nose-in-a-day, el capitan, yosemite valley
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Climbing the Nose on El CapitanTRANSCRIPT
Nose-in-a-DayEl Capitan, Yosemite Valley
October 1, 2013Kishen Mangat & Bosier Parsons
Style Evolution on El Capitan
2001 2013
Route The Nose The Nose
Vertical height 3300’ 3300'
Objective Multi-day Single day
Style Lead swap Short fixing
Total pitches 31 31
Pitches / 24 hr 8 28
Haul bag Yes No
Nights slept 3 0
Gear (lbs.) 140 40
Total time 79 hours 27 hours
Ethos Brute force Planned execution
Style objectives
• Be fit! (remember we’re forty..)• Light and fast– Eliminate the haul bag, sleeping bags– Light rack etc.
• Utilize “Short fixing” technique– Not the same as simul climbing– Move faster on long routes– Leader fixes the rope– Follower and leader advance simultaneously
until the seconder reaches the new belay point
The Nose Route• FA 1961, Warren
Harding et al• Very crowded• Numerous pendulums• Excellent free and
easy aid climbing• Worth the reputation
El Cap Basics• When to go?
– May, September, October, early November– June through August is very hot
• Where to stay?– Camp 4: Historic climbers campground. First come, first served.– Curry Village: Permanent platform tents by reservation– Pines Campground: Campsites by reservation– Ahwanee Hotel: Five star accommodations
• Where to get beta– Tom Evans’ El Cap Report– Mountain Project– Super Topo– The bridge
• Guidebooks: – Yosemite Climbs, Don Reid– Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, SuperTopo– Many others
• Guiding: Yosemite Mountain SchoolYosemitePark.com/rock-climbing-guides-pages.asp
Training
• Stamina, strength and endurance are key• Climb a lot of pitches– Boulder Canyon rock e.g. Castle Rock – RMNP– Black Canyon– South Platte
• Climb in Yosemite– Halfdome– Rostrum
• Practice Short fixing at Cynical Pinnacle
Halfdome Training Climb
• Regular NW Face• July 4th weekend, 2013• 22 pitches• Single push; 18 hours• Two 11 pitch leader
blocks• Short fixing style
Death Slabs Approach
Zig ZagsLower route
Pitch 21Thank God Ledge
ONTO THE NOSE!
Tom Evans, El Cap Meadow old-timer
Lower Buttress below Sickle
Dolt Tower
Stove Legs crack system
El Cap Tower
Sickle Ledge
Stove Legs
Above Dolt, approaching El Cap Tower
Texas Flake
Boot Flake
Grey Bands
Great roof
Great Roof
Great Roof (Short Fix)
Pancake Flake
Glowering Spot
Camp Six
Halfdome
Sentinel
Middle Cathedral Lower Cathedral
Higher Cathedral
