pastry & baking volume 2 issue 5 2008

Volume 2 Issue 5 2008

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W W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O M

Punk Pastry – Michelle GarciaTransmogrified Mangoes

Punk Pastry – Michelle GarciaTransmogrified Mangoes

W W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O MThe GeorgianExecutive Pastry Chef Artis KalsonsThe GeorgianExecutive Pastry Chef Artis Kalsons

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2 Pastry & Baking North America

Letter From The Editor

Regards,

Joseph Marcionette

Editor-in-ChiefEmail: [email protected]

Before I get ahead of myself, I want to thank all those

who contributed to the success of this magazine in

2008. There were a lot of late nights, coffee fueled

design sessions and plenty of Papa John’s pizza. But

in the end, Pastry & Baking North America put itself

on the map with unparalleled coverage of the region’s

dessert professionals along with a style and beauty

deserving of our hard working readers. Thank you all

very much!

Now, some exciting news: commencing in January

2009, all our back issues of both Pastry & Baking

North America and Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific will

be posted in digital magazine format on our website

– www.pastryna.com. Additionally, visitors will be

able to use key words and search this library of digital

editions for recipes. How cool is that!

This leading edge technological offering comes

courtesy of the very special people at Amoretti.

Jack and Maral Barsoumian continue to demonstrate

ground breaking commitment to promoting the arts

of pastry, baking and dessert creation and we are very

excited to have Amoretti on board as sponsor of our

new Digital Editions department.

As we turn the corner into 2009, don’t forget this

magazine is about you. Let us know what you think?

What you like or dislike and how we can make this

publication the best it can be. Thank you!

Big Things Ahead!

Read and Search Our Back Issueswww.pastryna.com

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Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

24Ben’s LabBen Roche is the pastry chef atMoto Restaurant in Chicago.Fascinated with science afterdiscovering Alka Seltzer “bombs”as a kid, Ben’s approach to pastryis unconventional.

32Chef in FocusChicago based punk pastryprovocateur Michelle Garciaserves up sweets with a pinch oftatitude at the Bleeding Heartorganic bakery and her newlylaunched Chaos Theory Cakesand Confections.

66Creative CakesElisa Strauss from Confetti Cakesjoins the publication and putsforth the techniques and toolsrequired to create stunning, oneof a kind cakes.

6Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,

events and product updates for

the well informed professional.

14Regional ShowcaseJoin P&B NA on a tour of North

America and beyond as we

visit with and showcase talented

professionals who share their

favorite recipes.

44Grand GateauxAs one of Australia’s most celebrated

pastry chefs, Kirsten Tibballs

presents Grand Gateaux and her

original take on great cakes.

62Wild SweetsThe Dubys dazzle with their leading

edge approach to innovative

creations.

House Specials

Published by

Synergy1 Group, Inc.

www.PastryNA.com

PUBLISHERSynergy1 Board of Directors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette

CREATIVE DIRECTORLisa Dinges

SENIOR EDITORCampbell Ross Walker

ASIA PACIFIC EDITORRachel Lee

NETWORK MANAGERMichael Ethier

SENIOR WRITERSDavid Martell, Laura Geatty

CORPORATE OFFICES:

North America

PO Box 1662

Ponte Vedra

Florida 32004

Email: [email protected]

Asia Pacific

32 Maxwell Road #03-07

White House Building

Singapore 069115

Fax: (65) 6323 1839

Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 5.All rights reserved. © under Universal International

and Pan American Copyright conventions. Thispublication is a creative work fully protected by all

applicable copyright laws, as well as bymisappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition

and other applicable laws.

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Off The Wire

News, events andhappenings fromaround the region

Dessert FourPlayCreated by Johnny Iuzzini, superstar pastry chef of the celebrated

four-star restaurant Jean Georges in New York, is a sophisticated

explosion of a familiar flavor that begins with the taste of

strawberry rich on your tongue and ends with an effervescent

tingle in your nose.

Far from the conventional slice of cake at the end of a meal,

Johnny’s seasonal creations – four mini desserts in a quartet

of complementary flavors and textures – are a culinary

adventure. In Dessert FourPlay, he shares his secrets and

inspirations, delivering standout recipes for incredible desserts

that can be served alone or combined into his signature fourplay

groupings, creating the perfect sweet finale for any meal.

Throughout the book, Johnny offers tips on simplifying

professional recipes and provides basic recipes for transcendent

cakes, cookies, tuiles, ice creams, sorbets, granités, and more.

These building blocks can be used to create magnificent

multifaceted desserts, or they can be perfect desserts by

themselves. Some recipes have surprising versatility: the shiny

smooth chocolate glaze Johnny uses to ice cakes doubles as the

ultimate hot fudge sauce; a lemony madeleine batter becomes

a layer in a cake.

Iuzzini pairs cool with hot, crispy with creamy, sweet with

spicy, and the expected – chocolate, strawberries, and cinnamon

– with the unexpected – chiles, beets, and chocolatey puffs.

The result: desserts that refresh, inspire, and satisfy beyond

expectations. Dessert FourPlay invigorates all the senses and

inspires home cooks to create innovative desserts of their own.

7

New Dog Bone Shape FlexipanFrom DemarleDemarle USA recently introduced their new Dog Bone shape Flexipanmould. This new shape is perfectly designed to work well for makingbeautiful bite size baked, frozen, or chocolate treats hungry canines orhumans. This shape is sure to be a big hit with “dog friendly” bake shops,coffee shops, and patisseries who would like to bake healthy and safetreats for our best friends – both 2 and 4 legged.

These Flexipans come in two popular tray sizes; a 48 mouldarrangement for use in a Full Size 18 x 26 tray. And a 24 mouldarrangement for use in a Half Size 13 x 18 tray. Flexipan moulds aremade using the highest quality silicone materials integrated onto fiberglassmesh material. These non-stick moulds are incredibly durable, neverneed greasing, and are NSF, FDA, and Kosher certified. Flexipan is theideal choice for innovative bakery, pastry, chocolate, and frozen desertcreations. Flexipan products can be used at temperatures varying from-40ºF to 480ºF.Phone: 888 – FLEX-PAN

Champions Join TheFrench Pastry SchoolGearing up to the meet the demand for enrollmentand maintain the level of excellent know throughoutthe industry, The French Pastry School recentlyannounced the addition of two world championinstructors: En-Ming Hsu and Dimitri Fayard.

En-Ming Hsu joins the school as Chef Instructorand returns to Chicago where she served as ExecutivePastry Chef at the Ritz-Carlton. Hsu led the UnitedStates team to victory as their Team Captain at theWorld Pastry Cup in Lyon, France in 2001. That year,Hsu’s team won by the largest margin ever achieved.Hsu will begin teaching at The French Pastry Schoolin January 2009, focusing on plated dessertsinstruction.

“Bringing a World Champion to the team willgreatly enhance the students’ learning, exposing themto another expert’s vision, passion and experience,”said Sebastien Canonne, M.O.F., co-owner and co-founder of The French Pastry School, “her studentswill benefit from her keen sense of art, design andcreativity.”

Dimitri Fayard also joins as a Chef Instructorafter recently winning the 2008 Amoretti WorldPastry Team Championship. In 2007, Dimitri wasnamed one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in Americaand student at The French Pastry School can lookforward to yet another expert in flavor profiles, Frenchcakes and tarts.

“Dimitri shows great devotion to the art ofpastry,” said Jacquy Pfeiffer, co-owner and co-founderof The French Pastry School. “He’ll be an inspirationto his students as someone who continually challengeshimself.”

The French Pastry School, founded by ChefsJacquy Pfeiffer and Sebastien Canonne, M.O.F., offersthe best possible pastry instruction taught by masterpastry chefs who have attained the highestachievements in their craft. Their programs are idealfor anyone interested in pastry from the careerchanger to the professional to the novice. For moreinformation on The French Pastry School please visitwww.frenchpastryschool.com.

ChocoGunDesign & Realisation in Canada has created the ChocoGun. Designed tocontrol cocoa butter’s temperature at all times, this piece of equipmentbalances the tricky relationship between cocoa butter and air pressure toachieve original decoration effects such as velvet, snow, granulated, orangeskin, dots, lines, etc. The spray gun is made entirely made of stainless steelwith an extendable hose complete with quick connect attachments andruns on 110 Volts / 250 Watts. For more information, visit www.dr.ca.


Off The Wire

Felchlin CelebrationIn celebration of their 100 years of business,

Felchlin is offering two distinct Centenario

Jubilee chocolates.

Centenario Crudo (70%)Centuries ago, chocolate was celebrated in South

America in a rustic form. Fire roasted beans were

ground on a grindstone and processed in a very

simple manner resulting in a chocolate with a

coarse structure, having the cocoa and cane sugar

still noticeable. Today, Felchlin is celebrating this

tradition with Centenario Crudo whose taste

profile is intense and untamed – highlighting

secrets that have slumbered in oblivion for

centuries. Available in 2 kg blocks.

Centenario Concha (70% 48h)Conching was invented in Switzerland 130 years ago with the

purpose of promoting frictional heat and release of volatiles.

With the Centenario Concha, Felchlin applies a 48 hour conch

to this extraordinary chocolate resulting in developing the

hidden aromas and a robust cocoa taste with notes of black

tea, dried plums, mildly sweet bananas and refreshing orange.

Available in 1.5g coins in 2 kg bags.

For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss

American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676.

DC DUBY Wild Sweets®

Launches 2008 LimitedRelease Collection‘Créme Brülée’

Every year, after months of research and development,

DC DUBY Wild Sweets® launches a new Limited Release

chocolate collection. The 2008 collection is titled Créme

Brülée and its theme and inspiration is based on the

Duby’s latest cookbook release of the same title. The

Créme Brülée collection features 12 extravagant and

uniquely customized variations of dessert recipes featured

in the book. The design process began by selecting flavour

profiles from the book recipes that were suitable to

become delightful Créme Brülée chocolate confections.

The second step was to provide the ‘burnt’ sugar flavour

profile within each chocolates.

Of course, such exquisite edible jewels deserve equally

luxurious packaging. The 2008 Collection is offered in

our new exclusive gift ‘Valise’ packaging concept that

presents the chocolates in a 2-piece box that includes 12

assorted hand-painted chocolates domes placed over 12

chocolate Créme Brülée squares, a printed Vellum menu

as well as an autographed copy of the Créme Brülée

book, all held together within†a black textured paper

purse-shape ‘Valise’ complete with black cloth rope

handles, satin ribbon and a DC DUBY silver metallic

foiled crest. The complete Limited Release Créme Brülée

collection ‘Valise’ retails for $59.95 (shipping and

applicable tax not included) and will be available only

through DC DUBY Wild Sweets Virtual Boutique starting

on November 17, 2008. For more information or to

purchase, please visit the Virtual Boutique located at

www.dcduby.com


Off The Wire

employees in 1990 to the premier baking resource with nearly200 employees today; from a family-owned operation for fivegenerations to a 100 percent employee-owned business. Afounding B Corporation, King Arthur Flour received theOutstanding Vermont Business Award in 2006, the Best Placeto Work in Vermont Award in 2006 and 2007, and the BetterBusiness Bureau Local Torch Award for Excellence in 2006. KingArthur Flour offers more than 1,000 professional-grade bakingtools and ingredients through its catalogue, online atkingarthurflour.com, and at The Baker’s Store in Norwich, Vt.Through its products, publications and national educationalprograms, King Arthur Flour continues to strive toward itsmission: To be a creative and profitable company that’s a product,information, and education resource for, and inspiration to,bakers worldwide.

King Arthur Flour NamedOne of Wall Street Journal’sTop Small Workplacesfor 2008Employee-Owned Company Selected as One ofTop 15 in North America by the Wall StreetJournal and Winning Workplaces

King Arthur Flour of Norwich, Vt., was named today as one ofthe 15 Top Small Workplaces in North America by the WallStreet Journal and Winning Workplaces. More than 400 private,nonprofit, and publicly held organizations applied for this year’shonor.

“We are delighted to be recognized as one of North America’sTop Small Workplaces. At King Arthur Flour, we work hard tohonor the employee-owners who make this company successful– to acknowledge and respond to their needs, desires andinterests as whole people. We strive to make King Arthur a placewhere people feel passionate about their work. Their enthusiasminspires our great customer service, educational programs, andcommunity and environmental stewardship,” says companyspokesperson Allison Furbish. “Our philosophy has worked forus for over 200 years, and we hope our company can serve asa model for other organizations.”

The Top Small Workplaces list, compiled in partnershipwith Winning Workplaces, a nonprofit whose mission is to helpsmall and midsize organizations create better workplaces,showcases exceptional employers that have built workplaceenvironments that foster teamwork, flexibility, and professionalgrowth while providing an atmosphere and benefits thatencourage employee loyalty. A national panel of small businessexperts chosen by the Journal and Winning Workplaces judgedthe finalists based on specific metrics and qualitative assessmentsof their success in creating workplaces that nurture, challengeand reward employees.

“These small businesses are leading innovators and rolemodels for larger companies,” said Larry Rout, editor of theJournal Reports, The Wall Street Journal. “At a time when mostemployers are cutting back on employee benefits it is importantto recognize those organizations that are creating environmentsthat encourage productive behavior and expanding programsto keep employees happy.”

“The Top Small Workplaces have been in business an averageof 42 years and have demonstrated that they can survive difficulteconomic times,” said Ken Lehman, Winning Workplaces’founder and board chair. “By building strong cultures andgaining employee commitment to the success of the business,these organizations have thrived in good times and weatheredbad ones. It is at times like these, with our nation facing almostunprecedented financial and economic challenges, that the realmettle of a strong workplace is demonstrated.”

America’s oldest flour company, King Arthur Flour hasgrown from a regional staple to a brand known nationwide notonly for its high-quality flours but for its passion in sharing thejoy of baking; from a small mail-order business with five

Florida Pastry ChallengeThe 2008 Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show was recently heldat the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, FL. TheShow is produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, andsponsored by the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Association.One of the highlights of the show was the Florida Pastry Challengepresented by The Culinary Source.

Open to ACF and Non-ACF Chefs, the competition consistedof three categories: Sugar, Chocolate and Students. Eachcontestant was responsible for incorporating the theme of“Florida Nature and Wildlife into their creations and in the end,Emmanuel Boscherel from Marco Island’s Sale e Pepe restauranttook first place in Sugar with Mary Ellen Salanore from NormanLove Confections in Fort Myers capturing the Chocolate category.ean Pera from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park,NY who won 1 place in the Student Competition.

GlobalBakerB a k i n g i s D e a nBrettschneider’s passion.Trained in New Zealand,he is currently based inShanghai. In this, hisfourth book, he shares hisrecipes for bread, pastries,cakes and desserts thatr e f l e c t h i s b r o a dinternational experience.There are also extensiveinstructions on techniquesand ingredients anddecoration tips.

Off The Wire

Pastry & BakingRecruitment SiteFounded by World Pastry Cup winner ChristopheMichalak, Michalak Connect is a recruiting site dedicatedto pastry and baking trades. Candidates can sign-upand post their CV, free of charge. They can receive JobAlerts, apply on line and follow the news related to theirtrade through the site’s blog.

Recruiters can publish Premium or a Standardemployment adds, which will remain on line for 45days. By opening an account, recruiters are able tomanage the applications, receive CV Alerts, visualizestatistics and create a professional visit card. TheMichalak Connect blog is made for them as well.

Launched in August 2008, Michalak Connect reachesout to confirmed professionals, apprentices, finishingstudents and student trainees alike.

Visit www.michalakconnect.com for moreinformation.

The text is accompanied by stunning photographyby Aaron McLean. Clear technique shots, fabulous foodphotography and lifestyle shots taken in London, Paris,Belgium, Germany and Shanghai give this book a trulyinternational flavor.

Dean Brettschneider – A baker and patissier withan international following, Dean has worked in theUSA, Britain, Europe, Middle East, Asia and the Pacificand is regarded as one of the most respected andknowledgeable bakers globally. He spends his timetraveling in and around Asia Pacific and Europecreating an international following for exceptionalbaking and exploring new bakery trends, techniquesand ideas. He has written four international awardwinning baking books.


Off The Wire

in Paris as a chocolate maker prior to becoming chef chocolatierat the Wynn Hotel two years ago. He also won first prize at thecompetition on artistic pieces in Montargis, France, in March2004, and received his honors diploma at the Académie Culinairede France in April 2004.

Clement will represent the United States at the prestigious2009 World Chocolate Masters competition, where he willcompete against representatives from 19 other countries, includingBelgium, France, Switzerland, China, Australia and Brazil.The World Chocolate Masters competition will take place Oct.14-16, 2009, in Paris at the Salon Du Chocolat Professionnel.

The U.S. finals of the World Chocolate Masters were held atthe French Culinary Institute in New York. The competition wassponsored by Barry Callebaut and its Chocolate Academy; aswell as The Chocolate Show (Salon Du Chocolat); CaliforniaRaisins; Neilsen Massey Vanillas; Mafter Bourgeat culinaryproducts; Demarle non-stick baking products; Robot Coupefood processors; Chicago School of Mold Making; PCB pastrydecorations; Grand Marnier – Navan natural vanilla liqueur andKnipschildt Chocolatier.

Barry Callebaut – the world’s leading manufacturer of high-quality cocoa and chocolate products – recently announcedthat Lionel Clement, chef chocolatier at the Wynn Hotel in LasVegas, won the U.S. finals of the World Chocolate Masters, atop-level competition for chocolate craftsmen from all over theworld. Clement beat out four other pastry chefs and chocolatiersfrom some of the country’s leading hotels and restaurants onSunday, Nov. 9, to be named the U.S. National Chocolate Master2008-2009.

As part of the competition, each participant created a largechocolate sculpture that conveyed the theme of this year’scompetition – “Haute Couture” – using professional gourmetchocolate brands Callebaut, Cacao Barry, and Carma and theaesthetics of high fashion. They also showcased their skills bycreating chocolate pastries, pralines, and a smaller chocolateshowpiece made from special ingredients that were revealedto the contestants only a few minutes before the start of thecompetition.

“Barry Callebaut designed this event to give pastry chefsand chocolatiers a forum to showcase their unique abilities tocreate works of art using fine chocolate,” said Sarah O’Neil,director of marketing for Barry Callebaut North America.“Whether their inspiration was an elegant hat or a chic dress,these talented chefs brought the haute couture theme to lifewith their unique culinary creations.”

As part of the competition, a professional jury of top pastrychefs, including world-renowned chocolatier Jacques Torres,judged each contestant on their overall technical skills, as wellas the presentation of their artistic showpieces, and the tasteof their dipped pralines, moulded pralines, and chocolatepastry.

Clement’s winning chocolate showpiece featured an exquisitesilhouette of a woman’s face, with flowing hair and an elaboratehat made from different layers of chocolate that provided bothdimension and texture.

A graduate of the professional school “Les Sorbets” inNoirmoutier Island, France, Clement spent five years at Lenôtre

U.S. National ChocolateMasterWynn Hotel chocolatier wins U.S. National ChocolateMaster title with his ‘haute couture’ chocolate sculpture.

The 30th edition of SIGEP will be unforgettable as theInternational Exhibition of Artisan Ice cream,Confectionery and Bakery Production returns to RiminiFiera from the 17-21st of January 2009.

In addition to the three main events being held – TheGelato is Served, Delicious & Famous and SIGEP BreadCup – SIGEP 2009 will also present “Sicily Days”, an entireday celebrating Sicily’s famous confectionery products.

Explore the history behind cassata, cannoli, granita,ricotta, Martorana fruit, Modica chocolate and sorbets,all specialties originating in Sicily. Master confectionerLuciano Pennati will he on hand to demonstrate hiscreations allowing visitors to witness the production andtaste the profiles behind some of the region’s famouscreations.

For more information on SIGEP and “Sicily Days”visit www.sigep.it.

Jumbo Chocolate FountainQzina introduced the new Chocoa Jumbo ChocolateStainless Steel Fountain available in November 2008. Justin time for Christmas, the fountain will be available inboth Canada and the USA. The jumbo chocolate fountainstands 26.4” (67cm) tall and 12.6” (32cm) wide a capacityof up to 3kg (6.6lb) of delicious ready-to-be-dippedchocolate! This heavy duty fountain is primarily forcommercial use, suitable for hotels, restaurants and cateringservices. The jumbo chocolate fountain comes with a fullstainless steel tower, auger, digital soft-touch switch pad,and a removable heat basin that is easy to clean. Thefountain will be sold in a retail box with both English andFrench labeling.

QZINA is the largest NorthAmerican seller, marketer,importer and distributor ofgourmet professional chocolatesa n d s p e c i a l t y d e s s e r tingredients. Qzina distributes awide range of imported,domestic chocolate and pastryingredients to the gourmet,commercial and industrialcustomer segments, with eightkey geographic locations. Qzinaprofessionals have an expertknowledge of gourmet pastryingredients and chocolate,creating applications and trendsto serve Qzina customers.QZINA Specialty Foods NorthAmerica, Inc.

For more information aboutQZINA visit www.qzina.com.

30th SIGEP


RegionalShowcase

The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals.Each issue will provide:

Industry news, current events, competition results.

Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques.

Step by step instruction from our world-renownedpanel of Guest Contributors.

Truly regional coverage of hard working professionalswho share their experiences, stories and advice.

Complimentary online site for recipe archives andeducational videos.

Subscribe online atwww.PastryNA.com

introducing...Pastry&baking

N O R T H A M E R I C A


Regional Showcase

The Georgian (Black and White Chocolate Soufflé)

Executive Pastry Chef

The Fairmont Olympic Hotel411 University StreetSeattle, Washington

Artis Kalsons

Yield: 4-5 individual soufflés

Soufflé1 cup milk21/2 tbsp sugar51/2 tbsp butter81/2 tbsp bread flour (sifted)5 whole eggs (separated)5 tbsp sugar5 tbsp white chocolate shavings(or small chocolate chunks)5 tbsp dark chocolate shavings(or small chocolate chunks)

1. Boil milk and 21/2 tbsp of sugar.

2. In a separate pan, melt butter. Oncebutter is melted, add flour and cookslightly.

3. Add flour and butter mixture to milkand stir over low heat until thickened.Remove from heat and place in a mixerwith a paddle on low speed. Mix untilcooled, about 15 minutes.

4. Separate egg yolks from egg whites.Add yolks to mix and mix slightly. Addchocolate shavings until combined. Donot over mix. Remove from mixer.

5. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites with5 tbsp sugar until stiff peaks form.

6. Fold beaten egg whites intomixture/soufflé base. Brush butter anddust sugar into soufflé ramekins beforefilling them to 1/4 inch below the rim.

7. Bake in water bath at 375°F for 20-25minutes.

Vanilla Cream Sauce11/2 cups heavy cream1/2 cup milk4 yolks5 tbsp sugar1 vanilla bean

1. Cut and scrape vanilla bean seeds intoheavy cream and milk. Bring to a boil.

2. In a separate bowl, combine yolks andsugar. Pour boiling liquid over yolkand sugar mixture. Stir. Place back onstove over low heat, cook forapproximately 1 minute while stirring.Remove and strain. Chill. Serve withsoufflé.

Your Notes

Seattle

17

The Georgian(Black and White Chocolate Soufflé)


Regional Showcase

Brioche Bread Pudding

Executive Pastry Chef

Beverly WilshireA Four Seasons Hotel9500 Wilshire BoulevardBeverly Hills, CaliforniaTel: 310-275-5200

Deden Putra

350g/12.4 oz cooking red wine2 ea cinnamon stick3 ea star anis1 ea lemon rind

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

2. Peel and cut the bottom of the pears.Place in a hotel pan. Add sugar, wine,spices and lemon rind. Cover withaluminum foil and bake it for 1 hour.Keep the pears in syrup over night.

Caramel Orange Tuile100g/3.5 oz sugar25g/1 oz AP flour40g/1.4 oz orange juice50g/1.9 oz butter

1. Use a paddle attachment, beat sugarand butter in a mixing bowl until wellcombined. Add flour and orange juice.Spread on silpat using a roundtemplate and bake until golden brown.

2. Curve the tuile while it is still hotusing the mold.

Vanilla Anglaise250g/9 oz milk150g/5.4 oz cream90g/3.2 oz sugar180g/6.4 oz yolk10g/0.5 oz vanilla bean paste

1. Boil the cream, milk, vanilla bean pasteand half of the sugar.

2. Whip the yolks and half of the sugar.

3. Temper the yolks with the cream andcook the anglaise for a few minutes.

Assembly:1. Place the bread pudding on the center

of the plate along with the orange tuileand vanilla anglaise.

2. Thinly slice the poached pears andplace on the side of the pudding.

3. Serve with quenelle of white chocolatecranberry ice cream.

Beverly Hills

Brioche Pudding8 one-inch thick slices brioche bread230g/8 oz heavy cream230g/8 oz milk48g/1.9 oz yolk120g/4.2 oz egg70g/2.5 oz sugarpinch vanilla extractpinch cinnamonpinch nutmeg100 g/3.5 oz raisin70 g/2.8 oz butter

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Grease the bottom and sides of amedium muffin dish.

3. Cut the loaf of bread into cubes. Tosstogether the bread cubes and raisinsthen put them in medium bowl.

4. Whip together the melted butter, eggs,milk, cream, sugar, cinnamon, vanillaand nutmeg.

5. Pour the liquid mixture over the breadcubes and raisins. Scoop the mixtureinto prepared mold Bake the puddingfor about 45 minutes or until set.

White Chocolate Cranberry Ice Cream130g/4.6 oz sugar250g/9 oz milk500g/18 oz cream5 ea yolks230g/8 oz white chocolate (chopped)35g/1.3 oz dried cranberry

1. Combine 1/2 of sugar and egg yolk. Seta side.

2. Combine the rest of sugar, milk, creamin sauce pan, bring to a boil.

3. Temper with egg mixture and whiskin chopped white chocolate andcranberries. Chill in the refrigeratorover night before proceed in ice creammachine.

Spiced Poached Pear6 ea Sekle pears200g/7 oz sugar

Your Notes

19

Brioche Bread Pudding


Regional Showcase

Strawberries and Angel Food

Owner/Pastry Chef

BluestemKansas CityMissouriwww.bluestemkc.com

Megan Garrelts

Angel Food Cake10 egg whites1 tsp salt1 tsp cream of tartar1 vanilla bean, split and scraped1 cup granulated sugar1 cup all purpose flour, sifted 2 x4 tbsp granulated sugar, sifted

1. Whip egg whites, salt, cream of tartar,and vanilla until soft peaks form.

2. Slowly add 1cup of sugar to whippingwhites until soft shiny peaks form.

3. Combine flour and sifted sugar andfold into the egg whites.

4. Lightly coat a loaf pan in butter andsugar and scoop the angel food batterinto the pan.

5. Bake the cake in a 325°F convectionoven until lightly golden and the cakesprings back to the touch.

Rice Pudding11/2 cup water3/4 cup rice, uncooked arborio2 cup whole milk1/3 cup granulated sugar1/4 tsp salt1 egg, beaten1 tbsp unsalted butter1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Boil the water and add rice, stir and coverfor 20 minutes over medium heat.Stir in 11/2 cup milk, sugar, and salt to thecooking rice and continue to cook for 15– 20 minutes.Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup milk and egg,cook for 2 more minutes.Remove the pudding from the heat andstir in the butter and vanilla.

Strawberry Compote2 cup strawberries, diced1 cup champagne1/4 cup granulated Sugar1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Heat the champagne with the sugar andvanilla until the sugar is dissolved.Pour the warm syrup over the dicedstrawberries and chill.

Strawberry Sherbet2 qts strawberry puree1 qt fresh rhubarb3 cup granulated sugar1 cup light corn syrup2 cup water1/2 cup buttermilk

Combine the strawberry puree, rhubarb,sugar, corn syrup, and water in a largesauce pot and bring to a boil.Let the mixture simmer for 10 minutes,then strain through a fine mesh sieve.Chill the sherbet base then add thebuttermilk.Churn the sherbet in an ice creammachine and freeze.

Rhubarb Consommé8 rhubarb stalks, trimmed and clean1/2 pint strawberries2 tsp vanilla extract1cup granulated sugar3 cup water10 gelatin sheets, bloomed

Combine the rhubarb, strawberries,vanilla, sugar, and water in a large saucepot and bring to a boil.

Blend the hot fruit mixture and strainthrough a fine mesh sieve.

Transfer the fruit puree to a containerlined with cheese cloth and allow thepuree to strain through the cloth. Repeatthis step twice until a clear “consommé”is achieved.

Melt the bloomed gelatin over low heatand whisk into the rhubarb consommé.

Pour the consommé onto a flat *sheettray and allow the mixture to set-up.

Once the gelatin has set, slice theconsommé into small cubes for plating.

Strawberry Caramel4 cup sugar2/3 cup water3 tbsp light corn syrup1pint raspberries1 cup strawberry puree

Place the sugar, water, and corn syrup ina heavy bottom sauce pan and cook untilsoft ball.

Once the sugar is at softball stage, addthe raspberries and strawberry puree.

Cook the fruit in the sugar until all ofthe fruit juice is extracted and the mixtureboils rapidly.

Carefully remove the hot sauce from thestove and transfer to a blender.

Blend the sauce to thoroughly combineand then, strain the sauce through a finemesh sieve.

Chill the caramel before transferring intoa sauce bottle for plating. The sauce willthicken once cool.

Tuile Batter12 oz unsalted butter, soft3/4 cup honey23/4 cup all purpose flour3 cup powdered sugar6 egg whites2 tbsp pink peppercorn, crushed

Cream together the butter and honey.

Sift together the flour and powderedsugar and add to the creamed butter.

Add the egg whites to the butter mixture,followed with the crushed pinkpeppercorns and mix well.

Spread the tuile batter into desired shapeonto a silicon baking mat and bake in a325°F degree convection oven for 4-5minutes until lightly golden.

Carefully remove the cookies from thehot tray and cool.

Once the cookies are cool place them inan airtight container to use for platingthe dessert.

Kansas City

Rhubarb Strawberry Parfait, Vanilla Rice Pudding, Strawberry Caramel

21

Strawberries and Angel Food


Regional Showcase

Sherry-Poached Pears with a Pear andRaisin Compote and Maple-Roasted Walnuts

Pastry Chef

West2881 Granville StreetVancouver, CanadaTel: 604.738.8938www.westrestaurant.com

Rhonda Vianni

Vancouver

Yield: 4 servings

Poached and Roasted Pears4 ripe Bartlett pears11/4 c oloroso sherry1/3 c sugar1/2 orange zest1/4 tsp ground black pepper1/4 c raisins2 tbsp honey1/2 lemon juice

Peel, core and slice off the bottom half ofeach pear. Dice the bottom halves and setaside. Place pear tops in a mediumsaucepan with sherry, sugar and orangezest and simmer until tender,approximately 1 hour. Allow to cool.Remove pear tops from the liquid and setaside. Heat 3/4 cup of the liquid onmedium heat until reduced to a syrup,approximately 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a smallroasting pan, combine diced pears, blackpepper, raisins, honey and lemon juice.Roast this mixture in the oven, stirringperiodically until the pears are tender butnot mushy, approximately 30 minutes.Remove from oven and allow to cool.

Maple-Roasted Walnuts3/4 c walnuts1/4 c maple syrup

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread nuts ona baking sheet and lightly toast them inthe oven for 10 minutes. Shake off anddiscard the skins from the nuts. Drizzlethe nuts with maple syrup and toss to coat.Return to the oven and, stirring every 5minutes, bake until all the maple syruphas crystallized, approximately 20 minutes.

Crispy Filo1 tsp honey1 tbsp unsalted butter, melted2 sheets filo dough

Preheat oven to 325°F and line a bakingsheet with parchment paper. Whisktogether honey and butter and brushonto one sheet of filo dough. Place theother sheet on top and flatten with arolling pin. Brush the top with honeybutter. Cut the dough into dime-thickstrips and lay them out on the bakingsheet. Bake about 10 minutes until goldenbrown.

Assembly:Roughly chop walnuts and toss withroasted pear mixture. Divide the pearand walnut mixture among four ringmoulds the same diameter as the peartops, pressing down gently with the backof a spoon. Carefully remove rings. Placethe poached pear on top and drizzlesherry reduction over the pear. Sprinklefilo strips around the pear to look likea zest.

Your Notes

23

Sherry-Poached Pears with a Pear and RaisinCompote and Maple-Roasted Walnuts

Ben’s Lab

Publisher’s Note: Ben Roche is the pastry chef at MotoRestaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science afterdiscovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach topastry is unconventional, to say the least. In addition to hispastry chef duties, chef Roche also runs Roche OriginalConcepts LLC, an organization focused on food design,product development, and creative consultation.


Welcome to Ben’s Lab, the place where madness and mayhem take a vacation

together, then come back home and go to work. Today I’ll demonstrate

how to ‘transmogrify’ mangoes into a tasty sorbet that looks and behaves

like shredded cheese. You may be wondering what exactly

‘transmogrification’ entails. Well, I like to describe it as taking one ingredient

(or food product) and transforming it, reconstructing it if you will, into

a completely different food product that visually and texturally behaves

like said food product. I also like to say that the difference between a satellite

and a U.F.O. is... well, it’s exactly that... Let us proceed:

Equipment Needed:Mango sorbet base (cold)Metal bain marie ( 4-6” cylindrical container)Insulated container (Styrofoam cooler)Liquid nitrogen (LN2) (10 liters)Cutting boardKnifeGallon measuring cup for hot waterPlastic wrapLarge food processor (like Robot Coupe)with grating attachmentStrainer or slotted spoon(to retrieve grated cheese)Metal container to hold grated cheese

Other Items Needed for Nachos:Sweetened tortilla chipsLime yogurtStrawberry salsaChocolate ground beefBowl for serving

FrozenShreddedMango(Cheese)

25

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

8.7.

1. Fill metal bain marie with mangosorbet mix.

2. Place bain in Styrofoam cool andslowly fill with LN2.

3. Pour small amounts of LN2 on topto slowly form a layer of ice, topwith LN2.

4. Freeze mixture solid, place infreezer to temper for 1 hour.

5. Dip frozen container in hot wateror warm with torch to release sides.

6. Turn sorbet out on cutting board.

7. Cut in half with hot knife.

8. Wrap in plastic, let temper inrefrigerator until firm, but slightlysoftened (not soft).


Ben’s Lab

9-10. Grate sorbet in food processorinto LN2.

11. Retrieve cheese shards from LN2with strainer and place intoholding container in freezer.

12. To assemble the dish, placecandied tortilla chips in bowl andtop with fruit salsa.

13. Pipe on several ‘dollops’ of thick,lime flavored yogurt.

14-15. Top with chocolate ground beefand frozen mango ‘cheese’.

9. 10. 11.

12. 13. 14.

15.


maybe the fact that it was sitting for ages on the shelves of somediscount department store and the dry, crumbly mass had little to bedesired. If this has been their only experience of Stollen, then I cancompletely understand their lack of enthusiasm. However, I am hereto dispel the notion that all Stollen is unpleasant. Stollen can be flavorful,moist, and enjoyable, as long as you follow a few simple tips.

First off, a little history. Stollen is said to have originated in Dresen,Germany during the 1400s. Originally it was made without butter dueto church restrictions and pre-Christmas fasting rules. The lack of butterresulted in a very dry product, and it is from this origin that Stollenreceives its dry reputation. It was not until 1650 when Prince Ernestvon Sachsen appealed to the Pope to lift the restriction of using butterduring Advent. Thanks to this petition, we now have the opportunityto enjoy Stollen the way that it was intended to be eaten during theAdvent season: as a traditionally-shaped Stollen rich in butter, candiedfruit, and flavorful spices. So, if you are still convinced that Stollen hasto be dry, you may still be living in a time gone by when Stollen wasprepared without one of its key ingredients.

Besides butter, there are some other key ingredients that contributeto a successful Stollen and cannot be overlooked. First off is candiedor dried fruit. Personally, I like to soak the fruit in the syrup mixturewell in advance; the best is if you soak them anywhere from 1 day toup to 2 months prior to use. The longer the fruit soaks, the more flavorand moisture is infused into the fruit.

The second ingredient is almond paste. I have fond memories as achild of eating Stollen and “discovering” the soft almond paste in thecenter. It’s what I grew up with, and so all Stollen I make has thisingredient, but if you do not care for it or if there are nut allergy concerns,then simply leave it out.

The last item that can put your Stollen over the top is the additionof the sugar coating. The sugar is both a visual treat and a naturalpreservative to lengthen the shelf life. I like to use a vanilla sugar. Tomake it, simply place a couple of vanilla beans together with your sugarin an airtight, plastic container. After some time, the vanilla essence ofthe beans will permeate throughout the sugar. As a personal treat I liketo cover the Stollen first with granulated sugar and then with powderedsugar on the following day. This gives just a bit more of a texturalexperience than using powdered sugar alone.

It is my pleasure to share with you one of my personal favoriteformulas for the Holiday season. If you use quality ingredients alongwith a little bit of time, then your family and customers will be treatedto a delicious, flavorful, and moist Stollen that will hopefully erase anynegative Stollen memories of the past.

hy is it that when you mention Stollen to some people,they cringe with horror? Perhaps it was their memoryof hard, burnt fruit that practically broke a tooth. OrW

Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair forthe International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson &Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has beenrecognized both nationally and internationally with numerousawards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published twoDVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book,Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008.More information on Ciril and his work can be found on hisweb site: www.breadhitz.com.

Stolen

Artisan Baker

BIGAIngredients Metric Pounds %Bread flour 1000g 2# 3.2 oz 100Milk 600g 1# 5.1 oz 60Yeast, Instant 1g .03 oz .1

1. Combine all of the above ingredients till a smoothconsistency is achieved.

2. Cover container and allow to ferment overnight at roomtemperature.

Ingredients Metric Pounds %

Bread flour 1500g 3# 4.8 oz 100

Whole eggs 400g 14.1 oz 26.6

Milk 200g 7 oz. 13.3

Granulated sugar 350g 12.3 oz 23.3

Yeast, instant 60g 2.1oz 4

Salt 50g 1.7 oz 3.3

Butter, Plugra 670g 1# 7.6 oz 44.6

FINAL DOUGH

Ingredients Metric PoundsAlmond Paste 700g 1# 8 oz.Egg whites 60g 2 oz.Lemon zest 1 lemon 1 lemon

Optional Filling

With a paddle, work the almond paste smooth and then add the zest.Slowly introduce the egg whites until a soft consistency is achieved.It should not be so sticky that you need flour to roll out the logs onthe table.

Ingredients Metric Pounds %

Vanilla 60g 2.1 oz 4

Lemon zest, fresh 2 each 2 each

Cinnamon, ground 10g .35 oz .6

Dark Rum 120g 4.2 8

Simple Syrup As needed As needed

Raisins, dark 1200g 2# 10.3 80

Raisins, golden 600g 1# 5.1 oz 40

Dried cranberries 600g 1# 5.1 oz. 40

Dried apricots, cubed 450g 15.8 oz. 30

Slivered almonds, toasted 450g 15.8 oz. 30

Pre-ferment 1600 3# 8.4 oz 106.6

FINAL DOUGH CONT.

1. Macerate the dried fruit in rum and top off with simplesyrup until it reaches the top of the fruit. Let sit at roomtemperature for a minimum of overnight and up to 2 months.Note: If macerating for a longer period, store the fruit andsyrup mixture in the fridge. The night before baking, removefrom fridge and let come to room temperature.

2. Drain the liquid that has not been absorbed from themacerated fruit.

3. Combine the preferment, yeast, eggs, flour, sugar, cinnamon,and salt until the dough comes together on 1st speed, around4 minutes.

4. Slowly incorporate the butter on 2nd speed and mix untila well-developed gluten window is attained.

5. Gently incorporate the nuts and fruit.

6. Work on the table with some flour into a smooth, roundshape.

7. Allow a bulk fermentation of 1 hour. Give the dough a stretchand fold and allow another 1/2 rest time.

8. Divide into desired size (400g or 14 oz) and work round.

9. Allow an additional resting time of 20 minutes, then workthe dough into torpedo-like shapes and divide in half witha wooden dowel.

10.Roll indentation out into desired shape, fill with almondpaste mixture, and allow about 1 hour for final proof. TheStollen should double in size.

11.Bake at 350ºF in a convection oven until golden brown(about 20-25 minutes). While still hot, brush the Stollenwith clarified butter (around 450g for this formula).

12.Dust after buttering with granulated sugar, then let coolovernight before dusting with powdered sugar.


Artisan Baker

2.

1.

3.

5. 7.6.

4.

1. After the dough has been fully developed, add the drainedmacerated fruit to the dough. Finish by working the dough ona floured table by hand to form a smooth mass.

2. This is what a properly developed dough with all the fruit foldedin looks like. This well-developed window will cover and protectthe fruit from burning during the bake.

3. After the bulk fermentation stage, divide the dough into thedesired weight increments and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Thenusing a dowel, press down to “split” the dough in half (but donot actually press through to the bottom.)

4. Working on a well-floured surface, roll this indentation until itstretches to about 4-5 inches. Make sure that the dough does nottear during this procedure.

5. Place the pre-rolled log of almond paste in the middleof the extended membrane (optional).

6. Take one of the dough “lips” and fold it over thealmond paste and place it just short of the other“lip”. Then make an indent into the back third of theStollen with a dowel to seal off the almond pastesection.

7. After the baking, place the Stollen on a sheet pan orwire rack and brush it twice with some clarifiedbutter. Wait about one minute before covering withgranulated sugar. If coating with powdered sugar,make sure that the Stollen is completely cool (it isbest to let cool overnight.)


Chef in Focus

Michelle Garcia serves up sweets with a pinch of tatitude.

By Natalie SlaterPhotography by Bill Lambert


lake breeze. Across the street, a renovated vintage neon signproclaims “Organic Bakery,” and like a ransom note on thestorefront, mismatched letters spell out “Bleeding Heart.” Thesweet smell of brownies in the air is enough to tempt a few awayfrom their post on the corner. Another bus will come, but buttery,flaky layers of a warm chocolate croissant with The Clash blaringin the background- that’s the breakfast of champions.

It’s all tattoos and smiles behind the counter as two busypastry school interns pack up signature Take a Hike scones – ahearty vegan biscuit made with dried fruit and flax seeds- andpour coffee, fair trade organic, of course. The horde of clamoringcustomers, from the bike messengers in ripped jeans to the well-heeled ladies headed to the Financial District, take their timechoosing between Ginger Cream scones and shortbreads glitteringwith sea salt.

Darting in and out of the kitchen, carefully displaying whiskey-and-chocolate infused cupcakes named for punk rock icon SidVicious, and bacon-speckled banana brownies simply namedThe Elvis, is the 30-year-old pastry chef behind the madness.Her blue Mohawk flattened under her chef ’s cap, she stops brieflyto straighten out a cupcake-shaped table and she’s off. There’sbread to bake. Over-the-top wedding cakes to sketch and let’snot forget the pilot she’s shooting for a reality series with FilmGarden Entertainment. When she isn’t in the kitchen or makingdeliveries she’s scouting out sustainable packaging options at

he moon lingers in the sky over Chicago’s RoscoeVillage neighborhood. People huddle at the bus stop,tucking their faces into their collars against the frigidT

Chef in Focus


Chef in Focus

trade shows and cheering on the Windy City Rollers, her localroller derby team. The tattoo on her throat reads, “revolution,”after all, and no one ever said revolution was easy.

The yet-to-be-named TV show is still in the early stages,but you might recognize Garcia from her appearances on FoodNetwork Challenge. Her sculpted cakes are daring and fanciful,but her commitment to sustainable organic foods and eco-friendly packaging and ingredients is often a challenge for hercompetition pieces. In the Extreme Cake Challenge Garcia’srefusal to use Styrofoam cake forms was ultimately her downfallbut she bounced back and has gone on to place high on thescorecards in other challenges. Win or lose, this punk rockpastry chef prefers to always do things her way.

“People are always commenting, ‘organic and punk rock? Idon’t see how that goes together,’” says Garcia, “But I feel thewhole point of being punk rock is battling against what peoplethink is the social norm. I want everyone to wake up and seethe big picture.’”

At 14 years old, the Chicago suburbs native moved into aschool for “troubled kids.” She often found herself placed onkitchen disciplinarian duty. There she learned bakingfundamentals from the school’s chef, a Culinary Institute ofAmerica graduate who made her own brioche for French toasteach morning. “I started getting into trouble on purpose so Icould hang out with her,” Garcia says laughingly.

At 17, Garcia left school to travel the country, only stoppingin one place long enough to get a job in some kitchen, learna new skill, make a little money and move on. Garcia returned

to Chicago at 19 and started her culinary training at KendallCollege. Still a rebellious teenager, she didn’t commit to herstudies. “The teachers always told me ‘you’re so good at this,if you’d only apply yourself,” she recalls. After taking a yearoff, Garcia enrolled in The French Pastry School where sheexcelled at sugar work and candy making. She’s still in closecontact with the school’s co-founder, Sebastien Canonne, MOF,and participates in the annual For the Love of Chocolate charityevent the school sponsors.

After graduating, Garcia started working for Katrina Markoff,founder of Vosges Haut Chocolat. “I really looked up to Katrinaand what she’d done with the color purple,” she says, referringto the chocolate company’s instantly recognizable packaging.And these early lessons in branding stuck with theimpressionable chef as she came to realize that quality inproduct is only half the equation. These days Garcia’s acidyellow, neon blue and hot pink logo is as recognizable as herleopard print cupcake papers. She is the punk pastry chef,known all over the world thanks to a frequently updated Flickraccount and a popular My Space profile.


Chef in Focus

While helping to develop recipes for the mini cakesat Vosges, Garcia started to attract her own customerbase at Chicago’s Green City Market with her organicbaked goods. “I grew up eating organic foods,” she says,“my parents were doctors and even then they knew itwas the way to go health-wise.” Pregnant with her firstchild, Gabriel, Garcia spent her down time at hometaking business courses online. After eight months ofselling at farmer’s markets Garcia felt comfortable thatshe’d built a loyal clientele and, with her husband-turned-cake-decorator Vinny, opened up her first retailspace on Chicago Avenue in 2005. Remarkably, TheBleeding Heart Bakery was already turning a profit afteronly 6 months.

The aptly named Bleeding Heart Bakery is more thana sweet shop; it’s a model for sustainable business. Usingonly local, organic ingredients, Garcia has actually metthe chickens that lay the eggs she uses. A stint underSiemon de Jong and Noam Offer at Amsterdam’s DeTaart d’ M’n Tante opened her eyes to the wastefulnessof conventional American bakeries. “People here getfrustrated with seasonal pastries, ‘Why don’t you havestrawberries in the winter?’ Where in the Midwest doyou see strawberries growing in the winter?”

But a commitment to seasonal organics andconserving resources extends beyond a few sticks ofbutter, and Garcia has taken this into account with herbiodegradable packaging, refurbished used cafe furnitureand even a hybrid delivery vehicle. Each month she

creates a charity cupcake with proceeds going directly to localcauses such as Girls Rock! Chicago – which sponsors musiceducation for young women – to her recent line of Obamacakes that supported the Democratic candidate’s campaign.“If McCain won the election,” she says, “I was headed rightback to Amsterdam.”

Three years after invading the Ukrainian Village, and afterthe birth of her second child, Sophie, Garcia relocated toBelmont and Damen Avenues, just a few blocks away fromClark and Belmont, the punk rock capital of Chicago. Thelocation, she says, was part of her effort to give back to thecommunities she’d taken from in her teenage years. Havingbeen homeless on the streets of that very neighborhood, shefelt opening up shop here was a good way to say “thank youfor letting me be who I was then and I hope you like who I amnow.”

Early morning lines, most time out the door, for heartycranberry cookies and ham and cheese croissants suggests theneighborhood does, in fact, like who she is now. Ask any toddlerat Fellger Park kiddy corner about Bleeding Heart and they’resure to say their favorite cupcakes come from the “tattooedlady” across the street. The stroller crowd has made this placetheir own, which Garcia loves, but it became more and moreobvious to Garcia this wasn’t the place to showcase her Frenchpastries.

In August Michelle and Vinny opened Chaos Theory Cakesand Confections in the posh Lincoln Park neighborhood. Withits graffitied walls and pricey cake slices – $14 for a slice ofspinach cake with green apples and onion mousse for two –it’s Garcia’s pet project. Whereas Bleeding Heart is where sheexpresses herself as a wife, mother of two and true-blue punkrocker, Chaos Theory is where Michelle Garcia, the seriouspastry chef, comes to play. Sandwiched between a handful of

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41

Chef in Focus

PEACH AND CORNMOUSSE CAKE

Makes 11/2 sheet mousse cake in pan extender

Corn Jaconde492g almond TPT (half almond flour, 1/2 10x)69g AP flour328g whole eggs44g melted butter225g egg whites340g sucrose600g fresh corn

1. Whip the whites and the yolks separately to softpeaks splitting the sucrose between the twoevenly.

2. Temper the yolks into the whites, fold bothtogether and sift the tpt and four on top of themixture while folding.

3. Add butter and mix swiftly, careful not to deflatethe jaconde.

4. Spread evenly onto two 1/2 sheet pans lined withparchment and sprinkle with fresh corn.

5. Bake for approximately 8 minutes at 325ºF.

6. Cool.

Peach Mousse900g sweetened roasted peaches - pureed800g heavy cream11g gelatin50g warm water75g heavy cream

1. Dissolve gelatin in warm water, mix with 75g ofheavy cream.

2. Whip 800g heavy cream to soft peaks. Temperroasted peach puree with heavy cream and foldtogether. Add gelatin and whisk briefly.

3. Mold immediately.

Chantilly Cream545g heavy cream60g 10X powdered sugar340g sour cream11g gelatin50g warm water75g heavy cream216g corn1. Dissolve gelatin in warm water and mix with

75g heavy cream.

2. Whip 345g heavy cream with 60g 10x to softpeaks.

3. Fold sour cream into whip cream. Whisk togetherwith gelatin and mold quickly.

trendy bars, Chaos Theory is Garcia’s upscale offering. “When itcomes down to it, other bakeries pay $40 for a case of butter and Ipay $140 for a case of organic butter.” she says, “I can’t charge whatother people charge so I feel like I need to offer an atmosphere thatdemands the kind of prices I have to charge.”

Thus far, Chaos Theory has met with mixed reviews. Faithfulfollowers of Garcia’s work praise Chaos for it’s “grown up” aestheticsand challenging flavors like cilantro cupcakes and avocado moussecakes with balsamic vinegar and black peppercorns – ideas inspiredby Rudolph van Veen. Naysayers question the logic of a savory dessert,and often mistakenly compare the patisserie with the slew of cupcakeshops that have popped up all over Chicago in the past few years.

“It’s scary,” Garcia admits about opening a niche pastry shop in astruggling economy. “The idea was to give the cakes a home andenhance that part of the business, but right now the space is just barelypaying for itself.” Having just secured the permit to build a kitchen inChaos Theory she plans on hosting an organic brunch on weekendsand renting the colorful space out for private parties. Meanwhile, hermotley crew of tattooed pastry school interns and touring-musicians-turned-baristas serve up a much needed kick in the taste buds to anotherwise sugar free strip of Lincoln Avenue.

The sun is just coming up in the window of Chicago’s most subversivepastry shop and over a cup of coffee and the sound of Iron Maidenplaying in the kitchen, Michelle Garcia considers the possibility ofopening a cupcake shop in Amsterdam or maybe a donut shop inAustin, Texas. Wherever the rebel baker goes, her fans are sure to follow.“If you make things you love,” she says, “other people will love themtoo.” And so far she’s been right on.


Chef in Focus

43

Caramel Sauce400g evaporated cane juice200g heavy cream

Bring cane juice to desired caramel color and addwarm cream. Whisk together for approx. 5 minutesand cool.

Simple Syrup157g simple syrup (50 percent water, 50 percent sugar)

Assembly1. Line 1/2 sheet pan with acetate paper and pan

extender. Evenly spread sliced seared peaches.

2. Spread peach mousse evenly on top of the searedpeaches.

3. Gently place 1 layer of jaconde on top of the mousseand brush with simple syrup, then caramel sauceand the rest of the seared peaches.

4. Spread chantilly cream evenly over first layer ofjaconde and cover with last layer of jaconde.

5. Freeze overnight.

6. Flip cake over release cake by using a torch to thesides carefully.

7. Slice into desired portions.

8. We garnish each slice with a freeze dried corn tuileand quenelle of créme fraiche whipped cream.

Seared Peaches600g sliced ripe peaches75 g butter160g evaporated cane juice

1. Heat butter in sauté pan, add peaches and sauté. Once peaches geta slight brown edge, add evaporated cane juice and sauté untilsugar has coated all sides of peaches.

2. Slide peaches onto sheet pan to cool.


Grand Gateaux

Publisher’s Note: Kirsten Tibballs is one ofAustralia’s most celebrated and internationallyrespected pastry chefs. Specialising in chocolateand patisserie, Kirsten is the AustralianAmbassador for Callebaut and Cacao BarryChocolate and she established the SavourChocolate and Pat i sser ie School inMelbourne in 2002. For more information visitwww.savourschool.com.au

IngredientsCallebaut Dark Couverture 53.8%Callebaut Grenade Couverture 60%Callebaut Caramel ChocolateRumMascarpone CheeseGold Gelatine SheetsEspresso

EquipmentDemarle Flexipan Mini-Drop (Ref 1144)Demarle Flexipan Rounds (Ref 1548)Silpat matDisposable piping bagNo. 9 plain round piping nozzleAngled palette knifeSieve20cm diameter round cake boardsCompressor and spray gun

Rich chocolate brownie covered with a layer ofcaramelised banana cream, coffee mousse and sesamenougatine disc, completed with a caramel glaze andchocolate mousse garnish.

I created this entremet for the birthday of one of Australia’s most celebratedartists. The flavour is a classic combination that is reflected in the final appearance.

CoffeeAmbre

1. Mix all the ingredients together incorporating themacadamia nuts last.

2. Spread into Demarle Flexipan Rounds (Ref 1548) and bakeat 180ºC for 5-8 minutes.

45

Brownie Base310g Callebaut Dark Couverture 53.8%225g Unsalted Butter3 Eggs190g Caster Sugar125g Plain Flour90g Self Raising Flour300g Chopped roasted nuts of your choice

Melt chocolate and butter together. Blend with dry ingredientsand eggs. Press into Demarle Flexipan Rounds (Ref 1548).Bake at 180ºC for 5-8 minutes and allow to cool. The browniewill still feel very soft at this stage but it will turn into a nicefudge base as it cools.

Caramilsed Banana325g Peeled ripe bananas30g Lemon Juice30g Butter100g Brown Sugar20ml Rum400g Marscarpone Cheese

Cut peeled bananas 1cm thick sprinkle with lemon juice.

Sauté in butter and brown sugar until caramelized.

Cool below 32ºC before folding through the rum andmarscarpone cheese.

Spread a thin layer on top of the prepared brownie base.

Mousse coffee600ml Milk24g Gold Gelatine Sheets200g Sugar2 Vanilla Beans10 Egg Yolks1200ml Semi Whipped Cream 35% butterfat50g Espresso

Boil milk and cut and scraped vanilla. Blend egg yolks andsugar together and pour boiled milk slowly over the egg mixture.Return to the stove and reheat while continually stirring to85ºC. Add presoaked gelatin the strain and cool as quickly aspossible to 32ºC. Add coffee and fold through semi whippedcream. Pipe over caramelized banana mixture.

Caramel Chocolate Glaze250g Milk80g Glucose8g Gold Gelatine Sheets600g Callebaut Caramel Chocolate

Boil the milk with the glucose. Then add the pre soaked gelatineand pour over caramel chocolate. Cool before glazing.

Nougatine Sesame125g Butter100g Caster Sugar50g Honey50g Glucose165g Sesame Seeds15g Cocoa Nibs10g Pectin N.H

Combine all ingredients apart from the sesame seeds and cocoanibs. Stir on the heat until you achieve a golden brown colour.Add sesame seeds and nibs. Bake in the oven at 180ºC for10-15 minutes.

Grenade Chocolate Mousse6 Egg Yolks40g Castor Sugar220g Callebaut Grenade Couverture 60%120g Butter6 Egg Whites40g Sugar

Whisk egg yolks and sugar together until light and creamy.Melt couverture and butter together. Whisk Egg whites andadd the sugar gradually. Fold together yolks and chocolatemixture then fold through egg white mixture.

2.1.


Grand Gateaux

3. Melt brown sugar to a caramel. Add lemon juice and bananasand continue to caramelise.

4. Create the sesame nougatine disc by placing all theingredients in a saucepan and stir over the heat until youreach a light golden colour. Then add the sesame seeds andcocoa nibs.

5. Press 35g of the sesame nougatine mixture into each DemarleFlexipan (ref 1548) and bake at 180ºC for 10-15 minutes.

5.3. 4.

7.6. 8.6. Place caramelised babana mixture over the brownie base

and spread to form an even layer. Be sure not to take tothe edge of the ring.

7. Pour prepared coffee anglaise mixture previously cooledto 32ºC and fold through the semi whipped cream.

8. Pipe a layer of the coffee mouse over the caramelisedbanana layer. Spoon the mixture up the side of the cakering to avoid air pockets.

47

10.9. 11.

13.12.9. Place the sesame disc onto of the coffee mousse and fill to the

top of the cake ring with the remaining mixture.

10. Level the top with an angled palette knife.

11. Pipe prepared chocolate mousse into Demarle Flexipan (Ref1144) then level with a spatula or palette knife and freezebefore unmoulding.

12. Glaze frozen entremet with prepared caramel glaze at atemperature of 35-40ºC.

13. Arrange the unmoulded tear drops in circle arrangementand spray with prepared yellow cocoa butter.

FinishingPlace the sprayed chocolate mousse on top of the glazedentremet. Place three chocolate twigs in the centre and finishthe side with a textured chocolate square finished with aPCB bronze metallic powder.


Pumpernickel

Better Baking

Publisher’s Note: Leo de Leijer is a 5th generationDutch baker with over 45 years of professional experience.After his initial training, Leo gained experience in variousmid to large sized Dutch companies and has been employedby the IREKS Company in the Export Division for 26 years.

Pumpernickel is a type of German bread traditionally

made with coarsely-ground rye meal. It is now often

made with a combination of rye flour and whole rye

berries. It has been long associated with the Westphalia

region of Germany. The first written mention of the black

bread of Westphalia was in 1450. While it is not known

whether this, and other early references, refer to precisely

the bread that came to be known as pumpernickel, there

has long been something different about Westphalian rye

bread that elicited comment. The defining characteristics

of Westphalian pumpernickel are coarse rye flour – rye

meal – and an exceedingly long baking period. The long

slow baking is what gives pumpernickel its characteristic

dark color. The bread can emerge from the oven deep

brown, even black.

Pumpernickel is often used for open sandwiches and

in fine dining as a basis for a multitude of different snacks

and canapés.

Recipe:

IREKS PUMPERNICKEL 10.000kgWater (55 - 60ºC) 7.500lInstant yeast 0.010kgTotal weight 17.510kg

Mixing time: 30 minutes slow. Add theyeast to the doughduring the last 5 minutesof the mixing time.

Dough temperature: 29 - 32ºC

1.To achieve an optimum dough temperature, the water should bebetween 55 - 60ºC.

59

2.

4.

3.

5.

8. 9.

Tip: Scaling and moulding is easier with wet hands. After a bulk fermentation time of two hours, place the piecesdirectly into greased toast bread tins. The toast bread tinshould be filled to approx. 1 cm below the upper rim.

Tip: If your oven does not have steam, pour some water ontothe baking tray.

As soon as a core temperature of at least 96ºC has been reached,the bread has been optimally baked.

Pumpernickel has a long consumption freshness and apleasant, slightly sweet taste.

The finished canapés – colourful, deliciously decorated, aneye-catcher for every buffet.

6. 7.

Press the dough into the greased tins and smooth the surfacewith a dough scraper. We recommend baking the pumpernickelin closed toast bread tins.

For canapés, the pumpernickel can also be wrapped as a rollin metal foil.

2. 3.


Better Baking

221-D8 SIGEP PAST. a4 gb x PASTRY & BAKING ASIA PACIFIC tra.indd 1 22-07-2008 12:21:32


Industry Insider: Interviews by Mitch Stamm

Matt McDonald CMB

Matt McDonald is a Certified Master Baker (CMB) and was part of the Bread BakersGuild of America’s Baking Team USA that competed in the Coupe du Monde de laBoulangerie in both 1999 and 2002. Matt has worked in various aspects of the industry:baker for Artisan Bakers in Sonoma, baking and pastry instructor at the National BakingCenter in Minneapolis, vice president of operations for Hudson Bread South in NewJersey and director of wholesale operations for the Willo Baking Company in Phoenix.Today, as head baker for Bouchon Bakery (part of the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group)Matt’s responsibilities are extensive and he sits down with MitchStamm for a candid discussion on the industry and his 15 year journey.

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Industry Insider

MITCH STAMM: Unfortunately, the National Baking Centerclosed Its doors in July 2001, but not without havingtremendous influence on the craftsmanship of America’s risingartisan bakers. You were fortunate enough to intern at theNBC. Describe the experience?MATT MCDONALD: My pursuit of making the best bread ledme to Minneapolis and The National Baking Center. It was acollaborative effort from industry, education and the BreadBakers Guild of America. Headed by Tom McMahon – founderof the Guild- along with influential instructors such as DidierRosada and Philippe LeCorre, the experience was initiallyintimidating. Coming from a typical American bakerybackground, the NBC was unlike anything I had ever encountered. Everything about it was serious and intense. We operated at avery high level with an agenda of advancing the education ofAmerican bakers. I soon came to appreciate the extraordinaryatmosphere at the NBA but am saddened that others will nothave the same opportunity.

You are the head baker in one of America’s most respectedrestaurant groups. What is the corporate culture like atBouchon Bakery and how has it influenced your approach towork and leadership?Our philosophy in The Thomas Keller Restaurant Group is basedupon the guest experience. Every member of the team directlycontributes with the goal of making memories that will last alifetime. The bakery was opened to service The French Laundryand Bouchon as well as the community. Now we also have AdHoc which we service. We all know how important bread is tocomplement a dish, but we are a part of three different teams,providing different breads for each – helping all deliver the

highest possible quality and best possible service. My team isconstantly working as we deliver 4 times each week day and 5times each weekend day to The French Laundry, 3 times eachday to Bouchon and one time each day to Ad Hoc. This requiresinvolvement and participation from top to bottom. Our porterscome to make sure we are on time with each delivery, my assistantand the rest of our team knows that the items we produce aregoing to impact each guest’s experience and it is important toeach of us that they remember how good the bread was. Thiscontributes to the overall success of the group.

55

When hiring, what qualities do you seek in candidates?I look for characteristics that I know are important to a candidate’ssuccess. Certainly cleanliness and organization are important,but I am in a position of mentoring and there are other traits Ifind critical to a long term relationship with team members.First is team before self. Next is the desire to that which is greaterthan self and third is to endeavor to be better than one is now.

Can you describe bread service at the French Laundry,Bouchon, and Ad Hoc. What breads are offered? How doesbread service transpire?Bread service at all of our properties is very important to ourguests’ experiences. We match the service with the propertywhile delivering in every case the greatest impact to the guest.At The French Laundry, for example, we offer four differentsliced breads and five different rolls. We pair sliced breads withfoie gras and cheese courses, while offering choices of rollswith other courses.

What products (or types of products) other than bread areyou responsible for?I am currently responsible for bread and pastry produced atthe bakery, from breads and viennoisseries to ice creams andsorbets. Fortunately, we operate in a team oriented format andhave some of the best talent available. Our leaders at all of ourproperties are very supportive of each other and willing to helpout whenever needed.

Walk me through your typical day?I have a fairly normal day. I begin by wakingup and getting the kids ready for school whilechecking my calendar, email and voicemail.After a cup of coffee and rushing everyone off,I arrive at work. I make sure to greet everyonein the bakery and ask if there are any issues Ineed to be aware of or any areas where I canhelp solve a problem. At this point productionis well on its way and it is nice to see our guests.We have a great mix of local clientele andtourists who have gone to great lengths tomake our bakery a destination. I return to thekitchen to help keep the team on schedule andto work side by side to provide support in apractical setting.

You mentioned multiple daily deliveries toeach venue. Do you retard any of theproducts? Are you in contact with the venuesthroughout the day or are there standingorders?Our deliveries are timed with each restaurant to maximize theguest experience. For example, we bake our largest loaves for AdHoc, 12 hours before service. These loaves take this amount oftime to fully develop their flavor and texture profiles. Our smallestproducts would be the rolls served at The French Laundry, beingfired minutes before going to the table. We, like any otherwholesale bakery, prefer standing orders but are accessible throughour order department and in emergencies, in the kitchen. As ourdeliveries are tuned to guest experience, so are the processesutilized. We use every tool in the kit to maximize impact on theguest. We use direct method, pre-fermentation and delayedfermentation depending on the desired result.

Describe the process of developing and introducing newproducts.Developing new products is always fun for us. We definitelycollaborate in this area. It may be a group of us sitting aroundchatting about things we would like to make or even just anexperience that inspires us to try something new. I like to usethese things to demonstrate different techniques to my staffand use them as educational opportunities to help them intheir futures. Regardless of the source, we will work on it inthe kitchen until we are happy with the results. From there Iwill schedule a tasting with Chef and others who will be involvedwith the product. We will discuss our impressions and makecorrections until we all support the product, then it goes intoproduction.

“We all know how importantbread is to complement adish, but we are a part of

three different teams,providing different breads foreach – helping all deliver thehighest possible quality and

best possible service.”


Industry Insider

Pain RustiqueIngredients Bakers

PercentWeight(to make 10 kg)

Low Protein, Hard Red,Winter Wheat Flour

100 5.249 kg

Water 71.24 3.729 kg

Instant Dry Yeast .58 .030 kg

Sea Salt 2.15 .113 kg

Levain (125% hydration) 16.56 .869 kg

Nathan “Mitch” Stamm is an instructor with the InternationalBaking & Pastry Institute at Johnson and Wales University inRhode Island. He is former executive pastry chef of the Sun ValleyResort in Sun Valley, Idaho. He also served as pastry chef atZingerman’s Bakehouse in Ann Arbor, Michigan. A member of theBread Bakers’ Guild of America, Mitch has extensive training inhearth breads, the science of baking, pastries, and plated desserts.

Improved mix: Incorporate ingredients on low speed then mixfor 5 minutes on second speed (with a 200 rpm mixer).

First fermentation: 2 hours and 15 minutes. Punch and fold at30 minutes, 1 hour and 1 hour 30 minutes.

Divide: 550g rustic diamond shaped loaves.

Proof: Upside down on flour dusted linens.

Bake: Right side up with steam at 440ºF. When good color hasdeveloped, open the oven vent and doors and bake for about 10more minutes.

If you could say anything about bread or bread making, whatwould it be?I still love to eat it! After all, it is the most important componentin a meal. I look forward to the bread I am going to enjoy withevery dish.

What has baking meant to you?Some of my most memorable experiences. From meeting thewoman who would be my wife, to performing in front ofthousands of people at trade shows. In the end, I love what I doand really appreciate the opportunity to teach and promote thecraft and have an impact on someone else’s career.

What size is your staff?I have four direct reports with a total of 44 staff in the bakery.We operate 24/7 in production while our retail is open 7 am to7 pm everyday. We produce bread and pastry in the same kitchenand share some equipment, including a selection of mixers, adough divider, a divider/rounder, a baguette molder, a sheeterand a fermentation tank.

What do you see as the biggest challenge facing bakers in thefuture?I think the biggest challenge facing tomorrow’s leaders is thesame as it has always been…finding the right mentor. We’ve allhad to find that individual who will challenge and inspire anotherto exceed his own expectations.

What are you currently reading?I am currently reading The Leadership Challenge.

The Thomas Keller Restaurant Group is well known for beingan active member of the community. What are you currentlyworking on?Absolutely. We enjoy giving back and are involved year roundwith charities, donations and parties in town. My favorite eventis the Veteran’s Day Luncheon at the Yountville Veteran’s Home. We make the bread at the bakery and all the local chefs gettogether and cook for about 1000 veterans. It is a super experiencemeeting the vets. Another event we started is bringing in localschool kids to be bakers for the day. Recently we had a 2nd gradeclass come in and it was a lot of fun introducing them to bread,shaping baguettes and touring the bakery.

What advice would you give to people interested in a bakingcareer?Work in a bakery first. Then pursue education. It helps to realizeyou don’t even know what you don’t know.

Any truth to the San Francisco/Napa Valley sourdough lore?This is your chance to dispel or confirm once and for all.The truth is that some of the best sourdoughs I’ve ever had comefrom the Bay Area/Napa Valley. I’m siding with my friends onthis one though. We believe it to be more about the quality ofthe bakers and their experience with the product as opposed tothe distance from the Equator.

Little, Brown and CompanyHachette Book Group

www.confetticakes.com

Elisa Strauss,

the most sought-after cake designer in New York City, presents a whimsical collection of cakes, cookies, and cupcakes to delight children—whatever the occasion. Gorgeous photos and step-by-step instructions make creating 24 extraordinary projects easy and fun!

BE

N F

INK

Wildly imaginative kids’ cakes, cookies, and cupcakes—

from the founder of Confetti Cakes.


Chocolate Love

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.

Gelatin

Tools:Putty knifeBrushMeasuring cupPolycarbonate demi-sphere moldPlastic rectangular container

Sphere

Ingredients:100 g powdered gelatinWaterDark chocolate

2.1.

4.

5.

59

Steps:

1. Mix 100 grams of powdered gelatin to 600 gramsof cold water. Mix and allow to bloom/soften.Heat gelatin till liquid. Tilt plastic rectangularcontainer and add liquid gelatin to fill corner.Place in refrigerator until firm.

2. Remove solid gelatin from plastic container andplace in the interior of the polycarbonate demi-sphere mold.

3. Brush tempered dark chocolate around the gelatin.

4. Paint enough chocolate to hold the gelatin inplace.

5. Then pour tempered dark chocolate into the demi-sphere mold encasing the gelatin. Cast the moldand allow to cool.

6. Remove chocolate from the demi-sphere mold.

7. Then, remove the gelatin that is encased in thedemi-sphere.

8. Clean the edges once the gelatin is removed.

9. Join the two chocolate spheres and apply thegelatin sphere to your centerpiece.

3.

6.

7.

8.


Chocolate Love

CRÉME SOUS VIDE INCARAMEL JELLYServes 4

Custard Cream1 vanilla bean375 mL whipping cream6 large egg yolks50 g granulated sugar

Preheat a water bath to 190 - 195ºF (88 - 90ºC).Split vanilla bean lengthwise and, with the tipof a knife, scrape seeds into a medium bowl.Whisk in cream, egg yolks and granulated sugaruntil well combined. Using a ladle, divide creammixture evenly among four 175 mL ramekins.Cover each ramekin tightly with a sheet offood-grade, heatproof plastic wrap, makingsure that a perfect seal forms and no liquid canleak. Place each ramekin in a vacuum bag andseal following vacuum sealer directions. Placesealed bags in water bath and cook untilcustard, completely submerged while agitatingthe bath to prevent ‘hot spots’ until set, about50-60 minutes. Remove the ramekins bags fromthe hot water bath and cool in a cold water forat least 45 minutes. Refrigerate for at least 4hours (overnight is best).

2.

3.

1.

Wild Sweets

Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information,�visit www.dcduby.com


Sous-vide is a French term describing the operation of cooking food under

vacuum. This method cooks ingredients by heating them for an extended

period of time (sometimes over 24 hours), at relatively low temperatures

(usually around 140ºF / 60ºC). Because of these parameters, one must be

aware of the risk of contamination by botulinum, an anaerobic bacteria

that can grow in food in the absence of oxygen at lower temperature. To

protect against such risks, very precise temperature-controlled equipment

(thermo-circulators or steam ovens) are used to prevent food safety issues.

The main advantage of vacuum cooking is control of doneness, especially

when cooking proteins. However, fruits and vegetables also benefit from

this method as well as cooking of custards and other similar preparations

such as créme brûlée.

Part 1 - SOUS VIDE

4.

63

2.

3.

Caramel Jelly185 mL water100 g granulated sugar1.25 mL sodium citrate*1 Gelatin leaf, bloomed1.25 mL agar powder*

This recipe is tested with ARGUM and SOTRA Elements byDC DUBY, other agar / citrate may be substituted, but resultsmay differ.

Stir together 60 mL water, the sugar and SOTRA in a mediumheavy saucepan and cook to 338ºF (170ºC) and mixture ismedium dark caramel in color. Remove saucepan from theheat and, in remaining water. Return saucepan to mediumheat and cook, stirring, until caramel has dissolved and mixtureis smooth. Pour caramel into a tall narrow heatproof container.With an immersion blender, slowly add agar powder,continuing to blending until well combined. Pour caramelback into saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring, over highheat. Remove saucepan from the heat and stir in Gelatin Mixuntil well combined. Pour caramel onto a silicone mat intoa sheet of about 1/4-inch (0.625 cm) thickness. Let cool atroom temperature. Using a 3-inch (7.5 cm) cookie cutter, cut8 or 12 disks from caramel. Spoon custard in center of eachdisk, and top with another disk. Optionally, finish with somecaramel powder (I.e. CARADUST Elements)

4.1. 5.


Wild Sweets

Creative Cakes

Publisher’s Note: Elisa Strauss is the owner of ConfettiCakes and specializes in handsculpted delicious works ofart. Elisa and her creations have appeared on numerousnational television shows and in the pages of countlessinternational publications. A frequent competitor on theFood Network, Elisa’s first book, The Confetti CakesCookbook, was released in Spring 2007 and is in its fourthprinting, and her second book entitled Confetti Cakes for Kidsis due out in November. For more information, please visitwww.confetticakes.com.


1. Dye 2 pounds of the gum paste butter yellow.

HOT TIPS

* Since you will be making a large quantity of popcorn, keep the gumpaste you are not using covered at all times in plastic wrap. Rollout small amounts at a time to prevent the gum paste from dryingout. Ideally, you’ll make about 20 pieces at a time.

* Use kernels of real popcorn as your inspiration.

* Everyone loves the combination of sweet and salty, so if you wantto save time, use real popcorn instead of sugar popcorn.

* Make tiny popcorn buckets out of cupcakes so you do not haveto sculpt cakes or make as much popcorn. Just wrap one piece offondant around the cupcake’s outer edge and fill with popcorn.

Photography by Jordan Pique

One Day In Advance:Make the Popcorn KernelsFor each cake you need approximately 20 kernels ofsugar popcorn.

1.

Working with Fondant:

Photo by Alexandra Rowley

67

2. Using a paring knife, cut the rope at various intervals. Cut

twenty half-inch pieces, twenty quarter-inch pieces, and

twenty eighth-inch pieces. With greased hands, roll all the

pieces into balls. Repeat with 3 more ropes of gum paste.

3. Use the small end of a ball tool to create 1/4-inch-deep indents

in the half-inch balls. Create 1/8-inch-deep indents in the

smaller pieces. Use your fingers to give the edges a little

misshaping, pinching the sides into the shape of a human

ear. You do not want anything to look too perfect. Popcorn

comes in all shapes and sizes.

2. 2a. 2b.

3. 3a. 4.

4a. 5. 5a.4. Attach one half-inch ball and one quarter-inch ball using a dab of water,

sticking the smooth sides together and pointing the indents toward the

outside. Then attach one of the eighthinch pieces to the first two with

a dab of water to create one piece of popcorn. Repeat the process for the

rest of the popcorn. Feel free to add more balls to some kernels and just

one ball to others to create the irregular look youíd find in real popcorn.

5. With a dry brush, dust on a dab of yellow powder, to add a light shade

of butter. In a small dish, mix together water and brown food-coloring

powder to make a very subtle shade of brown and paint the centers of

all the indents to create the actual look of kernels.


Creative Cakes

Cut the cake into twelve 4 x 2 1/2-inchrectangles.

For each cake, place a dab of filling on eachcardboard rectangle and place a piece of cake

on top. Coat the first layer with 1/2 inch offilling. Top the filling with another piece of

cake, coat again with another 1/2 inch of filling,then place remaining piece of cake on top. Inthe end you will have 3 layers of cake with 2layers of filling. After the top layer of cake ison, push down slightly to secure the layers.Place the cakes in a freezer and chill for 1 hour.

1. Using a serrated knife, carve a gusset intothe sides of the cakes (this is the upside-down Y shape that is found on the sides ofbrown paper bags and shopping bags thatallows them to fold neatly). To assist in thecarving process, refer to a real shoppingbag. Crumb coat the cakes with a very thinlayer of filling.

2. On a surface dusted with cornstarch, rollout 1 pound of white fondant to

approximately 1/8 inch thick for each cake.

Make And Assemble the Mini Cakes

Using a ruler, cut two 4 1/2x 4 1/2-inch pieces and

two 3 x 4 1/2-inch pieces. Keep the cut piecescovered with a piece of plastic wrap and a dampcloth to prevent them from drying out whileyou roll out the fondant.

For each cake, place the two 4 1/2 x 4 1/2-inchpieces on the front and back sides of the cake,

making sure the fondant extends at least 1/4 inchabove the top of the cake for the bag’s opening.

(You will not be covering the top of the cake.

The popcorn will sit inside the rim you create.)

The fondant should also reach at least 1/4 inch

beyond the sides of the bag. Trim the fondant

along the bottom edge of the cake to create a

clean edge.

3. Brush the fondant that extends past the sides of

the cake with a dab of water, then place the 3 x

4 1/2-inch pieces against the sides of the cake.

Pinch the fondant pieces together at the seams

of the bag, and press it into the gussets that you

carved in step 4. If the seams do not look clean,

use a scissors to cut away the excess fondant.

1. 1a. 2.

3. 4. 5.

4. Dye the remaining 2 pounds of gum

paste red. On a plastic mat greased

with shortening, roll out the gum paste

to 1/16 inch thick and cut it into

fourteen 3/8 x 4 1/2-inch strips for each

bag. Moisten the backs of the strips

with a dab of water and attach them

to the cake at even intervals. Fold the

tops of the strips over the top edge of

the fondant. For even spacing, place

a ruler along the bottom edge of the

cake as your guide. Redcolored gum

paste tends to bleed, so try not to apply

too much water to the backs of the red

strips or the color may bleed into the

white background.

5. Use a pastry bag filled with Royal Icing

to adhere the popcorn pieces inside

the bag and along the outside edge.

Have a few pieces positioned to look

like they are literally ready to fall off

the edge, but use the icing to make

sure they don’t!


Litchi Macaron,Fresh Berries andStrawberry Juice

Plated Desserts

Publisher’s Note: As the former Executive Pastry Chef at theFrench Embassy, Washington, D.C. and a 10 year Ritz Carlton Groupveteran, Eric is the driving force (chef/owner) behind Visage Pâtisserieand the recently launched Macaron Pastry Training Centre in Bangkok(www.macaronbkk.com).

Litchi Cream250g litchi puree7g gelatin leaves300g whipped cream

1. Slice fresh litchi.

2. Soften the gelatin in cold water andmelt. Heat up 1/3 of the puree andgelatin. When dissolved add theremaining gelatin. Cool down andfold into the whipped cream.

3. Pipe into Flexipan® to half.

4. Add sliced fresh litchi and freeze.

Photography by Dragon Filipovic

1. 2.

3. 4.

71

Macaron125g almond powder225g icing sugar110g egg whites30g caster sugar5g egg white powder

1. Sift together almond powderand icing sugar.

2. Whip the egg whites and slowlyadd the sugar/white powder.

3. Add a few drops of foodcoloring.

4. Fold in the almond flour andicing sugar (both sifted).

5. Break down and pipe ontoSilpat®.

6. Bake at 150ºC for 12 minutes.

7. Allow complete cool downbefore removing from tray.

Raspberry Compote180g frozen raspberry pepin90g sugar

Mix together and cook until smooth consistency.

Strawberry Juice250g fresh strawberries50g sugar1/2 of lemon

1. Cut the strawberries in quarters.

2. Place strawberries in a stainless mixing bowl and coverwith plastic wrap.

3. Add the sugar and lemon and place atop a double boilerat low heat until juice completely comes out.

4. Strain and preserve the juice. Disregard the rest.

Assembly1. Place half of the macarons on the plate.

2. Unmold and place the litchi cream in the center.

3. Lean the donut shape macaron on the cream.

4. Fill with the raspberry compote.

5. Add fresh berries.

6. Place the strawberry juice on the side in a shot glass.

1. 2.

3. 4.


Plated Desserts

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pastry & baking volume 2 issue 5 2008

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