northern india: bharatpur, corbett & nainital 21 nov-6 dec

Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist Tour Report

Northern India:Bharatpur, Corbett & Nainital 21 Nov-6 Dec 2008

Brown Hawk Owl fixes our Nov 2008 A totally unexpected highlight of our 2008 tour was this

group with its stare! • Leopard at Corbett National Park

Male Kalij Pheasant struts his stuff at Corbett The highly adapted Gharial has a thin snout

specially designed for catching fish

Great Thick-knees are widespread along riverbanks Dapper Indian Skimmers really come to life in flightin the region, but are not always this easy to see

Tour Report • Northern India, 21 Nov-6 Dec 2008

2 • © Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist www.limosaholidays.co.uk

They may be common, but no-one tires of seeing A total of four Common Hawk Cuckoos were seen,the smart Brahminy Starling. at Bharatpur and Corbett

Tall as a man, Sarus Cranes stand out in India’s A trio of Indian Flying Foxes at their daytime roost fields and marshes

The enigmatic Hodgson's Bushchat has become A flight of Bar-headed Geese passes overhead ata regular feature of Corbett's grasslands in recent years Bharatpur© Peter Kennerley.• For a more extensive selection of photos taken on this tour please visit our Gallery feature at www.limosaholidays.co.uk

Tour Leader: Peter Kennerley & local guides

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TRIP DIARY

Days 1- 2 Friday 21st/Saturday 22nd November 2008 Depart London on a British Airways flight to Delhi. After ourearly morning arrival in Delhi, we quickly cleared immigration and collected our bags before meeting with our local guide,Bharat. Then it was off on the four-hour drive to Bharatpur. Thankfully, the roads were fairly quiet at this time in themorning and we reached our destination just as the first rays of the morning sun were illuminating the walls of the old fort. Afew hours sleep was the pressing priority for most and, while there were Red-wattled Lapwings, Red-vented Bulbuls andBrown Rockchats to view around the hotel, these went largely ignored.

By early afternoon - and feeling reinvigorated - we set off to explore the nearby Keoladeo NP, often just known asBharatpur. With so many new and exciting birds on offer, we opted to walk the bunds by the tank behind the Shanti Kutia,which gave us a measured introduction to the delights that were to follow. Ducks, storks, herons, darters and cormorantsseemed to be everywhere, White-throated Kingfishers perched prominently and the variety of raptors was outstanding. Theadjacent woodlands held masses of squawking Rose-ringed Parakeets, our first Indian Grey Hornbills and small manageablenumbers of the commoner resident species such as Coppersmith Barbet, Black-rumped Flameback, Rufous Treepie, BlackDrongo, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes, Oriental Magpie-robins and Indian Robins. With them were the commonerwinter visitors, most prominent of which were Siberian Chiffchaffs, Hume's Leaf Warblers and Red-breasted Flycatchers.But the unexpected highlight of the afternoon was a young Black Bittern, which skulked in bushes fringing a small pool buteventually sat where we could all see it. All too soon the sun was setting and we returned to our hotel, ready for an earlynight and the challenges of the next day.

Day 3 Sunday November 23rd 2008 Rather than going directly into Keoladeo, we made a short diversion into a nearbynursery where a Brown Hawk Owl was in residence. Very quickly our guides tracked down this owl to its daytime roost; thefirst of eight species of owl we were to see well in daylight during this tour. Shortly after entering the National Park, wemade the short detour to the temple, which is always a good bet for wintering forest birds. Very quickly, an Indian JungleNightjar was spotted at its roost in a tall palm, while a couple of male Red-breasted Flycatchers were stunning in the earlymorning light. At the temple, we were taken to see a wintering Orange-headed Thrush which glowed amongst the leaf litter,then a small and nondescript flycatcher popped into view, which could only be a young Ultramarine - a scarce winter visitorto the park. Nearby Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings fed on berried bushes, an Oriental Honey Buzzard flew low overheadand a nice Bluethroat foraged by the edged of a drained pool.

The main event of the day was the rickshaw ride along the main access road. With cars banned, these rickshaws provide themost popular means of getting to the heart of the park. Along the way we made stops to watch Indian Scops Owls at theirdaytime roost, then by the nest of a Dusky Horned Owl where one bird sat on the nest while the other gazed on nearby.These really are seriously large owls, and it was nice to see them so well. The monsoon rains earlier in the year had beengood, in fact the first good rains for four years and all the tanks were brimming with water so waterbirds were everywherethis year. Large and very active nesting colonies of Painted Storks, Black-headed Ibises, Little and Indian Cormorants,Darters, Black-crowned Night Herons, Great Egrets and more were just by the roadside, many still with small downy youngwhile others had young almost ready to fledge. The tanks themselves held dozens of Grey and Purple Herons, Great,Intermediate and Little Egrets and Indian Pond Herons. A consequence of the lack of rains was that the tanks had anextensive growth of tall but long-dead vegetation that hid many of the birds. So the first great whoosh of wings saw a hugeflock of ducks, mostly wintering Gadwall, Teal and Pintail, with a sprinkling of Garganey, Shoveler and Ferruginous Ducks,take to the air as a Marsh Harrier approached. But as the danger passed, they dropped back in and vanished. By climbing tothe top of the watchtower, we got a completely different perspective on this vast reserve. Here the apparently densevegetation was nothing more than a veneer of widely scattered scrub. From this vantage point, Greylag and Bar-headedGeese were obvious, as were flocks of Ruddy Shelduck, Glossy Ibis, Lesser Whistling-ducks, Cotton Pygmy-geese, CombDucks, Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas. In the distance, our only Steppe Eagle wasperched, while below us a Clamorous Reed Warbler showed well. After lunch, our guides provided us with yet anther IndianScops Owl and Indian Jungle Nightjar, while a Hoopoe fed on the lawn of the temple and a Black Redstart foraged quietlynearby. But a search for Large-tailed Nightjar drew a blank. At the end of this exciting day, we began to appreciate just whata wonderful place Keoladeo NP is and we looked forward to returning tomorrow.

Day 4 Monday November 24th 2008 We began the day with a successful search for a roosting Large-tailed Nightjar,which merged well within the leaf litter, while nearby a young Bonelli's Eagle showed well in a roadside bush. We spent therest of the morning exploring the drier areas of the park, which held a very different selection of birds to those that prefer theflooded tanks. Very quickly, a pair of Black-winged Kites put on a sterling display low over our heads. Then came the callof Sirkeer Malkoha. These are always tricky so it was pleasing that this bird sat up and showed so well, enabling everyone toenjoy prolonged 'scope views. There then followed a procession of exciting birds including White-eyed Buzzard, Woolly-necked Stork, a party of Indian Silverbills, Pallid Harrier, flocks of Yellow-footed Green Pigeons, several SiberianStonechats and Pied Bushchats, a showy Isabelline Shrike, several Sarus Cranes including a pair with their well-grownyoungster, Black-necked Stork, Ashy Prinia, Blyth's Reed Warbler, a flock of Chestnut-shouldered Petronias, a couple ofRed-headed Vultures, a pair of Indian Spotted Eagles and a pair of Crested Serpent Eagles. And then you have the Skittering



Frogs that literally ran across the surface of the water, the scattered groups of Nilgai, Sambar and Chital plus several GoldenJackals. Add to this the waterbird spectacle of the previous day and you have an unbeatable combination.

In the late afternoon, we headed back into Bharatpur in search of Greater Painted-snipe. They frequent a small stream whichis really just an open sewer, but which is alive with birds. No sooner had we arrived than the first painted-snipe was spotted,to be followed by a further eight including some fine females. With them was a broad collection of waders including Wood,Green, Common and Marsh Sandpipers, Spotted and Common Redshanks, Greenshank, Temminck's Stints and Black-winged Stilts. Nearby, Citrine, White and White-browed Wagtails foraged and Pied Kingfishers flew overhead. This was awonderful site; let's hope that such places remain for many years into the future.

Day 5 Tuesday November 25th 2008 An early morning departure to Agra, pausing briefly en-route for our first BlackIbis and an opportunistic encounter with a couple of roosting Spotted Owlets. Then it was the Taj Mahal, always best takenwhen softened by the shadows of the early morning light. Everything that can be written about this monument has alreadybeen said and I'm not able to better this. The nearby Jamuna River did hold our attention for ten minutes and produced ourfirst River Lapwings and the only Great Black-headed Gull of the tour.

From Agra we headed off to the Chambal Safari Lodge, 90 minutes distant. After a quick lunch we were shown BrownHawk and Indian Scops Owls at their daytime roosts, followed by a really interesting walk through the nearby fields whichwere jam packed with birds. Standing crops of mustard held a flock of Red-headed Buntings while already cleared fieldswere full of starlings and mynas, including some nice Rosy Starlings. Cattle Egrets followed the plough and Indian Rollerssnatched disturbed insects, where the fields were worked as they have been for hundreds of years. As dusk fell, we watcheda family of Common Palm Civets stretch and play before starting their night-time excursions.

Day 6 Wednesday November 26th 2008 Our expectations for today had been very high and we were not to bedisappointed. Just 40 minutes from our lodge lay the Chambal River sanctuary, 400 km of pristine river protected as asanctuary for Gangetic River Dolphins but a saviour to all those species that depend upon this increasingly rare andfragmented habitat. We could only scratch the surface in our morning excursion, but as soon as we entered the sanctuary, weentered a world where people were no longer dominant. The deep eroded ravines, a unique habitat in their own right, quicklygave us a Common Hawk-cuckoo followed by a showy Long-billed Pipit. As we waited to board our boat, we found severalDesert Wheatears on the broad riverbanks, while scanning through a scattering of larks revealed several Short-toed, a singleSand and a couple of Crested. If only we had more time. But the main event beckoned and as we boarded, Black-belliedTern, Osprey and a flock of Indian Skimmers flew past. The next three hours were some of the very best of the entire tour.Flocks of Bar-headed Geese, nine Indian Skimmers that we could almost touch, Black-bellied and Indian River Terns, a pairof Bonelli's Eagles at their nest, a couple of Woolly-necked Storks, several large Muggers and Gharials basking in theshallows, the only Variable Wheatear of the tour and, finally, those three river dolphins which came up so close to our boat,time and time again.

All too soon we had to leave this paradise and after a quick bite of lunch, set out on the long journey to Corbett. With the railtrack being under repair, we had no choice but to drive, breaking the journey near the Ganges. Even this first leg took ninehours, broken only to watch a melee of duck by the Jamuna near Mathura, which included several nice Ferruginous and amass of Indian Spot-bills. We were all greatly relieved to finally reach the palatial surroundings of Unchagaon Fort aftersuch a long journey. Let's hope the railway is operational next year.

Day 7 Thursday November 27th 2008 A fruiting fig at the Fort was full of Yellow-footed Green Pigeons and IndianGrey Hornbills, but soon we had to continue on to Corbett. After crossing the Ganges, the sacred river of the Hindus andhome to innumerable cremations, the road improved considerably - becoming dual carriageway - and our pace really pickedup. But if there is one thing you can predict about India is its unpredictability and all too soon we were stuck in anotherinterminable traffic jam and going nowhere. But I should not underestimate the abilities of our driver and, by a bit of deftwheelwork that involved going up a couple of footpaths and over-excessive use of his horn, he got us through. After this wereached our hotel in time for a lateish lunch.

As time was pressing, we opted to try for an Ibisbill, which had been reported recently on the Kosi River not far from wherewe were staying. In recent years, Ibisbills have been absent from their usual wintering haunts along the Kosi, so we were notvery optimistic that we would find this individual. After all it is a large river which many large boulders that an Ibisbill canhide behind. Almost as soon as we started to search, however, a distant Ibisbill was seen in flight, calling several times as itheaded in our direction. After landing 500m from us, we walked a bit closer, but it was disturbed a couple of times and flewagain, thankfully towards us and landed just 50m from where we were standing, giving us outstanding looks at this scarcevisitor from the Tibetan Plateau. A great way to finish a travel day.

Day 8 Friday November 28th 2008 We spent the morning birding the roadside from our hotel towards Kumeria and ittook no less than three hours to cover this short distance. New and multi-hued birds were everywhere, many withconfusingly long and hyphenated names. Scarlet and Long-tailed Minivets, Bar-winged Flycatchershrike, Grey Bushchat(but looking like a miniature shrike), Grey-breasted Prinia, Lineated Barbet, Himalayan Flameback, Grey-capped Pygmy



Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails, confusingly grey Great Tits, hundreds ofHimalayan and Red-vented Bulbuls, Black-chinned Babbler, Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Orange-bellied Leafbird and many more. Of interest were a couple of AsianElephants slowly munching their way through a bamboo stand just 30m from where we stood, on a busy road by a village.The villagers didn't seem too perplexed and for the children on their way to school, it was a minor diversion, something tobreak up another routine day, but nothing that unusual and, in fact, we were of more interest to them than the elephants.Next came a huge Tawny Fish Owl peering down at us from its daytime roost. We were extremely fortunate that thisindividual was so cooperative as, although Corbett is undoubtedly the best place on the planet to see this magnificent owl, itis by no means guaranteed and a passing troupe of langurs could easily send it into the deeper recesses of the forest.

After reaching the Kosi River we paused to enjoy the multitude of birds that make the river their home. Plumbeous andWhite-capped Water Redstarts, Brown Dipper, Common, Crested and Pied Kingfishers and Grey and White-browedWagtails. After much searching we eventually located a diminutive Little Forktail on the far riverbank, but of its longer-tailed spotted cousin, only Bharat was fortunate to be in the right place before it vanished into the undergrowth, not to re-appear. A nearby flock brought us our first Black-crested and Ashy Bulbuls, Crimson Sunbirds and Whistler's Warblersamongst the throngs of Himalayan Bulbuls.

Day 9 Saturday November 29th 2008 If yesterday had been the starter, today was to be the main course as we headedinto Corbett NP and Dhikala Forest Rest House, which was to be our home for the next two nights. We began the day as wehad yesterday, birding the roadside towards the Dhamgari Gate, but once through the gate, we entered a different world, onewhere the sound of the honking horn became a distant memory. Our first flock was a busy one with several Red-billedLieothrix, Black-lored Tits and a Lemon-rumped Warbler adding to the excitement. Next came a Nepal Wren-babblersinging by the roadside. Fortunately it was a responsive individual and was soon hopping about in the low scrub by the trackbefore settling down in open scrub where it was easily viewed. New to science in 1991 and only recently discovered inCorbett, seeing this little gem had been one of the main targets of this tour. As we watched, news filtered through of a showyLeopard by the roadside so we set off in hot pursuit, pausing only to watch our first (very showy) Kalij Pheasants crossingthe road and three Asian Elephants. Upon reaching said location we had no trouble finding this magnificent cat sprawled outalong a limb 15m above the ground and giving itself a good licking; its piercing blue eyes penetrating deep into the soul ofthose who stared back. Eventually it got up and nonchalantly strolled to the next branch. We could not have asked for betterviews. Leopards in Asia are never easy and particularly so in Corbett which has a high concentration of Tigers, which tendto restrict the numbers of other carnivores in their territories by killing them. So we considered ourselves to be exceptionallyfortunate, as even seeing a Tiger in Corbett is challenging.

After settling into our rooms at Dhikala we were soon sidetracked by an Asian Barred Owlet on a post by our rooms,followed by a pair of Blue-throated Bee-eaters in an adjacent tree. The finale to the day was the afternoon excursion into theDhikala grasslands by Gypsy in search of one of Asia's rarest birds; Hodgson's Bushchat. We wondered would they havearrived so early in the season? Would there be one close to the track - there are endless grasslands available to them? Ourguide had confidence, but we set out by checking each Stonechat we found. Eventually though we took the word of ourguide and soon we stopped and he pointed out a female, then 200m later a male, then another. Was it really so easy? Theselarge bush chats are winter visitors to the grasslands fringing the foothills of the Himalayas from the breeding grounds inwestern Mongolia. Although only recently discovered wintering here, are they really expanding their range into Corbett orhave they just been overlooked here in the past? This species is considered to be Vulnerable by Birdlife International, withan estimated population somewhere between 2,500 and 9,999 individuals. However, this estimate seems optimistic, as theestimated number wintering in Nepal in 1998 was 110 individuals, which is home to most of the known wintering sites.Numbers wintering in India may not exceed 100 birds. Seeing them raises many questions, to which there are no answers.As we watched the bushchats, a stunning male Pied Harrier drifted past, diminutive Collared Falconets and Blue-throatedBee-eaters hawked from bare snags and a Pallas's Fish Eagle called in the distance near its huge nest.

Day 10 Sunday November 30th 2008 The morning began with a jeep safari into the Dhikala grasslands and woodlands.Initially the early morning mist hampered viewing but as the sun breached the surrounding hills the mist gradually burnedoff as the temperatures lifted. Birding from the gypsys along the forest edge we encountered several large bird parties slowlymaking their way through the forest. The first held good numbers of Large and Common Woodshrikes intent on makinginroads into the hairy caterpillar population. With them were both Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Long-tailed and Scarlet Minivets, Rufous Treepies, Yellow-bellied Fantails, Black-crested Bulbuls and many others. As the grassdried, so more birds appeared with both Zitting and Bright-capped Cisticolas showing well, a male Crested Bunting poppedinto view, several Long-tailed Shrikes appeared and Richard's and Rosy Pipits flew overhead calling. Hodgson's Bushchatswere even showier than the previous day, perching up close to the track and at one point landing in the track. Nearby, Piedand Hen Harriers quartered the grasslands.

In the afternoon, Joy and Sheila opted for the elephant ride while the rest of us went in search of yet more birds. By slowlydriving along the track fringing the Ramganga River towards the Kinanauli FRH we encountered several exciting speciesincluding Jungle Owlet, yet more Kalij Pheasants and a couple of Red Junglefowl, a Lesser Fish Eagle perch in a tree by theriver, a fine male Great Slaty Woodpecker in the Kinanauli FRH compound and a flock of c. 40 Pin-tailed Green Pigeons



feeding in a fruiting fig until a Changeable Hawk-eagle went into full frontal attack mode and the tree exploded with greenpigeons going in all directions. As the sun slowly sank towards the horizon we returned to the grasslands where the deer andlangurs were giving their Tiger alarm calls. Although we were close, nothing moved. Distracted by the calls of BlackFrancolin, we were finally rewarded when one burst into view and started to call from the track close to our jeep. At suchclose range, Black Francolins are really most attractive.

Day 11 Monday December 1st 2008 This year a female Tiger with three large cubs had taken up residence near theDhikala FRH and they were being seen regularly. As there had been no Tiger sightings the previous day, our guides feltconfident that they would become activity this morning as it was likely they would have been hunting the previous night. Soon our last morning we put in some time looking for them and we were not to be disappointed. After following various alarmcalls from the barking deer, some managed to glimpse the back of the female as she walked into the distance. At least wenow knew were to look and guided by the alarms of the Peacocks we opted to sit and wait by a likely looking section of thetrack. As we waited, a Large Cuckooshrike flew over calling and a Red-headed Vulture landed on a branch that snappedunder its weight, sending it tumbling groundwards. After what seemed like hours but wasn't more than 20 minutes, one ofthe large cubs (i.e. bigger than Leopard-sized!) emerged onto the track and showed its hind quarters off very nicely as itwandered along the track with the complete indifference to humans which Tigers always show, before looking over itsshoulder and turning into deep cover. A few minutes later, a second cub emerged but on seeing its audience, it gave us aquick snarl and vanished back into the undergrowth. So our luck had been outstanding. To see both Tiger and Leopard atCorbett in just 48 hours is more than lucky, it's verging on divine intervention. As for Mike, he got his Tiger and looked likethe cat who got the cream.

The drive back to the land of the honking horn provided a few nice surprises; Jungle Owlet and Lesser Fish Eagle for thosewho missed them yesterday, and Brown Fish Owl, three Tawny Fish Owls and Brown Crake for all. Lunch at the TigerCamp produced a nice roosting Indian Scops Owl, while a return visit to the Kosi River yielded a distant Wallcreeper in thetime it took Joy to raise her bins to find it! Then it was on to Naini Tal and the final leg of our adventure. The journey wasshort and uneventful, although a brief stop by a likely looking stream brought us a stunning Spotted Forktail.

Day 12 Tuesday December 2nd 2008 We spent the entire day birding along the quiet Sat Tal road that leads down to atranquil tree-fringed lake. Being at a much higher elevation, many of the birds we encountered here were new for us,although some familiar favourites including Grey-hooded Warblers and Yellow-bellied Fantails remained. An unfamiliar'takking' call quickly revealed itself to belong to a Dusky Warbler, quite a scarce visitor to these parts. The fields that areoften so good for wintering birds were largely bare of birds as the altitudinal migrants had yet to appear, although Long-tailed Shrikes and Grey Bushchats remained conspicuous. Nearby, a pair of Yellow-breasted Greenfinches sat quietly in aroadside tree while nearby, a couple of White-capped Buntings furtively searched for seeds in the shade of overhangingbanking, while a couple of Russet Sparrows called from an overhead wire.

As we entered the woodlands, bird flocks returned and it was soon clear that their composition here was quite different tothose we'd seen earlier. Delightfully cute Black-throated Tits soon became one of the most numerous species, often joined bysmaller numbers of Green-backed and Black-lored Tits, Oriental White-eyes and numerous Phylloscopus warblers. A smallparty of Red-billed Blue Magpies cavorted through the trees then dropped down to drink as a large party of White-throatedLaughingthrushes called noisily as they bounced through the leaf litter. A walk around the lake gave good views of theflocks of Black Bulbuls, a couple of Grey Treepies, several Olive-backed Pipits and Blue Whistling Thrushes, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher and a gorgeous male Rufous-bellied Niltava.

Much of the afternoon was spent along the quiet stream that drains from the lake. Here we watched our first HimalayanBluetails, the male being an absolute stunner, while the females appeared inseparable from their Red-flanked cousins - eventheir calls sounded identical. The mosaic of scrub and clearings along the trail was home to several Slaty-blue Flycatchers, abriefly seen Grey-sided Bush Warbler and a female Little Pied Flycatcher. Making our way back up the road, there were stilla few surprises in store, a pair of Chestnut-bellied Rock-thrushes in a roadside bush, the first of many Rufous Sibias, severalStreaked Laughingthrushes and good looks at a Buff-barred Warbler.

Day 13 Wednesday December 3rd 2008 Again we dropped below Naini Tal to spend the morning in the delightfulMongoli Valley. A brief stop along the Kaladhungi Road gave us our second Little Forktail of the tour but not a sniff of theprevious nights' Spotted Forktail. The Mongoli Valley is even quieter than the Sat Tal road and the only form of transport ison the back of a mule. Otherwise here you walk. Working our way slowly along the broad trail through dense oak andrhododendron forest, birds seemed to be everywhere - this was a much busier place than Sat Tal. Mixed flocks movedthrough, often at eye level which revealed numerous Phylloscopus warblers and enabled everyone to finally catch up withLemon-rumped and Whistler's Warblers, as well as drool over their first Ashy-throated Warblers. Soon our first Brown-fronted Woodpeckers appeared with them and Rufous Sibias became numerous. Movements in the undergrowth proved tobe a party of laughingthrushes. Most were Streaked, but four Chestnut-crowned showed nicely, as did a couple of Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers. Next came a pair of Greater Yellownapes quietly working on a fallen trunk, while below themdozens of White-throated Laughingthrushes slowly made their way up a narrow gully. Several Kalij Pheasants had made thisvalley their home and seemed largely unconcerned by the large numbers of people that used the track through their forest.



The skies above the valley were excellent for larger raptors and we were soon checking each and every dot as it broke theridgeline. Most were Eurasian Griffons and Steppe Eagles but with persistence we watched an adult Lammergeier as itcircled slowly over the valley, revealing its warm orange underparts and steely-grey upperwing. A pair of local breedingPeregrines, known locally as Shaheen Falcons, had also made the ridge their home and regularly perched on the barebranches of a dead tree on the ridge.

Returning to Naini Tal in the afternoon, we paused to watch a group of Rock Buntings foraging for seeds below the thickerscrub and with them we noticed a couple of Rufous-breasted Accentors behaving in an equally furtive manner. Anotherpause to check the raptors as we climbed towards Naini Tal revealed even more Eurasian Griffons and Steppe Eagles andanother Peregrine. But the closest raptor clearly was neither of these, instead it was a cracking adult Mountain Hawk-eaglewhich soared around for five minutes and gave the views we can usually only dream about. A couple of Great Barbets inroadside trees by the road barrier was a real bonus as it's unusual to see these stonking barbets at eye level. Much of theafternoon was spent at the High Fields, where birds were few and far between. Again the lack of cold weather meant thealtitudinal migrants had not yet appeared. However a Striated Prinia was a great find and the only one we saw on the tour.

Day 14 Thursday December 4th 2008 For our final morning we took the Kilbury Road to the Snow View lookout andbeyond through Pangot for 17Km through pristine mixed forest, with distant views of the snow-capped peaks of the mightyHimalaya set against a backdrop of forest-clad slopes. In the early morning sunlight, there can be few finer sights on Earth.Birding along this quiet road was quite different to the lower elevations, with many species appearing for the first time,making for yet another exciting day. Oriental Turtle Dove fed by the roadside, our first since that first morning at KeoladeoNP, which seemed a lifetime ago. White-tailed Nuthatch and Spot-winged Tit, both absent until today, were two of the mostnumerous species in the mixed flocks. As always, Grey-hooded Warblers, Black-throated Tits and Oriental White-eyesdominated but by diligently searching through these flocks we also found a party of delightful Black-faced Warblers,Lemon-rumped and Buff-barred Warblers were common, a couple of White-browed Shrike-babblers showed well, Long-tailed Minivets glowed in the morning light, raucous parties of Rufous Sibias were numerous, Green-tailed Sunbirdseventually showed well, while Bar-tailed Treecreepers and Green-backed Tits seemed to be on every tree. Other birdspreferred the company of their own kind; Several small parties of Black-throated Thrushes appeared, culminating in a flockof 30 or so feeding in the road. Noisy groups of Black Bulbuls fed on the fruiting trees, Streaked Laughingthrushes werecommon in the undergrowth, a flock of Black-headed Jays held at least two Eurasian Jays (looking quite different to theirEuropean counterparts) and a couple of male Blue-capped Redstarts ducked and weaved around a bare stump.

As the sun warmed the morning air, large raptors began to appear along the ridges. Along with the now familiar SteppeEagles and Eurasian Griffon, we picked up a couple of Eurasian Black Vultures and finally, after much searching, a coupleof adult Himalayan Griffons and a darker youngster. Usually Himalayan is much the commoner of the two Griffons here,certainly later in the winter, so perhaps they were only just starting to arrive. We ate lunch on a pleasant knoll near thehamlet of Saul, where a Mountain Hawk-eagle circled overhead. While looking at the Himalayas in the late afternoon sun,we noticed dozens of very distant hirundines dotting the skies. Most were too distant, but eventually some drifted closer andrevealed their black throats and vents, confirming them to be Nepal House Martins. With them came a handful of HimalayanSwiftlets but neither species hung around and soon they were gone.

Day 15 Friday December 5th 2008 Today we bid farewell to Naini Tal and began the long drive back to Delhi. Todaywas to be a travelling day and, as the traffic on Indian's overcrowded roads inexorably grinds to a halt, so the time availablefor birding this route becomes ever shorter. This year, our plan to stop at the Ganges was thrown into disarray, but we didadd Black-headed Gull to our list - the final addition - as we crossed the bridge. We eventually reached Delhi shortly afterdusk where a warm shower and farewell dinner awaited before our early morning flight to London.

This had been a memorable tour to some of northern India's most unspoilt wild areas. That such places still remain is downto the goodwill of the Indian people, for without their determination to retain their National Parks and sanctuaries, theseplaces could be overwhelmed by the seething mass of humanity that inhabits the Gangetic plains. In just two weeks we hadvisited four very special areas - all within easy reach of Delhi - and enjoyed some memorable sights. For most, seeing theirfirst Tiger or Leopard will be the highlight, especially when these are not expected on this tour. For others, the birds are ofgreater importance. And of the respectable 318 species we recorded, it was Spotted Forktail that was voted Bird of the Tour,followed closely by Indian Skimmer. But with the likes of Lammergeier, Wallcreeper, Pied Harrier, Ibisbill and thewaterbird bonanza at Keoladeo NP all vying for first place (then throw in the Taj Mahal too!) and this was a tour to satisfyeveryone. And with first-class accommodation and delicious, delicately spiced food, this is undoubtedly one of the finesttours to the subcontinent on offer. Our thanks go to our local expert, Bharat Madhyan, whose knowledge of the wildlife ofhis country ensured the success of this tour. Thanks also go to our driver Shriram and his ever-smiling assistant Bhola, whoensured we always got to where we needed to be. We also thank those guides whose expertise led us to so many specialbirds and mammals at Keoladeo NP, Chambal River and Corbett NP.

Peter Kennerley, December 2008.



SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED(Total number of species recorded by the group - 318)

Black Francolin Francolinus francolinusA male showed superbly, calling from the track through the grasslands, with at least two others calling nearby, at Dhikala on30/11.Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianusRegularly heard and seen daily from 22/11 to 26/11 at Keoladeo NP and Chambal River.Red Junglefowl Gallus gallusOccasionally heard or briefly glimpsed on the trails in Corbett NP, from 28-30/11.Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanosAt Corbett NP, a pair on the access road to Dhikala on 29/11 showed superbly, down to just 3m, followed by three the nextday. At the Mongoli Valley, several small parties totalling 13 birds on 3/12 and a pair along the Kilbury Road on 4/12. Birdsin this region are of the race L. l. hamiltoni.Indian Peafowl Pavo cristataCommon and seen daily at Keoladeo NP, Chambal River and also regularly encountered roadside bird in the south. Lessnumerous at Corbett NP, with singles on 29-30/11 and 10+ on 1/12.Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanicaUp to 80 daily at Keoladeo NP, 60+ at Chambal River on 26/11 and 40+ en-route to Corbett NP on 27/11.Greylag Goose Anser anser rubrirostrisUp to 150 at Keoladeo NP on 23-24/11. These birds showed bright raspberry-pink bills characteristic of the eastern form.Bar-headed Goose Anser indicusAn estimated 44 at Keoladeo NP on 23/11. Better and closer views of c. 150 birds along the Chambal River on 26/11. Thesehigh flying geese breed on the Tibetan plateau and are known to migrate over the highest Himalayan peaks to reach northernIndia - one small step for goosekind, but a unique physiology needed to achieve it.Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotosNumerous and seen daily at Keoladeo NP this year. We estimated 140+ on 23/11.Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferrugineaUp to 10 daily at Keoladeo NP, followed by 12 on the Chambal River on 26/11. The barrage on the Kosi River at Ramnagarheld c. 120 on 28/11 and again on 1/12.Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromandelianusOnly seen at Keoladeo NP with four on 22/11 and five on 23/11.Gadwall Anas streperaCommon in the duck flocks at Keoladeo NP.Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelopeTwo at Keoladeo NP on 23/11, two on a roadside pool by the Yamuna River at Mathura on 26/11 and one on the barrage onthe Kosi River at Ramnagar on 28/11.Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhynchaSmall numbers at Keoladeo NP but the best flock was on a roadside pool by the Yamuna River at Mathura on 26/11, where250+ were present. These birds are of the nominate form.Northern Shoveler Anas clypeataCommon in the duck flocks at Keoladeo NP. 30+ on a roadside pool by the Yamuna River at Mathura on 26/11.Northern Pintail Anas acutaCommon in the duck flocks at Keoladeo NP.Garganey Anas querquedulaCommon in the duck flocks at Keoladeo NP.Common Teal Anas creccaThe most numerous duck in the duck flocks at Keoladeo NP.Red-crested Pochard Netta rufinaOne in flight at Keoladeo NP on 23/11.Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyrocaAn estimated 40 at Keoladeo NP on 23/11, and 10+ showing well on a roadside pool by the Yamuna River at Mathura on26/11.Goosander Mergus merganserTwo flew downstream along the Kosi River on 27/11.Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollisCommon at Keoladeo NP. Also noted on roadside pools en-route to Corbett NP on 27/11.Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephalaVery common at Keoladeo NP, where many still had downy young in the nest. Occasionally seen outside the reserve in thesouth.Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitansUp to 14 daily at Keoladeo NP.



Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopusUp to three daily at Keoladeo NP, and two on a sandbank in the Chambal River on 26/11.Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticusTwo at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 and one there on 24/11.Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalusCommon in Keoladeo NP where many still had young in the nest.Black Ibis Pseudibis papillosaOne by the roadside en-route to Agra on 25/11, and six along the Chambal River on 26/11.Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellusAt least 40 from the watchtower by the temple at Keoladeo NP on 23/11.Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodiaUp to 14 daily at Keoladeo NP, and a juvenile on a sandbank in the Chambal River on 26/11.Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollisAn immature at Keoladeo NP on 23/11.Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticoraxCommon at Keoladeo NP where many still had young in the nests.Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayiiThe most widespread heron. Common at Keoladeo NP, Chambal River, along the Kosi and Ramganga Rivers at Corbett NP,and a regularly encountered roadside bird throughout the lowlands of northern India.Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandusScarce within Keoladeo NP, but very common in farmland throughout the lowlands outside the protected areas, where it wasalways closely associated with herds of cattle. Not recorded from the Corbett or Naini Tal regions. Rasmussen & Anderton(2005) recommend that this taxon is treated as a species distinct from Cattle Egret B. ibis.Grey Heron Ardea cinereaCommon in Keoladeo NP. Elsewhere, scarce although widespread, being recorded from Chambal River and Ramganga Lakeat Dhikala, Corbett NP.Purple Heron Ardea purpureaCommon in Keoladeo NP.Great Egret Ardea albaCommon in Keoladeo NP. Elsewhere, distribution reflected that of Grey Heron but was generally more numerous,particularly at Chambal River and Ramganga Lake at Dhikala, Corbett NP.Intermediate Egret Egretta intermediaCommon in Keoladeo NP.Little Egret Egretta garzettaCommon in Keoladeo NP. Small numbers at the Kosi Barrage at Ramnagar, and at Ramganga Lake near Dhikala, CorbettNP.Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax nigerCommon and widespread throughout the lowlands. Very common in Keoladeo NP, along the Yamuna River at Agra, and atthe Kosi Barrage at Ramnagar.Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollisCommon at Keoladeo NP although less numerous than the previous species. Also eight at the Kosi Barrage at Ramnagar.Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carboScarce within Keoladeo NP but numerous elsewhere in the lowlands with at least 80 in flight past the Taj Mahal on 25/11and 30+ by the Yamuna River at Mathura on 26/11. Common in Corbett NP, particularly on Ramganga Lake and river.Absent from the hills.Darter Anhinga melanogasterCommon at Keoladeo NP. Elsewhere, only noted at Ramganga Lake where one or two were seen on 29-30/11.Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescensThis delightful falconet was common along the forest edge around Dhikala, with several pairs or family groups noted,including a resident pair within the Dhikala FRH compound.Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculusJust three sightings of single birds, at Keoladeo NP on 22/11, in agricultural fields by the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11and along the Chambal River on 26/11.Peregrine Falco peregrinusA pair in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12 and one over the road beyond Pangot on 4/12. These birds were of the resident form,F. p. peregrinator, also known as the Shaheen Falcon, which shows a deep chestnut wash to the lower breast, belly andthighs, and extensive dark sides to the head, making the moustache less obvious.Osprey Pandion haliaetusSingles over the Chambal River on 26/11, and daily near Dhikala and Ramganga Lake from 29/11 to 1/12.Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchusThree singles at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 and 24/11, and one over the Chambal Safari Lodge on 26/11.



Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleusRegular in small numbers at Keoladeo NP where it was most numerous in the drier scrub zone where 6+ were seen on 24/11.Elsewhere, occasionally noted from the bus en-route, and two regularly seen in and around the Dhikala FRH compound on29-30/11.Black Kite Milvus migransSurprisingly scarce away from areas with a strong human presence, i.e. at Keoladeo NP only the occasional bird was seen.More numerous at Agra where 30+ over the Yamuna River and city, and from the bus en-route, i.e. 100+ on 27/11. Absentfrom Corbett NP and up to six daily in the Naini Tal area. However, as we entered Delhi in the evening of 5/11, uncountablenumbers were feeding on the city dump and roosting on pylons, trees. Numbers must have exceeded 10,000, and possiblyreached many times this figure. These birds would presumably comprise both the resident birds of the race M. m. govinda,together with wintering birds from Central Asia.Pallas's Fish Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphusOnly seen at Dhikala, where the atmospheric calls of an adult beside its huge nest on 29/11 will long linger in our memories.Another, or perhaps the same individual, was seen over the Dhikala FRH compound on 30/11.Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilisOne by Dhikala FRH compound on 30/11, and another along the Ramganga River on 30/11 and 1/12.Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatusSingle adults showed well over the Mongoli Valley and the High Fields at Naini Tal on 3/12.Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterusOccasional sightings of single birds at Keoladeo NP and Agra, two at the Chambal River on 26/11 and 4+ on 27/11 en-route.Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensisAn immature followed by two adults along the Kilbury Road beyond Pangot on 4/12.Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvusCommon in the Naini Tal area with four at Sat Tal on 2/12, 15+ at Mongoli Valley and 8+ at the High Fields on 3/12, and 5+along the Kilbury Road beyond Pangot on 4/12.Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvusAn adult and immature at Keoladeo NP on 24/11. One at Dhikala on 29/11, followed by two there on 30/11 and 1/12.Eurasian Black Vulture Aegypius monachusTwo along the Kilbury Road beyond Pangot on 4/12.Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheelaOne at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 followed by two there the next day.Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosusOnly seen at Keoladeo NP where four were noted on 23/11 and 6+ on 24/11. Frequently caused panic amongst winteringduck flocks.Hen Harrier Circus cyaneusA female regularly hunting the grasslands at Dhikala on 29/11 to 1/12.Pallid Harrier Circus macrourusA ringtail over the drier zone at Keoladeo NP on 24/11.Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucosA stunningly attractive male hunting the grasslands at Dhikala on 29-30/11. Often associated closely with the Hen Harrier.Shikra Accipiter badiusOnes and twos regularly seen at Keoladeo NP, Agra, Chambal River, and elsewhere in the agricultural lowlands. Not seen atCorbett NP or Naini Tal. The distinctive call of this species was more frequently heard than the bird was seen.Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisusOne at Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11. Elsewhere, a female at Sat Tal on 2/12, at the High Fields on 3/12 and along theKilbury Road on 4/12.White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesaOne showed well in the dry scrub at Keoladeo NP on 24/11.Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinusOne in flight over the Chambal River on 26/11.Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastataRegularly seen at Keoladeo NP where it appeared to be almost as numerous as wintering Greater Spotted Eagles. Followingtwo on 22/11, two pairs seen well on 23/11 and four on 24/11.Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clangaOnly noted at Keoladeo NP, where two seen on 22/11, six on 23/11 and three on 24/11.Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensisJust one at Keoladeo NP, on 23/11. Common at Naini Tal, with 8+ at Sat Tal on 2/12, 8+ at the Mongoli Valley and 10+ atthe High Fields on 3/12 and 3+ along the Kilbury Road beyond Pangot on 4/12. As we were leaving Naini Tal on 5/12, wepaused at the town dump to watch at least 60 birds which were squabbling over refuse. How the mighty have fallen!Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciataSingle immatures at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 and 24/11, followed by a pair at the nest along the Chambal River on 26/11.Booted Eagle Aquila pennataThree single dark morph birds at Keoladeo NP on 23/11.



Changeable Hawk-eagle Spizaetus limnaeetusOnly seen at Corbett NP where it was noted along the entrance road near the Dhamgari Gate en-route to Dhikala, but mostfrequently from forest edge near the Dhikala FRH compound. The birds we saw were of the subspecies S. c. cirrhatus whichshows a long and prominent crest, quite different to those inhabiting the rest of the species' range. These birds were formerlytreated as a distinct species, Crested Hawk-eagle S. cirrhatus. This treatment may well be adopted again in the future.Mountain Hawk-eagle Spizaetus nipalensisSingle adults below Naini Tal on 3/12, and at Saul on the Kilbury Road beyond Pangot on 4/12.Brown Crake Amaurornis akoolOne in Corbett NP on 1/12.White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurusCommon and widespread at lowland wetlands throughout the south.Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio poliocephalusSmall numbers at Keoladeo NP on 25-26/11, followed by two on a roadside pool by the Yamuna River at Mathura on 26/11.The various populations of this species are accorded species status by some. The form occurring in India is the 'Grey-headed'Swamphen.Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropusSmall numbers at Keoladeo NP on 24-26/11, at least 15 on a roadside pool by the Yamuna River at Mathura on 26/11, andwidespread en route on 27/11.Common Coot Fulica atraCommon at Keoladeo NP. Elsewhere, one on the Chambal River on 26/11, followed by 10+ on a roadside pool by theYamuna River at Mathura on 26/11.Sarus Crane Grus antigoneOnly seen at Keoladeo NP with two distant birds on 23/11, followed by several pairs including a pair with a fully-grownyoungster which showed very well and at close range on 24/11.Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostrisAt least 12 along the Chambal River on 26/11.Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersiiAfter failing to return to its regular wintering haunt along the Kosi River near Ramnagar in recent years, we were nothopeful that we would relocate a bird which had been reported near our hotel in recent days. Fortunately, almost as soon aswe started to search, a bird flew in and landed about 500m from where we stood, allowing us to enjoy this exciting shorebirdfrom the high Himalayas. The white feathering around the bill base indicated this was a young bird. It was then disturbedand fortunately flew towards us and, after a couple of brief pauses, it opted to land just 50m from where we stood, allowingus outstanding, prolonged views.Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopusAt least 25 along a delightful small open sewer in nearby Bharatpur showed nicely in the late evening of 24/11. On 25/11,25+ along the Yamuna River behind the Taj Mahal, followed by 30+ en-route on 26/11 and 10+ en-route on 27/11.River Lapwing Vanellus duvauceliiThis attractive lapwing was widespread along the larger rivers. Two on the Yamuna River behind the Taj Mahal on 25/11were our first. Thereafter, 20+ on the Chambal River on 26/11, 8+ on the Kosi River on 27/11 followed by 4+ on the Kosi atKumeria on 28/11, and two near the Ramganga River in Corbett NP on 1/12.Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicusCommon throughout the lowlands and seen daily from 22/11 to 28/11.Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubiusLargely restricted to shingle banks along the larger rivers where its distribution mirrored that of River Lapwing. Six alongthe Chambal River on 26/11, two on the Kosi River on 27/11 and 2+ by the Kosi Barrage in Ramnagar on 28/11.Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinusOnly seen on the Chambal River where 20+ were seen on 26/11.Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensisAt least eight along a delightfully polluted small stream (= open sewer) in Bharatpur showed nicely in the late evening of24/11. Both the richly coloured females and there dowdy mates were noted here.Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgusUp to 20 daily at Keoladeo NP. All were in non-breeding plumage.Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicusNoted in smaller numbers than Pheasant-tailed Jacana at Keoladeo NP. Also two on a small lake en-route on 27/11.Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropusOne along the open sewer in Bharatpur in the late evening of 24/11.Common Redshank Tringa totanusAt least three on the stream in Bharatpur on 24/11, one on the Yamuna River, Agra on 25/11 and two on the Chambal Riveron 26/11.Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilisAt least three along the open sewer in Bharatpur on 24/11.



Common Greenshank Tringa nebulariaOne by the river in Bharatpur on 24/11, one on the Yamuna River in Agra on 25/11, four on the Chambal River on 26/11,and one the Ramganga River in Corbett NP on 30/11.Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropusUp to four daily in Keoladeo NP, but at least five along the stream in Bharatpur on 24/11, six on the Yamuna River behindthe Taj Mahal on 25/11, 6+ on the Chambal River on 26/11, and two at the Kosi Barrage at Ramnagar on 28/11.Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareolaUp to six daily in Keoladeo NP, but at least 20 along the stream in Bharatpur on 24/11. Elsewhere, 10+ on the Yamuna Riverbehind the Taj Mahal on 25/11.Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucosSmall numbers seen along the stream in Bharatpur, the Yamuna River in Agra, and the Chambal, Kosi and RamgangaRivers.Little Stint Calidris minutaAt least two with Temminck's Stints along the Chambal River on 26/11.Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckiiTwo creeping along the delightful stream in Bharatpur on 24/11, followed by 10+ on the Chambal River on 26/11, and twoat the Kosi Barrage at Ramnagar on 28/11.Ruff Philomachus pugnaxFour along the delightful stream in Bharatpur on 24/11 was the only sighting.Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetusA first-winter bird flew past us at close range along the Yamuna River by the Taj Mahal on 25/11.Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundusAt least 12 over the Ganges on 5/11 while returning to Delhi.River Tern Sterna aurantiaThis attractive tern was only seen on the Chambal River, were at least four birds were present on 26/11.Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticaudaThis increasingly rare tern is restricted to stretches of undisturbed rivers, and the Chambal River is one of its strongholds.During our visit we estimated a total of eight birds were present.Indian Skimmer Rynchops albicollisAs with Black-bellied Tern, Indian Skimmer requires large stretches of undisturbed river to feed and breed, and the 400kmof the Chambal sanctuary is one of its last strongholds. It appears to be doing well here with a good breeding seasonreported. Most had dispersed at the time of our visit but we did manage to seen nine birds at close range.Rock Dove Columba liviaWidespread but usually associated with human habitation, or rocky area. Noted daily.Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalisOne at Keoladeo NP on 23/11, and at least five by the roadside before Pangot on 4/12. All showed the characters of thewestern form S. o. meena which breeds in the western Himalayas and north to Central Asia.Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaoctoWidespread and common in the lowlands and cultivated areas where it was seen daily from 22/11 to 28/11.Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebaricaAt least 30 in fields by the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensisTwo singles at near Dhikala in Corbett NP on 30/11.Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensisWidespread and common in the lowlands and cultivated areas where it was seen daily from 23/11 to 27/11.Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indicaOne flushed from a track in Corbett NP on 1/12.Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterusCommon in Keoladeo NP with up to 15 daily on 23-24/11 and small numbers in the grounds of the Taj Mahal in Agra on25/11. Fruiting figs at the Chambal Safari Lodge, held 12+ birds while at least 15 were feeding in a fig at Unchagaon Fort.Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicaudaAt least 40 feeding in a fruiting fig in Corbett NP near Kinanauli FRH showed extremely well until attacked by aChangeable Hawk Eagle, when they exploded from the tree.Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatriaSix along the roadside near Kumeria on 28/11.Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameriCommon and widespread throughout the lowlands, including Corbett NP, and noted daily from 22/11 to 1/12.Slaty-headed Parakeet Psittacula himalayanaAt least 20 showing well in the early morning sun in Corbett NP on 30/11, and 30+ in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12.Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephalaThree at Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11 and 40+ in Corbett NP on 1/12.



Common Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx variusAn immature in Keoladeo NP on 24/11, followed by an adult in the ravines at Chambal River on 26/11. Also two seen inCorbett NP on 30/11 near Dhikala.Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceaSingle birds occasionally seen at Keoladeo NP, Chambal Safari Lodge and near Unchagaon Fort.Sirkeer Malkoha Taccocua leschenaultiiOne bird showed well in the dry scrub at Keoladeo NP on 24/11.Greater Coucal Centropus sinensisWidespread in the lowlands including Keoladeo NP, Chambal River, Unchagaon Fort and many in agricultural areas en-route.Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensisOne in the grasslands at Dhikala on 30/11.Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoenaA good year for this species. Two roosting by the roadside in a palm at Keoladeo NP on 23/11, followed by the regular pairnear the temple at Keoladeo later the same day. A roosting bird in a dead stump at Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11 and ahunting bird briefly seen in the lodge grounds just after dusk. Finally one roosting in the grounds of the Tiger Camp as weate lunch on 1/12.Dusky Eagle Owl Bubo coromandusA pair of these large owls nesting by the main roadside within Keoladeo NP. One bird was always visible on the nest, but theother adult showed well near the nest 23/11.Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensisOne showed well near the Ramganga River between Dhikala and Kinanauli FRH on 1/12.Tawny Fish Owl Ketupa flavipesA good year for this huge owl, which is easily missed. A roosting pair close to the roadside near Kumeria on 28/11, althoughone bird slipped off through the trees, leaving most of us to enjoy outstanding views of the remaining bird. Then on 2/12,three roosting birds seen in Corbett NP.Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoidesOne showed well in the Dhikala FRH compound on 29/11.Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatumSingles seen near Kinanauli FRH on 30/11 and 1/12.Spotted Owlet Athene bramaTwo or three seen daily at Keoladeo NP on 23-24/11. A pair roosting in a roadside tree en-route to Agra on 25/11. One atUnchagaon Fort, hunting under the floodlights, as we arrived in the late evening on 26/11, then the pair seen roosting therethe next morning. A good showing.Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulataRoosting birds shown to us in the nursery just outside Keoladeo NP on 23/11 and at Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Indian Jungle Nightjar Caprimulgus indicusTwo single roosting birds seen at Keoladeo NP on 23/11. Unlike the next species, this nightjar roosts off the ground on treebranches.Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurusAfter trying hard but failing to find a promised roosting bird the previous day, our guide took us to another stake out atKeoladeo NP where we enjoyed great views of a bird roosting amongst the leaf litter on 24/11.Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostrisAt least 60 distant swiftlets plus a couple of closer birds, all assumed to be this species, were seen above the Kilbury Roadon 4/12.White-rumped Spinetail Zoonavena sylvaticaAt least 100 birds, many feeding low over the canopy, were seen well as we made our way to Dhikala FRH on 29/11.Little Swift Apus affinisCommon over and around Keoladeo NP and over Agra. Also several at dusk low over the Kosi River near Ramnagar.Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronataOnly seen at Corbett NP with 40+ near Kumeria on 28/11, followed by smaller numbers daily from 29/11 to 1/12.Indian Roller Coracias benghalensisUp to three daily at Keoladeo NP, en-route to Agra and in fields near Chambal Safari Lodge, between 22-25/11.Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensisOne heard near Kinanauli FRH on 30/11.White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensisCommon and widespread, and seen daily from 22/11 to 2/12.Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthisSmall numbers seen daily at Keoladeo NP. Also seen along the Kosi River at Kumeria and near Ramnagar, and at Sat Tal.Crested Kingfisher Megaceryle lugubrisThis stunning kingfisher was fairly common on the Kosi River. The first was seen on 27/11, followed by 3+ at Kumeria thenext day. Thereafter, at least two on the Ramganga River in Corbett NP.



Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudisAbsent from Keoladeo NP, but present on the delightful stream in Bharatpur on 24/11. Widespread elsewhere throughout thelowlands, including Corbett NP, and seen daily from 24/11 to 1/12.Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoniWe were surprised to see this odd bee-eater so late in the season. A pair showed well in the Dhikala FRH compound on29/11, then we watched a second pair along forest edge near Dhikala on our afternoon drive. Also one on 1/12 as we wereleaving Corbett NP.Common Hoopoe Upupa epopsSeen daily 23-27/11. Most numerous in the fields near Chambal Safari Lodge where six birds were seen.Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostrisSmall numbers seen daily in Keoladeo NP, Chambal Safari Lodge, Unchagaon Fort and near Kumeria just outside CorbettNP. Most were feeding on fruiting figs.Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostrisFour bird along the entrance road from the Dhamgari Gate to Dhikala FRH. Although three fled immediately, one remainedfor everyone to enjoy.Great Hornbill Buceros bicornisOne by the roadside near Kumeria on 28/11 was the only sighting.Great Barbet Megalaima virensTwo heard and briefly glimpsed at Sat Tal on 2/12, but two seen extremely well beside the bus by the barrier at the entranceto the Kilbury Road on 3/12.Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanicaCommon in the lowlands were it was regularly heard and occasionally heard, but absent from Corbett NP and Naini Talareas.Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineataThis species replaces Brown-headed Barbet at Corbett NP, where it is common along the forest edges such as the Kumeriaroad. Up to 15 daily from 28/11 to 1/12. Absent from higher elevations.Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiaticaRegularly heard and occasionally seen at Corbett NP, and seen well at Sat Tal.Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephalaOne or two seen, or more frequently heard, at Keoladeo NP, and at Chambal Safari Lodge from 22/11 to 25/11. Also twoseen well at Kumeria, just outside Corbett NP on 29/11.Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillusOnly seen in the Corbett NP and Naini Tal areas. Frequently encountered in the small bird waves which quickly movethrough, making it difficult to track individual birds, so likely that we saw many more than we recorded. Up to four daily inand around Corbett NP, and one at Sat Tal on 2/12.Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos maceiA female at Kumeria on 29/11 followed by a pair in Corbett NP on 1/12.Brown-fronted Woodpecker Dendrocopos auricepsA male at the Mongoli Valley on 3/12 and 4+ on the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensisOne near the temple at Keoladeo NP on 24/11.Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophusTwo at the roadside near Kumeria on 28/11 and two in Corbett NP on 1/12.Greater Yellownape Picus flavinuchaA pair quietly seeking out grubs on a fallen log in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12.Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeusSeveral sightings of this attractive woodpecker in the woodlands near Dhikala between 29/11 and 1/12.Scaly-bellied Woodpecker Picus squamatusJust one sighting, of a bird seen near the Leopard on 29/11. Unfortunately, those in the second jeep were so engrossed in theLeopard they completely overlooked the woodpecker!Grey-faced Woodpecker Picus canusTwo sightings of single birds in woodlands near Dhikala on 29/11 and 30/11.Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shoriiA pair showed well by the road en-route to Kumeria on 28/11 with the male there again next day. Often a tricky bird to findhere.Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalenseUp to three daily at Keoladeo NP, and a male near Dhikala on 29/11.Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentusSeeing this magnificent woodpecker is always a surprise, so to get good views of a male in the compound of the KinanauliFRH on 30/11 was a real bonus.Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatusA flock of 15+ birds in a mixed bird wave in woodland near Dhikala FRH on 30/11.



Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianusOne near Kumeria on 29/11 followed by 10+ in the large mixed bird wave together with the Large Woodshrikes on 30/11.Common Iora Aegithina tiphiaAt least four by the roadside near Kumeria on 29/11.Large Cuckooshrike Coracina maceiOne flew overhead, calling, on 1/12 while we were waiting for the Tiger to appear.Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologusFairly common at Kumeria and in Corbett woodlands with up to 25 daily from 28/11 to 1/12. Also 10+ along Kilbury Roadon 4/12.Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosusGenerally commoner at Kumeria than the previous species, but scarcer within Corbett NP. Absent from the Naini Tal area.Bar-winged Flycatchershrike Hemipus picatusSeveral in mixed parties near Kumeria and within Corbett NP. Up to 30 daily from 28/11 to 1/12. Also at least one at Sat Talon 2/12.Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinusTwo single birds at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 and 24/11. These birds showed characters associated with the nominate form.Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatusAt least three single birds seen at Keoladeo NP from 22/11 to 24/11, and one in fields near the Chambal Safari Lodge on25/11.Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schachWidespread and seen daily in small numbers from 22/11 to 3/11. The birds we encountered would be of the race L. s.erythronotus which is resident in the region, although birds of this form from Central Asia augment numbers here in thewinter months.Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalisJust one bird, in the fields near Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11. These birds are of the resident race L. m. lahtora.Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornusOne at Keoladeo NP on 24/11. No further sightings until we reached Corbett NP where it was regularly encountered in thewoods near Dhikala FRH with up to six daily from 29/11 to 1/12, often in the mixed bird flocks.Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercusCommon in the lowlands with up to 50 daily from 22/11 to 27/11. Absent from Corbett NP and Naini Tal.White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescensTwo single birds in the forest near Dhikala FRH on 29/11 and 30/11. Birds in this region are of the nominate form.Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneusA group of four birds hawking for insects from a dead tree near Kumeria on 28/11.Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remiferTwo single birds in the forest near Dhikala FRH on 29/11 and 30/11.Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxanthaA regular feature of the mixed bird flocks at Corbett NP, with regular sightings of up to six birds here from 28/11 to 1/12.Also 6+ at Sat Tal on 2/12.White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollisStatus as the above species within Corbett NP. At higher elevations, one at Sat Tal on 2/12 and two in the Mongoli Valley on3/12.White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureolaJust one sighting, at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 near the temple.Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandariusTwo along the Kilbury Road with Black-headed Jays on 4/12. These distinctive birds are of the Himalayan form G. g.bispecularis.Black-headed Jay Garrulus lanceolatusOne by the roadside after leaving the Mongoli Valley on 3/12, and a flock of at least eight on the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhynchaThis beautiful corvid is always a great hit. We enjoyed several encounters, with 4+ at Sat Tal and a couple in the MongoliValley.Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabundaCommon and widespread except at higher elevations where it is replaced by the next species. Noted at Keoladeo NP, in thegrounds of the Taj Mahal in Agra, at Unchagaon Fort and in the forests and scrub at Corbett NP.Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosaeNoted at Corbett NP with 6+ near Kumeria on 28/11, two on 29/11 and one on 30/11. At higher elevations, two at Sat Tal on2/12 and at the Mongoli Valley on 3/12.House Crow Corvus splendensAbundant and commensurate with man throughout the lowlands. Absent from higher elevations and not noted in the NainiTal area.Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchosCommon and widespread, and seen daily in all habitats visited. Less numerous than House Crow.



Spot-winged Tit Periparus melanolophusCommon along the Kilbury Road, with 40+ estimated there on 4/12.Great Tit Parus majorCommon in the mixed flocks at Corbett NP. Small numbers also noted at Sat Tal but no sightings elsewhere in the Naini Talarea.Green-backed Tit Parus monticolusCommon in the Naini Tal area, particularly on the Kilbury Road where 20+ were noted.Black-lored Tit Parus xanthogenysAt least ten in a mixed bird party beyond the Dhamgari Gate en-route to Dhikala FRH in Corbett NP on 29/11, followed byother occasional sightings. More numerous at higher elevations were it was regularly seen at Sat Tal and the Mongoli Valleybut only a couple seen on the Kilbury Road.Grey-throated Martin Riparia chinensisThe most numerous hirundine, seen daily in large numbers from 22/11 to 1/12. Formerly a race of Plain Martin R.paludicola.Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolorAt least 30 over the Kosi River near the Corbett Hideaway on 27/11, and 10+ at the Kosi Barrage at Ramnagar on 28/11.Barn Swallow Hirundo rusticaSmall numbers at the Chambal River, Corbett NP and Sat Tal, maximum of 60+ over the Dhikala grasslands on 29/11.Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithiiSmall numbers, up to six, at Keoladeo NP and the Chambal River.Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalenseAt least eight in a group of unidentified House Martins along the Kilbury Road on 4/12. Most were too distant to identifypositively, so there may have been many more present.Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis dauricaRegular sightings of small numbers at Keoladeo NP, the Chambal River and Corbett NP. Maximum of 40+ over the Dhikalagrasslands on 29/11.Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnusRestricted to higher elevations where it was common at all locations near Naini Tal including Sat Tal, the Mongoli Valleyand the Kilbury Road.Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactylaAt least 10 by the Chambal River on 26/11. All quite grey above and presumably of the Central Asian form C. b.longipennis.Sand Lark Calandrella raytalAt least one bird with the Short-toed Larks by the Chambal River on 26/11.Crested Lark Galerida cristataTwo by the Chambal River on 26/11.Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidisOccasional sightings of single birds at Keoladeo NP, but fairly common in the Dhikala grasslands.Golden-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilisTwo single birds in the Dhikala grasslands on 30/11.Striated Prinia Prinia crinigeraOne in the High Fields at Naini Tal on 3/12.Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsoniiA common bird of the low scrub at Corbett NP with up to 40 seen daily from 28/11 to 1/12. Small parties also seen at SatTal and the Mongoli Valley.Ashy Prinia Prinia socialisTwo or three daily at Keoladeo NP from 22/11 to 24/11. At least four in the fields by Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11, andsingles at Corbett on 28/11 and 30/11.Plain Prinia Prinia inornataFairly common in the grasslands at Keoladeo NP and Corbett NP. Also at least three in the fields by Chambal Safari Lodgeon 25/11.Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutoriusOccasional sightings at Keoladeo NP and Corbett NP. Not particularly numerous.Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventrisThree at Kumeria on 28/11 was followed by 8+ in Corbett NP on 29/11 and 14+ on 30/11.Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosusSmall numbers noted at Kumeria and along the Ramganga River in Corbett NP.White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotisUp to six daily in Keoladeo NP. Elsewhere, one at Chambal River on 26/11 and one at Unchagaon Fort on 27/11.Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenysAbundant in Corbett NP, with 100s daily from 28/11 to 1/12. Also common at all sites at and below Naini Tal, but absentfrom the Kilbury Road.



Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus caferThe most widespread bulbul and seen daily from 22/11 to 3/12. Like Himalayan Bulbul, also absent from the Kilbury Road.Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavalaOnly seen at Kumeria and Corbett NP, with up to 12 daily from 28/11 to 30/11.Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalusCommon at all sites near Naini Tal. These pale grey birds with whitish cheeks belong to the race H. l. psaroides.Grey-sided Bush Warbler Cettia brunnifronsOne seen briefly by some of our group at Sat Tal on 2/12.Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreusJust one bird seen, at Keoladeo NP on 23/11. These birds are of the race A. s. brunnescens, which breeds in Central Asia andwinters in the Indian peninsular.Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorumTwo or three daily at Keoladeo NP, always drawing attention to themselves by their hard 'tak' call.Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybitaFour or fiver most days at Keoladeo NP from 22/11 to 24/11. Also one in scrub by the Kosi River near Kumeria on 27/11and one at Sat Tal on 2/12. These drab grey-brown birds are of the race P. c. tristis.Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatusThe characteristic hard 'tak' call eventually lead us to a Dusky Warbler at Sat Tal on 2/12.Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcherOne at Sat Tal on 2/12. Thereafter 6+ at the Mongoli Valley on 3/12 and a similar number along the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennisThree in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12 and two on the Kilbury Road the next day.Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotusTwo in a mixed bird party beyond the Dhamgari Gate en-route to Dhikala FRH in Corbett NP on 29/11. All other sightingscame from the Naini Tal region with one at Sat Tal on 2/12, 10+ at the Mongoli Valley on 3/12 and 15+ along the KilburyRoad on 4/12.Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humeiCommon, widespread and seen daily throughout the lowlands and in Corbett NP.Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloidesJust three birds, all in Keoladeo NP, on 23/11 and 24/11.Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleriTwo at Kumeria on 28/11 was the only sighting away from the Naini Tal area. Following a single bird at Sat Tal on 2/12, atleast eight were seen at the Mongoli Valley on 3/12.Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistosA common bird of the mixed bird parties in Corbett NP and at higher elevations. Particularly numerous at higher elevations,with 20+ at Sat Tal on 2/12, 40+ in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12, and 80+ along the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticepsThis species is rare at the western limit of its range so we were lucky to bump into a party of at least 10 of these charmingwarblers along the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia currucaCommon at Keoladeo NP with up to 40 birds seen or heard daily. Elsewhere just a couple at the Chambal Safari Lodge. Allwere of the Central Siberian form S. c. blythi.Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenysA pair showed well along the track from the Dhamgari Gate en-route to Dhikala FRH in Corbett NP on 29/11, followed byanother along the same road on 1/12. At least three in the Mongoli Valley on 3/11.Nepal Wren-babbler Pnoepyga immaculataA singing male showed well c. 4km along the track from the Dhamgari Gate in Corbett NP, close to were a stream runs closeto the right side of the track.Black-chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhopsSeveral small parties at Corbett NP between 28/11 and 1/12.Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinenseSix in the Dhikala grasslands on 1/12.Common Babbler Turdoides caudataOne in dry scrub at Keoladeo NP on 24/11, and 20+ in the ravines at Chambal River on 26/11.Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmiSmall parties of these noisy and conspicuous were regularly encountered at Keoladeo NP, but were more numerous atChambal River, where several groups of up to 15 birds frequented the fields near the Chambal Safari Lodge and othernearby sites.Jungle Babbler Turdoides striataCommon and widespread at all sites except the Naini Tal region, where two in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12 was the onlysighting.White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularisAt least 20 at Sat Tal and 60+ at the Mongoli Valley.



White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophusRegularly heard in the forest near Dhikala but no birds were actually seen.Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatusSix at Sat Tal on 2/12.Streaked Laughingthrush Garrulax lineatusCommon at Sat Tal, the Mongoli Valley and along the Kilbury Road.Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalusAt least four in the Mongoli Valley on 3/12.Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix luteaAt least 12 in a mixed bird party along the track from the Dhamgari Gate in Corbett NP on 29/11.White-browed Shrike-babbler Pteruthius flaviscapisTwo males in a mixed bird party on the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrataUp to four at Sat Tal and the Mongoli Valley, but common along the Kilbury Road where 40+ were noted on 4/12.Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosusCommon and widespread, and seen or heard most days. Most numerous in the Naini Tal area with 60+ seen daily.Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventrisRegularly seen in the mixed bird parties at Corbett NP with up to ten daily. Elsewhere, just two at Sat Tal on 2/12 and one atthe Mongoli Valley on 3/12.White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensisCommon along the Kilbury Road , with 30+ estimated there on 4/12.Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalisOnly seen in Corbett NP and adjacent forests, where it was numerous in the mixed bird parties and recorded daily from28/11 to 1/12.Wallcreeper Tichodroma murariaThanks to Joy's efforts we soon tracked down a wintering bird on a huge cliff face along the Kosi River on 1/12.Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayanaOne at Kumeria on 28/11 was the only sighting away from the hills. Generally common in the Naini Tal area with regularsightings of up to 12 birds at Sat Tal, the Mongoli Valley and along the Kilbury Road.Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianusA common bird of the villages, but absent from Corbett and Naini Tal areas.Common Myna Acridotheres tristisCommon, widespread and recorded daily.Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contraCommon at Keoladeo NP and in the agricultural lowlands including the Chambal River region and north to Unchagaon Fort.Absent from Corbett NP and the Naini Tal areas.Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarumCommon at Keoladeo NP and the fields at Chambal Safari Lodge.Rosy Starling Sturnus roseusAt least 15 birds with other starlings in the fields adjacent to the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleusCommon on the Kosi River at Kumeria where 10+ birds noted. Also numerous in the Naini Tal area, including the hotelgrounds.Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrinaA wintering bird at the temple at Keoladeo NP on 23/11. This individual showed the characteristics of the nominate form, Z.c. citrina, which breeds in the Himalayas and is a winter visitor to the lowlands.Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularisAt least 40 along the Kilbury Road on 4/12.Bluethroat Luscinia svecicaTwo or three seen daily at Keoladeo NP. Not seen elsewhere.White-tailed Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralisA male seen by those in the first jeep along the access road near Dhikala on 29/11. It appears that the main arrival had yet totake place and numbers present were quite low.Himalayan Bluetail Tarsiger rufilatusThis stunning chat was one of the highlights of this tour. Who will ever forget that cracking male that showed so well,together with a couple of females, at Sat Tal? Several heard at the Mongoli Valley and along the Kilbury Road , but it wasn'tuntil last light on 4/12 that another male popped into view. Recently split from Red-flanked Bluetail T. cyanurus.Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularisWidespread in small numbers and noted at all lowland sites including Corbett NP most days from 22/11 to 1/12.Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicatusUp to three daily at Keoladeo NP from 22/11 to 24/11. Also 10+ seen near the Chambal Safari Lodge and river on 26/11.Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus caeruleocephalaTwo males along the Kilbury Road on 4/12. A winter visitor from the mountains of Central Asia.



Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochrurosCommon at Keoladeo NP with up to six seen daily. Elsewhere, two at the Chambal Safari Lodge, a female by the Kosi Riveron 27/11 and a male en-route to Naini Tal on 1/12. Males showed characters of two races, the grey-backed P. o.phoenicuroides and the black-backed P. o. rufiventris, although there was some variation and these may have beenintergrades between these forms.Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosaCommon on rivers, streams and lakes, and seen daily from 27/11 to 3/12.White-capped Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalusStatus similar to that of the previous species although less numerous and absent from lakes and smaller streams.Little Forktail Enicurus scouleriOne on the Kosi River at Kumeria on 28/11 and another on the stream c. 8km before Naini Tal on the Kaladhungi Road.Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatusOne on the stream by the roadside c. 8km before Naini Tal on the Kaladhungi Road. Another in the stream that runsalongside the Kilbury Road on 4/12. Voted Bird of the Tour by a considerable margin.Hodgson's Bushchat Saxicola insignisThe Dhikala grasslands are an important wintering sites for this rare chat, which has only been discovered to winter heresince the early 2000s. We were fortunate to see c. 6 individuals here during our stay including adult and immature males,and females.Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurusSmall numbers found wintering in the drier areas at Keoladeo NP and near the Chambal River, and common in the Dhikalagrasslands with up to 20 seen on each jeep drive. Also noted at Sat Tal and the High Fields at Naini Tal.Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprataFairly common in the drier areas at Keoladeo NP and the fields at Chambal Safari Lodge. Also two females in fields by theroadside near Kumeria on 28/11. These birds would most likely be of the race S. c. bicolour which breeds in northern India,but some could be wintering birds of the race S. c. rossorum from Central Asia.Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferreusA common bird in roadside scrub at Corbett NP and also at higher elevations, particularly Sat Tal and the Mongoli Valley.Its dark eye patch and characteristic habit of sitting conspicuously on top of a bush often lead to calls of 'shrike'.Desert Wheatear Oenanthe desertiAt least three males and a female by the Chambal River on 26/11.Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picataA female by the Chambal River on 26/11. This bird showed the characters of the nominate form O. p. picata.Brown Rockchat Cercomela fuscaA pair seen each morning at our hotel in Bharatpur, often coming into the courtyard to feed on spilt crumbs.Blue Rock-thrush Monticola solitariusA male by the Chambal River on 26/11.Chestnut-bellied Rock-thrush Monticola rufiventrisA pair in a bush by the roadside above Sat Tal on 2/12.Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiataTwo males at Corbett NP on 29/11 and a male at Sat Tal on 2/12.Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parvaCommon at Keoladeo NP and at the Chambal Safari Lodge. Most were first-winter birds but two adult males near the templein Keoladeo NP showed superbly. No sign of any Red-throated Flycatchers F. albicilla though, perhaps we were too early?Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanniTwo males in Corbett NP, near Dhikala, on 29/11 and a female at Sat Tal on 2/12.Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliarisA first-winter bird near the temple at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 was a surprise.Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolorOnly seen in the scrub at Sat Tal, where at least three females showed well, and a male put in a very brief appearance.Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundaraA female in roadside scrub near Kumeria on 28/11 and a male at Sat Tal on 2/12.Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensisAt least three near the temple complex at Keoladeo NP on 23/11 was the only sighting away from Corbett NP. Regularlyencountered in the mixed bird parties at Corbett and seen daily from 27/11 to 1/12.Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasiiNice views of a bird on the Kosi River at Kumeria on 28/11.Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickiiOne seen briefly by some of our group at Kumeria on 28/11.Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticusSmall numbers seen and heard daily at Keoladeo NP and at Agra from 22/11 to 25/11. All were in female type plumage.Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensisAt least six birds, all in female type plumage, along the Kilbury Road on 4/12.



Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparajaTwo birds, retaining just the red throat patch, at Kumeria on 28/11.House Sparrow Passer domesticusOccasionally seen close to human habitation in the lowlands and at Naini Tal, but the largest flocks, comprising severalhundred individuals, were in the fields close to the Chambal Safari Lodge, and en-route to Corbett. It seems likely that thesebirds would be winter visitors of the migratory race P. d. bactrianus from Central Asia. This attractive migratory sparrow isa summer visitor to Kazakhstan and winters on the plains of northwest India and Pakistan. In spring, this is the mostnumerous species recorded on migration at the Chokpak Ringing Station in the western Tien Shan.Russet Sparrow Passer rutilansAt least two at Sat Tal on 2/12.Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Gymnoris xanthocollisA flock of 12+ individuals in the dry scrub at Keoladeo NP on 24/11, and two in fields near the Chambal Safari Lodge on25/11.Black-breasted Weaver Ploceus benghalensisTwo in fields near the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinusAt least eight birds perched in trees at the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Indian Silverbill Euodice malabaricaFour in the dry scrub at Keoladeo NP on 24/11, and two in fields near the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulataSmall parties of up to 15 individuals noted on three occasions in the Corbett NP area, and two at Sat Tal on 2/12.Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiataTwo showed well in roadside scrub by the Kaladhungi Road on 3/12.Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreolaSmall numbers, up to six, seen daily at Keoladeo NP, Chambal River and Corbett NP from 23/11 to 1/12. These attractiveblack-backed Citrine Wagtails are of the form M. c. calcarata which is currently treated as a race of Citrine Wagtail byWestern ornithologists. However, Russian ornithologists consider these black-backed birds to represent a full species, Black-backed Citrine Wagtail M. calcarata, distinct from the grey-backed Citrine Wagtails of northern Eurasia.Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinereaOccasionally heard calling in flight at Keoladeo NP but the attractive sewage stream in Bharatpur held at least four birds on24/11. Regularly seen and heard on the Ramganga and Kosi Rivers at Corbett NP, and also on the lakes at Sat Tal.White Wagtail Motacilla albaWhite Wagtails were seen and heard daily throughout much of our itinerary, but were most numerous in the lowland areas,and largely absent from the Naini Tal region. We encountered several races of this winter visitor from Central Asia,including:M. a. alba The most widespread race and frequently encountered race, with up to ten daily at Keoladeo NP, up to 30 alongthe Chambal River and eight at Corbett NP.M. a. personata A male in Bharatpur on 24/11 and two at Corbett NP on 28/11. This distinctive race, known as MaskedWagtail, breeds widely in Central Asia and Russian ornithologists generally treat it as a distinct species, M. personata,distinct from White Wagtail of Europe.M. a. leucopsis A male by the Chambal River on 26/11 and 4+ by the Kosi River near Kumeria on 27/11. This races breedswidely in China, from Hong Kong north to the Russian border on the Amur River, and west to the mountains in Sichuan.M. a. baicalensis One by the Kosi River near Kumeria on 27/11.M. a. alboides Two at Corbett NP on 28/11. This resembles M. a. personata but has a black rather than grey mantle, andbreeds in the Himalayas.White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensisTwo on the attractive sewage stream in Bharatpur on 24/11 were the only birds noted in the Bharatpur region. Elsewhere, atleast ten on the Chambal River on 26/11, then up to 15 daily on rivers and streams in Corbett NP.Richard's Pipit Anthus richardiOne flew over calling at the Dhikala grasslands on 30/11.Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulusOne at Keoladeo NP on 24/11 and two in fields by the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11. The only other sighting was of fourby the Kosi River on 27/11.Long-billed Pipit Anthus similisOne in the ravines near the Chambal River on 26/11.Tree Pipit Anthus trivialisSeveral single birds seen in Keoladeo NP, and one in fields at the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoniRegularly seen and heard at Corbett NP, and at least six at Sat Tal on 2/12.Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatusAppeared to be quite numerous in the Dhikala Grasslands where calling birds were regularly heard and the occasional birdflew overhead. Getting to see one well, however, proved to be just about impossible.



Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoidesA pair showed well at Sat Tal on 2/12.Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinusAt least eight in roadside trees near Kumeria on 29/11, and a female at Sat Tal on 2/12.Crested Bunting Melophus lathamiA male in the Dhikala grasslands on 30/11.Rock Bunting Emberiza ciaAt least six in roadside scrub by the Kaladhungi Road on 3/12.White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewartiTwo males in roadside scrub at Sat Tal on 2/12.Red-headed Bunting Emberiza brunicepsAt least eight in agricultural fields near the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11.

MAMMALSNorthern Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantiiCommon at Keoladeo NP, Agra, Chambal River and in many of the small towns and villages through which we passed,northwest to the Ganges.Eastern House Mouse Mus musculusOne in the dining area at the hotel in Bharatpur.Asian Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditusA family party of at least individuals in the trees at the Chambal Safari Lodge on 25/11. Also known as Toddy Cat.Leopard Panthera pardusWe were extremely fortunate to see this magnificent cat, which decided to spend the morning in a roadside tree along themain Dhikala access road in Corbett NP. Always much harder to see in Corbett than Tiger. It spent much of its timewashing, so had presumably made a kill nearby, then sauntered along its branch before slumping down on another branch.Tiger Panthera tigrisNormally you don't see Tiger in Corbett NP. There are plenty of them here, probably over 100, but they are just verydifficult to connect with. Undoubtedly one of the highlights of a very exciting tour.Golden Jackal Canis aureusRegularly seen in Keoladeo NP, and two by the Chambal River on 26/11.Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteusSeveral roosting at Chambal Safari Lodge.Indian Pipistrelle Pipistrellus coromandraThis is the small bat we saw at Bharatpur and in Delhi.Terai Grey Langur Semnopithecus hectorNow the langurs have been split, those we saw at Corbett NP and in the Naini Tal area are this species which favours higherground.Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulattaCommon and widespread, and seen daily.Ganges River Dolphin Platanista gangeticaAt least three in the Chambal River showed well by our boat.Wild Boar Sus scrofaOccasionally seen at Keoladeo NP and also in Corbett NP.Indian Muntjac Muntiacus muntjakRegularly heard and occasionally seen on the trails at Corbett NP. Also one at Sat Tal.Sambar Cervus unicolorOccasionally seen at Keoladeo NP and Corbett NP.Chital Axis axisJust three at Keoladeo NP, but common at Corbett NP where several large herds were seen.Nilgai Boselaphus tragocamelusCommon in Keoladeo NP and occasionally seen in fields outside the park. Also seen at Chambal River.Asian Elephant Elephas maximusTwo by the roadside near Kumeria were sufficiently close to attract the attention of villagers and children of their way toschool, but clearly nothing particularly out of the ordinary. Otherwise, just three in Corbett NP.

REPTILES & AMPHIBIANSMugger (Marsh Crocodile) Crocodylus palustrisAt least six on the Chambal River. Regularly seen on the Ramganga River in Corbett NP, with up to six hauled out on theriverbanks.



Gharial Gavialis gangeticusAt least 20 at Chambal River. All were females with the exception of a single male with its swollen nose. Also a youngsterin the Ramganga Lake at Dhikala in Corbett NP.Northern House Gecko Hemidactylus flaviviridisNoted in the hotel at Bharatpur.Common Garden Lizard Calotes versicolorRegularly seen in Keoladeo NP.Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensisTwo in Keoladeo NP and one in Corbett NP.Kashmir Agama Laudakia tuberculataOne on the Kilbury Road.Chequered Keelback Xenochrophis piscatorOne at Keoladeo NP.Skittering Frog Euphlyctis cyanophlyctisSeveral at Keoladeo NP.Indian Tent Turtle Kachuga tentoriaSeveral along the banks of the Chambal River Sanctuary.Indian Roofed Turtle Kachuga tectaThis was the smallish hard-shelled turtle that we saw at Keoladeo NP, Chambal River Sanctuary and Corbett NP.

northern india: bharatpur, corbett & nainital 21 nov-6 dec

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