patagonia: argentina and the chilean fjords (nat geo)
TRANSCRIPT
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PATAGONIA: ARGENTINA AND THE CHILEAN FJORDS (NAT GEO)
More than a century after Europeans settled it, Patagoniaremains remote. Never precisely defined, it stretches south fromthe Rio Colorado and eastern part of the Rio Bio-Bio to the tipof the continent. Our exploration here includes a look at totalPatagonia—from the pampas of Argentina to the fjords, lakesand glaciers of Chile—along with unforgettable highlights andwilderness of epic proportion.
Explore the must-see places, like Tierra del Fuego, Torres delPaine National Park and the marine-rich Valdes Peninsula,along with some of the region’s newest parks and reserveswhere we have special access. Begin your journey in thelegendary South American city of Buenos Aires. By specialpermission, we’ll explore Tierra del Fuego’s newest and largestreserve, Karukinka. View the migration of southern right whaleson Peninsula Valdes at the height of the breeding season.Experience the landscapes of the gauchos at a private estancia(sheep ranch). Zodiac and kayak in the Chilean fjords nearimpressive glaciers. Hike the trails of Torres del Paine, therenowned reserve that guards the most magical of Patagonia’sscenic treasures.
ITINERARY
DAY 1-2 — Buenos Aires/Embark Ship
The sweep and elegance of a Parisian cityscape—with a tango soundtrack. That’s Buenos Aires. Visit the city’s Beaux Arts
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palaces and the bohemian quarters of La Boca and San Telmo.Overnight at the Caesar Park Hotel, and on day 2, embarkNational Geographic Explorer. (Day 2:B,L,D)
DAY 3 — At Sea - South Atlantic
Our ship navigates southward along the Argentine coastline.Head to the Bridge to watch for marine life, and gather in thelounge for presentations from our staff. (B,L,D)
DAY 4 — Bahia Blanca, Argentina
We cruise up the expansive estuary, a maze of channels andislands, hoping to view the rarely observed Franciscana, or LaPlata dolphin, as well as the local and rare Olrog’s gull. Fromthis port city, set on the edge of vast grasslands called thepampas, we venture into the countryside flanked by themountain range of Sierra de la Ventana. Visit the ParqueProvincial Ernesto Tornquist, which preserves a wide range ofspecies native to the pampas. (B,L,D)
DAY 5 — At Sea—South Atlantic
Enjoy the ship’s amenities: have a massage, work out in thegym, savor time in the library, and listen to talks by the staff onphotography and the marine environment of the PatagoniaShelf. (B,L,D)
DAY 6 — Puerto Madryn/Peninsula Valdes
A UNESCO Site, Peninsula Valdes is a wildlife haven where endangered southern right whales come to mate and calve their young. October is the peak of the migration season, and at this time of year the cows and newborn calves can be seen, often in water as shallow as 15 feet. When you come to Peninsula Valdés you must have a keen eye and an open mind, as things aren’t always as you imagine they should be. Unlike most
whales species, which lift their tail flukes temporarily out of thewater to make a dive, these right whales choose instead tohover vertically with their heads and bodies underwater, liftingtheir massive flukes high above the sea to catch the wind.Imagine it if you can: a whale tail sail! Leaving the whalesbehind, we journey further into the peninsula, stopping to lookat guanacos (a wild relative of the llama), maras, armadillos,and a Magellanic penguin colony. Even the familiar form ofpenguins seems so out of place here in this strange and exoticpeninsula. (B,L,D)
DAY 7 — Bahia Bustamante
One quickly understands the term “vast” while traveling inPatagonia. Today we visit a private estancia (ranch), which hasbeen in the hands of the Soriano family for 50 years. With210,000 acres, the estancia still operates as a sheep ranchand also as a nature reserve. Fifty miles of its coastline isincluded in Argentina’s Marine National Park Austral Patagonia,and most of the vegetation and wildlife of the Patagonia steppelives on the property. Over 100 species of birds are found in thearea, officially declared an Area of Importance for theConservation of Birds. We see colonies of Magellanic penguins,and rock and royal cormorants. Southern sea lions andelephant seals breed here and we look for whales offshore.Inland, we keep an eye out for the guanacos, rheas and othersteppe wildlife. (B,L,D)
DAY 8 — Puerto Deseado
For a small port village isolated along a rugged coast, Puerto Deseado has a distinctive maritime history. First discovered by Magellan in 1520, other explorers followed including Sir Frances Drake, Thomas Cavendish and Charles Darwin. We see a remnant of the port’s past at the local museum, where
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remains of the Swift, a British war ship sunk in 1770, isdisplayed. Deseado is actually a submerged estuary designatedReserva Natural Ria Deseado by the Argentine government. Weboard small boats to view the steep cliffs and visit colonies offour species of breeding shags and other seabirds, including theonly rockhopper penguin colony in Patagonia. Dolphins oftenescort the boats and we hope to spot the distinctive black andwhite Commerson’s dolphin. (B,L,D)
DAY 9 — Exploring Coastal Argentina
The remote Argentine coast has been visited by countlessexpeditions through history, including Charles Darwin aboardHMS Beagle. The southern coast has sandy beaches andimpressive geological formations with dramatic arches andcaves, perfect for exploring. Weather permitting, we may cruisealong one of Argentina’s newest national parks, Monte Leon,which protects the coast, marine waters and inland. It’s anatural habitat for guanacos, choiques, foxes and cougars.(B,L,D)
DAY 10 — Punta Arenas & Isla Magdalena, Chile
Discover the special charm of the extreme southern city of Punta Arenas. Begin at Cerro de la Cruz for panoramic views of the Strait of Magellan then travel the main plazas, stopping at two unique museums: the Maggiorino Borgatello Museum, with its natural history exhibits, and the Braun Menendez Museum, an opulent mansion testifying to the wealth and power of sheep farmers in the 1800s. There will also be an opportunity for a nature hike. One of the highlights of the day is a stop at Isla Magdalena to watch the amusing Magellanic penguins (also called jackass penguins for their characteristic bray) at their nesting sites, poking their heads out of their burrows. These penguins form lifelong partnerships and divide their chores
equally: every morning and afternoon, the penguin coupleschange shifts — one heads out to fish, the other returns fromfishing to take care of their young. When this changing of theguard begins, the penguins politely line up and waddle to andfrom the sea. Best viewing takes place late October to February.(B,L,D)
DAY 11 — Tierra Del Fuego, Chile: Karukinka Natural Park
One of Patagonia’s crowned jewels, Tierra del Fuego is abeautiful island known as the ‘Land of Fire’ at its most southerntip — home to remarkable wildlife. Our destination is the newestand largest protected area on Tierra del Fuego: KarukinkaNatural Park. Since 2004, it has been owned and managed bythe Wildlife Conservation Society, who we’ve been inconversation with and are thrilled to have been offeredpermission to explore their park. Spanning 1,160 square miles,this protected area is a bountiful reserve of sub-Antarcticwoodlands, peat bogs, windswept steppes and snow-coveredmountain ranges. Karukinka is a showcase for the uniquewildlife of Patagonia, sheltering guanaco, the endangeredculpeo fox, the Andean condor and more. (B,L,D)
DAY 12-13 — Exploring The Chilean Fjords
The renowned fjords of southern Chile rival those of southeast Alaska in their raw beauty. The protected fjords and inlets of the honeycombed Chilean coastline are home to dolphins, whales, seals, and Magellanic penguins, with awesome views of the Cordillera Darwin as a bonus. You’ll see gigantic glaciers and snowcapped peaks, thousands of islands covered with vegetation, lakes and waterfalls and come to appreciate (in the words of Herman Melville) “all the attending marvels of a thousand Patagonia sights and sounds.” Our Captain and Expedition Leader will constantly be on the lookout for
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memorable places to explore by ship, Zodiac and kayak. (B,L,D)
DAY 14 — Puerto Natales/Torres Del Paine N.P.
After sailing through the famous White Narrows yesterday, wearrive at Puerto Natales to begin our three-hour drive throughChilean Patagonia to the monumental Torres del Paine NationalPark, a UNESCO Biosphere World Reserve. The landscape is big,wide and sprawling, with miles of grazing land, snow-cappedmountains and razor-backed ridges. Look for Andean condors,flamingos and rheas, the flightless birds that are cousins of theemu and the ostrich. It is hard to imagine that the park couldtop the drive, but the Torres del Paine are an amazing sight, acluster of jagged granite mountains topped with a thick layer ofdark slate. The park is one of the most spectacular andwildlife-rich areas in the Americas, covering about 450,000acres of glaciers, mountains, forests, rolling hills andgrasslands, colorful lakes, rivers and lagoons, and we exploreand hike in the company of our Naturalists and local guides.(B,L,D)
DAY 15 — Exploring the Chilean Fjords
We have another opportunity to explore the Chilean Fjords’myriad islands and maze of channels. Andean condors soaroverhead, while humpback whales, Peale’s and the rare Chileandolphins utilize the productive marine waters. The Andesmountain range will be an ever-present and inspiring backdrop.Myriad fjords or senos indent the coast of Tierra del Fuego alongthe western Strait of Magellan: Seno Angostini, Seno Martinez,Seno Chico to name a few. Many are punctuated with tidewaterglaciers at the end and we will cruise deep into one of thesenos to explore by Zodiac and kayak. (B,L,D)
DAY 16 — Beagle Channel & Yendegaia, Chile
Our transit of the scenic Beagle Channel takes us throughprotected waters in view of the snow-covered peaks of theCordillera Darwin, which makes up the Western Peninsula ofTierra del Fuego. Huge condors may be seen against abackground of enormous glaciers. It was here in the 1830s thatnaturalist Charles Darwin explored aboard HMS Beagle. Ourfocus today is on Yendegaia, a stunning piece of wild naturethat stretches more than 95,000 acres. We’ve received specialpermission to explore here from friends and wildernessadvocates Kris and Doug Tompkins, who first saw itsoutstanding conservation potential in 1998 and worked topreserve it. A former cattle ranch on Tierra del Fuego, it boastssouthern beech forests, expansive grasslands, mountains andwild rivers. (B,L,D)
DAY 17 — Cape Horn
Today we round the southernmost tip of the continent, named in1616 by Dutch navigator Willem Schouten. He called the cape“Hoorn” after his birthplace while he was searching for a traderoute to the Orient. Weather permitting, take Zodiacs ashore fora panoramic view from the southernmost tip of South America,and visit the family manning the weather station on top of theisland. (B,L,D)
DAY 18 — Ushuaia /Disembark/Buenos Aires
Disembark in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, withtime to explore before our private LAN charter flight to BuenosAires. (B,L)
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YOUR SHIP: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPLORER
YOUR SHIP: National Geographic Explorer
VESSEL TYPE: Luxury Expedition
LENGTH: 108 meters
PASSENGER CAPACITY: 148 (single & twin cabins)
BUILT/REFURBISHED: 1982 / 2008
_National Geographic Explorer_ is a state-of-the-art expeditionship. It is a fully stabilized, ice-class vessel, enabling it tonavigate polar passages while providing exceptional comfort. Itcarries kayaks and a fleet of Zodiac landing craft. An UnderseaSpecialist operates a remotely operated vehicle (ROV) andsophisticated video equipment, extending access to theunderwater world.Public areas: Bistro Bar; Chart Room; Restaurant; GlobalGallery; Library, Lounge with full service bar and state-of-the-artfacilities for films, slideshows and presentations; Mud Roomwith lockers for expedition gear, and Observation Lounge. Our“Open Bridge” provides guests an opportunity to meet ourOfficers and Captain and learn about navigation.Meals: Served in single seatings with unassigned tables for aninformal atmosphere and easy mingling. Menu is internationalwith local flair.Cabins: All cabins face outside with windows or portholes,private facilities and climate controls.Expedition Equipment: Zodiac landing craft, kayaks, RemotelyOperated Vehicle (ROV), hydrophone, SplashCam, underwatervideo
camera, Crow’s Nest remote controlled camera, videomicroscope, snorkeling gear.Special Features: A full-time doctor, Undersea Specialist, LEXPhoto Specialist and Video Chronicler, Internet Cafe andlaundry.Wellness: The vessel is staffed by two Wellness Specialists andfeatures a glass enclosed Fitness Center, outdoor stretchingarea, two LEXspa treatment rooms and Sauna.
