notes on an obsession - amazon web services · march 2019 notes on an obsession another mesmerising...

Notes on anObsession

by Olivier Dupon

• March 2019 •

Each month in this column, I will share my se-cret jewellery discoveries with you; a selec-tion of up to five jewellery pieces based on their craftsmanship and inspiring creativity. Only one-of-a-kind (or limited edition) jew-els, chosen from all around the world, will make the cut. It is not about value (pieces could start from a few thousands up to mil-lions), yet these pieces could be as much a good financial investment as an emotion-al one. There will be no theme other than uniqueness in all aspects. It is exclusively on Deluxe Pad for you to peruse, appreciate and eventually make your own.

Olivier Dupon

Notes on an Obsession

Notes on an ObsessionMarch 2019

Haute Couture has often inspired Haute Joaillerie, but in this case Bridal Couture (also the name of this capsule collection) is the inspi-ration for 6 one-of-a-kind rings by Harry Winston; each featuring a dif-ferent cut (cushion, emerald, mar-quise, round brilliant, pear and oval), different carat weights and unique designs as seen in the intricately de-tailed bands and shanks. There is a reference to Chantilly lace for the emerald-cut solitaire, that of the love knot symbol for the cushion-cut it-eration, that of crystal embroideries for the round brilliant-cut ring, the romantic bow for the design with an oval shaped diamond, and the ev-er enchanting toi et moi setting for the marquise-cut. As you can see, a lot of thought has gone into each unique ring, and with prices ranging between 5 and 6 figures, there is al-most a ring for everyone. But after all, an engagement ring that bears the hallmarks of a Harry Winston creation is somehow priceless.

www.harrywinston.com

Engagement Ring by Harry Winston in platinum with one 3.15-carat cushion-cut diamond and diamonds (total weight of diamonds is 3.9 carats); one of a kind; Bridal Couture. POA.

Engagement Ring by Harry Winston in platinum with one 5.51-carat emerald-cut diamond and diamonds (total weight of diamonds is 7.8 carats); one of a kind; Bridal Couture. POA.

Engagement Ring by Harry Winston in platinum with one 1.51-carat marquise-cut diamond and diamonds (total weight of diamonds is 3.5 carats); one of a kind; Bridal Couture. POA.

Engagement Ring by Harry Winston in platinum with one 5.02-carat oval-shaped diamond and diamonds (total weight of diamonds is 5.6 carats); one of a kind; Bridal Couture. POA.

Engagement Ring by Harry Winston in platinum with one 5.70-carat pear-shaped diamond and diamonds (total weight of diamonds is 6.40 carats); one of a kind; Bridal Couture. POA.

Engagement Ring by Harry Winston in platinum with one 3.20-carat round brilliant-cut diamond and diamonds (total weight of diamonds is 4.50 carats); one of a kind; Bridal Couture. POA.

I find collaborations between high jewellers and artists, or high jewellers and invited jewellery designers, to be very exciting. Of course, not all ventures turn out to be a success, and just a few can qualify as game changers, from time to time. Well, the Sotheby’s Diamonds by Lily Gabriella capsule collection of nine pieces is one those: a brilliant partnership between a storied house with access to only the best crop of diamonds, and a talented young Brazilian jewellery design-er, whose own fine jewellery brand is sought-af-ter by discerning jewellery lovers. With a pas-sion for architecture and fine arts, Lily Gabriella is able to bring a different perspective to the world of exceptional diamonds; a way of display-ing large rare stones (mostly yellow diamonds) in refreshing, innovative ways. For the occa-sion, Sotheby’s Diamonds also partnered with Diacore, world-leading specialists in sourcing, cutting and polishing extraordinary diamonds.

The collection has been recently exhibited in London and as part of the Impressionist, Modern and Contemporary Art sales. Then it will be showcased in Hong Kong at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from 29 March until 2 April.


Polytope Earrings in 18K white and yellow gold set with two D colour, Internally Flawless 1.54-carat round-brilliant cut diamonds surrounded by yellow and white pavé-set diamonds; Ode to Yellow, Sotheby’s Diamonds by Lily Gabriella collection. POA.

The Solar Cuff in 18K yellow gold with ajouré detailing and set with one 21.15-carat oval-cut yellow diamond at its centre, surrounded by white and yellow sapphires. Ode to Yellow, Sotheby’s Diamonds by Lily Gabriella collection. POA.

www.sothebysdiamonds.com

Architectural icons from the Art Deco era, mas-terpieces from the Abstract Art movement or the Japanese Edo period, are various sources of in-spiration that are sympathetically, though not lit-erally, incorporated in each of nine unique and distinct creations. The Halcyon Earrings are a tribute to the Chrysler Building, where two cush-ion-cut yellow diamonds are nestled in the upper part of a slightly curved leaf-shaped design. The latter is rhodium-plated which sheds dark tones that enhance the micro-pavé of white diamonds positioned in decreasing sizes. The Solar Cuff is reminiscent of the Art Deco sunrise motif and in spectacular fashion, a large oval-cut diamond seem to float inside the sapphire-paved crescent of the cuff. Moreover, the sapphires are colour graded from white (at the base) to sun-kissed yellow (as the eye progresses to the top edges). Besides the superb ajouré detailing inside the cuff is a thing to admire in its own right. The exquisite Honeycomb Ring “echoes the natural geometric structures in the work of Santiago Calatrava and Jean Nouvel’s building for the Louvre Abu Dhabi”, Lily Gabriella explains, whereas the Holi Earrings, although inspired by the colours of the Hindu Holi festival and Kandinsky’s Deepened Impulse (1928), are a free-flowing composition. A stun-ning artistic mash-up that offer two cushion-cut yellow diamonds the chance to be part of an in-toxicating infinity looping symbol. All of the nine are heirlooms in the making with the Holi ear-rings instilling some reinvigorating playfulness.


www.sothebysdiamonds.com

The Holi Earrings in 18K rose gold and enamel set with one 5.01-carat Fancy Yellow and one 5.03-carat Fancy Light Yellow diamonds, pink sapphires and white diamonds; Ode to Yellow, Sotheby’s Diamonds by Lily Gabriella collection. POA.

Infinitas Ring in 18K rose gold set with a swirl of pave-set light green grossular garnet around a magnificent 6.78-carat Fancy Intense Pink radiant-cut diamond; Ode to Yellow, Sotheby’s Diamonds by Lily Gabriella collection. POA.

Halcyon Earrings in 18K blackened gold set with one 3.53-carat Fancy Yellow and one 3.03-carat Fancy Light Yellow radiant-cut diamonds in a dramatic setting of pavé-set diamonds; Ode to Yellow, Sotheby’s Diamonds by Lily Gabriella collection. POA.


What goes on inside Wallace Chan’s mind is anyone’s guess and possibly one of the most exciting journeys to experience. When he is not working on game changing innova-tions (The Wallace Chan Porcelain – as fea-tured in our January Notes on an Obsession), his imagination seems to travel through lay-ers of the subconscious and back. One on-ly has to look at his phantasmagorical work to get a sense of the master’s extraordinary thought process. Among the marvels that he will present at TEFAF Maastricht this March (he is a recurring participant of the fair since 2016), two are previewed here and admiring their poetic ingenuity, it once again augurs well for what will be exhibited. For a start, the Hera Parure, which fully celebrates the symbolism of the peacock, has the baffling

power of an apparition. Is it real? The styl-ised peacock looks like a prescient being, a distant cousin of the mystical phoenix, its head nestled inside a giant feather, whose each barb is a feat of fluidity. The gem-pav-ing is quite dazzling and so precise in its de-piction of iridescence that there is no escap-ing the comparison with miniature painting. The harlequin pattern of the gorgeous black opal (which can be detached and worn as a ring) mirrors the umpteen various shades of the peacock’s robe. Made entirely of The Wallace Chan Porcelain (near indestructible porcelain) and titanium (light and robust), Hera’s stance has all the attributes of a deity. (Wallace Chan, booth 145 TEFAF Maastricht 2019 edition is where you can see these piec-es and other works).

www.wallace-chan.com

Hera Transformable Parure (brooch with detachable ring) in titanium and The Wallace Chan Porcelain set with Padparadscha sapphires, black opal, pearls, emeralds, aquamarines, tsavorite garnets, yellow diamonds, and diamonds. POA.


Another mesmerising rendition is the Butterfly Nebula Pair of Brooches, which helps us see how Mr Chan’s imagination revels in explor-ing far away worlds of his own making, yet imbued with earthly spiritual notions. “Lying about 4000 light-years away from Earth is the wildest dream fantasised under the light of stars, fulfilled by the incomprehensible won-ders of the universe: Butterfly Nebula. From this hourglass-shaped cloud of interstellar gas and dust, a pair of spectacular butterflies emerge with dainty wings of near-perfect symmetry. They float through the night sky, exploring the

mystical galaxies”, Mr Chan muses. These out-er space creatures look so benevolent that one is drawn to their cosmos. Their graceful dance, the pacifying palette of pastel pink, yellow and green from their gossamer-like wings, the elongated delicate antennas that seem to be their way of communicating with each other…all point to advanced beings who have mastered the art of companionship, and freely move through the wide expanse of the universe. (Wallace Chan, booth 145 TEFAF Maastricht 2019 edition is where you can see these pieces and other works).

www.wallace-chan.com

Butterfly Nebula Pair of Brooches both in titanium set with (left) one 2.01-carat yellow diamond, yellow diamonds, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires, amethysts and rubies; (right) one 2.32-carat yellow diamond, yellow diamonds, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires and rubies. POA.

Nothing really tops visiting Glenn Spiro’s London showroom, his display at Harrods in the Fine Jewellery Room, or the one at Bergdorff Goodman in the Fine Watches and Jewellery room, or ultimately his booth at TEFAF Maastricht. This year will be his second participation in the prestigious Maastricht fair and one can only wonder why it did not start earlier as it is the perfect fit. For the occasion, G is presenting modern renditions as well as pieces from the Materials from the Old World, the Antique Collection (modern creations in-corporating antique / ancient artefacts), a double approach that only makes sense for TEFAF Maastricht is “widely regarded as the

world’s premier fair for fine art, antiques and design”, the TEFAF team says. A pair of ban-gles feature Mesopotamian carnelian arrow-head shaped elements dating from the 1st Millennium BC, that are set with white rose-cut diamonds, coral beads and 18K yellow gold. More rare carnelian components have been used for a necklace in 18K yellow gold set with nine fancy-shaped carnelian circa 1st Millennium B.C. Such museum-quality mar-vels could only be set with the very best: 21 cabochon no heat Burma rubies that are GRS certificated. (G, booth 142 TEFAF Maastricht 2019 edition is where you can see these piec-es and other works).


www.glennspiro.com

One pair of earrings in 18K white gold set with one 5.39-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA certified), one 6.03-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA Certified), 2 zirconium free form (8.10cts) and 127 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

A pair of historical and extremely rare Carnelian Bangles featuring Mesopotamian carnelian arrowhead-shaped elements dating from the 1st Millennium BC, together with white rose-cut diamonds, coral beads and 18K yellow gold. One bangle in 18K yellow gold set with 2 arrowhead-shaped carnelian (49.40cts), 11 square rose-cut diamonds (2.32cts), 13 semi-precious stones (2.37cts) and 223 round diamonds (0.58ct); the other also in 18K yellow gold set with 2 arrowhead-shaped carnelian (53.05cts), 11 square rose-cut diamonds (2.11cts), 13 semi-precious stones (3.94cts) and 245 round diamonds (0.58cts); The Antique Collection. POA.

One antique Necklace in 18K yellow gold set with 9 fancy-shaped carnelian (251.62cts - circa 1st millennium B.C), 21 cabochon Burma rubies (no heat, grs certificate, weighing 89.16cts), 2 fancy-shaped Burma rubies (no heat, grs certificate, weighing 6.31cts), one cabochon ruby (no heat, grs certificate, weighing 1.22cts), 730 round yellow diamonds (8.80cts) and 18 round rubies (2.51cts); The Antique Collection. POA.

One Pair of Earrings in 18K yellow gold set with 34 round orangey brown diamonds (17.09cts), 2 spiral shells (17.76cts), 92 round fancy brown and yellow diamonds (0.97ct), 400 round yellow sapphires (2.18cts), and 58 round white diamonds; The Antique Collection. POA.

www.glennspiro.com

And when you think that nothing can top what you have just seen, here come more exceptional wonders. In a way, G is a com-pilation of pieces that cannot rival each other. Each is the perfect association of aspirational design and rarity. Just look at this extraordinary ring set with one 40.51-carat D Internally Flawless, Type IIA (certified by International GIA & GUBELIN Laboratories) diamond. I mean, you do not often see one of these, and the delicately simple paved band is just what this large stone needs. It also takes great talent to make all white diamond designs expres-sive as seen in the ravishing cuff that fea-tures wave-like rows of cushion-shaped white diamonds, that are interspaced by finer micro-paved waves. Lastly, a thing that every woman should have in her jew-ellery box, the diamond pendant earrings. However, it comes with a twist: free-form zirconium from which the jaw-dropping pear-shaped flawless diamond hangs. It is simple, pure and blissful. (G, booth 142 TEFAF Maastricht 2019 edition is where you can see these pieces and other works).


www.glennspiro.com

One Highly Important and Very Rare Ring in 18K white gold set with one 40.51-carat DF flawless, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (certified by international GIA & Gübelin laboratories), 32 brilliant-cut diamonds and one rose-cut diamond. POA.

One Highly Important Bangle in titanium set with 42 cushion-shaped diamonds (47.66cts), 2 cushion-shaped diamonds (1ct G / VS2 and 1.03cts / D – internally flawless), 452 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.51cts), and 1,196 single-cut diamonds (7.59cts). POA.


Timelessness is a given quality for most high jew-els, but only time can reveal if this characteris-tic actually sticks. Purveyors of antique jewellery, such as the NY-based A La Vieille Russie, are mas-ters at identifying pieces that succeed in passing the test of time. For the 2019 edition of TEFAF Maastricht, A La Vieille Russie is exhibiting some of their best recent acquisitions that despite their age, appear deceptively modern. Two rings are not to be missed: one is an antique cushion cut yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring signed Cartier Paris and the other an early 20th-centu-ry cabochon sapphire and diamond cluster ring, a rare piece produced earlier than c.1910 boasting a Cartier signature. A look at the ingenious details supporting the central gems, and the thought oc-curs that all great designs have somehow been made before, as seen in these two beauties. (A La Vieille Russie, booth 110 TEFAF Maastricht 2019 edition is where you can see these pieces and oth-er works from Tiffany & Co., Mauboussin, Dunhill & Company, and Fabergé among others).


www.alvr.com


An antique cushion-cut yellow sapphire and diamond Cluster Ring by Cartier, Paris. The 16.61-carat Ceylon sapphire claw is surrounded by diamond baguettes, mounted in platinum and gold, and signed Cartier Paris. POA.

Early 20th-century cabochon sapphire and diamond Cluster Ring by Cartier, Paris c.1910. The oval Burma sapphire is set within an eye-shaped cluster of diamonds inset with a calibré sapphire line detail, mounted in platinum, signature Cartier. POA.

Sapphire, diamond, onyx and platinum Lady’s

Watch. The watch face is cut from a single sapphire.

American, c. 1925. POA.

Another stunning set is the highly decorative necklace and matching earrings parure de-signed by English jewellery designer Dorrie Nossiter (1893–1977). Delving into the vaults of antique jewellery experts is like travelling through the history of jewellery making as a whole: “Dorrie Nossiter was working in the Arts and Crafts movement. Her work is characterized by floral motifs with curved lines and colourful gemstones. She studied at the Municipal School of Art in Birmingham from 1910-1914. She exhib-ited at London’s Walker Galleries from 1935-1939 and was among four women featured”, the A

La Vieille Russie team explains. The cluster of citrines, aquamarines, amethysts, garnets, and sapphires is a rich composition, whose delicate side is underlined by natural pearls. Also, and so that the necklace does not feel too ‘heavy’, it is composed of several ‘gem-set blocks’ af-fixed by fine chains to each other; since for timeless jewellery, their design has always had the wearer in mind. (A La Vieille Russie, booth 110 TEFAF Maastricht 2019 is where you can see these pieces and other works from Tiffany & Co., Mauboussin, Dunhill & Company, and Fabergé among others).


www.alvr.com


Necklace (left) and matching Earrings (right) designed by English jewellery designer, Dorrie Nossiter (1893–1977). The pieces are comprised of natural seed pearls and mixed gems, including citrine, aquamarine, topaz, and alexandrite, set in gold and gilded silver with a removable brooch/pendant. POA.

Old Mine Diamond Bee Brooch set in silver and gold, the main body set

with a large diamond. English, c.1885. POA.

notes on an obsession - amazon web services · march 2019 notes on an obsession another mesmerising...

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