personal care - scs formulate
TRANSCRIPT
1www.grolman-personalcare.com
Personal CarePersonal Care
2
The Grolman Group
The Grolman Group operates an international specialty ingredients distribution
business. It is composed of individual local sales offices based in all European
countries, each supported by technically trained sales staff, customer service teams
and local warehousing.
The Grolman Group, run by the fifth generation of the Grolman family, has been
privately owned since it was established in 1855. The key to its success has been the
dedication and commitment to building an efficient customer-focused organisation
where customers’ needs are an essential driving force.
Grolman. Quality since 1855.
www.grolman-personalcare.com
Grolman1855
International Distribution
&
®
F o c u s e d. I n n o v a t i v e. R e s p o n s i v e .
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Branch Offices & Laboratories
24 Branch Offices
2 Laboratories Personal Care & Pharma
3 Laboratories Paint & Coatings
3 Laboratories Plastics & Rubber
International Distribution of Specialty Ingredients
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Table of Contents
BC Mild Additives – Surfactants 10
BC Mild Additives – Emulsifiers 12
Chemipol Classical and Innovative Preservatives 14
CR&D Natural-Based Active Ingredients 16
Schlenk Metallic Effect Pigments 30
Temix Complex Esters 32
Temix Emulsifiers and Mild Surfactants 34
Aqdot Innovative Emulsifiers 35
Basel Silicone Elastomers and Fluoro Silicones 36
Corel Performance Thickeners 38
Mondo Minerals Talc 39
Woosung Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid 40
Argenol Silver for Antimicrobial Activity 41
Cales de Llierca Precipitated Calcium Carbonate 42
Orion Iron Blue Pigment 43
Radiant/Sterling Fluorescent and Organic Pigments 44
Grolman (rimana) Iron Oxides 45
Sekisui Polyvinyl Alcohol & VA Copolymers 46
Sigachi Microcrystalline Cellulose 47
Venator Ultramarine and Manganese Violet Pigments 48
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Application
Supplier Products Description Skin
Car
e
Dec
orat
ive
Cos
met
ics
Hai
r C
are
Toile
trie
s
Aqdot AqStar Innovative Emulsifiers ■ ■ ■ ■
Argenol Silver range Antimicrobial Agents ■ ■
Basel Puresil, BSG Silicone Elastomers and Fluoro Silicones ■ ■
BC Beautycare Mild Surfactants ■ ■ ■
BC Beautyderm Emulsifiers ■ ■ ■
Cales de Llierca Calprec Precipitated Calcium Carbonate ■ ■ ■ ■
Chemipol Biopol Classical Preservatives ■ ■ ■ ■
Chemipol Sensicare Innovative Preservatives ■ ■ ■ ■
Corel Acrypol Acrylate Polymer Thickeners ■ ■ ■ ■
Corel Acryset Hair Fixative Agents ■ ■ ■ ■
CR&D Natural-Based Active Ingredients Anti-Ageing, Anti-Cellulite, Anti-Pollution, Anti-Stretch Marks, Moisturising, Anti-Inflammation ■ ■ ■ ■
Grolman rimana iox Iron Oxides ■ ■
Mondo Minerals Mondana Talc ■ ■
Orion Vossen-Blau Iron Blue ■
Radiant/Sterling Dermaglo Fluorescent Colorants ■
Schlenk Alegrace Metallic Effect Pigments ■
Sekisui Selvol Polyvinyl Alcohol and Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer Derivates ■ ■ ■
Sigachi Cosmocel Microcrystalline Celulose ■ ■ ■ ■
Temix Alcoltex Fatty Alcohol ■ ■ ■ ■
Temix Etowax Blend with Fatty Alcohol ■ ■
Temix Temest Classical and Complex Esters ■ ■ ■ ■
Temix Temcare Mild Surfactants ■ ■ ■
Venator Manganese Violet Manganese Violet (CI 77742) ■ ■
Venator Ultramarines Ultramarine Blue, Violet and Pink (CI 77007) ■ ■
Woosung Hyalpol Hyaluronic Polymers ■ ■ ■ ■
Ingredient Overview
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Supplier Product Name INCI Name Properties
CR&D AFA-GS Glycerin, Aqua, Sucrose, Aphanizomenon Flos Aquae (AFA) Powder
Multifunctional activityAnti-pollution activity (elimination of heavy metals)Anti-inflammatory activityAnti-oxidant activityDNA protection
CR&D Carnoxyn Aqua, Carnitine Fumarate, Sodium Pyruvate, Succinic Acid, Citric Acid
Anti-cellulite activity (stimulates the Krebs cycle process)
CR&D Glycacid Eco Glycerin, Hydrolysed Glycosaminoglycans Moisturising activityInnovative technology based on Hydrolised GlycosaminoglycansIncreases the speed and the penetration of the active ingredient into the skin)
CR&D Glycohyal LW Glycerin, Hydrolysed Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic Acid Anti-ageing activity (anti-wrinkles, improve skin elasticity) Moisturising activityFast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin
CR&D Glycosnail VEG Aqua, Glycoprotein, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Copper Gluconate, Sodium PCA
Anti-stretch mark activity
CR&D Glycoxantine Glycerin, Aqua, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Caffein, Theophyllin, Theobromin
Anti-cellulite activity (reduces the thigh circumference and the adipose tissue thickness)Fast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin
CR&D Hyalomarine Aqua, Glycerin, Macrocristys Pyryfera Extract, Hyaluonic Acid Lifting effect
CR&D Hydrafeel-3 Polyglyceryl-3 PCA Skin MoisturisingSkin EmollientHair ProtectantHair Colour ProtectantHair Conditioner
CR&D Tarchoplus Dicaprylyl Ether, Tarchonantus Camphoratus Oil, Helichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract
Sports performance enhancerRepairingAnti-oedemaSoothing
Innovation Corner – Active Ingredients
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Description Supplier Product Name INCI Name Properties
Antimicrobial Agents
Argenol Metallic Silver Powder – W
Silver Antimicrobial activityNon-irritatingAluminium freeMetallic silver has a long lasting effect
Antimicrobial Agents
Argenol Silver Citrate Solution Silver Citrate, Citric Acid Antimicrobial activityNon-irritatingAluminium freePrevents the formation of unpleasant odoursReplaces triclosanIonic silver is fast acting
Emollients Temix Temest 125 LT C12-15 Alkyl Lactate Reduces tackiness and greasinessHigh conditioningBrings viscosity to surfactant systems
Emollients Temix Temest J05 Di Ethylhexyl Adipate Gives matt effectVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments
Emollients Temix Temest J30 Di Ethylhexyl Sebacate Brings shineVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments
Emollients Temix Temest T20 Coco Caprylate/Caprate Green solution for silicon oil replacement
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
Aqdot Aq Star M1 Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Curcubiturils
O/W emulsionInnovation technology: Innovative Aq Bit technology
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
BC Beautycare OL Sodium Oliveamphoacetate Mild surfactantReduces irritation caused by aggressive surfactantsCosmos certified
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
BC Beautyderm HP Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Moisturiser O/W emulsifier Easy to use in only one phaseWide range of viscosity possibleCosmos certified
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
BC Beautyderm K10 Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol
O/W emulsifier Cosmos certifiedFresh and light textureExcellent spreading power
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
BC Beautyderm K9 Sorbitan Olivate W/O emulsifier Fresh and light textureCosmos certified
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
BC Beautyderm WW Olive Oil PEG-7 Ester, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Oleate
O/W emulsifier Natural originCold processDoes not irritate skin or eyes
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
Temix Temcare CG Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Mild surfactantSmooth and soft feelingImproves hair condition
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
Temix Temcare GLY Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Mild surfactantGlycine derivateCreamy foamLeaves fresh feeling
Emulsifiers/Surfactants
Temix Temcare SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Anionic O/W emulsifierForms lamellar liquid crystal emulsionsCold or hot process
Hyaluronic Polymer
Woosung Hyalpol Moisture Plus Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer Adsorbs to the skinMoisturising and antioxidant propertiesExcellent after-feel
Innovation Corner – Additives
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Description Supplier Product Name INCI Name Properties
Pigments – Metallic
Schlenk Alegrace Aurous 02-01
CI 77491, Silica, CI 77000 Excellent opacityCan be mixed with pigments to achieve a large range of gold shadeVery stable colour (no oxidation)Homogeneous colourPossible to achieve matt or shiny effect
Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare C 3300 Benzyl Alcohol Glyceryl Laurate Booster technologyReliable efficacy compared to classical preservativesLow potential of sensitisationOption for different marketing requirementsCosmos approved
Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare FP 1 Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Laurate, Propylene Glycol
Non-listed preservativesBooster technologyEffective against bacteria and fungiFor rinse-off, emulsions and lotionsNo side effects on final formulations
Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare FP 2 Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Glyceryl Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol
Non-listed preservativesBooster technologyEffective against bacteria and fungiFor rinse-off, emulsions and lotionsNo side effects on final formulations
Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare NAT Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Capsaicin, Naringenin, Hesperidin, Citrus Reticulate Peel Extract, Vegetal Glycerine Ascorbic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
Non-listed preservativesCosmos certified, NatrueBooster technologyEffective against bacteria and fungiFor rinse-off, emulsions and lotionsNo side effects on final formulations
Silicones Basel Puresil-CHM01 Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl DimethiconeCrosspolymer
Enhances skin feelingMany applications: skin care, hair care, sun care, make-up
Silicones Basel SF-30 Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone Extraordinary skin feelingOil, water repellentLong-lasting effectHeat resistance
Thickeners and/or Stabilisers
Corel Acrypol ET 28 Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Easy to disperseLow percentage needed to obtain a good viscosityCompatible with surfactant systems and emulsionsEconomical
Thickeners and/or Stabilisers
Corel Acryset Superhold II Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer Hair fixative agentEfficient thickener
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Mild Additives – Surfactants
BC Cosmetic and Food is a company created by real experts, both in the food and cosmetics sector,
and thanks to the long experience and passion of its technicians, BC can offer a solution for any type
of product that the customer intends to develop or improve.
In the cosmetics sector, innovation and constant research give BC an original, dynamic and very
proactive impact. High-performance ingredients give the customer the opportunity to experiment in
the creativity of any type of formulation.
CR&D is a subsidiary of BC, which allows it to dedicate a space to research.
Product INCI Name Use Level Form
Beautycare AR Sodium Arganamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare BA Sodium Babassuamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare CB Sodium Cocoabutteramphoacetate 1-10% Paste
Beautycare CT Sodium Cottonseedamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare KT Sodium Sheabutteramphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare MB Sodium Mangoamphoacetate 1-10% Paste
Beautycare OL Sodium Oliveamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare RC Sodium Ricebranamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare SA Sodium Sweetalmondamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare SE Sodium Sesamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
Beautycare SF Sodium Sunflowerseedamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid
BeautyCare Range BeautyCare are amphoacetates directly derived
from triglycerides of oils and/or butters, which
make them extraordinarily delicate and rich in these
nutrients and emollients characteristic of the oils
and/or butters of origin. They have been designed
for use in a wide range of skin-friendly detergent
systems. They have an excellent compatibility with
many surfactants, particularly indicated for very
delicate skins. BeautyCare can be formulated in a
very wide pH range from 3 to 10.
■ Mild surfactant
■ Reduce irritation caused by aggressive surfactants
■ Cosmos approved
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Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Beautyolea S3 Olive Oil PEG-7 esters Secondary surfactantSolubilising propertiesHLB: 11 – Co-emulsifier in O/W system
1-5% Liquid100% pure content
Beautyolea S4 Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate Primary/Secondary surfactantDense and creamy foam
1-30% Liquid36% pure content
Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Beautygreen TGA
Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Aqua, Sodium Sesamphoacetate
Mild cleansing baseTransparentCold processGood viscosity in final product
1-30% Liquid36% pure content
Beautyolea Range The emollient and greasing properties of olive oil enhance the sensation of comfort, which is highly appreciated
in shampoos, toiletries and personal care formulations. It reduces the irritating action of the surfactant system
compounds and does not influence the foaming properties of other surfactants.
■ Mild surfactant
■ Derived from pure Italian olive oil
■ Not irritant for skin/eyes
Beautygreen TGA Beautygreen TGA is an exceptionally mild cleansing base that is very easy to use in different percentages and
gives a feeling of softness to the hair and skin.
■ Ready to use mild cleansing base
■ 100% natural origin
■ PEG free
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Mild Additives – Emulsifiers
Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Beautyderm HP Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Excellent emulsifying powerStable with a wide pH range and temperatureStable in the presence of electrolytesForm emulsions with very small liquid-crystalline droplets (better stability of the emulsion)
2-8% Solid flakes
Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Beautyderm HP Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol
Stable with a wide pH range and temperatureLiquid crystalline phaseCreate a hydrophobic film on the surface
3-6% Solid flakes
Beautyderm HP Beautyderm HP is a new generation of emulsifier. It is able to emulsify oils of different polarity and viscosity,
even if present in high percentage. Beautyderm HP can be introduced into emulsions with a very wide range
of viscosity, from milk to cream with a very solid consistency, varying only in the composition of the oily phase.
Beautyderm HP improves skin hydration, thanks to the Sodium PCA component of NMF (Natural Moisturising
Factor) and obtained by the action of skin enzymes (protease) with Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate.
■ Moisturiser
■ O/W emulsifier
■ Easy to use in only one phase
■ Wide range of viscosity possible
■ Cosmos approved
Beautyderm K10 Beautyderm K10 is derived from olive oil. It is able to form particularly fresh and light O/W emulsions, with a
velvety feel and enriched with the functional properties of Italian olive oil.
With Beautyderm K10 it is possible to obtain stable emulsions that offer emollient properties and a pleasant
feeling of softness and silkiness even when they contain large quantities of oily substances.
■ O/W emulsifier
■ Cosmos approved
■ Fresh and light texture
■ Excellent spreading power
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Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Beautyderm HP Sorbitan Olivate Stable with a wide temperature range Helps disperse UV filters
3-6% Solid flakes
Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Beautyderm WW Olive Oil PEG-7 Ester, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Oleate
Light textureMake-up remover and skin cleaning activity
0.5-10% Liquid
Beautyderm K9 Beautyderm K9 allows the production of W/O emulsions that are glossy, creamy and light. These emulsions are
easy to spread, have a smooth feel and are easily absorbed.
The thickening of the aqueous phase can be obtained with this emulsifier. In fact, it is able to form an
organised reticular structure that replaces waxy ingredients. The texture obtained is more in line with modern
concepts of emulsions since it allows the development of light and fresh textures.
■ W/O emulsifier
■ Fresh and light texture
■ Cosmos approved
Beautyderm WW Beautyderm WW is a new generation cold emulsifier. It is derived from natural raw materials such as olive oil.
Beautyderm WW is suitable for applications with light textures, such as the ones used in wet-wipes. It also
offers excellent skin tolerance, which makes Beautyderm WW particularly useful in cosmetic formulations for
sensitive skin and babies. It has multifunctional benefits of hydration and moisture retention of the skin thanks
to the presence of ricinoleate and stearate esters.
■ O/W emulsifier
■ Natural origin
■ Cold process
■ Not irritant for skin and eyes
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Product INCI Name Characteristics Recommended dosage Application
Sensicare® FP 1 Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Laurate
Multifunctional activity: antioxidant, skin conditioning, humectantWide pH range (<10)High temperature (<80°C)
1-2% Baby Care, Facial Care, Eye Contour, Oral Care, Wet Wipes, Make-Up, Clear Cosmetics
Sensicare® FP 2 Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Laurate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Multifunctional activity: skin conditioning, humectantWide pH range (<8)High temperature (<90°C)
1-2% Baby Care, Facial Care, Wet Wipes, Make-Up, Clear Cosmetics, Emulsions
Sensicare® NAT Glycerin, Citrus Species Peel Extract, Naringenin, Ascorbic Acid, Lactic acid, Citric Acid
Cosmos certified – NatrueMultifunctional activity: skin conditioning, antioxidant, humectant, parfumWide pH range (<10)High temperature (<80°C)
1-1.5% Baby Care, Facial Care, Wet Wipes, Make-Up
Classical and Innovative Preservatives
In 1979 a group of professionals from the chemical industry established Chemipol S.A. in order to
contribute their experience to the development of sectors that are vital for human progress. Today,
Chemipol has over 30 years of experience in microbiology, applicable to personal care but also in
chemicals and food industry. They supply a wide range of preservatives and provide innovative
technologies with highly effective products and experts support services.
Sensicare® FP and Sensicare® NATThe Sensicare® FP and NAT ranges are preservative-
free ranges. Behind these ranges, extensive R&D
work has been carried out which has resulted in a
perfect combination of ingredients that together
prevent the proliferation of microorganisms.
The performance of these ranges has been
demonstrated by successful challenge-tests.
■ Non-listed preservatives
■ Booster technology
■ Effective against bacteria and fungi
■ For rinse-off, emulsions and lotions
■ No side effects on final formulations
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Product INCI Name Characteristics Recommended dosage Application
Sensicare® C 1000 Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Laurate
pH independentCost effective
0.7-1.1%
Hair CareToiletriesSkin CareWet Wipes
Sensicare® C 1060 Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Laurate, Piroctone Olamine
Effective against bacteria and fungiLow dosageCost effective
0.4-0.8%
Sensicare® C 3300 Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Laurate
Cosmos certifiedpH independentCost effective
0.7-1.1%
Sensicare® M 4200 GluconolactoneSodium BenzoateCalcium Gluconate
Cosmos certifiedMultifunctional propertiesPowder form
1-2% Make-UpHair CareToiletriesSkin CareWet Wipes
Sensicare® C Thanks to Sensicare® C range, the low presence of preservatives in the final formula has minimised undesirable
side effects such as sensitisation and incompatibility with other raw materials.
■ Booster technology
■ Reliable efficacy compared to classical preservatives
■ Low potential of sensitisation
■ Option for different marketing requirements
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Natural-Based Active Ingredients
CR&D Cosmetic Research & Development was founded in 2010 by globally known Italian
cosmetologists with a great deal of experience in Skin Care formulations and the study of new highly
bioavailable substances. On the basis of experience acquired in skin biochemistry and the current
market requirements, CR&D has developed a series of highly innovative active substances with proven
high effectiveness to solve the main skin problems.
Glycacid ECOGlycacid ECO is a biotechnological product composed of hyaluronic acid forerunner mucopolysaccharides
with a significant presence of the fundamental monomer of hyaluronic acid. For this reason, it is an important
substance for the formation of physiological hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is distributed widely throughout
connective tissue and is one of nature’s most potent moisturisers.
Moreover, Glycacid ECO increases the skin permeability, making it an important penetration enhancer
for hydrophilic active ingredients. In practice, Glycacid ECO works as a carrier that makes water-soluble
actives bioavailable, increasing not only the quantity of active which is absorbed, but also the speed of skin
permeation. This property is critical, because water-soluble active ingredients do not easily penetrate the skin.
■ Moisturising activity
■ Innovative technology based on Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
■ Increase the speed and the penetration of the active ingredient into the skin
■ Cosmos approved
Glycacid ECO and active penetration
enhancement effect
An in vitro study was performed to
evaluate the penetration of a marker
(carnitine) formulated in a gel with and
without Glycacid ECO. Glycacid ECO
increases the penetration potential
of carnitine within 1 hour, causing a
complete absorption of carnitine after
24 hours of treatment (100% absorption).
Product Name Preservatives INCI Application
Glycacid ECO Free Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Skin CareBody Care
Skin permeation of carnitine (%) with and without Glycacid ECO 5%
20%
15%
10%
5%
0%15 min 30 min 1h 3h 6h 24h tissue
Gel Camitine 2%
Gel Glycacid ECO 5% + Camitine 2%
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Glycohyal LWGlycohyal LW is composed of hyaluronic acid and its precursors, from 180 Da to 10000 Da (1200 Da on
average) and is obtained from raw materials of vegetable origin. Due to the wide-ranging molecular weight
composition (3 different molecular weights), Glycohyal LW works on three skin levels:
Dermis level: improvement of hyaluronic acid synthesis, and thus anti-ageing activity
Epidermis level: deep moisturising effect and increase in skin elasticity
Corneous layer: surface moisturisation
■ Anti-ageing activity (anti-wrinkles, improves skin elasticity)
■ Moisturising activity
■ Fast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin
■ Cosmos approved
When combined with other hydrophilic active ingredients, Glycohyal LW also improves their penetration rate.
Moisturising effect
An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the moisturising efficacy of Glycohyal LW at 2% after 60 minutes
of single application and after 7 days of application once daily. Glycohyal LW at 2% significantly improved skin
hydration after 60 minutes (+18.1%) and after 7 days (+16.3%) compared to placebo.
Skin hydration (%) with and without Glycohyal LW 2%
20%
25%
15%
10%
5%
0%Var % T0/T60min Var % T0/T7days
Gel placebo
Gel Glycohyal LW 2%
% o
f hy
dra
tion
var
iatio
n v
s T
0&
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Anti-ageing effect
An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the moisturising, elasticising and anti-wrinkle efficacy of a gel with
Glycohyal LW at 5% after 15 and 30 days of twice-daily applications on the hemi-face, compared to a placebo.
Glycohyal LW at 5% significantly improved skin hydration and skin elasticity compared to a placebo.
Glycohyal LW at 5% also induced a significant decrease in wrinkle depth compared to a placebo.
Natural-Based Active Ingredients
Product Name Preservatives INCI Application
Glycohyal LW Free Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans (and) Hyaluronic Acid
Skin Care
Viscoelastic recovery index (R2)
with and without Glycohyal LW 5%
0.68
0.70
0.72
0.66
0.64
0.62
0.60T0 T30
Gel Glycohyal LW 5%
Gel placebo
T15
R2=
Ua/
Uf
Variation of wrinkles depth (%)
with and without Glycohyal LW 5%
-4
0
-8
-12
-16
-20
T15 T30
% o
f w
rin
kle
dep
th v
aria
tion
vs
T0
Gel Glycohyal LW 5%
Gel placebo
Skin hydration (a.u.) with and without Glycohyal LW 5%
32
34
36
38
30
28
26
24T0 T30T15
skin
hyd
ratio
n (
a.u
.)
Gel Glycohyal LW 5%
Gel placebo
32
34
36
38
30
28
26
24T0 T30T15
skin
hyd
ratio
n (
a.u
.)
Gel Glycohyal LW 5%
Gel placebo
0.68
0.70
0.72
0.66
0.64
0.62
0.60T0 T30
Gel Glycohyal LW 5%
Gel placebo
T15
R2=
Ua/
Uf -4
0
-8
-12
-16
-20
T15 T30
% o
f w
rin
kle
dep
th v
aria
tion
vs
T0
Gel Glycohyal LW 5%
Gel placebo
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GlycoxantineGlycoxantine combines Glycacid ECO (Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans) with Xanthines – Caffeine,
Theophylline, Theobromine – thus reducing localised adiposity and cellulitis. By the action of Hydrolyzed
Glycosaminoglycans, the Xanthines are able to penetrate deeply through the skin layers, reaching the
adipocytes quickly and completely and activating the lipolytic process. Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
additionally help in the recovery of the permeability of the interstitial walls, which is also essential for effective
anti-cellulite activity.
■ Anti-cellulite activity (reduces the thigh circumference and decreases the adipose tissue thickness)
■ Fast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin
■ Cosmos approved
Anti-cellulite effect
An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the efficacy of Glycoxantine in the reduction of localised fat.
Glycoxantine at 3% significantly decreased thigh circumference (after 15 and 30 days of treatment) and
subcutaneous adipose tissue thickness measured by ultrasound (after 30 days of treatment).
Product name Preservatives INCI Application
Glycoxantine Free Glycerin Aqua Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglicans Caffein Teophyllin Theobromin
Body Care
Thigh circumference (cm) with and without Glycoxantine 3%
Subcutaneous adipose tissue thickness (mm) with and without Glycoxantine 3%
58.5
59
59.5
58
57.5
57
56T0 T30T15
Gel Glycoxantine 3%
Gel Placebo
cm
Time (days)
13
12
11
10
9T0 T30T15
Gel Glycoxantine 3%
Gel placebo
mm
Time (days)
&
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Natural-Based Active Ingredients
CarnoxynCarnoxyn is composed of naturally obtained ingredients which stimulate the Krebs cycle process. Carnoxyn is a
skin cell metabolism increaser that mediates the transport of fatty acids to the cells, where they are converted
into energy by mitochondria. This activation increases energy consumption, which is especially useful for the
reduction of localised adiposity and cellulitis.
■ Anti-cellulite activity (stimulates the Krebs cycle process)
Fat metabolism activator
In an in vitro study, it was shown that treatment with Carnoxyn at 5% for 24h induces a significant increase
in the gene expression of the enzyme carnitine palmitoyltransferase-1 expression (CPT1B), facilitating the
production of acyl-carnitine and thus of acetyl CoA that enters the Krebs cycle for energy production.
Product name Preservatives INCI Application
Carnoxyn Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid
Aqua (and) Carnitine Fumarate (and) Sodium Pyruvate (and) Succinic Acid (and) Citric Acid
Body Care
2
2.5
1.5
1
0.5
0CN
CN = Sodium Chloride water solution 0.9%
Carnoxyn
3h
6h
24h
RQ
CPT1B Carnitine Palmitoyl Transferase-1 gene expression after treatment of 3h, 6h, 24h with Carnoxyn
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HyalomarineHyalomarine is composed of Macrocystis pyrifera extract – an extract of a giant brown algae – and hyaluronic
acid. This extract is rich in vitamins and oligosaccharides, which, in combination with hyaluronic acid, creates a
homogeneous thin and elastic surface layer with cosmetic lifting effects.
■ Lifting effect
Lifting effect
An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the lifting effect of Hyalomarine 3%. A statistically significant
decrease of wrinkle depth, compared to both the baseline and the placebo, was observed, proving the
immediate lifting activity of the ingredient.
Product name Preservatives INCI Application
Hyalomarine Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Macrocistys Pyrifera Extract (and) Hyaluronic Acid
Skin Care
Variation of wrinkle depth (%) with and without Hyalomarine 3%
&
-4%
0%
-8%
-12%
-16%
-20%
T15 min T1h T2h
% o
f w
rin
kle
dep
th v
aria
tion
vs
T0
Gel Hyalomarine 3%
Gel placebo
www.grolman-personalcare.com22
Natural-Based Active Ingredients
AFA-GSAFA-GS derives from a selective extraction of
Klamath Alga (Aphanizomenon flos-aquae =
AFA) that grows in the Klamath Lake in Oregon
(USA). The dermatological properties of its active
ingredients are:
■ Multifunctional activity
■ Anti-pollution activity (elimination of heavy metals)
■ Anti-inflammatory activity
■ Anti-oxidant activity
■ DNA protection
■ Cosmos approved
Phenylethylamine (PEA) Anti-Stress Activity
Phenylethylamine, present in AFA-GS, is also called the love or happiness molecule, as it functions as a
monoaminergic neuromodulator and, to a lesser extent, a neurotransmitter in the human central nervous
system. It helps to lower environment-derived stress to the immune system, and related skin reactions.
Skin Elasticity
The good preservation of Mitochondrial DNA has been shown in an in vivo study by the increase and lasting of
skin elasticity for many hours after the application of a gel containing 2% AFA-GS.
Phycocyanin-C (Anti-Oxidant Activity)
Phycocyanin-C, present in AFA-GS, shows a very important anti-oxidant power.
Anti-Inflammatory Activity
An in vitro study was performed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory activity of AFA-GS (determination of TNF-α
concentration released into the culture medium). THP-1 cells were incubated for 2 hours with a sample
containing different concentrations of AFA-GS. Later, THP-1 cells were stimulated to produce pro-inflammatory
cytokines (TNF-α) with LPS [100 µg/L] for 1 hour.
The results show that AFA-GS is able to reduce TNF-α concentration induced by LPS (lipopolysaccharide) in comparison to the control sample (Ctrl-). AFA-GS also shows an important anti-inflammatory activity making it suitable for sensitive and stressed skin.
The elasticity of the skin was increased during time. The blank is pure water. The value of the standard is constant. The elasticity of the skin is expressed as a deformation in N/m. AFA-GS showed a high skin elasticity power compared to the standard in good ‘vivo’ condition.
Blank [N/m] AFA-GS [N/m]
50
40
30
10
20
Skin elasticity [N/m]
T0 T30 T1600
The experimental conditions were: LPS sample (cells treated with LPS); Ctrl- sample (cells not treated with LPS); AFA-GS sample (cells treated with AFA-GS and then stimulated with LPS);
30
10
20
tnf-α (in pg/ml)
LPS AFA-GS (1.5%)
Ctrl- AFA-GS (1%)
AFA-GS (2.5%)
AFA-GS (0.25%)
AFA-GS (3%)
AFA-GS (0.5%)
AFA-GS (2%)
AFA-GS (0.125%)
0
23www.grolman-personalcare.com
AFA-GS 0.5mm
AFA-GS 1.5mm
AFA-GS 2.5mm
AFA-GS 5mm
70
60
50
40
30
10
20
Moisturising test (skin dielectric constant [F/m]) at different skin depths
T0 T30 T1600
Moisturising test (skin dielectric constant [F/m]) at different skin depths
&
Glyceryl Glucoside Multilevel Skin Moisturising
AFA-GS is an extraordinary source of Glyceryl Glucoside. In substance, Glyceryl Glucoside allows keeping a
sufficient quantity of bonded water also in very dehydrating conditions. Glyceryl Glucoside effectiveness has
been shown in vivo by a hydration test (Delfin Hydra meter system) at different skin depths and at different
times after the application of a gel (AFA-GS 2%).
Protective action against blue light
It is now recognised that non-UV-containing light particularly in the violet-blue portion of the visible spectrum
(400–500 nm) may be responsible for most of the adverse effects caused by the entirety of visible light. It is
collectively referred to as blue light in most current research. Similar to the effects of visible light, the effects of blue
light irradiation in skin cells includes the formation of ROS and other adverse effects of blue light that are most likely
a consequence of ROS.
CR&D evaluated the protective activity of AFA-GS against blue light by in vitro testing its effectiveness in preventing
the formation of reactive oxygenated species (ROS) responsible for skin aging. The fluorescence is directly
proportional to the quantity of ROS produced by the cells. Percentages were calculated based on the measured
fluorescence values and the percentage of reduction of ROS compared to the irradiated negative control (NC,
untreated cells).
The test shows how the skin’s dielectric constant is directly proportional to the water content in the measured tissue. The measured value increases when the water content increases.
The sample shows protective action against blue light (significant reduction % of ROS) at tested concentrations of 0.625, 0.3125 and 0.156 mg/ml. The protective action is of 16.27%, 10.18% and 13.37%, respectively.
Product name Preservatives INCI Application
AFA-GS Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sucrose (and) Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae (AFA) Powder
Skin Care
0,4
0,6
0,5
0,7
0,3
0,2
0,1
00.625 0.3125 0.156
Sig
nifi
can
t re
du
ctio
n %
of
RO
S
AFA-GS
Evaluation of the protective action against blue light % of ROS at different concentration of AFA-GS (mg/ml)
www.grolman-personalcare.com24
Natural-Based Active Ingredients
Glycosnail VEGGlycosnail VEG is a plant-based enriched mucopolysaccharide complex that shows all healing and cosmetic
properties of snail slime, but fulfills all vegan compliances.
■ Anti-stretch mark activity
■ Stimulates the renewal and regularisation of keratinocytes thanks to glycoprotein
■ Minimises the damage generated by free radicals thanks to copper peptide composition
■ Deep moisturiser and surface protection thanks to hyaluronic acid composition
■ Cosmos approved
The stretch mark/scar area is reduced by 5% after 56 days of product use.
T0 T56 days T0 T56 days
In vivo test: Anti-stretch marks and small scars
An in-vivo test was performed to evaluate the reduction of stretch marks and small scars using a cosmetic
product containing 10% Glycosnail VEG.
25www.grolman-personalcare.com
&
Product name Preservatives INCI Application
Glycosnail VEG Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate Aqua (and) Glycoprotein (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminglycans (and) Copper Gluconate (and) Sodium PCA
Body Care
After 120h
Untreated cells 0.056 mg/ml 0.120 mg/ml 0.250 mg/ml
After 120h we observed a complete approximation of the wound edges especially at tested concentrations of 0.250 and 0.120 mg/ml.
After 24h
Untreated cells 0.056 mg/ml 0.120 mg/ml 0.250 mg/ml
After 24h, we observed an approximation of the wound edges in treated samples, particularly evident at tested concentrations of 0.250 mg/ml
After 48h
Untreated cells 0.056 mg/ml 0.120 mg/ml 0.250 mg/ml
After 48h we observed an almost complete approximation of wound edges in treated samples at tested concentrations of 0.250 and 0.120 mg/ml.
In vivo test: Stimulate wound healing
www.grolman-personalcare.com26
Natural-Based Active Ingredients
Hydrafeel-3Hydrafeel-3 is an active ingredient effective in hair care products. It provides very good colour protection results
and helps to maintain an intense colour lasting with an effective protection against heat. Thanks to its small
molecular size, Hydrafeel-3 can penetrate into the hair structure and maintain a soft and brilliant touch.
Colour variation
The colour variation of hair locks was measured by using a colour spectrophotometer machine and ΔE *ab
value. With it we can show colour differences between natural hair locks (without Hydrafeel-3) and treated hair
locks (with Hydrafeel-3).
For results of less than 30% from the initial value (T0’), the ΔE* ab is considered negative, signifying considerable insufficient colour resistance.
We observed a sufficient colour resistance until the 4th washing and 4th radiation for hair locks treated with 0.2% of hydrafeel-3. On the other side, this resistance is only available until the 1st washing and the 1st radiation for the untreated hair locks.
■ Skin Moisturising
■ Skin Emollient
■ Hair Protectant
■ Hair Colour Protectant
■ Hair Conditioner
■ Cosmos approved
∆E*
ab
12
10
8
6
4T0‘:
after hair colour
T4W: after 4th washing
T1W: after 1st washing
T4R: after 4th radiation
T1R: after 1st radiation
T8W: after 8th washing
T8R: after 8th radiation
Colour variation of average hair locks
Untreated hair locks
Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)
Insufficient colour resistance (ΔE*>30%)
Gloss factor
We observed a better gloss with hair locks treated with 0.2% of Hydrafeel-3 than with the untreated hair locks.
0.7
0.6
0.5
0.4T0‘:
without hair colour
T4W: after 4th washing
T1W: after 1st washing
T0‘: after hair
colour
T4R: after 4th radiation
T1R: after 1st radiation
T8W: after 8th washing
T8R: after 8th radiation
Gloss factor of average hair locks
Untreated hair locks
Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)
27www.grolman-personalcare.com
&
Colour uniformityThe colour uniformity is evaluated by using a uniformity scale where 0 is the minimum value (non-uniform locks) and 4 is the maximum value (very uniform locks).
Hair locks, treated with 0.2% of Hydrafeel-3, keep a uniform colour during testing phase. Without Hydrafeel-3 treatment, hair locks lose uniformity after 4th radiation.
Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)
Untreated hair locks
Un
iform
ity s
cale
43.5
32.5
21,.5
0.51
0
Colour uniformity of average hair locks
T1W: after 1st washing
T1R: after 1st radiation
T4W: after 4th washing
T4R: after 4th radiation
T8W: after 8th washing
T8R:after 8thradiation
Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)
Untreated hair locks
Un
iform
ity s
cale
43.5
32.5
21,.5
0.51
0
Colour uniformity of average hair locks
T1W: after 1st washing
T1R: after 1st radiation
T4W: after 4th washing
T4R: after 4th radiation
T8W: after 8th washing
T8R:after 8thradiation
Hair resistance to breakageThe force was measured with a dynamometer which measures both the force (Newton) needed to break hair (this measurement is performed on a single hair) and the force needed to comb it (measurement on the entire hair lock). It’s an index of hair weakness.
MoisturisingThe short term moisturising effectiveness of a gel containing Hydrafeel-3 at 1% was determined in an in vivo study on 10 subjects. The gel was applied on the subjects’ forearms and the hydration was assessed with the equipment Corneometer at baseline, after 30 minutes and after 12 hours of application of the product. The results show an increase of the skin hydration after 30 minutes and after 12 hours of product’s application.
T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)
0.97
0.92
0.87
0.77
0.82
Hair resistance to breakage
Treated hair (1% Hydrafeel-3)
Untreated hair0.72
New
ton
T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)
0.97
0.92
0.87
0.77
0.82
Hair resistance to breakage
Treated hair (1% Hydrafeel-3)
Untreated hair0.72
New
ton
Hair structure resistance
After 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C) on hair treated with 1% of hydrafeel-3, the average hair resistance opposed to breakage does not change significantly. For the untreated hair, this resistance decreases by 7% after 3 passages of straightener (statistically significant).
After 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C), the treated hair with 1% of Hydrafeel-3 seems normal. The untreated hair appears drier and more brittle after the passage of the plate.
Treated hair (1% Hydrafeel-3): Untreated hair:
T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)
T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)
Product name Preservatives INCI Application
Hydrafeel-3 Free Polyglyceryl-3 PCA Hair CareBody CareSkin Care
70
60
50
30
40
Hydration (A.U.)
Baseline 30 minutes 12 hours
20
10
0
www.grolman-personalcare.com28
Natural-Based Active Ingredients
TarchoplusTarchoplus combines the essential oil of Tarchonanthus Camphoratus with Helichrysum Angustifolium
flower extract and 4-terpineol creating an effective product to enhance sports performance. Tarchonanthus
Camphoratus, a native plant from Eastern Africa is combined with Helichrysum Angustifolium which grows
wild in Europe. Both plants are known for their anti-inflammatory and soothing properties due to the presence
of monoterpen compounds. Monoterpens are known for their anti-oxidant properties and cooling effect which
potentiate the muscle recovery after physical exercise.
Sports performance enhancer
The increased presence of lactic acid usually causes serum accumulation in tissue giving rise to muscle
contractions. The oedema decreases the efficiency of the blood microcirculation and increases the
accumulation of toxins.
In vivo tests have been carried out on professional football players who massaged their legs with an oil
containing 0.3% of Tarchonanthus Camphoratus oil. The players showed an improvement in resistance, effort
over time and a remarkable recovery and decreased weariness, also accelerating the recovery time. This
shows that Tarchonanthus Camphoratus plays an adjuvant action in the elimination of lactic acid and toxins.
Tarchoplus is a product rich in monoterpens and therefore reduces the muscles wear out and allows the body
to recover more rapidly due to the cooling effect, anti-oxidant, soothing and anti-oedema properties of its main
components.
Anti-inflammatory activity
The in vitro evaluation of anti-inflammatory potential of Tarchoplus on psoriatic skin model was determined.
The objective of this assay was to quantitatively assess the effects of Tarchoplus in protecting skin cells and in
inhibiting the inflammatory reaction in psoriatic in vitro skin cell model. The inhibition of interleukine IL-1α and
IL-6 following exposure to the tested substance was investigated and compared to untreated skin samples.
The sample caused a 95.6% reduction of IL release compared to negative control, it was considered as an
index of an anti-inflammatory skin activity of the sample.
■ Sports performance enhancer
■ Repairing
■ Anti-oedema
■ Soothing
29www.grolman-personalcare.com
&
IL-1α release results
IL-6 release results
Product name Preservatives INCI Applications
Tarchoplus Free Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Tarchonanthus Camphoratus Oil (and) 4-Terpineol (and) Helichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract
Massage OilSport Products
300
33.5
4
250
2.5
150
1.5
200
2
IL-1α Total Release (pg/ml)
IL-6 Total Release (pg/ml)
Tarchoplus 4%
Tarchoplus 4%
Calcipotriol 0.005%
Calcipotriol 0.005%
PBS
PBS
100
1
50
0.5
0
0
www.grolman-personalcare.com30
Metallic Effect Pigments
Schlenk is an internationally successful family enterprise founded in 1879. Worldwide, Schlenk employs
about 1000 members of staff and is a leading international manufacturer of metal powders, pigments
and foils.
Schlenk is the expert in high-quality effect pigments and their respective formulation know-how. Metallic
effect pigments are used particularly to offer a unique look to cosmetic products.
Alegrace® MarvelousAlegrace® Marvelous is designed for nail polish
producers. It is a range of eye-catching vacuum-
metallised pigment (VMP) suspensions for solvent
and water-based nail polish. It offers outstanding
mirror-like effects, in shades from bright silver
to platinum. Combined with colorants, stunning
colourful metallic effects can be achieved.
Alegrace® Marvelous stands out with excellent
opacity properties.
■ Pure or different colour shade with mirror-like effect
■ Excellent opacity
■ High efficiency due to low pigmentation level
Alegrace® LustrousAlegrace® Lustrous is designed for nail polish
producers. It is a range based on aluminium flitters
with a big particle size to obtain a sparkling glitter
effect.
■ Sparkling glitter effect
■ Can be mixed with Alegrace® Spectacular
in order to maximise the effect
Grade INCI Name Solid Content Solvent Particle Size Morphology Application Appearance
Alegrace® Marvelous 01-01
Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Acetate, CI 77000
10% Ethyl Acetate
12 μm VMP Solvent-based nail polish
Bright silver mirror-like effect
Alegrace® Marvelous 01-02
Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Acetate, CI 77000
10% Ethyl Acetate
12 μm VMP Solvent-based nail polish
Platinum mirror-like effect
Alegrace® Marvelous 01-03
Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Acetate, CI 77000
10% Ethyl Acetate
12 μm VMP Solvent-based nail polish
Whitish metallic mirror-like effect
Alegrace® Marvelous 01-04
Aqua, CI 77000, Isopropyl Alcohol
10% Water-stabilised
12 μm VMP Water-based nail polish
Bright silver effect
Grade INCI Name Solid Content Particle Size Morphology Application Appearance
Alegrace® Lustrous 03-01
CI 77000 100% 250 μm Flitter Solvent-Based Nail PolishUV Gels & UV Nail PolishNail Decoration
Coarse sparkling particles
Alegrace® Lustrous 03-02
CI 77000 100% 380 μm Flitter Solvent-Based SystemsUV Gels & UV Nail PolishNail Decoration
Very coarse sparkling particles
Alegrace® Spectacular Alegrace® Spectacular is designed for colour
cosmetics, nail polish, and personal care products.
It is a range of special-effect pigments that offer
polychromatic optical properties and transform
every cosmetic product into a real highlight! Various
particle sizes allow for instantly eye-catching or
rather subtle effects.
Alegrace® Spectacular can be used together with
any pigments. Due to its transparent powder form
Alegrace® Aurous Alegrace® Aurous is a range of golden Ultra-Thin
Pigments (UTP) for colour cosmetics, nail polish
and personal care products. Alegrace® Aurous
offers a variety of natural gold shades with strong
colour saturation, extraordinary flop and excellent
opacity. In combination with transparent colour or
effect pigments various warm colour shades can be
created. For the perfect golden shine!
■ Excellent opacity
■ Natural, deep gold shades
■ Outstanding metallic brilliance and flop
■ Can be mixed with pigments to achieve a large
range of gold and warm colour shades
■ Flawless, non-flaky effects
Grade INCI Name Solid Content Particle Size Application Morphology Appearance
Alegrace® Spectacular 04-01
Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, CI 77000
100% 35 μm
Colour cosmeticsSolvent-based nail polishWater-based nail polishUV gels & UV nail polishNail decoration
Holographic Fine polychromatic light sparks
Alegrace® Spectacular 04-02
Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, CI 77000
100% 150 μm Holographic Coarse poly chromatic light sparks
Alegrace® Spectacular 04-03
Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, CI 77000
100% 20 µm Holographic Very fine polychromatic light sparks
Grade INCI Name Solid Content Particle Size Application Morphology Appearance
Alegrace® Aurous 02-01
CI 77491, Silica, CI 77000
100% 18 μm Colour CosmeticsSolvent-Based Nail PolishUV Gels & UV Nail PolishNail Decoration
UTP Opaque, greenish gold metallic effect
it adds a spectacular finish to every coloured
cosmetic product!
■ Very attractive polychromatic effect
■ Can be mixed with colour pigments without
modifying this colour
■ Powder form: can be used in many applications
■ 3 different particle sizes
www.grolman-personalcare.com32
Complex Esters
Temix Oleo combines its experience in the distribution of raw materials, selected mainly from
renewable sources, with the technology and the long-standing experience in the esters and fatty acids
production.
Temest 125 LT (C12-15 Alkyl Lactate)Temest 125 LT ester is an emollient that can deliver
a variety of benefits to sunscreens, lip balms, colour
cosmetics, creams, lotions and other personal
care products. Used to reduce the tackiness and
greasiness of components such as petrolatum, this
ester imparts a non-oily lubricity to hydro-alcoholic
products. It is easy to emulsify and is compatible
with many systems, especially in pH neutral
formulations. Temest 125 LT is also a functional
ingredient thanks to its keratolytic activity and its
ability to bring smoothness and softness to skin.
In hair care, its use in conditioners will be ideal
thanks to the lactic part affinity with keratin. In
shampoo, this ester will help to increase the
viscosity.
Temest T20 (Coco Caprylate/Caprate)Temest T20 is a medium spread emollient with low
viscosity. It is non-toxic, green and non-irritating to
eyes and skin. It is effective in reducing blackheads.
This ester is a green solution for silicon oil
replacement. It offers an excellent compatibility with
the skin and cosmetic raw materials.
Temest J30 (Diethylheyxyl Sebacate)This saturated ester has very good oxidation stability,
is efficient at solubilising pigments and UV filters,
giving a high shine. Imparts a pleasant, non sticky
feel, with very good play time and lubrication.
Temest J05 (Diethylheyxyl Adipate)This saturated ester has very good oxidation stability.
It provides a matte finish to the formulations and
allows a very good solubilisation of pigments and UV
filters. It provides good lubrication and reduces sticky
feel. Moreover, as the chain is shorter, the touch will
be lighter and the “play time” shorter.
33www.grolman-personalcare.com
Classical and Complex Esters
Product name INCI Characteristics
Temest 125 LT C12-15 Alkyl Lactate Reduces tackiness and greasinessHigh conditioningBrings viscosity in surfactant systems
Temest T20 Coco Caprylate/Caprate Green solution for silicon oil replacement
Temest J30 Diethylheyxyl Sebacate Brings shineVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments
Temest J05 Diethylheyxyl Adipate Brings matt effectVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments
Commercial Name INCI Name Cos
met
ic E
mul
sion
Liqu
id E
mul
sion
Lotio
n
Ligh
t C
osm
etic
Bab
y O
il
Dec
orat
ive
– M
ake-
Up
Skin
Cre
am
Sun
Car
e / P
rote
ctio
n
Mas
sage
Oil
Skin
Car
e
Deo
dora
nt &
Ant
iper
spira
nt
Eleg
ant
Skin
Car
e Pr
oduc
ts
Suita
ble
for
Pigm
ent
Dis
pers
ion
Emul
sion
W/O
Solv
ent
for
Lipi
dic
Act
ive
Ingr
edie
nt
Day
Cre
am
Hai
r C
are
Trea
tmen
t
Spre
adin
g
Temest 2EHP Ethylhexyl Palmitate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest 2EHS Ethylhexyl Stearate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest ALB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ high
Temest CTN Cetearyl Isononanoate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest DO V Decyl Oleate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest 810 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest PDGE Propylene Glycol Caprylic/Capric ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest IPIS Isopropyl Isosteatate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ high
Temest PTIS Pentaerythrithyl Tetraisostearate ■ ■ ■ low
Temest GMIS Glyceryl Monoisostearate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ low
Temest TEC Triethyl Citrate ■ ■ ■ ■ light
Temest CTE Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium
Temest CTP Cetyl Palmitate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ low
Temest GMO Glyceryl Oleate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ low
www.grolman-personalcare.com34
Temcare SG (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate)Temcare SG is an anionic O/W amino acid type
emulsifier, compatible with cationic ingredients,
salts or actives. It has an excellent emulsifying
effect at low dosage. The developed emulsion will
be very stable without any viscosity variation. It
can also form a lamellar liquid crystal emulsion that
will improve moisturising thanks to its comparable
structure with skin. Temcare SG can be added to
the oil or water phase and can be used in cold
or hot process. In addition, Temcare is a good
choice in a pure amino acid facial cleanser. It can
also be combined with Temcare CG or other mild
surfactants to produce a paste facial cleanser.
Temcare GLY (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate)Glycine is one of the main free amino acids whose
levels drop significantly during normal surfactant
use. Temcare GLY is a 30% active cleansing agent
Product name INCI Characteristics
Temcare SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Anionic O/W emulsifierForms lamellar liquid crystal emulsionsCold or hot process
Temcare GLY Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Mild surfactantGlycine derivateCreamy foamLeaves fresh feeling
Temcare CG Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Mild surfactantSmooth and soft feelingImproves hair condition
Temest S3 Sodiun Laureth Sulfosuccinate Mild surfactant
Temcare SL Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Mild surfactant
APG 810 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside Mild surfactant
APG 814M Coco Glucoside Mild surfactant
APG 1214 Lauryl Glucoside Mild surfactant
Emulsifiers and Mild Surfactants
based on Glycine, the simplest amino acid, and
coconut fatty acids. It helps to recover the normal
level of glycine on skin. Its creamy resilient foam is
obtained under neutral to alkaline conditions. The
foam obtained with Temcare GLY has an equivalent
foam level as Temcare LS (Sodium Lauroyl
Sarcosinate) but creamier and with a good starting
foam. This product leaves a fresh feeling on skin
after washing without taut feeling.
Temcare CG (Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate)Temcare CG is an anionic surfactant of amino acid
category. It’s an ideal ingredient applied in personal
cleaning products, and is mild and leaves skin feeling
smooth and soft. It’s also non-irritant, non-allergic,
non-comedogenic and is resistant to hard water.
In shampoos, glutamate improves hair strength.
35www.grolman-personalcare.com
Innovative Emulsifiers
Aqdot® is a Cambridge (UK)-based performance chemistry company with a focus and expertise in
developing, licensing and selling novel proprietary products. Aqdot’s proprietary technology and
knowhow enables materials to be captured, held and released on demand. In unique and proprietary
formulations, the chemistry has the potential to be game-changing in a wide range of industries,
including household and personal care products, fragrances, industrial chemicals, agrochemicals,
and pharmaceuticals. Identifying unmet needs in these sectors, Aqdot develops products that enable
customers to introduce novel and differentiated brands, reduce manufacturing costs and make a truly
positive impact on the environment.
Aq™Star M1Aq™Star is a naturally-derived, high-performing
emulsifier that has the sensory benefits of naturals
and the stability of synthetics. Aq™Star M1
formulations have soft, silky skin feel and “powder
dry” after-feel, even in high oil systems. Emulsions
created using Aq™Star M1 have exceptional stability
with a wide range of emollients and oils.
■ O/W emulsion
■ Innovation technology: Innovative Aq™Bit technology
®
Product INCI Name Characteristics Use Level Form
Aq™Star M1 Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Cucurbiturils
Creates very stable emulsion with high level of oils, a variety of oils and difficult components like aloe vera.Creates excellent skin feel and sensory benefits of natural emulsifiers.
1-10% Solid
Significantly more stable than lipophilic starch
Initial
Vo
lum
e In
ten
sity
% 15
10
5
0Size µm0.1 1 10 100
1 Week at 45°C
Vo
lum
e In
ten
sity
% 15
10
5
0Size µm
0.1 1 10 100
AqTMStar
Natural Competitor
www.grolman-personalcare.com36
Silicone Elastomers and Fluoro Silicones
Basel aims to be the best in the industry through its strong financial structure and high technological
level. Founded in 1999, it was the first Korean producer of cosmetic silicone gel and silicone water
repellent, previously only imported. Basel has expanded its research and development for cosmetic
silicone gel and other industries and is expanding to launch better products with world-class
technology. In this rapidly changing global market, Basel develops its products in an innovative way
according to the needs of its customers and produces, supplies and supports its customers with
differentiated quality products. Basel is always trying to help the industry thrive by creating more
patents and improving technology.
Fluoro Silicones Inclusion of fluoro groups into the silicone backbone
results in the lowering of surface tension and
increased spreadability when compared to the non-
fluoro dimethicone of the same molecular weight.
Fluoro silicones can be used in many applications.
In skin care, they provide skin protection, reduce
the feeling of stickiness, improve the skin’s water-
repellent appearance, enhance the skin feeling,
reduce the soapy effect of certain emulsions, and
help the skin close pores.
In hair care, they act as an additive in 2-in-1
shampoos, improve shine and ensure optimum
combing on wet hair.
In make-up, they add shine, improve pigment
dispersion and help to spread mascara.
■ Extraordinary skin feeling
■ Oil, water repellent
■ Long-lasting effect
■ Heat resistance
Product INCI Name Characteristics Viscosity (cPs) Form
SF-30 Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone
Extraordinary skin feeling 200-1000 (25°C) Clear and slightly viscous liquid
SF-30 EM Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Steareth-2, Steareth-20, Water
Water soluble 10 White liquid emulsion
TFL-30 Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone
Cost reduction 100 Homogeneous clear liquid
37www.grolman-personalcare.com
Silicone Gel Elastomers ■ Enhance skin feeling
■ Many applications: skin care, hair care, sun care, make-up
Product INCI Name Characteristics Viscosity (cPs) Form
BSG-200S Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin care 60000-120000 Homogeneous and turbid gel
BSG-650 DF Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone
Skin care 10000-60000 Very viscous and clear gel
Puresil-210M Dimethicone, Water, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol
Skin care 20000-80000 Homogeneous and slighty viscous emulsion
Puresil-D308 Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin care 50000-100000 Homogeneous and very slightly turbid gel
Puresil-CH M01 Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin care 200000-300000 Very viscous gel
BSG-5041 Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Make-up 300000-500000 Very viscous and slightly turbid gel
BSG-260 Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Hair care 70000-200000 Viscous and turbid gel
www.grolman-personalcare.com38
Performance Thickeners
Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Acrypol ET-28 Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Excellent salt toleranceExcellent suspension and stabilisation propertiesExcellent thickening and flow controlClear and transparent gelEffective pH: 6.0-12.0
1-10% 30% liquid dispersion
Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form
Acryset Superhold II Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer Anionic acrylates copolymerVery easy to useNo tackiness or stickinessUltra-stiff hold and high shineSuperior high humidity resistanceUV stableNo colour changeLong lasting hold
1-10% 30% liquid dispersion
Corel Pharma Chem is one of the world’s renowned and fastest growing companies in the field of acrylic
based specialty polymers supplied into pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetic and food industry
sectors. It was established in 1990 and is located in India’s largest Chemical belt i.e. Ahmedabad
(Gujarat). Corel Pharma Chem dedicates itself to offering cutting edge polymer technology solutions. The
company strives to be market leader in the industry sectors served by focusing on R&D. Corel Pharma
Chem has a footprint in more than 35 countries and by its continuous efforts, new innovations and
better services, the company satisfies its customers’ expectations and thus is always one step ahead.
Acrypol ET-28 Acrypol ET-28 has been specially designed to help
formulators achieve a luxurious, transparent and
glossy gel that can be used in any application.
Acrypol ET-28 is a liquid that thickens instantly when
neutralised, making handling easier, improving the
manufacturing process and saving time. Acrypol
ET-28 is designed for clear formulations and is
compatible with non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric
surfactants as well as electrolytes.
■ Easy to disperse
■ Low percentage needed to obtain good viscosity
■ Compatible with surfactant systems and emulsions
■ Economical
Acryset Superhold IIAcryset Superhold II is a cross-linked film forming
polymer comprising of hair fixative and thickening
properties. This dual property requires no addition
of hair fixative or thickener, which makes the
production easy and cost effective. However, if
required, traditional thickeners can be used along
with Acryset Superhold II. It shows synergistic
effects with no viscosity drop, therefore, less
thickener is required.
Acryset Superhold II is a replacement of traditional
fixative as well as a thickener (PVP+Carbomer) in
hair styling formulations. It gives maximum holding
capacity and clarity above pH 7.
■ Hair fixative agent
■ Efficient thickener
39www.grolman-personalcare.com
Talc
Naturally occurring silicate mineral of magnesium with soothing
and skin protectant properties.
MondanaMondo Minerals is a leading multinational producer of industrial talc founded in 1968, with a long history of
innovation, quality, reliability and customer satisfaction. Mondo has gained the trust of companies worldwide
by providing excellent know-how, products and services.
Mondana talc is a high-purity magnesium silicate hydrate, which is European Pharmacopoeia compliant and
asbestos free and is supplied sterilised (HT – heat-treated). It is a 100% natural, pure and ultra-fine talc with
excellent skin protection properties. Mondana talc soothes even delicate skin and imparts a fresh, smooth
and enhanced skin feeling to many types of Skin Care formulations. Mondo recently developed new products
as scrubs. They propose 3 different particles size: 250 µm, 500 µm and 710 µm. You can easily substitute PE
beads.
■ Soothing
■ Skin Protectant
■ Anti-Microbial Agent
■ Skin Feel Enhancer
■ Exfoliating Agent
Product Name INCI Characteristics Application Form
Mondana 8 HT
Talc
Medium particle size D50 = 2.3 ± 0.6 µm Hair Styling Gels
Powder
Mondana 15 HT Medium particle size D50 = 5.5 ± 2.0 µm Facial CreamsBB & CC CreamsFacial MasksBody CreamsSunscreens
Mondana 35 HT Medium particle size D50 = 10 ± 2 µm Talcum PowdersAntiperspirants/DeodorantsHair Styling GelsDry ShampoosBody CreamsSunscreens
Mondana 50 HT Medium particle size D50 = 13 ± 4 µm SoapsTalcum PowdersAntiperspirants/DeodorantsDry Shampoos
Mondana Scrub 250 Particle size: 250 µm
Scrubs (Body, Face, Foot…) ScrubsMondana Scrub 500 Particle size: 500 µm
Mondana Scrub 710 Particle size: 710 µm
www.grolman-personalcare.com40
Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid
Since its foundation in 1997, Woosung has been distributing and developing cosmetic raw materials.
As a professional company of cosmetic raw materials, it is constantly researching and developing high
quality raw materials. Woosung always strives to meet your needs.
Hyalpol Moisture Plus Hyalpol Moisture Plus is a cross-linked sodium
hyaluronate. It is a “super moisture” ingredient
derived from hyaluronic acid that restores and
preserves the skin’s suppleness and radiance.
■ Adsorbs to the skin
■ Moisturising and antioxidant properties
■ Excellent after-feel
Product INCI Name Characteristic Form
Hyalpol Moisture Plus Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Cross linked sodium hyaluronateExcellent stability in high temperature
Transparent gel
41www.grolman-personalcare.com
Silver for Antimicrobial Activity
Argenol is a 100% Spanish company established in 1939 as API (Active Pharmaceutical Ingredient)
producer for pharmaceutical industry and medical devices. Argenol is specialised in producing silver-
based products. Argenol has two production plants and both are GMP certified. Today, Argenol exports
to over 60 countries all around the world.
Silver has been used successfully for centuries by ancient civilizations (Roman, Greek and Egyptian) as an
antimicrobial agent to prevent infection and preserve food and water.
Today we know that silver has a broad spectrum antimicrobial activity on many microorganism and has a
low potential to develop resistance. As it does not damage the cutaneous flora, it helps to stabilise the skin
microbiome.
Silver acts in different steps to kill the microorganism: first it will destroy the cell membrane of the
microorganism, then it will inhibit the DNA replication, and finally it will block the cell breathing.
Silver Citrate Solution
Metallic Silver Powder W
Product INCI Name Characteristics Application Form
Silver Citrate Solution Silver Citrate, Citric Acid Cosmos approvedEasy to formulateFast activityAntimicrobial & Deodorant activityWater soluble transparent liquidOptimum pH<5Dosage recommended: 0.1-1%
DeodorantsToiletriesFoot CareIntimate HygieneSkin CareMale ProductsWet Wipes
Transparent liquid
Product INCI Name Characteristics Application Form
Metallic Silver Powder W Silver Cosmos certifiedGMPWhite powderDosage recommended: 0.05-0.3%
DeodorantsToiletriesFoot CareIntimate HygieneOral CareSkin CareMale ProductsWet Wipes
White powder
■ Antimicrobial activity
■ Non-irritating
■ Aluminium free
■ Prevents the formation of unpleasant odours
■ Replaces triclosan
■ Ionic silver has a fast activity
■ Antimicrobial activity
■ Non-irritating
■ Aluminium free
■ Metallic silver has a long time effect
www.grolman-personalcare.com42
Precipitated Calcium Carbonate
High-purity precipitated calcium carbonate with multiple cosmetic functionalities
such as an emulsion stabiliser.
CalprecCales de Llierca is a Spanish producer of precipitated calcium carbonate (PCC). They are part of Calcinor, a
leading manufacturer of high-quality lime products.
PCC is a high-purity calcium carbonate made by direct carbonation of hydrated lime. Compared to standard
ground calcium carbonates (GCC), PCC is distinguished for its ability to achieve smaller and more uniform
particle sizes, greater stability and offers narrower granulometric distribution, higher specific surface area,
highest purity and lower abrasiveness.
Due to these homogeneous properties, PCC is often used as an emulsion stabiliser in facial masks,
sunscreens and hand and foot creams. PCC is also used as an abrasive in toothpastes and as a stabiliser in dry
shampoos.
■ Emulsion stabiliser
■ Stabiliser in dry Shampoo
■ Abrasive in toothpastes
Product Name INCI Characteristics Application Form
Calprec PA E-170 Calcium Carbonate High specific surface areaHigh purityUniform particle sizeLow abrasiveness
Facial MasksHand & Foot CreamsSunscreensToothpastesDry Shampoos
Powder
Parameter Calprec PA
Crystalline structure > 98.5% calcite
Calcium (CaCO3) > 98.5%
Residual alkalinity < 0.5%
Average particle diameter (D4,3)
1.4-2.0 µm
Moisture content < 1%
Whiteness relative to MgO (R457 filter)
> 95%
Chromium < 10 ppm
Lead < 3 ppm
Arsenic < 1 ppm
43www.grolman-personalcare.com
Iron Blue Pigment
Orion Engineered Carbons is one of the world’s leading suppliers of carbon black and other specialised
pigments. The company operates 14 global production sites and four Applied Technology Centres,
focusing on quality supply and collaborative partnerships with customers.
Dark blue, called the first of the modern pigments, has very high tinting strength and shows excellent
dispersibility in dry formulations.
Iron BlueVossen-Blau® 750 LSX is a micronised greenish-blue
pigment, which shows excellent dispersibility in dry
formulations. Due to the high degree of fineness, it
provides optimum colour strength. According to ISO
2495, this group of pigments is classified as “iron
blue”. Alternative names are Prussian Blue, Berlin
Blue or Milori Blue.
■ Colour index generic name: Pigment Blue 27
■ Colour index constitution no. 77510
■ CAS no.: 25869-00-5, 14038-43-8
Vossen-Blau® 750 LSX is an uncoated grade of iron
blue supplied in a micronised form, and is designed
to be used as a colorant in Decorative Cosmetic
products. Vossen-Blau® 750 LSX is listed in the
following directories:
■ EINECS: 247-304-1/237-875-5
■ ECL: KE 01695/KE 16966
■ MITI: No. 1-133
■ TSCA, DSL, AICS, PICCS, IECSC, INCI
■ Purity of shade
■ High tinting strength
■ Uncoated grade
■ Micronised
■ Excellent dispersibility
■ Conforms to ISO 2495 and fulfils FDA requirements
■ (CFR Title 21, Part 73, Sec. 73.)
F o c u s e d. I n n o v a t i v e. R e s p o n s i v e .
Physical Properties
Relative tinting strength (ISO 787-24) 100 ± 10%
Volatile matter at 105 °C (ISO 787-2) ≤ 5.0%
Water-extractable content (ISO 787-3) < 1.2%
pH (ISO 787-3) 3-6
Average particle size 0.34 µm
Specific surface area (typical value) 69 m2/g
Masstone light fastness (ISO 105, B01) 8
Product Grades INCI Name Colour Application
Iron Blue Vossen-Blau® 750 LSX CI 77510 Blue Mascara, Eye Liner, Eye Shadow, Blusher, Loose Powder, Lip Gloss (*), Lipstick (*), Nail Polish
(*) Not approved by the FDA for mucous membranes and lip applications
www.grolman-personalcare.com44
Fluorescent and Organic Pigments
DayGlo (Radiant Color/Sterling) is a world leader in the development and production of high-
performance and special-effect pigments, pigment dispersions and resin technology. DayGlo (Radiant
Color/Sterling) offers intelligent solutions based on innovative products and tailor-made services.
Fluorescent pigments enlarge the available colour space and create new and brighter shade
possibilities, either in their pure form or in combination with other colorants.
DermaGlo™
DermaGlo™ cosmetic colorants are a new
range of D&C-grade colorants that enhance the
existing special-effect range due to their high
responsiveness to black light and high chroma.
DermaGlo™ cosmetic colorants are solid solutions
combining certified dyes with a proprietary polymer
matrix. With this technology, it is possible to create
different optical brightening effects.
DermaGlo™ cosmetic colorants are manufactured
according to international cosmetics guidelines for
GMP applications and are suitable for use in a wide
variety of traditional cosmetic products.
These unique shades can be used to enhance or
expand your current cosmetic colour range creating
bright clean colours.
■ Colorants for water, oil and solvent-based systems
■ Easy to blend, process and disperse (no pre-dispersion
required)
■ Better pH stability than dyes or lakes
■ Heavy metal free
■ Non-staining
Grades INCI Name INCI Dye Name Colour Compliance & Application Area
DermaGlo™ EU US Japan
DGS-11Bis(Glycidoxyphenyl)propane/Bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Aluminium Hydroxide, D&C Colorant(s)
CI 45410; CI 45380 Aurora Pink 2(*) L, X L, E, X
DGS-13EC CI 47005; CI 45380; CI 45410 Rocket Red 1(*) L, X L, E, X
DGS-15EC CI 47005; CI 45380; CI 45410 Blaze Orange 1(*) L, X L, E, X
DGS-17 CI 47000 Saturn Yellow (**) 2, 3(*) X X
DGS-19 Bis(Glycidoxyphenyl)propane/Bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Shellac, Aluminium Hydroxide, D&C Colorant(s)
CI 77007 Horizon Blue (**) 1 E, X L, E, X
DGS-20Bis(Glycidoxyphenyl)propane/Bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Aluminium Hydroxide, D&C Colorant(s)
CI 60730; CI 45410 Purple (**) 2, 3 X X
DGS-21 CI 45380; CI 45410 Corona Magenta 2(*) L, X L, E
DGS-531EC CI 47005 Green Shade Yellow 1 L, E, X L, E, X
DGS-00 CI Fluorescent Brightener 230 Fluorescent Illuminator
1 L, E, X L, E, X
EU: 1 = Over all cosmetics, 2 = Not for eye area, 3 = Not for mucus contact; (*) = Not allowed as hair dyesUS/Japan: L = Lip, E = Eye, X = External (**) Not fluorescent colours – not UV-/black light-responsive
45www.grolman-personalcare.com
Iron Oxides
rimana iox iron oxide pigments are produced by one of the world’s leading manufacturers
in the colour industry.
rimana iox “C” Graderimana iox “C” iron oxides are produced by way
of a specialised manufacturing process which
assures the lowest level of heavy metal content;
making them perfect for cosmetic companies
that require the highest purity of all iron oxides
pigment applications.
■ Synthetic high-purity pigments
■ Comply with requirements for all globally recognised
cosmetic and food applications
Grades INCI Name Colour Application
rimana iox ‘C’ grade
Yellow C1000 CI 77492 YellowFoundation, Mascara, Eye Liner, Eye Shadow, Lip Gloss, Lipstick,Nail Polish
Yellow C1001 CI 77492 Yellow
Red C3003 CI 77491 Red
Black C5000 CI 77499 Black
Colour Formula % Fe Length Width m2/g g/100 g pH
rimana iox ‘C’ grade Particle Size (µm) Specific Surface Area Oil Absorption
Yellow C1000 FeOOH 60+ 0.42 0.07 14.50 42.0 6.5
C1001 FeOOH 60+ 0.70 0.17 11.50 42.0 6.5
Red C3003 Fe2O3 68+ 0.09 – 11.00 20.0 6.5
Black C5000 Fe3O4 68+ 0.22 – 5.25 21.0 7.0
Product Series Grades Masstone Reduction
rimana iox ‘C’ Yellow C1000
Yellow C1001
Red C3003
Black 5000
Grolman1855
International Distribution
www.grolman-personalcare.com46
Polyvinyl Alcohol & VA Copolymers
Polyvinyl alcohol & VA copolymers are widely used in Personal Care formulations to impart superior
film forming and adhesion properties.
Selvol™ UltaluxSekisui is a Japanese based company whose vision is to utilise its advanced technologies and quality to
continuously develop the frontiers of “Chemical Solutions”, contributing to people’s lives around the world and
to the global environment.
Selvol™ Ultalux is a range of polyvinyl alcohol and VA copolymers with different viscosities, for creating
innovative formulations that lend distinct performance attributes to cosmetic products. In Skin Care they are
mostly used for their film-forming, viscosity-enhancing and emulsion-stabilising properties, but can also have
an impact on skin moisture and skin tightening. In Hair Care they are also used for their adhesion properties,
acting as hair fixatives.
■ Film former
■ Thickener
■ Hair fixative
Product Name INCI Characteristics Application Form
Selvol™ Ultalux FP
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Low viscosityNon-irritant to the skin
Facial Creams & LotionsBB & CC CreamsFacial SerumsFacial MasksBody Creams & LotionsHand & Foot CreamsSunscreensAfter Sun LotionsShower GelsFacial CleansersToothpastesAntiperspirants/Deodorants Hair ConditionersHair Masks and SerumsHair ShampoosHair Styling Gels
Powder
Selvol™ Ultalux FA Medium viscosityNon-irritant to the skin
Selvol™ Ultalux FF High molecular weight film formerHigh viscosityNon-irritant to the skin
Selvol™ Ultalux AD Vinyl Amine/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer
Film formerEmulsion stabiliserNon-irritant to the skin
Selvol™ Ultalux SC VP/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer
Film formerNon-irritant to the skin
Parameter Selvol™ Ultalux FP Selvol™ Ultalux FA Selvol™ Ultalux FF Selvol™ Ultalux AD Selvol™ Ultalux SC
Brookfield Viscosity(cps, 15% Aqueous Solution, 20ºC)
270-310 5100-5700 22000-26000 450-550 1400-1600
pH of a 4% wt dispersion
4.5-6.5 4.5-6.5 4.5-6.5 11.0-12.0 4.5-7.0
47www.grolman-personalcare.com
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Sigachi was founded in 1989 in India. It is the largest producer of microcrystalline cellulose in India,
having a total production capacity of more than 6,000 MT a year. This company is well-known in
Europe for pharmaceutical grades of microcrystalline cellulose.
Cosmocel™Cosmocel™ as a trademark for Personal Care is exclusively sold by Grolman. Sigachi proposes 3 different sizes
of microcrystalline cellulose beads: 200 µm, 300 µm and 400 µm which can be used on face, body, hands or
feet. The beads have a heterogeneous shape providing a better exfoliation.
Sigachi also proposes 3 different sizes of microcrystalline cellulose powder: 15 µm, 30 µm and 50 µm which
can be used in emulsions to bring a mattifying effect.
Grades INCI Name Appearance Particle Size Application Functionality
Cosmocel™ NS200
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Beads (Heterogeneous shape)
200 µm
Scrubs (Body, Face, Feet…) Exfoliating agent
Cosmocel™ NS300 300 µm
Cosmocel™ NS400 400 µm
Cosmocel™ NS10
Powder
10 µm
Emulsions
Oil absorbentSoft focus effectMattifierOil absorbentSoft focus effectMattifier
Cosmocel™ NS15 15 µm
Cosmocel™ NS30 30 µm
Cosmocel™ NS50 50 µm
■ Exfoliating property
■ Mattifying and oil absorbance properties
www.grolman-personalcare.com48
Ultramarine and Manganese Violet Pigments
Venator is a world leading supplier of ultramarine blue and manganese violet pigments. Over 130
years of manufacture has enabled them to establish an enviable reputation as leaders in ultramarine
technology and experts in the use of ultramarines and manganese violet pigments in a wide variety of
end applications.
Ultramarine occupies a unique place in the world of colour. Its intense beauty has always been highly
valued over centuries by many cultures.
Pigment RangeA range of pigments for cosmetics covers the
spectrum from blue to pink. All the pigments
produce bright, attractive shades both in masstone
and when blended with other pigments. They offer
ultramarines from green-shade blue to violet and
pink as well as manganese violet for the cosmetics
market. The colour of each grade is controlled to a
tight tolerance to ensure excellent batch-to-batch
consistency.
■ Unique, vibrant colour
■ Non-toxic; low trace metal content
■ Easy incorporation into cosmetic formulations
■ Non-staining
■ Worldwide legislation approval (EU: Reg. 1223/2009;
USA: FDA CFR Title 21, Part 73.)
49www.grolman-personalcare.com
Product Grades INCI Name Colour Application
Ultramarine Blue 02 C
CI 77007
Pigment Blue 29
Mascara,Eye Liner,Eye Shadow,Lip Gloss (*),Lipstick (*),Face and Body Paint,Nail Polish
Ultramarine Blue 51 C Pigment Blue 29
Ultramarine Blue 08 C Pigment Blue 29
Ultramarine Blue 05 C Pigment Blue 29
Ultramarine Blue 17 C Pigment Blue 29
Ultramarine Violet 12 C Pigment Violet 15
Ultramarine Pink 19 C Pigment Red 259
Manganese Violet VM 43 CI 77742 Pigment Violet 16
Physical Properties Ultramarine Blues Manganese Violet
02C 51C 08 05C 17C 12C 19C VM43
Specific gravity 2.35 2.35 2.35 2.35 2.30 2.35 2.35 2.90
Average particle size 1.24 µm 1.44 µm 2.14 µm 1.17 µm 1.93 µm 1.64 µm 1.70 µm 0.90 µm
Oil absorption 37.5% 37% 33% 35% 56% 33.5% 33% 33%
Alkali fastness excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent poor
Acid fastness poor poor poor poor excellent poor poor excellent
(*) Not approved by the FDA for mucous membranes and lip applications
50
Grolman Lab Services
Your Technical Support for Success
Every phase in the development of a new Personal Care product is important:
from the selection of each ingredient to the efficacy testing of the finished product.
Grolman laboratories have been established and equipped to help you with this
challenge. In our lab, we can:
Additionally, we have at our disposal a
dedicated team of industry experts who are
on hand to provide valuable independent
testing, application and formulation advice
for all products offered in our Personal
Care portfolio as well as regulatory support
for introducing the end products into the
market.
■ Provide cost-effective solutions for your
technical needs
■ Train our sales and technical people to
facilitate a better dialogue with you
■ Offer testing services which include:
▪ Formulation development or optimisation
▪ Stability testing
▪ Microbiological testing
▪ Safety testing
▪ Efficacy testing
This information and all technical and other advice is based on Grolman’s present knowledge and experience. However, Grolman assumes no liability for such information or advice, including the extent to which such information or advice may relate to third-party intellectual property rights. Grolman reserves the right to make any changes to information or advice at any time, without prior or subsequent notice. Grolman disclaims all representations and warranties, whether express or implied, and shall have no liability for the merchantability of the product or its fitness for a particular purpose (even if Grolman is aware of such purpose), or otherwise. Grolman shall not be responsible for consequential, indirect or incidental damages (including loss of profit) of any kind. It is the customer’s sole responsibility to arrange for the inspection and testing of all products by qualified experts. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorsement of the corresponding product, and does not imply that similar products could not be used.
ALGERIA
Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]
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Grolman Chemikalien Handelsges. mbHTel +43 (662) 87 25 62 [email protected]
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Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] BULGARIA
Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected] CROATIA
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Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] DENMARK
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] ESTONIA
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] FINLAND
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]
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Grolman S.A.S.Tel +33 (4) 77 55 79 [email protected]
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Gustav Grolman GmbH & Co. KGTel +49 (2131) 93 [email protected]
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Grolman E.P.E.Tel +30 (211) 1 98 51 40 [email protected]
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Grolman Kft.Tel +36 (23) 88 40 [email protected] ICELAND
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Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected] ITALY
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MOLDOVA
Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] MONTENEGRO
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Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 [email protected]
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Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]
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Grolman Sp. z o.o.Tel +48 (22) 3 93 11 [email protected] PORTUGAL
Grolman, Lda.Tel +351 (22) 9 4310 [email protected]
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Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 [email protected] SLOVAKIA
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TURKEY
Grolman Kimya Tic. Ltd. Şti.Tel +90 (216) 9 11 83 [email protected] UNITED KINGDOM
Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected]
Grolman Lab Services
Your Technical Support for Success
Every phase in the development of a new Personal Care product is important:
from the selection of each ingredient to the efficacy testing of the finished product.
Grolman laboratories have been established and equipped to help you with this
challenge. In our lab, we can:
Additionally, we have at our disposal a
dedicated team of industry experts who are
on hand to provide valuable independent
testing, application and formulation advice
for all products offered in our Personal
Care portfolio as well as regulatory support
for introducing the end products into the
market.
■ Provide cost-effective solutions for your
technical needs
■ Train our sales and technical people to
facilitate a better dialogue with you
■ Offer testing services which include:
▪ Formulation development or optimisation
▪ Stability testing
▪ Microbiological testing
▪ Safety testing
▪ Efficacy testing
This information and all technical and other advice is based on Grolman’s present knowledge and experience. However, Grolman assumes no liability for such information or advice, including the extent to which such information or advice may relate to third-party intellectual property rights. Grolman reserves the right to make any changes to information or advice at any time, without prior or subsequent notice. Grolman disclaims all representations and warranties, whether express or implied, and shall have no liability for the merchantability of the product or its fitness for a particular purpose (even if Grolman is aware of such purpose), or otherwise. Grolman shall not be responsible for consequential, indirect or incidental damages (including loss of profit) of any kind. It is the customer’s sole responsibility to arrange for the inspection and testing of all products by qualified experts. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorsement of the corresponding product, and does not imply that similar products could not be used.
Grolman1855
International Distribution
ALGERIA
Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]
AUSTRIA
Grolman Chemikalien Handelsges. mbHTel +43 (662) 87 25 62 [email protected]
BELGIUM
Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] BULGARIA
Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected] CROATIA
Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] CZECH REPUBLIC
Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] DENMARK
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] ESTONIA
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] FINLAND
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]
FRANCE
Grolman S.A.S.Tel +33 (4) 77 55 79 [email protected]
GERMANY
Gustav Grolman GmbH & Co. KGTel +49 (2131) 93 [email protected]
GREECE
Grolman E.P.E.Tel +30 (211) 1 98 51 40 [email protected]
HUNGARY
Grolman Kft.Tel +36 (23) 88 40 [email protected] ICELAND
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] IRELAND
Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected] ITALY
Grolman S.r.l.Tel +39 (039) 9 28 03 25 [email protected] LATVIA
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] LITHUANIA
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected]
LUXEMBOURG
Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] MACEDONIA
Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected]
MOLDOVA
Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] MONTENEGRO
Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] MOROCCO
Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]
THE NETHERLANDS
Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 [email protected]
NORWAY
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]
POLAND
Grolman Sp. z o.o.Tel +48 (22) 3 93 11 [email protected] PORTUGAL
Grolman, Lda.Tel +351 (22) 9 4310 [email protected]
ROMANIA
Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] SERBIA
Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 [email protected] SLOVAKIA
Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] SLOVENIA
Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] SPAIN
Grolman Iberia, S.L.Tel +34 (93) 7 50 67 61 [email protected] SWEDEN
Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] SWITZERLAND
Grolman AGTel +41 (61) 5 85 10 [email protected] TUNESIA
Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]
TURKEY
Grolman Kimya Tic. Ltd. Şti.Tel +90 (216) 9 11 83 [email protected] UNITED KINGDOM
Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected]
International Locations
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