NOTES ON THE 1821 PAlTERN MUSICIAN'S COATEE

Figure 1-Front View of the Cooiee Figure 2 C i d e View of the Coatee

The 1821 pattern U. S. Infantry musician's coatee in the collections of the Ohio Historical Society was discussed by Member Stephen Osman in a recent issue of MC&H (XXXII, No. 2, 78-81). Although the cov- erage in that article was thorough, a more detailed examination of the cut and construction of this impor- tant piece of American military material culture is in order.

For the most part, the coatee conforms closely to the printed regulations of 1821.1 The use of narrow width tape in edging the collar was one exception; another was in the width of the collar, which is only 3% inches in the specimen, as opposed to the 4 inches expressed in the regulations.

The coatee is of scarlet broadcloth of a coarse texture and is in an excellent state of preservation. It has evidently seen usage: the armholes are stained from perspiration and a portion of the back seam near the neck has been patched where worn through by a small square of the same scarlet broadcloth. The collar and breast are lined with the same material as the body of the coatee; sleeves and skirts are lined with white muslin, now almost dirty yellow in shade. Small half- moon-shaped reinforcements of scarlet cloth are lo- cated beneath the armholes. The remainder of the coatee is unlined.

Figure 4-Detail of the cafl. Note the regulation white metal button with the letter '1" within the shield of the eagle. The cuff is left open or "slit" for 145 inches along the back seam.

Figure 3-Rear View of the Coatee

All edges and seams visible on the exterior of the body are turned, with the exception of the shoulder straps and wings, which are left unfittIshed or "raw." The seams inside the coatee are also raw. The lining is turned and whipstitched to the broadcloth. All other visible stitching appears to be of the "in and out stab" style.

The pocket flaps are not functional and are sewn down. The true pockets are located in the lining of the skirts. They are of the horizontal "welted" style and measure 6% inches across. The side pleats of the skirts are sewn down at both the top and bottom. They were almost certainly ornamental, as the skirt lining covers and obscures them. In addition, the shanks of the top and bottom pleat buttons pierce through and join the front and rear edges of the pleats together permanently.

AU but three of the original buttons are still sewn Figure 5-The Lining of the Coatee Skirts. The shanks

to the coatee; two of the missing buttons were once of the top and bottom pleat buttons me visible.

Figure 6-Interior of the Coatee Body. Note the reinforcements at the armholes, the repair patch near the collar, and the Schuykill Arsenal marks on the sleeve lining.

Figure 7-Pattern Sketch of the Coatee by H. Charles McBarron.

located on the top buttonholes of the wllar and the third at the termination of the right skirt pleat.

The wings (including the shoulder straps) are constructed from two layers of scarlet broadcloth. The actual wing is built up with some sort of padding between the two layers of cloth. Along its edge a cres- cent-shaped strip of white worsted pile is whipstitched down.

The coatee is trimmed with !4 inch worsted tape. All of the tape is white and of a ribbed pattern. The tape is doubled at the "blind" or false buttonholes located on collar, breast, pocket flaps and cuffs; ends of the holes are "squared." The buttonholes on the collar are 5 inches long. Those on the breast are slightly herring-bone in form, ranging from 5% inches at the top holes to 3% inches in length at the bottom holes. This is in minor variation from those prescribed for officers in the printed regulations, which stated that the holes at the top were to extend "to the seam of the

sleeve" and to be "not more than three inches long" at the bottom holes.2

The author wishes to express his appreciation to Company Fellow H. C. McBarron for his pattern sketch of the coatee.

James L. Kochan 1.-General Regulations for the Army; or. Military Institutes.

Philadelphia, 1821, pp. 154162.

Figure I-Front View of the Cootee. Figure 2--Side View of the Coatee. Figure 3-Rear View o f the Coatee.

Figure 4-Detail of the cuff. Note the regulatton white metal infantry button with the letter "I' within the shleld o f the eagle. The cuff is left open or ''slit" for V% inches along the back seam. Figure 51nter ior of the Coatee Body. Note the erinjotco- ments at the armholes, the repair patch near the collar, and the Schuykill Arsenal markings on the sleeve lining. Figure 6-The Lining of the Coatee Skirts. The shanks of the top and bottom pleat buttons are visible. Figure 7-Pattern Sketch o f the Coatee by H. Charles McBarron

NOTES ON OHIO VOLUNTEER UNIFORMS, 1861

At the outbreak of the Civil War, Ohio intended to clothe her volunteer troops in uniforms patterned "so near that of the regular army, that no change would be required on going into the U. S. service." How- ever, it was designed that some distinction be preserv- ed and it was recommended that the state coat of arms be stamped on the buttons and cap plates of the uni- forms being made. The waste in equipping the rapidly- growing number of recruits did not fit this plan and instead all uniforms were to be made with "U. S. Regulation" buttons, according to branch of service.1

Until 1862 when the Federal government took over the job of supplying uniforms for Ohio's troops, the state arranged to clothe her forces by contracts with private firms, both within and outside the state. All uniforms were to be "thoroughly well made and trimmed and in all respects to conform to Regula- tions." Ohio had gone so far as to contract for and purchase 8000 regulation infantry frock coats, complete with brass shoulder scales, before a lack of sufficient quantities of blue cloth and a rising demand for supply prevented any such further extravagant plans of uniform supply.2

It was decided instead to clothe the Ohio infantry regiments in simpler uniforms consisting of blue flannel blouses and sky blue kersey trousers. Blue fatigue caps with either cotton cape amj covers (Havelocks) or glazed covers and black felt hats were the standard headgear. Shirts were to be of red or grey flannel. Ar- tillery and cavalry were issued dark blue cloth shell jackets with the usual branch of service distinctions and dark blue reenforced trousers. Hats were to be the headgear of the mounted troops and their overcoats were of sky blue kersey.8

Although Ohio was able to furnish her first regi- ments of cavalry and light artillery with the p d b e d uniforms for mountd troops, a temporary shortage in supply of blue flannel and sky blue kersey led the state to adopt stopgap measures in order to supply her in- fantry regiments in the field. Overcoats were made of black and grey cloth in addition to sky Hue jersey. Trousers were of sky blue, grey striped, and grey cloth. Finally over 5000 infantry shell jackets of cadet grey cloth were made and issued to regiments in need of uniform CI*~.~