“How hungry are you?” my inter-preter and friend, Lillian, askedas the minibus headed backtowards the city of Guilin, inChina’s south-western Guangxiprovince.

It was post-SARS and I was in China for threemonths as presenter for a TV series being filmed by anall-Chinese crew for national TV channel CCTV-9. Wehad spent a gruelling day up in the mountain riceterraces of Longsheng, a couple of hours’ drive away,and I was starving. Without thinking, I replied: “I couldeat a horse.”They nodded understandingly…and that evening, we

were tucking into horse flesh at one of the city’s horse-meat restaurants. Be careful what you wish for in China– they literally take you at your word.Such food may not appeal to animal-

loving, squeamish Westerners like me, butin many parts of China it is the norm.Throughout that and later trips aroundChina, I was offered (and it was rude not toaccept) various other “exotic” dishes.Camel hump, chicken’s feet, sparrows,snakes, fried scorpions and silk worms ona stick – even a decapitated chicken’s headwhich, as guest of honour at an officialreception hosted by the local CommunistParty chief, I had to tackle while theylooked on. After biting some skin off itsface and quickly swallowing it withoutchewing, I smiled politely and pushed theplate away, saying: “Wo chi bao la,” or Iam full. At which point the cameramangrabbed the bird by its cockscomb anddug out its eyes, slurping them down. Theyare a prized delicacy, apparently.Another time, I and the male film crew

members were served a special whisky whilethe women were given tea. Lillian refused

my attempts to share some, eventually admitting itcontained a special aphrodisiac ingredient meant onlyfor men – dog’s testicles! Liquid Viagra, in other words.On a different trip, I misheard a menu translation at atraditional restaurant in Kunming, Yunnan province, andordered what I thought were honeyed beans…only to beserved a plate of fried honey bees!All of which demonstrates that, for the adventurous

prepared to escape the well-trodden “Golden Triangle”itineraries – Beijing, Shanghai and Xi’an – when visitingChina and explore off the beaten track, the experience isa world away from what we are used to.

regional cuisinesThe Chinese love their food. They live to eat rather thaneat to live, and the phrase “Chi fan le ma?” – meaning“Have you eaten?” – is used as a form of greeting.

China has many different regional cuisines.Some, like in Sichuan, are very spicy.In the north, Mongolian hotpothelps fortify against the coldwinters.

The people of Cantonesecapital Guangzhou, nearHong Kong, are renownedfor their unusual tastes, asits Quingping Market under-lines. Starfish, dried ants,bottled deer fawns – you will

see all that and more. Even in Beijing, you can find

bizarre foods. At Wangfujing Street’snight market, a short stroll from theForbidden City, you can try the fried scor-

pions and silkworms. Beware the scorpions’stingers, though. They hurt if you prick yourlip on them, as happened to me. Thankfully,they are not venomous! Most visitors to Beijing only see the most

famous sights, which also include the

off the beaten track � hidden china and tibetoff the beaten track � hidden china and tibet

Spring 2011 tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 3736 tlm � the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Spring 2011

A taste ofChina

For many visitors, a trip to China is a whistlestop tour of its famous highlights. But, asPeter Ellegard explains, if you can stomach some of the exotic delicacies, there aremany wonders to savour around the country

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� Karst scenery, Yangshuo,Guangxi province

� Samye Monastery, Tibet

� Ethnic minority girl, Yangshuo