ogfi session xii

8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII

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OGFI

SESSION XII

INTERNATIONAL FASHION CENTRES


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What well cover..

Major fashion capitals ofthe world

Specialtiesand the creators


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Five 5 centresare:

1. Paris

2. Milan3. London

4. Tokyo5. New York


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Fashion centres emerged because of

concentrations of

Resources

Supplies

Skilled labour

Creativity


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o Designers are influenced by other

designers and vice versa

many creative people gravitate to

major creative centres


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PARIS

Required resourcesare available

Creative atmosphere

Govt. supportand encouragement

Tremendous cooperation among designers, mills

and auxiliary : shoe,hat, fur,trimmings, findings

and embroidery industries they are ready to

make very very small quantities


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PARIS

Personalised service shoes, buttons, laces, etc.

Q. Is Paris the top fashion capital in the world?

1960s strong trend towards youthful casual

styling

Emergence ofprt--porter

Socio-economic stability

Couture waspractically out of business


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PARIS

Fashion hub presence ofall main fashion offices

*many famous fashion designersarent French!

(Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo, etc.)


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THE COUTURE

fine custom dressmaking made to measure as

per individual client

Today, couture means original (pattern + fabric)

Couturier Vs. Couturiere


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Businessis called Maison (HOUSE)

Salon an elegantshowroom where clients can

see the collection and order. Leadtime usually

several weeks and takes 2 to 3 fittings

THE COUTURE


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haute couture

high dressmaking

Hi-fashion (U.S.A.)

highest quality fabric and workmanship

Only those who are in the selective couture

creation list ofF

d

rationFranaise de la

Couture

are considered members ofthe haute couture

# Couturier membership Dept. of Industry


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Fdration Franaise de la Couture has 3 branch

Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne for

promotion and protection of couture. To be a member, one

should have at least 1 atelier in Paris with minimum 15 staff

Chambre Syndicale de Prt--Porter association

of RTW branches of couture + best of Prt--Porter

Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine

association of menswear industries ofthe couture

haute couture


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French Designers

YSL king of couture major influence

trendsetter restrained,sophisticated good

sense oftiming

Hubert de Givency,Pierre Cardin, EmanuelUngaro, Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel), Marc

Bohan(Dior), Andr Courrges, Carven, Grs (Alix

Grs),Guy Laroche, Hanae Mori, Jean Partou,

Jean-Louis Scherrer,Lanvin, Lecoanet-Hemant,Louis Feraud,Nina Ricci, Per Spook, Philippe Venet,

Pierre Balmain, Ted Lapidus, Torrent


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French Designers

Ateliers workshop

Boutique retail shops for RTW & accessories

# large firms may have separate designer for

couture and Prt--Porter

(1)flou (dressmaking),

(2)tailleur (tailoring for suits & coats)


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Frenchterms

large houses modelistes

toile sample garment

premier datelier production manger or chief

technician

midinettes saleswoman/seamstress

apprentices


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Governmentsupport

French T.V. free exposure

Funding for overseasshowing of couture

Publicity helps generate exports + licensing

business (couturiers export 55% oftheir

production)


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Licensing

Perfumes + stars

Diversification

Example

Pierre Cardin 400 licenses menswear, womens

wear, kids wear, from UG to coats,hatsto shoes,

swimsuitsto skiwear,accessories,jewellery,

eyeglasses,sheetsand towels, ceramics, furniture,

and even bicycle!!


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Licensing

Licensing popular with couture as well as

RTW

Promotion w/o exposure to financial risks


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Future of couture

Shiftin economic priorities

Today, couture shares 4000 private clients

worldwide!?

Couture usually loses money but getshuge publicity

RTW + licensing bringsin the footfalls & the moolah


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Prt--Porter (RTW)

gets mostattention today

prt designershave become the innovators

their showsare earlier than couture showings

Karl Lagerfeld star of Prt--Porter' (Chanel, Fendi)

YSL Rive Gauche RTW collection (left bank of

river Seine)


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Prt--Porter (RTW)


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Prt--Porter' (RTW)

Prt designers Sonia Rykiel,Kenzo, Jean-Charles

de Castelbajac, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler,

Chantal Thomass, Anne-Marie Beretta,Jean-Paul

Gaultier, and Angelo Tarlazzi

Prt designersare further knocked off

Ton-Sur-Ton : world famous less expensive

sportswear


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Fashion center in Paris

Avenue Montaigne & Fauborg Saint-Honor :

center ofsalon, boutique and ateliers

Sentier district of Paris center of Prt--Porter'

manufacturing


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MILAN

Fashion industry < Paris fashion

Impact on international fashion has grown

significantly

1940 only 30 manufacturers ofapparel

Almosttotal shift from custom made RTW

fashion is 2nd biggest industry after tourism


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MILAN

Italian look distinct richness or casual elegance

Wool,silk, leather enriched by colour and texture

combinations


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MILAN

Reasons for success

Global outlook,innovative products, co-operation

among supply chain components

North-Central region around Milan : 80% prodn

Other noted fashion cities Rome and Florence

Milan is center for moda pronta (RTW)

Milano Collezioni organised by Italian Fashion

Industry Association


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MILAN

Famous designers

Armani, Gianfranco Ferre, Gianni Versace,

Mariuccia Mandelli (Krizia), Tai & Rosita Missoni,

Laura Biagiotti, Luciano Soprano, Enrico Coveri

Prominent manufacturers

Fendi Sisters, UCB (3000 Stores), Sportmax,

Complice, Jenny,Byblos,Ferragamo, Trussardi


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MILAN

MIPEL leather goods fair

IDEACOMO fabric fair

Ideabiella mens fabric fair

Centro Mode @ Florence runspitti filati (yarnsand

knits)

Pitti Uomo tailored mens clothing


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MILAN

Pitti Bimbo childrens clothing

Rome center of Italian couture

Most couturiershave RTW lines


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MILAN

Italian fashion rose to prominence due to export

Started with leather goods knits everything!!

Today Italysspecialty jackets, coats,tailored

garments

Italy top 3 textile and apparel exporter

Buyers of Italian fashion Germany, France

followed by U.S.A.


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LONDON

Couture has virtually disappeared

Resurgence of swinging London of 1960s

Manufacturing hasspread all over UK

Young designer from all over the world study at

UKs famousart colleges they stay back to start

on their own or work for some other designer


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LONDON

Top Designers

Betty Jackson, Katharine Hamnett,Wendy,

Dagworthy,Jasper Conran,Nigel Preston, Maxfield

Parrish,Body Map, John McIntyre, Jean Muir,

Zandra Rhodes, Caroline Charles


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LONDON

UK hasa long tradition of clothing like riding

wear,tweedjackets,trench coats, cardigans from

Burberry & Jaegar

Menswear Savile Row tailors

Prince Charles Gieves & Hawkes, #1 Savile Row

New mens designers Paul Smith, Charlie Allen,

Roger Dak


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LONDON

Savile Row gives 3 fits

1. Traditional, form fitting

2. Squarish, conservative

3. Slim,trendy, continental fit


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TOKYO

5th fashion capital

Japanese women until WW II Kimono

1950s & 60s women withjobs became eager for

western outfits (practicality)

Japanese apparel industry made line-for-line copies

of western fashion


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TOKYO

1970s Kenzo Takada & Hanae Mori

studios/showsin Paris

Japanese designs unusual shapes,sombre colour

combo,asymmetrical balance,use of natural fibers

Japan is textile capital ofthe world


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TOKYO

Top Designers

Issey Miyake, Kansai Yamamoto, Yohji Yamamoto,

Rei Kawakubo (Comme Des Garon)


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TOKYO

RENOWN

Renown isthe largest manufacturer in Japan, 3rd

largestin the world. Levi Straussisthe largest

followed by Blue Bell

Ithas Japanese manufacturing rights for over 40

international brands (Perry Ellis, Norma Kamali,

etc.)


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EUROPE

Germany

Decentralised

Berlin, Munich, Krefeld and Dsseldorf major

production center

Publication Hamburg

Accurate and dependable technical production


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EUROPE

Germany

Designers ESCADA, MONDI

Huge fashion fairsin Dsseldorf, Munichand

Cologne


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EUROPE

Spain

Govt. subsidised alta costura (haute couture)

Madrid H.Q. of womensand kids RTW

association

Leather products, moderate price knitwear

Massproduce for French companies


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EUROPE

Scandinavia

Denmark more conservative apparel

Sweden, Finland, Norway more youthful styling

Copenhagen Scandinavian Clothing Council


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EUROPE

Eastern Europe

Factoriesin Poland, Yugoslavia, Hungary and

Romaniaproduce for companies of France,

Germany and UK

Yugoslaviaalso triesto promote its own fashioninternationally

RUSSIA DOM MODELE


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Israel

Production isspread in and around Tel Aviv

Textile/apparel = 12% ofindustrial output

Exports mostly to UK, DE, FR and Denmark

Well known for its leather wear


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Latin America

Have important raw material

Large supply of low-cost labour

Govt. supports manufacturing and exportsto

North American countries


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The Orient

H.K. known for fast, low cost, made-to-measure

dress making and tailoring

Many western manufacturershave factoriesin

Orient or they have an agent for monitoring

production/quality


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Canada

Fashion is 4th largest employer

Montreal isthe main center of garmentindustry

Toronto 2nd important followed by Winnipeg and

Vancouver

Produces full range ofproducts cheapto veryexpensive

Outwear > furs > leather goods > childrens wear


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Canada

Top Designers

Alfred Sung,Wayne Clark, Leo Chevalier, Harry

Parnass & Nicola Pelly (Parachute), Margaret

Godfrey, Jean-Claude Poitras, Robert Chernin,

Marilyn Brooks And John Warden


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New York

American RTWis largestand most competitive

Uses mostinnovative marketing methods

N.Y. garments center because suppliesand

skilled labour isavailable


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New York

7th Avenue district

Origin of most American fashion

6000 garment firms

2/3rd ofall American made womens + kids clothesare

either designed or made here

Plushshowroomsin front, cluttered design room@back

No. of large firmshave been continuously increasing


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New York

Top Designers

Calvin Klein, Geoffrey Beene, Norma Kamali,Ralph Lauren

LizC

laiborne mostsuccessfully publicly tradedcorporation in fashion industry

Bill Blass, Adolfo, Louis Dell Olio for Anne Klein,Kasper,

Mary Mc.Fadden, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera,

Donna Karan, Adrienne Vittadini, Zoran, Shamask,

Michael Kors, Tarquin


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New York

Mainstay of USA RTW + sportswear

N.Y.C. > L.A. > Chicago > Philadelphia > Boston >

Dallas

N.Y. > Pennsylvania > New Jersey > Massachusetts


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California

2/3rd firmsare located in L.A.

LEVI STRAUSS San Francisco

California designer mostinnovative in sportswear

and swimwear

Chicago & Rochester menswear

Seattle menswear (Generra, Union Bay)


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California

Philadelphia Kidswear, ladies dresses

Dallas moderate price sportswear

St. Louis junior dresses

Miami resort wear

Boston outerwear

ogfi session xii

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