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OYLER BARBECUE PIT MODEL 700E/ 1300E

OPERATIONS AND SERVICE MANUAL

J&R MANUFACTURING, INC. (972) 285-48554855 (Texas) 820 W. Kearney (800) 527-4831 (All 50 States & Canada) Suite B (972) 289-0801 (Parts & Service) Mesquite, TX 75149 (972) 288-9488 (Fax)

J&R MANUFACTURING, INC. (972) 285-4855 (Texas)

820 W. Kearney (800) 527-4831 (50 states & Canada)

Suite B (972) 289-0801 (Parts and Service)

Mesquite, Texas 75149 (972) 288-9488 (Fax)

SN _______________

WARNINGS! Disposal of Ashes Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

Creosote – Formation and Need for Removal – When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice monthly to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosotehas accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

Dedicated flue

If this unit is to be directly vented (no exhaust hood) do not connect to a flue serving another appliance.

DANGER-Risk of Fire or Explosion Do not burn garbage, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable liquids

WARNING-Risk of Fire Do not operate with flue draft exceeding 0.03 in. water column. Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal doors open. Do not store fuel or other combustible material within marked installation clearances. Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly

CAUTION-Hot Surfaces Keep children away Do not touch during operation Maximum draft 0.03 in. water column

If the pit stops (lights go off, etc.) and the front door feels excessivelyhot to the touch, DO NOT OPEN THE PIT, as there may be a greasefire inside. The pit will automatically resume operation when it coolsdown. Open the doors only after it cools down.

NEVER OPEN A PIT DOOR UNTIL THE PIT HAS BEEN SWITCHED TO EVAC FOR AT LEAST 60 SECONDS.

OYLER BARBECUE PIT

MODELS 700E AND 1300E

OPERATIONS AND SERVICE MANUAL

MANUFACTURED BY:

J & R MANUFACTURING, INC. Rev. 1-13

CONTENTS

OYLER BARBECUE PIT MODEL 700E / 1300E

1

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

3

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

8

MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING

11

TROUBLESHOOTING

15

FIGURE 1 – SUGGESTED INSTALLATION

21

FIGURE 2 – MODEL 700E DETAIL SHEET

22

FIGURE 3 – THROUGH THE WALL INSTALLATION

23

FIGURE 4 – MODEL 1300E DETAIL SHEET

24

FIGURE 5 – SMOKESTACK INSTALLATION

25

FIGURE 6 – COOKING MODE

27

FIGURE 7 –DAMPER ACTUATORS 28 MODEL 700E & 1300E WIRING SCHEMATIC – 240 VOLT

29

WIRING SCHEMATIC FIGURE A

31

WIRING SCHEMATIC FIGURE B

33

THERMOSTAT MANUALS

35

WARRANTY

49

WOOD SOURCE

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OYLER BARBECUE PIT MODEL 700E / 1300E

COOK MODES

The “E” version of the Oyler Barbecue Pit Model 700/1300 uses electric heating elements in addition to wood fuel for the cooking heat source. Additional controls allow the operator to cook in one of two “Cook” Modes, “Standard” or “Dual Fuel”. In addition, a “Cook and Hold” feature can be utilized in either mode. The basic operation and use of the Oyler Barbecue Pit has not been altered. The control design of this unit incorporates the same basic operation sequencing of the standard 700/1300 series. Therefore, the basic Operating and Maintenance Instructions apply and should be referred to. STANDARD COOK MODE

This mode allows the use of electric heating elements in addition to wood fuel. Please note: the convection fan is engaged continuously in this mode, so overall cooking times will be reduced. Preheat pit in the “Standard Mode”. Load product and allow the pit to return to the desired cooking temperature. Once the unit has reached desired cooking temperature, turn the “HTR.ELM” switch to the “ON” position. A time delay built into the “Dual Fuel” circuitry will allow the wood fuel to be consumed first, utilizing the electric heating elements to “finish” the product. Used in this method, the operator can regulate the use of the heating elements (and wood fuel) in the cook cycle. A fully “stoked” firebox will delay (and may prevent) the use of the electric heating elements until late in the cook cycle. Consequently, a very small amount of wood fuel will bring on the elements much earlier. In either case the electric heating elements will guarantee that the thermostat set point will be maintained to the end of the cooking cycle. Optional method for use in the “Dual Fuel” mode: Same as described above, except turn the red switch labeled “HTR.ELM” to the “ON” position at the beginning of the preheat operation. Using the pit in this method will allow the time delay for the electric heating elements to “time out” during preheat and the electric elements will be used simultaneously with the wood fuel from the beginning of the cook cycle.

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Operation of the 700/1300 “E” Barbecue Pit in this mode is the same as described on page 8 under the paragraph titled “Start Up”. Turn the black “COOK/OFF – COOK/HOLD” switch to the “COOK” position. The yellow “EVAC” switch should be in the “ON” position and the “HTR.ELM” switch should be in the “OFF” position. Build a fire in the firebox using fresh cut hardwood. Please note: using the “EVAC” MODE WILL ACCELERATE THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A FIRE IN THE FIREBOX. Once an adequate fire has been established in the firebox, turn the “EVAC” switch to the “OFF” position and set the thermostat to the desired cooking temperature. For best results, allow the pit to preheat prior to loading the product. DUAL FUEL MODE

COOK AND HOLD MODE

The difference between this mode and “Cook” mode (“Standard or “Dual Fuel”) is the temperature control is shifted away from the primary thermostat to a fixed secondary (or Hold) thermostat after the operator set timer, located on the instrument panel, counts down. To utilize this feature, simply switch the black “COOK/OFF – COOK/HOLD” switch to the “Cook/Hold” position and set the timer for the amount of time you wish the unit to remain in the “Cook” mode before going into the “Hold” mode. This feature can be utilized when cooking in either the “Standard” or “Duel Fuel” modes. One point to remember when setting the timer, is that there is a slow “ramp-down” from the primary (initial) thermostat set point to the secondary (Hold) thermostat set point (non adjustable: fixed at 150º F). During this “ramp-down” the product will continue to cook, therefore, setting the timer for the same amount of time (cook cycle) that you would normally use will produce an over cooked product. The timer setting should be significantly reduced to compensate for this “ramp-down”. Some experimentation by the operator will be necessary to fine-tune the use of the “Hold” feature. Example: Primary thermostat set at 200º F for cooking beef brisket. You might set the timer for 8 hours (assuming a 4 hour “Hold” period). Please note: In the “Dual Fuel” mode the convection fan is engaged continuously. However, when control is shifted to the secondary (Hold) thermostat in the “Cook and Hold” mode the convection fan will cycle off each time the fixed thermostat reaches its set point. IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE NOTE:

In addition to the maintenance procedures described elsewhere in this manual, the electric heating elements and the convection fan impeller should be inspected regularly, daily if possible, and cleaned if necessary. If there is a heavy build up of soot or creosote, these surfaces should be cleaned with a stiff brush and/or a commercial degreaser. This is especially important if the “Dual Fuel” mode is not used each cook cycle.

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

MODEL 700E AND MODEL 1300E SHIPPING The unit will be shipped fully assembled. A Model 700E will weigh 4,200 pounds and a Model 1300E will weigh 6,600 pounds. The meat racks will be packed inside the cooking compartment. If you ordered a smokestack kit, it will also be packed inside. There will be a grease drain valve packed inside the firebox, along with the firebox door handle. To move a Model 700E into your building, you will need a minimum opening of 60 inches in width and 86 inches in height (60” X 86”). For a Model 1300E, you will need a minimum opening of 72 inches in width and 95 inches in height (72” X 95”). The height requirements can be reduced by 6 ½” by removing the motors and stack ring on the top of the unit. HANDLING A Model 700E can be handled with a forklift if the lift has a 6,000 pound capacity. A Model 1300E will require an 8,000 pound lift. The extra capacity lifts are necessary due to the size of the units. Whenever possible, the unit should be trucked from the rear. Alternatively, a crane can be used by rigging onto the four lifting lugs welded onto the top of the unit. FOUNDATION It is recommended that the unit be placed on a four to six inch thick concrete pad as shown on Figures 1 and 3. This pad should be sized to be four inches larger than the pit in both dimensions (ex: Model 700E pad should be 59 ¾” by 108” or 117” for a rear firebox). This elevates the pit drain valve an additional four to six inches off the floor and facilitates grease handling. With a pad, the bottom of the grease drain valve would be nine to eleven inches off your finished floor versus five inches without a pad. We offer a four or six inch high structural steel base frame to use in lieu of a concrete pad. Alternatively, you may use a shallow grease pan, pump the grease to your storage area, or pipe the grease to an adjacent location where an elevation difference would permit the use of a deeper pan. Use Figures 2 and 4 to locate the pit in your building so that the smokestack can be installed vertically with no offsets (avoiding building structural members). Whether a pad is used or not, the pit should be installed on a solid, level, non-combustible surface. DRAIN There is one drain connection on the pit. This drain is used for draining the grease and cleaning the cooking chamber. It extends from the side of the pit near the center and close to the bottom. Install the drain valve onto the threaded pipe nipple. If possible, a floor drain should be located near this drain valve as suggested in Figures 1 and 3. This will be of convenience when the pit is being cleaned.

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AIR BALANCE The building air balance is very important to the proper operation of your Oyler Pit. The Oyler design is based on the induction of air into the pit due to the “stack effect” of the chimney. The “stack effect” is the term used to describe the upward airflow created in a chimney based on the chimney height and the temperature difference between the bottom (inlet) and top (discharge). This “stack effect” induces airflow into the oven chamber via the front door opening (when the doors are open) and into the firebox when the firebox is open or when the firebox combustion air damper is open. Disruptions of this airflow can be caused by mechanical exhaust fans, building that are too airtight (insufficient openings for incoming air), and chimney downdrafts created by wind. Such downdrafts are often created by nearby windbreaks, which are taller than the chimney top. For this reason, the chimney should be four feet taller than the surrounding rooftop including nearby parapet walls, and taller than adjacent buildings and trees. If air balance cannot be achieved by normal means, you should consider using a fan to assist the stack effect. A fan inline or on the terminus of a chimney can solve the problem. We recommend fans manufactured by Exhausto (www.us.exhausto.com) installed with variable fan speed controllers. These fans are available through J&R and other sources. FURDOWN As shown in Figure 1, we recommend a furdown (or draft curtain) surrounding the pit. This traps nuisance smoke and allows it to be vented through the annular space around the smokestack and out of the building. The furdown can be constructed of metal, sheetrock, or other non-combustible materials. If a furdown is used, we recommend that a 30-inch diameter metal sleeve be installed between the ceiling opening and the roof flashing. EYEBROW HOOD As shown in Figure 3, another method to capture nuisance smoke is to install a low volume eyebrow hood over the front of the pit. Please be advised that too much exhaust volume for such hoods can negate the smoke/air draft design of the pit, which is predicated on a front to rear air and smoke flow (see “Air Balance” above). Such hoods should be sized with fan volumes under 1000 CFM, with means to adjust the airflow to achieve an appropriate air balance. The eyebrow hood can be interlocked with the front door limit switch so that it is only energized when the front doors are opened. Eyebrow hoods must comply with NFPA 96 and local codes.

4

EXTERIOR INSTALLATION There are two types of exterior installations. The unit can be placed entirely outside or you may wish to have only the front part of the unit inside your building. In either case, the unit should be painted and the top seams sealed for exterior installation. A non-combustible weather covering (awning, shed, etc.) must be installed over the portion of the unit that stands outside. Check with local health codes for details regarding the installation and use of an outdoor cooking device. THROUGH THE WALL INSTALLATION If this type if installation is selected (shown in Figure 3), we recommend that only the front 2.25 inches of the pit protrude through the finished wall surface to facilitate wall flashing/trim but to still allow access to the electrical junction box. The side access panel to the motor/gearbox will be blocked but all necessary access can be gained through the front access panel. ELECTRICAL The pit requires 240 volt, 1 phase, 70 amp electrical service. A switch or circuit breaker should be installed near the pit. It will be necessary during certain maintenance procedures to shut off the electrical supply to the pit. At these times, it is a good safety procedure to tag the switch to guard against someone inadvertently re-energizing the circuit. A junction box is secured to the top of the pit near the front (see Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4). Your electrician should extend a conduit from the pit junction box to a 240 volt supply in your building using a grounded circuit. Please refer to your local electrical code for any other requirements. CONNECT AT JUNCTION BOX ONLY.

5

SMOKESTACK A smokestack is required for proper operation of the pit. It should be at least 10 feet in height (from the pit to the top of the stack) and 18 inches in diameter. Please check your local mechanical and fire codes prior to installing the smokestack TO ENSURE THAT THE PROPER STACK IS CHOSEN AND THAT IT IS CORRECTLY INSTALLED. The stack should be straight and vertical with no offsets. If offsets must be used, additional stack height will be required. If the stack is penetrating your roof, it should extend at least four feet above the roof line. If you ordered a stack kit, refer to Figure 5 for installation instructions. A 30-inch diameter roof opening is recommended. This provides a six-inch annular space around the smokestack for combustion air to enter your building as well as a path for nuisance smoke to exit the building. Single wall metal smokestacks should only be used in non-combustible installations (again, with local code authority approval). This means that there will be NOTHING combustible above the pit (building structure, ceiling, above ceiling storage, roof, etc.). The preferred stack alternative is a manufactured Class A stack, listed for use with solid fuels. These are available from J&R or from other vendors and contractors. For these stacks we permit the use of 14-inch diameter instead of 18-inch diameter. A stack connector adapter to transition from 18-inch to 14-inch is available from J&R. It is always recommended that a qualified roofing contractor be employed to make penetrations and weather seals in any roof. The smokestack must be vented in compliance with the National Fire Protection Association Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces and Vents, NFPA No. 211. This unit falls under the classification of “Residential or Low Heat Appliances”. If a smokestack is installed which is more than 12 feet in height or if a mechanical exhaust fan is employed, the draft could exceed the maximum indicated on the nameplate (0.03 inches W.C.). The actual draft must be checked at a point in the stack connector, not more than two inches up. If the draft is higher than the maximum at full firing conditions, a barometric draft regulator must be used. The draft regulator must be installed in the same room as the unit. CLEARANCE The unit must be installed to conform to the following minimum clearances from any combustibles: ABOVE TOP OF

CASING FROM FRONT FROM BACK FROM SIDES FROM CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

The unit must be installed on a non-combustible floor. MEAT RACKS Remove each meat rack from the cooking compartment. Install the lower racks one at a time into the pit by hanging the racks on the horizontally matching pins on the rotisserie wheels. When the lower shelves are installed, fit the upper shelves onto the upper shelf brackets. (See page 7 for instructions on installing Model 700 racks.)

6

12 48 6 6 6

MODEL 700 - WIRE RACKS

WIRE RACKS AND HANGERS ARE SHIPPED UNASSEMBLED SO THEY MAY BE USED WHERE REQUIRED IN THE UNIT. HOWEVER, THEY MUST BE PROPERLY ASSEMBLED BEFORE USE TO REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF A RACK JAM. PLEASE FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BELOW. 1) LOWER RACKS MUST HAVE THE FOUR (4) "NIBS" ON THEIR BOTTOM SIDE REMOVED.

2) THE LOWER PAIR OF HOOKS ON EACH HANGER MUST BE BENT CLOSED AROUND LOWER RACK SIDE RAILS.

3) UPPER RACKS MUST BE SECURELY LOCATED ON UPPER HOOKS (DOUBLE) OR UPPER RAILS (TRIPLE) SO THEY HOLD POSITION FIRMLY.

7

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

MODEL 700E AND MODEL 1300E START-UP After the pit is installed, leveled, stacked, and connected to the electrical supply, check for proper operation:

(a) Turn the thermostat set point above and then below the actual

temperature. The combustion air damper on the firebox should open and close. Open the access door at the rear of the pit and verify that the “exit flue damper” (see Figure 6) opens and closes in synchronization with the damper on the firebox door. If the internal temperature of the pit is below 100° F., the combustion air damper will remain open (the lowest setting on the thermostat is 100° F.).

(b) Turn the pit On/Off switch to “On”, and push-in and hold the

mushroom switch – the racks should rotate. With the On/Off switch “On”, the racks will rotate automatically when the front doors are closed and latched.

(c) Open the front doors or turn the “EVAC” switch on. Verify that the

two large bypass dampers open (located over the firebox). BUILDING A FIRE NEVER USE CHARCOAL LIGHTING FLUID, GASOLINE, OR OTHER VOLATILE FUELS TO START THE FIRE. Load several small pieces of wood in the firebox. Open the front oven doors or turn the “Evac” switch on. This opens two dampers in the rear of the pit and allows the firebox to be vented directly to the smokestack. Hickory wood is recommended whenever available. Next in preference is oak or mesquite. Generally, however, any nut or fruit bearing hardwood would be acceptable. For best results, the wood should be relatively green (cut within two months). Start the fire by using kindling, or safe (low volatility) solid fire starting aids. As the fire becomes established, add more wood to the fire until the firebox is about one-half to three-fourths full. Since you will probably be cooking every day, subsequent fire starting will be much easier. Live red coals will last about two days in the firebox, so restarting a fire is simply accomplished by loading fresh wood onto these live coals. Wood should be 24 inches long and up to 8 inches in diameter (logs should be split if larger than 8 inches in diameter). OPENING THE OVEN DOORS If the pit is fired-up and operating and the front doors are closed, there will be dense smoke inside the oven. If you unlatch the doors and open them quickly, you will get a face full of smoke. Instead, first turn the thermostat down to close the Firebox damper and then turn the “Evac” switch on or slightly open the front doors causing the bypass dampers to open and begin venting smoke up the stack. Wait about 45 seconds (the slightly open doors will help evacuate smoke by allowing a fresh air entry path into the pit) and then slowly open the doors. (Older pits without the motorized “Evac” function are similarly evacuated, but the front doors control the dampers by a mechanical linkage, so they need to be opened about 1/3 to 1/2 way).

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MEAT LOADING The first time the pit is fired, it is recommended that you allow it to operate for several hours while empty. This allows any residues (oil, paper, etc.) to be removed. After this is done, you may load meat onto the racks. Take care when loading to keep the load balanced. Place meat on each rack so that the rack remains level (does not tilt forward or rearward). Also, distribute the entire load so that the rotisserie is relatively balanced. In other words, if you have a pit with six racks, you should distribute about one-sixth of the entire load on each rack. If you are cooking very large items such as turkeys, take special care to insure that they cannot shift and roll off the shelves while cooking. You need to secure these large items to the shelves with butcher’s string or wire, or “chock” the items with stainless steel or rolled aluminum foil to prevent movement. Be sure that there is adequate clearance between the top of the meat items and the top of the cooking compartment. The most serious problem that can occur in your unit is a “rack jam”, in which racks become engaged between the rotisserie wheels and the body of the cooking compartment. If a jam should occur, the rotisserie wheels will become locked. There is an overload device in the electrical circuit to protect the motor. This overload device should trip in the event of a jam but damage to racks and other components may have been incurred. A jam usually occurs when the pit is improperly loaded. Sometimes all it takes is for one piece of meat to fall from its rack. This piece can fall onto other pieces causing them to fall. Soon there is an obstruction large enough in the bottom of the pit for a rack to hit it and become dislodged from its pins. If that rack becomes engaged in other racks, or one of the rotisserie wheels, then a rack jam occurs. By carefully loading your pit, you should never have to worry about this problem. After completing the meat loading, always observe at least one full revolution to make sure that all shelves are properly balanced. After the meat is loaded, set the thermostat to the desired temperature and close the oven doors. Refer to the table on the next page for cooking directions.

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SUGGESTED COOKING TIMES AND TEMPERATURES

MEAT ITEM TEMPERATURE* COOKING TIME**

Beef Brisket (12 – 14 Lbs.) 200° F. 14 Hours

Pork Shoulder (12 – 14 Lbs.) 200° F. 14 Hours

Pork Ribs (3 and down) 250° F. 3 Hours

Sausage 225° F. 1 Hour Hams (pre-cooked) 225° F. 2 Hours Turkeys (whole) 250° F. 45 Min.per Lb. Chicken Halves 250° F. 2 Hours

*Sensed at the midpoint of the pit. **These cooking times are based on a full loading in a Model 700 Pit (18 racks) and apply to the meat on the bottom racks. With decreased loadings, the cooking times should be reduced. The meat on the top racks will cook in less time. With the exception of turkeys and ribs, most pit operators do nothing to prepare meats prior to cooking. Usually, a dry seasoning mix (pepper, paprika, brown sugar, etc.) is sprinkled or rubbed onto ribs. Sometimes a liquid mixture of spices is injected beneath the skins of turkeys. Refer to our recipe book for more detailed information. GREASE Grease and water from the meat you cook will accumulate in the bottom of the cooking compartment. This should be drained from the pit daily. NOTE: Drain all grease and water out of the pit immediately after cooking poultry or seafood. FIREBOX ASHES Remove excess ashes daily to provide good air circulation among the logs in the firebox. Leave enough live coals in the firebox to ignite a new fire. Most operators shovel the ashes out of the firebox and into a metal container (such as a twenty-gallon ash can) and store this container in a safe location (away from any combustibles).

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MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING MODEL 700E AND MODEL 1300E

PIT DESIGN

Smoke and heat from the firebox enter the cooking compartment through refractory-lined flues. Smoke exits this area through a separate flue. Temperature control is effected by regulating the flow of combustion air into the firebox and the discharge from the cooking compartment. Dampers in the rear of the pit open in conjunction with the front doors so that smoke is carried out of the building through the smokestack rather than exiting out the oven doors.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

DAILY 1) Drain liquid from the pit and discard.

2) Remove excess ashes from the firebox and store/discard safely.

3) Clean the inside of the front doors and the inside of the firebox

door.

WEEKLY It is recommended that once a week you shut your unit down and clean it as follows:

Racks: Remove the racks from the pit and either

(a) Use detergent and hot water to clean them, or

(b) Use a high pressure hot water cleaning machine, or

(c) Use a wire brush to remove the residue, or

(d) If time permits, place the racks in a vat filled with water and a caustic chemical such as lye (or firebox ashes for economy). The racks will soak clean in approximately 24 hours. You may consider purchasing an extra set of racks so one set can clean while cooking with the other set.

(e) Always rinse with clean water after using cleaner or lye. Oven Interior: After draining all the liquid from the pit, you can either

(a) Use detergent (or buffered oven cleaner) and high pressure water, or

(b) Use a steam cleaning machine, or

(c) If high pressure water or a steam cleaning machine is not available, use a high strength buffered oven cleaner and spray it onto the interior oven surfaces. Dilute the cleaner as directed on the label. Use some type of pump sprayer to apply the solution onto the oven interior surfaces. Let the solution set for about 15 minutes and wash the interior walls with water (hot water, if available), or

Use a scraper and shovel to remove the residue and flush with detergent and hot water.

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(e) Leave the racks in place and fill the pit with a hot water/oven cleaner solution up to the middle of the exit flue opening. Heat the pit up to 250° and allow the racks to revolve. Continue for at least 4 hours, drain and rinse the pit thoroughly.

Drain the washings from the pit through the drain valve (see Figure 1). If a floor drain is not adjacent to the drain valve, attach a hose or pipe to the valve and extend it over to a suitable drain. PLEASE NOTE

Methods (a), (b), and (c) are operable only if pit is cleaned every week. If several weeks pass between cleanings, the cleaner will not penetrate and remove the residue.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST

EVERY 45 DAYS BEARINGS: Remove the access cover below the front oven doors. The rotisserie bearings have lubrication extensions that terminate with grease fittings located near the motor starter enclosure. Use a high temperature grease (Lubri-Plate 930-2 is recommended) and a cartridge-type automotive grease gun. NOTE: Low-temperature grease will harden at high temperatures and damage the bearings. CHAIN: Lubricate the chain with the same high temperature grease. Open the front access door below the pit doors to access the chain. Check the chain tension and adjust as necessary. EXIT FLUE CLEANING: Clean this flue thoroughly from inside the cooking compartment or remove the rear access cover adjacent to the flue and clean it from the rear of the pit with the flue damper open. NOTE: If this flue is not kept clean, the solids accumulation will corrode the flue and/or retard the passage of smoke from the oven to the stack, causing soot and/or temperature control problems. EVERY 6 MONTHS 1. Inspect and repair as needed all gaskets. This includes the front door

gaskets, the two bypass gaskets, and the exit flue gasket. 2. Inspect and adjust, repair, or replace the front door latch. 3. Check the temperature control mechanism for proper operation. Cycle

the thermostat and make sure the combustion air damper and exit flue damper are opening and closing (tightly). Lubricate all linkages at the rear of the pit. Remove the thermostat faceplate and spray the moving parts with a spray lubricant.

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4. Check the evacuation (bypass) system for proper operation. Open the front doors and make sure that the bypass dampers operate properly. They should seal tightly when the front doors are closed and latched (and the “Evac” switch, if the pit is equipped with one, is off).

5. Clean excess carbon build-up or residue from the rear area of the pit,

including the inside of the access door above the firebox, the firebox door and the area around the firebox door.

DOOR GASKETS The oven door gasket should be smoke-tight. To stop smoke leaks, you may need to shim the hinge side, the latch side or both. You may also need to “thicken” the gasketing by using additional RTV silicone between the gasket and the body of the unit. Gaskets can be checked with a “paper test”. Insert a strip of paper so that it is between the door and the gasket and extends outside the pit. Close and latch the door. Pull the paper towards you. It should be very resistant to your effort. If it seems loose, further adjust the door or the gasket thickness.

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BLANK PAGE

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TROUBLESHOOTING

1). PROBLEM Combustion air damper and exit flue fails to open and close. CAUSES One of the following components is inoperative:

(a) the thermostat,

(b) the damper motor, or

(c) the linkage between the motor and the dampers. PROCEDURE

(a) Open the access door to flues and dampers. (see Figure 1)

(b) Make sure that the linkage is attached to the motor and that all pivot pins are in place. A simple adjustment of tension may be all that is necessary.

(c) Turn the pit electrical circuit back on. With an electrical circuit tester, check to see if the actuator motor circuit is live by turning the thermostat to its highest setting and check the motor lead-in wires. If either wire is “hot”, shut off the pit electrical supply and replace the motor.* If neither wire is “hot”, turn the circuit off and remove the instrument panel on the front of the pit. Make sure that the thermostat lead-in wires are in place. Check the lead-in wires to the thermostat with a circuit tester. If either is “hot”, replace the thermostat or the micro-switch inside the thermostat.

* If the motor is very warm to the touch, it may be that the motor is okay but mal-adjusted so that it is going out on its internal overload. Check for proper adjustment of the linkage before replacing the motor.

2). PROBLEM Adequate cooking temperatures cannot be maintained

and / or excessive smoke leakage from the pit.

CAUSES One of the following:

(a) the combustion air damper and exit flue damper are not opening,

(b) there is a restriction in the smoke exit system,

(c) there is excessive heat loss due to the bypass dampers not sealing properly,

(d) there is insufficient make-up air supply, or

(e) there is insufficient wood in the firebox.

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PROCEDURE

(a) Proceed as in problem 1, if the combustion damper and exit flue are not opening.

(b) Verify that the exit flue is clean.

(a) If the problem still exists, make sure that the two large bypass dampers are sealing against their respective gasketed seats. A problem with these dampers could affect the pit temperature, but it would not explain a smoke leakage problem.

(d) If none of the above problems is evident, then there is insufficient combustion air for the firebox.

3). PROBLEM Excessive smoke emissions from the oven doors when they

are open.

CAUSES One of the following:

(a) rear bypass dampers are not opening,

(b) negative air pressure in room (usually caused by exhaust fans), or

(c) insufficient make-up air.

SOLUTION

(a) Open the access door to the flues and dampers. Inspect the bypass dampers for proper operation. They should both open when the front doors are opened.

(b) If they do not open with the front doors, inspect the linkages at the rear of the pit. On older pits a long actuating arm connects the rear damper linkages with another linkage above one of the front doors. This front linkage is attached to the pivot shaft of the front door on the firebox side of the oven. The front linkage can be inspected by removing the instrument panel at the front of the pit. It may be necessary to remove one of the skin sections from the top of the pit to repair a front linkage problem. On newer pits, there is a damper motor that moves the rear damper linkages to open and close the dampers. This motor actuates to open the dampers when the front doors open, or when the “Evac” switch is turned on. If the dampers do not open check the linkages, then check the damper motor, then check the door limit switch and the “Evac” switch.

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4). PROBLEM Rotisserie does not revolve.

CAUSES One or more of the following: (a) motor failure,

(b) circuit failure,

(c) gearbox failure,

(d) broken chain,

(e) loose sprocket, or

(f) the overload device has tripped.

PROCEDURE

(a) Inspect the cooking compartment to be sure that the rotisserie assembly has not jammed. If the assembly is okay and the load is evenly balanced, turn the rotisserie switch to the “off” position and let it sit for about five minutes, then press the reset button on the contactor/overload assembly and try the rotisserie switch again. If it still does not revolve, proceed to Step (b).

If there has been a rack jam you will also need to proceed to the next step. Other damage may have been incurred, however, such as damaged racks or rotisserie wheel pins, or rotisserie shaft. The racks can probably be straightened and reused. If they cannot be reused, replace them with new racks. The shaft can usually be repaired by heating it with a torch and twisting or bending as needed until it is straight. In severe cases, however, you will need to replace the shaft by cutting it free from the welds that secure it to the rotisserie wheels and installing a new shaft and rewelding it.

(b) Make sure that the circuit breaker feeding the pit has not tripped. If it has, reset it and try to operate the rotisserie. If it trips again or if the rotisserie shaft still does not rotate, proceed with the next step.

(a) Open the motor/gearbox access door. If the gearbox output shaft is rotating but the sprocket is not, then shut the circuit off and tighten the sprocket onto the shaft.

NOTE: Make sure the 1/4 inch square key is in place on the output shaft. If the chain is broken, repair it. If the chain is moving, check the rotisserie shaft sprocket and make sure the key is in place in the keyway.

(d) If the motor is running but the output shaft on the gearbox is not rotating, proceed to Step (e). If the motor is not running, proceed to Step (f).

(e) Shut the pit circuit off and remove the motor and gearbox assembly by removing the bolts holding the gearbox onto the base plate. Remove the motor from the gearbox and inspect the coupling between the two. If it is not broken, replace the gearbox.

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(f) If the motor does not run, shut the electrical supply to the pit off and remove the gearbox and motor assembly as indicated above. Separate the two, energize the pit circuit, and turn the rotisserie switch on. If the motor runs, replace the gearbox. If it does not run, replace the motor; however, check the gearbox by rotating the input shaft manually. The output shaft should rotate (remember the output will rotate much slower than the input). If it does not rotate, the gearbox is also defective.

5). PROBLEM Black residue (carbon) on the meat after cooking or “creosote” odor in smoke.

CAUSES One or more of the following:

(a) improper wood,

(b) too much wood in the firebox, or

(c) improper draft. PROCEDURE

(a) Check smoke exit flue and the stack and clean if necessary to

remove any obstructions.

(b) If a new supply of wood is being used, check its type and be sure it is not the problem by using some wood from your regular supply.

(c) Too much wood in the firebox can cause this problem. Also, if your wood is dry, it can occur. Soot is produced when there is inadequate oxygen available for complete combustion. When you build a roaring fire in the firebox by using too much wood or wood that is too dry, there may be insufficient oxygen available. Reduce the amount of wood you charge into the firebox when this problem occurs.

6.) PROBLEM Rotisserie not revolving smoothly.

CAUSES One or more of the following:

(a) the chain is loose,

(b) the gearbox is defective, or

(c) one of the sprockets is not secured to its shaft.

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PROCEDURE

(a) Shut the pit circuit off and tag it. Open the motor/gearbox access door. Inspect the chain. It should not have excessive slack over or under the gearbox sprocket. If it does, remove any meat that might be on the racks and loosen the four bolts securing the gearbox to its base. Pull the gearbox toward the front of the pit and re-secure the bolts.

(b) If the chain was not loose, inspect the gearbox sprocket and rotisserie sprocket to be sure they are secured properly to their respective shafts.

(c) If they are, then inspect the gearbox as indicated in the section discussing a rotisserie that fails to revolve.

7). PROBLEM Product is cooking too fast or too slow.

CAUSES One or more of the following:

(a) thermostat is out of calibration, or

(b) the dampers are not functioning properly.

PROCEDURE

(a) Check dampers as described in Problems 1 and 2.

(b) Calibrate as follows:

(1) Use a portable hotplate or other device to safely boil water in a pan.

(2) Carefully remove the sensing probe from its mounting sleeves and insert it into the pan of rapidly boiling water. The probe must be completely submerged in the boiling water. The probe should not touch the sides of the pan. Adjust the thermostat to match the temperature of boiling water at your elevation.

(c) Adjust the thermostat as follows (refer to Appendix 1).

(1) Remove setting knob (loosen small set screw in knob)

and the cover plate.

(2) Loosen set screw “S”.

(3) Using the 3/16” wrench provided, turn shaft “J” accordingly until Black Indicating Pointer reading agrees with Digital Thermometer. Tighten set screw “S”.

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LEGEND

1. RAIN CAP2. COUNTER FLASHING3. ROOF JACK4. SMOKESTACK5. ACCESS PANEL TO GEARBOX, MOTOR, GREASE FITTINGS6. ACTUATOR MOTORS (6" HIGH)7. ACCESS DOORS TO FLUES AND DAMPERS

8. FURDOWN (SUGGESTION ONLY) 9. FIREBOX DOOR10. CONCRETE PAD (RECOMMENDED) 4 TO 6 INCHES HIGH OR USE STEEL BASE 11. DRAIN VALVE12. FLOOR DRAIN (RECOMMENDED)13. J-BOX FOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTION14. THERMOSTAT AND CONTROL SWITCHES

FIGURE 1

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Low Volume Exhaust Fan

Eyebrow Hood

Figure 3

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IM800-06www.ueonline.com

800 SeriesIndicating Temperature Controls

Types 800, T800, 802

Please refer to IMT120 for Explosion Proof Types820E and 822E

UNITED ELECTR IC CONTROLS

Installation and Maintenance Instructions

IM800-06

GENERAL Temperature variations are sensed by a liquid filled sensing bulb which hydraulically transmits motion through a mechanism which rotates the indi-cating pointer and actuates precision snap-acting switch(es). Control set point(s) are varied by turning the external adjustment knob(s), according to procedures outlined (See Part II - Adjustments). Thermometer type T800 provides temperature indication only with no snap-acting switch.

MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE: THE HIGHEST TEMPERATURE TO WHICH A SENSING ELEMENT MAY BE OCCASIONALLY OPERATED WITHOUT ADVERSELY AFFECTING SET POINT CALIBRATION AND REPEATABILITY. MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE STATED IN LITERATURE AND ON NAMEPLATE MUST NEVER BE EXCEEDED, EVEN BY SURGES IN THE SYSTEM. OCCASIONAL OPERATION OF UNIT UP TO MAX. TEMPERATURE IS ACCEPTABLE (E.G., START-UP, TESTING). CONTINUOUS OPERATION SHOULD BE RESTRICTED TO THE DESIGNATED ADJUSTABLE RANGE.

Please refer to product bulletins for product specifications. Product bulletins may be found at www.ueonline.com.

Part I -InstallationTools Needed

Phillips screwdriver to secure customer supplied screws

5/64” Allen Wrench

INSTALL UNIT WHERE SHOCk, VIBRATION AND TEMPERATURE FLUC-TUATIONS ARE MINIMAL. DO NOT MOUNT UNIT IN AMBIENT TEMPERA-TURES EXCEEDING PUBLISHED LIMITS. ORIENT UNIT SO THAT MOIS-

TURE IS PREVENTED FROM ENTERING THE ENCLOSURE.

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE / PERIODIC TESTING (6 MONTHS OR SOONER AS DICTATED BY THE ENVIRONMENT) IS NECESSARY TO ENSURE OPERATION OF THE PRODUCT TO SPECIFICATION. LUBRICATE ALL PIVOT POINTS AND

MOVING PARTS, TO PREVENT CORROSION, WITH COMPATIBLE DRY LUBRICANTS OR LIGHT GREASE.

When mounting 800 or 802 type controls, it may be necessary to remove adjustment knob and front cover. The knob is secured with a 5/64” Allen Setscrew. The cover is secured by four phillips screws at the corners.

MouNTINGThe controller may be mounted in any position to either a surface or panel

(1/4” thick maximum). Locate it where vibration, shock and ambient tempera-ture fluctuations are minimal. It is recommended that mounting the unit with the conduit connection on the top be avoided.

To Flush Mount Cut out the panel as shown in Figure 1A. Mount to the panel using the two holes located on the flange of the enclosure.

To Surface MountAttach 2 mounting ears found in separate package to recessed areas on back side of enclosure by means of 2 self-tapping screws. Mount to surface per Figure 1B.

Mounting Bulb and CapillaryFully immerse the bulb and 6” of capillary in the control zone. For best con-trol it is generally desirable to place the bulb close to the heating or cooling source in order to sense temperature fluctuations quickly. Be sure to locate the bulb so it will not be exposed to temperature beyond the instruments range limits.

Try to place any remaining capillary adjacent to the control head so it will sense the same ambient temperatures (control is ambient temperature com-pensated).

Unless otherwise specified, factory calibration, allows for 6” of capillary tube in the control zone. If longer lengths are required recalibration may be nec-essary. Follow the procedure outlined in PART II - Adjustments.

Avoid bending or coiling the capillary tube tighter than 1/2” radius.Exercise caution when making bends near the capillary ends.

If a separable well or union connector is used follow separate instructions included with them.

Please read all instructional literature carefully and thoroughly before starting. Refer to the final page for the listing of Recommended Practices, Liabilities and Warranties.

Figure 1A - Flush Mounting

Clearance for #8 screw - (2) places

Clearance for #10 screw - (2) places

Figure 1B - Surface Mounting

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IM800-06www.ueonline.com

WIRING

DISCONNECT ALL SUPPLY CIRCUITS BEFORE WIRING. ELECTRICAL RATINGS STATED IN LITERATURE AND ON NAMEPLATE SHOULD NEVER BE EXCEEDED. OVERLOAD ON A SWITCH CAN CAUSE FAILURE

ON THE FIRST CYCLE. WIRE UNITS ACCORDING TO LOCAL AND NATIONAL ELECTRICAL CODES. MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED WIRE SIzE IS 14 AWG.

Types 800, 802Connect the electrical conduit to the case securing it with the grounding locknut supplied.

Note: Unless control is connected to a metallic conduit, grounding bushing should be removed from grounding wire. A separate conductor should be pro-vided from grounding system directly to the non-current carrying metal parts of control (splice the grounding wire).

Conduit opening is available on the left side as standard. It can be supplied on the right side on request. Wire through the 7/8” conduit hole directly to the lead-wire(s) provided, color coded as follows, or to the optional terminal block.

Switch 1 Switch 2

Common Violet YellowNormally Open Blue OrangeNormally Closed Black Red

See wiring Diagrams Figure 2A and 2B.

Part II - AdjustmentsTools Needed

5/64” Allen Wrench5/16” Open End Wrench (2 required)

Phillips and slotted tip screwdriver

Single Switch Type 800Move the set point Adjustment Pointer (red) up scale beyond the black Indicating Pointer. This permits checking the set point by moving the lever arm upward with a finger or tool simulating thermal assembly movement. Connect test lights to indicate switch operation or listen for the switch to click. Loosen adjustment “A” and move the Adjustment Pointer until it agrees with the Indicating Pointer. When the switch clicks re-tighten the screw.

Dual Switch Type 802Type 802 has a separate knob and pointer for each switch. Turn black knob for switch #2 and turn green inserted knob for switch #1. Set points are shown by individual pointers and may be separated up to 100% of dial range apart, so long as the red pointer is set higher than the green pointer.

To align either switch to the Adjustment Pointer the corresponding adjustment “A” must be loosened and the Adjustment Pointer set to the Indicating Pointer, then tighten adjustment “A”.

Note: Switch #1, green pointer, cannot be set to operate at a higher setting than switch #2, red pointer.

Connect test lights to indicate switch operation or listen for the individual switch clicks. The separation between switches is the difference between the high and low set points. The set points are determined by setting individual adjustment pointers and may be separated up to 100% of scale range apart.

Replace cover and adjustment knob if removed during installation. Controller is ready for operation. Turn setting pointer to desired control temperature and start up the process. To suit particular process conditions or for greater controller accuracy it may be desirable to make slight alterations to the set point or indicator reading. Procedures for making these adjustments are described below.

In-Process AdjustmentsUse an accurate test thermometer such as a thermocouple with its probe mounted directly to the center of the sensing bulb. Before making any adjustments, allow process temperature to stabilize; i.e., successive on-off cycles repeated.

Note: Prior to making any controller adjustments, the cover and adjustment knobs should be removed. The adjustment knob slides off adjustment shaft for all controls except the 802. The 802 requires a 5/64” allen wrench. When adjustments are completed, all applicable parts should be replaced.

Correct any difference between the Indicating Pointer and the test ther-mometer by holding the compensator with a 5/16” wrench while turning the zero adjustment “C” on the thermal assembly with a second 5/16” wrench, per Figure 3 until the brown Indicating Pointer reads the same as the test thermometer. Turning clockwise lowers indicated reading. Compare the pro-cess temperature with the set point Adjustment Pointer. Loosen adjustment screw “A” to align set point Adjustment Pointer with the Indicating Pointer. Re-tighten screw “A”.

N.C. N.O. COM.

N.C. N.O. COM.ORANGEREDYELLOWVIOLETBLUEBLACK

Figure 2A - Dual Switch

N.C. N.O. COM.

Plunger

BLUEBLACKVIOLET

Figure 2B - Single Switch

N.C. N.O. COM.

N.C. N.O.

BLUEBLACKVIOLETORANGEREDYELLOW

COM.

DUAL SWITCH

BLUEBLACKVIOLET

SINGLE SWITCH

N.C. N.O. COM.

Plunger

Figure 2C - Terminal Block option

Optional terminal block wiring is available for single or dual switch controls (option M100). See Figure 2C

(Refer to Figure 3)

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IM800-06www.ueonline.com

Adjusting Thermometer Type T800Use the in-process adjustment to check the control. Differences between the test instrument and the thermometer can be corrected by turning the zero adjustment “C” per Figure 3 on the thermal assembly. Turning in lowers indicated reading.

Note: Indicating Pointer Deflection: The indicating pointers will read slightly low when the bulb temperature is 15° above the controller setting. This deflection is normal and repeatable (approximately 0.5% of scale range on single switch models) and is due to the transference of the switching mechanism load to the thermal system. It can be measured by moving the setting pointer from the high to the low end of the scale and observing the resultant indicating pointer deflection.

Correction of CapillaryIf the length of capillary immersed in the process differs from the amount immersed at the factory calibration bath, a calibration shift will occur. The error may be corrected as follows:

Move set pointer to the highest temperature setting. Note indicating scale reading with the head and sensor at room temperature. Loosen the two thermal assembly mounting screws. Re-position the housing index against the calibration on the instrument case (or skeleton casting) at a rate of 1 division line per capillary length listed in the following column. Move to the left if capillary is to be added to the process, or to the right if capillary is to be removed from process.

Model Number Range Cap Length/Division*

1 -180 to 120°F 2 ft

2 -125 to 350°F 1 1/2 ft

3 -125 to 500°F 1 ft

4 -40 to 120°F 4 ft

5 -40 to 180°F 3 ft

6 0 to 250°F 2 1/2 ft

7 0 to 400°F 2 ft

8 50 to 650°F 2 ft

* Added to or taken away from the process.

Tighten the two thermal assembly mounting screws. Note change indicated scale reading (if any).

Turn zero adjustment “C” to bring indicating pointer reading back to the origi-nal reading noted before. Turning in lowers indicated reading.

Note: The thermal assembly can be returned to its original position by align-ing its flange with the line scribed on the instrument case.

COMPENSATOR

SWITCH 1

SWITCH 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Dimension AModel Inches mm

1BS 3-3/4 95.32BS 2-5/8 66.73BS 2-1/8 54.04BS 6-3/4 171.55BS 5 127.06BS 4-1/2 114.37BS 3 76.28BS 3-1/4 82.6

SET POINTADJUSTMENTPOINTER(RED)

Dimensions

General Layout

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IM800-06www.ueonline.com

CP01101500

RECoMMENDED PRACTICES AND WARNINGS United Electric Controls Company recommends careful consideration of the following factors when specifying and installing UE pressure and temperature units. Before installing a unit, the Installation and Maintenance instructions provided with unit must be read and understood.

• To avoid damaging unit, proof pressure and maximum temperature limits stated in literature and on nameplates must never be exceeded, even by surges in the system. Operation of the unit up to maximum pressure or temperature is acceptable on a limited basis (e.g., start-up, testing) but continuous operation must be restricted to the designated adjustable range. Excessive cycling at maximum pressure or temperature limits could reduce sensor life.

• A back-up unit is necessary for applications where damage to a primary unit could endanger life, limb or property. A high or low limit switch is necessary for applications where a dangerous runaway condition could result.

• The adjustable range must be selected so that incorrect, inadvertent or malicious setting at any range point cannot result in an unsafe system condition.

• Install unit where shock, vibration and ambient temperature fluctuations will not damage unit or affect operation. Orient unit so that moisture does not enter the enclosure via the electrical con-nection. When appropriate, this entry point should be sealed to prevent moisture entry.

• Unit must not be altered or modified after shipment. Consult UE if modification is necessary. • Monitor operation to observe warning signs of possible damage to unit, such as drift in set

point or faulty display. Check unit immediately.• Preventative maintenance and periodic testing is necessary for critical applications where dam-

age could endanger property or personnel.• For all applications, a factory set unit should be tested before use.• Electrical ratings stated in literature and on nameplate must not be exceeded. Overload on a

switch can cause damage, even on the first cycle. Wire unit according to local and national electrical codes, using wire size recommended in installation sheet.

• Do not mount unit in ambient temp. exceeding published limits.

LIMITED WARRANTY

Seller warrants that the product hereby purchased is, upon delivery, free from defects in material and workmanship and that any such product which is found to be defective in such workmanship or mate-rial will be repaired or replaced by Seller (Ex-works, Factory, Watertown, Massachusetts. INCOTERMS); provided, however, that this warranty applies only to equipment found to be so defective within a period of 24 months from the date of manufacture by the Seller. Seller shall not be obligated under this war-ranty for alleged defects which examination discloses are due to tampering, misuse, neglect, improper storage, and in any case where products are disassembled by anyone other than authorized Seller’s representatives. EXCEPT FOR THE LIMITED WARRANTY OF REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT STATED ABOVE, SELLER DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES WHATSOEVER WITH RESPECT TO THE PRODUCT, INCLUDING ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

LIMITATIoN oF SELLER’S LIABILITY

Seller’s liability to Buyer for any loss or claim, including liability incurred in connection with (i) breach of any warranty whatsoever, expressed or implied, (ii) a breach of contract, (iii) a negligent act or acts (or negligent failure to act) committed by Seller, or (iv) an act for which strict liability will be inputted to seller, is limited to the “limited warranty” of repair and/or replacement as so stated in our warranty of product. In no event shall the Seller be liable for any special, indirect, consequential or other damages of a like general nature, including, without limitation, loss of profits or production, or loss or expenses of any nature incurred by the buyer or any third party.

UE specifications subject to change without notice.

U N I T E D E L E C T R I C C O N T R O L S

180 Dexter Avenue, P.O. Box 9143Watertown, MA 02471-9143 USATelephone: 617 926-1000 Fax: 617 926-2568http://www.ueonline.com

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WARRANTY J & R MANUFACTURING, INC. warrants its equipment against defective parts and workmanship under normal use and when installed in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations for a period of six (6) months on parts and thirty (30) days on labor with the following provisions:

1. This warranty does not apply if problems or claims are the result of: (a) damage in transit (equipment becomes owner’s property upon shipment from factory and owner must file claim with transport company); (b) misuse, neglect, improper maintenance, and or unauthorized alterations to equipment; (c) improper installation of exhaust stacks, air supply, and extraneous exhaust systems; (d) improper voltage hook-up; (e) wind, rain, hail, fire and acts of God.

2. In-warranty replacement parts will be credited only upon receipt

and inspection of defective parts at the factory. All shipping charges are the responsibility of the owner.

3. Labor to remove, replace, or repair defects under this warranty

must be authorized by factory. Premium time (overtime) and travel time are not included in the warranty.

4. Sales, excise, and other taxes, food loss, and down-time are not

covered under this warranty.

5. The removal of manufacturer’s nameplate(s) voids the warranty. It is the aim of J & R Manufacturing, Inc. to build the finest equipment possible and to facilitate quick solutions to all problems that might arise with the lowest expense possible to the user(s). To help us achieve this goal, please follow these procedures:

1. Telephone our service department at 972-289-0801 at the first sign of

a problem. Have ready the Model and Serial Number of your equipment.

2. Cooperate with our Service Department by making certain visual

checks as requested. Most problems are quick and easy to pinpoint and resolve.

3. In the event it is necessary to use a service company, the factory will

contact its authorized service agency. If no authorized service agency is available, please recommend a service company. The use of a service company not specifically authorized by our Service Department at factory headquarters may invalidate this warranty.

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