oleon a natural chemistrypersonal care

OLEONA NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care

J&J – BSI SEMINAR 14th May 2012

A fruitfull collaboration

On 10 specialty products;

Radia 7750; Isoamy LaurateRadia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleateRadia 7758; Sorbitan IsostearateRadia 7447; PEG-8 DiisostearateRadia 7687; Neopentylglycol DiisostearateRadia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7373; TriisostearinRadia 7380; Trimethylol Propane TriisostearateRadia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearateRadia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

WHO IS OLEON?

OleonOleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural OilsNatural Oils.

Oleon is a subsidiary of the SofiproteolSofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.

Core business of Oleon

BiotechnologiesSeeds

PesticidesOther services for agriculture Growers

Collect of oilseeds and protein rich

seeds Crushing

OilsFood

Renewable energies

Renewable chemicals

Oil cake

Animal health and breeding

Animal nutrition

Breeders Transformation and animal productions

Growers and breeders

Oilseeds division

Food and animal sector division

Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern

International character of Oleon

5

Oleon Americas

Oleon Sales Offices

6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang)

Oleon HQ

Oleon Northern Europe

Oleon GmbH

Oleon Southern Europe

Oleon France

Oleon UK

Oleon Asia Pacific

Oleon China

Values of Oleon

Quality focusCOSMOS/Ecocert

Kosher/Halal

Technical involvement

Application research &

Product improvement

in R&D lab

Environmental concern

RSPO member

Iso14001 certification

Innovation driven

Investments in

innovation centre

Oleon is an RSPO member

Among its principles

…Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families.

…No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations

Oleon is member since 2007

Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria

RSPO

Promoting the Growth And Use of Sustainable Palm Oil

Our Chemistry.

Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…

From nature to oleochemistry

Containing

From oleochemistry to consumer product

HydrolysesGlycerol Fatty acid

Esterification

EsterFatty acid Alcohol building block

A glance into the Radia building blocks

Alcohol-function- OH

+ =

INCI

PolyglycerolPolyglyceryl-3 stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate

Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycolPolysorbate 20Polysorbate 60Polysorbate 80

Sorbitan

Sorbitan LaurateSorbitan Laurate

Fatty acid – function-COOH

Sorbitan OleateSorbitan trioleate

C8/C10Lauric acid

Myristic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidOleic acid

Isostearic acid

Sorbitan isostearateIsoamyl Isoamyl laurate

IsopropylIsopropyl myristateIsopropyl palmitate

Isopropyl isostearate

Pentaerythrityl

Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracaprate

Pentaerythrithyl stearatePentaerythrithyl tetrastearate

Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate

Propylene glycolPropylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate

Propylene glycol stearate

Glycerol

caprylic/capric triglycerideGlyceryl laurate (90%)

Glyceryl stearate

Glyceryl oleate…

WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiers

Characteristics

Radia portfolio

Eye catchers

Emollients

Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents

In the picture

Radia 7887

Radia 7750

Isostearic derivates

• Stands for: Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance• Established for: Non-ionic emulsifiers• Formula: HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule]• Purpose: Scale to performance of the emulsifier

High HLB = hydophylic typeLow HLB = lipophylic type

Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin

FA function

Hydrophylic part

Lipophylic part

High HLB

FA function

Hydrophylic part

Lipophylic part

Low HLB

High HLB Water solubleOil in Water emulsion

Low HLB Oil (Fat) solubleWater in oil emulsion

Radia

Radiasurf 7755

Radiamuls 2253Radia 7887

Radiasurf 7758Radiamuls 2155

Radiasurf 7145Radiasurf 7141

Radiasurf 7443Radiasurf 7402Radiasurf 7125

Radiamuls 2248Radiasurf 7447Radiasurf 7444Radiasurf 7454

Radiasurf 7473Radiasurf 7403Radiasurf 7423Radiasurf 7404Radiamuls 2157Radiasurf 7147Radiasurf 7137

Characteristics: HLB versus performance

Characteristics O/W emulsifier

Mixing unlike oils together

Making W/O emulsions

• Making self-emulsifying oils

• Wetting Powders

Making O/W emulsions using surfactant blends

•Making detergent solutions (HLB 13-15)

•Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying) into water (10-18)

HLB123

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

121314

15

1617181920

WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollients

CharacteristicsRadia portfolioEye catchers

Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agentsIn the picture

Radia 7887Radia 7750Isostearic derivates

… softens and smoothes the skin… results in elastic and lubricated skin

An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology:SpreadingAbsorptionGreasinessStickinessSoftnessSmoothness

Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect

An emollient can be characterised by physico chemical terminology

Low viscosity Viscosity = light feel & good spread

Branched structure Liquid means easy to handle = Cold processing

Light feel

Saturated structure Chemical stability No off odour, no off colour

Low molecular weight light & dry feel quick absorption

High polarity (Harkin) Good spread

Low contact angle Wetting capacity

Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry

WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollientsStabilizers &Pearlescent body agentsIn the picture


How commercial is a W/O-emulsion?

Applications:Sun Screen milksSkin protective baby creamsMassage milks Lotions and creams

For dry and sensitive skinHand & feet careNight creams

Properties:Skin protectionLong lasting moisturizationResemblance to the natural skin protective barrierImproved spreading and penetration of active ingredientsReduced preservative concentration

Radia 7887: W/O emulsion

COLD PROCESSING

equals cost reduction by means of

…time

No heating time

No cooling time

…energy

No need for melting

…amount

No additional co-emulsifier

Low concentration

T (°C)

+/- 80

20

1 2 3

Homogenize4 5

Hot Process

Cold Process

Time

T(°C)

20

1 2 3

Homogenize

4

5

Time

How do you benefit of a cold process method?

Radia 7887: cold process

POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE

Radia 7887: its building blocks

Glycerol

Saponification of a vegetable oil

Rapeseed oil

Ricinoleate

Extraction & destillation

Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae)

Sorbitol

Hydrogenation & filtration

Wheat/Maize

Isostearate

Saponification, neutralization &

destillation

Rapeseed oil

The identity of Radia 7887

How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients?

• Increase of water phase %

• Using emollients with higher viscosity

• Homogenization (sharing force)

Radia 7887: viscosity

Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream

Test formulation W/O

Oil phaseOil 10 %, 18% or 30%Emulsifier 1% or 4%

Water phase

Glycerol 4%MgSO4.7H2O 0,7%Preservative q.s.Water to 100%

Low external phase = 10%High external phase = 30%Low surfactant = 1%High surfactant = 3.5%

Evaluation methods

1) Centrifuge stability(3x15min @ 4000rpm)

2) Temperature stability8 weeks @ 50°C3 months@ 40°C>4 months@ RTFreeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT

3) Viscosity stability ( mPas)Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle

After 1 dayAfter 3 months

4) AppearanceVisual aspect

Stability testing parameters?

Radia 7887: stability

What about stability performance?

• A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with…MCT…paraffin oils up to 18%

• A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with…MCT…sunflower oil…paraffin oils

• A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation.

• R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!

Radia 7887: stability

•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w

•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3.6

•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0.5

•Radia 7363 •Triolein (= Sunflower oil) •18

•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •4

•water •Aqua •To 100

•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.8

•C •preservative •0.7

Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2

Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

Radia 7887: formulations


•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •4

•Radia 7208 •Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate •2

•Radia 7732 •Isopropyl Palmitate •11

•Sweet almond oil •2

•Avocado oil •2



•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5


W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3

•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)

•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading



•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3,6

•Olive Oil •15

•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0,5

•Radia 7500 •Cetyl Palmitate •2



•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5


•ZnO •10

Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1

•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)

•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading


Radia 7887: the movie

WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollientsStabilizers &Pearlescent body agentsIn the picture


The identity of Radia 7750

Radia 7750: a green chemical

Radia 7750: wetting properties

Usage level

Often used as primary oil : 4-80%.

Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.

O/W and W/O emulsion creams: 5-20%.

Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 %

Natural hair care: 1-5%

Radia 7750: practical use

WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollientsStabilizersPearlescent body agentsIn the picture


Isostearic derivates: Characteristics

Isostearic derivates are saturated:Chemical stabilityNo need for antioxidant

Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil.

Isostearic derivates are branched:Excellent emolliency

Non-greasy afterfeelHighly substantive lipid filmSoft skinfeelGlossy appearance

Isostearic derivates: Characteristics

Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues):

No crystallization

Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives

Isostearic derivates are liquid:Cold emulsion methodPracticial useA solution for heat sensitive productsA solution for challenging formulations

Isostearic derivates: Portfolio

INCI Radia

Isostearyl alcohol Radianol 1980

Isostearic Acid Radiacid 908/909

Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7687

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7181

Triisostearin Radia 7373

Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate Radia 7380

Isopropyl Isostearate Radia 7739

INCI: TRIISOSTEARIN

Performance: Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigmentsSolvating functionality Modifies melting points

Sensorial: Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient

Speciality: ‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification properties

Applications: Lipsticks (long lasting)Colour cosmetics

Radia 7373

Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373

Oleon Head OfficeAssenedestraat 2

9940 Ertvelde - BelgiumT: +32 (0)9 341 10 11F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00E: [email protected]

oleon a natural chemistrypersonal care

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