nzac australia summer 2014

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Feature Next Issue DENALI - King of Alaska GEAR REVIEW Jetboil Stove Black Diamond ATC CLIMBING ROUTES Tom Thumb, Multi Pitch Rock Climb in the Blue Mountains, NSW. TECHNICAL TIPS Climbing Ropes REGULAR SECTIONS Upcoming Trip Program Book Review Plus Heaps More Ice Climbing special AUSTRALIA SECTION Summer 2014

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Page 1: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Feature

Next Issue

DENALI - King of Alaska

GEAR REVIEWJetboil StoveBlack Diamond ATC

CLIMBING ROUTESTom Thumb, Multi Pitch Rock Climb in the Blue Mountains, NSW.

TECHNICAL TIPSClimbing Ropes

REGULAR SECTIONSUpcoming Trip ProgramBook Review Plus Heaps More

Ice Climbing special

AUSTRALIA SECTIONSummer 2014

Page 2: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

NZAC - AustrAliA seCtioN

editor

Brad Jackson / Terry Cole

seCtioN ChAirmAN

Terry Cole

ViCe ChAirmAN

Matt Nielsen

Commitee members

James RothJason RobertsonJosh HollowayQuentin Hanich

Chairman’s Chatwith Terry Cole

NZAC Australian section commitee profile - Vice Chair Matthew Nielsen

Book Review

Feature ArticleDenali, King of Alaska

Gear Review

Climbing Route

2

3

WELCOME TO THE SUMMER 2014 NZAC - AUSSIE NEWSLETTER

Since taking over the role as Chairman I have strived to make this a better section for all its members. I made a commitment to you all that I would reunite all of our forgotten members back into one section and be proactive in having a more active section and with the support of my fellow committee members I believe that we are starting to achieve this. We have made lots of changes some administration changes and some that members will see directly. Two notable changes are the great new section newsletter and the new upcoming section trip program. Both changes are already in full swing and been very well supported by you the members who are keen to see a strong trip program as well as read up on all sorts of climbing info.

On the financial front the section is strong financially and we recently donated $5,000 back to NZAC head office to help fund future projects. We have plans to run a few training courses in the future which will be subsidised for members.

Social media has been an area that I have been keen to develop and use more to contact members and to share information. The section has a facebook page that is slowly becoming more active. We also are using the NZAC Aus section webpage and the main NZAC website which has been upgraded and now has great forum’s, climbing routes and much more. I encourage you all to have a look and support our main club.

Still on the social media space I have closed down the old, outdated and unused aussie mountaineers yahoo group. The reason that it was closed was the recently updated NZAC main website now has a forum space which it never did before that is why the yahoo groups for each section were originally formed. The forum is excellent and is broken up into sections such as Find a buddy, Gear for sale, Route info. The forum is very active and I was surprised just how widely used it is. You can post that you are looking for a

partner in the Find a buddy section and within a day you can get replies and find a partner very easy in most cases you will get to choice of a few. I urge you all to check out the forum and us it as we are only a section within a club and I try to support the main club as much as I can. To find the forum go to the main NZAC website and click on “The Climber” tab then “Discuss” then “View forums” then you will see all the sections.

Recently I have had the pleasure of receiving alot of your emails asking for all sorts of information which I enjoy answering and helping out as much as I can. I have also had the opportunity of getting to meet some of the members who I serve which has been really rewarding for me. I would like to apologize if I am delayed in replying to you. I go away climbing alot and also have a house and job and do this role voluntarily. I try to catch up on all your questions as soon as I can so thank you for your patience as there is a promise to you that I make that is that I will always reply to you and will never let you down as I took on this role to lead this section and I am proud to lead by example. Please feel free to e-mail me the address is on the back page and I am only to happy to help you out.

I hope to see some of you out there climbing soon, so until then take care and safe climbing Terry Cole Chairman

Chairman’s Chat

Dear fellow Aussie Mountaineers

NZAC Australian Section committee profile

Vice Chairman - Matthew Nielsen

I started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym in Michigan, USA in 1994 when I was just finishing up university; it was such a new, cutting edge thing back then! Michigan being a very flat part of the world, indoor rock climbing planted the seed for mountaineering so I moved to Oregon, USA seeking to fuel this passion. I lived at the base of the Cascade Range for over 8 years and summited almost all of the major peaks i.e. Hood, Jefferson, North Sister, Baker etc.

I did backpacking, cross country skiing, rock climbing, mountain biking, mountaineering, and back country telemark skiing. During this time I served as board member of The Cascade Mountaineers, a small local climbing club established to facilitate climbing in the local area.

In 2000 I did a trek from Cho-Oyu Advanced Base Camp to Everest Base Camp North. This trip really put the world in perspective. For me the people and the culture were the most rewarding part of the experi-ence.

In 2002, I know my accent would have you think otherwise, I moved to Australia. In about 2005 I settled in Melbourne and become active in the Australian Section of the NZAC. I have served in some capacity on the section committee since 2006. Injuries, family commitments, and work have tied me down a bit but I still try to get out as often as I can.

In 2007 I spent two weeks in the NZ Southern Alps climbing the Minarets and several other lesser peaks in the neighbourhood. As of late mountain biking is the easy outlet followed by trips to Arapiles that are too few and far and few between.

Upcoming Section Trips

Next Issue

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Technical Tips

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Page 3: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

EXTREME ALPINISM, climbing light, fast and high.

Out of all the mountaineering books on my bookself this is my favourite book. Mark Twight is one of he most renowned alpinist in the United States. He has many first hard climbs to he’s credit. He has learnt the skill and benefits of going light and fast and gives you he’s reasoning why. A well written book with some great short stories sure to get your heart racing.

Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers.Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world’s most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.

A must have book for all the serious alpinists out there. Available from Amazon.com

Thank you

Thank you to our three corporate supporters of the NZAC Expedition Capital Fund for their donations to date. We encourage members to continue supporting these companies to help us grow this fund for the Expeditions of the future.https://alpineclub.org.nz/donation/expedition-capital-fund

Book Review

Expedition Capital Fund – supporters

Cover Photo

The Kahiltna Peaks with Foraker in the distance, from the S Buttress of Denali

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Page 4: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Denali - the kiNg of AlAskA the highest mouNtAiN iN North AmeriCA, deNAli hAs beeN the goAl of AspiriNg high Altitude Climbers siNCe it wAs first Climbed iN 1913. its reputAtioN As A highly CoVeted summit deriVes from its loCAtioN NeAr the ArCtiC CirCle ANd the pACifiC oCeAN (gulf of AlAskA) giViNg it some of the most feroCious weAther iN the world. beCAuse of its Notorious weAther ANd eAse of ACCess, some Climbers use deNAli As A trAiNiNg grouNd for ClimbiNg the 8,000 meter peAks of the himAlAyA ANd for exteNded expeditioNs iN the ArCtiC or ANtArCtiC. deNAli offers oNe of the world’s greAtest expeditioN ChAlleNges. its greAt height AboVe the AlAskAN plAiN mAke it A seVere test of persoNAl streNgth, teAm work, ANd logistiCs. No peAk iN the world hAs greAter relief: deNAli rises 5,180 meters AboVe its surrouNdiNg plAiN, kilimANjAro 4,250 metres, ANd eVerest 4,000 metres. VertiCAl eleVAtioN gAiN oN eVerest from the NormAl bAse CAmp for the south Col route is 3,350 metres; from the lANdiNg spot oN the kAhiltNA glACier deNAli’s summit rises ANother 4,000 metres. it hosts A Number of routes the most populAr beiNg the west buttress ANd it is Also home to the greAt AlAskAN testpieCe the CAssiN ridge. weAther CAN ChANge oN deNAli iN the bliNk of AN eye so Come prepAred for eVerythiNg.

by - Terry Cole

Denali National Park, Alaska with Denali standing tall as King!

Feature

Denali “Mt McKinley” from the East side looking up the Muldrow glacier route

Main routes on Denali

Route Alaska Grade

Min total time Terrain Descent

route Start / Finish

West Buttress 2+ 15 days Non technical, mod-erate steep snow

West Buttress Kahiltna Base Camp

Kartsens Ridge / Muldrow Glacier 3 20 days Non technical, steep snow

Muldrow Glacier

Muldrow Glacier Base Camp

West Rib 4 15 daysTechnical, mod steep

snow mixed snow and rock

West Buttress Kahiltna Base Camp

Cassin Ridge 5 16 days Technical, steep rock, snow and ice

West Buttress Kahiltna Base Camp

Mountain DENALI (MT McKinley)

Location Alaska, US North America

Elevation 6,194 mtr’s / 20,320 ft

Activities Mountaineering, Mixed climbing, Skiing

Main Season May - June

Brad Jackson 2011

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Page 5: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Red Tape

Getting there

Sample itinerary West Buttress

When to climb

Sample gear list

Day 1: Land at Base Camp 2,195 m (7,200 ft)Day 2: Rest day to organize gear and practice crevasse rescueDay 3: Move to 2,375 mtr (7,800 ft) campDay 4: Move to 2,900 mtr (9,500 ft) campDay 5: Move to 3,350 mtr (11,000 ft) campDay 6: Rest dayDay 7: Ferry loads to 4,325 mtr (14,200 ft) camp, return to 3,350 mtr (11,000 ft)Day 8: Move to 4,325 mtr (14,200 ft) campDay 9: Rest dayDay10: Ferry loads to 5,245 mtr (17,200 ft) camp, return to 4,325 mtr’s (14,200 ft)Day 11: Rest dayDay 12: Move to 5,245 mtr (17,200 ft) campDay 13: Summit day 6,194 mtr’s (20,320 ft)Day 14: Descend to 3,350 mtr (11,000 ft) campDay 15: Descend to base camp, fly out

Keep in mind that this itinerary does not factor in bad weather days when you will be tent-bound which can be around 7 days. Itineraries are also adjusted according to how quickly members of a team acclimatize to the altitude.

You wont be alone on the popular West Buttress route

Bivy on the high up on the Cassin Ridge rock band

Showing the 3 main West side routes in red from the Kahiltna Base Camp, West Buttress, West Rib & Cassin Ridge

The major international airport in Alaska is at Anchorage. The airport is located about 6 1/2 km’s south of the city proper. Anyone not from Alaska is better off flying to Anchorage for an attempt on Denali.

From the Anchorage airport, it is roughly a two hour drive to Talkeetna (Talkeetna is a small town and the main staging area for climbing most routes on Denali and the Alaska Range in general). Limited supplies and equipment are available in Talkeetna, so it is best to get most of your shopping done in Anchorage before heading out. Two main retailers in Anchorage are, Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking (alaskamountaineering.com) & REI (rei.com). Anchorage accomodation, I found the Best Western to be affordable, clean, and convenient. Best Western Golden Lion Hotel (907) 561-1522 book.bestwestern.com

Additional provisions can be got from AMS Mountain Shop F street, Talkeetna (907) 7331016

Climbing routes on the south side of McKinley require that you take a ski plane from Talkeetna to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. The same services can also arrange to fly you from Anchorage to Talkeetna for an extra charge.

Denali Overland Transportation(800) 651-5221www.denalioverland.com

Talkeetna Taxi(907) 355-TAXIwww.talkeetnataxi.com

Alaska Railroad(907) 265-2494www.akrr.com

Swiss-Alaska Inn (907) 733-2424swissalaska.com

Meandering Moose Lodging (907) 733-1000meandering-moose-lodging.com

Talkeetna Hostel(907) [email protected]

Transport to Talkeetna, you can go either go road or by train.

Upon arrival in Talkeetna, recommended accomodations include the following:

Fly Denali(907) 733-7768www.flydenali.com

K-2 Aviation(907) 733-2291www.flyk2.com

Sheldon Air Service, (907) 733-2321www.sheldonairservice.com

Due to the large size of the gear list needed refer to the American Alpine Institute website for a full gear list in pdf (as of Jan 2014)

http://www.alpineinstitute.com/media/167932/west_buttress_personal_equipment_list.pdf

Permits

Mountaineers attempting a climb of Mt. McKinley must register with the Talkeetna Ranger station at least 60 days prior to their start date. A Mountaineering Special Use Fee of $350 is payable for each expedition member.

Clean Mountain Canisters (CMCs)

The CMC is a portable toilet designed to address Denali’s remote, rugged environment and the unique logistical challenges presented by a 3-week long expedition. They are lightweight, convenient, durable and reusable. The National Park Service has installed outhouses for public use at Kahiltna Basecamp and 14,200 feet on the West Buttress of Denali.

Fuel

White gas & butane canisters are available in Talkeetna. Air service operators supply white gas in bulk to the Kahiltna Base Camp. Fuel cans distributed from the Kahiltna Basecamp will be marked with the expedition’s permit number.

Rescue

The National Park Service does not have a policy to charge climbers for genuine rescues, however, any hospital, air ambulance or other associated costs after leaving the mountain are the sole responsibility of the climber. Mobile phones work well above 4,325 mtr’s (14,200 ft). FRS (Family Radio Service) radios are recommended for on-mountain communication. FRS channel 1 is monitored for emergencies.

On top of the West Buttress looking back down

The normal climbing season is from late-April to mid-July with the most popular period from mid-May to late-June.

In general, the earlier you climb, the colder it will be high up on the mountain and the later you climb, the sloppier conditions will be on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. Later in the season, many climbers opt to travel on the lower mountain during the evening hours when the snow is relatively firm.

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Page 6: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Gear Reviews

AS PART OF OUR REGULAR GEAR REVIEW SECTION THIS SUMMER WE WILL BE LOOKING AT THE JETBOIL STOVE COOKING SYSTEM AND THE BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE BELAY DEVICE.

BD ATC GuideJetboil Stove

Description

An all-in-one design, combining burner and cooking vessel in one

compact unit. Everything you need is stacked and

stored inside the 1.0 liter cooking cup.

The versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers complete belay and

rappel functions and can be used with a variety of

rope sizes.

Tech Spec’s 1ltr capacity, 400 gms, Boil time about 3 minutes

88 gms, Handles ropes 7.7mm - 11mm

Best Use High altitude expeditions, Multi day climbs

Multi pitch trad climbing, Ice climbing

Pro’sSuper efficient, Compact,

Spare companion cup available without stove

Versitile, Auto-locking function, Bring 2 climbers

up at once, Friction control

Con’s Hard to simmer, Unstable without stand None

Rating out of 5

Summary

I have used a Jetboil for about 5 years now and

never leave home without it. I am always amazed at just how efficient these

new breed of stoves are. Love how the stove and gas fit into the pot.

Now comes in a range of larger pot sizes, great for

melting snow on those high mountain climbs or when you are cooking up a feast

for two or more.

Awesome bit of kit. A must have. How do you make the most popular

belay device in the world even better? You give it

an extra loop that lets you belay your second directly

from the anchor, with auto-locking capability, and then you machine out every last gram of

unneeded material and call it the Black Diamond ATC

Guide.

Article by - Terry Cole

www.climbinganchors.com.au Alan

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Ph: 02 6651 5510 Unit 5, 8-10 Industrial Drive, Coffs Harbour, NSW 2450

• Massive range of gear and brands • Excellent advice • Value for money • Fast Shipping • Family Business – Personal Service

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Page 7: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Multi-pitch rock climb in the Blue Mountains, NSW

DescriptionAn easy day out in an adventurous location. This climb uses mainly bolts for protection (bring brackets) and a few camming devices. Best accessed from the top via abseil. Well suited to groups of three. Pitches are split to allow reasonable communication. The walk each way is about 1¼ hours and is quite pleasant.

Directions

Route

Just before Leura turn right from the Great Western Highway onto Mt Hay Road. Drive to the Fortress Ridge turn off on the left (sign posted). There is a locked gate. Leave car here and walk 25 minutes or ride 15 minutes to end of road. Walk out along the ridge till almost the end and then veer right onto the Canyon exit track. (Another 40 minutes). Go a few hundred metres slightly downwards, then along the base of a small cliffline. Where the track opens to the main valley, put on your harness and leave the canyon track, skirting left around the point. Once you leave the track, be careful when approaching the cliff edge as it is easy to slip or trip-over with a potentially fatal slide.

P1 (18m, 8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall.P2 (40m, 12) Left of belay grunt onto wall. Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.P3 (16m, 9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend.)P4 (45m, 8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB.P5 (21m, 12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. Traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

Climb Tom Thumb

Type Multi-Pitch Trad climbing with bolted belay stations

Grade 13

Length 166 mtr’s

Entry Abseils

A fun trip in itself. (Note) all abseils have U bolts so the rope can be threaded straight through these.Abseil one (47m) Exciting as you go over the lip. Stop virtually at the end of the rope on the lower bushy ledge (5m below the cave ledge). Walk right 8m facing the cliff, through bushes to the u-bolt anchors.Abseil two (45m) Stop at the u-bolts just below the large bushy ledge.Abseil three (48m) Uses virtually the full rope to get you on large bushy ledge with trees. Walk right about 10m to start of climb. There is a small cairn in a slight corner. The first bolt should be visible about 3m up.

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Page 8: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Single Ropes

CONFUSED ABOUT SINGLE, DOUBLE AND TWIN ROPES. WHAT ARE THEY FOR ? WHAT DO THOSE ROPE SYMBOLS MEAN ? HOW TO USE THEM ? LETS LOOK AT THE 3 TYPES

Technicial Tips Climbing Ropes

Twin Ropes

Double Ropes

Not used as often as the single or double system, but for longer multi-pitch routes twin ropes can be very handy and is a favourite of mine for climbing steep ice. Twin ropes are great on steep waterfall ice climbs many ice climbers are fans, but can equally be good on the right straight trad multi ptich rock climb also. The main important difference with the Twin Rope System compared to the Double Rope System is that you clip both the twin ropes into the same piece of protection. This means that the two twin ropes will both go through each point of protection as opposed to the double ropes were you clip each double rope into a seperate piece of protection, dont get this confused as twin ropes are not rated to take a single strand fall but double ropes are rated to take a fall on only one strand. With the Twin Rope System, rope drag may be an issue as in a Single Rope System.

A big advantage as with double ropes is that a full rope length abseil can be made possible by tying the two twin ropes together. So with 60 mtr twin ropes, you can abseil 60 mtrs as opposed to a 60 mtr single rope which you can only abseil a maximun of 30 mtr’s. Twin Ropes are typically between 7-8 mm so are very light to carry.

The Double Rope System is also often used, probably because it is a more flexible system than the Single Rope System. With the Double Rope System, one can reduce or entirely cut out any rope drag. This is a major advantage as it contributes to the safety of the system.

The Double Rope System is often used in Traditional Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, and Ice Climbing. Double ropes are sometimes called “Half Ropes” and are the same thing.

The two Double Ropes are more practical to carry. The load of the two ropes can be divided equally between two people. When the two double ropes are tied together, then one can abseil the full rope length as opposed to a half rope length in a Single Rope System.

Compared to the Single Rope System, the Double Rope System is safer and more durable.

The Single Rope System is best used on single and multipitch routes whereby the protection is in one straight line, such as sport routes where the bolts are placed in a straight line or trad routes whereby the protection can be placed in a fairly straight line. If the protection is not in a straight line, more of a zigzag pattern, then there will be “rope drag”. Rope drag is the amount of friction the rope causes when running through the quickdraws/runners. This friction can be so large that in a fall, the protection is being pulled out side ways, causing the gear to become insecure. Rope Drag on a Single Rope System can be minimized by using longer extenders as these will make the line “straighter”. If the climbing route wanders alot and zig zag’s all the way up, a Double Rope System could be more practical.

When using a Single Rope, you can only abseil maximun half a rope length. So if you are using a 60-metre rope with a single rope system, then you can only abseil 30 metres. Single Ropes are cheaper than Double or Twin Ropes, but less durable as the rope drag is more . As a rule of thumb, most ropes with a thickness of 10-11 mm are Single Ropes.

www.australianclimbingfestival.com.auwww.facebook.com/AustralianClimbingFestival

[email protected]

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Page 9: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Upcoming section trips

Want to learn new skills for your next adventure into the mountains. Why not do a NZAC instruction course.

Check out the lastest courses on offer. They are professionally run and members receive discounted rates.

http://alpineclub.org.nz/national-instruction-courses

Upcoming NZAC courses

Trip type Ice ClimbingDate 22 - 24 August 2014Location Blue Lake, Snowy Mountains, NSWLeader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 8Trip info Come and climb Ice at blue Lake. Good intro for people wanting to learn the skills.

Will be camping up on main range near lake. Ropes, ice screws and trad gear supplied. Both beginners and experienced members welcome.

Trip type Alpine Mixed ClimbingDate 12 - 21 December 2014Location Upper Tasman Mt Cook NP, New ZealandLeader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 6Trip info Time allowed for plenty of climbing & bad weather days. Using Tasman Saddle hut as

a base come and climb many varied peaks in the area such as Mt Darwin , Mt Aylmer, Elle de Beaumont. Good intermediate grades of 2-3. Will be flying in/out.

Trip type Climbing ExpeditationDate Early May 2016Location Denali 6,194 mtrs (MT McKinley), Alaska, USARoute Karstens Ridge/Muldrow GlacierGrade Alaska Grade 3, Class 3-4Leader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 6Trip info Climb one of the worlds great mountains via its original but less popular Muldrow

glacier route. This is a private expeditation, taking expressions of interest only at early stage and final group will be selected on right commitment, personality and ability. Must complete a prior training climb. Are you up for this ultimate adventure.

For any further info on trips please contact the relevant trip leader directly or if you would like to put a trip on please email the section trip organizer at [email protected]

Trip type Multi Pitch Abseiling/CanyoningDate 15 - 16 Febuary 2014Location Kangangra Boyd NP, near Oberon, NSWLeader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 6Trip info 2 separate day trips, Kalang Falls & Danae Brook. Two awesome trips with big

multiple drops down side of spectacular multiple waterfalls and scenery to blow you away, ropes supplied. Come and see why this area is renowned for the biggest canyons. Kalang is a dry trip but wetsuits needed for Danea Brook.

Trip type Multi Pitch Trad Rock ClimbDate 3rd May 2014Location Blue Mountains NP, NSWLeader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 6Trip info Come and climb “Shandy” an airy wander up the west face of Boars Head, 3 star

climb, grade 8, 3 pitch, 73 metres. The multiple abseils down to the start is awesome itself. Don’t be fooled by the grade. Suited to people wanting to get into trad multi pitch climbing and learn the technics. Great fun day out not to be missed.

Trip type Multi Pitch Trad Rock ClimbDate 17th May 2014Location Blue Mountains NP, NSWLeader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 6Trip info Come and climb “Hocus Pocus” an easy classic at the famous Mt Piddington. 5 star

climb, grade 8, 3 pitch, 50 metres. Option to do harder climbs to 16 on same wall. Suited to both novices and more experienced climbers.

Trip type Multi Pitch Trad Rock ClimbDate 7 June 2014Location Blue Mountains NP, NSWLeader Terry Cole – [email protected]; 0455 255 662Party size limit 6Trip info Come and climb “Sweet Irish” an awesome climb at MT Boyce. 3 star climb, grade

10, 2 pitch, 50 metres. Option to do harder climbs on same wall such as “The Eyrie” a 4 star climb, grade 12 and “Another Mans Juliet” a 4 star climb, grade 15. Both are great routes and bluey classics. Suited to both novices and experienced climbers.

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Page 10: NZAC Australia Summer 2014

Mountaineering Insurance

What are our options for budding Australian Mountaineers and climbers clutching a passport. We look at the some of the best insures around. Will also be discusing the new NZAC Australian members insurance cover.

Ice Climbing Special

Everything you need to know about ice climbing, gear, techniques and destinations from our own back yard to overseas hot spots. So sharpen those crampons and grab your tools.

Upcoming Trips

We have some great varied section trips in the pipeline so check out the latest “Upcoming Trip List” which is on the NZAC Australian webpage, in the newsletter and e-mailed to members. If you would like to organise a trip with fellow members or

Next deadline for submissions Febuary 28th.

Have your say, let us know what you want to see in your newsletter or got a trip report that you would like published. Please e-mail us your ideas or submissions by the deadline.

Coming Next

All enquiries please contact us [email protected]

All enquiries please contact us [email protected]

Chisti making her way to 17k camp - Brad Jackson 2011

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