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    4, 2009

    ZOOT ALORS

    Posted by Don underapparel design| Tags:fashion design,pants,patterndrafting,sewing|

    [13] Comments

    Featured: Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT

    LAURENT

    Explore volume and proportion by challenging conventional principles of tailoring for your Autumn wardrobe. Here is a great example

    byStefano Pilati forYVES SAINT LAURENT,azoottrouser balancing a fitted cropped top. The pattern draft is a bit more advanced

    for those daring to try pleated trousers yet it is an easy project to construct.

    You will need:

    Bottom-weight fashion fabric, 54 [137cm] wide** yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45 [114cm] wide. yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing fabric, 45 [114 cm] wide 1 zipper, 7 [18 cm] long. 1 set of pant hook & bar Kraft paper

    http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2009/08/14/zoot-alors/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2009/08/14/zoot-alors/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/pants/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/pants/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/sewing/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/sewing/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/sewing/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2009/08/14/zoot-alors/#commentshttp://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2009/08/14/zoot-alors/#commentshttp://www.ysl.com/http://www.ysl.com/http://www.ysl.com/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suithttp://www.ysl.com/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2009/08/14/zoot-alors/#commentshttp://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/sewing/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/pants/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2009/08/14/zoot-alors/
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    **A minimum of 3 yards of fabric is required for pleated trousersfor an average sized person. If youre taller than 6 youll need 3 1/2

    yards of fabric.

    MEASUREMENTS

    Waistmeasure around narrowest part of torso just above the navel.

    Hipmeasure around fullest part of seat, about 9 [23cm] belowwaistline.

    Body Risemeasure vertically from waistline to top of chair seat, while seated.

    Outseammeasure vertically from waist to heels.

    Trouser Bottom Widthmeasure length of foot.

    PATTERN

    Easy Fit template for baggy trousers.

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    Front (Red)

    Draw a long straight line down center of the paper and plot point 0at the top end.

    Square both ways from 0.

    0-1= body rise waistband width + [10mm]; square across.

    0-2= 9 [23cm] waistband width; square across.

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    0-3= outseam waistband width; square across. (creaseline)

    1-4= half the measurement of 1-3minus 2 [50mm]; square across.

    1-5= 1/12 of hip + [20mm]; square up to locate6and 7at intersections.

    6-8= of hip + 1 [25mm].

    5-9= 1/16 of hip + [10mm].

    7-10= [10mm].

    Join 10-6with a straight line and 6-9with a smooth curve, missing 5by approx. 1 [35mm].

    10-11= of waist + 2 [50mm].

    3-12= of trouser bottom width [6mm]; join8-12with a straight line. Mark point 13on kneeline.

    Draw in side seam; join 8-11with a slight curve.

    3-14= of trouser bottom width [6mm].

    4-15= the distance of 4-13.

    Draw inside leg seam; join 14-15with a straight line; join 9-15with a slight curve inwards [10mm] as shown.

    Back (Blue)

    5-16= of measurement1-5; square up to locate 17on hipline and 18on the waistline.

    16-19 = half the distance 16-18.

    18-20= [20mm].

    20-21= [20mm].

    21-22= of waist + 2 [60mm]; join21-22 to touch the horizontal line from 0.

    9-23= half the distance 5-9.

    23-24= [3mm].

    Join 21-19with a straight line; join 19-24with a deep curve missing 16by approx. 1 [45mm].

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    17-25= of hip + [20mm].

    12-26= [10mm].

    13-27= [10mm].

    Draw in side seam; 22-25curves outward slightly; 25-27curve inwards slightly and join 27-26with a straight line.

    14-28= [10mm].

    15-29= [10mm].

    Draw inside leg seam; join 28-29with a straight line; join 29-24with a curve inwards by [10mm].

    Design Note:PUT EXTRA EASE IN THE SEAT ANGLE (CB seam)

    Most easy fitting trousers require extra ease in the back crotch line, especially pleated pants. Trace off back section of trouser template and

    add more ease. Begin by, cutting along the hipline and spread open a wedge as desired, approximately 1 [40mm] wide at the back CB

    line. (The more rounded the behind, the greater the seat angle.) Re-draw the back seam curve as shown.

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    Style Adaptation

    Pleated zoot trousers are full at the waistline and shaped in at the hem.

    Trace round basic easy-fit trouser templateonto additional paper.

    Back Section *

    Add additional ease in CBseam if necessary (see above).

    Mark points (a)and (b)on hemline [20 mm] inward from leg seam.

    Draw straight line from (a)to kneeline.

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    Draw in a bowed outseam (curve) from hipline tapering to (b).

    Shape the bottom hemline with a slight curve outward [10mm].***

    Divide line 21-22into 3 equal parts. At each point, draw in a waist suppression dart. (2 in total).

    Dart= 1 wide x 4 long [30mm x 100mm].

    Front Section *

    Trace round front trouser template onto additional paper.

    Cut across kneeline; then cut top section dividing along the crease (grainline). Spread open at waistline for desired amount of pleating and

    extend waistline at side seam to blend smoothly with outseam of leg. (For instance, open 2 [50mm] at waistand extend 1 [35mm] at

    side seam. With dart allowance this gives 4 [10.5 cm] fullness).

    Divide fullness into 3 equal pleats.

    Design Note:More fullness can be added at the waistline by opening the grainline further at the waist and making deeper pleats.

    Mark points (c)and(d)on hemline [20 mm] inward from leg seam.

    Draw straight line from (d)to kneeline.

    Draw in a bowed outseam (curve) from hipline tapering to (c).

    Shape the bottom hemline with a straight line.***

    Grainline is parallel to creaseline.

    For fly & fly facing *, trace off CFseam and waistline from 10.

    Draw a parallel line 2 [50mm] fromCFline and taper 1 [25cm] below zipper notch.

    Grainline is parallel to CF line.

    For waistband *, draw a long rectangle equal to the waist measurementXdesired width.

    Add a 2 [50mm] extension to one short end of pattern.

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    Mirror the final dimensions of the waistband along the foldline.

    Grainline is parallel to foldline.

    For sideseam pockets, make a pocket bag pattern *.

    A-B= 9 [23 cm]; square across fromAand B.

    A-C= 6 [15 cm]; square down to locateD.

    A-E= 6 [15 cm]; square across.

    B-F= 1 [2.5 cm]; square up toG.

    Draw in an arc with a compass from Hto Ias shown.

    Fold paper on line C-Dand trace off C-A-E-G-H-I-Das mirrored image. Open flat for bag pattern piece.

    Grainline is parallel to foldline.

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    *Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

    ***Add 1 [30mm] hem allowances to trouser bottoms.

    CUTTING

    Front Legcut 2Xself

    Back Legcut 2Xself

    Waistbandcut 1Xself

    Waistband Interfacingcut 1Xfusible

    Flycut 3Xself

    Pocket Bagcut 2Xpocketing

    ASSEMBLY

    1.Fold pocket bag piece in half crossways and stitch aFrench seamalong curved edge of bag. Set aside.

    http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/frenchseam.htmhttp://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/frenchseam.htmhttp://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/frenchseam.htmhttp://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/frenchseam.htm
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    2.Iron fusible interfacing to back (wrong side) of waistband, following manufacturers directions. Set aside.

    3.Foldpleatsalong waistline of front trousers andbastedown. Set aside.

    4.Sew waist darts on back trouser. Set aside.

    5.Finish seams on all cut pieces withpinking shearsoroverlock machine.

    6.With right sides together (RST), align and match side seam of front and back trouser legs. Leaving a 6 opening from top edge of cut

    pieces for pockets, sew up the side seam and press open.

    Attach a pocket bag to each seam allowance at the opening and stitch in place. Set aside.

    http://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/pqr.htmhttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/pqr.htmhttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/pqr.htmhttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/index.htmhttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/index.htmhttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/index.htmhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinking_shearshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinking_shearshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinking_shearshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlockhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlockhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlockhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlockhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinking_shearshttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/index.htmhttp://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/dictionary/pqr.htm
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    7. With RST, sew curved edge of fly facing. Gradeseam allowance and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press seam

    andtopstitch.With the fly facing FACE UP and the curved edge to your left, stitch the zipper FACE UP to the straight edge of the fly

    facing (fig.1). Set aside.

    8.With RST, sew fly to right front leg. Gradeseam allowance and press seam to one side. Under-stitchfly.

    9.With RST, align and match front pieces along CFline and crotch. Stitch from bottom of fly to within 2 of the inseam.

    10.With the fronts FACE UP, sew the fly facing FACE DOWN to the left front leg. This will encase the zipper into the CFseam. Flip the

    zipper FACE UP andedge-stitchalong the zipper teeth (fig. 2).

    11.Lay the front of the trousers FACE UP. Align the CFline and smooth out the fly opening. Bastethe fly opening shut. Once completed,

    fold the fronts in half with the left front leg on top. Pin back the fly facing to reveal the zipper FACE DOWN on the fly. St itch the zipper tape

    to the fly. (fig. 3)Bastecurved edge of fly to left front.

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    12.With garment FACE UP, sew a J-stitch to secure the fly. Begin with a bar-tack at the bottom of the fly opening andtopstitchthe J-

    stitch following the basting thread markings up to the top.

    13.With RST, align and match back and front at the inseam. Baste/pin raw edges together along the inseam of each leg. Sew inseams and

    press seam open.

    14. Pull one leg RIGHT SIDE OUT and drop down into other leg. Align and match up inner leg

    seam and CBcrotch seam. Baste/pin crotch seam. Sew seam from bottom of fly to top edge of back section (in a U-shape). Turn garment

    RIGHT SIDE OUT and set aside.

    15.Turn under seam allowance on one long edge of waistband and press flat. Fold waistband in half, with RST and stitch up short ends,

    allowing for seam allowance. Trim corners andgrade.Turn waistband RIGHT SIDE OUT.

    16.Pin raw edge of waistband FACE UP to inside edge of trousers waistline, allowing for 2 [50mm] extension on left-hand side of

    waistband. Ease in waistline onto waistband.Basteacross top of pocket bag and pleats. Stitch waistband to waistline, ensuring to catch top

    of front pocket and pleats in the seaming.Gradeseam allowance and turn up into waistband. Align and match folded edge of waistband to

    machine-stitching on FACE SIDE of garment. Edge-stitchthe waistband to the garment.

    17.On each cuff bottom, turn up 1 [30mm] hem. Turn under [6mm] and hand-stitch hem in place.

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    18.Hand-stitch set of hooks and bars onto the waistband, just above the zipper.

    Design Tip:Design the waistband width [12 mm] greater than the width of your favourite belt and add belt loops.

    October 7, 2008

    CLASSIC JEANS

    Posted by Don underapparel design| Tags:fashion,pants,patterndrafting|

    [33] Comments

    Classic five pocket cool, with an always-in-

    style timeless wash denim and the most comfortable fit ever. Its no wonder you reach for your made-to-measure jeans again and again.

    MEASUREMENTS

    Waist measure narrowest part of torso at navel level.

    Seat measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8[20 cm] below the waist.

    Body Rise - measure drop from waistline to crotch level.

    Outseammeasure distance from waistline to floor.

    Bottom widthdesired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).

    PATTERN

    http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2008/10/07/classic-jeans/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2008/10/07/classic-jeans/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/pants/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/pants/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2008/10/07/classic-jeans/#commentshttp://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2008/10/07/classic-jeans/#commentshttp://wkdesigner.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/jeans.jpghttp://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2008/10/07/classic-jeans/#commentshttp://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/patterndrafting/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/pants/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/tag/fashion/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/category/apparel-design/http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/2008/10/07/classic-jeans/
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    Jean Template: Front

    Square both ways from0.

    0-1= body rise minus width of waistband: square across.

    0-2= waist to seat minus waistband width; square across.

    0-3= outseam measurement; square across.

    1-4= half the distance of 1-3 minus 2[5cm]; square across.

    1-5= 1/12 of seat measurement + 3/8[1cm]; square up to 6 and 7.

    http://wkdesigner.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/jean1.jpg
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    6-8= of seat measurement.

    5-9= 1/16 of seat measurement.

    7-10= 5/8[1.5cm].

    Join 10-6 and 6-9with a curve touching a point 1 - 1 [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.

    10-11= waist + [1.25cm]

    3-12= of bottom width minus 1/8[0.5cm].

    4-13= the measurement 3-12 + [2cm].

    Draw side seam 11,8,13,12; curve 8-11out 1/8[0.5 cm].

    3-14= bottom width minus 1/8[0.5cm].

    4-14= the measurement 3-14+ [2cm].

    Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14.Curve in 9-15by 1/8[0.5cm]

    Jean Template: Back

    5-16= of distance 1-5; square up to 17 on hipline, 18 on the waistline.

    16-19= of distance 16-18.

    18-20 = [2cm].

    20-21= [2cm].

    21-22= of waist + 1[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.

    9-23= of distance 5-9 minus 1/8[0.5cm].

    23-24= 1/8[0.5cm].

    Join 21-19and 19-24with a curve touching a point 1 - 1 [4-4.5cm] from 16.

    17-25= seat + 1/8[0.5cm].

    12-26= 3/8[1cm]

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    13-27= 3/8[1cm]

    Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.

    14-28= 3/8[1cm]

    15-29= 3/8[1cm]

    Draw inside leg seam 24,29,28; curve 24-29in 3/8[1cm].

    21-30= of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2[1.25cm] wide.

    To Complete Jean Front

    Trace off front section from template draft. Mark point6.

    Draw in curved pocket line 31-32 and pocket bag.

    Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8[3.5cm] from31-32.

    Draw in fly piece shape to point 333/8[1cm] below6.

    Fly piece width = 1 1 [3.7-4.5cm] wide.

    Trace off fly piece.

    Trace off pocket bag along line 31-32.

    To Complete Jean Back

    http://wkdesigner.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/jean22.jpg
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    Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24and 25.

    Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 [4cm] wide at17.

    (Note: for rounder behinds increase more if desired).

    17-34= 1/8[0.5cm]; draw in new crotch seamfrom21-24.

    Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).

    21-35= of distance 21-16.

    22-36= of distance 22-25.

    Cut off yoke along line 35-36; close dart.

    Curve the line 21-22 and 35-36.

    Patch Pockettrace off back pocket.

    Waistband

    The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 [3 cm] larger thanwaist measurement to fit lower waist position).

    37-38= 2 x waistband width; square across.

    38-39= waist measurement + 1 [3cm]; square up.

    39-40= fly width; square up.

    39-41= of distance 38-39; square up, label CBand CF. Mark foldline down center.

    August 9, 2008

    THE PAJAMA PANT

    Posted by Don underapparel design| Tags:pants,patternless design,sewing|

    [7] Comments

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    These long and loose bottoms score high on the comfort index. The fabrics are

    fluid and the prints are fun, which means they are less for curling up on the sofa than for spending a weekend afternoon in style. Think silk,

    linen, rayon, or cottonsomething lightweight and drapy. Balance them with a body-fitting top or stay faithful to the bedtime look with a big

    and beautiful sweater.

    Featured:Blue-green silk pajama pants fromDries Van Noten

    The cut and fabrication of these loungers is novice level and fits many shapes and sizes. Its an easy no-pattern afternoon project.

    You need:

    1 yds. of fashion fabric, 44-45 wide Coordinating thread 1 pkg. of 1 wide waistband elastic or 60 drawcord Tailors chalk Tape measure

    PATTERN

    No real pattern is required but if you wish to make several pants you can make a paper template.

    Recommended to control the fullness at the gathered waist is elastic or a drawsting. The waist can accommodate 30 to 52 approximately.

    http://www.driesvannoten.be/movie.htmlhttp://www.driesvannoten.be/movie.htmlhttp://www.driesvannoten.be/movie.htmlhttp://wkdesigner.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/pj-pants.jpghttp://www.driesvannoten.be/movie.html
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    For the cut, measure your finished pant length. (waist to heel). Add 1 for cuff hem allowance and 1 for waist casing to this

    measurement. Record it.

    Straighten the cut edges of your fashion fabric and square across the width.

    Measure along theselvedgethe pant length measurement and square a line across the width with tailors chalk

    Divide the section equally in half parallel to theselvedgewith a chalk line. These are the left and right leg sections.

    On each leg section, measure in approx. 2-4 from the lines. This may vary based on how fitted a bottom cuff you want (must be able toget

    your foot through however). Then, measure along the length and find the midpoint. Chalk a notch. (Xand Oon diagram). Join Xs and Osto

    bottom points at hem with a straight edge using chalk.

    Take this midpoint measurement and plot it along the waistline. Add 13 for the rise. Square up on remaining fabric parallel

    toselvedgeand mark with chalk. This is the gusset section.

    Divide the gusset section in half by squaring across the fabric width.

    Measure across top and bottom the distance equal to half the leg distance from waistline toX. Plot it and mark with chalk. Repeat but

    measure the dividing line from the opposite end. Join the notches with a straight edge. (see diagram).

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    Cut on the chalk lines. You will have a left leg side, a right leg side, and 2 pairs of gussets.

    ASSEMBLY

    Finish raw edges with desired seam finish. (I used pinking shears).

    With right sides together, pin andbastea gusset to each center portion of the legs. (Match Xs and Os). Stitch seam and press open.

    With right sides together, fold each leg section in half lengthwise and pin andpasteinseam from crotch to hem. Stitch inseam and press

    seam open.

    Turn one leg section right side out and place it down the other leg section. Match upCFand CBat waist and align inseams. Pin

    andbastegussets together and stitch crotch seam. Press open. Turn pants right side out.

    Turn under 1/2 at waistline andpress. Turn under 1 all round and machine stitch down to create a casing. Open a slit in the front crotch

    seam at the waist to insert an elastic or drawcord. (make elastic equal to your waist measurement less 2if using).

    Hem bottoms of legs using a 1 hem allowance.

    September 15, 2007

    PATTERN

    DRAFTING

    BY HEIGHT

    Posted by Don

    underapparel design|

    Tags:creativity,fashion

    design,pants,patterndraft

    ing|

    [8] Comments

    This pattern design method

    can be used to determine

    drafting measurements

    from a given figure height

    combined with girth

    measurements for the

    chest, waist and hips.

    Knowing the persons

    height allows for

    formulations of various

    lengths based on

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    theGolden Meanand combined with established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern can be drafted for an average human

    body.

    H= full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretched arms, measured from finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body.

    1/2 H= upper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)

    1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel

    1/6 H= length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)

    1/8 H= length of head from crown to bottom of chin

    1/10 H= height of face; also length of hand

    Drafting By Height: Trousers(based on 8 heads per figure)

    The theory based upon theGolden Meancan be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height of an average or

    off-proportioned body. You need the following measurements to draft a trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The scale isone head

    equals 1/8 of the totalheight.

    Example:

    for a person who is 5 feet 8 inches tall, one head length is 8

    5 8 = 68 68/8 = 8.5

    Rise is 1 head plus 1 ease plus width of the waistband

    eg. rise = 1/8 height + ease + waistband width

    Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)

    eg. inseam = 1/2 height Y

    Outseamis inseam plus rise, or

    5 heads plus ease minus Y plus waistband width

    eg. outseam = 5/8 height + ease Y + waistband width

    Example:

    http://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htmhttp://goldennumber.net/body.htm
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    Given a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18 and a waistband 1-1/2 wide, then:

    rise = 68/8 + 1 + 1.5 = 11

    inseam = 68/8 2.5 = 31.5

    outseam = 5/8 x 68 + 1 2.5 + 1.5 = 42.5

    Table for Leg Reduction(Y amount)

    for bottom width take off Y amount *24 123 1.2522 1.521 1.7520 219 2.2518 2.5*for shaped trouser cuffs, use less Y amount (0.5 to 0.75)

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    Trouser draft:

    square both ways at 0.

    0-1 = body rise + 3/8 [1cm]; square across

    0-2= waist to hip; square across. (approx. 8-9 [20-23 cm]).

    0-3= outseam; square across

    1-4= midway between 1-3 minus 2 [5 cm]; square across.

    1-5= 1/12 hip mmt. + 5/8 [18 mm]; square up to locate points 6 and 7.

    6-8= hip mmt. + 3/8 [10 mm]

    5-9= 1/16 hip mmt. + 3/8 [10mm]

    7-10= 3/8 [10mm] squared across and 3/8 [10 mm] squared down

    Join 10-6 with straight line and join 6-9 with a curve line as shown.

    This is the centerfront crutch seam.

    Square up and down from point 8.

    10-11= waist mmt. + 3/8 [10mm] (note: point 11 will sit on line 7.)

    12is located at intersection of 3 and 8.

    13is located at intersection of 4 and 8.

    Square down from 5 to locate 14 and 15

    5-16 = 1/2 mmt of line 5-9

    6-17= mmt of line 5-9

    7-18= 3/8 [10mm]; join 17-18 and extend as a tangent line

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    19-20= waist mmt. + 3/8 [10 mm], taken at a 90 degree angle from tangent line so that line 19-20 touches the line 7-11. (Note: point 19

    will be located on the right angle and the constructed line may not touch at point 11 as shown.)

    9-21= mmt. of 5-9

    Join 17-21 with curved line as shown

    3-22= 1/4 trouser cuff width minus 1/4 [6 mm]

    23 is located on kneeline.

    3-24 = trouser cuff width minus 1/4 [6 mm]

    4-25= 4-23

    Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25-9 with a curved line as shown.

    24-26= 3/4 [20 mm]

    25-27= 3/4 [20mm]

    Join 26-27 with a straight line and 27-21 with a parallel curved line as shown.

    5-28= hip mmt. + 1/4 [6 mm]

    Join 22-23-28-8 and gently curve into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.

    This is an easy fit type trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If you desire extra ease (seat angle) in crutch of trousers back

    portion, cut along back hipline and open a wedge about 1-1/2 [40 mm] wide at CB to nil at side seam. Redraw centerback seam.