pastry & baking volume 3 issue 2 2008

Volume 2 Issue 3 2008

N O R T H A M E R I C A

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2 ISSUE

3 2008

W W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O M

Leslie Mackie – Macrina BakeryPastry Cup Qualifier

Three Color Cigarettes

W W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O M

2 Pastry & Baking North America

Letter From The Editor

The financial news is grim, but there are opportunitiesfor those in foodservice that keep their eye on the prizeand are able to adapt and reposition thereservice/business/skills.

Let’s face it, pralines, macarons, chocolate pots decréme, lavish wedding cakes and gluten free epis aren’texactly stables for the man on the street. And withevery passing day bringing more dismal news on theeconomic front, most people agree the remainder of2008 will be a challenging year for foodservice,especially pastry and baking.

The conventional wisdom holds that the affluentmarket is unaffected by the economic ups and downsthat hurt the middle-income consumer.† But today theaffluent consumer market is far more diverse andstratified than it historically ever has been and the bestway to protect your sales and customer base is to beproactive. Consider the following strategies whetheryou’re a shop owner, restaurant employee, hotel chefor wholesale baker:

Regards,

Joseph Marcionette

Editor-in-ChiefEmail: [email protected]

Challenges Ahead1. Lock in client loyalty.

Remember, you aren’t the only one facing economic hard times.What can you do to serve your best clients? Call and ask!

2. Make time for Face Time.It’s easy to slip into the habit of staying in the kitchen and doingbusiness by phone and email. Visit the front of the house andvisit with guests. Listen for opportunities where you can offera solution for their problems.

3. See a Need and Fill It.When global economies are hurting, sometimes luxuries arethe first to go. However, if there’s a need, there’s usually moneyto pay for a solution. Can you create products or add-on itemsthat fill a need?

4. Create package options.In hearty economic times, there’s more to go around. Whencompanies face downturns, slashing expenses is one of the firstthings companies do. To stand out from others, create packagedeals that offer lots of value-add for the dollar. This way youwill stand out as a good deal.

5. Do more for less.We aren’t talking about giving away the farm. We are talkingabout doing just slightly more for the same amount. If youwould normally tack on fees for an item, throw it in for free.Gifting ignites the law of reciprocity and loyalty follows.

6. Implement systems and marketing campaigns.Businesses that take a proactive approach will feel less blind-sided. Create your plan now and implement it. And whateveryou do, don’t cut back on sales and marketing initiatives!

Being proactive today will pay dividends tomorrow.


Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

10AsianPastry CupOnce again Team Singaporecaptured the Asian Pastry Cup andis headed to compete with the restof the world in Lyon.

46Chef in FocusAs chef/owner of Macrina Bakery,the place where Seattlitescongregate for fresh bakedgoodness, Leslie Mackie is taskeddaily with living up to her JamesBeard nominations, widelyacclaimed cookbooks and herglobal reputation as a true artisan.

58Chocolate LoveWorld renowned pastry chef andchocolatier extraordinaireNorman Love presents step by stepinstruction for three colorcigarettes.

6Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,

events and product updates for

the well informed professional.

18Regional ShowcaseJoin P&B NA on a tour of North

America and beyond as we

visit with and showcase talented

professionals who share their

favorite recipes.

36Sugar ArtsThe incomparable Ewald Notter

provides step-by-step instruction

and insight into his passion

and craft.

62Wild SweetsThe Dubys dazzle with their leading

edge approach to innovative

creations.

House Specials10

58

46

Published by

Synergy1 Group, Inc.

www.PastryNA.com

PUBLISHERSynergy1 Board of Directors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette

CREATIVE DIRECTORLisa Dinges

SENIOR EDITORCampbell Ross Walker

ASIA PACIFIC EDITORRachel Lee

NETWORK MANAGERMichael Ethier

SENIOR WRITERSDavid Martell, Laura Geatty

CORPORATE OFFICES:

North America

PO Box 291162

Port Orange, Florida

32129-1162

Email: [email protected]

Asia Pacific

32 Maxwell Road #03-07

White House Building

Singapore 069115

Fax: (65) 6323 1839

Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 3.All rights reserved. © under Universal International

and Pan American Copyright conventions. Thispublication is a creative work fully protected by all

applicable copyright laws, as well as bymisappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition

and other applicable laws.


Off The Wire

News, events andhappenings fromaround the region

TEAM USA DAZZLES CHICAGOTop US pastry chefs demonstrate technical andculinary skillsAt invitation-only event in Chicago

Valrhona and the Coupe de Monde de la Pâtisserie, aka, the WorldPastry Cup, introduced the members of TEAM USA at a private receptionthat took place Monday, May 19th at the Sofitel Chicago Water Tower.Over 100 guests made up of industry professionals, pastry chefs,chocolatiers and the media learned more about TEAM USA’s trainingprocess, tasted a variety of plated desserts and chocolate confectionsand watched the team put the finishing touches on two intricateshowpieces made of sugar and chocolate.

TEAM USA’s members are: Team Captain David Ramirez, ExecutivePastry Chef at The Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando, FL; Rémy Fünfrock,Executive Restaurant Pastry Chef at The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs,CO; Roy Pell, Executive Pastry Chef at The Phoenician, Scottsdale,AZ; and Team Alternate Jim Mullaney, Executive Chef at The CloistersHotel, Sea Island, GA. TEAM USA president is pastry consultant,En-Ming Hsu.

Off The Wire


The team has been meeting for monthly training sessionsat L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, MD since beingselected in fall 2007. The reception was the first opportunityfor the chefs to present to an audience of industry professionalsexamples of the showpiece techniques and types of dessertsthat they hope will impress the World Pastry Cup judges andcapture the gold in 2009. Coached by En-Ming Hsu and withthe skilled help of advisors Derek Poirier, Corporate PastryChef for Valrhona USA and pastry chef and instructor SylvainLeroy, Captain Ramirez and his team, in a matter of hours,created two showpieces and prepared two desserts: Kalamansiand Coconut Verrine and Nola, Valrhona Caraïbe ChocolatePassion Fruit Cake, the winner of the award for ‘Best ChocolateCake’ at the 2007 World Pastry Cup.

Guests included chocolatiers Michael Recchiuti of SanFrancisco’s Recchiuti Confections and Dylan Bigelow ofSeattle’s Fran’s Chocolates; Chicago pastry chefs Andrés Laraof NoMI restaurant at the Park Hyatt and Kate Milahus ofRoom 21, along with industry veterans such as Matt Nielsenof Nielsen-Massey Vanilla. Media covering the event includedChicago’s NBC 5 WMAQ-TV ‘News at 6’, Food Arts, Chef,PLATE magazine and food bloggers Pro Bono Baker, BlueKitchen and Leite’s Culinaria.

‘The chefs have been working non-stop and Chicago was a greatcity to showcase their talents and the impressive pieces they havebeen working on,’ said TEAM USA Captain Hsu. The event wasenthusiastically received by guests who gave the chefs encouragementand renewed enthusiasm for the upcoming months of gruelingtraining leading up to the competition in Lyon in January 2009. TerryBoyd, Blue Kitchen blogger, wrote, ‘So what are Team USA’s prospectsfor winning this year? Well, if the Chocolate Passion Fruit Cake wesampled is any indication, I’d say they’re pretty delicious — er, good.’


Off The Wire

Specialty Breads, Viennoiserie, and Artistic Design. Thecompetition takes place over the course of three days, with fourteams competing each day. A committee of judges then rankseach team based on overall performance.

The purpose of the competition is to gather artisan bakersfrom around the world to celebrate their profession, shareknowledge of artisan baking techniques, and reinstate the valueand restore the image of the artisan baking professional. Formore information on Bread Bakers Guild Team USA visitwww.bbga.org.

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is a non-profit allianceof professional bakers, farmers, millers, suppliers, educators,students, home bakers, technical experts, and bakery ownersand managers. It was formed in 1993 to shape the skills andknowledge of the artisan baking community through education.For more information, contact The Guild office at 412.434.0208or [email protected].

US bakers foster goodwill,promote baking educationand showcase bakingability.

Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008competed against the best bakers inthe world during the Coupe duMonde de la Boulangerie. SolveigTofte, head baker at Turtle BreadCompany in Minneapolis, MNrepresented the US in the Baguette

and Specialty Bread Category; Dara Reimers, an aspiring bakeryowner from Auburn, ME in the Artistic Design Category; andPeter Yuen, owner of La Patisserie P in Chicago, IL in theViennoiserie Category. Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008placed fourth in the competition. Yuen also ranked individually,placing in the top four within the Viennoiserie category.

The Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie is an internationalartisan bread baking competition held every three years in Paris,France. Also known as the World Cup or Olympics of Baking,the Coupe du Monde takes place at Europain — the worldbakery, patisserie and catering exhibition in Paris. Each teamconsists of three members representing the best artisan bakersfrom the 12 countries who qualified to compete.

Teams are given eight hours to produce a specific numberof baked goods for each of the three categories: Baguette and

Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie 2008 Results

1st FRANCE 607. 92 POINTS2nd TAIWAN 579. 49 POINTS3rd ITALY 578. 77 POINTS4th USA 578. 31 POINTS5th THE NETHERLANDS 551. 89 POINTS6th JAPAN 532. 83 POINTS7th POLAND 513. 84 POINTS8th SPAIN 511. 31 POINTS9th SWEDEN 488. 46 POINTS10th ARGENTINA 487. 53 POINTS11th TURKEY 472. 02 POINTS12th MEXICO 465. 47 POINTS

Bread Bakers Guild TeamUSA 2008 Ranks 4th inThe World

Bestchocolatebook in theworld!On Apri l 13th, 2008,Gourmand World CookbookAwards gave prizes for thebest new gastronomicpubl ica t ions f rom 90countries. The book “RamonMorató Chocolate”, written by renowned pastry chef,Ramon Morató, and published by Grupo Vilbo, had thegreat honor of receiving the award for Best ChocolateBook in the World 2007.

With it’s in-depth treatment of the technical andpractical issues associated with chocolate, this book hasbecome a must-have for chocolatiers and pastry chefsalike. It has over 600 pages containing 230 recipes and anabundance of step-by-step photos and techniques. ChefRamon’s book is presented in a bilingual, Spanish-Englishedition and is available around the world.

This year Chef Ramon will travel with the AulaChocovic team and the Export Department of Chocovicto China (Shanghai and Hangzhou) and the United States(Los Angeles, San Francisco and Las Vegas) to leadseminars on the chocolatier art. Chef Ramon humbly saysthis award is not just for the author, but for the entireteam that helped make this project possible: the graphicdesign of Xavi Vila, the photos of Francesc Guillamet, theteam at Aula Chocovic and the support of the publisherGrupo Vilbo.

WOW! Factor DessertsAdds to Individuals LineupEdmonton, Alberta, CANADA — WOW! Factor Desserts —a leading producer of high quality frozen desserts ñintroduced3 new products today. The new products are individual servingdesserts targeted to the foodservice industry.

“These new products compliment our robust line ofindividual serving products,” said Bryan Yaakov, Presidentof WOW! Factor Desserts. “These products make it easy forany foodservice operator to serve high quality, unique dessertswithout needing additional kitchen staff to handle thepreparation, this allows the operator to maintain profitablecost structures and add to their bottom line.”

Among the fantastic new individual desserts introducedby WOW! Factor Desserts are: the Chocolate Port Pedestal,Chocolate Brûlée Tulip and the Vanilla Berry Mousse. Fulldetails on the new product line can be found on the WOW!Factor Desserts web site at www.wowfactordesserts.com.

WOW! Factor Desserts are available throughout NorthAmerica through leading distributors, for more informationcall 1-800-604-CAKE. Factor Desserts is a leading supplier offrozen dessert products. Our goal is to provide our clients withthe highest quality products that allow them to increase theirbusiness profitability through increased sales and return visits!


Off The Wire

Paris Plaza Athénée Hotel under the supervision of ChristopheMichalak.

Second prize went to the mixed pair from Japan composedof Mr Shigeru Hosaka and Mrs Miya Fujimoto, both from theGrand Hyatt in Tokyo. Coming in Third was the team fromRussia who took advantage of a technical failure by the friendlyCanadian team.

With the strict oversight of Head Judge Pascal Niau (MOFPastry) along with the assistance of judges Angelo Musa (MOFPastry and World Pastry Champion 2003) and Philippe Rigollot(MOF Pastry and World Pastry Champion 2005) the competitionsought out the best and brightest and served as a platform to putforth a new, mixed team format.

Look forward to the second installation of Mondial Des ArtsSucres at Europain 2010.

The very first edition of the Mondial des Arts Sucrés was reallyheld during Europain 2008 trade fair in Paris.

During the three days of this confectionary art marathon,whose rules and guidelines were devised by DGF chefs, mixedteams from all over the world competed by putting forwarddessert tasting, chocolate bouchÈes, entremets, desserts, petitfours and impressive masterpieces made of sugar, chocolateand pastillage.

At the end of this relentless battle, the French teamcomposed of Jérôme De Oliveira and Alice Bardais won thefirst prize. Both of these young chefs work at the prestigious

International ConfectionaryArt Competition A Re alSuccess!

These products will make it possible for you to presentyour clients with the most exclusive creations in a costeffective manner that will enhance the bottom line andthe dining experience of your guests.

Like all Dobla decorations, these new additions to theChef’s Collection are made with only the very finestBelgium chocolate.

Extension of Dobla’sChefs CollectionAt the end of last year, Dobla introduced the new lineknown as the Chef’s Collection developed in collaborationwith some of the world’s top pastry chefs.

With that introduction, Dobla promised to surprisedessert professionals frequently with new shapes andconcepts. That’s why Dobla is proud to present to youthe following products.

9

Off The Wire

pastryscoop.com AnnouncesThe Winners Of The 2008Golden Scoop Awards!

The awards ceremony began with a panel discussion — PASTRYCHEFS AS AUTHORS: The Rise in Popularity of the DessertCookbook — hosted by Michael Batterberry, founding editorand publisher of Food Arts, with pastry chefs Karen DeMasco(formerly of Craft and Craftbar), Pichet Ong (P*ONG), JacquesTorres (Jacques Torres Chocolate), and Kate Zuckerman(Chanterelle). As the winners were announced, they were awardedengraved sterling silver champagne buckets, gifts from the awardssponsors, and a $1,000 cash prize. The chefs and their winningdesserts will also be featured on PastryScoop.com and in FoodArts magazine.

The 2008 Golden Scoop Awards were open to all pastry andbaking professionals. A team of pastry chefs and food industryprofessionals reviewed over one hundred submissions to selectfinalists in each of the five award categories. The top scoringcontenders in each category were invited to New York to presenttheir creations to the judging panel which consisted ofDominique Ansel, executive pastry chef, Daniel; Tina Casaceli,director of pastry and bread arts, The French Culinary Institute;Gabriella Gershenson, Eat Out editor, Time Out New York; andGary Tucker, senior editor, Food Arts.

New York, NY. June 24, 2008 — PastryScoop.com is proud toannounce the winners of the 2008 GOLDEN SCOOP AWARDS,which celebrate excellence, innovation, and creativity in thepastry arts. The awards were presented by Judiaann Woo, editor-in-chief of PastryScoop.com, along with Dominique Ansel,executive pastry chef of Daniel (New York City) and 2007 BestDessert Menu winner, before an audience of pastry chefs, media,and industry professionals at The French Culinary Institute inNew York City on June 23rd.

2008 GOLDEN SCOOP AWARD WINNERS:

Best Dessert MenuDESSERT MENURaphael Haasz, Executive Pastry Chef Café Boulud20 East 76th StreetNew York, NY 10021(212) 772-2600www.danielnyc.com/cafeboulud

Grand Marnier Most Innovative DessertPASSION FRUIT “TART”, SESAME,ARGAN OIL, MERINGUEAlex Stupak, Pastry Cheffwd~5050 Clinton SteetNew York, NY 10002(212) 477-2900www.wd-50.com

Best Dessert RevivalRHUBARB CRUMBLECatrine Oscarson, Pastry ChefMas (farmhouse)39 Downing StreetNew York, NY 10014(212) 255-1790www.masfarmhouse.com

Best ConfectionPRETZEL-COVERED SEA SALTED CARAMELRachel Zoe Insler, Chocolatier/OwnerBespoke ChocolatesNew York, [email protected]

Best Bakery RecipePANE SETTE GRANICristóbal Julio Guarchaj, Head Baker Grandaisy Bakery73 Sullivan StreetNew York, NY 10012(212) 334-9435www.grandaisybakery.com


RegionalShowcase

Founding

Official

Sponsor

In 2009, the 11th Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie will bring together international teams of brilliantly talented pastry chefs for a thrilling competition of culinary artistry and skill. Their sweet masterpieces, created live before a cheering audience, will be judged on taste, presentation and technique.

At the conclusion of the two day competition, the world’s best pastry chefs - the winners of the 11th Coupe du Monde - will be revealed!

The members of Team USA were chosen after an extensive application process culminating in final in-depth interviews with each finalist during the selection weekend sponsored by Valrhona at L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, MD. The team represents the most talented pastry chefs working in the US today. Each chef brings over 20 years of professional experience and all have excelled in pastry competitions encompassing desserts, chocolate, sugar work, ice-carving, pastry, and bread.

January 25th - 26th 2009

Eurexpo Lyon, France

En-Ming Hsu Coach

Award-winning Pastry Chef ConsultantLas Vegas, NV

David Ramirez Team Captain

Executive Pastry Chef at The Rosen Shingle Creek

Orlando, FL

Rémy Fünfrock Team Member

Executive Restaurant Pastry Chef at The Broadmoor Colorado Springs, CO

Roy Pell Team Member

Executive Pastry Chef at The PhoenicianScottsdale, AZ

Jim Mullaney Team Alternate

Executive Pastry Chef at The Cloisters Hotel

Sea Island, GA

Contact Information: Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in USA contact: En-Ming Hsu: 312 451 3715 - [email protected] Valrhona press contact: Deborah Kwan - DKPR: 415 586 4885 - [email protected]

2005 Bronze • 2001 WORLD PASTRY CUP CHAMPIONS • 1999 Bronze • 1997 Silver • 1995 Bronze


Regional Showcase

French Butter Pear Tart with Chestnut Mont Blanc

Chef/Owner

Sweet Solutions16 Fuller Ave.Swampscott, MAwww.mysweetsolutions.net Massachusetts

Judy Mattera

Serves 6

Zinfandel Poached French Butter Pears1 bottle of Zinfandel, 750 ml1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise andscraped2-3 strips grapefruit peel, no pith1/2 cup sugar6 French Butter pears, peeled, cored, andcut in half

1. In large saucepot, combine wine withall ingredients except pears.

2. Bring to a simmer, and when sugar hasdissolved, lower heat.

3. Add pears, (cored side up) and gentlypoach about 30 minutes or untiltender. Time needed to finish poachingwill depend on ripeness of pears.

4. Remove pears from liquid. Reducepoaching liquid by one-half. Cool.

5. Pour cooled poaching liquid over pearsand refrigerate overnight formaximum color and flavor.

6. Before baking, cut pears into thin slices.Reserve.

Chestnut Crust1/4 cup almonds, toasted, finely ground4 oz butter, unsalted and roomtemperature1/2 cup confectionery sugar1 egg3/4 cup flour1/2 cup chestnut flour1/2 tsp salt

1. Toast almonds in a 300ºF oven untillightly brown. Cool, process until finelyground.

2. In mixer fitted with paddle, creambutter with the confectionery sugar.

3. Add nuts, then egg.

4. Combine both flours with salt and addto above. Do not overmix.

5. Chill at least one hour.

6. Roll and fit into six 43/4” x 3/4” flutedtart molds with removable bottom.Chill.

Mont Blanc1 pound fresh chestnuts2 cups milk1/3 cup sugarPinch of salt1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise andscraped2-3 strips lemon peel

1. Soak chestnuts in lukewarm water for5 minutes to soften shells.

2. Make an X on flat side of each nutwith a small sharp knife.

3. Drop in boiling water. Cook about 10minutes. Drain; remove shell andbrown inner skin.

4. Combine milk, sugar, salt, vanillabean, and lemon peel in saucepot andheat to dissolve sugar.

5. Add peeled chestnuts and bring tosimmer. Cook for 45 minutes or untilchestnuts are soft and tender.

6. Remove vanilla bean pod and lemonstrips. Cool slightly.

7. Pass half amount through potato ricerand chill ìvermicelli” chestnut puree.Reserve remaining half for chestnutpaste.

Chestnut PasteReserved remaining half of chestnutpuree2 oz mascarpone1 tsp lemon zest

Place in food processor, all of the aboveand process until just incorporated. Youcan allow small pieces of chestnut toremain in the paste for crunch.Refrigerate if making ahead.

Assembly1. Preheat oven to 400ºF.

2. Place tart molds on a baking sheet.Prick dough with a fork.

3. Line with parchment paper and weightwith rice or beans. Bake for 10minutes.

Your Notes

4. Remove parchment paper andweights. Decrease heat to 350ºF andbake 5-7 more minutes.

5. Cool slightly. Spread bottom evenlywith chestnut paste.

6. Arrange sliced pears over the chestnutpaste.

7. Bake for 20 minutes.

8. Top with Chestnut Mont Blanc.

9. Serve with Créme Anglaise and/orreduction of poaching liquid to syrupstage.

17

French Butter Pear Tart withChestnut Mont Blanc


Regional Showcase

Mango Textures

Pastry Chef/Consultant

The Curry TouchShanghaiwww.currytouch.comTel: +86 138 1105 5381Email: [email protected]

Philadelphia/Kevin M. Curry

Mango Olive Oil Sponge225g almond paste250g eggs75g mango puree (imported)3g baking powder40g cake flour3g vanilla essence95g olive oil

1. Whip almond paste, sugar, & eggs till pale.

2. Add puree. Sift dry ingredients and foldin.

3. Add olive oil slowly.

4. Scale onto silpat and bake at 190°C for 10-12 minutes.

5. Cool down and store in freezer until readyto use.

Mango Papaya Pulp150g fresh mango pieces500g fresh papaya pieces2 no fresh lime zest2 no lime juice40g grenadine syrup

1. Blend all of the ingredients in a robotcoupe.

2. Add some mango juice to adjustconsistency.

3. Lastly, fold in lime zest.4. Make this item fresh everyday when

needed.

Mango Geleé275g mango puree275g sugar100g pectin50g glucose300g sugar15g tartaric acid solution

1. Slowly boil purees.

2. Gently whisk in sugar and pectin.

3. Whisk and use spatula to prevent burning.

4. Cook to 108°C.

5. Fill into flexi disk mold & freeze.

Mango Curry Yoghurt Meringue220g mango puree120g unsweetened yoghurt1.5g curry powder

8g bloomed gelatin80g Italian meringue

1. Warm puree, yoghurt, and curry powder.

2. Add bloomed gelatin.

3. Gently fold in meringue.

4. Pipe half into ring mold.

5. Insert frozen gelled mango disk.

6. Fill the rest of mold with the filling.

7. Place another silpat on top to keep flat.

8. Store in freezer until ready to use.

Italian Meringue50g egg white20g sugar40g water95g sugar

1. Whip egg white & 20g sugar softly.2. At same time, cook other sugar/water to

121°C.3. Pour slowly on side of meringue on low

speed.4. Whip until cool.5. Use immediately.

Mango Glaze300g mango puree100g mango juice10g pectin150g sugar15g bloomed gelatin

1. Slowly boil purees.2. Mix together sugar and pectin, & whisk

in.3. Whisk and use spatula to prevent burning.4. Boil for 2 minutes, strain glaze, & add

gelatin.

Massion Curd Recipe125g passion fruit puree250g mango puree80g sugar155g eggs125g egg Yolks105g soft unsalted butter1/2 no lemon zest

1. Bring puree’s to a boil.

2. Gently whisk eggs, yolks, & sugar together.

3. Pour boiled liquid slowly onto eggs & stir.4. Place bake on low heat and cook to 81ºC.5. Be sure to constantly stir to avoid burning.6. Strain immediately in bowl over ice bath.7. Stir with spatula and cool to 38ºC.8. Add soft butter & emulsify mix with hand

blender.9. Fill into small flexi domes and freeze.10. Unmold and spray with yellow chocolate

spray.11. Place back in freezer until ready to use.

Mango Ice Cream1000g milk600g cream300g skim milk powder300g sugar16g stabilizer120g powdered glucose700g mango puree (imported)65g lime juice

Method1. Bring milk and cream to a boil.

2. Mix stabilizer, sugars and milk powdertogether.

3. Gently whisk in and boil again.

4. Cool over ice bath for 3 hours.

5. Add mango and lime and let rest overnight.

6. Freeze next day.

Assembly1. Unmold mango yoghurt cream.

2. Sprinkle desiccated coconut on 1 side ofmango cream.

(this prevents sticking to the tray).

3. Warm mango glaze to 50°C.

4. Glaze frozen mango cream disk 1 hourbefore service.

5. Swirl a small ladle of mango papaya pulponto plate.

6. Cut olive oil sponge with round cutter.

7. Place glazed disk onto sponge.

8. Place velvet sprayed massion curd diskon top.

9. Make a quenelle of mango ice cream.

10. Put a small piece of chocolate tuile underice cream.

11. Raspberry with bamboo skewer forgarnish.

12. Final touch of gold.

Shanghai

19

Mango Textures


Regional Showcase

Almond Joy Brownie

Pastry Chef

Bacar Restaurant448 Brannan Streetwww.bacarsf.com San Francisco

Cheryl Burr

Fudge Brownie Base1 cup sugar4 1/2 oz butter1/4 cup light corn syrup1/4 cup water3/4 cup all purpose flour1/4 tsp salt14 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped2 eggs1 tbsp vanilla extract

Bring sugar, water and corn syrup to aboil. Pour over chopped chocolate andwhisk to combine and fully melt thechocolate. Whisk the flour and salt intothe chocolate mixture. Finally, whisk inthe eggs and vanilla. Pour into a greasedsheet pan, spread evenly and bake at 350ºFfor 10 minutes or until nearly set andcrackly skin has formed. Chill to roomtemperature, then put into the freezerwhile making the macaroon filling.

Macaroon Filling1 cup egg whites1 1/3 cup sugar1 lbs unsweetened, finely shreddedcoconutI vanilla bean, scrapped or 1/2 teaspoonvanilla extract1/2 tbsp, orange zest2 oz sour cream

Whisk together the whites and sugar. Heatover a bain marie until hot to the touch(approximately 120ºF.) Whip with anelectric mixer until stiff peaks form andthe meringue has cooled down. Fold in therest of the ingredients. Spread the mixtureover the top of the frozen brownie andbake at 350ºF until golden and set, around20 minutes. Chill to room temperature andthen refrigerate to firm it up.

Chocolate Glaze1 cup boiling water8 oz chopped dark chocolate2 tbsp butter1 tbsp corn syrup

Bring water to a boil. Pour the boilingwater over the chocolate, butter and cornsyrup, and then whisk to combine. Strain.

AssemblyWhen chilled and firm, cut the macaroonbrownie into 2-inch squares. Line themon a screen over a sheet pan. Top eachsquare with a candied almond and pourchocolate glaze over the brownie until itcompletely covers the sides and top in asmooth sheet. Allow glaze to set beforeremoving the squares from the screen.The bottom edges can be decorated withtoasted coconut or chopped candiedalmond.

*This dessert is great served with saltedcaramel sauce or créme anglaise.

Your Notes

21

Almond Joy Brownie


Regional Showcase

Pandan St. Honore with Star Anise Chouxand Longan

Assistant Pastry Chef

Cortez550 Geary St

San Francisco

Namthip Paine

Puff Pastry230g cold butter, cut into small cubes280g bread flour6g salt135g ice water

1. Combine flour and salt together in afood processor.

2. Add 60g butter, pulse briefly until themixture forms large crumbs.

3. Add ice water, pulse until the doughforms into a ball.

4. Transfer to a lightly floured surface,knead into a smooth ball.

5. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.

6. Flatten the remaining butter into asquare of 3/4” thick.

7. Roll out the dough in a cross shapethat’s large enough for the butter.

8. Place the butter in the center, foldover the sections of dough and flattenwith a rolling pin.

9. Roll, fold and turn the dough sixtimes, chill for 30 minutes betweeneach rolling, a total of 3 hours.

10. Roll out an 8” circle and place on abaking sheet, prick all over and chillfor 30 minutes.

Choux Paste95g bread flour3g salt6g sugar55g unsalted butter60g water60g milk2 eggs2 star anise1 egg, for egg wash5g milk, for egg wash

1. Sift the flour, salt and sugar together.

2. Heat the butter, water, milk and staranise over low heat until the buttermelts, increase the heat and bring toa full boil. Discard star anise.

3. Add the flour mixture, remove fromthe heat and stir until the mixtureforms a smooth paste. Allow to coolfor 5 minutes.

4. Add 2 eggs, one at a time, beat untilsmooth.

5. Use a pastry bag and plain tip #6 topipe a broad spiral onto the puffpastry base, brush with egg wash andbake at 400ºF for 25-30 minutes.

6. Pipe small choux buns on a separatebaking sheet and bake at 425ºF for 10minutes, then at 350ºF for 5-10minutes.

Créme Chibouste270g milk4 egg yolks250g sugar30g cornstarch3 sheets gelatin5g pandan extract4 egg whites90g water

1. Make a pastry cream with milk, eggyolks, 50g sugar and cornstarch.

2. Bloom the gelatin, then whisk intothe pastry cream. Add the extract andlet it cool.

3. Use the remaining sugar, water andegg whites to make an Italianmeringue.

4. Fold the meringue into the pastrycream. Let it set for 10 minutes.

5. Use 1/4 of the cream in a pastry bagand plain tip #3 to fill each choux bun.

6. With the remaining cream, use apastry bag and Saint Honore tip topipe over a puff pastry base.

Caramel & Spun Sugar400g sugar120g water14g glucose

Your Notes

1. Cook sugar, water and glucose to320ºF.

2. Remove from the heat and shock inan ice-bath for 30 seconds to halt thecooking process, then remove.

3. Dip the filled choux buns in thecaramel. Place on a baking sheet toharden.

4. Gripping two forks back-to-back inone hand, dip into the remainingcaramel and flick back and forth overthe rolling pin.

5. Gently gather up the strands and foldthem into a “spun sugar” ball.

Assembly1. Dip the base of each choux bun into

the caramel and place on the pastryborder.

2. Top the créme chibouste with longan.

3. Decorate your Saint Honore with thespun sugar and star anise.

23

Pandan St. Honore withStar Anise Choux and Longan


Regional Showcase

Spicy Triple Gingerbread

Pastry Chef

One Market Restaurant1 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA

www.onemarket.comSan Francisco

Patti Dellamanico-Bauler

Serves 4

2 1/2 cup all-purpose flour2 tsp cinnamon3/4 tsp cloves1/2 tsp fresh nutmeg1/2 tsp ground allspice1/2 tsp cardamom1/2 tsp ground ginger1/2 tsp baking soda1/4 tsp baking powder1/2 tsp salt8 oz unsalted butter, room temperature1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed1/2 cup sugar2 extra large eggs, room temperature1 cup molasses3 tbsp peeled, fresh grated ginger2 tbsp minced, crystallized ginger1/2 cup whole milk, room temperature

1. Sift all dry ingredients except salt.

2. Cream butter alone for one minuteuntil light colored. Add sugar, darkbrown sugar and salt. Cream until lightand fluffy.

3. Add eggs, one at a time and beat for20 seconds after each egg. Scrape thebowl while beating the mixture.

4. Mix in molasses, continue to scrapethe bowl. Do not be concerned if themixture looks curdled, it will smoothout when the flour is added.

5. Add sifted dry ingredients, crystallizedginger and fresh ginger; mix untilcombined. Add milk. When the milkis almost combined, switch to a handspatula. Mix well, making sure nostreaks are present.

6. Pour into a well greased baking pan.Bake in a 350ºF oven until the centersprings back when press with the backof a fork or a toothpick comes outclean.

Your Notes

25

Spicy Triple Gingerbread


Regional Showcase

Gateaux Exotique

Owner/Chef

Patisserie La Splendeur2-1-20 Minamikugahara OhtakuTokyoTel : +81 3-3752-5119

JapanHiroshi Fujikawa

Yield: 27 cakes

Biscuit Joconde250g almond flour250g icing sugar300g egg215g egg white50g sugar50g butter70g flour

1. Whip the almond flour, icing sugarand egg.

2. Whip the egg white with the sugar.

3. Mix 1 and 2.

4. Add the melted butter and the shiftedflour.

5. Pour onto the baking paper. Bake at280°C for 4-5 minutes.

6. After cooling down, cut into 9 x 6cmoval shape.

Tea Sutroizel150g butter140g sugar2g vanilla sugar3g salt150g almond flour150g flour5g Earl Grey tea powder

1. Mix the softened butter, sugar, vanillasugar and salt.

2. Add the shifted almond flour, flourand tea powder.

3. Keep in the refregerator.

4. Roll out at 2-3mm. Cut into 9 x 6 ovalshape.

5. Bake at 170°C for about 10 minutes.

Mascarpone Cream20g sugar180g cream 40%500g mascarpone cheese300g orange puree

1. Whip the cream with the sugar.

2. Add mascarpone cheese and orangepuree.

3. Pipe the cream on the plastic sheet asthe shape of 9 x 6cm ovale with 18mmdiametre piping tip. Freeze.

Exotique Jelly1320g Delice Exotique puree35g silver gelatine sheet35g sugar

1. Heat the puree with sugar.

2. Add the bloomed gelatine.

Nappage Exotique350g Absolu Cristal glaze50g syrup (water 25g : sugar 25g)25g passion fruits puree25g Delice Exotique puree65g glucose

1. Mix all the ingredients.�

2. Heat until 50ºC.�

3. Mix with the burmix.

Assembly�1. Pour the Extoique Jelly into the Egg

shape Flexipan mold (10 x 7.5cm).

2. Add the frozen mascarpone creamand biscuit joconde. Freeze.

3. Glaze the nappage exotique.�

4. Put on the sutroizel and finish withlemongrass, passion fruits seeds,orange etc.

Your Notes

Courtesy All Japan Confectionery AssociationFrom PCG Magazine

27

Gateaux Exotique


Competition

Team Singapore wins 2008 Asian Pastry Cup represented byChef Hoi Kuok I, Chef Ng Chee Leong and

Jury Member Chef Pang Kok Keong.

ChampionsOnce Again

29

resident-Founder of the World Pastry Cup, MrGabriel Paillasson, crowned the TeamSingapore the winner of the Asian Pastry Cup2008 on 24 April at the end of an exciting,

Results

tense and emotional two-day competition. The teams fromTaiwan and China were awarded the second and third prizesrespectively as hundreds of supporters cheered them on.

“Due to the fantastic work by the participants, I will beselecting four top teams instead of three,” Mr Paillassonannounced unexpectedly at the awards ceremony as theaudience in the crowded arena clapped enthusiastically. Theinitial intention was to give only the top three teams the chanceto compete at the World Pastry Cup in Lyon, France next year.The talented team from Malaysia was awarded the speciallyadded fourth prize. A warm sense of camaraderie and prideswept across the arena as the audience, filled with ardentsupporters of the pastry industry, whooped for joy in responseto Mr Paillason’s decision.

The Singapore team, represented by Chef Hoi Kuok I andChef Ng Chee Leong, captivated the 10-member professionaljury with their plated dessert, an exquisite milk chocolatesphere filled with homemade hazelnut praline and raspberrygranita, their “Bliss Chocolate Entremet” chocolate cake, whichalso won the “Best Chocolate Cake” special prize, and their“Encounter” – themed sugar and chocolate showpieces.

All four creations earned extensive praises and high scoresfor their taste, texture, presentation and originality. It is thesecond time Singapore has won top honors at the AsianPastry Cup.

“It is a triumph for Singapore to come in first amidst suchstrong competitors. The team did very well,” said jury memberChef Pang Kok Keong.

Prize Country

Singapore

Taiwan

China

Taiwan

Singapore

Malaysia

Taiwan

Gold APC Trophy

Silver APC Trophy

Bronze APC Trophy

Best Chocolate Showpiece

Best Chocolate Cake

Best Plated Dessert

Best Chocolate Showpiece

Special Prize Country

MauritiusBest Team Spirits

SingaporeMedia Prize

Sri LankaSingapore PastryAlliance Prize

Team Taiwan

Team China


Competition

“I am very happy and honored that we have won. It was a trulyexciting competition, every team was excellent,” said Chef Hoi, teamcaptain of the Singapore team. “I have only three years of experiencein pastry. To many experienced pastry chefs, I am only a beginner.So I am proud to have the golden opportunity to represent Singaporein World Pastry Cup 2009!”

This second edition of the biennial competition, held inconjunction with the biennial Food&Hotel Asia 2008, attracted theparticipation of 10 Asian teams (up from seven at the inauguralAsian Pastry Cup 2006). This year, teams from China, India,Indonesia, Malaysia, Mauritius, The Philippines, Singapore, SriLanka, Taiwan and Vietnam competed for the top spots.

“This year at the second Asian Pastry Cup, we have theparticipation of 10 Asian nations and saw so many talented pastrychefs in action. I am heartened that the event is growing inimportance. I would like to thank the organizers and generoussponsors who have made the APC a success,” said Mr Paillasson.

A new visual identity for the APC was launched this year. Theegg marks the birth of the new and also represents the one ingredientthat remains a common theme across many pastry cultures. Thegold swirls are an Asian design element that alludes to the exchangeand blending of new ideas.

The top four Asian teams will now prepare to compete withteams from all over the world at the prestigious World Pastry Cup2009 in Lyon, France on 25 and 26 January 2009 where they willmeet and vie against teams from France, Japan, Korea, Spain, Italy,and Belgium for the coveted award. Former Pastry World Championsinclude three Michelin star pastry chef, Christophe Michalak (2005);Pascal Molines (1999); and acclaimed Belgian chocolatier PierreMarcolini (1995).

Malaysian Showpieces

31

Indonesian Sugar Piece

Mr Philippe Rigollot, the pastry chef at Anne-SophiePic’s three Michelin-starred Maison Pic and part of the PastryWorld Champion team in 2005, made a distinguishedappearance as a special guest at APC 2008 courtesy of theWorld Gourmet Summit 2008. “I am delighted to be here,it reminds me of my wonderful experience at WPC a fewyears back. I wish for the selected countries an unforgettableexperience in Lyon,” he said.

Founded by Valrhona and Ravifruit in collaboration withSingapore Exhibition Services and the Singapore PastryAlliance, the Asian Pastry Cup was conceptualised with theaim to promote fine pastry art in Asia through a competitiveplatform. An Asian partner to the World Pastry Cup held inLyon, France biennially, it is the official competition at whichthree Asian countries are pre-selected to compete at theinternational event.

The APC, first held in 2006, is now in its second yearrunning. The participating teams prepared and presentedtheir best pastry creations live in front of an audience andthe esteemed judging panel, helmed by Mr Gabriel Paillasson,President-Founder of World Pastry Cup.


Competition

IndonesiaIndia

PhilippinesMauritius

VietnamTaiwan

China

Malaysia

Sri Lanka

33

Team Singapore’s “Bliss Chocolate”


Competition

China MauritiusIndia

Indonesia SingaporePhilippines

Sri Lanka VietnamTaiwan

35

Team Malaysia’s Winning Plated Dessert


Trigger FishSugar Arts

Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert inmodern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitorand instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of PastryArts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)

Sugar Recipe1000g Sugar400g Water200g Glucose10 drops of tartaric acid(boil to 160ºC)

EquipmentBulb Pump(wood or metal tube)MatGlovesHair DryerHeat SourcePotSpatulaMarble

1. Using your hands, form the pliable sugar into a sphereby folding it several times in order to get an eventemperature throughout. If you blow sugar with anuneven temperature, the sugar will always extract moreon the warmer side. The only way to correct this is byusing your hand to cool down the warmer parts.

2. Carefully push a short hole into the sphere. Try not tocool down the sphere by handling it too much.Cut off any excess sugar toward the base.

1.

2.

37

3. 4.

6. 7.

5.

8.

9.3. Slide the tubing attachment a short distance into the ball of sugar. Press

the sugar onto the tube securely, so the air does not escape from the sides.

4. Pump air into the sphere and expand the sugar evenly. Elongate the sphereas you blow air into the sugar. (If the sugar is very warm you should notblow too much air in at one time. The sugar will collapse from not beingable to hold its shape). Carefully form the sugar into a “drop shape”. Formthe front of the fish’s nose as you elongate the body of the fish.

5. Flatten the piece of blown sugar on your leg so the bottom side does notget too cold. This will allow for a longer working time before the sugarget cold and brittle.

6. Once you achieve the desired shape, cool the sugar in front of a hair dryerto hold it’s shape.

10.7. Once the body of the fish holds its shape, warm the end piece,

the tail, with a burner or blow torch very carefully.

8. With some caution, peel the end piece of the sugar from theblowing tube. Release the sugar from the blowing tube usinga pair of scissors. This end piece will be used to form the tailof the fish. If there are any discolorations left behind in thesugar from the blowing tube, remove them using the scissors.

9. If you don’t have enough sugar to form the tail add an additionalpiece of sugar. Build the fish tail by kneading a piece of sugarback into the existing tail.

10. Re-warm and flatten the tail piece with your hands. Cut offthe end piece with a pair of scissors to get a clean finish.

5133

- w

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dobla.comDOBLA BV, The Netherlands

Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com

Recipe made by

Kenny Kong, Pastry Chef of Swissôtel ‘The Stamford and Raffles’, Singapore.

Ramon used the Dobla Diablo square to decorate.

INNOVATION IN CHOCOLATE

Associate member of:

Dobla is official sponsor of the World Pastry Team Championship 2008.31 August - 1 September 2008, Nashville, USA

WORLD PASTRY TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP

11. 12.

14. 15.

13.

16.

17.39

Sugar Arts

11. Score the fish tail with a pair of scissors to getthe fin-like appearance of a real fin.

12. The eyes of the fish can be painted or molded.To mold the eyes, use a round piece of red sugarand flatten it out on a table. Take a small roundedpiece of black sugar and press it into the centerof the red piece of sugar. This technique willcreate depth and give a life-like hue to the fish’sface. To attach the eye, warm the back side of thesugar and firmly fasten the eye to the fish.

13. Use air brush quality food dye to color the fish’sbody. Dip the brush end into the food color andpaint the gills on the side of the fish.

14. Carefully re-warm the casted support with a blowtorch. Slightly melt the support to attach the fishsecurely. If the support is very cold use a hairdryer to re-warm it carefully. Strong temperaturedifferences may cause the support to crack andbreak.

15. Pull the fins like a small piece of ribbon and cutit into the desired shape while the sugar is stillwarm and pliable. You will need six fins in varioussizes, two for the side of the fish, three for thetop fins and one for the base fin.

16. It is best if you attach the fins to the fish’s bodywhile the fins are slightly warm. This way youmay change or correct the shape of the fins.

17. Once the fish is complete, color the fish bodyusing an air brush with yellow, red and bluecolors. Start off by spraying the body of the fishwith yellow. Follow with the red air brush colorand finish with blue on the tops of the fins. Feelfree to spray the fish with any color you desire.Be careful not to spray too much color becausethe liquid food color will bead on the surfaceand bleed into the other colors.

from television to the printed page to the all-encompassing

Internet, our brains are becoming ingrained (pardon the pun)

with whole grains... and rightfully so! The facts are clear and

indisputable: they contain more fiber, vitamins, and minerals

than their refined counterparts. They are simply better for your

body, period. There are simple changes you can make to increase

the amount of whole grains in your diet, one of the easiest being

to use more whole wheat flour when baking. That being said, I

am amazed that the mention of whole wheat bread still conjures

up in the minds of many an image of a dense, heavy, bitter loaf

of bread. With the following formula, I hope to change the mind

of anyone that still holds such a perception.

Part of my personal baking philosophy includes that every

formula should serve more than one purpose or product. In fact,

I always challenge my students at Johnson & Wales University to

use half dough in the formula to make the required product, and

then use simple changes to transform the remaining half into

something completely new and different. It is amazing to see what

they come up with! So, in keeping with this approach, I am including

some alternate variations above and beyond a wholesome and tasty

loaf of bread. Give it a try and see if I can make you a believer in

this very tasty and easy-to-make Whole Wheat Bread.

hole grains: Surely by now you know that

experts say we should eat more of them. It

seems that everywhere you look these days,W Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair forthe International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson &Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has beenrecognized both nationally and internationally with numerousawards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published twoDVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book,Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008.More information on Ciril and his work can be found on hisweb site: www.breadhitz.com.


Whole WheatBread

Artisan Baker

1220 West Nickerson Street, Seattle, WA 98119866-ZOKA-NOW (866-965-2669)

I

Named 2008 Macro Roaster of the Yearby Roast Magazine

Home of Barista Champions

Trust your coffee program to the proven experts:

Serve perfection. Artisan pastries deserve artisan coffee.


Artisan Baker

1. In a 20 quart mixer, mix all ingredients except seeds on 1st speed

for 4 minutes.

2. Increase speed to 2nd speed and mix an additional 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Add seeds (optional) on 1st speed until completely incorporated

into the dough.

4. Place dough into an oiled proofing container, cover with lid and

let rest for 45 minutes.

5. Give the dough one stretch and fold, cover, and let rest an

additional 45 minutes.

6. Scale dough into 850g increments, shape into loaves, and place

immediately into oiled loaf pans or Panibois® baking forms.

Variation: Whole Wheat Rolls

• Divide dough into 90 gram units.

• Work round and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover,

and let proof for 45-60 minutes.

• Bake at 450-480ºF in a deck oven for 12-15 minutes until a nice

golden brown crust develops.

BigaIngredients Metric Pounds %

Bread flour 750g 1# 10.4 oz 100

Water (70ºC recommended) 450g 15.8 oz 60

Instant yeast 6g .21 oz .8

1. Mix all ingredients on 1st speed for 3 minutes until a smooth

consistency.

2. Place the biga in an oiled container large enough for it to triple

its size.

Note: After mixing, the biga will seem dry and feel tight and

somewhat rubbery. This is normal; DO NOT add any additional

water. Allow the biga to stay out at room temperature for 2 hours

before using. (If you wish to hold the biga to use for the next day,

degass the biga with your hands and refrigerate overnight.)

Final Weight 6700g 14# 12.3 oz

Ingredients Metric Pounds %

Whole wheat flour 2750g 6# 100

Water (80ºC recommended) 1935g 4# 4.2 oz 70

Honey 260g 9.1oz 9.4

Instant yeast 8g .28 oz .29

Salt 69g 2.4 oz 2.5

Biga 1206g 2#10.5 oz 43

Sunflower seeds*, roasted 200g 7 oz 7.2

Pumpkin Seeds*, roasted 200g 7 oz 7.2

Sesame seeds*, roasted 200g 7 oz 7.2

* Optional ingredients

Variation: Savory Filled Rounds

• When making savory filled rounds, it is best not to use seeds in

the dough.

• Divide the dough into 90g units, work round, place on a

parchment-lined sheet pan.

• Cover and allow to proof until the dough doubles in size (around

60 minutes).

• Brush the round with a savory blend of herbed olive oil (your

choice of salt, pepper, herbs, and spices) and press an opening

into the center with your fingers.

• Fill with the desired filling, such as soft herb cheese and roasted

vegetables or pesto sauce and sautéed chicken bits.

• Bake for 15-20 minutes at 450-480ºF in a deck oven until desired

color is achieved.

Variation: Whole Wheat Pizzas

• When making pizzas, it is best not to use seeds in the dough.

• Divide the dough into pieces between 220-350 grams, depending

on the size of the pizza desired.

• Shape them round and place on an oiled sheet pan. Cover with

plastic and chill (dough can be kept up to 24 hours in refrigerator.)

• Roll out with a rolling pin and top with desired toppings. Bake

pizzas at 450-480ºF for about 7-10 minutes each.

7. Place in a protected environment (like a proof box) and allow

dough to proof an additional 90 minutes.

8. Bake at 420ºF in a convection oven for 20 minutes with 15

seconds of steam.

9. Drop oven temp to 380ºF and bake an additional 20-30 minutes.

10. Remove from pan and cool completely on cooling rack.

43

2.1. 3.

4.

6.

5.1. Stretch and fold adds strength and balances

out the dough temperature during thefermentation process.

2. Shape the dough immediately after dividing.For a decorative effect, roll the top surfaceon a damp cloth, then roll the wet surfaceinto whole rolled oats.

3. Place the shaped dough into the desiredcontainer. Shown is a Panibois® mold(size #6).

4. Place the shaped loafs in a warm andprotected humid environment. Check theloaf’s readiness by pressing your fingers onthe surface; the dough should feel relaxed.

5. Allow the whole wheat bread to coolcompletely before cutting.

6. To make rolls (also first step in makingsavory filled rounds): divide the dough andimmediately shape into final form, place ona parchment-lined sheet pan, and proofuntil they have doubled in size.

7. Brush the rounds with a savory oil, openthe center cavity with your fingers, and fillwith desired toppings.

8. Tasty and savory filled rounds are baked ina hot deck oven (480ºF) until the desiredcolor is achieved (about 15 minutes).7. 8.


Artisan Baker


Chef in Focus

Leslie Mackie is a busy lady. As chef/owner of Macrina Bakery,the place where Seattlites congregate for fresh baked goodness,

Leslie is tasked daily with living up to her James Beard nominations,widely acclaimed cookbooks and her global reputation as a true artisan.

By Campbell Ross WalkerPhotography by S I G

neighborhood of Belltown, you can see people bustling in andout with bulging sacks of everything from the succulently savoryto the sinfully sweet.

With a broad spectrum of bakery fare, Macrina offers its patronsa full lunch menu with savory breads, sandwiches and soup, tastybakery goodies such as cookies, slices of cakes and mini tarts. Addsome eye opening, freshly ground espresso and a dedicated,passionate staff and you soon realize all the accolades are rightlydeserved.

Inside the bakery, you find a quaint space; music lightly playsover the din of customer chit chat and the bustle of a bakery inaction. Customers line up and begin slinging out their orders whileMacrina’s friendly staff attends to them with a smile.

The woman behind Macrina’s success is owner/baker/pastrychef Leslie Mackie. Originally from Rose City, Oregon, Leslie hasworked on both coasts in a variety of roles and outlets but decidedto call Seattle home in early 90’s and took the plunge intoentrepreneurship with the launch of Macrina in 1993. Leslie hasreceived several nominations for the “Outstanding Pastry ChefAward” from the James Beard Foundation, which honors food andbeverage industry professionals in America for their achievements.

One of the highlights of Leslie’s career was her appearance onJulia Child’s “Baking with Julia” television series and her inclusionin the companion cookbook. Featured in numerous magazinesand an active member in the Bread Bakers Guild of America andLes Dames d’Escoffier, Leslie got here start at the California CulinaryAcademy in San Francisco.

The day we visited with Leslie, she balanced putting the finishingtouches on a chocolate cake, ordering ingredients from her suppliers,managing the staff and time sheets while answering our questionsand providing insight into Marcina. Quite the multi-tasker!

acrina Bakery is one of Seattle’s most popularartisan bakeries. As you approach the storefrontsituated on 1st Avenue in the hip, upscale


Chef in Focus

P&B NA: How did you realize your culinary calling?LM: I started out at Restaurant Management School. However,when I graduated at 20 years of age, I was too young to launchmy career. In Oregon, you have to be 21 to manager arestaurant. With some time on my hands, I decided to travelto Europe for 2 months and have a look around. Soon, Irealized the necessity to round out my education. At thatpoint, I didn’t know much about cooking, so I started tastinglots of varied cuisine. After awhile, I could distinguish adelicious Hollandaise but I was frustrated in not knowinghow these sauces and associated dishes were created. That iswhen I decided to go to culinary school.

Even after starting my classes, I didn’t foresee a life asa chef. What I really aspired to be was a cateringcoordinator. I loved event planning, parties and that sortof stuff and thought a deeper understanding of the creativeprocesses would be a huge benefit.

However, after graduation, my Dad thought itimportant that I get practical, real world experience. Hewas right so I applied and was very fortunate to land a jobat Ernie’s Restaurant in San Francisco. The position waslike an apprenticeship which was great because I got towork all of the stations and really get a taste for the backof the house. I stayed there 1 year (1982) and have beenin the kitchen ever since. I love it!

How did you migrate over to the sweet side of themenu?To make a long story short, after Ernie’s, I worked at theWestin San Francisco. From there, I moved to Boston andmy previous chef at Ernie’s suggested I look up his formersous chef, Lydia Shire, who happened to be in town andwas the chef at the Bostonian Hotel. I did just that andwent by for lunch and was blown away by the food. Iintroduced myself to Lydia and soon thereafter I startedworking for her at the Bostonian. One day, they neededhelp in the pastry kitchen and I got a chance to work withtheir chef and that was it. Hooked!.

The pastry chef ’s name was Killian and he is extremelyserious about what he does. His technique, style andcombinations are beyond words. He has an excellent paletteand has amazing integrity for his work. I couldn’t havestarted and learned from a better person. He showed methat something simple, if done perfectly, can make apowerful impact on your guests.


Chef in Focus

Touching on palette, what would you say is yourapproach to flavor?I think balance is really important and learning this at ayoung age was a blessing. I say this now and look back onmy early days in hot cooking and see how important it wasto learn how to develop flavors; which is exactly what youdo with bread. If you launch right into being a pastry chefyou kind of miss out on the opportunity to do that. In thesavory world, you are always developing flavors and learninghow to layer flavors and textures. I feel having worked insavory has enhanced my approach to pastry and especiallybread baking.

I’d like to think my approach is simple but elegant. Iwork towards building and developing flavors rather thanjust adding multiple flavors for an immediate result. I enjoydeveloping flavor through starters and fermentation to geta variety of different tastes and textures.

What brought you to Seattle?I was in Boston and I then moved out to Los Angeles tohelp open a hotel with Lydia Shire. I consider myselfextremely fortunate to have worked with Lydia. She isbrilliant. Lydia is such a creative chef and such an inspirationin terms of going to the source or going to the origin of arecipe. This is very important.

So, I am in Los Angeles and the opening is a success andeveryone is now leaving to return to Boston and open Lydia’srestaurant, Biba. I wanted to be closer to home since all myfamily is out here BUT I didn’t want to move all the wayback again. I just wasn’t ready to return to Portlandconsidering I grew up there and I already worked in all thesegreat cities. I needed something a little more metropolitan.Don’t get me wrong, Portland is wonderful, but after readingarticles on Seattle I decided this was where I wanted to be.


Chef in Focus

I visited Seattle, walked around Pike Place and discoveredGrand Central Baking. It happened to be the first year theystarted doing rustic European breads. I dropped off a resumeand was working there within a few weeks.

It was a very exciting time to be at Grand Central Bakingas the Seattle bread revolution was kicking into high gear. Backthen, we had lines out the door and they were selling Comoloafs that were not even made yet!

When did you decide to launch Macrina Bakery?Macrina opened in 1993 in a very small location. At the time,although very passionate about bread and the business, I wasdetermined that operating the bakery would be a “part of mylife” and not an ever present, dominate force in my life. Ienvisioned 1 month off per year for travel and vacation andstaying small without too much hassle or headache. Thosepre launch ideals lasted about 3 minutes after we opened thedoors. Today, it’s a 25 hour a day passion that I would notchange for the world.


Chef in Focus

Tell us about your book: Macrina Bakery & CafeCookbook.Andrew Cleary, general manager at the time, partneredwith me and we worked with Sasquatch Publishing. Whatfun! We published in 2003 with the idea that the bookwould tell the story of our first 10 years of business andshed light on the inner workings at Macrina.

Although extremely rewarding, it was not easy writingthe book. The most time consuming task was altering ourrecipes for the “at-home baker” but this provided anexcellent opportunity to really go over the recipes and finetune them so they were perfect. To me, publishing was likechildbirth with all the associated pain but when it’s overand published, it is well worth the effort!

For me the success of the cookbook is not measuredin the amount of sales you get but in the people havingsuccess with your recipes and loving the recipes.

How do you feel about your 2007 nomination for the“Outstanding Pastry Chef Award” from the JamesBeard Foundation?Oh wow, well, I feel incredibly honored to even benominated. There are so many talented people who area part of James Beard. To be in their company is fantastic.

We do simple and elegant things here at Macrina andI think most important is the quality of the bakery isconsistent day to day. The fact that people in New Yorkeven know we exist is remarkable.

Considering James Beard grew up in Portland and Iam from Oregon makes my nomination ever more special.My biggest focus moving forward is to honor thenomination by maintaining our product quality and qualityof service here at Macrina.

Food bridges the gaps and brings us all together.


Chef in Focus

Combine butter, sugar and brown sugar in a bowl of a standmixer. Using the paddle attachment, mix on medium speedfor 5 to 8 minutes. The mixture will become smooth and palein color. Add eggs, one at a time, making sure each egg is fullymixed into the butter before adding the other. After the lastegg is incorporated, add the vanilla and mix for 1 minute.Scrape down the sides of the bowl and mix for another 30seconds to make sure all the ingredients are fully incorporated.Remove the bowl from the mixer.

Alternatively add small amounts of the flour mixture and thebuttermilk to the batter, mixing with a wooden spoon. Thelast addition of flour will be with the tossed fruit. Fold gentlyto incorporate all ingredients making sure to evenly distributethe fruit.

Spoon batter into prepared bundt pan, filling 2/3 the pan. Bakeon the center rack of the oven for 1 hour and 30 minutes oruntil the top is golden brown. Check the center of the coffeecake with a skewer. It will come out clean when the cake isfinished. Let cool in pan for 45 minutes.

Loosen the sides of the cake with a sharp knife. Place a servingplate, upside down on the top of the cooled bundt pan andinvert the pan to remove the cake.

This delicious coffee cake needs no additional glaze. Powderedsugar dusted over with a few fresh flowers will jazz up thepresentation.

Fresh Fruit Coffee Cake

Try using one variety of fruit picked at the height of itsgrowing season or mix two or three varieties. Very wet fruitlike strawberries are less desirable as it will cause the coffeecake to stick to the pan.

Makes 1 bundt cake

For the batter:3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour11/2 teaspoon baking soda3/4 teaspoon salt2 cups ripe fresh fruit (whole berries or cut 1/2 pieces)12 T unsalted butter, room temperature1 cup granulated sugar1/2 cup light brown sugar2 eggs11/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract11/2 cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 12c bundt pan.

Sift flour, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Toss with yourhands. Remove 1/4 cup flour mixture and toss with the freshfruit. Set aside both bowls.


Chocolate Love

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.

Three ColourCigarettes

Tools:Marble slabAirbrushScotch tapePutty knivesOffset spatula

Ingredients:White chocolateColored cocoa butter

Chocolate “Cigarettes”

2. 3.1.

5. 6.4.

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1. Lightly apply Scotch tape to marbleslab approximately one inch apart.Then place one piece of tape diagonallyacross the original lines of tape.

2. Airbrush first color of cocoa butteron the marble slab on the bias crossingthe tape. Leave one inch betweeneach line.

3. In between the lines, spray the secondcolor of cocoa butter.

4. Remove the diagonal piece of tape toexpose the bare marble.

5. Pour white chocolate to cover theentire airbrushed area.

6. Allow the white chocolate to harden.

7.

8.

Chocolate Love


7. Using a putty knife, clean the four edgesto create a rectangle. Remove the excesschocolate.

8. With a putty knife at a 45-degree angle,quickly and forcefully, in one motion,push the chocolate into a 1/8-inch bandto create individual three-colorchocolate “cigarettes.”

For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676

1908 – 2008

In 1908, Max Felchlin crafted his fi rst artisan product. A century later, Felchlin’s unique specialties inspire passionate chefs from around the world to push the boundaries of creativity in pursuit of gastronomic excellence. We remain humbly at your service.

100 Years – from us to you

2. 3.1.

Wild Sweets

Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information,�visit www.dcduby.com


RASPBERRY MERINGUE180 mL raspberry purée20g albumen powder*80g granulated sugar

*This recipe is tested with ALBEN Elements by DC DUBY,other albumen may be substituted but results may differ.

Essentially, foams are the result of mechanically incorporating

air into egg whites, which consist almost entirely of proteins and

water so that the resulting preparation gains volume and becomes

as light as possible in texture. Adding air is not an issue, but past

a certain point, excessive beating will break and collapse the foam.

Research has shown that in order to gain more volume in a foam

from the protein available, more water must be added (typically

beaten in after the foam reaches maximum volume). However,

the “water” need not be just water but instead can be an aromatic

liquid such as fruit juice, wine, or an infusion, which results in

many different foams with unique and distinct flavors and colors.

Another option for ‘flavored’ foams is through the use of

albumen or egg white powder. In this form, the typically freeze

dried egg whites must be reconstituted with water before foaming.

Replacing the water with a non-fat aromatic liquid such as fruit juice

or cooking stock, and you have opened a new realm of possibilities.

FOAMING – Part 1

Preheat oven to 200°F. Pour the raspberry purée into a tall andnarrow container and add the ALBEN. Using an electric mixer,whip until stiff peaks. Add in the sugar an continue mixinguntil well combined. Using a rectangular template, evenly spreada thin layer of the meringue on a silicon mat. Fill the remainingmeringue into a piping bag fitted with a small round tube andpipe straight lines on top of the rectangle. Bake for approximately50 to 60 minutes or until dry and crisp. Remove from thetray, let cool briefly on a wire rack and immediately store in anairtight container.

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4. 5.

ALMOND BUTTER MOUSSE200g almond butter50 mL almond oil50g invert sugar5 mL vanilla extract60g milk chocolate, melted100g soft butter

Combine the almond butter, almond oil, and invert sugar in ablender and mix until well combined. Add the vanillaextract, melted milk chocolate, and mix until all combined.Transfer mixture into an electric mixer, add the butter, and whipuntil the cream is light and airy. Let set in the refrigerator.


Wild Sweets

AssemblyJust before service, place the cold almond mousse in a pastrybag fitted with a round tube and pipe beads or lines on top ofthe meringue. Arrange a few fresh raspberries on top of thecream and top with another meringue. Finish with afresh raspberry and a piece of gold leaf. Serve immediately.

ALBERT USTER IMPORTS 1.800.231.8154 WWW.AUISWISS.COM

e x q u i s i t e c h o c o l a t e . e x c e l l e n t p r i c e .


Asian Fusion

Publisher’s Note:Successful entrepreneur, award winning author,instructor, international representative and currentPresident of the Korean Bakers Association, ChefKim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazingvisionary in the pastry and baking fusionmovement, Chef Kim marries his classicalEuropean training with his appreciation for Asianingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy ofDream Character, Inc.

2 loaves1 baking pan

Dough:400g bread flour100g rye meal50g sugar10g salt15g instant dry yeast50g egg270 gred wine80g unsalted butter200g chopped walnuts

WallnutRed Wine Bread*Recipe from ‘A Collection of Fine Baking’, by Young Mo Kim.

Before you begin

1. Mix and sift bread flour and rye

meal and set aside.

2. Whisk the egg in a separate bowl

prior to adding to the mix at

Step 2.

3. Read the steam baking technique

at Step 13, and prepare in

advance.

5.

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1.

Steps1. Put sifted bread flour and rye flour on a work surface. Add sugar

and salt and mix together. Add instant dry yeast and lightly mix

in with your fingers.

2. Make a well and add whisked egg and red wine. Knead for about

5 minutes or until the dough doesn’t cling to your hands.

*Use cold wine during the summer, and room-temperature wine

for the winter.

3.

1.

2. 2a.

3a. 4.

6. 6a.

7. 3. Add unsalted butter and continue to knead

for another 4-6 minutes. The color of the

dough may vary due to the color of the wine.

4. Using your palm, press down the dough to

flatten it. Add chopped walnuts and fold in

the dough.

5. First Rise. Make a round ball and place it in

a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, putting

a few holes in the wrap for the dough to

breathe, and leave at room temperature for

one hour.

6. Bench. Divide the dough in half. Make a round

ball and cover with plastic wrap. Leave at

room temperature for about 20 minutes.

7. Shape. Lightly roll the dough with a rolling

pin to make an oval shape.

8.

8. Starting from the long end, roll the dough. Seal the end by squeezing

the dough together with your fingers.

9. Turn the dough over so the seam faces down.

10. Spray water evenly over the dough.

11. Second Rise. Dip the wet side in extra bread flour. Place the dough

on a pan. Cover with plastic wrap (see page 35 for further

explanation) and leave at room temperature for 40-50 minutes.

12. Use a knife to make a 1/4 ” (7mm) deep diagonal slash (or be

creative!).

13. Bake. Preheat the oven to 430ºF/220ºC for about 30 minutes prior

to baking. When you turn on the oven, place clean rocks in a separate

pan and place it in the bottom rack (these rocks will be very hot

by the time you put the bread dough in the oven). Place the dough

in the oven (picture 13a). Have a cup of water ready and pour it

over the heated rocks (picture 13b). As soon as you pour the water,

close the oven door quickly to keep the steam inside. Turn down

the temperature to 355ºF/180ºC and bake for 28-30 minutes.


Asian Fusion

9.

11.10.

12. 13.

THE FINEST CONFECTION SELECTION

Rich, ultra-premium, handmade and exquisitely painted chocolates from Norman LoveConfections begins with the world’s finest ingredients—Swiss Grand Cru chocolateand ganaches created with Thai coconuts, Sicilian pistachios or Tahitian vanilla. We arepleased to offer our chocolates, available in more than three dozen tantalizing flavors, torestaurants, hotels, gourmet markets and catering companies nationwide. For informationplease call, visit our Web site or e-mail [email protected].

11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, FL 33913

2 3 9 . 5 6 1 . 7 2 1 5 • www.NormanLoveConfections.com

4.


Caramel Crémeuxwith Hazelnut Logs

Plated Desserts

Publisher’s Note: As the former Executive Pastry Chef at theFrench Embassy, Washington, D.C. and a 10 year Ritz Carlton Groupveteran, Eric is the driving force (chef/owner) behind Visage Pâtisserieand the recently launched Macaron Pastry Training Centre in Bangkok(www.macaronbkk.com).

Caramel Cremeux100g sugar25g butter500g cream 35%120g egg yolks6g gelatin leaves

Photography by Dragon Filipovic

1. 2.

3.

1. Caramelize the sugar and add the butter.

2. Incorporate the egg yolks and temperthe caramel vanilla cream and cook at85ºC. Add the softened gelatin.

3. Strain the anglaise.

4. Pour in flexipan mold and freeze.

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Financier170g almond flour100g cake flour335g sugar225g egg whites285g melted butter (noisette)100g lemon semi confit

1. Sift the cake flour, almond flourand sugar.

Add the egg whites and meltthe butter (noisette).

Pipe the financier mix intoflexipan.

Hazelnut Cream300g pastry cream50g praline paste50g pate de noisette4g gelatin250g whipped cream

1. Make a pastry cream and set aside.Soften the gelatin in cold water.

Smooth the pastry cream. Add thepraline paste and hazelnut paste.

Melt and warm up the gelatin andadd to the praline cream. Fold ingently the whipped cream. Pipeonto silpat and freeze.

2. Cut into small logs.

2. Add the semi confit.

3. Cover with silpat and bakeat 200ºC.

4. Place the financier on thetop of the caramel cremeux(just set)


Plated Desserts

1. 2.

Chocolate GarnishMilk chocolate

1. Pour tempered chocolate onto plasticsheet.

2. Spread the milk chocolate evenly overthe sheet.

3. Cut into small strips

4. While still not set yet, fit the plasticsheet into a small Yule log mold andallow to set. Once ready, remove fromthe mold and take out rolled chocolate.

Assemble the dessert and serve with vanillabean ice cream and dot with smallamounts of chocolate sauce.

3. 4.

pastry & baking volume 3 issue 2 2008

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