THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Dean Starnes, Celeste Brash, Virginia Jealous

the Lomaiviti GroupOvalau &

Yasawa GroupsThe Mamanuca &

p181Kadavu, Lau & Moala Groups

p150Vanua Levu & Taveuni

p137

p112

p44Nadi, Suva & Viti Levu

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z .................. 224Transport ......................... 232Language ......................... 240Index ................................ 256Map Legend ..................... 263

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Accommodation Five-star hotels, B&Bs, hostels, motels, resorts, tree-houses, bungalows on the beach, campgrounds and vil-lage homestays – there’s no shortage of accommodation

ptions in Fiji. See the ‘Which nd?’ chapter, p 25 , for

ng tips and a run-down hese options.

Post offices 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday and 8am to 11.30am SaturdayRestaurants lunch 11am to 2pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm or 10pmShops 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1pm Saturday

Customs Regulations Visitors can leave Fiji without

student-travel agenciesdiscounts on internatioairfares to full-time stuwho have an InternatioStudent Identity Card (Application forms are aable at these travel ageStudent discounts aresionally given for entrrestaurants and accodation in Fiji. You cathe student healththe University of Paci c (USP) in

Electr

Directory A–Z

PAGE

42

PAGE

223

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Fiji ................ 2Map ................................... 415 Top Experiences ......... 6Need to Know .................. 14If You Like... ...................... 16Month by Month .............. 19Itineraries ......................... 21Which Island? .................. 25Diving ................................ 33Travel with Children ........ 37Regions at a Glance ........ 40

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

Fiji Today .......................... 194History .............................. 196The Environment ............. 205Fijian Culture .................... 209Celebrate Fiji .................... 213Indo-Fijian Culture .......... 217Village Life ........................ 221

Fiji Today Coup-coup LandSince the 2006 military coup, Commodore Frank Bainimarama hstrengthened his powerbase and attempted to legitimise his ositionFiji’s rightful prime minister in a series of complex olitical manoevrings. In 2009 when the Court of Appeal declared Bainimarama’s

AUSTRALIAFIJI USA

population per sq km

≈ 3 people

Fijian CultureIt’s true – loincloths, grass skirts, cannibalism, old beliefs and traditionalsports have given way to sulu and western clothing, Christianity and rug-by. But Fijian culture is alive and well. Traditional core values of respect,communal living, sex-de ned roles and hereditary titles still underpinindigenous Fijian culture, and traditional arts such as woodcarving andweaving are as vibrant as ever. Gardening and shing continue to putfood on Fijian tables (or should that be pandanus mats).

This chapter explores the indigenous Fijian culture and the 57% of the population it represents. The following chapter, Indo-Fijian Culture(p 217 ), looks at the rich tapestry of customs the Indian indentured la-bourers brought to these islands.

Indigenous Fijians In most places you go in Fiji you’ll be met with a cheery ‘bula’ (cheers!hello! welcome!; literally ‘life’) and a toothy grin. Fijians welcome kai-valagi (foreigners; literally ‘people from far away’) warmly, openly andiat times positively enthusiastically. Consequently, Fijians have earnedthemselves a reputation as some of the friendliest people on earth; it’s a reputation that is well deserved.

Face-to-face confrontation is rare and frowned upon in Fiji. Village lifeis subject to complex rules of etiquette and land (vanua) is owned collectively by the community and cherished. Consequently, it is seldom sold.

Unlike other Melanesian societies where chiefs are a ointed on mer

At the moment only a person of indigenous Fijiandecent has the lawful right to

be called ‘Fijian’. Indo-Fijians who

have lived in Fiji f l

Throwing Down the (Beach) Towel Fiji has been in the tourism business for decades, drawing vacationers like pilgrims to a holy land with its promise of white-sand beaches, cloudless skies and the op-portunity to fall into a sun-induced coma under a palm tree.

The perennial favourites are the Mama-nuca and Yasawa islands, which arc north like a stingray’s tail from the body of Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. These are Fiji’s movie stars, dangled in front of the world as idyllic South Sea Edens, their reefs and cobalt-blue waters providing cinematic eye candy for lms such as Tom Hanks’ Cast Away and Brooke Shields’ vehicle to star-

dom The Blue Lagoon. It is therefore little wonder that, despite a coup in 2006, Fiji’s beaches remain ushed with sunburnt tourists.

Wetter is Better Fiji’s underwater scenery is spectacular and some of the nest, and most accessi-ble dives in the Paci c can be found here. Its reputation as the ‘soft coral capital of the world’ is well justi ed and its countless reefs, drop-o s, walls and channels will have even experienced divers and snor-kellers ‘ohhhing’ and ‘ahhing’ into their mouthpieces.

Fiji is also a great sur ng destination and now that its surf breaks are open to

Welcome to Fiji

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

Diving Best for Beginner Divers Fiji is a perfect for new divers, as the warm water in the shallow lagoons is a forgiving training environment. Just about anyone in good health including children aged eight years and over can learn to dive.

» Breath Taker (Nananua-i-Ra, Viti Levu) Great pelagic action on an incoming tide (p 109 ).

» Gotham City (Mamanuca Group) Reef species aplenty (p 114 ).

» Yellow Wall (Kadavu) An atmospheric site resembling a fairy-tale castle (p 183 ).

» Lekima’s Ledge (Yasawa Group) A coral-studded underwater cliff (p 124 ).

Best for Experienced Divers

» Great White Wall (Taveuni) Possibly the best soft-coral dive in Fiji (p 167 ).

Some of Fiji’s most spectacujust below the surface and ditruly amazing. The water is wateeming with life. You’ll see hued sh, canyonlike terraininducing walls festooned withand hard corals resembling garden in full bloom.

Diving Condit Although Fiji is diveable yebest season is from April to Ocber to March tends to see thewhich can obscure visibility olands with river run-o .

Keep in mind that many divto currents, which vary from bble to powerful. Visibility varielow of 10m at certain sites up ters. Water temperatures rangeAugust to 29°C in January. You ything more than a thin neoprwetsuit to remain comfortable

Need to Know

Currency » Fiji dollars ($)

Language » Fijian, English and

Hindustani

High Season (Jun–Sep)

» Peak season coincides with the school holidays in Australia and New Zealand, including the December–January vacation period

Shoulder (May & Oct)

» The shoulder season includes the ‘Fijian winter’ or ‘dry season’, from May to October, which brings low rainfall, low humidity milder

Low Season (Nov–Apr)

» Fiji’s ‘wet season’ is from November to April, with the heaviest rains and highest humidity from December to mid April

When to Go?

#

##

#

#

NadiGO Year-round

SuvaGO May–Oct

KadavuGO May–Oct

SavusavuGO May–Oct Taveuni

GO May–Oct

Tropical climate, rain year-round

Your Daily Budget Budget less than

$175 » Dorm including

meals: $60-120 » Local transport and

markets are good value on the main islands

» A half-day snorkellingexcursion: $20-40

Midrange

$175-350

» Double room in a midrange hotel: $150-300

» Local restaurants: $15-25 for a main

» Allow $50 or more for activities

High end over

$350 » Resorts usually

include all meals and plenty of activities in their tariffs

» Bure range from

VITI LEVU

SOUTHPACIFICOCEAN

#•

#•#•

#•#•

#•

#•#•#•

YASAWAGROUP

BeachcomberIslandTreasure

Island

WayasewaWaya

Naviti

NaculaNanuya Lailai & Blue Lagoon

Matacawalevu

Port Denarau

#f

É

É

#•Labasa

VANUALEVU

#•Cobra Rock

#•Savusavu

#•Waisali Rainforest

Reserve#•

TunuloaPeninsula

TAVEUNI

SomosomoRainbowReef #•

LavenaCoastal

Walk

#•

WaitavalaWater Slide#–

#–

É

É

É

‚

Suva(30km) ‚

The Yasawa ExplorerThe Northern Loop

‚

One to Two WeeksThe Yasawa Explorer

Thanks to a high-speed catamaran, which daily weaves its way from Port Denarau through the Yasawa Group and back again, this chain is

readily explored. Buy yourself a one- or two-week pass for the Yasawa Flyer that then allows you to hop on or o the boat at any island you like.

The boat rst heads through a few of the Mamanucas before reaching the Yasawa chain, so these islands are a good place to

Ten DaysThe Northern Loop

Beginning in Suva, spend a morn-ing at the excellent Fiji Museum and then an afternoon stocking up on souvenirs at the craft market.

After exhausting Suva’s nightlife, hop on a ight to Vanua Levu and land yourself in

Labasa, a sugar town where you can smell the molasses in the air. Visit the Wasavula Ceremonial Site and take a side trip to the mystifying Cobra Rock inside the Naag Mandir Temple.

24

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -697 -1

9 781741 796971

99915

UNDERSTAND FIJI

PAGE

193GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

Lonely Planet in numbers70 languages spoken by our writers

12 seconds pass between posts on our Thorn Tree travel forum

100,000,000 Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting

190+ countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

PHRASEBOOKCOUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

CCOUNCCOUNTTTh

YY & MU& M& M& MULTICLTICi i l

TRYTRYi i

NTTTNTRYRYRYYCCOUNOUN HRAHRASEBOSEBOOKOKPHPH

fiji-9-cover.indd 2fiji-9-cover.indd 2 7/06/2012 11:19:25 AM7/06/2012 11:19:25 AM

Look out for these icons:

Our author’s top recommendation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

A green or sustainable option No payment

required

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

NADI, SUVA & VITI LEVU . . . . . . . . .44NADI & THE WEST . . . . . . . . 46Nadi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46Around Nadi . . . . . . . . . . . . .59North of Nadi . . . . . . . . . . . .62Lautoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Lautoka to Rakiraki . . . . . . .68Nausori Highlands . . . . . . . .69South of Nadi . . . . . . . . . . . .70Robinson Crusoe Island . . . 72Natadola Beach . . . . . . . . . . 72Yanuca & Around . . . . . . . . . 73CORAL COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 74Sigatoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Around Sigatoka . . . . . . . . . . 76Korotogo & Around . . . . . . . 78Korolevu & Around . . . . . . . . 81Pacific Harbour . . . . . . . . . .83Around Pacific Harbour . . . 87Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . . .88SUVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90KINGS ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Nausori & the Rewa Delta . . . . . . . . . . 105Korovou to Rakiraki via Kings Road . . . . . . . . . .106Korovou to Rakiraki via the East Coast . . . . . . . 107Rakiraki & Around . . . . . . .108Nananu-i-Ra . . . . . . . . . . . . 110

THE MAMANUCA & YASAWA GROUPS . . 112MAMANUCA GROUP . . . . . .113South Sea Island . . . . . . . . 116

Bounty Island . . . . . . . . . . . 117Beachcomber Island . . . . . 117Treasure Island . . . . . . . . . . 117Vomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Navini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Mana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Matamanoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Monuriki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Tokoriki. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Castaway Island . . . . . . . . . 120Wadigi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Malolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Malololailai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Namotu Island & Tavarua Island . . . . . . . . . . . 123YASAWA GROUP . . . . . . . . . 123Kuata & Wayasewa . . . . . . . 127Waya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Naviti & Around . . . . . . . . . 129Matacawalevu & Yaqeta . . 131Tavewa, Nanuya Lailai & Nacula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Nanuya Levu (Turtle Island) . . . . . . . . . . . 135Sawa-i-Lau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Yasawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

OVALAU & THE LOMAIVITI GROUP . . 137OVALAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Levuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Lovoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Rukuruku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Arovudi & Silana . . . . . . . . . 146OTHER LOMAIVITI ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

Naigani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Yanuca Lailai . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Moturiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Caqalai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Leleuvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Wakaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Koro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

VANUA LEVU & TAVEUNI. . . . . . . . . . . 150VANUA LEVU . . . . . . . . . . . . .151Savusavu & Around . . . . . . 153North & East of Savusavu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . . 162Labasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Around Labasa . . . . . . . . . . 166Nabouwalu & Around . . . . 166Wainunu Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 167TAVEUNI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Waiyevo, Somosomo & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Southern Taveuni . . . . . . . . 173Matei. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Eastern Taveuni . . . . . . . . . 177Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . . 178

KADAVU, LAU & MOALA GROUPS . . 181KADAVU GROUP . . . . . . . . . 183LAU & MOALA GROUPS . . 188Lau Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190Moala Group . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

Rotuma(460km)To Rotuma

Bligh Water

P A C I F I C O C E A N

S O U T H

Nabouwalu

Rakiraki

Tavua

SUVA

Korovou

Dama

Nausori

NavuaPacific

Harbour

Levuka

VuniseaKavala

Bay

Ba

Sigatoka

Nadi

Lautoka

Narewa

Korolevu

Korotogo

Navala

Landing

BuresalaLanding

NatoviNational

Koroyanitu

ParkHeritage

Tomanivi

(1323m)

(913m)Monavatu

Mt Koroyanitu(Mt Evans)(1195m)

(Mt Victoria)

179º

E

16ºS

17ºS

178º

E

179º

E

18ºS

19ºS

177º

E

178º

E

NadogoYaqaga

Yadua

Nananu-i-CakeNananu-i-Ra

VANUA

Macuata-i-Wai

Makogai

RotumaUeaHatana

Hofliua

YalewaKalouYawini

Yasawa

Naviti

YASAWAGROUP

Tavewa

WayasewaWaya

Narara

Beachcomber

Yaqeta

Nacula

Viwa

Kuata

NaiganiOvalau

Bau

VITI LEVU

Beqa

Dravuni

Buliya

LOMAIVITIGROUP

Wakaya

KADAVUGROUP

Kadavu

Ono

Malolo

Island

Vatulele

MAMANUCAGROUP

Malololailai

Mana

Tokoriki

Yanuca

NamosiHighlands

PlateauNadrau

River

Navua

Kings Rd

RdQueens

Nananu-i-RaSawa-i-Lau Caves

Yasawa GroupNavala Village

Kadavu

Mamanuca Group

Cloudbreak

Beqa Lagoon

World-class windsurfing(p110)

Swim in ancient limestone

Island-hop betweenbeaches (p123)

caves (p136)

Fiji’s last traditional village(p69)

Reef (p186)Dive the beautiful Astrolabe

(p115)

resorts (p113)Sun, sand and beautiful

Fiji’s premier surfing spot

Dive with bull and tigersharks (p84)

› Fiji

Ono-i-Lau

(160km)To Ono-i-Lau

Nanuka

P

assa

ge

it

raSt

momosoSo

K O R O S E A

MateiNatuvu

Labasa

Savusavu SomosomoReserve

RainforestWaisali

Batini

(1111m)(Nasorolevu)

178º

W

16ºS

17ºS

179º

W

180º

18ºS

19ºS

178º

W

179º

W

180º

Munia

Avea

Qelelevu

Vatauua

Druadrua

Cikobia

Nukubalati

Nukubasaga

LalaWailagi

Yavu Yanuca

Cobia

Nukusemanu

LaucalaNanuku LevuNanukulailai

Malima

Naitaba

KanaceaYacata

Vatu Vara

Kaibu

Qamea

Kioa

Mali

Koro

Rabi

Nukutolu

TAVEUNI

BalavuVanua

NamalataSusui

Kia

Namenalala

LEVU

Katafaga

Tuvuca

Oneata

Aiwa

KomoMoce

Lakeba

Yogasa

Ogea Levu

KabaraNuvutu-i-Loma

FulagaLAU

Nuvutu-i-RaNamaku-i-Lau

LAUNORTHERN

Nayau

Cicia

Vanua Vatu

Tavu Na Sici

NairaiBatiki

Gau

Moala

MOALA

Totoya

Matuku

GROUP

Ororua

Vuaqava

SOUTHERN

Mago

PeninsulaTunuloa

ELEVATION

0

300m

600m

900m

Levuka

Waitavala Water Slide

Suva

Namosi Highlands

Slide down a rocky waterfall(p171)

capital (p140)Explore the old colonial

museum (p93)Home to Fiji’s finest

Raft Fiji’s most spectacular river (p87)

50 km30 miles

00

Top Experiences ›

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Dean Starnes Coordinating Author Dean was an impressionable six when he fi rst travelled to Fiji. The week he spent bobbing above the Mamanuca reefs with a leaky mask and a pair of fl oaties ignited a passion that has drawn him back on many occa-sions. Dean was also the coordinating author on the 8th edition of this guide and has worked on Lonely Planet titles for such far-fl ung destinations as Papua New Guinea, Mongolia and East Africa. Dean now lives in Auckland where he

alternates between writing for Lonely Planet, freelancing as a graphic designer and shirking re-sponsibilities. His book, Roam; the Art of Travel, and his website, www.deanstarnes.com, feature photography and stories about his wayfaring ways.

Celeste Brash Ovalau & the Lomaiviti Group; Vanua Levu & Taveuni; Kadavu, Lau & Moala Groups Celeste fi rst visited Fiji in 1987 and seriously considered running away from home so she could stay there. As an adult she moved to sort-of-nearby French Polynesia, where she lived for 15 years before recently moving back to the US. Her award-winning travel articles and stories have appeared in Travelers’ Tales, LA Times and Islands magazine and numerous other publications. She’s written around 30

Lonely Planet guides on destinations around the world but considers the South Pacifi c her speciality.

Virginia Jealous Nadi, Suva & Viti Levu; The Mamanuca & Yasawa Groups Virginia lived, worked and travelled widely in the Pacifi c from 2004 to 2006, and contributed to Lonely Planet’s South Pacifi c guides and the 7th edition of Fiji. Since then she’s been looking for a reason to go back, and was very happy to share a few kava sessions with old friends while shamelessly picking their brains about the current Fiji scene. She was also reassured to fi nd that, despite the vagaries of politics and

economics, Fiji welcomes travellers as warmly as ever.

Contributing Author Clement Paligaru Clement wrote the Indo-Fijian Culture chapter. An Australian of Indo-Fijian de-scent, Clement is a radio and television journalist specialising in Asia-Pacifi c aff airs. He has worked for the Australian Broadcasting Corporation for almost 20 years.

Read more about Dean at:lonelyplanet.com/members/dean_starnes

Read more about Celeste at:lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – September 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 697 1© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.Bestselling guide to Fiji – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, March 2011 to February 2012

itiner-aries

W hether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

VITI LEVU

SigatokaSand Dunes

Natadola Beach

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

Nadi

PortDenarau

Sabeto HotSprings

Garden of theSleeping Giant

BeachcomberIsland Treasure

IslandMana

Malololailai

Tokoriki

Matamanoa

CastawayIsland

Monuriki

MAMANUCAGROUP

É

É

É

É

É

É

Ten DaysTen Days in the Sun

Begin your fl ing in Nadi, by taking a day or two to slow down and reset your internal clock to ‘Fiji time’. Some of the best resorts can be found just outside of Nadi at Port Denarau and these are also handy to Denarau’s golf course, shops and restaurants.

Spend a morning admiring the orchids at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, and an afternoon immersed in the nearby Sabeto Hot Springs. Follow this with a day trip climbing the Sigatoka Sand Dunes or horse riding along Natadola Beach.

By now you should be suitably relaxed and ready for the beautiful Mamanuca Group. It’s probably best to base yourself on one island rather than spend your precious vacation packing and unpacking. Which resort you choose will largely depend on the style of vaca-tion you’re looking for. Beachcomber Island will appeal to party animals while those with families may prefer child-friendly options like Treasure, Mana and Malololailai islands. If you are wanting something more intimate, try romantic Tokoriki, the versatile Mata-manoa or picture-perfect Castaway. Before returning to Nadi, be sure to take a day trip to Monuriki, made famous in the movie Cast Away starring Tom Hanks.

21

BeqaLagoon

Frigate Passage

VITI LEVU

#f

#f

#f

#•

#•

#•

#•

Nadi

SigatokaSand

Dunes

NatadolaBeach

Momi Guns

#•Coral Coast

Scenic Railway #•

Kula EcoPark

#•Korolevu

#•PacificHarbour

#•

NavuaRiver

#•Suva

#•Colo-i-SuvaForest Park

Ovalau#•

Levuka#• NavalaNausori

Highlands

Lautoka

#• Nananu-i-Ra

#•Rakiraki

#•

#•

#•

É

É

É

É

É

É

ÉÉ

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

Two to Three WeeksOnce Around the Block

This itinerary focuses on Fiji’s ‘mainland’, Viti Levu. With roads and regular buses that circumnavigate the island, it’s possible to construct your own tour and save a packet in the process. If you wanted you could travel the whole circuit in a day using public transport, although if you allow yourself plenty of time for excursions and

beachside relaxation, two or three weeks should be ample. Assuming you start in Nadi – although you could begin anywhere – follow the Coral

Coast Hwy to the Momi Guns, and Natadola Beach for some horse riding. Chug into the verdant interior on the Coral Coast Scenic Railway or don your sneakers and trek to the top of the Sigatoka Sand Dunes. Kids will love feeding the wildlife at the Kula Eco Park, while mum and dad might enjoy a few days poolside at a resort in Korolevu.

Make your way towards Pacifi c Harbour to go diving with sharks in Beqa Lagoon or take a boat trip out to surf at the underrated Frigate Passage. Don’t miss the opportunity to raft the canyons of the Navua River before heading to Suva.

Spend a day or two exploring the nation’s capital. Options include taking a crash course on local history at the Fiji Museum or swinging, Tarzan-style, into the refreshing pools at Colo-i-Suva Forest Park.

An interesting side trip is to buy a bus/ferry combo ticket to Ovalau, a small island off the coast of eastern Viti Levu. During colonial times Levuka was the nation’s capital and it still retains a good measure of its Wild West vibe.

Back on the mainland complete your Viti Levu loop via the northern Kings Road, wind-surfi ng at Nananu-i-Ra or scuba diving at Rakiraki. From here, head back to sugar coun-try and visit Lautoka, the second-largest city and a great base to explore the Nausori Highlands. A good option here is to spend a night or two at the traditional village of Navala before heading back to Nadi.

22

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

» ( above) Sonaisali Island Resort, Naisali (p 70 ) » ( left) Natadola beach, Viti Levu (p 72 )

HO

LGE

R LEU

E / LON

ELY P

LAN

ET IM

AG

ES ©

HO

LGE

R LEU

E / LON

ELY P

LAN

ET IM

AG

ES ©

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

23

VITI LEVU

SOUTHPACIFICOCEAN

#•

#•#•

#•#•

#•

#•#•#•

YASAWAGROUP

BeachcomberIsland Treasure

Island

WayasewaWaya

Naviti

NaculaNanuya Lailai & Blue Lagoon

Matacawalevu

Port Denarau

#f

É

É

#•Labasa

VANUALEVU

#•Cobra Rock

#•Savusavu

#•Waisali Rainforest

Reserve#•

TunuloaPeninsula

TAVEUNI

SomosomoRainbow

Reef #•LavenaCoastal

Walk

#•

WaitavalaWater Slide#–

#–

É

ÉÉ

‚

Suva(30km) ‚

The Yasawa ExplorerThe Northern Loop

‚

One to Two WeeksThe Yasawa Explorer

Thanks to a high-speed catamaran, which daily weaves its way from Port Denarau through the Yasawa Group and back again, this chain is

readily explored. Buy yourself a one- or two-week pass for the Yasawa Flyer that then allows you to hop on or off the boat at any island you like.

The boat fi rst heads through a few of the Mamanucas before reaching the Yasawa chain, so these islands are a good place to start. With wide sandy beaches and populat-ed by partygoing backpackers, many young people choose Beachcomber Island as their fi rst port of call, while families indulge in innumerable water sports on Treasure Island.

Spend the next few days on the sliver of sand that connects Wayasewa to Waya before drifting north to Naviti to snorkel with manta rays. Reboard the Flyer for a dash up to Nacula, or Nanuya Lailai, where you can paddle in the Blue Lagoon. From here, leapfrog your way back down the chain, stopping at Matacawalevu for further bouts of snorkelling and sunbathing on the aptly named and horseshoe-shaped Long Beach.

Ten DaysThe Northern Loop

Beginning in Suva, spend a morn-ing at the excellent Fiji Museum and then an afternoon stocking up on souvenirs at the craft market.

After exhausting Suva’s nightlife, hop on a fl ight to Vanua Levu and land yourself in Labasa, a sugar town where you can smell the molasses in the air. Visit the Wasavula Ceremonial Site and take a side trip to the mystifying Cobra Rock inside the Naag Mandir Temple.

Continue your Vanua Levu adventure by jumping on a bus and heading south to Sa-vusavu. Spend a day or two taking in the sights, and the evenings talking with visit-ing skippers over a beer. Take a day trip to the rich and colourful Waisali Rainforest Reserve, or rent a 4WD and brave the roads to the lesser-travelled Tunuloa Peninsula.

Then it’s time to head to gorgeous Taveu-ni. If you’ve got sea legs, catch a ferry; if not, the fl ight provides some spectacular views. Somosomo is a good base from which to ex-plore the surrounding area. Snorkel or dive at the magnifi cent Rainbow Reef, trek the Lavena Coastal Walk and scare yourself silly on the Waitavala Water Slide before heading back to Suva.

24

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd