ORIENTAL & FINE AREA RUG CLEANINGTECHNICIAN COURSE

NEVER STOP LEARNING, BECAUSE LIFE NEVER STOPS TEACHINGEddie Rochester | RCT | April 1, 2016

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTIONPurpose of Course............................1Brief History....................................1-2Rug Producing Countries...............2-5Liability and Rug Value.......................6

CHAPTER 2: FIBERSNatural Fibers...............................7-11 Protein Fibers...............................7 Cellulosic (Bast) Fibers...........8-10Modified Fibers Synthetic Fibers..........................11Rug Fiber Performance....................11Potential Problems......................12-13

CHAPTER 3: SOILINGDefinition..........................................15Classes............................................15Causes............................................15

CHAPTER 4: INSPECTION AND DOCUMENTATIONPurpose...........................................17Categories.......................................17Identification (Tagging of) Rugs........17Colorfastness Test............................18Customer Briefings..........................19

CHAPTER 5: RUG CLEANING BASICSChemistry of Cleaning............................21-22Principles of Cleaning............................22-23

CHAPTER 6: CLEANING PROCEDURESCleaning Facility Procedures ......................25Specific Cleaning Procedures: ..............25-39 Oriental Rugs...................................26-27 Chain-stitch and Needlepoint.................28 Braided Rugs.........................................29 Flokati Rugs...........................................30 Custom Designer Rugs..........................31 (Bast) Rugs............................................32 Hooked Rugs.........................................33 Silk Rugs..........................................34-35 Skins and Leathers................................36 Fringe Cleaning and Correction........37-39 CHAPTER 7: THE WRAP UPGrooming..................................................41Final Inspection...........................................41Rolling and Wrapping..................................41Delivery.......................................................41

Front Door 4 ...............................................42

COURSE OUTLINE

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CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTIONWhy Take the Rug Cleaning Technician Course?

The purpose of this course is to educate our rug cleaning personnel in construction identification and cleaning techniques used in each of Stanley Steemer International’s Oriental and Fine Area Rug Cleaning Facilities. Cleaning theory, practical application, and hands on cleaning will prepare our rug professionals to handle all phases of Area Rug Facility operations.

Purpose:

1. Fibers are very different from those found in wall to wall carpet. There are far more natural fibers found in rugs. 2. Backings are very different: natural foundation yarns are more prominent in Oriental and fine fabric rugs than in broadloom carpet. 3. Construction is different: woven construction is far more prevalent with area rugs but tufted rugs are saturating the carpet industry. 4. Cleaning methods are far different because of the possibility of dye migration and fiber distortion. 5. Inherent problems with Oriental and fine fabric area rugs require customer involvement before and during the cleaning process.

Definition of a Rug

According to the IICRC S100, “Area Rugs are textile floor coverings made from wool, cotton, silk, jute, animal skins or manufactured fibers with or without a pile suface. They are usually made in separate pieces in sizes designed to cover a portion of the floor or other floor covering, as distinct from carpet. The preferred system for cleaning area rugs is to remove it from the home or business and clean them in a controlled “in-plant” environment where a variety of methods or combinations of cleaning methods may be used.

Failure to perform specialized procedures may result in permanent damage to the rug and/or the flooring materials under and around the rug. Improper wet cleaning on-location could cause extended drying, texture change, cellulosic browning, dye migration, mold growth and/or dry rot.

Brief History

The word rug is derived from the Scandinavian term “rugga” which means a wool covering for the bed or body. In 1947, Russian Archaeologist Sergei Rudenko discovered the oldest known fabric rug made with a pile in existance and made a huge impact on the rug industry. The Pazyryk rug was discovered in Siberia and dates back to the 5th century BC.

Between 1100-1200 AD crusaders returned to Europe with handwoven rugs leading the Saracens of southern Spain to begin creating hand woven rugs around the 13th century.

Rug making reached its apex in Persia from the 14th-16th centuries under the reign of Shah Abbas and was known for its intricate designs and rich colors within a deep pile. Fine Persian rugs from Turkey, Iran, Iraq, Syria and the Caucuses mountain Range often have 1000 knots per square inch.

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Navajo weavers started to produce “wearings”: serapes, chief blankets etc. between 1650 and 1863. Due to the lack of natural resources (water) the fugitive dyes were left standing. A tradition that continues today and presents challenges for cleaners who decide to saturate Navajo flatweaves.

In North America prior to 1791 (first carpet weaving factory) braided, hooked and rag rugs were woven from scraps of cloth.

The Jacquard mechanism was introduced in 1800 and later evolved into the Wilton loom that we know today. Later, in 1856 the Axminster loom was patented and allowed for a wider range of colors and patterns to be used on power looms.

The tufting machine was introduced in the 1950’s and by the middle of the century more tufted rugs than hand woven were being produced in the United States.

Today, rugs are more popular than ever with the reintroduction of hard surfaces: wood, laminate, tile, stone etc. The chances of encountering a true antique rug are rare, but because of the delicate nature and the higher cost, you have a much higher liability on your hands when cleaning them. Be very careful.

Major Rug Producing Countries

Oriental and fine fabric area rugs come from traditional rug-weaving areas of the world as shown in the picture above along with Europe and the United States.

Rugs from different areas share technical and stylistic features which enable us to identify major regional groupings.

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Middle East

Afghanistan: Tribal weavers hand-knot rugs using the famous Afghan wool. They are mostly made on a wool foundation and may bleed and/or buckle. Test for colorfastness.

Egypt: Egypt produces both hand-knotted and machine made rugs. Finely knotted silk rugs must be treated with extreme care. Wash both sides with a soft bristled brush with the pile only and dried evenly and quickly. Grooming after the cleaning and after drying is essential for the rug’s pile life.

Iran: Iran produces hand-knotted Persian rugs and Kelim, flat-weaves. These flat-weaves are very delicate and precautions must be taken. Check for colorfastness.

Saudi Arabia: Saudi Arabia produces machine made rugs.

Turkey: Turkey produces hand made and machine made rugs and are known for their double sidecord. Be careful some Pakistani and Afghan rugs mimic this construction style. Turkish rugs must be checked for colorfastness.

Caucasus Region: Rugs coming from the famed mountain range between Europe and Asia.

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China: China has a growing rug industry and is a source of almost every type of Oriental rug: hand-knotted, hand-hooked, hand tufted, Soumak, Aubusson and machine made.

Note* Contaminated glue on tufted rugs present challenges to cleaners that should be taken into consideration when urine removal is necessary when cleaning Chinese or Indian tufted rugs.

India: India is a leading producer of hand-tufted and hand loomed rugs. Kashmir chain stitch and Dhurries represent India’s handmade constructions.

Nepal and Tibet: Tibetan knot construction is the hallmark of Nepalese and Tibetan rug production. Tibetan and Nepalese rugs are known for their use of fine wool combined with silk.

Pakistan: Rugs are hand-knotted by refugee weavers and often times mimic the construction styles of

other regions. These rugs are not washed to remove fugitive dyes and should be colorfast tested and treated prior to submersion cleaning.

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Europe

Greece: This region produces both machine made and Flokati (thick straight wool) that should never be submerged. A light topical clean is the best method for Flokati rugs.

Morocco: Morocco produces both hand-knotted and hand-woven rugs. Notorious bleeders, Moroccan rugs are often wool pikle on a cotton foundation with large braids on each end and thick, shaggy wool pile. Check bright colors for dye migration.

South and Central America

Peru: Usually constructed of Alpaca fur, these rugs display Incan designs. Due to lack of resources (water) these rug’s dyes may migrate. Check for colorfastness.

North America

America: Karastan rugs are machine woven rugs. Easily cleaned where as Navajo rugs need special attention and will bleed (dye migration) if over saturated. Be careful when cleaning Navajo rugs as they are full of fugitive dyes.

Mexico: Wool rugs blended with cotton that often need blocking to prevent shrinkage from over saturation.

Note* According to Floor Covering Weekly in 2002 the area rug market accounted for 16.7% of the floor covering market.

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Liability

Liability insurance does not cover faulty workmanship. However, Oriental and fine fabric rugs have inherent problems that sometimes stretch beyond the control of the cleaner. It is imperative to inform the client if problems suddenly arise and take the proper precautions when choosing the proper cleaning method(s).

Rug Value

Hand-knotted Oriental rugs are unique works of art. Even when woven with the same patterns and colors no two rugs are the same. They should be protected like any other artistic endeavor.

Oriental rug value can be determined by:

1. Materials used – Based on this criteria, typically, silk rugs are the most expensive while wool is a close second for adding value to a rug. 2. Geographical design – Tribal rugs that are misshapen or come in odd sizes aren’t ruined. Quite the contrary, these rugs are one of a kind and raises the value whereas rugs produced in factories (City rugs) are perfectly symmetrical and do not have the same inherent value. 3. Design – The more intricate the design the more time it takes to weave. This attention to detail raises the value of the rug exponentially. 4. Knots per inch – Tightly woven Oriental rugs are more expensive because they require the most time to make, and they are the most durable. Most Oriental rugs have 50-500 knots per square inch. 5. Antiquity – Rarity impacts the value of a rug. Any rug 50-75 years old is considered antique and in some cases priceless. 6. Condition – Any damage (urine contamination, missing fringe, ripped side cords, etc.) has a big impact on the value of a rug. Hence our outstanding walkthrough is a critical component to our process.

Appraisal Source:

ORRA (Oriental Rug Retailers of America) Certified Appraisers @ www.orrainc.com/Find_ORRA_Certified_Oriental_Rug_Appraisers

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CHAPTER 2

FIBERS

Natural Fibers: Wool and cotton are the most common fibers used in Oriental rugs.

1. Protein (animal or insect) these include wool and silk and are woven onto a cotton foundation. a. Wool – naturally flame retardant and the most absorbent of all fibers, wool resists static and mold by retaining up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapor. Its natural crimp makes wool the most resilient of fibers. Wool is dyed with an acid dye. b. Silk – a two part protein consisting of fibroin and seracin, produced through the reeling process (grabbing an end and unwinding) the cocoon of the silkworm. China is the leading producer of silk.

Protein Fiber Considerations:

1. Inspect thoroughly for damage, exposure to over the counter chemicals, stains, insect damage, etc. 2. Test for Colorfastness in an inconspicuous spot on the backside of the rug. 3. Always obtain a signed condition report (invoice) and reiterate its importance to your technicians. 4. Use appropriate pre-sprays after the dusting process. Alkaline causes dye migration in wool and may damage the fibers. 5. Consider acid rinse agents to reset the ph and return the fibers to their original condition. (ph range 2.5-5.5) 6. Agitate carefully to insure detergent saturation. 7. Never use chlorine bleach on wool or silk. Steer clear of applying peroxide as it may also damage wool and silk. 8. Speed Dry.

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Cellulosic (Bast) Fibers:

Plant, vegetable and bast fibers are cellulosic fibers and are held together by a sugar like substance called lignin or pectin.

Cotton – the most common foundation fiber, cotton is a strong, soft vegetable fiber. Artificial or Art silk is mercerized (treated with alkaline) cotton which has added strength and luster. (Cotton has shrinking potential and more times than not should be blocked post saturation)

Bast Fibers – coir (coconut husk), linen (flax plant), jute (retting process), sisal (agave plant), and hemp are all bast fibers retted (boiled to separate the thin fibers from underneath the bark and above the pulp), cleaned, spun into yarn and woven into fabric.

Cleaning Considerations for Cellulosic Fibers: 1. Inspect thoroughly for damage, exposure to over the counter chemicals, stains, insect damage, etc. 2. Test for Colorfastness in an inconspicuous spot on the backside of the rug. 3. Always obtain a signed condition report (invoice) and reiterate its importance to your technicians. 4. After a thorough vacuuming consider low moisture methods for the cleaning process. Eg. Sponge, dry foam, etc. 5. Use non-browning pre-approved cleaning agents. 6. Agitate carefully to avoid damage damage when cleaning brittle bast fibers. 7. Never use chlorine bleach or any similar substance that may cause color loss or deterioration. 8. Speed dry at high temperatures to preventbrowning, mold development, odor, discoloration and damage.

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Terms:

Extrusion: Pumping liquid polymer through a spinneret to form individual strands called a filament.

Filament: Single strand of fiber.

Continuous filament: fiber has indefinite length, while staple fibers are cut to a specific length (5-8”).

Shedding: Releasing of short, loose staple fiber and shearing lint.

Regenerated Cellulosic:

Art silk, Antique silk or Faux silk is usually made from regenerated cellulosic fiber; viscose (rayon) to simulate silk.

Rayon (viscose) is easy to stain, abrasion sensitive and it loses 40-70% strength when wet. It should be treated as if it were cotton during cleaning.

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Silk vs. Faux Silk:

READ the TAG! Look carefully at the “silk rug”: it should be tightly woven (250-500 knots p/sq’), intricately detailed, closely clipped, and it should have real silk fringe a clear extension of the foundation fibers, not sewn on and added post construction. Good quality silk rugs will always have silk fringe.

Artificial silk rugs have 200 or less knots p/sq’ and often have cotton fringe. Sometimes these rugs are mistakenly identified as low pile wool rugs but are actually mercerized cotton or viscose.

Tests for Silk:

Rub it! Open palm rubbing will cause true silk to warm to the touch, whereas faux silk will remain cool.

Burn it! Clip a small piece of fringe or a sprout from the backside and burn it. Real silk will burn to a balled, crispy ash and smell like burning hair. Artificial silk will be soft and chalky and smell like burning hair.

Dissolve it! Chlorine bleach will dissolve real silk and leave cotton, rayon and nylon unchanged.

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Modified Fibers

Synthetic Fibers:

Synthetic fibers are made from by-products of the energy business (coal, natural gas, petroleum) and are formed through the process of extrusion; pumping hot, liquid polymer through a spinneret to form filaments which is then crimped to add bulk and texture to the yarns. 1. Nylon – Nylon is the most durable and resilient synthetic fiber. It is dyed with acid dyes and is easily print dyed. 2. Olefin – AKA polypropylene, it is the most heat sensitive and least absorbent of all synthetic fibers. Solution dyed, it will not stain but is oleophilic (absorbs oils). Many olefin rugs are woven in Egypt. 3. Polyester – is seldom used as a pile fiber in area rugs. It cleans well and is colorfast and stain resistant. 4. Acrylic – it was developed as a synthetic substitute for wool. It’s durable, cleans well, colorfast and stain resistant. Today’s acrylic (modacrylic) is more flame resistant than earlier generations

Refer to the ‘Fiber Identification Chart (Burn test)’

Rug Fiber Performance:

Professional cleaners need to be aware of the role fibers play in the cleaning process. They often begin cleaning right away without communicating with customers about limitations and inherent problems they face with a given set of physical circumstances.

Customers are given the impression the rug will look “as good as new”. When this doesn’t happen, customer complaints will pour in. “Preconditioning the customer” can be just as important as preconditioning the rug.

You must be aware of fiber facts that are beyond your control. Relay this information to your customers and set their expectations about cleaning their investment.

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Potential Problems: Customer Information

1. Shading – General term for variations in light refelction due to bent or abraded fibers. More apparent post clean because: a. Soil removal makes the fiber less reflective. b. Rug is groomed in one direction. c. Permanent damage (scratched) due to neglect. 2. Pooling – distortions caused by pivot action in high traffic areas. The pile has reversed direction.

6. Shrinkage – occurs in rugs due to swelling of highly absorbent natural fiber backing yarns (wool, cotton, jute) when wet. Enlarged yarns require more space from the outer perimeter of the rug thus it draws inward. It is correctable through blocking and drying quickly.

7. Abrash (ahbrush) – hand-dyed yarns are knotted into the pile of a rug, different spools of yarn take dye differently and fade at different rates. This results in the abrash effect, or streaks (color striations) extending across the rug. It is a natural occurrence and is not correctable, it is in fact a desirable trait.

8. Fading – Gradual irreversible color intensity loss usually due to over exposure to light (sunlight), oxidizing gases (ozone) and outside agents (bleach). Note* types of fading: fume fading, UV fading, Ozone fading and photo bleaching.

9. Dye Migration – is accelerated with moisture, alkalinity above 7ph (natural fibers) and 10ph (nylon), heat and/or water temperature, and time (prolonged exposure to moisture). Professinal cleaners should always test the rug’s colorfastness on an inconspicuous spot on the backside of the rug. Anti-dye should be used to prevent faulty workmanship. Always use cold water when cleaning a rug. If a rug tests positive use the minimum moisture techniques. Force dry quickly.

3. Water Marking – Large areas of pile reversal, found especially in rugs with high, plush pile. 4. Crushing – Packing of face yarns that lack resiliency.

5. Excessive Wear – When areas of the foundation are exposed. Age, maintenance neglect and high traffic contribte to this condition. Note* beware of painted areas.

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Easy Explanations:

A simple three-pronged explanation of these inherent problems will be greatly appreciated by our customers and aide in eliminating frustrating complaints due to misunderstanding. Abrading, fading and wear is our attempt to provide our customers with Stanley Steemer’s outstanding walkthrough. It is our duty to educate rug owners that entry, pivot and high traffic areas will never look brand new again because:

1. Abrading causes the diffusion of light due to exposure to abrasive soils on surface fibers which creates scratches and pits that dull the fiber’s appearance and causes a change in light reflection. A good example to use is if we took a piece of clear plastic and rubbed it with sandpaper, no matter how clean we get the plastic the surface would always look dull and dingy. 2. Fading result from two conditions: a. Light, whether incandescent, fluorescent, or direct sunlight, has an effect on dyes after a period of prolonged exposure. b. Soils, which are slightly acidic, tend to effect and discolor dyes and yellow fiber over time. 3. Wear is defined as a reduction in pile height or fiber distortion (alignment) called shading in heavily used traffic and pivot areas, as compared to minimally trafficked areas along walls or under furniture.

Refer to the ‘Fiber Performance Summary’

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CHAPTER 3

SOILINGDefinition:

Soil is any unwanted matter that is foreign to the construction of the rug. Most soil is acidic in nature. Rugs act as a sink or filter that traps particle soils, fibers, gases and animal or human dander (skin cells).

Classes:

1. Insoluble (particle) substances that cannot be dissolved in water or dry solvents. The majority of soil in rugs is particulate, so thorough vacuuming or dusting is critical to increase the life span of the rug. Particle soils include: sand, quartz, feldspar, limestone, gypsum, clay, carbon (animal fiber and dander) and vegetable matter (cellulose) 2. Water soluble- food stuffs: sugar, starch, salt, foods. 3. Dry Solvent soluble- oils, grease, etc.

Causes:

Soils build up progressively in rugs, even if vacuumed routinely. Soils are held in the pile in several ways:

1. Occlusion- soils trapped in yarn bundles and within the rug’s pile. 2. Static Electricity- very fine particles held by static charges surrounding fibers (van der Waal forces). 3. Oily/sticky binders- particles held by oily (solvent soluble) or sticky (water soluble) binders or residues that are deposited on fibers during use (most significant mechanism)

Refer to ‘Tufted Carpet and Rug Soil Summary Chart’

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CHAPTER 4

INSPECTIONS AND DOCUMENTATIONPurpose: Thorough pre-inspection and documentation of rugs is essential in all situations to avoid a variety of costly misunderstandings with customers. When damage or potential problems are discovered during pre-inspection, it is highly recommended that technicians document the condition in writing, notify customers and obtain proper authorization prior to performing any cleaning, repair or restoration services.

Categories:

Initially, it is invaluable to identify the rug construction present. The major differences between machine made and hand-made rugs are:

1. Selvedge finish – side cords woven not sewn on post construction. 2. Fringe – traced back to the foundation or added post construction. 3. Knot nodes – (warp and weft yarn visibility) in most cases hand knotted rugs display weft yarns on the backside, whereas machine-made rugs show warp yarns. The fiber direction of the nodes is parallel to that of the weft. 4. Attached backing – can be hand-tufted or machine-tufted with adhesive backing.

Problematic Pre-Inspection Categories:

1. Structural Damage – wear to face fibers or fringe, physical damage (holes, tears) to the foundation yarns, dry rot, chemical damage. 2. Dye Problems – crocking, bleeding, fading, oxidation, chemical discoloration. 3. Insect Damage – moths or carpet beetles. 4. Repairs – structural or color (be aware that visible foundation fibers may have been painted).

Identification (Tagging) of Rugs:

Because the invoice for services remains in the office and the ARCS, it is important for cleaning personnel to have an identification tag to designate specific procedures pertaining to that rug. Information included on the identification tags include:

1. Invoice number – to link job with power magic and so facilities can check off-site is listed on order. 2. Branch Operation / Cleaning Operation – illustrates the branch rug originated from and facility that did the cleaning. 3. Number of rugs – indicates multiple rugs from same customer. 4. Customer name. 5. Customer phone number. 6. Treatments – DEO=deodorizer, PRO=protection, UTR=U-Turn, FB=Fringe Brightening etc. (any questionable treatments should be followed up with customer). 7. Date received/Date Due Back – the date received is a hard date that the technician picked up the rug. Due Back-is an estimated delivery date (2-3 weeks depending on volume).

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Colorfastness Test:

Colorfastness is the ability of a fiber or fabric containing dyestuffs or pigment to resist breakdown according to manufacturer and government test standards under ultraviolet light exposure, wet crocking, dry crocking, cleaning, or atmospheric contaminants. A colorfast test should be performed prior to any cleaning (no matter what the system) to determine the potential for dye migration. A simple dye transfer test can be performed by using the cleaning solution, dry white cotton towel or cotton swabs (in the case of many colors) Allow sufficient time for accurate test results (up to 24 hours). There are three ways to conduct colorfastness tests, at least two of which should be used during our in plant testing process:

Note* pile side testing is not preferred as dyes may run into lighter colors creating a stained look.

2. From the rug’s top side, apply detergent solution (pH7 or less) you plan to clean the rug with to the center of a colored pattern, working from the darkest to the lightest colors. Effort should made to avoid color transfer between yarns, where possible, by not over saturating. Place a dry cotton swab (Q-tip) in the center of the wet tufts and allow it to remain for at least one hour. Remove the cotton swab and observe for color transfer.

3. Working from the backside of the rug, saturate a white towel with the same solution you plan on cleaning the rug with. Wrap the towel around a heavy object (eg. Brick) and place the brick on the backside of the rug at a corner and wrap the rug over the towel insuring all colors come in contact with the wet towel. Place an additional colorfast weight on the rug’s pile side to maximize contact. Allow 2 hours (preferably overnight) remove weights and observe for dye transfer.

1. Working on the rug’s pile side from the darkest to the lightest color, wet out DO NOT flood a white terry cloth with the properly diluted detergent solution (what you plan to clean the rug with). Wrap the cloth around you fingers and apply solution to the color being tested for at least one minute (several minutes are recommended). After the allotted time, unwrap the towel and observe for dye transfer. This test does NOT guarantee that dyes won’t run during the cleaning process. Longer testing periods are highly recommended.

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Customer Briefing:

Lack of communication is the biggest problem consumers have with service workers. Even when a problem or potential problem is identified, if a rug inspector communicates the facts about the problem or potential problem, it instills confidence in your abilities. At that point consumers often are willing to assume responsibility for that problem for the sake of having a cleaner, healthier rug in their home or office.

Regardless of how experienced or how good of a communicator an inspector may be, understanding does not exist until the problem or potential problem is written down and acknowledged by both parties.

When consumer attitudes are suspect or expectations are unreasonably high, and/or the rug is in poor condition to begin with, it may be prudent to, “Just say no”. At Stanley Steemer Oriental and Fine Fabric Rug Facilities the outstanding walkthrough does not stop at the front door, it extends through the entire cleaning process.

Refer to the ‘Tufter Rug Urine Waiver: Consumer Information’, ‘Urine Waiver: Oriental Rugs’, ‘Area Rug Invoice’

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CHAPTER 5

RUG CLEANING BASICSChemistry of Cleaning:

Mixture – two components mixed together but not subject to a chemical reaction.

Compound – combination of chemicals in which a new compound is formed due to chemical reaction.

Solvent – a substance that dissolves another substance.

Solution – a liquid mixture in which one component is dissolved in another, but separates again upon drying (salt dissolves in water, creates a saline solution).

Emulsion – a mixture in which a substance (oil) is broken down (usually due to detergent action) into fine parts, and uniformly dispersed throughout the carrier.

Suspension – a mixture in which components are not dissolved but remain suspended and evenly dispersed due to electrical forces associated with detergents.

Atom – the basic unit of matter.

Molecule – the smallest unit into which a substance can be divided while maintaining its original characteristics.

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Soaps:

1. Composition 2. Saponification (converting fats into soap) 3. Soap molecule components a. Hydrophobic end (water-fearing) b. Hydrophilic end (water-loving)

Synthetic Detergents:

1. Surfactants (surface active agents) a. Composition (petroleum derivatives plus alkalinity) b. Wetting (reducing surface tension) c. Defloculation (separation of soil from the fiber surface) d. Ionization: the polarity(positive or negative)of a chemical solution 1. Anionic – negative charge (foaming detergents, shampoos) 2. Cationic – positive charge (most disinfectants, antistats, liquid fabric softners) 3. Non-ionic – no charge (traffic lane pre-conditioners, “steam” detergents) 4. Synthetic Detergents are less likely to break down and cause re-soiling than true soaps. 2. Alkaline builders (boosts pH):

The American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists (AATCC) and most synthetic fiber producers recommend a pH of 10 or less. However, most wool rugs are naturally acidic in nature or have dyes that are set with acid. Typically, they have a pH range between 2.5-5.5 after manufacturing. Cleaning solutions for natural fibers, especially wool, should never contain:

• Chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) • Washing sodas • Trisodium phosphate • Alkaline builders

Highly alkaline solutions can cause natural fibers to degrade or bleed. Determine the alkalinity or acidity of a solution using pHydrion (litmus) paper (colored with indicator dye) or with a calibrated pH pen.

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Principles of Cleaning C.H.A.T.

A. Dry Vacuuming: for particle soil removal prior to cleaning: 1. Upright vacuuming – repeat the process several times on both sides of the rug until soils are removed. 2. Dusting – Use mechanical rug beater or place the rug face down on a smooth surface and securely attach two centrifugal airmovers to each corner. 3. Compressed Air Dusting- Secialized tools in conjunction with compressed air at 110 psi and 100 cfm. B. Soil Suspension: four fundamentals C.H.A.T. 1. Chemical Action – a. Surfactant b. Alkaline builders (pH 10 or less, wool = pH7 or less) c. Dry solvent additive 2. Heat or Temperature – As temperature increases, chemical activity increases. There are three situations in which temperature should be reduced: a. Non-colorfast rugs b. Any true “velvet” plushes (no heat-set twist) c. Wool or cellulosic fibers (sensitive fiber, usually in “velvet plush” pile design) 3. Agitation – For uniform chemical distribution; lifting matted yarns, maximum soil suspension. To prevent distortion, it is highly recommended that fine wool and silk rugs be agitated in the pile direction only, which may have to be accomplished by hand. a. Jet (avoid the combination of high heat and pressure to avoid streaking). b. Hand (groom or brush and tamping action). c. Mechanical (rotary brush, cymex, or cylindrical brush action). 4. Time – On non-colorfast rugs or rugs that may be subject to cellulosic browning (cotton, jute, hemp, linen) chemical agents’ dwell time should be limited.

Note* if one fundamental decreases, others must increase to maintain cleaning quality.

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Soil Extraction:

1. Absorption (dry compound, absorbent pad or bonnet). 2. Wet vacuuming (dry foam, shampooing). 3. Hot (cold) water rinsing. 4. Submersion washing (squeegee, wet vacuuming, centrifuge, wringer). 5. Vacuuming after drying (any wet method following the drying process).

Finishing (Grooming and Pile Setting):

This eliminates matting and crushing, distributes protectors uniformly, and produces better appearance. After cleaning, rugs should be groomed with the lay of the pile for the following reasons:

1. Eliminates matting and crushing. 2. Essential to distribute additives. 3. Presents best appearance for customer’s viewing after re-laying the rug.

Drying:

Most problems with odor and microbial development are caused by failure to dry rugs properly. The time required for drying is influenced by the level of soiling, the method of cleaning and the humidity and airflow in the area where the rug is being cleaned.

Note* Air movers promote “wicking”– the upward flow of moisture on fiber surfaces, which evaporates into the air. Soils, which are not removed during drying, may wick to the tips of the rug pile yarns and create dark areas or streaks. Drying a rug “upside down” on a clean, dry surface will help avoid wicking and browning.

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CHAPTER 6

CLEANING PROCEDURESOn Location versus In-Facility Cleaning:

It is highly recommended ALL rugs be cleaned in a cleaning facility. This affords more controlled cleaning conditions, along with the ability to inspect completed work after drying,and to apply corrective measures where needed. However, some rugs are too large and heavy to be moved. In some cases, customers refuse to have their valuables removed from their homes or offices.

When technicians clean area rugs on-location, several precautions are necessary:

A. Under floors must be protected from cleaning agents (overspray, moisture, bleeding) to prevent damage or discolorations. B. Slip and fall signs must be posted and hazards avoided by wiping up overspray or moisture. (Paper placed under the edges is highly recommended). C. Speed drying with appropriate number of air movers, followed by a post-clean inspection is highly recommended. D. Rugs laid on carpet may bleed and transfer dye to the carpet underneath.

When cleaning rugs in-facility, more control may be exercised in the cleaning process, along with the use of specialized equipment (beaters, tubs, centrifuges) that cannot be transported to a location. Moreover, the rug can be inspected after drying to insure any problems that arose during the process can be corrected. In particular, fringe that is made of cotton may require special cleaning procedures and solutions.

It is highly recommended that during transport the rug be rolled against the pile and folding or bending be avoided as it may cause damage or distortion (ripples, buckles).

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Specific Cleaning Procedures

Oriental Rugs:

These rugs represent the biggest challenge for professional cleaners simply due to liability. The price for hand-knotted Orientals can range from several hundred to tens of thousands of dollars. Unfortunately, the greatest amount of appreciation in a rug’s value takes place between when the cleaner takes possession of it and something goes wrong.

Before taking responsibility for any high value rug, establish the appraised value by asking the customer, obtain a signed condition report (invoice), recommend high traffic rugs be cleaned at least once a year.

Cleaning process for oriental and fine fabric rugs:

• Inspect carefully (components, condition, colorfastness). • Obtain appropriate documentation (urine waiver, condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility (avoid bending or folding). • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Dust thoroughly (as much as needed). • Test for colorfastness (preferably overnight). • If the rug tests as a bleeder begin with the anti-dye wash on both the front and the back sides of the rug. Anti-dye forces fugitive dyes out (don’t worry) it doesn’t allow them to settle into the fiber’s dye sites. Rinse until no more dye is bleeding out of the rug. • Choose cleaning method (low moisture, full submersion, anti-dye, etc.) Contact Eddie Rochester for concerns when choosing cleaning method. Methods: a. Dry cleaning (Dry Foam-cotton ease) b. Dry compound (Solvents) c. High spray (Mist) and vacuum d. Acid Shampoo / Acid Rinse combo (cold water) e. Power washing (beware of streaking) f. Submersion Cleaning (SSI Method)

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• Apply post cleaning treatment (acetic acid) to return to original pH. • Groom in one direction. • Hang or dry flat with appropriate air movers both over and under the rug. • Hand Clean Fringe after drying. a. Lay out rug on clean surface or table. b. Apply appropriate fringe solution. c. Agitate away from pile. d. Allow dwell time. e. Rinse with cold water, acid solution. f. Extract all excess moisture, blow dry as appropriate. • After drying vacuum the pile thoroughly. • Quality Control Inspection: correct any problems as soon as possible. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up. • Lay the rug according to customer’s preference, suggest padding and discard any worn or contaminated padding. • Groom for best appearance.

Special Considerations:

• Blocking using galvanized, brass, or stainless nails on wood may be required to prevent or correct bow, skew, rippling, wrinkling of shrinkage.

• Dye stripping may be required to correct dye migration or severe browning of cotton fringes.

• Drying upside down may be required to reverse and prevent browning in cellulosic fibers (cotton, jute, hemp, etc.) in the pile foundation (backing) materials.

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Chain-stitch and Needlepoint Rugs:

Needlepoint and chain-stitch rugs are typically comprised of a plain-woven cotton, linen or jute base fabric, into which pile yarns are stitched from the backside to form elements (color, texture) of the pattern. Typically the pile yarns are made of wool, but they may be synthetic or blends as well. The back of the rug typically may be coated with latex to lock the yarns in place to prevent slippage, tuft loss and/or raveling.

Cleaning process for chain-stitch and needlepoint rugs:

• Inspect carefully (condition of yarns, colorfastness, condition of latex back coat). • Obtain appropriate documentation (urine waiver, condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility (avoid bending or folding). • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Dust thoroughly (simple hand vacuuming may be the best course of action). • Test for colorfastness (preferably overnight). • If the rug tests as a bleeder, begin with the anti-dye wash on both the front and the back sides of the rug. Anti-dye forces fugitive dyes out (don’t worry) it doesn’t allow them to settle into the fiber’s dye sites. Rinse until no more dye is bleeding out of the rug. • Choose Cleaning Method (low moisture, full submersion, anti-dye, etc.) Contact Eddie Rochester for concerns when choosing cleaning method. Methods: a. Dry cleaning (Dry Foam-cotton ease) b. Dry compound (Solvents) c. Acid Shampoo / Acid Rinse combo (cold water) d. Mist and Vacuum e. Submersion Cleaning for Salvage Clean only (SSI Method) • Apply post cleaning treatment (acetic acid) to return to original pH. • Groom in one direction. • Dry flat; preferably upside down to prevent cellulosic browning of face yarns or upward migration when present. • After drying vacuum the pile carefully. • Quality Control Inspection: correct any problems as soon as possible. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up. • Lay the rug according to customer’s preference, suggest padding and discard any worn or contaminated padding.

Special Considerations:

• Anticipate severe browning from cellulosic base material during drying, if appropriate precautions aren’t taken.

• Protruding yarns may be snagged and damage may result when vacuuming or cleaning, be careful.

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Braided Rugs:

The braids of these rugs are made of cellulosic or synthetic stuffer “cord” material with wool or nylon yarns braided (woven) around the stuffer material. The sides of the braided cords are sewn together with cotton thread in a pattern to create a circular or oval shape to the rug and give it a rustic decorative impression. Typically, these rugs are reversible and should be cleaned on both sides if not being submerged.

Cleaning process for braided rugs:

• Inspect carefully (wear, stitching condition, fiber type, soiling). • Obtain appropriate documentation (condition report, invoice) • Transport rug to facility. • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Dust thoroughly but carefully considering: face, latex, and protruding yarns. • Test for colorfastness (preferably overnight). • If the rug tests as a bleeder begin with the anti-dye wash on both the front and the back sides of the rug. Anti-dye forces fugitive dyes out (don’t worry) it doesn’t allow them to settle into the fiber’s dye sites. Rinse until no more dye is bleeding out of the rug. • Choose cleaning method: (Contact Eddie Rochester with any concern when choosing the appropriate method). Methods: a. Dry cleaning (Dry Foam-cotton ease) b. Dry compound (Solvents) c. High spray (Mist) and vacuum d. Cotton Ease (dry foam) e. Submersion Cleaning (SSI Method) • If not submerging flip rug and repeat procedure on backside. • Apply post cleaning treatment (acetic acid) to return to original pH. • Gently groom in one direction with a finishing brush. • Hang or dry flat with appropriate air movers both over and under the rug flipping the rug to allow even drying though out. • After drying, vacuum the rug on both sides. • Quality inspection; correct any problems as possible. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up. • Lay the rug according to customer’s preference, suggest padding and discard any worn or contaminated padding.

Special Considerations:

• To maintain an optimum vacuum seal when wet vacuuming or rinsing suspended soils, move the extraction wand in a circular or oval pattern, working with the braids.

• Use neutral to acid solutions on wool yarns. Weak (degraded) cotton yarns holding braids together may break during cleaning; repair as required.

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Flokati Rugs:

A true flokati rug is woven of 100% wool yarn; however, polyester imitations may be encountered. Typically, genuine Flokati rugs are made with undyed, natural wool.

Cleaning process for Flokati rugs: • Inspect carefully (condition, fiber type, soil, discolorations) colorfastness should not be an issue since no dyes were applied, but exercise caution anyway. • Obtain appropriate documentation (condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility. • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service) • Gently hand comb and hand vacuum thoroughly (suction only or compressed air) to remove particle soils that have sifted downward into the pile and to untangle pile yarns somewhat. Avoid making texture changes of the Flokati rug. • Choose Cleaning Method: (Contact Eddie Rochester with any concern when choosing the appropriate method). Methods: a. In plant dry cleaning (hand or machine) b. Precondition with neutral to acid pre-conditioning agent, agitate by hand and extract with cold water c. Submersion (beware that the Flokati can shrink so be prepared to block it off) • Flip rug and repeat procedure on backside. • Gently groom in one direction with a finishing brush (light shedding should be expected). • Hang or dry flat with appropriate air movers both over and under the rug flipping the rug to allow even drying though out. • After drying, groom the rug. • Quality Control Inspection: use caution if applying any post cleaning treatments as browning can occur. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up.

Special Considerations:

• If shrinkage occurs, block the rug and stretch carefully.

• Use neutral to acid solutions on wool yarns.

• Yellowing of wool yarn may be corrected using a reducing agent presoak followed by thorough rinsing.

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Custom Designer Rugs:

These rugs may be woven or tufted using natural or synthetic foundation or backing yarns, much like the high-quality wall-to-wall carpet made with natural or synthetic yarns and then bound or serged along the edges.

Cleaning process for custom designer rugs:

• Inspect carefully (wear, stitching or binding condition, fiber type, soiling, colorfastness). • Obtain appropriate documentation (condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility. • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Dust thoroughly in at least two directions. • Test for colorfastness starting with the darkest color to the lightest. Inform customer of potential problems in writing before cleaning. • If the rug tests as a bleeder begin with the anti-dye wash on both the front and the back sides of the rug. Anti-dye forces fugitive dyes out (don’t worry) it doesn’t allow them to settle into the fiber’s dye sites. Rinse until no more dye is bleeding out of the rug. • Choose Cleaning Method: (Contact Eddie Rochester with any concern when choosing the appropriate method). Methods: a. Minimum moisture methods (dry solvents, dry compound or dry foam. b. High Spray (Mist) and vacuum c. Combination acid shampoo and acid (cool) extraction rinse d. Submersion cleaning • Hang or dry flat with appropriate air movers both over and under the rug flipping the rug to allow even drying though out. • After drying, vacuum and groom. • Quality Control Inspection: correct any problems as soon as possible. (re-vacuum if necessary). • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up.

Special Considerations:

• Use neutral-to-acid on wool, cotton, or rayon yarns.

• Test for colorfastness carefully, especially where light dark contrasts are present. Too much moisture may cause dye migration or texture change prior to cleaning.

• If backing or foundation yarns are made of natural fibers. Dry the rug upside down to prevent soil wicking or cellulosic browning.

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Cellulosic (Bast) Rugs:

(100% cotton; bast fibers: jute, sisal, linen, coir, conifer, hemp) Typically cellulosic rugs, especially those made with bast fibers, will brown or circle severely if not cleaned properly. Further, back coatings may be damged if wet cleaned. Therefore, it is highly recommended these rugs be cleaned uniformly and evenly with minimum moisture techniques to avoid problems.

Cleaning process for cellulosic rugs:

• Inspect carefully (wear, colorfastness, back coatings, fiber type, soiling). • Obtain appropriate documentation condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility. • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Dust/vacuum thoroughly (face, back, face). • Test for colorfastness from darkest to lightest. • Choose Cleaning Method: DO NOT SUBMERGE (Contact Eddie Rochester with any concern when choosing the appropriate method). Methods: a. Dry cleaning (Dry Foam-cotton ease) b. Dry compound (Solvents) c. High spray (Mist) and vacuum • Gently groom in one direction with a finishing brush. • Hang or dry flat with appropriate air movers both over and under the rug flipping the rug to allow even drying throughout. • After drying, vacuum the rug on both sides. • Quality Control Inspection; correct any problems as soon as possible. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up.

Special Considerations:

• Use neutral to acid solutions on cellulosic yarns.

• When spot cleaning bast fibers, ensure uniform drying to avoid circling or ringing.

• Anticipate color loss when performing specialized spotting on bast fibers.

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Hooked Rugs:

Hooked rugs are comprised of a plain woven jute or cotton foundation, into which a yarn hook is inserted to catch a lopp of yarn to pull it through the surface of the basefabric to form the rug’s pattern on the top side. Typically, the pile yarns are made of wool, but the can be synthetic as well. The backing is usually coated to trap the loose fiber and prevent slippage/tuft loss or raveling.

Cleaning process for hooked rugs:

• Inspect carefully (construction components, condition of yarns, dye migration, condition of latex back coat). • Obtain appropriate documentation (condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility. • Take and Input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Dust thoroughly but carefully considering: face, latex, and protruding yarns. • Test for colorfastness (preferably overnight). • If the rug tests as a bleeder begin with the anti-dye wash on both the front and the back sides of the rug. Anti-dye forces fugitive dyes out (don’t worry) it doesn’t allow them to settle into the fiber’s dye sites. Rinse until no more dye is bleeding out of the rug. • Choose Cleaning Method: (Contact Eddie Rochester with any concern when choosing the appropriate method). Methods: a. Dry cleaning (sponge clean) b. Dry compound (Solvents) c. High spray (Mist) and vacuum d. Cotton Ease (dry foam) • Apply post cleaning treatment and groom it in for uniform distribution. • Gently groom lightly with a finishing brush. • Dry flat, preferably upside down on a clean surface to prevent upward migration of cellulosic browning, or wicking of sizing, onto the tips of the face yarns. • Consider re-cleaning as necessary. • After drying, vacuum and groom the pile carefully. • Quality Control Inspection: correct any problems as soon as possible. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up.

Special Considerations:

• Hooked rugs are quite limp and do not respond well when wet cleaned.

• Anticipate severe browning from cellulosic base fabric or dissolved sizing during drying, if appropriate precautions aren’t taken. Dry upside down. Be careful not to snag protruding yarns during vacuuming or cleaning.

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Silk Rug:

Silk is a three-part protein fiber that’s extruded from the spinneret of the silk worm. Like wool, silk is sensitive to alkalinity and can be dissolved or damaged by oxidizing bleaches - especially chlorine bleach, but including hydrogen peroxide. However, unlike wool, which has up to 2000 overlapping scales per inch to absorb and retain color, silk does not retain color quite as well as wool. Colorfastness becomes a significant issue for cleaners when cleaning silk. It’s important to test for colorfastness and then implement procedures to ensure that silk is cleaned very much like wool, but with more delicacy. 1. Pre-Inspection – Cleaners should explain the difference, not only between silk and broadloom (e.g. Alkaline degradation, damage by bleaches or excessive agitation; colorfast issues) but how the attempt to avoid those issues. Photo documentation is essential of each problem that exists is essential.

2. Paperwork – Review the paperwork (invoice, condition report) with the customer and obtain a signature indicating the rug owner’s acceptance of risk for problems that may be beyond the cleaner’s control. 3. Dry Soil Removal – this is a four stage process: a. Using a Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) Seal of Approval (SOA) vacuum with a floating head, vacuum the pile to remove hair and lint as well as other insoluble particles. b. Vacuum the rug’s backing to remover particulates that sift through the rug over time. c. Use the installed duster to dust the rug face down at a low speed and force. d. Vacuum the the pile again to remove the particle soil remaining after the dusting process. Note* take the time for vacuuming and dusting. Multiple passes with the duster and vacuum may be prudent so you do not have to deal with it in a wet state. 4. Colorfast Testing – Use the same solution you plan to clean the rug with, there are three ways to test colorfastness: a. A quick (one or two minute test) can be made in the customer’s presence. Simply wet a towel and press it on the primary colors starting with red and working to blue. b. If dark colors are found in a field of white or light pastel use the pinpoint test. Saturate cotton swabs in solution and ‘plant’ them in the darker portions of the rug’s pile. After an hour or so examine for color transfer. c. The most accurate colorfast test is by using several layers of towels and placing them on the back of the rug and weight them down with a colorfast weight. Leave 3-6 hours – overnight if practical – and then turn it over and view it for color transfer. This can prove that submersion may not be the best way to clean the silk rug.

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5. Preconditioning Pile – Using Steemer approved foaming shampoo or detergent mixed according to the label direction, apply sufficiently saturating from pile tip to base. 6. Agitating – Once the preconditioner has been uniformly applied, work it in using a counter- rotating cylindrical brush to provide a thorough but gentle cleaning with the objective of dissolving water soluble soils, emulsifying oily soils and suspending particle soils, while overall brightening the rug. 7. Preconditioning / Agitating Back – If the rug is heavily soiled backside application and agitation may be required. Note* some edges curl tightly on tightly knotted silk rugs, you should expect this, however, when the curling is in a downward direction, it is usually self-correcting during drying and re-laying. 8. Dwell Time – For colorfast rugs dwell time is typically 10-15 minutes, but for those that test as bleeders, dwell time should be less than five minutes. 9. Acid Rinsing Back – Mix an acid rinse solution designed to stabilize dyes and soften the pile. Using the appropriate wand, carefully inject and extract suspended soils and left over detergents from the back side pile (avoid pulling soils from the back to the pile side). Multiple passes-all of which are followed by dry extraction passes-are usually required to thoroughly rinse suspended soil from the rug. 10. Acid Rinsing Pile – Once the back side has been rinsed carefully and dry stroked, the same procedure can be applied to the rug’s pile side. Be sure not to over wet it and cause color migration. 11. Drying – next force dry using air movers over and under the rug. It is a good idea to flat dry, with air moving underneath, to prevent dye migration. 12. Grooming – Always groom with a finishing brush in the direction of the pile so that it lays down. 13. Evaluation – Evaluate the rug carefully and critically. Correct any problems as discovered in the final evaluation.

BEFORE AFTER

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Skins (Leather, Hair):

Genuine animal skins must be hand-processed using minimum moisture.

Cleaning process for skins:

• Inspect carefully (wear, type, soiling, colorfastness, contamination, discoloration, backing, hydes). • Obtain appropriate documentation (condition report, invoice). • Transport rug to facility and lay it on a clean dry surface. • Take and input data and pictures into ARCS (Area Rug Cleaning Service). • Hand vacuum thoroughly fae, back, face. • Test for colorfastness (could be air brushed or painted to enhance natural color). • Choose Cleaning Method: (Contact Eddie Rochester with any concern when choosing the appropriate method). Methods: a. Leather laundering (saddle soap or formulated product). b. Minimum moisture cleaning (dry solvent, dry compound or dry foam). c. High spray (mist) and vacuum on hides with hair. • Gently hand groom skins with hair using a finishing brush. • Dry thoroughly with cool forced air movement on both sides(Avoid high heat and sunlight). • After drying, hand vacuum skins with hair. Treat leather with finishing compound. • Quality Control Inspection: correct any problems as soon as possible. • Roll and wrap. • Store the rug properly until we deliver the rug or the customer picks it up.

Special Considerations:

• When skins or leathers are contaminated with Urine or worn, cleaning may only be marginally effective.

• Minimize the use of water and especially dry solvents which can dry and crack skins and leathers.

• Use only specialized leather cleaning agents or minimum moisture techniques.

• High heat and sunlight can dry and crack skins.

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Fringe Cleaning and Correction

Rug fringe is an extension of the ward yarns in Hand-woven rugs. Cotton is the most common fiber found in fringe while wool and silk may also be used.

Machine-woven Orientals have a fringe attached (sewn on post construction) to the rug’s ends.

Fringe Components: There are several components to end finishes or fringes on rugs: a. A flat woven webbing or Kelim(thick fringe base without pile height). b. Decorative embroidery, stitching, weft wrapping. c. Knots to prevent raveling (pineapple knots from China are very uniform). d. Non-woven warp yarn extensions (fringe itself).

Problems Associated with Fringes

1. Damage – Damage to fringe can take place over time especially in high traffic areas. Animals and vacuuming with a unit that causes brush agitation can also be causes of damage. 2. Soiling – If a rug is placed on a hard surface that is not clean and dry; if floor finishes are allowed to transfer to fringe and if soil is not vacuumed from the entire rug, including fringe, then that accumulated soil can be trafficked into the fringe, especially the knotted portio 3. Browning – Cellulosic browning occurs easily: a. Cellulose – there must be a cellulosic fiber (cotton) present. Cellulosic fibers are comprised of cells of cellulose bonded by a reddish-brown substance called lignin (beta-glucose). b. Moisture – moisture eventually dissolves lignin which then wicks to the surface of any cellulosic fabric to form browning. c. Alkalinity – alkaline dissolves lignin easily. Therefore, an acid rinse before extracting and drying fringe minimizes the potential for browning. d. Age – Older, poor quality cellulose degrades and browns easier than newer cellulosic fibers. 4. Color Migration – Like browning, dye migration can be caused by: a. Fugitive dyes – dyes not rinsed out properly after construction and not attached to fibers. b. Moisture – moisture serves as the carrier for dyes to transfer. c. Alkalinity – acids are used to set dyes, and alkalinity can encourage dye migration. Always be aware of the proper pH for individual fibers. 5. Loss of Tea Wash – Tea washing is a process in which new rugs are over-dyed with a tan or brownish coloring material to mute bright colorsand provide an aged or antique appearance. Be sure to explain what can happen to the tea wash before the cleaning process begins.

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Fringe Correction

1. Damage - Cleaners should not attempt to trim partially worn fringes evenly, unless directed in writing by customers. The best alternative is to have the rug owners do it themselves. Worn or missing sections of fringe on antique rugs is often considered normal, and may be an indicationof the antique nature of some rugs. 2. Abnormal Soiling – Consider these procedures for removing ground in soil: a. Clean the rug and fringe – usually cleaning both together can produce the desired results. If the fringe appears to be impacted with soil or floor finish it may be prudent to process the fringe first. b. Specialized cleaning table – when cleaning the fringe on a table make sure to block up the back legs so the solution runs away from the pile. c. Detergent application – use a foaming shampoo mixed to the highest allowable concentrates. d. Agitate – Using a medium stiff nylon brush, aggressively brush all areas of the fringe to evenly distribute the detergent. e. Dwell time – provide 10-15 minutes for the detergent to complete soil suspension. f. Extraction equipment – add an acid solution to the extraction solution (pH 3) to help prevent browning. g. Hot water rinsing – use the hand tool to mist and vacuum the detergent out of the fringe. h. Wet vacuuming – after thoroughly flushing the detergent and soil vacuum all excess moisture from edge of rug pile and fringe. i. Inspect – inspect and repeat as necessary. j. Force dry – hang the fringe from the edge of the cleaning table and use air movers to dry as quickly as possible.

Fringe Browning

a. Clean with approved agents b. Neutralize with acid rinse c. Extract all excess moisture d. Dry flat

Browning Removal

a. Use a acid solution or reducing agent (stripper). b. Apply reducer low on fringe allowing it to wick into the knots and Kelim. c. Agitate to evenly disperse reducer. d. Allow short dwell time depending on the strength of your solution. e. Rinse fringe with hand tool. f. Wet vacuum after flushing reducing agent to remove all excess moisture from edges of pile and fringe. g. Inspect. h. Speed dry hanging fringe off edge of table with appropriate air movers.

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Dye Migration

a. Prepare a reducing agent (stripper, yellow go). b. Apply while fringe is on cleaning table, apply carefully (low enough to allow the chemical to wick up into the knots and kelim) and allow five to ten minutes for the reducer to react with the fugitive dyes. c. Rinse and flush the reducer out with the hottest water available using the hand tool. After going from one end to the other technicians should repeat the rinsing process in the opposite direction. d. After thoroughly flushing the reducer it’s a good idea to clean the fringe with a reducing shampoo (cotton ease) and sponge from one end to the other. e. Wet vacuum thoroughly to extract shampoo and any excess moisture from pile edge and fringe. f. Inspect and repeat the process as necessary. g. Dry fringe while it’s hanging from the cleaning table with appropriate number of air movers.

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CHAPTER 7

THE WRAP UPGrooming (Vacuuming and Finishing)

After drying completely, it is highly recommended that all rugs be vacuumed thoroughly to remove any particle soils that remain during and after cleaning, or those that wick to the pile’s surface during drying.

Further, dry detergent residues or pile stiffness, if any, can be removed with grooming and vacuuming as well. Groom the rug with a finishing brush, comb or rake in the direction of the pile for maximum light reflection, and for uniform appearance when first viewed by the customer.

Final Inspection

Remaining problems with the rug can be discovered during the vacuuming and grooming processes and should be corrected if possible. Be sure to note on the condition report/work order, any after cleaning problems that are discovered, along with those that remain unresolved, so that they can be discussed with the customer upon delivery and not appear to be overlooked.

Rolling and Wrapping

Roll rugs against their pile, ensuring the edges stay are kept pretty well aligned. Keep one end open so the fibers can absorb and release moisture. Do NOT close both ends.

The ideal storage condition for rugs is 70F/21C at 50% relative humidity.

Delivery

It is highly recommended that rugs be transported while laying flat in the delivery vehicle. Excessive bending to fit them into the vehicle can stretch foundation yarns causing ripples or breakage, or delaminate backings of tufted rugs.

Whether picked up by the customer or delivered to a home or office technicians should be prepared to show the rug and discuss cleaning procedures and remaining problems with the customer. This ensures complete understanding and prevents the necessity for a re-do.

Depending on the situation it may be necessary to replace damaged or contaminated pad when the rug is laid. Company technicians should be prepared to discuss the advantages of cushioning rugs while in use.

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Front Door 4

F: First ImpressionO: Oustanding Walk-ThruU: Unparralleled Cleaning ServiceR: Retention Focused Close

Stanley Steemer Oriental and Fine Area Rug Facilities take the Front Door 4 to another level. It goes beyond the client’s door and extends to our facility.

By taking our customer’s investments off-site, we assume responsibility until it is delivered back to them.

Knowing the verbiage and explaining procedures accompanied with a hand shake and a smile isn’t just a friendly first impression, it’s a professional impression that people know they can trust.

Expressing interest in their investment and being able to express the precautions we take to prevent inherent problems from rearing their ugly heads during the outstanding walkthrough doesn’t stop in their living room. It is our duty to keep our client’s informed during the process and alleviate any concerns they may have.

Our service is like no other. The most modern machinery, dedicated professionals, and a wonderful support system ensures our service is unparalleled.

By following this manual, knowing what you’re talking about and earning the trust of your customer, the “R” will take care of itself.

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NOTES

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