhole Finish 31 1-W-Back Vent Lining Construction-B 32 1-W-Blouse Darts 33 1-W-Collar and Collar Bands 34 1-W-Collars on Jackets 35

1-W-Interlining on Collar Bands 36 1-W-Interlining on Lined Jackets 37 1-W-Interlining Standards 38 1-W-Lapel and collar on jacket 39 1-W-Lapel basting 40 1-W-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Pattern-B 41 1-W-Pockets Inside of Pocket Flaps and Epaulettes 42 1-W-Pockets Patch Pockets-B 43 1-W-Pockets Welt Pockets 44 1-W-Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and Fusing 45 1-W-Sleeve Vent Construction on Jackets 46 1-W-Zippers 47 2-W-Alterable CB Standard-B 48 2-W-Bottom lining rises 49 2-W-Bottom lining seaming 50 2-W-Denim Button Placement 51 2-W-Lining Standards-A 52 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-A 53 2-W-Pockets Faux Back Pocket 54 2-W-Pockets-Pant Pocket Bags 55 2-W-Seam allowances-A 56 2-W-Seam allowances-B 57 2-W-Seam allowances-C 58 2-W-Waistband Closures 59 2-W-Waistband tab extension 60 2-W-Waistband-A 61 2-W-Waistband-B 62 2-W-Waistband-C 63 2-W-Waistband-D 64 2-W-Waistband-E 65 2-W-Waistband-F 66 2-W-Waistband-G 67 2-W-Waistband-H 68 2-W-Waistband-I 69 2-W-Waistband-J 70 2-W-Waistband-K 71 2-W-Waistband-L 72 2-W-Waistband-M 73 2-W-Zipper Fly Hook and bar and button 74 2-W-Zipper Fly Profile Stitching Fly Bartack Placement 75 2-W-Zippers on Skirt 76

4-G-Bead and Sequin 77 4-G-Belt-A 78 4-G-Beltloops-A 79 4-G-Button Position for jacket 80 4-G-Button Setting Method-A 81 4-G-Button Setting Method-B 82 4-G-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 83 4-G-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 84 4-G-Buttonholes Types and Size 85 4-G-Fabric handling 86 4-G-Grainline Direction Blouses-B 87 4-G-Grainline Direction Bottoms 88 4-G-Grainline Direction Jackets 89 4-G-Grainline Sweater 90 4-G-Hanger loops 91 4-G-Hardware Attachment 92 4-G-Hems 93 4-G-Pressing-A 94 4-G-Pressing-C 95 4-G-Pressing-D 96 4-G-Pressing-E 97 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-A 98 4-G-Stitch Terminology 99 4-G-Thread Loop-B 100 4-K-Hems-A 101 4-K-Hems-B 102 4-K-Hems-C 103 4-K-Hems-D 104 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 105 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 106 4-W-Interlining-A 107 4-W-Standard Seam 108

Coverstitch

Necklines - Neck Edge FinishRequirement for Neck Extended Minimum12” on the half measure (24” total)

Coverstitch- 1/8” gauge Bottom Coverstitch Type #406 - Turn tolerance + 0 / -1/16”

Quality Points:- Fabric edge must be covered evenly- Raw edge past the outside needle is not acceptable

Note: 1/2” indicates to 2nd needle

Seam Type Efa Inv

Turn & Bottom Cover

001


Clean Finish with Lining, Single Needle

Chain Understitch- Join shell to lining with Single Needle Chain Type #401- Turn and understitch to include 1/4” clear elastic with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401

Quality Points- Seam must be smooth and flat - Raw edge is not acceptable

Clean Finish

002


Clean Finish with Lining, 1/8” gauge Bottom

Coverstitch Understitch- Join shell to lining with Single Needle Chain Type #401- Turn and understitch to include 1/4” clear elastic with 1/8” gauge Bottom Coverstitch Type #406

Quality Points- Seam must be smooth and flat - Raw edge is not acceptable

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.Note: 1/2” indicates to 2nd needle

Clean Finish

003

3 Needle bottom cover stitchat edge

Binding - inside no turn

Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:

3 Needle Bottom Cover stitch at Edge

Binding with 3 needle bottom cover stitch at edge

004

Single thread chain stitch

Binding - inside turned under

Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:

Binding With Single Thread Chain Stitch

Binding with single thread chain stitch

005

2 Needle bottom cover stitchstraddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:

2 Needle Bottom Cover stitch straddling seam

Inset with 2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam

006

Inset Neck Trim

3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitchstraddling seam


3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam

Inset trim with 3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam

007

Inset Neck Trim

2 needle 4 threadcover stitch straddlingseam


2 Needle 4-Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam

Inset trim with 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch straddling seam

008

Inset Neck Trim



Single Thread chain Stitch

Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge

009

Inset Neck Trim


Trim covers back neck join seam


Single Thread chain and Back Trim

Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge and trim covering back neck join seam

010

2 Needle Bottom cover stitchstraddling seam

Mitered V Neck

Inset Neck Trim

V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle Bottom Cover Stitch Straddling Seam

2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam

011

Inset Neck Trim

Mitered V Neck

3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitchstraddling seam

V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim

3 Needle 5 Thread Cover Stitch Straddling Seam

3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam

012

Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle 4 Thread cover stitchinside needle on join seam

Lapped V Neck

V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle 4 Thread Cover Stitch Inside Needle on Join Seam

2 needle 4 thread cover stitch inside needle on join seam

013

Inset Neck Trim

Lapped V Neck

Lock stitch at edge

V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim

Lock stitch at edge

014


Inside Binding- Clean finish with designated fabric bias set to inside- Refer to VCS for binding width

Turn and under stitch to inner binding and close with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401 or if binding is on fold, turn under to inside and single needle topstich down at designated width

Quality Points- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat- Binding must not have roping or be puckered

Inside Binding#2B#1 #3#2A Or

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.

015


Neck Binding- 1/4” binding set with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401

Quality Points- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat- Binding must not have roping or be puckered

Seam Type BSc

Binding

016

FRONT PLACKETS

▪ Set interlining to top layer of front and back placket facings.

▪ Set all buttonholes vertically.▪ Fold and set facing with SN/Lock.

Clean finish.▪

017

3-Thread overlock Seam Allowance

Self fabric binding w/single needle lock stitch

Binding - inside turned under -clean finished at join seam

Bound Neck Edge With Over Lock Seams Binding with single needle lock stitch at edge and over locked seam

018

Self fabric binding w/single needle lock stitch

Self fabric binding over seam allowance

Binding - insideturned under -clean finished at join seam

Bound Neck Edge With Bound Seams Binding with single needle lock stitch at edge and bound seams

019

SHOULDER SEAM

1/4” Clear Elastic must be set in join seam at shoulder.

BACK BACK

CLEAR ELASTIC TAPE

Note:

020

SLEEVE AND BODY CONSTRUCTION

1. Join shoulder seam2. Join sleeve cap to armhole3. Close sleeve seam and side seam in 1 operation4. Turn back sleeve and body hem▫ Stitch as requests in spec pack construction▫

Note: Do NOT turn back hems before step 3.

2.

1.

3. 4.

Hem should be clean finished at bottom edge

021

PANEL CONSTRUCTION AT ARMHOLE

Missy - Lower Armhole Castoff

1” Cast off

Missy-lower armhole castoff

lower edge ofarmhole is cast off/knitted straight for 1”

Tier 1 - Lower Armhole Castoff

1 1/2” Cast o�

Encore-lower armhole castoff

lower edge ofarmhole is cast off/knitted straight for 1 1/2”

022

HANGING POCKET BAG STANDARDS

Quality Point

▪ Pocket opening can be made with various stitches and will be specified in VCS

▪ Make with jersey stitch continuous piece.▪ Close the both sides of pocket bag by linking.

023

MATCHING PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNSRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes and patterns unless otherwise statedin the specification package.

Matching Standards

Collar Paired and balancedCollar band Paired and balancedCuffs Paired and balancedBack Yoke Prominent stripe/plaid to be centered vertically or

horizontallyFronts Left and right fronts to be paired and horizontally matched

Left and right fronts to be vertically paired from centerPockets Matched horizontally and vertically to the frontBack Prominent stripe/plaid to be centeredSleeves Paired and balanced

sleeve notchFront Plackets Prominent stripe/plaid must be centeredSide seams Matched horizontally

For uneven fabric plaid, stripe or pattern repeats, need to follow special instructions on the VCS.

When selecting matching lines, avoid bright or narrow contrast lines at dart points.

Note:

024

MATCHING STANDARDS

CablesPlace cables balanced between left and right side of garment, unless otherwise specifiedin style specification package. Note: Follow specification package for style specific directions.

Plaids, Stripes, and PatternsRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes, and patterns unless otherwise stated in the specification package.

TerminologyFully Balanced = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body(Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and /or vertically in each garment.One way match = horizontalTwo way match = horizontal and vertical

Matching Tolerances

0” for presentation areas: center front

025

NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

V Neck

▪▪

Double layer neck trim ▪ Also, it needs to be knotted at beginning

and the end of each linking. These knots will later be secured by linking the neck trim to body.▪

Single layer neck trim▪

Crew Neck

▪ See VCS for construction details

026

NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Half Zip Mock

▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side panels must be balanced at neck seam and neck opening.▪ Set 5/8” wide full needle rib tape inside of garment. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Full Zip Front

▪ Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side. ▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck and bottom opening.▪ Set 1” wide 5/8” wide full needle rib tape facing. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Button Front

▪ CF Placket can be made with continuous tape with full needle, rib single layer, or jersey double layer.

▪ Set buttons at wearer’s right hand side and buttonholes at wearer’s left hand side. ▪ Utilize thread shank for the buttons to prevent curves at edge of CF placket after button. ▪ If buttons are used, buttons will mainly be set in the vertical direction. Exceptions will

be defined in VCS.▪ Set neckband button and buttonhole so that when buttoned all buttons align

027

SLEEVE AND BOTTOM OPENING STANDARDS

Variations

▪ 1x1, 2x2, 2x3, or 3x3 Single start rib or double layer layer rib.▪ Jersey tubular or Full needle.▪ Links and links.

Quality Point

▪ Linked seams must be secured to prevent unravel.

028

SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

All Sweaters should have clear elastic set to the back shoulder seam, unless the shoulder seam is fully fashioned and set to the back.

Fully Fashioned shoulder seam to back

Clear elastic

029

SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

Tubular Neck Trims - Fine Gauge

Cast off shoulder seam and link together, stabilize with DTM Nylon Taping. Tubular Neck Trims: catch endof DTM Nylon Taping insidetubular when linking neck trim(�ne and chunky gauges)

Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam

Non-Tubular Neck Trims - Fine and Chunky Gauge

Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam

Non-Tubular neck trims:fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at endand tack down along necktrim seam. (�ne andchunky gauges)

030

▪▪

▪

▪

Clean finish armhole with self fabric bias binding set to inside. For exceptions of fabric and width of binding refer to VCS.

Join bias binding to armhole with Single Needle Lockstitch Type #301 Turn and under stitch inner binding to seam allowance with Single Needle Lockstitch #301Turn inside edge of the bias binding and close with Single or Double Needle Lockstitch as required (see VCS for call out on margin and needle gauge)While setting the sleeve extra care should be taken while the operator is sewing through curved armhole to avoid puckering and fullness

Outside View

Note: Follow VCS for style speci�c directions and exceptions.

ARMHOLES

Sleeveless-Armhole Finish

031

Back Vent Lining Construction

Jacket VentsThe lining is seamed along the vent edge on the outside extension. The seam allowanceis understitched along the edge of the vent, but not across the top of the vent.

Do not bar tack the top of the vent or slit as this makes alterations difficult. Be sure thatthe fusible extends past the top of the vent to reinforce the stress point.

We do not accept mitered corners on vents.

Vent facings should be 1 1/2” + 1/2” seam allowance. The back vent should be basted closed with an “X” on lapped vents and a tack on butted vents. See Diagram A.

RIGHT SIDE WEARING

K

CA

B R

ETN

EC

SEAMED ALONGVENT EDGETO OUTSIDEVENT EXTENSION

BOTTOM

1 1/2”OVERLAP

UNDERSTITCHSEAM ALLOWANCE

LINING

Diagram A

Vent

Slit

Vent NO VISIBLEANGLE STITCH, SECURE AT INSIDEOF JACKET

SECURE EDGE OF VENT WITH TWO TACKS AT EDGE

032

DARTS▪ Dart stitch line must follow the edge of the dart fold for 3/4” (±1/4”) at start and end

▪ The dart must be formed with Single Needle Lockstitch Type #301 and/or 4 thread Overlock Stitch Type #512 based on fabrication

▪ Knot off the ends by hand or machine run-off▪ Leave 3/8” of thread ends off from the machine ▪ Vertical dart pressed towards center▪ Horizontal/Diagonal darts pressed downwards

Front Back

ACCEPTABLE METHODSFOR SEWING OFF DART ENDS

Knotted End Machine End

(+/-1/8”)3/8” 3/8”

3/4”

3/4” (+/-1/4”)

(+/-1/4”)

Seam Type OSf

Darting (Panel not cut)

033

COLLAR AND COLLAR BANDS

Quality Points

▪▪▪


Collar and collar band operations must be single needle lockstitch, ISO# 301.Collar band must be squared to front edge to avoid gapping between neck seam and the 1st body button. Collar and collar band must be clean finished.

The collar points need to be turned carefully. No visible holes on the corner points Corner points are well turned and shaped to form a sharp corner or smooth curve Collar and collar bands must be even and symmetrical

034

SETTING COLLAR

Collar Setting

Under Stitch

Under Pressing

1” 1”

We expect that the collar be “barrel” set to the body. The top collar is set to the front facing and back lining and the under collar is set to the body. The neckline seams are “busted” (pressed open) and the seam allowances are basted together. Stop the collar basting 1” from the collar notch.

After forming the collar and lapel, we expect that the seams along the edges will be under stitched to keep the under collar and lapel from rolling out. The under stitch can be replaced by an under press operation depending on fabric. When edges are top stitched, no under stitch is required.

We expect that collars and lapels be under pressed before continuing to next operation. Please avoid over pressing. Do not create seam impressions and “shine” on the collar and lapel edges.

035

INTERLINING ON COLLAR AND BAND

COLLAR

Apply interlining to outer collar in direction of grain.Apply bias interlining to under collar.Once the band and collar have been joined, apply stabilizer to the collar band at the neck seam.

Block fusing is also acceptable.

Outer Collar and Band

Under Collar and Band

InterliningAngle of LineRepresentsGrainlineof Interlining

Shell

036

Body Pieces: Layer 1

Interlining: Fully Lined Jackets: Fusing

The front panel should be fully interlined.The Princess, side panels and back are interlined for 2” at the armhole and hem. Upper Back can be stabilized in either of the 2 options:A. Fused PanelB. Lapped Percaline

Exceptions to be confirmed by TD▪Loosely woven fabrics▪Fabric with long floats▪Light weight▪Light color

Front Back

2”

SidePan

2”

Front

2”

2”

OVERLAP PERCALINEAT CENTER BACKTO ADD “GIVE”

OPTION 2 METHODPERCALINE AT BACK

1. Full front2. Under arm3. Bottom hem4. Upper back (2 options) A. Fused panel B. Non fused lapped Percaline

FUSIBLEINTERLINING

037

INTERLINING STANDARDSPlease follow Bill of Materials needed for interlining Quality.

Woven Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Bond strength▪Show through▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.▪Verify heat setting on fusing machine at least twice a day.

Woven Non - Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.

038

Under collar to beshorter and narrower than the top collar

Front

Facing to be longer and wider than body

at top of lapel

Facing to be shorter and narrower than body at bottom edge

LAPEL - Forming Lapel and Collar Lapel

In order for the front facing to roll and lay correctly, make the following adjustments to the pattern

1. Make the lapel point longer and wider by 1/8” - 1/4” 2. Shorten facing by 1/8” - 3/16” at hemline 3. Make 1/16” - 1/8” narrower beginning at hemline. Blending to 0” at breakpoint

Collar

The collar points should roll toward the body. Under collar is smaller then upper collar to have small roll. Ease may need to be adjusted depending on fabric thickness and jacket style. *Steam set the lapel and use slight pressure with hand iron to set the lapel breakpoint.

039

BASTING PEAK LAPEL STANDARDS

3/8”

On a peak lapel, the lapel and collar must be basted so that they do not separate when wearing.Make an invisible basting stitch from the join of lapel and collar to 3/8” from edge to collar.

Fold over collar edge

The front collar edge to fold over onto the undercollar to give a clean appearance.

040

Matching Standards - Woven Tops & BottomsPlacement Sketch Matching

TopsTop Collar Points Paired

Sleeves, cuffs, sleeve plackets

Paired

Front Body, Pocket Match

Front Placket Dominant strip in center

Fronts - Bias Paired

Split Back Yoke Paired

BottomsWaistband Center plaid in waistband at CF

Front Match & Paired at CF

Back Match & Paired at CB

Pockets - Back Paired

CBv

CBv

BackBack Front

041

1/4” 1/4”

1/4”

1/8”

STEPPED TRIMMING IS IDEAL

INSIDE OF POCKET FLAPS AND EPAULETTES

Insides of pockets should be sewn with 1/4” seams trimmed to 1/8” at corners.

On straight seams, stepped trimming is ideal.

Pocket flaps are self lined, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

042

PATCH POCKETS

Invisible stitch patch pockets should be reinforced at the top corners only if requested.

043

INVISIBLE STITCH STANDARD

(STITCH IN THE DITCH)

1/2”

1/2”

LEAVE 1/2” FREE ATBOTH ENDS

BASTING STITCH

TOP STITCH ONLYWHEN SPECIFIED

Angle Welt Pockets

NIARG

WELT POCKETS

Welt pockets should be loosely basted closed with a basting stitch, leave 1/2” open at each end.

Single Welt pockets are to be tacked on both ends with an “invisible stitch” unless otherwise specified.

044

Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and FusingIf an Automated sleeve setting machine is not available, cap must be preshirred with 1-2 rows of single needle basting or chain stitching. Do not use automated shirring. Shirring must be evenly distributed around the sleeve cap, but should not extend below the arm hole notches.

Sleeve must be set using a lock stitch.

Armhole seam allowance must be clipped at 2” from shoulder point front and back after sewing. Press open the seam allowance at the top of the sleeve cap.

Sleeves need to look the same from left to right.

The sleeve head should be a single piece, long enough to fit between the sleeve cap notches. The sleeve head should sit slightly to the back of the sleeve. Based on fabrication it is acceptable to recommend playful headers or self fabric folded bias as the sleeve head.

FOLD LINE

INTERLINING

SLEEVE HEADER

045

Sleeve Vent ConstructionConstruction should be alterable and not mitered.

For light weight fabrics, roll the seam allowance towards the vent, starting 3” above the vent.

For heavy weight fabrics, clip the seam allowance and press the seam open all theway to the top of the vent.

INSIDE VIEW - VENT DOWN

HEAVY WEIGHT FABRICSLIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS

INSIDE VIEW - VENTFOLDED UP TO SHOWCONSTRUCTION

046

ZIPPERS

Preferred Suppliers

YKKZipper Quality

Must meet NPG Zipper Standard NPS-25Refer to Nordstrom Supplier Web site: www.nordstromsupplier.com/npg/apparel/quality & manufacturing.htm selecting the Performance Speci�cations link under Apparel Testing ProgramShortened zippers must be self fabric wrappedStitch zipper tape to seam allowances, preventing slider from reaching the zipper end

UU

Invisible zipper without extension

1/4”

Side Zipper closing up

1 1/2”(+/-1/2”)

As specified

Side Zipper closing down

1 1/2”(+/-1/2”)

As specified

YKK

1/4“

YKK

1/4“

Caslon - Halogen Only

YKK

1/4“Lined

Note: Follow VCS for style speci�c directions.

047

Alterable Center BackFor alterable waistband the seam allowance is 1” at CB seam. Stitch CB seam after waistband is set. This must be a continuous seam from top of waistband seam. Press center back seam open before stitching down waistband.

INSIDE WAISTBAND

Binding

CB

Sea

m

Cen

ter B

ack

Sea

m

Inside Waistband

OutsideWaistband

1”

3/8”

Bias Binding

Outer Shell WaistbandRollover 1/16”Toward Inside

Fold back seam allowance to avoid raw edges showing on finished waistband

Taped back riseFor unlined pants only

048

SEAMS

Pants and Skirts

Body construction seams are pressed open except when top stitched. We do not accept clipped seam allowances. All back rise seams without topstitch have to be stitched two times with a SN/Chainstitch. For back rise with 2N/C topstitch the preferred seam construction is a felled seam.

InseamIf styling allows, close inseam before closing front and back rise.

Back Rise (alterable) Back Rise (regular)

3/8” seam allowance 3/8” seam allowance

049

LININGSeams

Fully Lined Garments: Lining length is 1” shorter then shellFor Half Lined Pants:

Lining inseam is 17”The lining must be:▪ 1 size larger than shell for non-stretch fabric▪ 1/2 size larger than shell for stretch fabric

Over Vents:▪ Minimum of 1/4” of ease must be built into the seam above knee

Darts:▪ Darts do not need to be sewn into the lining, but must be formed as pleats

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzPRESS SEAM

TOWARDS BACK

FRONT BACK

PLEATS

zzzzzz

zzzzzz

zzzzzz

zzz

5/8”

MA

EST

UO

3 thread overlockand chainstitch

050

DENIM DETAILS

Denim Button Placement

UU

V V

V V

SHANK PLACEMENTLINES UP WITH CENTER OF ZIPPERCHAIN.

V V

VV

aaa

a a a a a aa a a a a a a aa

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

aa a a a a

V V

V V

1/2”

LEFT SIDE WEARING

VV

051

LINING

Pants and Skirt

Lining to be larger than shell to avoid drag lines on garment or discomfort for wearer.

Do not sew dars into the lining, fold fabric into pleats.

Lining seams must be merrow or overlock finished.

052

POCKETS - BOTTOMS

Fold Over vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vv

3 1/2”

1/2”

Stitch closed 1/2” above opening

Back Pocket

Pocket bag bottom should be a folded edge to minimize bulk.

Overlocked both sides of pocket bag for lined AND unlined garments

053

Waistband

Overlocked both sides of pocket bag for lined AND unlined garmentsFold Over

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvvv

vvv

Faux Back Pocket

Bottom should be a folded edge to minimize bulk.

- (from BP manual) Dress pant styles or if requested in style collaboration.

Note: Self fabric facing inside pocket bag.

054

1 1/2”

1 1/2”

POCKET BAGSPant Pocket Bag Shape

Note: Pocket opening may have to be taped to prevent from stretching

055

SEAM ALLOWANCES

Shell

vvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvv vvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvv v

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vv vvvvvvvvvvvvvv

5/8”

vv vv vv vvvvvvv vv vv vvv vvvv

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

ALL MAJORSEAM ALLOWANCEPRESSED OPENWAISTBAND TO HEM

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

1”

3/8” Seam Allowance

- Alterable back rise seam 2NDL chain stitch - Seam-taped back rise for unlined pants only

Encore Garments

vvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvv vvv vvvvvvvvvvvv vv

3/4”

vv vv vv vvvvvvv vv vv vvv vvvv




1 1/4”


Alterable back rise seam 2NDL chain stitch

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvv

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvv v

Body construction seams are pressed open except when top stitched. We do no accept clipped seam allowances.

056

SEAMS

Pants and Skirts

Body construction seams are pressed open except when top stitched.We do not accept clipped seam allowances.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvv

1/2”

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv




3/4”


Alterable back rise seam 2NDL chain stitch

057

Side Seam Details

Do not trim back seam allowance. Tack seam allowance at pocket bag at front.

Serged for Lined AND Unlined garments

058

WAISTBAND CLOSURES

Fly Direction

The preferred �y direction for all washed casual bottoms is “Unisex”.Semi-constructed dress pants should have a “Women’s �y”.

UNISEX WOMENS FLY

059

WAIST FINISHES

Waistband Tab Extension

Heavy Fabrics

060

WaistbandsAll waist bands should be set with single needle lock stitch machinery. We do not accept waistbands set in one operation on folder equipment. Denim jeans with straight waistband may be set with a folder machine. Waistbands can be cut and fused in blocks, then trimmed and notched.

061

Waistband - Curtain Detail

1/4”3/8”

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXX X

X

X

X

X

X

XXXXXX

X X

X

X X X X

062

Miracle BandA “miracle band” is a straight waistband that has a non-roll woven elastic inserted from end to end with no other back interlining. The elastic is generally cut 1” smaller than the finished waistband size.

MIRACLE BAND CLEAN FINISHED MIRACLE BAND WITH CURTAINzzzzz zzz zzzz zzz zzzz zz

zzzz

zzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzz

z zzzz zzz zzzz zzz zzzz zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzzz

zzz

1. Join waistband to bodyand press seam allowance toward waistband

2. Insert elastic under waist join seam allowance(elastic is placed not sewn into waistband)

3. Fold waistband and stitch down curtain

4. Vertically stitchedthrough waistband and elastic at side seam positionto secure elastic

side

sea

m

waistband fold line

CB

SE

AM

063

No Waistband With Facing

WAIST WITH FACING AND LINING

WAIST WITHCURTAIN AND LINING

WAIST WITH CURTAINNO LINING

064

Waistband FinishContour and Straight

CONTOUR WAISTBANDWITH CURTAIN AND LINING

CONTOUR WAISTBANDWITH CURTAIN

STRAIGHT WAISTBANDWITH CURTAIN AND LINING

STRAIGHT WAISTBANDWITH CURTAIN

065

Waist Finish - No Waistband With BindingStabilizer tape needs to be added at the waist seam allowance to keep the waist from stretching out. The shell fabric should roll to the inside about 1/8”.

NO WAISTBAND WITH LINING NO WAISTBAND WITH BINDING AND LINING

NO WAISTBAND WITH BINDING

066

Tailored Waistband Construction - FrontSingle needle lockstitch right fly facing to front 1 1/8” from edge. Back tack at end. Metal bars centered on waistband. Quantity of Hooks and Bars will vary by waistband width.

Note: See VCS page for each style’s closure. The hook & bar and button placement may be different than above.

067

Waist FinishesWaistband Tab ExtensionHeavy Fabrics

Seam Tab Extension>>seam bust

Inside view

Fold Tab Extension>>to avoid thickness in corners

>>improve finished look of tab extension corners

068

Waist FinishesGrosgrain Ribbon Waist ConstructionUnlined Skirt Styles- Set the ribbon to top of waist at inside- Turn ribbon to outside- Stitch down ribbon at outside- Ribbon will cover the seam allowance of waist top edge

069

NATURAL WAISTLINE

Straight Waistbands

A waistband that is straight and the bottom edge falls at the natural waist point. Band is folded or seamed at top edge. The inside seam will not be turned into the waistband, but will hang into the pant or skirt, forming a 3/8” curtain, clean finished with a DTM bind-ing of bias cut lining. The waistband should be seamed at the center back, for alterations.

Contour Waist

A waist that is shaped and falls lower than the natural waistline is a contour band. It is seamed at the top to achieve the curved shape. It will follow all rules for seaming, extensions, and fasteners, but may need a different type of interlining than the straight band. Tape may be needed to control stretch along the top edge of the band.

NATURAL WAISTLINE

Hollywood Waist

A waistline that extends above the natural waist and is finished with a facing is consid-ered a “hollywood” waist. The facing usually has to be reinforced with a woven tape to keep it from stretching out in sewing and wearing.

Yoke

A decorative insert along the waist and extend-ing below the natural waistline is called a yoke. The yoke is not stitched down to the facing although they are often the same shape. The seam of the yoke should be pressed up and the seam of the lining should be pressed down to reduce bulk. Tack facing to yoke seam at long seams and darts.

070

Waistband ConstructionContour One PieceWaistband is shaped and falls below the natural waistline.Contour SplitSide Seams - Generally used for bottoms without belt loops or no CB belt loop.Center Back - Generally used for bottoms with CB belt loop.

Clean Finish Bound Curtain Lining Lining Exception (for scratchy/wool)

071

Straight One PieceWaistband is straight and bottom edge generally falls at the natural waist.It can be used for super low rise bottoms and will be specifically called out instyle collaboration.Inside facing can be clean finished, have bound, curtain or lining attached.BP & TBD require a seam at the top edge of the band, unless band is less than5/8” in height.

Clean Finish Bound Curtain Lining Lining Exception (for scratchy/wool)

072

Waist FinishesGrosgrain Ribbon Waist ConstructionUnlined Skirt StylesSet the ribbon to top of waist at inside.Turn ribbon to outside.Stitch down ribbon at outside.Ribbon will cover the seam allowance of waist top edge.

Inside View Outside View

073

Front Fly

CF hook and bar requires anchor button.

Tab extension with hook and bar requires anchor button.

Tab extension with button closure requires anchor button.

CF button closure, no anchor button required

ANCHOR BUTTON

ANCHOR BUTTON

ANCHOR BUTTON CF

CF

CF

CF

074

WAISTBAND

FLY SIDE SEAM

V V

VV

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

aa

a a a a a a a a a a a a a

V V

V V

HORIZONTAL TACK

VERTICAL TACK

1” BETWEEN BARTACKS

Fly Profile Stitching Fly Bartack Placement Detail

075

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XX

X

X

X

X

X XX XXXX

X X X

XXX

X

uu

U

ZIPPER CONSTRUCTIONInvisible zipper

YKK

UU

Coil one sided covered zipper

Side Seam or CB

Note: For heavy fabrics if invisible zipper not workable.

UU

3/16”

1/4”

Invisible zipper with Extension

Invisible Zipper Without Extension

Zipper view from back

Zipper view from back

1/4”

076

Bead and Sequin Sewing Specifications- Tie off on every sixth bead or sequin.

077

4 1/2”1 1/4”Hole Spacing

Point Extension

1 1/4”3”

Diagram 3

BeltBelt lengths are measured as Diagram 1 and 2.Spacing of holes and point extension as Diagram 3, unless otherwise requested in spec pack.Back belt construction as Diagram 4.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

3”Diagram 4

Thread Chainstitch

078

BELTLOOPS

Belt loops to be formed as a tube with edge stitch on either side.

Set into waistband seam:Woven: Tack belt loop down at 1/4” from waistband seamDenim: Bartack on outside

If there is a belt loop at CB, back tack with SN lock stitch instead of bartack.

1/4” - 3/8”1/4” - 3/8”

Woven Beltloop

Denim Beltloop

Woven Denim

Bartack beltloop to shell fabric

079

BUTTON POSITION

Buttonholes on sleeve should be non-functional, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

RIGHTFRONTEDGE

LEFTFRONT

EDGE

Roll line break at center of 1st button

2 1/2”

080

▪

▪▪▫

▪▪▫

▪

▪

▪

▪▫

▫▪▪

BUTTON SET

Button

Machine Set Button

NPG requires Lock Stitch button sew Type #304

Button Sew Thread (POV)Use Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specified on VCS4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per hole)

Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open

Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Hand Set Button

Must be set with double strand thread Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open

Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Button Sew ThreadUse Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specificed 4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per

Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Knotting must be secured and hidden

2 Hole

4 Hole

081

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLE STANDARDS

Button Setting Method

We prefer buttons to be set with lock stitch machines and finely finished on underside. If only chain stitch machines are available, please be sure the cycle is correct so that the last stroke locks the chain on the inside of the garment.We do not set buttons with an “X” stitch. We make two horizontal stitches on a lock-stitch machine.

Shanks (Wrapping)

The length of the thread shank should be determined by the thickness of the fabric. The button should hold the garment closed without distort-ing the buttonhole.Buttons with shanks should not be wrapped.

Thread

Match the thread color to the button unless otherwise stated in the spec pack. Use Perma Cored or equivalent Tex 40 button sewing thread for buttons. Do not use thread designed for single needle or over lock machines.Note: For inside buttons and hook & bar, fuse fabric to add strength ifneeded.

082

▪

▪▪

▪

▪

▪

FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

Straight

Keyhole

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION

Buttonhole Type

Must be Lock Stitch Type #304

Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons

Buttonhole Thread

Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified

Button Thread Color

Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified

083

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION (cont’d)

▪▪▪

Quality Points (Women’s only)

Buttons set on wearers left Buttons set on center line unless otherwise specified on VCSMark button position after making button holes

084

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvv

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

VV

VVV

V

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

VV

VVV

V VV

VVV

V1/16” apart

BUTTONHOLES

The buttonhole should be clean. Loose or fraying threads are not acceptable. Buttonhole should not stretch out the fabric or cause damage to the weave.

Loosely woven fabrics, refer to Number 3.

Leather and suede garments must have bound buttonhole, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

1. Keyhole Buttonholes

2. Bound Buttonhole

3. For Loosely Woven Fabric - edge stitch is added to prevent fraying

Note: Buttonholes on sleeve should be non-functional, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

085

FABRIC HANDLING

Fabric InspectionNPG requires The 4-Point System and Fabric Sampling Plan.Refer to the Fabric Inspection Guidelines link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.

Flaws/DefectsProduction Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.▪ Please contact NPG Production Developer ▪ Production Planner may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision▫ Minimum of 1 yard full width

Spreading and CuttingNPG does not accept Drill Holes.Refer to the Process Inspection link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.

Shading

Fabric must be shade sorted.All cut parts must be identified with an appropriate numbering system.▪ If adhesive stickers, paper tags or chalk is used for numbering cut parts, they must be

removed before pressing If there are Shading issues:▪ Please contact NPG Product Developer ▪ Product developer may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision▫ Minimum of 1/4 yard full width

Production Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.Note: Follow Visual Construction Sheet (VCS) for style specific directions

Cut DirectionNapped fabrics: 1 way, nap upNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way

Cut Direction - KidsNapped fabrics: Nap down unless otherwise speci�ed in teck packNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way

086

GRAIN LINES

For all solid fabrications, body, sleeve and side panels are cut on straight of grain. Markers should be laid with all pieces of a single garment cut in same direction. Collar, under collar, collar stand, inner cuffs and outer cuffs are cut on cross of grain. These standards should be followed for all woven blouses, unless otherwise stated on the VCS for style specific directions.

087

GRAINLINES

For all 2way cut solid fabrications, pant legs are cut on straight of grain. Waistband at CF is cut on cross of grain. Note: These standards should be followed for all pants unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

For all 2way cut solid fabrications, Skirt is cut on straight of grain. Waistband at CF and CB are cut on cross of grain.

Note: These Standards should be followed for all skirts unless otherwise stated on the VCS

088

GRAIN LINES

Note: Any exceptions to these standards will be listed on the VCS page.

- For all 2 way cut solid fabrications, body, sleeve, lapel and upper collar are cut on straight of grain. - Under collars are cut on bias.- Markers should be laid with all pieces of a single garment cut in same direction.

089

KNIT DIRECTION

For all solid fabrications, body, sleeve and inside panels are cut on straight of grain.These standards should be followed for all knit tops, unless otherwise stated on the VCS for style specific directions.

090

HANGER LOOPS

Hanger loop requirements are:1. Hanger loops should be clear elastic or satin as specified in BOM. No twill tape permitted.

2. Use hanger loops to maintain good hanger appeal. Garment on hanger should appear as close to the flat sketch as possible. The garment silhouette should be clearly visible when the garment is hung. Examples: halters, strapless styles, off the shoulder styles.

3. TD to advise suggested placement and measurement for hanger loops.

4. Use hanger loops for garments that may fall off the hanger.

091

HARDWARE ATTACHMENT

For Snaps( 4-Part and Prong), Rivets, and Jeans Buttons

▪▪▪▪▪

▪

▪

▪▪

C

092

HEMSRaw edge▪

2N Bottom Cover▪ Finish with 2N cover bottom▪ Cover edge of hem completely▪ Do not set wavy or with exposed hem▪ Roping or tunneling is not acceptable.

Clean Finish with Topstitch▪

Lock for woven products and SN/Chain for knit products.

▪ Boy’s Dress Shirts have 3/16” margin.

Blind Hem▪ 3 Thread Overlock edge, turn under

and hem with blind hemmer. Caution that hem stitching does not show to outside of garment.

Overlock with Topstitch▪ 3 thread overlock bottom edge, turn,

093

PRESSING

▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification ▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation andpresses

▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:

▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable▫ Over pressing not acceptable▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable


094

PRESSING - DARTS

We expect that all body seams, darts and small parts be under pressed. Avoid over pressing.A straight seam can be pressed on a flat board. If it has a curve, it should be pressed on a curved board so that the silhouette is maintained. Darts should be pressed with the end over the curve of a board to prevent a bubble. Press a dart from the widest part (usually the waist) towards the end

095

PRESSING

Dress Bottoms (Usually non-washed fabrications)

We expect that all body seams, darts and small parts will be under pressed. Avoid over pressing.

a shaped board for pressing.

Darts should be pressed with the end over the shaped board to prevent bubbles. Press a dart from the widest part (usually the waist) towards the end.

Pressing

Casual Bottoms (Usually washed fabrications)

We expect a non-pressed “out of the dryer look”.

Seams and parts should have minimal touch up pressing.

All finishing and pressing will be reviewed during fit process and should be finalized beforeproduction starts.

Note: Please refer to style information for specific finishing details.

096

LEG CREASE

FLAT Flat

CROTCHPOINT

CROTCHPOINT

PLEAT (All) BACK (All)

097

Stitch Per Inch (SPI)SPI for Join seams: 11 1SPI for Understitching: 9 1SPI for Leather: 8 1SPI for Denim Join seams: 9 1SPI for Denim Topstitching: 7 1Note: See VCS page for style specific details regarding novelty and decorative topstitching.

++

+++

098

We follow the Stitch Terminology as recongized by International Organization for Standardization.

Please reference below:

https://www.iso.org/standard/10932.html

http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/glossary/stitch-terminology-glossary/

099

Thread Loop

1. All thread loops should be thread chainstitch in a C shape as diagram below, unless otherwise specified.

Thread Chainstitch

100

HemsUnlined Garments1/8” gauge Bottom Coverstitch Type #406 ISO49150Width indicated is to 2nd needle threadTurn tolerance +0 / -1/16”

5/8”

3/4” 1 1/4”

5/8” Sleeve Opening 1 1/4” Bottom Opening3/4” Bottom Opening

Sleeve Top Dress and Skirt

101

Lined Garment Hem

Coverstitch▪ 1/8” gauge Bottom Coverstitch Type #406 ▪ Width indicated is to 2nd needle thread▪ Hem width tolerance ±1/8”▪ Stitch through hems must have back tack of 3 stitches tolerance ±1

Seam Type SSI-1/8

Outside Inside

3/4”3/4” Turn & Bottom Cover

Single Needle Chain Stitch Type # 401

Top stitch hem▪ Hem width 3/4” tolerance +/- 1/8”

Seam Type SSI-1

Outside Inside

3/4”

3/4” Top/Bottom Opening

Turn & Stitch3/4”

Invisible hem▪ Hem width 1/2” tolerance +/- 1/8”

Outside Inside

1/2”

Seam Type SSa

Stitch turn (bagged lining)

Note:

102

Hem with Side Slits

When called out in the spec pack,

seam with 1/2” wide twill tape or self fabric tape.

Back Front

Finish inside with 1/2” wide twill tape

Quality Points

Hems▪ Fabric edge must be covered evenly.▪ Raw edge past the outside needle is unacceptable.▪ Roping hem is not acceptable.

103

SIDE SEAMS-KNITS

▪ Form side seam with 2 needle 4 thread overedge.▪ Topstitch as called out in the spec pack.

BackFront

Face Side

BackFront

Inside

SLEEVE AND BOTTOM HEMS

Single Needle Chain Double Needle Bottom Cover stitch

Rib Trim

Face Side

Inside

Face Side

Inside

Face Side

Inside

104

▪

▪▪

▪

▪

Straight

Keyhole

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION

Buttonhole Type

Must be Lock Stitch Type #304

Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons

Buttonhole Thread

Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified

Button Thread Color

Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density

Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.

For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density


ChunkyGauge

For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density


For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density


ChunkyGauge

Button Hole Standard

Fine Gauge Chunky Gauge

105

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION (cont’d)

▪▪▪

Quality Points (Women’s only)

Buttons set on wearers left Buttons set on center line unless otherwise specified on VCSMark button position after making button holes

▪

FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified

106

STANDARD INTERLINING

VENDOR ART# PLACEMENT FABRICATIONSPermess #026.048 Front and Small Parts Most Fabrications, stretch and non stretchPermess #097.512 Waist Band Most Fabrications, stretch and non stretchVilene #PE 9924 Small Parts New stretch wool (SP ‘07)Vilene #ME 9923 Waist Band New Stretch Wool (SP’07)DHJ #2556 All Garment Parts Garment Washed Denim like fabrics

Note:: If standard does not work for certain fabrications or styling, we expect vendor will make the necessary adjustments and record changes on sample checklist for Production Technical Designer. Production Technical Designer will comment on interlining only if corrections have to be made.

107

Seam Construction

For sheer or light weight fabric shirts

Seam Finish Location

French SeamShoulderSide SeamSleeve Seam

5 thread safety stitch Sleeve Seam3 thread overedge 504 or 5 thread safety stitch Princess Seams

For mid to heavy weight fabrics, stretch poplin, denim, shirts, and denim Jackets.

Seam Finish Location

4 thread mock safety or 5 thread safety stitch

ShoulderSide SeamSleeve SeamArmhole SeamPrincess Seams

108

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