organic cotton accelerator - textile exchangefarmhub.textileexchange.org/upload/learning zone/cotton...
TRANSCRIPT
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Meeting Of The Global Organic Cotton Community
A Pre-Conference to IFOAM Organic World Congress 2014, Istanbul
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14:00 - 14:15 Welcome
14:15 – 14:45 The Future of Organic Cotton
14:45 – 15:05 Seed Security and Managing Contamination
15:05 - 15:25 The “Syprobio” Project
15:25 - 15:45 Coffee Break
15:45 - 17:00 Tabletop Discussions
17:00 - 17:15 Feedback to the Group
17:15 - 17:30
Agreed Actions and Next Steps
Agenda
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Deepika Malik, C&A Foundation
Please see the C&A Foundation website for more information: http://candafoundation.org/
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Andrea Bischof, Helvetas
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Global Organic Cotton Community
3rd Face to Face Meeting
www.organiccotton.org
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This platform is a joint
initiative by HELVETAS
Swiss Intercooperation and
Textile Exchange financed
by SECO (and ICCO)
www.organiccotton.org
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Background • Online platform existing since 2009
• Facilitated e-discussions
• Topics defined by the community members
• 834 community members
• 50% Europe, 23% America, 18% Asia, 9% Africa
• 20% brands & retailers, 20% NGO, 10% processors &
traders, 6% producers, 5% designers, 5% certifier, 7%
research, 17% others
www.organiccotton.org
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www.organiccotton.org
1st Face to Face Meeting
World Congress on Organic Cotton
Interlaken, Switzerland 2009
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www.organiccotton.org
2nd Face to Face Meeting
Textile Exchange Annual Conference
Barcelona, Spain 2011
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3rd Face to Face Meeting
World Congress IFOAM, Istanbul, Turkey 2014
www.organiccotton.org
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• Match supply and demand of OC
• Harvest estimates
• Water consumption in OC production
• Non-GM seed availability
• Integrity of OC value chain
• Sourcing options for small brands & designers
• Access to finance for OC projects
• Implications of India's export ban
• Dye stuff suitable for OC
• Price trends
• Incluencing consumer habits
• … www.organiccotton.org
e-mail based discussions on issues
that affect you…
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Summaries of e-disussions
All summaries are
available in the library
of
www.organiccotton.org
as „key learnings“
www.organiccotton.org
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New topics for e-discussions
Any suggestion for a topic to discuss?
Just let us know!
www.organiccotton.org
Please write your topic(s) and possible
expert names on the flip chart in the
break
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• read new articles and
reports
• see the latest figures of
databases
• find links to other online
resources
Information Resources
www.organiccotton.org
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Community interactions
www.organiccotton.org
• participate in online
dialogues
• share news and key
documents
• attend face-to-face
meetings
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Why should you get involved? • receive quick responses to your questions about hot
issues
• save time gathering information about organic cotton
• keep up with the latest news
• be part of a constantly evolving network of people
working in the same field of interest
• participate in shaping strategies in the global organic
cotton sector
www.organiccotton.org
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Register now!
www.organiccotton.org
Join us in knowledge sharing because
knowledge is more valuable when it is shared!
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
The Future of Organic Cotton
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Liesl Truscott Textile Exchange
Organic Cotton Update
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Vision. We envision a global textile industry that restores the environment and enhances lives.
Mission. We inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable
practices in the textile value chain. We focus on minimizing the harmful impacts and maximizing the
positive effects of the global textile industry.
TE is a global not-for-profit organization with a diverse membership – servicing all members of the textile value chain.
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Our focus is on: Raw materials
Integrity Value chains
Our core expertise and long-term experience is in organic cotton.
We now take these competencies to a wider sphere of influence while maintaining our core competency in organic cotton.
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a sample of TE member companies
G-Star Raw logo.pdf 1/14/10 11:24:11 AM
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farm engagement highlights - 2014
INFORM Online “Farm Hub”
Organic Cotton Market Report (overview)
Organic Cotton Market Analysis (deep dive)
CONNECT Biofach (Nuremberg)
IFOAM Organic World Congress (Istanbul)
Munich Fabric Start (Munich)
TE Annual Conference (Portland)
Organic Cotton Round Table (Portland)
LEAD NEW “About Organic Cotton” consumer-facing microsite
NEW Global Life Cycle Assessment for OC cultivation
NEW Sustainability Impact Assessment Tool
NEW Organic Cotton Accelerator
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• In 2012-13 Textile Exchange
estimated global production of
organic to be around 109,826 MT
fiber.
• Organically grown fiber made up
around 0.4% of global supply.
• 74% of OC was grown in India.
• The majority of the remaining
quarter was grown in China, Africa,
and Turkey.
74%
9%
8%
6% 2% 1% 0.5%
production profile
24
Africa: Benin, Burkina Faso, Mali, Senegal, Tanzania, & Uganda
China
EMENA & CA: Egypt, Israel, Kyrgyzstan & Tajikistan
India: Previously reported as “South Asia” including Pakistan
Latin America: Brazil, Nicaragua, Paraguay & Peru. Early trials in Colombia.
Turkey
USA
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production trends
• Although the graph reflects a lag in actual
impact, the financial crisis of 2008, introduction
of Tracenet in India, seed shortage, civil unrest
in Syria, and the rise of BCI (as an easier entry
standard) resulted in a sharp decline.
• While demand for organic cotton is increasing,
a lack of sector and market organization,
investment and incentivization for farmers, and
challenges associated with niche production, is
resulting in a diminishing supply.
TOTAL
India
China
Africa
Turkey
USA
EMENA & CA*
Latin America**
2004-5 2012-13
50,000MT
250,000MT
• TE has been tracking organic cotton production since
2004.
• Early on, Turkey was the dominant producer of
certified organic cotton.
• From 2006, Indian production grew exponentially. By
2008 India far outstripped production in all other
regions.
• By 2010 India was responsible for 74% of global
organic cotton production. Syria was 2nd in the league
table (reported in EMENA & CA*).
25
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the challenges
Decline in supply is due to a number of challenges facing the sector including:
• Market signals are not getting through/supply is not responding to demand
• Lack of economies of scale and value chain complexities
• Inability to access quality seed suitable for low-input agriculture
• Prevalence of GMOs in many organic-producing areas and potential for contamination
• Competition from new easier-entry sustainability initiatives
• Supply chain disharmony (between cultivation and market cycles)
• Timeliness of payments and “leakage” of organic into conventional cotton supply chains
If unaddressed, these issues will lead to a serious supply shortfall very soon.
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Alongside supply, Textile Exchange has been tracking Organic Cotton consumption (demand) since 2004. While demand data is more difficult to
collect (and as a result less accurate) the above trend line gives a fairly good account of what is happening in the market and a clear indication of growth.
(NOTE: Analysis is based on data disclosure.)
2004-5 2012-13
20,000
120,000
2004-5 2012-13
2
12
Organic Cotton Retail Sales (USD Billion)
the demand
Organic Cotton Fiber Consumption (MT)
27
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current scenario
There is currently a DISCONNECTION IN THE SUPPLY OF ORGANIC COTTON AND THE DEMAND.
While supply decreases the demand for organic cotton continues to grow. We have now
reached the point where demand will be greater than supply.
Supply
Demand
2004-5 2012-13
50,000MT
250,000MT
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could this happen?
GLOBAL ORGANIC COTTON DEMAND IS INCREASING, YET PRODUCTION IS NOT KEEPING PACE.
According to insights into demand targets, a growth of 19 per cent per year could be
conservative. (Note, historic growth over the past five years averages 32 per cent).
Supply
Demand
2008-09 2019-20
100,000MT
2012-13
Equilibrium 200,000MT
300,000MT
400,000MT
So why – if demand increasing – is supply declining?
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Marci Zaroff Portico/Under The Canopy
introducing the Chetna Coalition
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Chetna Coalition: Our Pilot
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Current Organic Cotton Sourcing Practices
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Chetna Coalition: Collaboration & Shared Value
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Our Coalition Efforts
Communications
3DPNL
Value Chains
Programs
Work Streams & Activities:
Communication tools for value chain partners, customer facing marketing assets , branding and logo development.
Works on refining three dimensional assessment tool, reporting structure, and strengthening verification of financial, social, and environmental metrics.
Value chain solutions for region specific lint sourcing, traceability, product versatility, and long term commitments.
Development and implementation of programs and procedures to effectively and responsibly address sustainable development needs within active coalition regions. ie. Climate change adaptability.
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Work Stream Coordination & Responsibilities
• Work streams are coordinated by work stream leads
• Each brand representative chooses a work stream that best fits their skill set or expertise
• Representatives agree to provide one hour of work per month on their chosen work stream and to take part in a work stream call approximately once every two months
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Coordination Team
• General Coalition activities are coordinated by the Coordination Team
• The Coordination Team is composed of work stream leads, producer group leadership, facility representation, and Coalition administration
• The Coordination Team holds a conference call monthly to review progress
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Coalition Pilot Success Factors
Qualitative Quantitative
Decrease in % leakage of organic cotton into the market
Decrease to 35% by 2017
Increase in total sales of organic cotton through the coalition
Increase by 10% year on year
Increase in total farmer household profitability (above income from increased organic sales)
Increase by 25% by 2017
Increase in the number of organic farmers in Coalition supported villages
Increasing number of farmers year on year (number relating to the growth in sales)
Decrease in Chetna marketing and sales costs from increases in efficiency and decrease in certification costs
Decrease year on year by at least 5%
Increase in total area of organic area Increase year on year 20%
Increase in farm productivity 35% increase in productivity by 2017
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Coalition Pilot Calendar of Events
Objective Indicator
September 25 • Members sign up to work streams and hold first work stream group call led by work stream lead
November 1 • Procurement projections collated and organized by Chetna Organic for all participating coalition members by October 2014
• Sustainable sourcing projections secured by MOU signed by brands
November 9-12 • Textile Exchange Textile Sustainability Conference (Portland Oregon USA)
Mid November • Chetna organic cotton harvest • Secure commitments of 400 MT of lint cotton for 2014/15 harvest; c. 25% or 100MT, under long term
commitments • Procurement of lint by Chetna producer group • 100% production from Lebed and Dhanora (pi) procured by coalition and traced through supply chain in line
with harvest
December 1 • Establish and pilot traceability and source separation program from coalition villages to garment production.
December 25 • 3DPNL analysis of full value chain
January 10 (TBD) • Coalition members attend and promote Chetna birthday in January 2015 - depending on harvest
February 20 • 3DPNL report available for brands
March 15 • Coalition establishes as a legal entity • Strategic intervention plan established based upon 3DPNL
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Key Deliverables & Industry Learnings
• Case Studies - Direct village sourcing and traceability - Direct premium payments and cost saving potentials - Demand-coalition frameworks and administration - Regional lint sourcing to global value chain mapping and potentials - Communications framework for holistic community sustainability - Coalition intervention for climate change adaptation • Reports - By the end of year one of coalition activity, we will produce two comprehensive reports on the holistic financial, social, and environmental evaluation community sustainability of two villages in two different states in central India, Lebed and Dhanora (Pi)
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Governance
• The Coalition is a consensus based, democratic decision making body with one-brand-one-vote representation
• Coalition pilot is externally funded and independently operated by members
• Group decisions made on formal proposals can be brought by any member
• Consensus decisions must represent the majority of member brands with absent votes counted as pro- adoption
• Brands may raise an absolute objection on a voting result, whereby the Coalition will host a re-vote on a draft compromise
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Mans Lanting Lanting Agri-Consulting
Expert Advisor TE Seed Task Force
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Presentation Istanbul:
seed task force,
preliminary results
survey H. Lanting, E. Nuijten
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Objectives of the survey
Find out in which parts of the world organic cotton seed is difficult to obtain
Find out how important contamination of organic cotton with GM cotton is in different parts of the world for different actors in the chain
Get an impression whether it would be required to set up organic seed production programs and in which regions
Prioritize the regions
Get an idea how much a seed program would cost
Get an idea about the developments in the market according to the different actors in the chain
Get an idea how much congruence in expectations of development of the market exists between various actors in the chain
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(Results omitted until finalised)
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Abel Gouba Organic Cotton Programme, Burkina Faso
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Association suisse pour la coopération internationale
06 BP 9051, Quartier Zogona, 488 rue Pougl-Maka
Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Tél. +226 50 36 37 73, Fax +226 50 36 01 67
[email protected],www.helvetas.bf
GOCCP: Organic and FT cotton Programme in Burkina Faso - Bio-intensification system
HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
HELVETAS Swiss Intercooperation
Abel GOUBA,
Team Leader Rural Economy,
Burkina Faso
Istanbul 11.10.14
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HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
• Cotton Farmer Unions of Burkina Faso (UNPCB) • Implementer of organic production part (since 2004) • 9‘300 organic producers (40% : 3‘720 women)
Localisation
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HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
The challenges of the intensification:
• Low yields and economic rentability of the organic production system
• Technical extension tools not applied or only partly adoped
• Inadequate learning methods at producer level and not specifique to areas and production systems: too theoretical tools, inadequate for target group etc.
Context and justification
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HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
Main objective: to offer appropriate support and extension approaches to increase productivity
Specific objectives :
• Analysis of the production methodes
• Selection of best practices as per type of farm
• Developpment and proposition of approches and didactical tools for an adjusted extension.
Objective of the study
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HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
• Data base of the programme
• Two provinces : Fada and Dano
• Focus of analysis: Smallholder farms
• Interviews: 94 producers interviewed:
- 47 as per zone, of which 23 with yields < 200 kg/ha and 24 with yields > 600 kg/ha (campaign 2011-2012)
• Income per farm
• Participatory workshops to share results
• Proposition of practices, approches and didactical tools
Methodology
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HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
Three levels that limit the intensification of
the organic production
Framework condition for the
organic sector
Production factors
Application of technologies
Main results
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Framework conditions of the value chain
• Late supply of seeds;
• No transparency of input prices and sales price for cotton (for the farmers)
• Late collection (after the conventional cotton) and late payments of organic cotton
• Absence of valorisation of organic rotation crops
• Extension staff in place but advices too standardized and focussing only on certification
• Funding of internal control staff not internalized (not sustainable)
→ farmers leaving organic production
HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
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Production factors
• Differences noticed in production factors between the yield groups
• Influencing factors on yields :
– Level of equipement → influences early planting and crop management
– Disposabiliy of men power → organic is very demanding because of weeding
– Animal husbandry → disposability of organic material
– Disposability of land → possibility for fallow, investment in soil fertility, soil conservation techniques, soil quality, etc.
HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
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Application of technologies
• Short rotations: cotton/cereals – few legumes • Production of compost :
– Availability of organic manure: • Sufficient animals, more intensive management • Collections near to water points • Collections close to the herders (peulhs)
– Compost ditch or pile not decomposed: • Principale limits : availabaility of water, number of
« turns » and manner of protection → compost not mature, little fertile and provoking weed preasure
– Soil management (application of organic matter, weeding, accumulating the soil around the plant)
• Plant protection (alternative products)
HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
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Actions taken and results
HELVETAS Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
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Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
Caracterization of farms and strategies
A) Non equipped farms: very small surface, no working animals no animals or small ruminants, < 3 ha, < 1 ha/ workforce
B) Middle farms: equipped, middle size surface, limited number of workforce 1-2 cattles + small ruminants, cultivator/hiller or plough, >3-7 ha, >1 ha/ workforce
C) Well equipped farm, big surface, important livestock > 2 cattles, small ruminants, all equippment needed, > 5 ha, > 2 ha / workforce
Intensifiaction strategy for all types of farms taking into account the typology of the farm, the consulting approach and the production factors.
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Programme Coton biologique et équitable Burkina Faso
Results of strategy implementation
• Efforts to improve the functioning of the programme
• Extension system (production factors, environement)
• Adoption of new production pratices and reduction of workload (fertilization, production managment)
• Visual didactical tools, formations, visits
• Business plans as per farm type
• Acquisition system for equipments in place
• Agroforestry, livestock integration, extension of crop rotation with legumes
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Results of strategy implementation
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
Ioba Fada Tenko Ziro
2012
2013
2014
0
50000
100000
150000
200000
250000
300000
350000
Ioba Fada Ziro Tenko
Marge brute en FCFA Coton
2012
2013
2014
Average yield of cotton
Average yield 0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
Maïs Sorgho Coton
2012
2013
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Coffee Break
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Tabletop Discussions: 3 tables, 3 topics, 3 discussions
Please observe the above guidelines during discussions
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Discussion Feedback
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(C) Textile Exchange 2014
Thank You!