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Personally Yours ItinerariesBritain - Bath & the Cotswolds

The Scottish Highlands France - Côte d’ Azur

Normandy & BrittanyRhône-Alpes Region

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Côte d’Azur

Personally Yours®

CÔTE D’AZUR

©MICHELIN from Map No. 989 FrancePermission No. 00-US-003

ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT

BEAULIEU-SUR-MER

MONACO

ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN

MENTON

MANDELIEU-LA NAPOULE

CANNES

ANTIBES

GOURDON

GRASSE

CAP D’ANTIBES

CAGNES-SUR-MER

THE CÔTE D’AZUR IS THE NAME for the most magical stretch of Frenchcoastline along the Mediterranean. Its perfectly proportioned towns, with their rows of palm trees and blue water views, have long attractedvisitors. The resort hotels are some of the finest in the world, many ofwhich were built for English visitors, who claimed the Riviera as a wintervacation destination. Its popularity in summer is, in fact, relatively recent.The more artistically inclined came for the fabled light, including painterslike Picasso, Matisse and Renoir. Today, a visit to the Côte d’Azur is aboutsunbathing, lingering in chic waterside cafes and taking drives into thenearby mountains. It’s about visiting world-class museums that house truemasterpieces of 20th century art by Chagall, Leger and Miro. Wanderingthrough flower markets smelling the deliciously heavy scent ofmimosa and dining on fresh fish and salade Niçoise.Strolling where legions of movie stars have cometo show their films and where writers suchas Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald lingered. Decades after it wasfirst “discovered,” the Côte d’Azur still exerts a powerful appeal.

ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE

8 MilesEAST OF NICEST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT The Villa Ile deFrance, located in this quiet resort town,was built at the turn of the century by theBaroness Euphrussi de Rothschild to househer art and furniture collection. Bequeathedto the Institut de France in 1934, it’s a dazzling trip into the life of a collector and a grand tour of the 18th century. Thatparticular century was the Baroness’ favoriteperiod, and it accounts for a collection of furniture that once belonged to MarieAntoinette, as well as paintings and tapes-tries. The 17 acres of gardens surroundingthe villa include Japanese, Spanish andFlorentine gardens, as well as a Temple ofLove modeled on the original at Versailles.

0.5 MilesBEAULIEU-SUR-MER Stylish, peacefuland quiet, Beaulieu is a relaxing place tostay or simply to spend a few hours. There are two especially lovely walks, oneup to the views from the Sentier du PlateauSt-Michel, the other along the PromenadeMaurice-Rouvier, with magnificent villas on one side, and the glorious sea and coastviews along the other. The Villa Kerylos isa delightful oddity, a reconstruction of aGreek villa by the archeologist TheodoreReinach that is open to visitors.

6 MilesMONACO Very chic yet decidedly oldfashioned as well, the Principality ofMonaco and the Grimaldi family haveearned a special place in the eyes of theworld. Prince Rainier still holds sway in this fairytale kingdom, with its incredibly

beautiful harbor, its discrete hotels andmulti-million dollar condos overlook-

ing the sea. Both Monaco, the oldtown, and Monte Carlo, the newtown, are worth exploring. In thelatter, it’s the famed Casino thatmust be seen, preferably atnight. The oldest part, datingfrom 1878, was built byCharles Garnier, whosebest-known work was asthe designer of the ParisOpera House. TheCasino is a grand space

and a grand spectacle in the evening, suggesting all of the glamour one associateswith the name “Monte Carlo.” In Monaco,explore the old town by daylight and go to the area known as the Rock, where youcan visit the Musée Oceanographique. The aquarium, the zoology hall and artifacts of years of sea-born exploration are well-presented. For royalty lovers, thechanging of the guard occurs daily outsideof the Palais du Prince, a spectacle worthyof the comic-opera stage.

6 MilesROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTINThe old hill town of Roquebrune is still aplace of tradition, no matter that new shopsand galleries join the older shops along itspretty historical streets. It can be a steepclimb but the walking is rewarding. Goalong Rue Moncollet, with its medievalhouses, and be sure to visit Donjon, whichlays claim to being the oldest feudal castlein France. The views from the top aredelightful indeed. In Cap Martin, there’s afamous coastal path that takes in the sea,local villas and what remains of a wilderMediterranean coast.

2 MilesMENTON Menton’s claim to be thewarmest resort on the Riviera is underlinedby the fact that its famous lemons groweven in winter. The terraced slopes withcarefully tended trees that produce thosemarvelous lemons provide a dramatic back-drop for the coastal town. Even if you’reunable to make the annual February lemonfestival, with giant floats festooned with theripe yellow spheres, Menton is a delightfulplace to stroll, especially along the water-front Promenade du Soleil. Not to bemissed is the Musée Jean Cocteau, housedin a 17th century building. The artist andwriter worked there starting in 1957. Stopin at the Hôtel de Ville, the town hall,where Cocteau decorated the marriage hall.

42 MilesWEST OF NICE

MANDELIEU-LA NAPOULE It’s thesmell of mimosas that are most distinctiveabout this small coastal town. It’s mostprevalent in February, during the mimosafestival, which is an excuse to dress upfloats and stage a charming small-townparade in honor of the distinctive yellowflower. But anytime you find yourself here,the decidedly eccentric mansion overlook-ing the water that Henry and Marie Clewslived in is worth a visit. This whimsicalstructure, known as the Château de LaNapoule, was a run-down château that wastransformed by the pair in 1918, a classicexample of what money and creativitycould do on this precious coast.

5 MilesCANNES Cannes is forever identified withthe most famous film festival in the world,which is held every May. But the cinematicglamour manages to stay around townyear-round. You can feel it by walking onthe Boulevard de la Croisette, a palmtree-lined promenade that overlooksCannes’ famous beach and La Napoule Bay.Then continue on to Pointe de la Croissettefor the most splendid views. For moreworkaday Cannes, visit the morning flowermarket at Allées de la Liberté to see the col-ors of the Riviera at their best. And thenwander through Le Suquet, which is whatthe old town of Cannes is called. For thosewho don’t have a friend with a yacht in the harbor, the next best thing is a boat trip out to the Isle de Lerins, especially Ile Ste-Marguerite, where “The Man in theIron Mask” was held prisoner. The panoram-ic views of the Côte d’Azur are worth mak-ing the trip for. And then return for anapéritif at sunset at one of the seaside hotels.

0.6 MilesANTIBES Flowers grow so well in Antibesthat commercial growers have long foundthe combination of light and heat to be justabout perfect. You’ll see greenhouses galore,but two other hothouse species have beencultivated in this precious town: artists andwriters. The late British novelist GrahamGreene lived here for years, as did thepainter Nicolas de Staël. It was a young

American couple, Sara and Gerald Murphy,who moved here in the 1920’s and attractedvisits from Ernest Hemingway and F. ScottFitzgerald. On your wanderings, pause atthe Château Grimaldi, a pastiche of 12thand 16th century architecture, which hous-es the Musée Picasso. Picasso actually usedthe castle as his studio for a time in 1946.In addition to his paintings, there’s a finecollection of the master’s ceramics as well.

2.5 MilesCAP D’ANTIBES This is a lovely peninsulawith a winding, twisting road and stunningviews around every corner. Drive up to thePlateau de la Garoupe, where you’ll find apanorama awaiting you, as well as a light-house and the Sanctuaire de la Garoupe,with a fresco by Clergues and the Sebastapolicon, a 14th century Russian Byzantine work.The compact botanical gardens known asJardin Thuret were created by botanistGustav Thuret in 1857. On a relatively smallplot, there are more than 3,000 species,including eucalyptus and palms.

9 MilesCAGNES-SUR-MER The light thatprompts groves of olive and orange trees tothrive has also attracted legions of paintersto Cagnes-sur-Mer. Their number includedno less than Pierre Renoir, who spent thelast dozen years of his life at Les Collettes.It’s now the Musée Renoir, and ten of hisbest-loved paintings are displayed here,including the second version of “Bathers.”But beyond Renoir, stroll throughHaut-de-Cagnes, the old town, with a finecollection of 15th and 17th century hous-es. The Château Musée is a castle with anunusual assemblage of museum-quality arti-facts and displays, including a Museum of

the Olive Tree and a museum devotedto the work of 20th century

Mediterranean painters.

7.5 MilesVENCE The masterwork of artist HenriMatisse is what brings most savvy visitorsto this colorful old market town. Between1947 and 1951, Matisse designed andpainted the Chapelle du Rosarie, which isalso known as the Chapelle Matisse. After alifetime of work, the artist was convincedthat this was indeed his masterpiece.Beyond a Matisse pilgrimage, the Cathedralis worth a visit, a melange of styles in abuilding that lies on a Roman temple toMars. Beyond tourists, it’s true that artistsstill come here, as evidenced by the pletho-ra of art galleries and the ongoing exhibi-tions at the Château de Villeneuve-Fondation Emile Hugues.

3 MilesST-PAUL-DE-VENCE In a storied areathat’s synonymous with great 20th centurypainters, no museum is more famous thanthe Fondation Maeght, located in this fortified hill town. Jose Luis Sert’s structure,of white concrete and rose-colored brick, is justifiably known as a temple to mod-ernism. Paintings, drawings, ceramics andsculptures are shown in rotation, includingthe work of such masters as Giacometti,Kandinsky, Matisse, Braque, Chagall,Calder and Leger, among others. But thetown itself is one of the most charming inthe South of France. Peruse the galleriesand antique shops on the pedestrian-onlyRue Grande, which are housed in 16th and17th century buildings. Then walk aroundthe ramparts, where you can take in a viewof the Alps as well as the Mediterranean.

16 MilesGOURDON The view’s the attraction inGourdon, specifically one with a 30 mile

radius that’s yours by simply standingin the little square next to the church. Otherwise,pause at the château,

which was formerly afortress. The Musée Historique on theground floor has an Aubusson tapestry, a Rembrandt self-portrait and a collectionof 16th and 17th century arms.

9 MilesGRASSE If the air smells especially fra-grant in Grasse, it’s because the town is theepicenter of the French perfume industry.The essences produced here go into themost famed perfumes in the world. TheMusée International de la Parfumerie,housed in a marvelous private mansion, has3,000 years of perfume history to divulge.For a look at perfume making today, stepinto the perfumeries of Fragonard,Galimard and Molinard. Beyond the scentsthat have made Grasse famous, the townhas long been a haven for the rich andfamous. No less a personage than QueenVictoria came here for several winters back when the Riviera was a prime winterdestination. Of artistic interest is theVilla-Musée Fragonard, a country housewhere the painter Jean Honoré Fragonardtook refuge during the French revolution. A selection of his paintings, drawings andetchings can be found here.

HOTELSLa Colombe d’Or is run by the Roux family, who happened to be friends withMatisse, Picasso, Braque, and Calder. Theseartists are represented in their rotating collection. Place du Général de Gaulle,St-Paul-de-Vence; Tel: 33-4/93-32-80-02, fax 33-4/93-32-77-78.

Hôtel-du-Cap-Ferrat. A grand Rivieradowager set on 22 acres. The bougainvillea,a marvelous pool that seems to flow intothe sea plus those stunning views make thisperhaps the quintessential Riviera hotel.Blvd. du Général de Gaulle,Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Tel: 33-4/93-76-50-50, Fax: 33-4/93-76-04-52.

La Réserve de Beaulieu. La Réserve openedits doors in 1890, and its pink rooms, gra-cious service and drop-dead views arereminders of why the Riviera has long beenso popular. 5 Blvd. Général Leclerc,Beaulieu; Tel: 33-4/93-01-00-01, Fax: 33-4/93-01-28-99; For reservations in the U.S. 800-735-2478.

(Mileage is estimated from each preceding cityor site. Before you begin your trip, please note:For space reasons, we could not provide themost detailed map with this brochure. We recommend the use of Michelin MapNo. 245 Provence /Côte d’Azur in conjunction with this guide.) To orderMichelin maps call: 1-800-223-0987

C Ô T E D ’ A Z U R

NICE AIRPORTThe fastest way to access the Riviera is tocome here on a direct flight from the U.S.From Nice, the center of the Riviera, you canhead off in whatever direction you choose.

NICE Nice is the hub of the Côte d’Azur,both a summer and winter resort, that’sbathed in the gorgeous light of theMediterranean. Start your exploration witha walk along the splendid Promenade desAnglais, the main boulevard which over-looks the Baie des Anges, passing by suchclassic Belle Epoque hotels as the HotelNegresco. Then dip into the back streets ofthe old town, to Cours Saleya, with its live-ly flower and vegetable market. Check outthe shops selling fragrant olive oils and pas-tries, and pause at the cafes that spill outonto the pavement. There is much to do inNice, including a visit to Cimiez, the grandresidential neighborhood. It’s here you’llfind the Musée Marc-Chagall, which hous-es a permanent collection of the artist’s mostsignificant work. The Musée Matisse is alsoworth-while, an opportunity to see thepainter’s works in the landscape in which itwas painted. For those who can make ithere in February, the Nice Carnival is fan-tastically colorful and delightfully old-fash-ioned. That’s especially true of the “bataillesdes fleurs,” a brilliant procession offloral floats.

Hôtel de Paris. Everyone who is anyone seems to have stayed at this Belle-Epoque palace. The glamour is palpable, especially at chef Alain Ducasse’s“Louis XV,” perhaps themost famous three-starrestaurant around.Colette wintered in thisMonaco classic. Place du Casino, Monte Carlo; Tel: 37-7/92-16-30-00, Fax: 37-7/92-16-38-49.

Le Saint Paul. In the heartof Saint-Paul-de-Vence, thisis a 16th-century bourgeoishome with elegantly decorated rooms. You can dine alfresco on Provençal specialties here. 86, rue Grande,Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Tel: 33 04 93 32 65 25; Fax: 33 04 93 32 52 94. For reservations in the U.S.: 800-735-2478.

Le Cagnard. This is a 13th-centuryProvençal residence that’s set on the ramparts of a medieval village. The roomsare spacious and romantic. Dining on theterrace is the essence of Côte d’Azur living.Rue sous Barri, Haut de Cagnes,Cagnes-sur-Mer. Tel: 33 04 93 20 73 21;Fax: 33 04 93 22 06 39. For reservations in the U.S.: 800-735-2478.

RESTAURANT

La Bastide St-Antoine is located in Grasse,with views of the lights of Cannes below. A soup may contain chanterelles, truffles,and foie gras, a main course might becoquilles St-Jacques in cauliflower sauce,followed by strawberries in orange granita.48 Ave. Henri Dunant, Grasse; Tel: 33-4/93-70-94-94, Fax: 33-4/93-70-94-95.