odesa

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

OdESa

InsideUpdated, comprehensive and the best city guide to the Pearl of the Black Sea

august - October 2012

9www.inyourpocket.com

9 772076 229104

Contents

3Contents

August - October 2012odesa.inyourpocket.com

Foreword 4Introduction to Odesa

Arrival & Transport 5Arriving, getting to the city, public transport

The Basics 8Customs, money, visas and more

Culture 11Events schedule

Where to stay 13Black Sea Jewel Hotels

Dining & Nightlife 20Restaurants, Cafs, Bars and Clubs

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

What to seeEssential Odesa 28Museums 30

Cosmopolitan Odesa 34 Bridging past and future

Mail & Phones 36How to call from Ukraine

Shopping 37Where to go shopping in Odesa

Business directory 38Banks, accountants and lawyers

Lifestyle directory 39Useful directory for staying in Odesa

Maps & IndexCity centre map 40 Street register/Index 42

Contents

House with Telamons. In the front corner of this building, two toga wearing Greeks are battling over a gigantic

Christmas tree ornament that seems to be holding up the entire structure.

4 Foreword

Odesa In Your Pocket odesa.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Editor & Writer Mike VoehringerLayout & Design Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd.Photos Odesa In Your PocketCover photo www.flickr.com

Sales & Circulation

General Manager Andrii CherniavskyiSalesKyiv Anna Striletska, +380 63 671 71 11LvivYuliya Kanyuka, +380 67 672 44 97OdesaLubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57

Odesa is Ukraines most charming city. Anyone who argues otherwise has never been to Odesa, has never strolled its captivating streets nor broken bread with its jovial citizens. As a tribute to its appeal, eight cities in the US, two in Canada and one in Brazil were named Odessa. Theres also Lake Odessa and even Odessa the planet somewhere out there in the cosmos. However, none of these tributes shine as vibrantly as Odesa, Ukraine: The Pearl of the Black Sea. Throughout its history Odesa has lured travellers, artists, poets, entrepreneurs and radical dissidents. The city was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, who realised that a port on the Black Sea was essential for the expansion of the Russian Empire. It was not erected on empty ground, however. Archaeological findings have revealed the existence of an ancient Greek settlement. The Kyivan Rus, the Golden Horde, Lithuanians, Ottomans, Tatars and Poles also made use of Odesas ideal location. The area ultimately fell into Russian hands during the Russo-Turkish War (1787-1791), and was later annexed under the Treaty of Jassy in 1792. Unlike many of its contemporary Russian cities, the con-struction of Odesa was well planned. Duc de Richelieu, a French dissident who served in the Russian Army and later became one of the citys first governors, is credited as the citys visionary designer. The city boomed throughout the 19th century, and attracted an incredibly diverse popula-tion. Russians, Ukrainians, Jews, Romanians, Greeks, Bulgarians, Albanians, Armenians, Italians, Frenchmen and Germans all added their own unique vision to the citys unparalleled character. By the beginning of the 20th cen-tury, Odesa had become the third most important city in the Russian Empire behind St. Petersburg and Moscow. It continued to thrive during Soviet industrial expansion, and by the mid 1950s had become one of the worlds richest grain harbours. Despite the incursion of industry, Odesa has remained an invaluable cultural centre and a place of blossoming appeal.Although Odesa has been a sun, surf and relaxation desti-nation for as long as anyone can remember, the city has re-ally caught the buzz as of late. New restaurants, bars, clubs, hotels and resorts keep popping up to meet the demand of enthused tourists and adventurers drawn by this fascinating cultural centre nestled right up next to the beach. We are proud to offer this guide designed to highlight the very best Odesa has to offer. You may view additional content and leave comments at www.inyourpocket.com.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Editors noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

PublisherNeolitas-KIS Ltd.Nyzhnioyurkivska 3, Suite 25Kyiv 04080, Ukrainetel. +380 44 467 78 20fax +380 44 467 78 [email protected] No. KB 14927 - 3899P Neolitas-KISPrinted by Express-Polygraph, KyivPublished 4 times per year, 10,000 copies produced each issue

Maps

DNVP Kartographia, 2012 Odesa In Your Pocket, 2012

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5August - October 2012odesa.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & TrAnSPOrT

By bus The Central Bus Station is located at Kolontayivskoi vul. 58. The station is currently undergoing repairs scheduled to be completedwell, no one knows for sure, but not soon. Despite the mess, it continues to function and the bus you need will most likely arrive to or depart from the central station. Bus schedules, ticketing booths () and an information bureau are available. All information is in Russian only, but dont be afraid to express yourself in English. Odesians, especially those who speak Eng-lish, enjoy coming to the aid of disoriented travellers. For informa-tion on existing routes and routing status visit the bus systems website www.bus.com.ua (in Russian only). You can also order tickets to routes designated with a red tick. If you choose to order online, dont forget to specify desired destination.

By car When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your drivers license and your cars registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you dont speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.

By planeOdesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two cur-rency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. A taxi to centre is unreasonably expensive; even experi-enced hagglers can expect to pay a minimum of 100Hr. Car rental might be a better option and is available in the main hall. Your cheapest option is bus or minibus. Fares to centre are less than 2Hr. As you exit the main terminal, look to the right. The bus stop is across the parking lot. Two buses and a couple of minibuses depart at regular intervals. Bus 129 goes to the rail station, and 101 stops at Hretska pl. Minibus 113 heads to Paustovskoho and 117 to Pastera. Also to the right, as you exit the main terminal is a VIP lounge. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

By trainOdesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. A taxi to any centre location shouldnt cost more than 20Hr, but as you are a foreigner you face an uphill battle getting a just fare. If you walk a short distance from the train station (a prime location valued higher by cab-bies) and flag down a car youre sure to get better treatment.Minibuses, buses and trams headed to centre and other points depart from the train station and adjacent bazaar. Keep in mind that youre just a short walk from numerous hotels, restaurants, shops and cafs.

Odesa Tourist Information Centre G-2,Pushkinska 2 (entrance from Lanz-heronivska), tel. (+380) 48 725 24 24,

[email protected]. This new office belongs to Odesa ity ouncil. Tourist Info Centre B-4,Italiyskyi bulv. 11, tel. (+380) 48 731 48 08, www.go2odessa.ru. This of-fice was the first and one of only a handful entire Odesa. Staff can book anything - hotels, all kinds of tickets and city tours. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Free Tours Odessa & Tourist Information Center F-2, Havanna 10, City Garden, tel. (+380) 48) 794-65-89, (+380) 94 95 095 89. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Tourist Information

Trams, Trolleybuses and BusesThese are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They wont get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Tickets cost 1.50Hr and can be purchased from the conductor. All tickets are good for one journey. Monthly travel passes are only available at final stops. Odesas tram system operates 19 routes making it one of the largest in Ukraine. However, if you need to reach centre, tram routes are nonexistent from Preobrazhenska vul. to the shore so youll need to hop on a bus, trolleybus or minibus. The trams main function is to connect the edge of centre with outlaying dis-tricts. Eleven trolleybus routes and 90 bus routes fill in the gaps allowing passengers to reach just about any locale in the city.

Microbuses and minivansAll forms of transit make scheduled stops except for micro-buses and minivans. These privately-owned marshrutkas () or route taxis can stop anywhere along their specified route. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver na zupyntsi, budlaska (on the stop, please) when youve had enough.. Route information (in Russian only) is posted on the front and back windows. Dont forget to pay as you exit. Fares range from 1.75 to 2.50Hr.

Public transport

A new brand style for Odesa was created recently by the well-known Moscow design-er Artemiy Lebedev. Since all history and prosperity of Odesa is connected with the Black Sea, a golden an-chor was chosen as a sym-bol of the city. Not only the symbol, but the full brand book, including logos in dif-ferent languages, fonts, and samples of usage are avail-able at www.artlebedev.ru/everything/odessa/. The city council is going to use

the new brand widely to strengthen the image of Odesa and increase it popularity.

New logo

6Odesa In Your Pocket odesa.inyourpocket.com


Car rentalAVIS H-4, Uspenska 4A, office 12, tel. (+380) 48 722 64 13/(+380) 67 218 21 41, [email protected], www.avis.com.ua/en. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.Europcar F-5, Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 40 11, www.europcar.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hertz G-1, Prymorska 6, tel. (+380) 48 729 33 58, [email protected], www.hertz.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Sixt Staroportofrankivska 55, tel. (+380) 48 715 57 04, www.sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.VRC G-3, Bunina 16B, tel. (+380) 48 734 57 77, www.vrc.com.ua. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Long-distance BusesAutolux Rozkyidailivska 18, tel. (+380) 482 37 73 92, fax (+380) 48 716 47 15, www.autolux.ua/english. Also at Central Bus Station, tel. (+380) 48 716 46 12. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.Central Bus Station Kolontaivska 58, tel. (+380) 48 721 63 54, fax (+380) 48 733 56 63, www.avodessa.com. QOpen 24hrs.Ecolines Kolontaivska 58, Central Bus Station, tel. (+380) 482 32 55 20/(+380) 482 35 64 09, www.ecolines.net. Also at Bozhenka 4, tel. (+380) 482 38 49 00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30.Kraft Reisen GmbH G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel./fax (+380) 482 37 33 34.SAS G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel. (+380) 482 44 77 78.Triton-Service F-6, Novoschepnoi Ryad 5, Pryvoz Bus Station, tel. (+380) 482 32 66 69, fax (+380) 482 32 84 72. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Airline ticketsAirBaltic E-3, Bunina 39, tel. (+380) 48 785 25 41, www.airbaltic.com.Austrian Airlines Odesa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 761 67 00, fax (+380) 482 49 00 78, www.austrian.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Carpatair Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 14, fax (+380) 48 749 55 13, [email protected], www.carpatair.com.Czech Airlines F-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 16, office 1, tel. (+380) 48 728 62 87, fax (+380) 48 731 42 17, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Donbassaero Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 48 711 71 27, www.donbass.aero. QOpen 05:00 - 15:00.EL AL Israel Airlines Odessa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 19 86, fax (+380) 482 49 03 07, www.elal.co.il. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Kiy Avia E-2, Preobrazhenska 15, tel. (+380) 48 725 10 30/(+380) 48 725 00 33, www.kiyavia.com/en/. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 8:00 - 20:00.Malev Hungrian Airlines Odessa International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 54 75, fax (+380) 48 762 36 36, www.malev.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.Polish Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 95, fax (+380) 48 749 55 80, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

TaxiIn Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you dont believe us. Metered taxis dont exist, so youll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed.Ararat tel. (+380) 482 37 10 30Champion tel. (+380) 48 720 00 00.Formula-1 tel. (+380) 48 717 17 17.Forsage tel. (+380) 482 33 32 22.Pantera Express tel. (+380) 482 34 20 00/(+380) 48 777 30 00/50 00.

Th e condi t ion of m o s t r o a d s i n Ukraine is basically wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not all that bright, and sometimes it is dif-ficul t to tell which light is actually lit and

which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings, especially the all-important centre line, often go missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you have a special green arrow next to the red light. Fines for moving violations have recently been increased. The hope is that this action will lead to a decrease in some of the idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the worlds worst road safety ratings. Drivers can now expect to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr for major violations such as drunk driving (Ukraine has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy when it comes to being behind the wheel). New seat belt and helmet laws will be enforced. Fines for pedestrian violations have also increased. The days of being able to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, maybe. Traffic patrol will soon be required to use video and photo surveillance for all traffic stops. With a mix of narrow streets and reckless Michael Schumacher wannabes, driving in Odesa can be a hair-raising experience. The fact that the city is laid out on a grid makes finding your way around relatively simple. Parking in centre can be difficult, but with a little patience and a good eye youre likely to find a free spot. The area around Deribasivska and Hretska pl. works like Chinese finger-cuffs - easy to get in but tricky to get out - and is best avoided. As you enter and exit the city, watch out for the numerous speed traps! According to Ukrainian law, foreign drivers must carry an international driving licence in addition to the licence from their home country. International licences can be acquired in your country of origin. Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with the National Auto Inspector ().

Driving in Odesa

7August - October 2012odesa.inyourpocket.com

Odesa Holovna Train Station F-6, Pryvokzalna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 48 725 14 18. Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. As you proceed to the main hall youll find the departure and arrival schedules. In the halls to the right youll find ticketing windows, a service centre and a bank with currency exchange and ATM. Theres a waiting room with comfortable, plush seating in the service centre. The entrance fee is 5Hr and additional charges vary depending on what you want to do. If you would like to use your mobile phone, for example, the charge is an additional 1.25Hr. An international information desk is also located in the service centre. To the left of the main hall youll find waiting rooms, a caf, toilets, a news stand, a currency exchange and an apartment rental service. Upstairs is another waiting room, telephones and a post office. The first aid station, police office, station administration and a secured luggage locker are all located on platform No. 1. If you need to stash your bags for a while the price for this service per day is 8Hr for small bags, 15 for large and 30 for extra large. Directions are clearly marked in English in the main hall, so if at any time you get lost proceed to the main hall for reorientation.


Tavrey Airlines Frantsuzkyi bulv. 42/1, tel. (+380) 482 37 07 73, fax (+380) 48 786 00 06, www.tavrey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.Transavio G-3, Bunina Str. 16, tel. (+380) 482 37 50 17/37 52 55, fax (+380) 48 777 74 54, [email protected]. service by English QOpen 9:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PJA6UTurkish Airlines G-3, Pushkinska 19, office 17, tel. (+380) 482 34 79 06/(+380) 482 34 79 07, fax (+380) 482 34 79 04, www.thy.com. Also at Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 00 90. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Ukraine International Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 482 37 57 15/(+380) 482 39 37 10, www.flyuia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

AirportsOdesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 39 35 49, www.airport.od.ua. Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre.For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic depar-tures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English.The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

Buying train ticketsFor the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Odesa Holovna train station. The staff does not speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is a good idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time. Dont bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the destination city name in English. Please note that ticket offices accept only cash. Thanks to EURO2012 we finally have English signs almost everywhere. Visit www.uz.gov.ua/en for train schedule. Ticket booking options are also available there (though it may not work sometimes).

From Odesa City To OdesaDep. Arr. Dep. Arr.19:10 13:03 CHERNIHIV 20:53 10:58(on odd days) (on even days)15:57 08:40 CHERNIVTSI 15:52 08:59(on odd days) (on even days)22:20 09:12 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK (1-7) 19:30 06:2814:45 06:18 DONETSK 17:20 09:17(on even days) (on odd days)15:57 7:30 IVANO-FRANKIVSK 17:04 08:59(on even days) (on odd days)18:51 08:50 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 18:08 08:1913:34 20:43 (1-7) KHMELNYTSKIY (1-7) 22:19 05:4518:21 10:21 (1-7) KOVEL (1-7) 17:21 09:5423:15 08:34 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 23:14 08:5019:10 06:55 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 18:22 05:3622:54 07:37 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 21:50 06:1019:00 07:10 (1-7) LVIV (1-7) 19:50 08:0014:45 11:30 LUHANSK 13:19 09:17(on odd days) (on even days)19:29 07:25 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 19:35 08:1018:12 13:03 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 18:15 13:3313:34 20:22 (1-7) VINNYTSIA (1-7) 22:51 05:4514:54 07:20 (1-7) ZAPORIZHYA (1-7) 12:50 04:54

Domestic train schedule

number of the train

to/from stations

seat/berth number

final price

arriving date and time

departure date number of your carriage (vagon)departure time

8 Basics


AlcoholUkrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered home-made vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether its Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest cheers (budmo) will do for a foreigner.

BordersUkraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels dont fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and be-longings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a

visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and cant be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).

CommunismLike an aggressive case of athletes foot, communism refuses to go away. While Ukraines youth embraces capitalism and nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organisation savagely vandalised a famous statue of Vladimir Lenin in Kyiv. Most people, Ukrainians included, link communism to Russia this is inaccurate. Many leaders of the Bolshevik Revolution were, in fact, from Ukraine. The most notable of the lot was Lev (Leon) Trotsky, who actually attended secondary school in Odesa. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrain-ian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was born in the Dnipropetrovsk Oblast. Nikita Khruschev moved from Russia to Donetsk as a teenager, and ascended the ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv.Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalins rule, and memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian nationalism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet leader-ship in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known as the Great Purge (19361938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete eradication of political rivals including fellow party members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). Ukraines share of the victims was disproportionately high.

CustomsIf you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs

Street (.) (VU-lytsia)Square (.) (PLO-scha)Avenue (.) (pro-SPEKT)Boulevard (.) (bul-VAR)Bridge (mist)Embankment (.) (NA-berezhna)Highway (sho-SE)Lane (.) (pro-VU-lok)Descent (uz-VIZ)

Street smartsJanuary 1 New YearJanuary 7 Orthodox ChristmasMarch 8 Womens DayApril 15 Easter SundayApril 16 Easter MondayMay 1-2 A day off for the workersMay 9 Victory DayJune 3 Trinity June 28 Constitution DayAugust 24 Independence Day

National holidays 2012

Though Ukrainian and Russian are similar, there are notable differences including the spelling of many names. This is the case with Odesa (Ukrainian) and Odessa (Russian). Being that Russian is the language spoken by the overwhelming majority of Odesians, the Russian version is more common and useful, i.e. if youre searching the Internet, adding the extra s with definitely result in more hits.

Odesa vs. OdessaOdesaPopulation: 1 010 300Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 62,2%, Russian 26,8%, Bulgarian 3%, Moldovian 2%, other 6%.

UkrainePopulation: 45 633 600 (1 January 2012)Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8% Russian 17.3% Belarusian 0.6% Moldovan 0.5% Crimean Tatar 0.5% Bulgarian 0.4% Hungarian 0.3% Romanian 0.3% Polish 0.3% Jewish 0.2% other 1.8%Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Moun-tains in the extreme south.Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97kmRivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061mLocal time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Odesa, it is 14:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.

Basic data

9Basics


duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.)A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed 50. However, food products should not total more than two kilograms, and there should not be more than one package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less than 200 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than 200, but less than 1000 they will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the value of the goods is greater than 1000, the goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import declara-tion requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (Kanatna 83, tel. (+380 48) 33-52-13/33-52-12. All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost.Medications in the amount required for a course of treatment, accompanied by medical certificates and prescriptions, may be brought in. Prohibited drugs are not permitted. Cats, dogs and birds must be accompanied by a veterinarian health certificate bearing the seal of a state veterinarian institute in the country of origin. It must be issued no more than 10 days prior to arrival. Rabbits need confirmation of recent inoculation within 30 days before transporting or confirmation of yearly re-inoculation. It is prohibited to import puppies and kittens less than three months of age and all pigeons. (Working with our local vet, we prepared all necessary documents for our dog; however, Ukrainian customs officials are a tricky lot. Only after a two hour search for the proper customs office, a 20 minute negotiation and a $30 bribe were we able to take our beloved Labrador.)Precious metals, stones and goods manufactured from such materials, items of cultural value procured for the purpose of sale, animal skins and furs, and feathers and down are prohibited for export.For further information please visit the official web-site of the State Customs Service of Ukraine www.customs.gov.ua or call the hot line 0 800 501 31 30/ (+380) 44 247 27 19/247 28 50.

Disabled travellersOdesa is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. Odesa Holovna train station does have ramps to the platforms, special ticketing windows, toilets and telephones, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.

ElectricityUkraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electri-cal current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Odesa, so bring your own.

LanguageThe countrys official language is Ukrainian. Since inde-pendence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian truly predominant.

MoneyThe national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and

How do costs compare to back home? Heres a handy list of local prices to give you an idea.McDonalds Big Mac 18,00Hr 1,84 $2,25Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr 0,33 $0,40Snickers bar 6,00Hr 0,61 $0,75Litre of vodka 50,00Hr 5,12 $6,26Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 6,00Hr 0,61 $0,7520 Marlboros 13,50Hr 1,38 $1,69Public transport ticket 1,25Hr 0,13 $0,161 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,99Hr 1,13 $1,31

Official exchange rates (as of June 23): 1 9.75Hr US$1 7.99Hr 1 12.53Hr

Current exchange rates are available at odesa.inyourpocket.com

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10 Basics


else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead.Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Transit visas are also required. For additional information, call (+380 48) 784 15 44. Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Lichtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we can book through a travel agency author-ized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380 44) 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the USA can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380 482) 33 33 94.Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the USA, Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380 48) 724 23 24.Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schengen zone. For more information call the following em-bassies: Polish (+380 48) 729 44 13/729 39 36, Hungarian (+380 44) 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380 44) 234 06 06.

Working in UkraineFor most of the past decade, many foreigners took ad-vantage of Ukraines relaxed regulations and didnt bother getting work permits or even visas. Times have definitely changed, and stricter requirements and regulations have forced many of us to play by the rules. Many companies continue to pay in cash under the table, but will offer assis-tance obtaining extended visas. If youre planning to work in Ukraine for a long or indefinite period, it may be beneficial to obtain either permanent or temporary residency. For permanent residency you must be sponsored by a relative with Ukrainian citizenship or prove Ukrainian heritage - this can be done by providing the Office of Passport Registration and Immigration (VVIR) with the birth certificate of a parent or grandparent born in Ukraine and documents proving relation, i.e. your birth certificate, parents birth certificate, marriage licence showing change of name, etc. Though often complicated and time consuming, local and multinational companies can procure temporary residency for foreign personnel. No matter what category you fall into, plan on big hassles and a lot of time spent at VVIR, the Housing Bureau (ZhEK) and the police station.

both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. Youll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Odesa and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.

SafetyThey say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Odesa is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.

SmokingYoure never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located through-out the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.

ToiletsPublic restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Odesa. They are also in short supply, so make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each caf/restaurant/pub you visit. Youre sure to notice locals dancing frantically as they disappear into alleyways and behind trees, only to reappear fresh and liberated. This may be a tempting alternative, but beware: this behaviour inevitably leads to awkward conversations with local police who love to levy hefty fines on foreign tourists. Good luck.

TippingOdesa tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.

VisasCitizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, the USA, Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone

The Odesatelephone code is +380 48

or = ladies or or = gentlemen

11Culture & events


Whats OnBlack Sea Cup17-24.08.2012Odesa Bay/Odesa Sea PortThe Ukrainian open regatta of cruising yachts is organised by the Odesa Regional Sailing Federation and will take place in Odesa Bay. The race will start on August 17, and finish on Independence Day the 24th of August. Up to 8 races are scheduled for the week.

Odesa Regional Cup22-24.08.2012Odesa Bay/Odesa Sea PortOdesa Regional Sailing FederationAnother regatta will take place in Odesa Bay. Odesa Regional Cup is dedicated to the 21st anniversary of independence of Ukraine. About 50 cruise yachts will took part in the race. The Cup programme also includes a young yachtsmen competi-tion. The final race starts from Odesa Sea Port.

DyvokrayPolyethnic Festival of Arts and Crafts24.08.2012Deribasivska StreetInfo: tel.: (+380) 48 722 04 15A traditional festival of folk arts and crafts from different regions of Ukraine will take place in Odesa on Ukraines Independence Day. Visit Deribasivska to familiarize yourself with Ukrainian traditions and buy oberih -Ukrainian traditional talisman- or motanka -folk dolls made from corncobs.

Odesa Day 02.09.2012www.odessa.uaA great celebration of the 218th anniversary of Odesas founding will be full of noisy and colourful events. To join them you should not buy any tickets, just visit the central streets and enjoy.

Odesa MeetingsInternational Festival of Performance Art31.08-11.09.2012Odesa Academic Russian Drama TheatreHretska 48 Tel.: (+380) 48 722-22-51www.rusteatr.odessa.uaThis annual event will take place in Odesa for the 7th time. Russian drama theatres from Moscow, St.Petersburg, Kyiv, Tel-Aviv, Kaliningrad, and Odesa will present their best performances on the stage at the Odesa Academic Russian Drama Theatre.

Odesa Jazz FestInternational Jazz Festival21-23.09.2012Odesa Philharmonic, Bunina, 15Jazz Carnival Producer CentreTel.: (+380) 48) 760-01-09www.jazzcarnaval.com.uaThree days of the best jazz in Odesa! The organizers reveal some of their secrets, kept for Odessa Jazz Fest. The pro-gramme features legendary jazz musicians and new jazz names. Among the guests of the Festival will certainly be Italian red-haired beauty Maria Markesini, the German Klazz Broth-ers, the French trio Paradox. The main event will feature the legendary Polish musician, 73 year old Zbigniew Namyslowski.

Autumn Rock-n-Roll from Goblin ShowInternational Biker & Rock Festival 20-24.09.2012Mykolaivska doroha 164, Luzanivka, Odesakabel stadiumMCC Rolling AnarchyTel.: (+380) 67 567-45-63, (+380) 48 957-67-80www.goblinshow.comOver 10 years ago, in 1999, the first international biker show took place in Odesa. Now it has become an annual event attracting participants from all over Ukraine and abroad. Apart from the usual road show, the programme features music shows, bike exhibitions, etc.

Eneida G-5, Velyka Arnautska 32 tel. (+380) 48 722 78 96, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Kontrabas Art-Caf Balkivska 31, tel. (+380) 48 777 05 40, www.kontrabas.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.

NT-Art I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 5, office 166, tel. (+380) 48 785 59 34, www.nt-art.net. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

Salieri Art Caf F-2, Lanzheronivska 14, tel. (+380) 48 725 00 00. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.Schastie F-2, Katerynynska pl. 6, ap.7, tel. (+380) 48 731 54 40. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.Tvorchestvo F-1, Hoholia 6, tel. (+380) 48 795 59 38. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UVernisage H-5, Belinskoho 13, tel. (+380) 48 725 88 99, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua/eng. service by Engish, Frech QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. PA6ULWhite Moon H-3, Kanatna 9, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 26. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Art galleries

Where to stay12 Culture & events


AMERICAN DAVID LIVINGSTONE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA

MIAMI ODESSA

Business administration programmes (-),Linguistics & Translation studies

SOCIAL PROJECTwww.aufonline.org; [email protected]

Ocial representative in Ukraine:Christian Open University

of Economics & Humanitarian Scienceswww.hgeu.com.ua; [email protected]

7950 NW 53RD STREET, SUITE 215, MIAMI FL 33166 OC

Document N08000011481Acc. to rule 6E-5.001 of the FL Dep. of Ed.

BAYERN HAUS ODESAUspenska 60, oce 2

Culture

Translationcentre

Summer programmes

for children German & Englishlanguage coursesRussian forforeigners

OcialPartner of Goethe-Institutin Ukraine

Culture Centres & SocietiesAlliance Franaise E-2, Sadova 3, tel. (+380) 48 737 46 70, www.af.od.ua/fr. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00, Tue 17:00 - 19:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Arabian Culture Centre F-5, Rishelievska 49, tel. (+380) 482 37 91 60, www.kivan.com. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri.

Bavarian House F-4, Uspenska 60, office 2, tel. (+380) 48 777 06 96, fax (+380) 482 34 52 76, www.bayern-haus.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bakhtalo Drom - Odesa Roma Congress Akademika Zabolotnoho 2, apt. 16, [email protected] - Odesa Karaites Society Krasnova 2, apt. 24.Birlik - Gagauz Cultural Society Varnenska 7B.British Council Fontanska doroha 33, office 107, tel. (+380) 48 718 81 19, www.britishcouncil.org.ua. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun.Bulgarian Culture Centre F-3, prov. Vitse-Admirala Zhukova 9, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36.eska rodin - Odesa Czech Society Akademika Zabolotnoho 51, tel. (+380) 44 54 35 61, www.czro-dina.narod.ru.Greek Culture Foundation F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36, www.hfcodessa.org. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Hellas - Odesa Greek Club Bazarna 71.Hillel Jewish Culture Centre E-1, Hretska 7, tel. (+380) 48 726 60 00, www.hillel.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.

Israel Culture Centre E-1, Pastera 11, tel. (+380) 48 723 02 05. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat.Jewish Culture Centre Beit Grand E-3, Nizhynska 77/79, tel. (+380) 48 737 40 52, www.beit-grand.odessa.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Odesa branch of Azerbaijani Congress of Ukraine Bunina 18.Odesa Jewish Community G-4, Osypova 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 07 70.Odesa Regional Greek Society Bunina 29, office 18, tel. (+380) 482 37 27 72, [email protected] Society of Armenian Culture Gagarinske plato 1.Prosvita Ukrainian Society - Odesa branch H-3, Marazliyevska 34A, tel. (+380) 48 703 36 66.Societ Dante Alighieri - Comitato di Odessa F-2, Hoholia 17, tel. (+380) 48 787 96 65, [email protected], www.dantediodessa.blogspot.com.Ukainian Moldovian Cultural Association G-6, Kanatna, 83, office 18.Ukrainian Club of Odesa F-5, Katerynynska 77, tel. (+380) 44 722 09 66, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.Wiedergeburt- Odesa German Cultural Society Novoselskoho 68.

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13Where to stay


Odesa has been a popular business and tourist destina-tion for more that 200 years. The interest in this important region has left an indelible mark in the form of plenty of accommodation. From ultra-ritzy to run-down Soviet relics, Odesas hotel infrastructure can easily accommodate a wide range of clientele including convention goers, dis-criminating business travellers, sun-seeking families and even budget backpackers. Rooms become harder to find during the summer peak. Our obvious recommendation: book ahead and avoid the hassle.Tired of hotels? A number of private companies offer newly renovated apartments, which can be rented on a nightly basis and are considerably cheaper than most hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite pluses.Prices include breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. Mostly prices doesnt include 1% tourist tax.

Cream of the CropArkadia Plaza Posmitnoho 1, tel. (+380) 482 30 71 00/(+380) 482 30 71 01, fax (+380) 482 30 71 58, [email protected], www.arcadia-plaza.com/english. Arkadia is officially a four star hotel. As we explored the luxurious rooms and became familiar with the wealth of available services we wondered what had happened to the fifth star. Did it get devoured, like a remote control, in the cushions of one of the rooms plush sofas? The 24 lux-class rooms and four spacious suites are stunning, but the services are really what set this place apart. Where else can you order room service 24/7, play tennis, dine on fine French cuisine and disco all under one roof? Other services include swimming-pool, sunbathing terrace, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room, parking, bar/lounge, etc. Did we mention that the hotel is situated on a popular windsurfing beach? Q24 rooms (10 standard 1980 - 2190Hr, 8 superior 2520 - 2730Hr, 2 junior suite 3739 - 3969Hr, 3 suite 5850 - 6060Hr, 1 Plaza Suite 7551 - 7761Hr, extra bed 450Hr). PTHARFLGKDCW hhhhBristol G-3, Pushkinska 15, tel. (+380) 48 796 55 01/(+380) 48 796 55 02, fax (+380) 48 796 55 03, [email protected], www.bristol-hotel.com.ua. The building which houses this hotel was constructed in 1899 by Italian architect Bernardazzi and is protected as a historic monument. Formerly known as Krasnaya (Red) Hotel, the interior was remodelled in 2010. The new interior successfully blends modern amenities with the designers original vision. The ambiance is extremely tasteful and the rooms, with their lofty ceilings and classic furnishings, have a late 19th Century bourgeoisie feel. Rooms come with standard facilities and balconies with views of the historic city centre. Services include restaurant, bar/lounge, laundry, parking, travel services and a barber shop. Q112 rooms (57 standard 270 - 300, 39 superior 320 - 350, 8 junior suite 465, 6 suite 620 - 800, 2 Presidential suite 1100). PZTJHARFLGKDXCW hhhhh

Continental G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 786 03 99, fax (+380) 48 786 05 50, [email protected], www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Originally constructed in the mid 19th century, the hotel was completely reconstructed in 2005. Today it prides itself on being Odesas ideal venue for business and leisure. All rooms are luxuriously designed and incorporate all services expected of a four star hotel including satellite TV, internet, safe, mini-bar, Italian furniture and air-conditioning. Perhaps the most noteworthy feature is located on the first floor. Im referring to the lavish Voyage Restaurant, of course. One taste of the original, superb dishes and youll book a room just to be close to this culinary gem. Q32 rooms (6 economy 1290Hr, 12 standard 1730Hr, 10 junior suite 2390Hr, 3 suite 2900Hr, 1 apartment 4420Hr, extra bed 363Hr). PHARFLGKDCW hhhhLondon E-4, Uspenska 95, tel./fax (+380) 48 784 08 98, [email protected], www.london-hotel.com.ua. This British themed hotel is located next to a picturesque park, whose name has been changed so many times that no one seemed to know what to call it. The hotels name is unmistakable, though, and youll soon notice that theyve taken everything trendy from Britain and stuffed it in through the front door and all the way up to the rafters. The porter is dressed like a beefeater, and whos serving-up ale at the pub? A kilted Scotsman, of course. This place has great security and each room comes with air-conditioning, safe and fabulous park views. The internal non-chlorinated water purification system insures that tap water is drinkable in accordance with European standards - unique features such as this breath in high class. 10% discount when booking from London web-site. Q37 rooms (11 standards 1295 - 1745Hr, 12 twins 1295 - 1745Hr, 1 junior suite 1798 - 2048Hr, 12 suites 2495Hr, 1 duplex apartment 5290Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHARLGKW hhhhLondonskaya G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, tel. (+380) 48 738 01 02/(+380) 48 738 01 03, fax (+380) 48 738 01 11, [email protected], www.londonskaya-hotel.com.ua/. Located in the heart of the city overlooking the port, theyve taken a mid 19th Century hotel and dressed it up with lavishly remodelled rooms and halls complete with all the ambience and modern amenities the contemporary traveller has come to expect. Rooms are equipped with satellite TV, wireless Internet access, mini-bar, fabulous views, safe and air conditioning. Other highlights include airport transfer, disabled access room, free parking, high-tech conference rooms, a spacious banquet room, professional multilingual staff and Formula wellness spa centre with swimming pool and gym. The restaurant and lobby bar have gained a reputation all their own and attract party-goers from far and wide. Q69 rooms (12 standards 110 - 130, 40 superiors 140 - 185, 10 junior suites 260 - 290, 6 suites 350 - 380, 1 Presidential suite 530 - 575). POARUFLGKDCwW hhhhMaristrella Club Vannyi prov. 3, tel. (+380) 48 785 50 00/(+380) 482 32 44 44, [email protected], www.maristella-club.com. A Luxurious 5 star hotel on the seaside outside the centre. This Wellness Spa Resort is in the shape of a large ship. There are 15 top notch rooms ranging from 1750Hr-3250Hr per night. The staff was very helpful and fluent in English. The price includes breakfast and the use of all facilities, pools, spa, gym, etc. Q17 rooms (5 standard 2200 - 2750Hr, 5 studio 4500 - 5400Hr, 5 deluxe suite 6000Hr, 1 Presidential suite 11000Hr, 1 Presidential apart-ment 15000Hr). PTAFLKDCwW hhhhh

P Air-conditioning L Guarded parking6 Animal friendly R InternetT Child friendly G Non-smoking roomsH Conference facilities K RestaurantA Credit cards accepted D SaunaU Facilities for the disabled C Swimming poolF Fitness centre W Wi-Fi internet access

Symbol key

1 = 9.75Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; 1 = 12.53Hr(23 June 2012 official rates)

14 Where to stay


Italian cuisine with Italian chefs at your service. Q9 rooms (3 standard 1680Hr, 3 junior suite 2290Hr, 2 suite 2850Hr, 1 VIP suite 3890Hr, extra bed 500Hr). PHARKDCW

UpmarketAleksandrovskiy F-4, Oleksandrovskyi prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 48 725 61 61, fax (+380) 48 725 48 47, [email protected], www.alexandrovskiy.com.ua. This modern hotel is situated in the heart of the historical city centre and is ideal for either business or pleasure. There are 38 rooms in five different categories, something for every-one. All come with fully equipped and many have a lovely view. Prices range from 895-2500Hr per night. The restaurant is 1st class with a lovely beige dcor and offers European, Russian, and Ukrainian dishes. An average meal costs around 250Hr per person and its open from 11:00-22:00. There are also 2 con-ference rooms available for business meetings. Q38 rooms (standard 990 - 1150Hr, superior standard 1300 - 1460Hr, junior suite 1700 - 1860Hr, suite 2200 - 2800Hr). PHKWAyvazovsky G-3, Bunina 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 97 77, fax (+380) 48 728 11 34, [email protected], www.ayvazovsky.com.ua. Named in honour of the famous Crimean painter, Ayvasovsky sits on a hushed street a few doors down from the Opera and Ballet Theatre and Philharmonic. The design and comfort of the rooms and the level of service definitely warrants more than a three star rating, but rooms are relatively small and dont come with a balcony. International telephone connection, wirelesses Internet, min-bar, safe and air-conditioning are standard in all rooms. The accommodation rate includes a continental breakfast. Services available with additional charges include mini-bar, laundry services and car park. Q27 rooms (suites 1850Hr, standard 880 - 1280Hr, junior suite 1680Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHAGW hhhChorne More (Black Sea) F-5, Rishelievska 59, tel. (+380) 482 30 09 04/(+380) 482 30 09 05, fax (+380) 48 731 47 23, [email protected], www.bs-hotel.com.ua/en. This hotel caters to all tastes. The rooms are elegant, but have a welcome home feel. For those in need of relaxation, a sauna, solarium and massage parlour are just steps away. For those looking to burn a few calories, the hotel has a relatively impressive swimming pool and fitness centre. The restaurant serves up scrumptious European and Japanese cuisine (banquet room seating for up to 85 available), and a casino and concert hall are also at your disposal. Breakfast not included. Q207 rooms (23 singles 500 - 550Hr, 103 doubles 500 - 700Hr, 72 junior suites 650 - 800Hr, 9 suite 900 - 1300Hr, extra bed 100Hr). POARFLGKDCW hhhhColumbus Novoberehova 90, tel./fax (+380) 48 728 03 37, tel. (+380) 48 728 03 34, [email protected], www.columbus-odessa.com.ua. This quaint yet stylish hotel is located on the coast in one of Odesas most romantic and prestigious neighbourhoods. Rooms are mag-nificently decorated and come equipped with cable TV, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, mini-bar and safe. Efficient service ensures speedy check in/out. Business services are also available and include Xerox and document scanning, faxes, etc. Colum-buss restaurant presents an enticing selection of gourmet seafood, and the comfortable refined bar is open around the clock. Other services include airport and rail station transfer, individual tour guides, tickets to theatres, exhibitions and gal-leries, a variety of excursion programs and boat tours. Youll find a Turkish bath, sauna, Jacuzzi and massage parlour in the health centre. Breakfast is included in the room charge, and loyalty discounts are available (ask the front desk for details). Q8 rooms (junior suites 1050 - 1150Hr, suites 1750Hr, extra bed 500Hr). PTALGKDW hhhh

Morskoy Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, tel. (+380) 482 33 90 90/(+380) 482 33 90 95, fax (+380) 482 33 90 91, [email protected], www.morskoy.com. Morskoy is located just steps away from Arcadia Beach and a 10 minute taxi ride from centre. There are countless attractions in the neighbourhood, and sun-seekers tend to stay, dine and party long into the night at one of Arcadias many restaurants and nightclubs. The hotel was built recently so rooms are fash-ionable and modern. All come equipped with safe, min-bar, air-conditioning and satellite TV. The hotels Fish Time Res-taurant is worth checking out even if youre not staying at the hotel. Q54 rooms (29 standard 1912 - 2212Hr, 12 superior 2232 - 2532Hr, 4 junior suite 3032Hr, 6 suite 3512 - 3812Hr, 2 apartment 4312 - 4612Hr, 1 apartments with a terrace 6136 - 6436Hr). PHARFLGKDCW hhhhMozart F-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 37 77 77/(+380) 482 37 69 00, fax (+380) 482 37 98 94, www.mozart-hotel.com/en. During his exile in Odesa, Alek-sander Sergeyevich Pushkin was a regular at this hotels casino. Can you see him across the room? Hes perched attentively on a card table stool, one eye tracking his bet, the other scan-ning the corseted ladies for his next adulterous feast. With its elegant interior and location at the epicentre of Odesas art and culture scene, its understandable why this hotel so easily lured Pushkin. The casinos gone, but a variety of impressive amenities stand in its place and include a swimming pool, VIP lounge, bar, banquet halls and Mozarts own restaurant renown for its Ukrainian and European dishes and romantic views of the Opera and Ballet Theatre. The rooms definitely lack in space, but are luxurious and packed with goodies such as air-conditioning, cable TV, Internet, mini-bar, etc. Q41 rooms (3 suites 2722 - 3785Hr, 3 apartments 3984Hr, 2 junior standards 1328 - 1859Hr, 28 stardards 1585 - 2117Hr, 2 family rooms 1585 - 3179Hr, 3 junior suites 2192 - 3254Hr, extra bed 531Hr). PHARLGKDCW hhhhOtrada I-6, Zatyshna 11, tel./fax (+380) 482 33 06 98, [email protected], en.hotel-otrada.com. Located in the ritziest part of town and just steps from the beach, Otrada is a touch of class in a sea of mediocrity. The stunning building was designed and constructed in the late 19th century. The 26 rooms (ten standard, six luxe, three deluxe and seven suites) were elegantly remodelled in 2005. All rooms come with satellite TV, Internet access, mini-bar, safe, hair-dryer, robe and slippers. This ultra-stylish venue is equipped with wonderful security, room service, business centre services and free parking. Two of the citys most celebrated eateries, Casa dItalia and La Terrazza, offer-up fine European and Ukrainian cuisine. Otradas Beach Club is unrivalled in Odesa: relax in the pool or sauna and get pampered at the beauty centre. Q26 rooms (10 standards 1850 - 2257Hr, 6 superiors 2504 - 2704Hr, 7 junior suites 3226 - 4884Hr, 2 suites 6347Hr, 1 apartment 9800Hr, extra bed 525Hr). PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhhVilla Venezia Kamanina 16, tel. (+380) 482 34 26 36/(+380) 482 34 69 34, [email protected], www.venice-hotel.com.ua. There are 10 fully equipped rooms in 3 categories ranging from 1287Hr- 2863Hr. There is a sauna, indoor and outdoor pools, and many extras including round the clock service. The popular restaurant offers European and

A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door.Pull Push Open Closed

Door smarts

15Where to stay


ua. This boutique hotel is building a reputation of a friendly hotel, the staff do all they can to make your stay pleasant. While it is a bit off the beaten path, its not that far from the centre and has an excellent sea view. There is a swimming pool and lovely gardens to stroll in. There are 16 spacious rooms in lovely dcor; each room has its own unique design. Prices range from 1,600-3,200Hr per room. Q16 rooms (deluxe room 1970 - 2670Hr, junior suite 2550 - 3100Hr, suite 3100Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PAFGXCWPalladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 30, fax (+380) 48 728 78 99, [email protected], www.hotel-palladium.com.ua. Located five min-utes walk from the railway station, Palladium is a modern hotel with an ultra stylish interior. Rooms are equipped with cable TV, a climate control system, a telephone and a mini-bar. The courteous staff is at your service and the entertainment and relaxation amenities are contemporary and impressive. The hotel hosts a popular restaurant and night club. Other amenities include Turkish and Finish sauna, massage, Jacuzzi and Russian billiards. Q23 rooms (17 standards 1038Hr, 2 junior suites 1362Hr, 3 suites 1914 - 2178Hr, 1 apartment 2340Hr). PHAR6LGKDC hhhhProminada Fontanska doroha 143, tel. (+ 380) 48 705 40 50, fax (+ 380) 48 705 40 51, [email protected], www.prominada.com. The architecture resembles an old style house and is out of town 5 minutes from clean beaches. We found the staff friendly and English speaking. The rooms are spacious, fully equipped, and very affordable with a great buffet breakfast included. The 3 categories of rooms range from 1,000Hr. double occupancy to 1,400Hr. There are discounts for early bookings. There is a conference room, swimming pool, ample parking and access to the spa and gym at nearby Hotel Maristella. Q (standard 1300 - 1600Hr, junior suite 1600 - 1900Hr, suite 1900 - 2200Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PHALCW

Mid-rangeBrigantina Lanzheron beach, tel. (+380) 48 725 07 25, fax (+380) 48 725 67 25, [email protected], www.hotel-brigantina.od.ua. The feature that sets Brigantina apart from the competition on Lanzheron beach is that they have English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc. Rooms are basic, tidy, come equipped with Wi-fi, TV, air conditioner and are priced according to the view. Space is limited, so book ahead. The restaurant features a popular terrace, a spacious indoor dining area and private dining room. Ukrainian and European dishes make up a menu highlighted by grilled veal, pork and chicken, salmon, Black Sea kambala and roasted veggies. Q9 rooms (8 doubles 600 - 700Hr, 1 suite 1000Hr). PARGKW hhh

Ekaterina II E-2, Kateryninska pl. 7B, tel. (+380) 48 729 67 00, [email protected], www.hotel-ekaterina.od.ua. This lovely hotel is named in honor of Catherine the Great whose decree in 1794 founded the city of Caledonia (Odesa). It is close to the centre near the famous Potemkin steps. The building which houses Catherine is a monument of architecture. It was built in 1905 and has the longest and most famous balcony in Europe. (I bet you didnt know that.) At first sight we thought how can anything nice be in this building? This is getting to be a common trend in Odesa, to build luxury hotel rooms in an older-regular apartment building. There are 12 exquisite junior suites and 13 standard rooms. Each room has its own design & colour giving a warm and cosy atmosphere. There are also a few self-contained apartments. We found the staff to be friendly and helpful, and fluent in English. It has a lovely roof-top 24 hour restaurant with a breathtaking view. The cuisine is European, and an average meal will cost about 300Hr for two. Q25 rooms (economy 980Hr, standard 1120 - 1220Hr, superior 1320Hr, junior suite 1140 - 1160Hr). PKWFrapolli G-2, Deribasivska 13, tel./fax (+380) 482 35 68 01, tel. (+380) 482 35 68 09, [email protected], www.frapolli-hotel.com. They must be doing something right - all 26 rooms were booked when we visited and they could only show us around the elegant lobby. The excellent location on Deribasivska vul. and the luxurious interior jus-tify its popularity. Rooms come with air-conditioning, safe, mini-bar, satellite TV and views ideal for people watching. A small meeting room equipped with modern goodies can be booked and accommodates up to 20. Other mentionables include breakfast buffet, bar, sauna, gym and round the clock service. Q27 rooms (2 economy rooms 840Hr, 9 standards 1185 - 1385Hr, 9 superiors 1475 - 1675Hr, 5 junior suites 1590 - 1790Hr, 1 suite 1740 - 1940Hr, 1 apartments 2000Hr). PTHAR6ULGKDW hhhhFrederic Koklen F-2, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48 737 55 53/(+380) 48 737 55 54, fax (+380) 48 737 55 51, [email protected], www.koklenhotel.com. This small cosy boutique hotel Frederic Koklen is located in the historical centre of Odesa and is surrounded by all major city attractions. The four storied 19th century building contains 17 rooms, which are designed in classic style. In the hotel you wont find two similar rooms, each is unique. The set of ameni-ties includes WiFi, air-conditioning, satellite TV,etc. There is also a fitness centre and conference hall. The hotels windows overlook either the old streets of Odessa, or the lovely court-yard. Q17 rooms (1 single 1455Hr, 9 doubles 1735Hr, 1 junior suite 2355Hr, 4 suite 2830 - 4035Hr, 2 apartments 2955Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHAR6UFLGKW hhhLa Gioconda I-5, Druhyi Lermontovskyi provulok, 1, tel. (+380) 48 784 14 60, fax (+380) 48 784 14 59, [email protected], www.lagioconda.odessa.

16 Where to stay


Chorne More Otrada (Black Sea-Joy) H-6, Vitse-Admirala Azarova 1, tel. (+380) 48 729 86 55/(+380) 48 729 86 56, fax (+380) 48 729 86 56, [email protected], www.bs-hotel.com.ua. It is located near the centre not far from the famous French boulevard. The hotel has a restaurant, lobby bar, summer terrace with BBQ, four tennis courts, and a football field. Nearby are a hiking trail, beach, and a yacht club, where one can find boats for hire. One can rent speedy little water scooters, or be dragged by a boat in a parachute. There are 32 rooms with a modern, stylish design. They have lovely panorama windows and some have a sea view. The prices varying according to the season and number of occupants. So a standard could run from 600-1,210Hr, a junior suite from 715-1, 4 30 hr, and a suite from 1,210-2,860 Hr. (Breakfast not included). The restaurant serves Mediter-ranean & European cuisine and is open daily from 07:00-21:00, weekends till 23:00. Q32 rooms (25 standard 715 - 825Hr, 5 junior suite 935 - 1045Hr, 2 suite 1430Hr). PHLKWDeribas F-2, Deribasivska 27, tel. (+380) 48 794 43 64/(+380) 67 559 01 01, [email protected], www.hotel-deribas.com. Conveniently located on the most popular street in the city centre. All rooms are decorated in lovely light tones and are fully equipped. Prices range from 350Hr. - 800Hr., depending on the season and amount of persons booking. Each room comes with a semi kitchen, and there is catering available as well as a handsome discount at a nearby restaurant. Q (economy 550Hr, standard 720Hr, business 1000Hr, superior business 1200Hr). PWEkaterina F-3, Hretska 25, tel. (+380) 48 722 64 08, [email protected], www.hotel-ekaterina.com. The hotel is named in honour of Catherine the Great who in 1794 issued the decree to found the town the pearl near the sea and named it Odessa. It is located right in the city centre. The building was originally created by the famous architecture Ju.M. Dmitrenko as a mansion. Each room is uniquely designed with Italian furniture, is fully equipped, and can accommodate up to 3. Q15 rooms (suites 1290 - 1350Hr, apartments 1490 - 1790Hr, junior suite 1150 - 1190Hr, deluxe suite 1550 - 1750Hr, family 1840 - 2040Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PWLermontovskiy I-5, Lermontovskyi prov. 2, tel. (+380) 48 717 78 77/(+380) 48 717 78 79, [email protected], www.lermontovskiy.com.ua. The hotel is located next to Lermontovskyi Sanatorium - a tremendously popular destination for health rejuvenation and relaxation during So-viet times. The hotel really stands out against the rundown back drop that is the sanatorium. The area and hotel continue to attract a mostly Eastern European crowd and western-ers may find familiar services lacking and the atmosphere somewhat tacky. However, the location - a short walk from the beach, Chornomorets Tennis Club, a yacht club and seaside restaurants - make this an intriguing possibility for summer

visitors. All rooms come equipped with air-conditioning and satellite TV. Youll have to book a premium if you desire a mini-bar, bathrobe or slippers. Services include a restaurant, caf, sauna, small conference room, travel services, parking and laundry. Q33 rooms (singles 620Hr, doubles 650 - 840Hr, suites 890 - 1080Hr). PHALGKDCW hhhMedea Henuezka, 31/1, tel. (+380) 48 760 13 60/(+380) 48 746 62 51, fax (+380) 48 760 13 38, [email protected], www.medea.at.ua. This hotel-restaurant is hard to beat! I remember seeing the restaurant before but never realized that it is a hotel as well. Its as close to the sea as you can get, right in the heart of Arcadia. There are 13 rooms fully equipped rooms - all with a sea view! Coffee in bed is included! (Breakfast & Internet costs a bit extra.) The dcor is an old style of beautiful wood & stone which gives it an authentic Armenian touch. Price per night ranges from 400-1,200 Hr. The restaurant is of course Armenian cuisine with an English menu & a warm English speaking staff. There is shashlyk, and special dishes with mutton & chicken served with potatoes by dancing girls in Armenian costumes. (Or is it Armenian girls in dancing costumes?) The average meal is about 300Hr per person. Open 24 hours. Q13 rooms (economies 650Hr, standards 800Hr, superior standards 1200Hr). PAGKOktyabrskaya H-4, Kanatna 31, tel. (+380) 48 728 88 63, fax (+380) 48 760 14 62, [email protected], www.oktyabrskaya.com.ua. This hotel is located ten minutes walk from Deribasivska in one direction and the train station in the other. Rooms are neatly remodelled to the local taste and come standard with refrigerator, satellite TV and Internet connection. Most rooms have air-conditioning and some luxe rooms come with balconies overlooking a sleepy courtyard. Economy class rooms have a shared bathroom. The complimentary light buffet breakfast is served in the quaint caf that features Ukrainian cuisine. There is very little information available in English, but the staff is more or less capable and, true to their Odesian roots, are friendly and always willing to help. The hotels conference hall accom-modates up to 30. Q59 rooms (7 suites 1080 - 1160Hr, 11 economy 430 - 510Hr, 34 standard 680 - 860Hr, 7 junior suite 930 - 1010Hr). PHARLGKDW hhhPalma I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel. (+380) 482 339 339, [email protected], www.hotel-palma.od.ua. If a tidal wave ever hits Odesa, this place would be completely swamped - thats how close you are to the beach. The hotel has 24 rooms with a double bed in each room and are priced based on the view (rooms with sea views come at a premium). Popular with young couples, advanced booking is recommended. The caf has a bit of everything for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ukrainian dominates the menu, with the shashlik and Odesa-style sudak being among the favourite items. Q12 rooms (9 standards 500 - 600Hr, 3 suites 750Hr). PR6LGKW hhh

17Where to stay


Princess Fontanska doroha 71A/3, tel. (+380) 48 777 63 44, www.princess.od.ua. The princess is a lovely modern hotel out of town on the road to Arcadia and the beaches. There are no signs and even locals 100 meters from it could not tell us where it was - so get directions 1st or get GPS co-ordinates. Having arrived, we needed to put on sunglasses as the reception area is so bright & white and the staff very friendly and fluent in English. There are 30 rooms, with a modern-bright design-very impressive! The prices are quite reasonable; from 550-1,500Hr per night. (Breakfast is extra-just 65Hr.) Q30 rooms (20 standard 550Hr, 7 junior suite 770Hr, 3 suite 1100 - 1320Hr). PWTsentralnyi (Central) E-3, Preobrazhenska 40, tel. (+380) 482 36 58 05/(+380) 48 726 84 06, fax (+380) 48 726 86 89, [email protected], www.cen-tralhotel.od.ua. Is the glass half empty or is it half full? Is Tsentralnyi a great value or do you get what you pay for? You be the judge. The location is a definite plus, as is the English speaking front desk. Be nice to the Soviet-era key lady who patrols the halls - this may be the key to a satisfying stay. Corny jokes aside, the rooms have had some remodelling, the complimentary slippers are a nice touch and the communal toilet is clean. Thats right. If you opt for a cheaper room, youll have to share a toilet. The caf and bar are on the ground floor. Q61 rooms (25 singles 260 - 500Hr, 24 doubles 340 - 760Hr, 8 junior suites 800 - 900Hr, 4 suite 1200Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHAR6LGW hhYunost S.Varlamova 32, tel. (+380) 48 738 04 04/(+380) 48 738 04 17, fax (+380) 48 738 04 12, [email protected], www.hotel-yunost.com. Located on legendary Frantsuzkyi Boulevard, Yunost offers affordable rooms and spacious conference facilities. Arcadia Beach - Odesas coastal dining and entertainment epicentre - and the botanical garden are just a short walk/ride from the hotel. Rooms range from the bargain Twin Standard to the posh Wedding Suite (also a great value). The three modern conference rooms are perfect for both large conferences and small business meetings. The caf and Mediterranean Ter-race offer guests a variety of tasty dishes. Banquets can be arranged for up to 45 people; parties and standing receptions can be booked for as many as 60. Other notable services include Wi-Fi, banking, car rental, parking, safe, transfer, travel services, beauty salon, massage, room service and a busi-ness centre. Yunost is also known for its enticing specials such as the wedding and honeymoon package and unbeatable deals for business groups. Q156 rooms (17 single standart 495 Hr, 66 twin standart 495 Hr, 30 junior suites 910 Hr, 43 suites 1060-1260 Hr) . PHARUFLDW hhh

Apartment hotelsAmerikano F-3, Rishelievska 17, 3rd f loor, tel./fax (+380) 48 729 70 50, tel. (+380) 93 541 69 69, [email protected], www.aparthotel-amerikano.com. Its amazing what can be done with a little imagination. From the outside it looks like a regular apartment building. Inside, it resembles a 4 star hotel with 24 rooms, it is right near the centre and quite unique as each room has its own in style and dcor such as art deco, etc. prices are quite reasonable running from 400-800Hr per room. Q (studio 775Hr, junior suite 936Hr, deluxe suite 1110Hr). PJAGWCorona Henuezka 36, tel. (+380) 48 700 44 08, fax (+380) 48 785 40 89, [email protected], www.coronahotel.com.ua. These lovely hotel/apartments are located near Arcadia and the beach . Some rooms are apartments with kitchen etc. while others are just hotel rooms. All are top standard, fully equipped with round the clock service. There is a lovely caf open from 10:00-00:00. Feel like a workout? There is also access to the citys largest fitness club-right in the building. Transfers and help with tickets etc. is also available. Prices vary ac-cording to category and time of year. Roughly the prices go from 499 to 1,400Hr per night. We thought it a pretty good deal. (Careful for the elevator-its tricky.) Q (stand-ard 960 - 1000Hr, senoir standard 1150 - 1200Hr, suite 1200Hr, apartment 1400 - 1550Hr). PWDRK Residence F-2, Lanzheronivska 24, tel. (+380) 482 32 72 26/(+380) 482 32 72 28, fax (+380) 482 32 82 29, www.hotel-drk.com.ua. Located smack dab in the centre, this residence has a unique theme; all rooms are 2 tier thus creating more space. The dcor is modern with beige tones adding to the peaceful atmosphere of the hotel. It has AC & all the standard goodies, and surprise - it is wheel chair accessible. The rooms range from 500-1,900Hr per night for two, breakfast included. Q28 rooms (standard 700 - 950Hr, junior suite 1100Hr, suite 1500 - 1900Hr). PUWKlumba G-4, Osypova 5, tel. (+380) 48 711 73 27/(+380) 93 710 56 21, [email protected], www.hotel-clumba.com. The Klumba or flower bed mini hotel is located just a short walk from the city centre. Actually it is located in 2 mansions next to each other. The 21 rooms are designed for a family or those on extended holiday: there is a washing machine, built-in mini-kitchens and, of course, WiFi, TV, & AC. There are small balconies with cosy wicker furniture and a wonder-ful view. Prices range from 422-1,250Hr per room. While there is no restaurant, there is a 20% discount for guests at a nearby caf. Q21 rooms (suites 1350Hr, business 650Hr, superior 750Hr, studio 870Hr, family 970Hr, junior suite 1100Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PW

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18 Where to stay


Odessa Executive Suites F-3, Chervonyi prov. 1, tel. (+380) 48 249 62 72, [email protected], www.odessaexecutivesuites.com. OES is American managed, with an English speaking staff and situated within walking distance to all attractions, restaurants, cafes, night-clubs, supermarkets, and banks. There are 6 categories of room, fully equipped with kitchenette. Free transport to and from airport and free long distance phone calls to most countries. Very competitive prices, breakfast included. Q17 rooms (suites 85 - 180US$). PAR6KDOdesskiy Dvorik Residence H-4, Uspenska 19, tel. (+380) 48 777 72 71, fax (+380) 48 728 75 73, [email protected], www.odesskii-dvorik.od.ua. This hotel has a unique design with a V.I.P. room, 7 Elite, 6 luxury, 12 business, 15 Standard and 2 economy rooms. All rooms are modern, comfortable, with TV, mini-bar, electronic safe, air-conditioner, phone, and internet access option. The hotel includes restaurant (Jazz Cafe), conference hall (up to 80 per-sons), gymnasium, parking, and WiFi zone. Moderately priced. Q49 rooms (economy 950Hr, standard 900 - 1100Hr, junior suite 1160 - 1360Hr, suite 1560 - 1760Hr, apartment 3200Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PHAR6FLGKDW hhhhRenaissance Suites Odessa G-3, Rishelievska 11, apt. 22, tel. (+380) 48 787 01 11/(+380) 48 700 5666, [email protected], www.rso.od.ua. Great location in the centre with a friendly English speaking staff. We liked the bright rooms and fully equipped kitchen. Very modern with sat TV and computer with internet. Also free phone calls to anywhere in the world! Q10 rooms (4 studio 59 - 69US$, 3 1-bedroom 75 - 79US$, 2 2-bedroom 120 - 139US$, 1 3-bedroom 149 - 170US$). PRW

Apartment RentalOdessa Apartments E-2, Hretska pl., Afina Centre, 7th floor, Suite 745, tel. (+380) 67 708 55 01/(+380) 67 484 52 36, [email protected], www.odessaapts.com. Odessa Apartments offers a large variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Odesa. Apartments for every taste, budget and style both in the centre and near Arkadia beach. Free airport pick-up. Q studio from $49, 1-bedroom from $42, 2-bedroom from $74, 3-bedroom from $134. PARoomMe - web portal of short-term apartment rent, tel. (+380) 67 340 81 65, [email protected], www.roomme.net/en/. This portal provides an up-to-date range of apartments in major cities of Ukraine and option to book an apartment online. Customers can use the internal messaging system to get from apartment owner all neces-sary details. Using a recommendation system, clients can share their opinions of the apartments where they stayed. Q300 rooms (300 apartments 20 - 140).

Mirage I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 725 74 16, [email protected], www.mirage.od.ua/en/. Mirage is a popular seaside destination for families with small children. Rooms are modern and come with views of the sea or a courtyard garden. Air conditioner and cable TV come standard. The restaurant is open 24 hours and has an eclectic menu with tasty grill and fish items, a great kids section. Popular terrace seating is also avail-able. Q12 rooms (12 doubles 650 - 750Hr). PKWPassage E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, tel. (+380) 48 728 55 00, fax (+380) 48 728 55 02, [email protected], passage-hotel.com.ua. Once a prestigious hotel, almost nothing has changed about this place since the Brezhnev years. The rooms amenities (i.e. the phone, facets and light fixtures) are working Soviet-era antiques. Though primitive, it has managed to keep some of its charm and offers an affordable alternative to the mega-price joints youll find on and around Deribasivska vul. The helpful staff speaks some English. A Georgian restaurant, bar and salon round-out the available services. Q132 rooms (23 economy 190 - 265Hr, 69 standard 316 - 516Hr, 36 junior suite 490 - 780Hr, 4 suite 915Hr). PA6LGK hhShalanda Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 787 10 10, www.shalanda.odessa.ua. Shalanda is located 30 metres from the beach and every room comes with a sea view. The hotel features four half-lux rooms (a bit tight) and two lux rooms. The European-Ukrainian restaurant offers up hearty dishes such as Waldorf salad, borsht, salmon, steaks and a succulent grill selection. Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served until 12:00 (perfect for late night partiers). Q6 rooms (4 junior suite 800Hr, 2 suite 1000Hr, extra bed 400 - 500Hr). P6GK

Budget

De Rishelie F-4, Rishelievska 30, tel. (+380) 48 785 16 53, [email protected], www.derishele.od.ua. Very cosy atmosphere in a renovated mansion, with friendly staff speaking basic English in a good central location. All rooms are equipped with TV & WiFi. Q14 rooms (2 economy 350Hr, 8 standard 400Hr, 4 superior 450Hr). PARW

Guest House

Kuyalnik Resort Kuyalnik Liman, tel. (+380) 48 751 51 13, fax (+380) 48 751 51 32, [email protected]. www.kuyalnik.com.ua. Located on the coast 13 kilome-tres from the city centre, Kuyalniks sulphide silt mud is world renowned for its medicinal properties. Established in 1833, this is the oldest mud resort in Ukraine. Also, Kuyalnik mineral water has been proven to improve gastrointestinal function.Chabanka Rest Complex Hvardiyska 50, Chorno-morske, Odesa Region, tel. (+380) 48 750 99 90, fax (+380) 48 750 99 76, [email protected], www.cha-banka.od.ua. Chabanka is located 30 kilometres from Ode-sa on the sea cost and surrounded by a large park with exotic flowers, lakes and fountains. Restaurant, bar, fitness centre, tennis court, billiard, golf field, swimming pool and guarded parking are for guests service. English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc.

Health Resorts

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19Where to stay


one public laptop with internet you can use. For your service theres also full equipped kitchen with a fridge, microwave oven and everything you might need for cooking. Q doubles 33, dorms 11 - 13. PWMaryans Home G-2, Deribasivska 9, apt. 31, tel. (+380) 95 894 8508. Maryans Home is located in the main street of Odesa in a quiet and safe courtyard. (There is a code lock on the gate facing the street. To open it you have to press 3 and 8 at once.) It offers 2 dorms (first for 4 and second for 6 people) and 1 private bedroom (for 1 persone), with win-dows facing the courtyard. There is a shared bathroom and toilet with a washing machine. Theres also a kitchen with a refrigerator and a gas cooker. Other facilities include free tea and coffee all day. Q Bed in mixed dorm from 12. PWThe Babushka Grand Hostel F-5, Mala Arnautska 60, 2nd floor, apt. 16, tel. (+380) 63 070 55 35, [email protected]. The Babushka Grand hostel is in the city centre, 3 blocks from the train station. The hostel is a large spacious apartment with chandeliers and gold gilded ceilings, styled after the palace of an 18th century Odesa aristocrat. It has two balconies for lounging or smoking, two bathrooms and a large comfy communal area with couches and a TV. The kitchen is fully functional with a blender, microwave, stove, oven, spices, coffee grinder. The dorm room is beautiful and spacious. The private room is luxurious and decorated with classic furniture. Q (doubles 375Hr, 4-bed dorms 160Hr, 10-bed dorms 125Hr). Bed in mixed dorm from 125Hr. PWTIU Front Page E-2, Koblevska 42, tel. (+380) 44 96 834 40 74, [email protected]. The hostel consists of a large and airy 13 bed Dorm Room with a small private balcony overlooking the cobbled street; another large 11 bed Dorm Room; and 2 Private Double Rooms. There is a Common Room with sofas, TV, and a Book-Swap Library; 3 shower stalls, and 3 toilets;a large dining/entertaining area;.and a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare their own food. Free Security Lockers for every guest are the great touch. Q 2 doubles 18, 2 dorms 11. Bed in mixed dorm from 12.

HostelsAncient City Hostel E-1, Pastera, 24, tel. (+380) 67 557 2690. Located in the heart of the historical Odessa cen-tre and just a 5 minutes walk from the famous Deribasivska street and most of Odesa attractions.Kitchen has everything you will need and is equipped with a refrigerator cooker and tea making facilities. High speed internet access, TV, DVD player and air conditioning. Towels and sheets are included in the price. Q Bed mixed dorm from 20. PNWAntonys Home F-4, Troitska 45. Anthonys Home is lo-cated in the historical part of Odesa, within 5 minutes walking distance of the main street - Deribasivska, in a quiet and safe courtyard. It offers dorms for 8, 5 and 4 people (the last one with a balcony) and 1 room for couples and 1 room for 3 people (i.e. families), with windows facing the courtyard. There are 5 shared WC in hostel and also, a washing machine, a kitchen-studio with a refrigerator and a gas cooker. Nearby there is a supermarket and a parking lot. Q Beds in mixed dorm from 10. WGolden Star Odessa E-3, Hretska 50, tel. (+380) 67 955 1954, www.letsbookhotel.com. Located in a quiet courtyard in the heart of Odesas historic Old Town, this hostel is just a 2-minute walk from the famous Deribasivska Street. Free Wi-Fi and a shared kitchen are featured here. Guests at the Hostel Golden Star Odessa stay in colourful dormitories, which have a shared bathroom in the hallway. The shared kitchen is ideal for preparing meals, and there are several restaurants and supermarkets within walking distance of the Golden Star. Q Bed in mixed dorm from 130Hr. GXWMagic Bus F-3, Pushinska 8, apt. 14, tel. (+380) 97 833 33 58, [email protected], www.magicbush-ostel.com. Magic Bus Backpackers is a very nice location to stay during a trip. Its perfectly situated in the very centre of the city, an excellent place when you want to discover the city by day & night. The staff is very friendly and helpful, a big advantage if you dont know any Russian/Ukrainian. The rooms (2 dorms and 2 private ones) are quite clean. Theres


20 RestauRants

Ukrainska Lasunka F-2, Deribasivska 17, tel. (+380) 48 725 84 12/(+380) 48 731 54 27, www.lakomka.com.ua. With such a vibrant 19th century Ukrainian village atmosphere its easy to imagine what it must have been like to dine at Taras Shevchenkos cottage, and the menu (in English) doesnt miss a dish from babushkas cookbook. Its to your advantage to be a bit loud yet jovial as the wait staff is eithe

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