˜discoverperu · peruvian plantcu¢er. near pacasmayo is the cañon-cillo reserve, which is worth...

THE NORTHERN BIRDING ROUTE�DISCOVERPERU

�Perú, a true paradise of birds

Peru list. Facilities are limited with visitors either camp-ing or staying at the biological station prior arrange-ment with SERNANP (national park service) in Tumbes.

�Tumbes MangrovesThe Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary is a 2,970 ha state protected area bordering Ecuador. Located north of the city of Tumbes, the Tumbes Mangroves represent the southern limit of this habitat on the Pacific coast of South America. Key species include the Rufous-necked Wood-Rail, Yellow-crowned Night-heron, Bare-throated Tiger-heron and Mangrove Warbler. About 200 bird species have been recorded here and make sure to check out the dry forest patches for additional species. The main access point is Puerto 25 where the local community is well organized to provide canoe trips through the mangroves. Overnight facilities are also available. Other access points are El Algarrobo and El Bendito. Various tour agencies in Tumbes offer trips to the mangroves. Another way to visit the mangroves is from Puerto Pizarro port, which is more for general tourists and provides less variety with birds. If you are in Tumbes city with an hour or two to spare keep birding at the Palo Santo reserve (60 ha), just 1.5 km south-east of town.

�PiuraHeading south from Tumbes the border with Piura department is Quebrada Fernandez, just north of Mancora. This quebrada is worth exploring for the Tumbes Tyrant, Rufous Flycatcher and other dry forest birds. South of Mancora is Los Organos from where pelagic trips can be organized; the warm waters of the El Niño Current here provide excellent high-sea birding with Galapagos and Parkinson´s Petrel, Black and Least Storm-Petrel and Nazca Booby amongst many others.

Further south on the coast is Talara city and nearby is the hamlet of Piedritas, on the south side of Quebrada Pariñas. This is a great spot to pick up the Peruvian Plantcu¢er, Tumbes Tyrant, Cinereous Finch and other Tumbesian dry forest birds. Heading along the Pan-American highway the next major town is Sullana. To the north of Sullana is the El Angolo Hunting Ground (65,000 ha), which although good for birding needs some previous planning to visit. In Piura city the campus of the University of Piura (UDEP) provides good birding with Peruvian Thick-knee and Tumbes Swallow amongst 30 to 40 birds that can be picked up in a couple of hours. South-west from Piura heading to the coast are the San Pedro Mangroves, Virrila Estuary, Ramón & Ñapique lagoons and the Illescas Peninsula. These sites can be visited with some planning and a good early start from Piura.

�ebrada Frejolillo and Limón de Porcuya Back in Piura the road east is the old Pan-American highway to Chiclayo and the road needed to visit Quebrada Frejolillo (near Limón village), a regular site for the White-winged Guan. From Mocape village, north of Olmos, a trail leads in for some 20 km to the site for the Guan. Facilities are few here so either camp or overnight in Olmos. Just south of Olmos is the junction for the main road to Tarapoto and Yurima-guas and the backbone of the main northern circuit. A few kilometres along this road is the village of Limón de Porcuya (or Porculla) and another regular site visited on tours for the Piura Chat-Tyrant, Gray-chinned Hermit (porcullae race), Henna-headed Foliage-gleaner and White-headed Brush-Finch. Further along the main road is the pass of Abra Porcuya, which at 2,140 m. is the lowest pass of the Andean chain. South of Piura department is Lambayeque, with its capital Chiclayo city.

Buff-Bellied Tanager and Marañón Thrush. On the opposite side of the road from the reserve is an old cement bridge over the Utcubamba river; worth a few minutes to check for Torrent Ducks.

�Kuelap and LeymebambaThe side trip to the Chachapoyan fortress of Kuelap may not add new birds but is spectacular and worth visiting. This road up passes the Huiquilla private reserve at the entrance to Choctomal village. Back on the main road keep checking the river for ducks and herons before reaching Leymebamba town. The excellent museum on the road out of town is worth visiting for its collection of Chachapoyan mummies, while the gardens are good for birding. In front of the museum is the Kentitambo cafe, great for coffee and cake while watching up to 18 species of hummingbird at feeders, including Marvelous Spatuletail and Sword-billed Hummingbird. Just after the museum is the track up the Río Atuen, great for birding with Golden-headed Quetzals, Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan and Andean Condors amongst many others.

bra Barro Negro - Balsas - Celendin - CajamarcaAfter Leymebamba the road climbs for some 25 km to the pass at Abra Barro Negro (a.k.a Calla Calla) at 3,600 m., then drops down to the village of Balsas at 960 m. on the Marañón river. The scenery is awesome on this section and birding stops can be made anywhere there is reasonable vegetation, searching

for such species as the White-chinned Thistletail, Russet-mantled Sof¢ail, Baron´s Spinetail and Rufus-capped Antshrike. Climbing up the other side of the valley from Balsas look for Peruvian Pigeon, Yellow-faced Parrotlet, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Black-necked Woodpecker and Marañon Thrush. Around the village of Limón check scrub for Chestnut-backed Thornbird and Gray-winged Inca-Finch. The road continues to climb to a pass at 3,100 m. near the village of Gelic before dropping down into the town of Celendin. After Celendin check the site near Cruz Conga village for the cajamarcae form of the Rufous Antpi¢a.

round CajamarcaDriving out past the airport takes you to the valley of the Chonta river and the best area to find the extremely rare and threatened Grey-bellied Comet, as well as Andean Swift, Andean Hillstar, Black Metal-tail, Tyrian Metaltail, Giant Hummingbird, Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, Morning Sierra-Finch, Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch and Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch. The main road south-east of Cajamarca goes to San Marcos. Some 7 km. before San Marcos is the village of Chugur. A trail from here takes you down a valley for some 2 km. to eventually join the main road

again lower down. The dry cactus scrub here is the best place to find the Great Spinetail, as

well as White-winged Black-Tyrant and Buff-bridled Inca-Finch. Back in Cajamarca the main road to the coast goes over Abra Gavilan

pass at 3,200 m. Birding is good along this section of road from the pass downhill with Unicolored Tapaculo, Rufous-backed Inca-Finch and the occasional Grey-bellied Comet.

Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens

lejandro Tello

Black-streaked Puffbird Malacoptila fulvoqularis

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Lulu’s Pygmy-Tyrant Poecilotriccus luluae

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Few places on earth can match northern Peru for bird diversity. From the coast to the tropical lowlands the variety of ecosystems and birding destinations provides a near endless experience, which for most avid birders takes at least two trips to fully appreci-ate. The route traverses eight political departments from the coast, across the Andes and into the Amazon lowlands with: Tumbes, Piura, Lambayeque and La Libertad along the coast, then moving east we find Cajamarca, Amazonas, San Martin and finally Loreto. These eight departments alone hold some 1,600 bird species; approximately 85% of Peru´s c.1,840 species. This impressive diversity is coupled with an outstand-ing 140 restricted-range species, from 10 endemic bird areas. Not surprisingly such diversity and endemism is due to a complex combination of climatic factors; with the El Niño and Humboldt ocean currents influencing the coast, and topographical features; the relatively low altitude Andes and inter-Andean valleys such as the Marañón, Utcubamba and Huan-cabamba, and not forge¢ing the mega-diverse tropical lowlands. However some 75 species are globally threatened (plus c.50 near-threatened species) and the route provides an interesting insight into many local conservation initiatives working to protect these birds.

�The north coast: TumbesFrom Tumbes city two habitat types are of interest; the Pacific forests and mangroves. The Pacific dry forests of Tumbes are unique in Peru - forming the southern extent of the tropical Pacific forests with influences of the Chocó ecosystem of Ecuador and Colombia. This area of forest is now protected within the Cerros de Amotape National Park (151,560 ha), with the El Caucho area providing the best site for birding. Some 230 species have been recorded here and access is relatively easy with a 2 hour drive from Tumbes city. Some of the key-species include the Gray-backed Hawk, Gray-cheeked Parakeet, Bronze-winged Parrot, Crested Guan, Blackish-headed Spinetail and Ochra-ceous A¢ila. Several species reach the southern limit of their distribution here and in the last few years the Pale-mandibled Aracari, Flame-rumped Tanager and Pallid Dove (amongst others) have been added to the

�The Northern Peru Birding Route

Tit-Spinetail and Great Inca-Finch. Heading north check out the El Tubo wetland near Malabrigo and remnant dry forest patches around Paijan for the Peruvian Plantcu¢er. Near Pacasmayo is the Cañon-cillo reserve, which is worth a visit if time allows. Note that just north of Pacasmayo is the junction for the road up to Cajamarca.

Central highlands

Gotas de Agua Reserve, Jaen�Located in north Cajamarca department, some 17 km off the main Olmos – Tarapoto highway, Jaen holds some special birds. The best site here is the Gotas de Agua reserve just outside of Jaen city. This 1,800 ha reserve holds specialties such as the Tatuapa Tinamou, Chinchipe Spinetail, Marañon Slaty-Antshrike, Li¢le Inca-Finch and Marañon Crescent-chest. The reserve has a good trail system and camp-ing or overnight facilities are available. Around Jaen, particularly exploring the roads to the north, scrub habitat will produce additional birds of interest. Back on the main highway the road goes through Bagua Grande (with Bagua Chica nearby) and continues onto the crossroad town of Pedro Ruiz. Turning off in Pedro Ruiz up the Río Utcubamba is the start (or end) of the Utcubamba - Leymebamba - Cajamarca loop, see below.

La Florida - PomacochasFrom Pedro Ruiz on the main highway the next town is Florida overlooking Pomacochas lake. This is a common overnight resting stop on the route with

several sites of interest nearby. Some 10 kilometers before the town is the excellent li¢le reserve of Huembo (32 ha and growing). Set up to protect one of the stars of the route the Marvelous Spatuletail, with feeders a¢racting this and another 11 species of hummingbird. The reserve has good trails, an interpretation center and overnight facilities. Just before Florida is the turn-off for San Lorenzo a.k.a. the Río Chido trail, well-known for the Pale-billed Antpi¢a, Large-footed Tapaculo, Rufous-capped Antshrike and Russet-mantled Sof¢ail amongst many other target species. In La Florida check out the lake for Puna Snipe, Andean Lapwing and Andean Gull. After Florida heading east, and if time allows, consider visiting Yambrasbamba and La Esperanza. Both areas are relatively new for birding, but hold the Long-whiskered Owlet and would benefit from more birders visiting to boost species lists. Shortly after La Esperanza on the main road is Abra Patricia and the down-hill drive to Moyobamba, Tarapoto and beyond.

bra PatriciaWell known in the birding world this area takes a couple of days to fully explore. The area around the abra or pass is now the Abra Patricia – Alto Nieva private reserve (1,275 ha), with first class accommo-dation available and a good base for venturing out to different sites along the road. The main a¢raction is the Long-whiskered Owlet although the reserve and adjoining Alto Mayo Protection Forest (182,000 ha)

hold an impressive array of species. Along the lower section of the road

in the protection forest is Afluente and Aguas Verdes, with interest-ing side trails to explore for Speckle-chested Piculet, Equato-

Taking the Yurimaguas road to the north-east, the road rises in

altitude as it crosses through the Cordillera Escalera Regional Conser-

vation Area (149,870 ha) and provides good birding from the

road. On the way out of Tarapoto visit the Fundo Wayra Sacha for some quiet birding away from the traffic. Further up the highway are the Ahuashiyacu Falls with good facilities and a trail leading into the forest. Birding is good from the road all along this section up to the Tunnel (1,020 m.), where the road cuts through the ridge. Top birds here include the Blackish Nightjar, Ruddy Foliage-Gleaner, Rufous-winged Antwren, Golden-headed Manakin, Do¢ed Tanager and Yellow-bellied Tanager. After the Tunnel the road continues to Yurimaguas on the banks of the Río Huallaga. This area is poorly documented but with more exploration could provide an alternative to Iquitos.

South of Tarapoto the side trail leaving Juan Guerra and the Shapaja road from the roundabout before Colombia Bridge will give Northern Slaty-Antshrike (huallagae form), Tataupa Tinamou, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Chestnut-throated Spinetail, Barred Antshrike and Mishana Tyrannulet. After Shapaja town the road continues to Pumarinri reserve overlooking the Huallaga river. Crossing Colombia Bridge the road follows the Huallaga river south to Juanjui. Good sites in this area include Puerto Lopez

on the river, then crossing the river by barge the trail goes to Lago Lindo reserve (+2,000 ha) with good accommodation and Sauce town on shores of Lake Sauce (Azul). Back on the main road traveling down to Buenos Aires the junction here will take you along Quebrada Upaquihua on the road to Santa Rosa. While a bit further south in Pucacaca you can visit the Ojos de Agua reserve (2,400 ha). Good birds at these sites include the Planalto Hermit, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Chestnut-throated Spinetail, Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Rufous Casiornis, Mishana Tyrannulet and Ashy-headed Greenlet.

�IquitosCapital of Loreto department, this bustling town is accessed mainly by flights from Lima or Tarapoto, although boats can be taken from Yurimaguas. Some 25 km south of the city is the Allpahuayo-Mishana National Reserve (58,000 ha), declared in 2004 after several new bird species were discovered in the area. Target species include the Ancient Antwren, Northern Chesnut-tailed Antbird, Allpahuayo Antbird, Pompa-dour Cotinga, Orange-crested Manakin, Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin, Mishana Tyrannulet, Zimmer's Tody-Tyrant, Cinnamon Tyrant, Cinnamo-crested Spadebill and Iquitos Gnatcatcher. Around Iquitos river islands can be visited as well as Lake Quistococha. The area has many jungle lodges and most visitors to the area will have pre-booked their accommodation here.

Utcubamba – Leymebamba – Cajamarca�

Gocta and San AntonioThis section of the north route provides some of the most spectacular scenery, with the pleasant drive along the Utcubamba river and the breathtaking crossing of the Marañón valley. The route is basically from Pedro Ruiz, mentioned before, to Cajamarca city, with some interesting optional side trips. Fourteen kilometers from Pedro Ruiz is the turn-off for Gocta Falls and Cocachimba village with accommodation available. The community here is well organized for tourism and the walk to the falls provides interesting birding, including a Cock-of-the-Rock lek and the Speckle-chested Piculet. Just after the Chachapoyas junction is the San Antonio private reserve (357 ha) with the Marvelous Spatuletail, Li¢le Woodstar, Speckle-chested Piculet, Green-and-black Fruiteater,

rial Greytail, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Ecuadorian Piedtail, Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant, Huallaga Tanager and many more.

�The Eastern Lowlands

�Rioja and Moyobamba After Aguas Verdes the land is quite flat and the next main towns and area of interest is Rioja and Moyo-bamba. Before Rioja explore the trail leading past the Yacumama recreational centre; while just entering Rioja take the side road to Posic. The scrub, savanna and forest patches at these sites provide Buckley´s Forest-Falcon, Russet-crowned Crake, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Stipe-necked Tody-Tyrant and Burnished-buff Tanager, amongst others. Before Moyobamba is the village Calzada overshadowed by an impressive solitary mountain called Morro de Calzada. A good road leads to the mountain, with a steep hiking trail to the top at 1,450 m. Good birds include the Rufous Nightjar, Blackish Nightjar, Spot-tailed Nightjar, Black-eared Fairy, Cinereous-breasted Spinetail, Mishana Tyrannulet, and White-browed Purpletuft. Between Calzada and Moyo-bamba is the private reserve of Fundo La Julianita (54 ha), with similar forest to Calzada. A detailed species list does not exist for this site although it should hold many of the same birds as Morro and the fla¢er terrain here might be be¢er for some birders.

Next stop Moyobamba, the capital of San Martín department. Flanking the town to the south is the low lying ridge of Mishquiyacu-Rumiyacu. Some 86 ha of this forested area is the private reserve of Wakanki – with easy access from the centre of Moyobamba. The reserve has a good trail system, hummingbird feeders, orchid and bromeliad garden and some 300 plus birds species. And with new overnight facilities this reserve is becoming a permanent fixture on tours. Another interesting reserve from Moyobamba is Tingana with its flooded forests. Some 11 km after Moyobamba on the road to Tarapoto is the village of El Triunfo. Just after the village is the clearly marked Quiscarrumi bridge; stop here and investigate the steep gorge under the bridge for a colony of Oilbirds. From here the road continues on to Tarapoto.

�TarapotoSituated near the confluence of the Alto Mayo and Huallaga rivers, the area has several sites of interest.

Lambayeque

�Pómac Historical SanctuaryLocated north of Chiclayo passing through Ferrañafe town, this reserve provides a double-whammy of birds and archeology in 5,887 ha of Algarrobo dominated forest. Key species include the Peruvian Plantcu¢er, Rufous Flycatcher, Tumbes Swallow and Snowy-throated Kingbird. Check out the ancient Sicán culture tombs and pyramids do¢ed throughout the forest as you bird.

Chaparrí Ecological ReserveFirmly established as the premier dry forest site in the north, Chaparrí provides great birding and excellent accommodation run by the local community in this 34,400 ha reserve. Star a¢raction is the largest protected population of the critically threatened White-winged Guan; some 25% of the global popula-tion. Other regulars include the Tumbes Tyrant, Rufous Flycatcher, Tumbes Pewee and Sulphur-throated Finch. Andean Condor and King Vulture soar in front of Mount Chaparrí, while with luck wild Spectacled Bears and other mammals can be spo¢ed around the lodge. On the way in (or out) of Chaparrí visit Tinajones reservoir for the rare coastal popula-tion of the Black-faced Ibis, Comb Duck, Spo¢ed Rail and other species. Also worth visiting from Chaparrí is the road up to Casupe and Tocmoche for the Black-cowled Saltator, Black-tailed Trogon, Henna-headed Foliage-gleaner and others.

Santa Rosa marshesBetween Pimentel and Eten, south-west of Chiclayo on the coast, are the Santa Rosa marshes, good for

Tawny-throated Do¢erel and Least Seedsnipe. Near the port of Eten on Media Luna beach is a reintroduc-tion project for the Humboldt Penguin.

La Libertad�Starting your north circuit from Trujillo will provide extra species not found on the rest of the route and allow you to skip some sites further north. The area is well-known for the Chan Chan, El Brujo and Huaca La Luna and El Sol archeological sites. From Trujillo the 4 hour drive to the highland town of Sinsicap will provide some interesting additions such as the Russet-bellied Spinetail. Just north of Trujillo is Cerro Campana with cactus-scrub habitat and some unusual species such as Cactus Canastero, Streaked

White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae

Spectacled owl Pulsatrix perspicillata

Marvelous Spatuletail Loddigesia mirabilis

Royal Flycatcher Onychorhynchus coronatus

Tumbes Tyrant Tumbezia salviniWhite-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mysticalis

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Heinz Plenge

Anahi W

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Heinz Plenge

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Tumbes Tyrant Tumbezia salvini

Marvelous SpatuletailLoddigesia mirabilis

Iquitos Gnatcatcher Polioptila clementsi

Buff-bridled Inca-FinchIncaspiza laeta

Commission for the Promotion of Perú for the Exportation and Tourismwww.peru.info

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THE NORTHERN BIRDING ROUTE �DISCOVERPERU�Perú, a true paradise of birds

Central highlands

Lambayeque

Tumbes Tyrant Tumbezia salvini White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mysticalis

Central highlands

Lambayeque

Central highlands

Lambayeque

Central highlands

Lambayeque

Central highlands

Lambayeque

Central highlands

Lambayeque

Central highlands

Lambayeque

˜discoverperu · peruvian plantcu¢er. near pacasmayo is the cañon-cillo reserve, which is worth...

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