Trail building guide brought fromold Pinkbike. -=NOT MY WORKJUST THOUGHT PEOPLE SHOULDSEE IT=-original

Hey there everyone, I had been looking around at all the old forums on pinkbikeand found this trail building guide from a guy named southern freerider. He isreally amazing at writing a guide for trail building. I though everyone should readit so I posted it. I take no credit for any of this. Southern freerider did all of this.

Posted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 6:05 am Post subject: ~ My Complete Trail BuildingGuide v1 ~

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Please don't copy this and claim this as your own, you can copy and paste ithowever you like, just make sure you say it was writen by me. Also, you may see this elsewhere on the web, don't slate me for this as I'm onlytrying to show as many people as possible and help their building. Also, this guide took quite awhile to write, and it is all my own work, so if youdon't like the length, don't complain, just read the section you're into.

///----------------Pollard's Complete Trail Building Guide v1------------------///

This is my complete trail building guide to everything trail building. I made thisbecause although there are some very good guides on the web there aren't manythat cover all the areas in trailbuilding, comprehensively, in one guide. This is only

version 1, I will make a version 2 after recieveing feedback on this one, becausethere are many things I may have overlooked, or still do not know.

I have covered most aspects of trail building, including trail design, general dhtrails, freeride stuff, dirt jumps and north shore. Though, you may want to skip tosection that applies to you, or you want, because, the complete guide is quite long,and some of it may not be relevant to you.

Here are the sections I will be covering:

1. Trail Design 1.1 Where to build 1.2 What to build 1.3 Understanding Trail/Tread Grade 1.4 Creating flow 1.5 Controlling Trail Speed

2. General Trails 2.1 Tools 2.2 Inital Clearing 2.3 Secondary Clearing 2.4 Berms 2.5 Benching 2.6 Drainage 2.7 Smoothing out tracks 2.8 Maintenance 2.9 DH Track Tips

3. Freerider Stunts 3.1 Drops 3.2 Booters/Gap Jumps 3.3 Stepdowns

4. North Shore Stunts 4.1 What wood? 4.2 Tools 4.3 How to make rungs 4.4 Ladders bridges 4.5 Log rides 4.6 Get creative 4.7 Ladder Tips 4.8 General Tips

5. Dirt Jumps 5.1 Location 5.2 Tools 5.3 Starting out 5.4 Building the basic shape 5.5 Shaping 5.6 Drainage 5.7 Maintenance 5.8 Get creative 5.9 General Tips

6. Additional Stuff 6.1 Soil Types, pros & cons 6.2 Tool Storage 6.3 Dealing with social defects (chavs, etc..)

Afterword

---------------1. Trail Design-------------

1.1 Where to build

Where you build your trail is one of the most important parts of building the trail,get this wrong and you either be making it difficult for yourself, or run the risk ofgetting it destroyed. There are various factors you need to consider when scopingfor trail locations. Usually you won't be able to get a good area that covers all thefactors, but weigh out the pros and cons and see what would be best for you. Thefactors to consider are, how hidden it is, how easy to get to, the relief (the area interms of what the land is like, e.g. steep, mellow, treey, etc..), soil type. There areother area specific factors, but they are obvious.

Firstly, in most cases, unless your trail is legal, you want it as hidden as possible,so random people and chavs and ramblers don't unintentially, or purposelydestroy it. Also, if other mountain bikers find it, it's usually good because sessionsare funner and they might help maintain it, but sometimes it best to keep itcompletely hidden. Also, basic tip, never have it remotely visible from a fireroad,cause then the local ranger or warden is more likely to find it, and therefore morelikely to destroy it.

Secondly, how easy is it to get too, not too big of a factor, but especially if youalways have to carry tools to do trail work, you don't want an uber long ride orhard hike through the bushes. You can overcome this by locking tools to nearbytrees. I generally have a 45mins ish ride to trails which is fine, and have beenknown to ride for over an hour with a spade each way to do trail work, but anylonger and it might not be worth it.

Next, the relief, it depends on what kind of trail you want as to want sorta shapeland you want to build on, but bear in mind steep trails wear quicker and takemore work benching and mellow hills can be too slow.

Then there's, soil type, i'll explain soil types in 6.1, but basically you need to bearthis in mind when deciding where to build. Don't just dig 6 inches in and asumethat's what it is all the way in. dig at least a foot in, and take it from there.

1.2 What to build

Before you start getting dirty you need to have a vague idea of what kind if trail youwant to build. If you don't, you'll be unfocussed, and the trail will seem throwntogether and unnatural. And you may also waste time rebuilding sections.

I can't go through all the various options you have in terms of kind of trails tobuild, but the basic types are: DH track, generally bumpy, technical, and fast. Thisrequires less work because you don't have to deal with drainage or erosionproblems because they add to the feel and techinal side of the track. The DH trackgenerally incorperates aspects of all the types of trails too, and requires a dher tohelp design because they'll know the best way to keep speed and have a fun andquick track.

Then there are basic singletrack trails. Simply a 6 inches or so wide flat track withup and downhill bits, non-banked turns and no jumps. These are quick and easy tobuild, but long so take a while. Drainage and erosion has to be serious incorpatedinto the design because of the high traffic and susectability to problems. Build itonce, build it right.

Then there are general freeride trails. These are smoothed, buffed tracks fromabout 2ft to 4ft wide on average, all bermed up (banked turns), and usually withnon-wooden stunts such as jumps, gaps, drop offs, hips, etc... These are thefunnest because you can ride them over and over and still have fun, and trick soneof the stuff too. Same as singletrack in terms of drainage and erosion, a poorlybuild trail will fall apart and become unrideable with medium traffic in 3 or 4months. A well built track can still be in great condition with high traffic after 2 ormore years.

Finally, there are north shore trails, basically general freeride trails with orexclusively with wooden stunts (ladders, skinnies, etc..), called north shorebecause this style of trail originated in the north shore of canada. Also, be aware

what you built influences who'll ride it, how many will, and affect the chances ofthe forestry commission destroying your trail.

1.3 Understanding Trail/Tread Grade

Basically, the trail grade is the steepness of the slope on the trail. There are a fewbasic but essentiall trail building tips relating to this, that must be abided by inalmost all situations. Firstly, avoid the fall line, never build a trail that goes downthe fall line (the shortest route down hill diorectly, the way water flows), becausewater will funnel down the trail stripping the trail of soil, exposing roots, creatinggullies and scarring the enviroment, and also means people will brake,exasperating this.

Secondly, avoid flat areas because water tends to collect on the trail if you build onthe flat. To avoid collecting water on the trail, make sure the trail tread isoutsloped and outslopes towards somewhere lower than the trail tread. The halfrule (more appriate for long lasting, high traffic XC trails), is where the steepnessof the trail shouldn't be more than half as steep as the slope it lies on. This rulebasically, stops water running down , and therefore wrecking your trail. Finally,use grade reversals as much as posible (within reason). Grade reversals are whenyou reverse the trade grade for a bit before going back down again. This shedswater, and adds variety and flow to an otherwise straight and boring section.

1.4 Creating Flow

Flow is what a trail has when everything seems to 'work', and flow naturallytogether, and is the ultimate goal when building a trail. Hard to explain, butbasically, the way to create flow is to be consistent throughout the trail in terms ofspeed and type of feature, or if a variety is opted for, don't make abrupt changesbetween style and/or speed, because this recks flow. Also, contary to the opinion ofsome, a bumpy and technical trail can still have flow, but flow tends to be easier tomake in smooth trails. Also, a poorly built trail tends to wreck flow because it

harder to ride and don't make ya feel as good.

1.5 Controlling Trail Speed

Controlling the speed of the trail riders is a crucial and usually overlooked aspectof design the trail. For example, lets say you have a fast section, but then have tolead into a slower tight turn (this should be avoided anyway), you need to stop therider slamming on the brakes right before the turn because this is how brakingbumps occur and trails get wrecked. The best way it to use choke points. Basicallyyou stick a few big rocks or logs along the trail, then make some gentle turnsround them, gettin gprogfressively slower. This slows the rider down gradually,preserving the trail, and not wrecking trail flow. The big rock in the way of theoriginal line stop people avoiding the slower line.

------------------2. General Trails---------------

2.1 Tools

What tools you use is a lil bit personal preference but using the right tool savestime and more importantly, effort. Also, it always helps if you buy the best qualitytools you can, and keep them nice and sharp. Rust proof tools are a must if youplan on leaving them locked toi a tree in the forest, but if you can't get it rustproof, you can just stick the affected tool in a rubble bag instead.

First of all, there is the good old spade, which you use for most things trailbuildingwise, very versatile. Use a round tipped spade if possible as it makes getting intotough ground easier, and a big head means you can move more dirt quicker,making you more efficient. Long handle also makes work easier cause you'll havemore leverage. This kind of spade is the general use spade. If you plan doing a lotof jumps and berms a short D-handle spade is helpful for 'whacking-in' jumps andberms. This kind of spade is the common gardening spade, short, light, d-handle,and a flat square head on it.

Then you have the mattock (a.k.a. pulaski, pick, adze) this by far the useful andtime saving tool, which is mainly used for benching, berming, smoothing outbumps, and chopping roots and branches. Remember, when choosing the size ofthe head, bear in mind you'll probs be swinging it around for 5 or 6 hours, so don'tbuy a real heavy one.

Then, you have a rake, very useful, can clear the top soil, and smooth and shapeberms and jumps with it. Fire rakes are the best, got tough pins and a long stronghandle.

Sheers or similar tool(s) to clear foliage are essential if you are building anywherethat requires some defoliaging.

Also, rouble bags are very useful for transporting dirt, saves a hell of a lot of timeand effort, and when you work in a pair, you become uber quick. They are themain tools, and of corse there are a few more specialist tools that are needed insome situations, for example, building wooden stunts (north shore), but I'll gothrough that later.

Remember to also bring with you a phone, water, food and bug spray (more usefulthan you'd think).

2.2 Initial Clearing

This is the first part of the actual trail building process. This invloves removing allbranches that might get in the way, all logs and anything else that isn't top soil ormud where the trail will be. Don't do this to the entire trail, jus the section youplan on building. Remeber, build you trail on esection at the time, don't half-dobits, and skip bits without fully completeing them.

2.3 Secondary Clearing

This is the stage where you get rid off the top soil, the organic layer, basically, thelayer of rotten crap that is above the soil. You need to get rid of the looser topsoilfor the general trail tread, and shift it completely befdore you start digging up themud or for berms. Depending on where you building, the type and thickness ofyour top soil will be different, and therefore there are a variety and ways of gettingrid of it. Light stuff can literally be kicked away, heavier stuff can be raked, andheavier still (or if it rooty), will need mattocking, or digging up with a spade. Also,make sure you leave the shifted topsoil in a neat way, cause an ugly trail isn't asfun to ride.

2.4 Berms

Berms are the essense of a really fun trail, built well, they can require nomaintenance, and add an element of fun to a trail that without the berm wouldn'tbe as good. There are loads of different types/styles of berms, but they all tend tofollow the same basic principle, so once you understand the basic idea of how tomake them, check out the various examples I've shown ya and make the berm tosuit the situation. Also, one of the most important, if not the the most importantthing to have your berm be like is having a smooth transition from the flat trailtread to the sloped tread of the berm. Above the ground this is simple to achieve,but because we'll be digging the berm into the ground (easier to build, mud you getfrom the ground, you do half the digging, looks cooler, and lasts longer), this ismuch harder.

Examples of berms:

553902

383518

383504

383503

890474

Firstly, you need to completely visualise the berm, and where you need to dig intothe ground in order to make it. The diagram I made shows where you have to digin in order to make a berm that has smooth transiition from flat to slope. Remebr,it also helps to have an expereienced builder, or at least an experienced rider, tohelp you make it look and ride 'right'.

http://img174.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bermpiclw9.jpg

Once its all visualised, you need to completely remove the layer of topsoil in theshape that I just showed you in the diagram, this is where you'll be digging into theground.

Now, there is a debate as to whether you should use wood as a retaining wall inberms (rocks are always good), and my opinion based on lots of experience and

feedback from lots of other trails is, providing the wood isn't gunna rot anytimesoon, and used properly it is fine, but no wood is more reliable (but then takes ahell of a lot longer). You'll just have to see what works. So, if you're gunna use aretaining wall, make it along the outside of the berm, in the shape on the berm,and mnake sure it's nice and strong.

Then, preferably with a mattock, although it can be done with a spade, shift thedirt from the shape we cleared, up onto the retaining wall (or just generally in theshaper of a berm), so that the hole that is made by this is the bottom half of theberm (see the idea yet? taking the mud from bottom, using it on the top, so thedigging down bit is part of the berm). Make sure you've covered the retaining wall(if used), with at least 6 inches of dirt. (I repeat, never use topsoil).

Once the general shape is made work on the entrance and exit of the berm, makesure it is a smooth transition from flat to slope, and to understand if you think it'llwork or not, visualise riding it, would you like it (be unbiased, self-pride isn'tdamaged if the answer is no).

Then, with a rake (or feet), smooth out the berm so it looks whister smooth, thenwater (if you can), and 'whack-in'. The water (this is why we like the rain now andagain), is essentiall to a well packed berm. To whack in, use spade at first, then youfeet. Your feet apply more pressure, so if done first, will just make huge footprints.Now the berm should be in rideable condition.

You're not finished yet though, you need to smooth out the backslope. This isinside bit of the berm, smooth it out so you pedals don't hit it, and it looks better.Now you should be good to go, ride it a few times and then if it doesn't ride perfect,go back and fix it now.

Tips: make as many as possible because you get better with experience. Build itonce, build it right. Take your time, don't rush it. Common Mistakes: not enoughmud on retaining wall. Used topsoil. Too abrupt transition. Too steep.

2.5 Benching

Benching is where you turn a steep (or not very steep) slope, and make a flat trailtread. A good full benched trail is the sign of a good long lasting trail. I've seen somany trails that are riuned cause the builders couldn't be arsed to bench the basictrail, I think because they don't look at it as a fun aspect of the trail, they don'tbother.

The first thing to do, is to shift the layer of top soil. Using a mattock makes quickwork of this.

Then you need to cut away into the mud, until you have a flat trail tread (don't usemud that you dug up for the trail tread, it renders the trail not as strong and longlasting). Remeber to slope the tread very slightly outwards, so any water trails overdown the slope.

Then, you need to smooth out the backslope, to make it blend in with thelandscape properly. IMBA made a good pic showing this:

http://www.imba.com/resources/trail_building/images/manual_8.jpg

Then you're done. But to gain style points, cover the mud you dug out in thetopsoil you dug out (and bracken or whatever too), that way you aint scarring thelandscape and your trails blends in, it also looks neater. Benching takes a lot ofwork, but once you have a mattock, and good mattock technique, it quite quick,and certainly saves time fixing afterwards.

2.6 Drainage

There isn't really drainage to be dealt with in general trails, more avoiding

drainage issues that could come up. Here are some basic ideas to follow in order toavoid drainage problems: outslope the trail tread to shed water, follow half rule(see 1.3), incorperate grade reversals, make sure water can always escape from thelow bit of berms. Also, use you rcommon sense, water goes downhill (due togravity), so make sure it can get off ya trail.

2.7 Smoothing Out Tracks

Not always wanted, but it generally makes for a nice track buffing it smooth. Nottoo much to really explain here, but its easiest with a mattock, and get rid of anyannoying roots too, cause they come through eventually. Smoothing out tracks isgenerally common sense, but remeber the phrase, build it once, build it right.

2.8 Maintenance

Trail maintenance is an absolute must, unless of course no one rides it and itcompletely isoltaed from the elements. So basically, you need to maintain yourtrail, otherwise all that time and effort you spent would be wasted. The time vs.trail longevity involved in trail maintain means a couple of hours every month ofso keeps the trail alive and kicking. Another thing to bear in mind is the more youpercrastinate sp? (put it off, hehe Steve) fixing a part of trail takes longer than iwould if you did it earlier, so just get on with it.

Firstly, you need to look at the trail very carefully to discern what needsmaintaining. This involves getting off the bike and walking the whole trail, lookingfor quagmires (marshy muddy patches, caused by bad drainage), pools of waterthat will have formed by bad drainage, ruts, bumps that weren't there when youmade the trail, anything that has been damaged in some way and anything elsethat you can think of that'll need maintaining.

Before you go ahead and fix the problem, work out what caused it and fix thecause, don't just fix the problem because the cause will make the same thin

ghappen again, leaving you more work.

Drainage problems are easy to fix, most peopel can clearly see where water will go(downhill), so make sure it doesn't collect anywhere or run down the trail.

If braking bumps or ruts appear, you either are building on too steep ground andpeople are over breaking, not obeying the half rule, or even close to it, you havebad flow and have a fast sectrion leading into a sharp corner (you starting to seehow following my guidence makes good long lasting trails yet?). Basically, youneed to redesign that section of the trail, and clearly close off the old route.

Also, one aspect of maintenance that most people neglect to do is get feedbackfrom a wide range of people using it. Because for example, the berm extrance maysuck leading to bad flow, or that section is too tight and slow, or only you this proare hitting that stunt and everyone else is going round it, or people are walkingthis stunt as there's no alternate route. All these things will need to be addressed asa lot of the time you'll be able to pin the trail (because you built it, duh), but someweaker riders can't even get through the sections. This aint right, just abouteveryone should be able to get to the bottom of the trail. The way to do this is themake you doubles tables (apply concept to northshore), or make an alternate,route. Where lets say the trail temporarily splits, one way a hig hskinny later, theother, an easy low ladder. You can predict where alternates will be needed, but ittakes experience to know where.

2.9 DH Track Tips

Involve downhillers, there input is essential as they know how the track shouldlook feel and ride like, they'll also know how best to design the track too.

Make sure you include as much vertical drop as possible, the longer the trail thebetter, and make best use of what drop you have by building across the hill, notstraighten down it.

Plan for shuttling if possible, as some people especially, in canada (haha, jokes) arelazy and don't like walking up hill sto the top, whereas us english always have too,we not aloud cars in our forests.

Don't criss-cross fast DH runs, the only time you can criss-cross is when the trail isslow and you can see other riders around you. Include a variety, e.g. maybe slowand techy at top, then open up the fast and smooth (made the transitionsmoothly).

Rock is good, rock is your friend. Include as many rock gardens as possible as usDHers love it.

Berm it up baby, berms help you keep speed, and of course don't berm everythingon a DH track as over camber turns and shit elimate the good from the bad butberms enable speed to be carried through turns.

Include jumps, drop-offs and alternate lines, and don't be wooden structurs (northshore), unless it uber wide, rollable, itsn't technical at all, use it more as a solidbooter or landing ramp.

--------------3. Freeride Stunts-----------

3.1 Drops

Basically, a drop can either be built with a landing ramp or not, with a gap orwithout a gap. Obviously a gap makes rollin the drop impossible, and you can'thave a gap without a landing ramp. There not too much to explain as far asbuilding drops go, but I'll just go through a through ways to build drops, and howto (I'm not including a north shore ladder drop, I'll explain that later on).

Firslty, there is build a drop on a steep slope. To do this, you basically, dig out anLshape in the side of the slope, and use the mud you dug out for the lip. You can

either just use mud exclusively for the lip, or build a retaining wall for it. Usingkinda the same principle as for berm retaining walls, except as a lip.

For tips on how best to stack logs and/or use 'box lips' see the bit below '3.2 Gapjumps...' as it applys the same principle for both. And yeh, for advice on landingramps, it the same kinda thing as a takeoff or landing ramp explained below.

As for where else to build drops, cliff faces obvious provide a great place for drop.Only building usually is clearing and smoothing out bumps so they quick to buildand you have unlimited runout which is good, leaves room for progression.

Finally, you could build a drop of a big natural bould under the ground, either withthe rock exposed or not, it doesn't matter, but you simply builda strong lip usingtechinques described below, and a corresponding landing also using the techniquebelow.

A few useful pointers for building drops: steep trannies (transitions, basically thecurve of the landing ramp), build strong lips (use a rock slab or a wooden structureif possible) because strong lips won't wear down as quick over time and make thedrop safer, never make do or die drops (where you can't roll the drop, or with agap) in th emiddle of a trail without big obvious signs saying so, otherwise you endup with a bunch of dead xcers at the bottom of the drop.

3.2 Booters/Gap Jumps

Firstly, I'm not talking about dirt jumps like with steep lips and pits between, Imean freeride jumps. Booters are basically gap jumps without a landing, usuallyinto a steep slope.

When deciding upon location for the jump try and incorperate as much of thenatural relief as possible, so you are only really making a slope steep, or'jumpafiing' a mound in the ground, basically you want to use the natural shape of

the ground to your advantage, not just saving effort, but the trail ends up lookingcooler.

There are 2 main ways to build take offs, the first is where you use pegs and logs tocreate a 'box', where you fill in the box with logs then dirt. This only works whenyou have access you good quality wood and a location that won't get the oddperson trying to destroy it (trust me, in the UK it happens more than you'd think),but this method is quick and make a very strong, very neat and very compacttakeoff and whenever possible make one these. The second, used when theresenough logs and very public land, it just to stack up logs in the right way to creat asolid base, and then pack mud on the it ,either just on the front, front and sides, orall around it. It's always best to pack mud all around it and makes it stronger andless liekly for a randomer to destroy it. Also, rocks work too, better than wood is itsooooo much longer, not that using good wood is ever really an issue.

The first method goes like this. First, prep the arae where the lip goes, just clear itof loose topsoil and all logs and rocks, and then visualise what you'll be building soyou know what to aim for.

Then, collect all the wood you'll be using to make the pegs. The pegs are the thingsthat get hammered into the ground, and that the back logs lean against. You canuse any thickness log within reason, but bear in mind thin ones will break andthick one need sharpening and are still a bitch to get in the ground. Hammer themin with a sledgehammer, or stump or large log, or whatever you find. Then, collectall the wood you'll be using to make the sides and back of the box. You'll then needto cut the wood to size. The easiest way to get an axe, or the axe side of the mattockand just do it that way, but saw still work, just slower and neater.

Then, you need to use to jigsaw skills and peice it all together to look like theoutline of a jump. Another thing to bear in mind is you can use you north shorebuilding skill sif you good at that instead of pegs, works better than pegs but ittakes longer and much more difficult. Jigsaw the box together, or tetris it together

(whatever floats ya boat), then fill the box first with rocks, or logs if you don't haverocks like us brits. bearing in mind you be putting 6 inches of dirt on top. Thensimply put the dirt on (just topsoil remember).

Never ever ever ever ever get the mud from a huge great big hole next to lipbecause firstly, its as danger as f, secondly if you needs to abort the jump you'restuffed, and thirdly, it more liekly to get you trails destoryed. Stop being a lazybones and make a hole not near the lip. But then you say you have to walk real farevery scopeful, you instead you fill a rubblebag with dirt, and transport the dirtthat. It works well with 2 bags, and 2 people. 1 person digs for awhile, filling up thebags, and the other carries the bags to the lips, then swap.

Once the dirt is on the takeoff shape it with a rake (use an experiened builder ifpossible), or a spade, or if you real cheap your feet. If you can't tell whether its agood shape or not, visualise riding it and seeing whether you ride it good or not.

Then comes the process of dirt compression, or 'whacking in' as its commonlyknown. You start off by getting the dirt wet (if not possible, don't worry, skip thisstage, then come back later in the rain and re-pack), then start out whacking it inwith a spade (D-Handle flat spade if possible), then use you feet to compress thedirt. Use the spade first cause there is less pressure and won't leave footprints in it.Once it packed enough, your feet won't leave footprint and you can pack it nicehard.

Then, don't ride it till it dry because otherwise you'll leave huge ruts in it, whichthen hardens, and you takeoff officially becomes worse because you couldn't bebothered to wait.

The second method works the same as the first, except as opposed to making abox, you stack up the log in the shape of the jump, then covering the whole thingin 6 inches of dirt. As to how to stack the logs, there a bit of an art to it, and tetrisskills come in good use. Try and link in logs to line the side too, sometimes

overlooked it adds strength to it.

Landing ramps work in the same way, except for the fact it needs to beconsiderably wider than the takeoffs.

Then, once you gap is done, don't go home, make the run in and runout good,because a shite run in/out means shite jump thgat either leaves you pedalling liekmad or coming short, or slamming on the brakes and making braking bumps, orslamming on the brakes and crashing.

General tips for building booter and gap jumps: get out and build as many aspossible, and ride them a lot too. You'll soon work out what work shape works,what distances work, what widths work, etc... Also, don't build sniper trannies!What i mean by this is don't make the landing ramps soo short and steep you needsniper precision to nail it properly.

3.3 Stepdowns

Building a stepdown is basically a mix of other trail building techniques, such aslanding ramps, take offs, genreal trail skills for smoothing in run, etc... So insteadof repeating myself I'll just give some general tips:

make a good in run, crap inruns make riding the gap harder and no as fun clear the run out fully, so often do i see stepdowns with like no run out itsannoying, it just means th eurn out gets bumpy cause people slam on the brakes. don't build snipe rtrannys, just means judging speed becomes too much of ahassle if the tsepdown vertically drops a lot steep trannies are a must if you incorperating a stepdown into a trail, you have to have an alternate for thosenon huckers out there build with the guidence of an experience stepdown sender so your not wastingyour time on something that's unrideable

again, as with most things, experience really helps

----------------4. North shore Stunts------------------

4.1 What Wood?

The wood has to be durable, resistent to moisture, decay, insects, and the elements(sun, cold, wet, dry, snow, ice, etc...). E.g. redwood, cedar, white oak, cypress,locust and mazanita (I don't actually know the last 3, but IMBA says they are fine).Generally, use your common sense too, or experiement. Commericial wood can beused to, but get advice from the dudes in the shop as to how resistent and durableit is. Don't use wooden pallets, scrap wood, ply, soft woods (e.g. pine), randomsticks, chipboard, or any other inappropriate materials. Don't cut down treesunless permission has been given, so if you don't have permission you'll need touse dead wood. Make sure the dead wood is big enough to resist decay and/ordetiriation, and always remove the bark. If in doubt of the wood you want to use,consult an expert, someone who knows what they talking about, or an experiencedtrail builder.

4.2 Tools

There are a zillion tools you can use to do the job but here are the ones Ireccommend for the majority of north shore stunts (on top of standard trail tools).

Axe, used for making rungs and genrally chopping stuff (very useful). You can usethe backside of a mattock but you'll be using it alot get a dedicated axe. Saw, cutting down rungs and also general cutting and sizing wood (very useful).Big 2 person saws are needed if you have to cut through seriously big logs orstumps or whatever. Wedge, used to split logs to make rungs. Use common sense and advice as to whatsize and style to get. Hammer (sledgehammer), using with the wedge to make rungs.

A bark peeling tool, e.g. spud, drawknife, adze. Choose which you think will beeasiest for you. Small hammer, for hammering in nails. Nails, not really a tool but don't forget them. People have nail preferences but ifind 6" and 9" galvanised nails to be the most common. Spiral nailed are supposedto be even better too. Obvious for huge stuff 12" nails can be used, but don'tunnecesarily. Also, screws can be used but then you need a drill and plenty ofpower for it.

4.3 How to make rungs

Having not ever made rungs do it being england over here (no big trees to makerungs from), I've never personally made any rungs, but I've found two differentlinks that do an excellent job of explaining it. Check them out.

http://vpfree.pinkbike.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=118934 http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=73697

4.4 Ladder Bridges

There are loads of different ways to make ladders, and of course it depends onwhere you're building too, but I'll just quick run through a typical method ofbuilding them, and through in a few constrution tips along the way.

First of all do all the initial clearing where the shore will go, and also make sureyou clear any dangerous things in the surrounding 'fall zone' too (the fall zone iswhere a rider would fall if they had to abort the stunt, or fall off).

Then, gather all the wood you'll be using, you can do this as you go but it helps togather in bunches. For example you coul dhave 1 person making rungs, and theother nailling it all together. Also, debark the wood at this stage too.

You'll need to then make the upright posts that will hold the ladder up. Chop some

logs up to size, bearing in mind at least 2ft will be underground. Then, dig a2ft(ish) hole, for the posts, stick a big flat rock as a base (having no rock baseleaves the wood prone to detiorate damaging the stunt's long term integrity). Then,stick the post logs down in the hole and fill the hole in, this should result in astrong supporting post.

Once you have enough posts in you'll need to put the main stringers in, thestringers are what the rungs are nailed to. To do this, cut them size, and use yourcommon sense. Use your biggist nails to connect the stringers and the supportingposts.

Then, beef up the structure using diagonal struts and again common sense, andmake it stronger than you first anticipate it to be. Use the pictures to give youideas where to beef it up.

Then, nail the rungs on, without consistent gaps to shed mud and water fromcollecting, see examples for spacing ideas.

Then, you just need to put additional traction on if needed, see 4.8 on what to usefor this.

4.7 and 4.8 will give you further tips and guidence on building north shore, be sureto read through them too, and if in doubt, use you common sense.

4.5 Log Rides

Log rides are where you have the option to ride along a log, adding a technicalchallenge to the trail. There are 2 styles are log rides, cut away ones, and non cutaway ones. The pictures will show you the difference. Cut away:[P=http://www.imba.com/resources/trail_building/images/long_logride.jpgsize=m

align=c]http://www.imba.com/resources/trail_building/images/long_logride.jpg[/P]

First of all choose what you want to do, and choose an appropriate log to use. Ifyou decide upon a non cut away one, don't debark, otherwise, debark. Either way,you're going to need some form of additional traction otherwise they'l quicklybecome a slippery nightmare, see 4.8 for traction tips. To cut away at the log, youcan use any method, such as axe, saw, or whatever but by far the easiest is achainsaw. Even though you have to carry it to the trail, the trail and effort savedeasily outweights any transport trouble.

You can include log rides wherever and whenever you want, and again, use yourcommon sense.

4.6 Get Creative

One of the most fun things about building north shore is the creativity you canincorperate. It almost becomes an art form. Look at the following examples forinsipration and come up with your own uber creative line.

900880

897167

[P=http://www.smokeriders.co.uk/gallery/albums/HertsShore/SRIM7371I.jpgsize=malign=c]http://www.smokeriders.co.uk/gallery/albums/HertsShore/SRIM7371I.jpg[/P]

http://photos.nsmb.com/files/2/7/0/5/7/woodline0020.jpg

696626

[P=http://www.rower.com/images/bb_l/3517.jpg size=malign=c]http://www.rower.com/images/bb_l/3517.jpg [/P]

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696626

4.7 Ladder Tips

Don't put a ladder in that is out of place, by that I mean for example don't put asuper skinny ladder 15ft up in the middle of an easy trail. Make the ladder high up, this adds an element of danger but also makes it morechallenging and fun. Armor the entrance and exit, make sure you make the area as durable as possible,using rocks if possible. Vary the length, height and width to add a challenging aspect to it. Makes turns in it, and off camber sections, make sur when doing turn to make thecorner bits wider so your wheels can track round without falling off. Make steep ups and steep downs, but make sure its still rideable. Link em up, link ladder sections to make an uber cool trail.

Stick some drop offs in there, consider the impact force of the drop on the landingand make stronger if necesary. Combine ladders with other crazy stunts such as teeter totters anddiscombobulators. Keep them a secret, obvious tell ya mates, but try and hide them because unlessyou've been given permission, the forestry commission will destroy them in allprobability.

4.8 General Tips

Don't have an exposed sharp edges, not just protruding nails, but sharp edges inthe wood hurt too. Rungs shouldn't stick over the edge by any more than a few inches. Avoid gaps greater than 2". All nails (or screws) should be corrosion rssistent. Galvanised stuff works well. For additional traction: you can score the surface with a saw, cover riding surface with anti-slip paint designed for tough use, attach diamond mesh lade (chicken wire and roofing materials tend not to last toolong) Only build on stable land, marshy land is a nono. Build preferably with an experienced builder to stop you making stupid timewasting and dangerous mistakes.

------------------5. Dirt Jumps----------------

5.1 Location

For the location of dirt jumps, you use pretty much same concept as general trails(read 1.1), except with a few differences. You'll want the dirt jumps on a flat, orpreferably, slightly downhill slope, so pumping to the end is easier. You'll alsoprobably want some form of a roll-in to save a hard pedal-in too but that's

optional. Mud is also quite an important factor, read 6.1 for a mud guide. Also, youreally want to keep in hidden and away from where people might find it. Also, ifthe trees around the jumps tend to drop a lot of pine needles or leaves or whatever,you might not want to build under them unless you like sweeping them up,however does provide with nice shade in summer, so its a tradeoff. Also, be by awater supply such as a river or lake helps because you can collect water from thereto use on the jumps.

5.2 Tools

For dirt jumping it's less personal preference toolswise, but you can do all the workwith a simple spade, so all other tools just make life easier. In priority order:

Long handle spade, used for general digging, and shaping if you don't have aspecial flat head D-handle spade. The long handle makes life easier for your back,and a pointed tip makes initally getting into any tough ground easier. Short D-handle spade, with a flat square head, used mostly for shaping, but canalso be used for general spadework. Wheelbarrow, used if you're getting your mud not from the pits inbetween thejumps. Rake, can be used to shape lips, though not everyone likes them over the standardspade. Mattock (a.k.a. 'pick'), used to get through the initial layer of very tough ground(not essential). Broom, used to sweet dusty or leavy hardpacked trails (not essential). Bucket or watering can, to water jumps if you have a lake or river nearby.

That's about it, remeber you can use what you want, or any additional tools if needbe.

5.3 Starting Out

Get some insirpation by scanning the web for killer sweet dirt jumps. Or just checkout these sweet pics I found.

888002

644481

834234

440641

Now you have some motivation, round upyour mates (threaten them if need be withbeatings and stuff) so you have someoneto help dig, and it'll also be quicker thatway. Also, scope out the spot you'll bebuilding at prior to this. Round up ya toolsand your bikes and head off.

Once you're there, do intial clearingeverywhere in planned jumps vacinity (see2.2), then, once you visualised where you

be building the jumps, do secondaryclearing anywhere you'll be digging intothe ground.

5.4 Building the basic shape

First of all you need to understand the shape of a dirt jump and the connectingpits. To do this, analyse pictures of some quality jumps to get the idea. Then, startoff my digging up the dirt from infront of the first lip, to make the first pit, and pileup the dirt where the lip will be. Then, do the same for the landing ramp, startingthe pit that'll connect the first and second jump. Then, skip on the the shapingstage, or you can get the basic shape of the rest of the jumps at this stage too. Youcan for example work with ya mates building jumps simultainously. If you needmore dirt to get the lips high or wider, widen the pit, or use the dirt from thedrainage (5.6) holes. Don't just keep on digging down otherwise the trannies willbe too abrupt. If you dig deeper, you'd have to make the gap between the jumpsbigger.

5.5 Shaping

Once the dirt is in the general shape of the jump, you'll need to 'whack it in',compress it. Ideally you should wet the jumps at this stage, but you can always wetthem later and recompress, but it's best the wet before you whack it in. Now, useyour rake, or spade to spread the dirt around so its all smooth and looks like ajump. To whack it in, hit it with a spade as hard as you can, and keep whackinguntil its all smooth and even. Make sure to whack in the sides and back toootherwise it'll fall apart.

I have heard of another way to whack them in, which is to put carpet over the dirtthen hit to carpet, but my way works too, just try both and see which you like.

Remeber, shapin glips in an art, so get as much practise and so can, and ride a lotso you know what the 'perfect' lip should be like. If in doubt, do it, then get anexperienced jumping to tell you where you went right and/or wrong.

Also, very important tip here, if the jumps are wet (they probably will be after yafinished building them cause you wet them), do not ride them, you'll leave big rutsit them. Leave for a couple of days (or until next weekend), so they go real hard.Don't be impatient, you just wreck them (I know it's hard to wait once ya finallyfinished but be patient).

5.6 Drainage

Now, drainage is something you should consider because you even start digging,there are a few different ways to do this, so have at look at these various examplesto see what ya options are.

It doesn't take rocket science to build them, water goes downhill, use that niceeasy to remeber fact and you'll be fine. Also, try not to buil din the bottom of awater basin otherwise you get more to deal with that to do be dealing with.

5.7 Maintenance

Maintenance is one of, if the most important part of building the jumps, without it,the jumps will deterioate and fall apart, and all that effort has gone to waste.

You start off by getting feedback from ya mates and other riders to see if they likethe general shape and flow. If not, fix that first be rebuilding or reshaping anythingif necessary. This is often overlooked unfortunately, and some jumps are only thenridden by a few beause they are soo hard, or too sketchy. So, get feedback to makesure ya jumps are good for everyone.

Then, fix up any damaged stuff now. Don't just fix, fix the problem not the resultof the problem, but if it is just someone being a dick or an accident just repair.

Then, sort out any other problems such as cracked lips, ruts, puddles, general crapall over jumps such as leaves and stuff, by using your common sense. Also, cleanup any litter as it wrecks the general atomsphere and get the jumps destroyed.

5.8 Get Creative

Remeber, if at all possible, get creative and don't just build a basic row of jumps,mix it up, throw in berms, hips, step-ups, step-downs, whoops, etc.. Be creativeand come up with the craziest things around.

Here's a few pics to get you inspired.

5.9 General Tips

Build as much as you can, start small and get bigger, good jumps take experienceto build right. Don't drop litter. If it rains, get out and dig, don't be a pussy. Take you time, Rome wasn't build in a day, neither was woburn or wisley. Remeber to maintain the jumps.

Build a runout, and don't forget to leave room for it when planning it. Build the jumps nice and wide, nothing's worse than skinny trannies. Make tabled landing lips, basically, it means you have a bit of a saveguard if yougoing too slow because you screwed up the pump for example. Know your soils! Read 6.1 for a guide to mud. Round up any many mates as possible, the more mates, the quicker the jumpscome up. Put carpet on the landing lips, this keeps the mud together, especially you trytingspinny tricks or case a lot. A VERY IMPORTANT TIP, don't bring your girlfriend along to help dig, she'll justdump your ass, bring her riding, but NOT digging.

-------------6. Additional Stuff--------------

6.1 Soil types, pros and cons

(sourced from IMBA: Trail Solutions)

Sandy Soil:

Dry: Loose, feels rough, you can see indivudual grains of sand. Wet: Squeeze a handful of it. Sand will form a ball that crumbles apart easily anddoes not stain your fingers.

Silty Soil:

Dry: It feels smooth and powdery, like flour. Wet: It feels smooth, but not sticky, and crumbles apart.

Clay Soil:

Dry: Clods are almost impossible to break with your fingers. Wet: It is sticky, easily forms a ball, and leaves stain on your fingers.

Loamy Soil (BEST): mix of various types

Dry: Clods are moderately difficult to break and somewhat gritty to touch. Wet: It niether gritty nor sticky; it forms a firm ball when squeezed.

PRO/CONS:

Water-holding capacity:

Sand - Low Silt - Medium-to-high Clay - High Loamy - Medium

Drainage Rate:

Sand - High Silt - Slow-to-medium Clay - Very slow Loamy - High

Compactability:

Sand - Low Silt - Medium Clay - High Loamy - High

Susceptibility to water erosion:

Sand - Low

Silt - High Clay - Low (if compressed) High (if not) Loamy - Low

6.2 Tool Storage

I'm going to give you tips on how to store tools around the trail, so that you don'thave to lug them around with you. One way is look them to a tree, this works whenyou have a something in the tool to put the lock through. When doing this, stillhide the tools, just make sure you lock it to tree deep in the forest, but still nearishto your trail., and remeber to bring the key with you! I have forgot a few times andit serious annoys you, lol. If you can't lock the tool to a tree you have to litterlyhide it or bury it, don't bury something so you can't find it, I once spend over anhour finding a rake, lol (I found it in the end). Your other tool storage option is tofind a storeroom of some kind near to trail to store them in.

6.3 Dealing with social defects (chavs, etc..)

Basically, if you build to near any places chavs (or whatever you call them) chancesare they'll come over and ruin your fun and your jumps, you build as far awayfrom them as possible. If your building and them come over giving you trouble,simply wave your spade them and hope they go away, if they start trying to nickyou bike, beat them to death with the spade (I take no responisibility), or evenbetter a mattock would definitly stop them screwing with ya.

---------------Afterword---------------

Thanks for reading (part of) my guide, please post or email you tips or corrections,and providing they sensible I'll include it in v.2. Also, if there are any sections Imay have missed, just tell me. Please visit and sign up to my forum http://www.southernfreerider.co.uk anddiscuss this and other trail building techniques there.

I hope you all enjoyed this as I did. and if Southern freerider is reading this greatjob M8!

Here is a link to the original http://vpfree.pinkbike.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=134012

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heyitstyler Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 11:54 Quoteits a cool guide.

but somebody already posted a guide pretty much the same as this.

here it is

http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=9503&pagenum=1

smack101 Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 11:55 Quote

heyitstyler wrote:its a cool guide.

but somebody already posted a guide pretty much the same as this.

here it is

http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/ ?threadid=9503&pagenum=1

No thats one posted recently this is one from old forums

konastinkysrule Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 12:21 Quotemy freind moved and we know have 3 acres to build trails on!!!!

dirtjumper25 Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 13:58 Quote

heyitstyler wrote:its a cool guide.

but somebody already posted a guide pretty much the same as this.

here it is

http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/ ?threadid=9503&pagenum=1

I know that one was posted. I was bringing this one back because there was some things in it not adressed in the odl one and people seemed to like it in the old pinkbike.

dirtjumper25 Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 13:59 Quote

Skittle - wrote:I'll put some pics of my trai which is in progress, i've got a perfect location.Finshed building hip jump kicker and started landing, I also cleared some room for another berm so i can have 'S' berms which will be awesome

Awesome!

dancallahan Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 14:00 Quotehey! for my trail, all arund what we do is we chop down branches that will gouge ur eyes out, and then we chip them, are wood chips good for trails, like to line the trail with?

and alos...who wants to see my trails?!

dirtjumper25 Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 14:01 Quote

backflip101 wrote:hey! for my trail, all arund what we do is we chop down branches that will gouge ur eyes out, and then we chip them, are wood chips good for trails, like to line the trail with?

and alos...who wants to see my trails?!

Not really sure if wood chips are good. Maybe on the side to make it a little nicer and Id like to see this trail.

dancallahan Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 14:08 Quoteso. dig up al the loam and sutff till i get dirt, then maybe wood chips on the side or sumthing?[PI=1692009/ size=m align=c]1692009[/PI]

1692007

(click this one to see it bigger, ull see the chips i mean)

1692006

1692004

(the drop, as u can see, the landing boards i like 223r23r3r reinforced them, and the logs and cross peices r massive

dancallahan Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 14:08 Quote

forgot one

1692002

dirtjumper25

Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 14:46 Quotelookin good on those trails. I think the woodchips will be a good touch.

dancallahan Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 15:29 Quotek so this summer or spring next time i go to cape breton, i should dig up all the leaves until i find dirt, then pack it down ? i want to make sure... cause if this is what i should do, my trails will be

indistructable cause the ground is clay

dirtjumper25 Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 16:33 Quote

backflip101 wrote:

k so this summer or spring next time i go to cape breton, i should dig up all the leaves until i find dirt, then pack it down? i want to make sure... cause if this is what i should do, my trails will be indistructable cause the ground is clay

I just say rake up the general direction of the path and keep going over the path to work the path in. It should look good! The woodchips jsut brign to the side.

dancallahan Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 16:45 Quote

dirtjumper25 wrote:

backflip101 wrote:

k so this summer or spring next time i go to cape breton, i should dig up all the leaves until i find dirt, then pack it down ? i want to make sure... cause if this is what i should do, my trails will be indistructable cause the ground is clay

I just say rake up the general direction of the path and keep going over the path to work the path in. It should look good! The woodchips jsut brign to the side.

k

lucky-7 Posted: Jan 19, 2008 at 17:54 Quotebest stuff ive ever seen

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 9, 2008 at 8:20 QuoteIm glad I can help you guys. I now cant wait to start building!

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fam2505 Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 8:54 QuoteTop Work, some of that s**t looks like sculpture!

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 9:24 Quote

I find this thread horrible for people like me that have about a foot or 2 of snow because When I read it, it makes me wanna go outside and build but I cant !

woohill Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 18:15 Quoteme too.we started a trail in the fall.and we are plannin on finnishing it in the spring.should be good.

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 18:17 Quote

stinkyde wrote:me too.we started a trail in the fall.and we are plannin on finnishing it in the spring.should be good.

Awesome Dude, Should be awesome. Can you tell me some of the things on it? Is it all flat or downhill?

woohill Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 18:19 Quoteits actually slightly down hillwhich is hard to find in ontarioso far we have a half a gap, into a berm into a hip and then a jump over a welland we started a northshore drop at the end but we didn't finish it.

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 12, 2008 at 18:42 QuoteSick A lick. If you ever come by my town you should come make jumps.

DJer62 Posted: Feb 16, 2008 at 15:58 Quoteawesome guide, il deafinitly be using it this summer

j-trim-jamis Posted: Feb 16, 2008 at 16:09 QuoteThank-you

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 10:16 QuoteNo Problem

antmtbr Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 10:30 Quotebrilliant info much appreciated, certainly help me think of things that could be improved and developed properly

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 10:31 Quote

antmtbr wrote:brilliant info much appreciated, certainly help me think of things that could be improved and developed properly

Lucky For you that you can just go out and build right now cause you guys have no snow

bike-r Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 13:56 Quoteget out and biuld some snow jumps man!

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:01 Quote

bike - r wrote:get out and biuld some snow jumps man!

I built One!! Its not as fun but you can try tricks and have a good laugh flying over the handlebars

bike-r Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:04 Quotetheres always one that goes into a tree lol

bike-r Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:04 Quotewat time is it down at canada?

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dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:05 Quote

5:20 I suppose its about 10:20 up there. We have freezing rain! So no jumping for now! Grr

bike-r Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:07 Quotewell it would be a change for down herewe have non stop rain in the winter!

antmtbr Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:12 Quote

bike - r wrote:well it would be a change for down herewe have non stop rain in the winter!

oli stop talkin bout rubbish go on a different thread if you want to talk about time and weather, this is about trail building!

dirtjumper25 Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:28 QuoteSorry Bud. It was 2 sentences. I dont know the weather in the UK.

bike-r Posted: Feb 17, 2008 at 14:56 Quotei personally appollogise for any previous comments includeing weather and rain.i would like to remove these comments and appologise also for any inconvinience caused.thankyou for your complete coopreation.

nickt Posted: Mar 5, 2008 at 19:33 Quote

dude thats so cool this helps alot on just building in general

eblackwell Posted: Mar 5, 2008 at 19:42 QuoteSick shit man!!! really helpful!

extention Posted: Mar 5, 2008 at 19:45 QuoteBest Thred yet.. Thanks

dirtjumper25 Posted: Mar 6, 2008 at 13:07 Quotenot a problem.

mattiscool124 Posted: Mar 19, 2008 at 20:18 Quotesick

dirtjumper25 Posted: Mar 20, 2008 at 19:44 Quote

Thanks

freerideaddictscott Posted: Apr 10, 2008 at 18:22 Quotethat is so awesome

ironhorsedownhiller Posted: Apr 29, 2008 at 17:54 Quoteawesome

p2guy Posted: May 4, 2008 at 16:34 Quoteawsome and sick

dancallahanPosted: May 6, 2008 at 18:11 Quoteis there any specific way to make jumps with a tractor on a slope?my uncle has a tractor and imma pay him to make some for me, they are on a hill, and i want trick jumps, should i make a lip even tho they are on a hill, and should i make the gap a little bit furtherthan i think it should be, on account of speed?

just to me sure..i think imma make 1 -2 good sized jumps (5,6, maybe 7 ft tall, with a good 4,5,6 ft gap.) im thinking about making a real long landing so if i over shoot or something im not dead

or should i not make it long, so that it would give me speed?

i think i might just go for a big trick jump ( like, a 7-8 ft jump, with like a 4-5 ft gap, with like a 6-7 ft landing width)

ahahelp?

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is there any specific way to make jumps with a tractor on a slope?my uncle has a tractor and imma pay him to make some for me, they are on a hill,and i want trick jumps, should i make a lip even tho they are on a hill, and should imake the gap a little bit further than i think it should be, on account of speed?

just to me sure..i think imma make 1-2 good sized jumps (5,6, maybe 7 ft tall, witha good 4,5,6 ft gap.) im thinking about making a real long landing so if i over shootor something im not dead

or should i not make it long, so that it would give me speed?

i think i might just go for a big trick jump ( like, a 7-8 ft jump, with like a 4-5 ftgap, with like a 6-7 ft landing width)

ahahelp?

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dirtjumper25 Posted: Jul 23, 2008 at 13:58 Quote

xXZULTXx wrote:

Thanks to who ever posted this. This will help me alot.

Not a problem from me and the original poster!

domster Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 6:02 QuoteI'm printing this and I'll use it as a bible. I'm building something and it will definitely help me make it better.

Thank you!

shukrwasubr Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 6:30 QuoteThis is great. Thank you.

dirtjumper25 Posted: Jul 24, 2008 at 8:51 Quote

shukrwasubr wrote:This is great. Thank you.

Not a problem at all! I cant wait to start using it! Im going to get the roto tiller into the back yard and get myself a mini backhoe excavator thing!

yo13bo Posted: Jul 25, 2008 at 23:01 Quotethats actually very helpful, thanks!

fighton07132 Posted: Jul 27, 2008 at 9:35 Quotethats gonna help so muchh

shovels Posted: Jul 28, 2008 at 8:28 Quote

AMAZING THREAD ! This gave me tons of new ideas and tips, Thank you so much.

stickerman Posted: Jul 30, 2008 at 17:38 Quote

ya man wicked thread so sick. i never thought of locking my stuff up at my trail.

sigp2000 Posted: Aug 20, 2008 at 10:19 Quotebump, as I think this may be useful to many people

dirtjumper25 Posted: Aug 20, 2008 at 16:10 Quote

sigp2000 wrote:bump, as I think this may be useful to many people

I think your right!

macdadder Posted: Aug 20, 2008 at 16:17 Quotevery nice. these tips really improved my dirt jump building skills. Excellent forum.

dhslug Posted: Aug 22, 2008 at 1:24 Quotei love the weather right now in cali, but i can't wait til it starts raining to build some sick jumps

iggz Posted: Aug 22, 2008 at 1:36 Quote

dhslug wrote:i love the weather right now in cali, but i can't wait til it starts raining to build some sick jumps

cali is awesome, does need some rain though

dhslug Posted: Aug 22, 2008 at 1:53 Quotei'm trying to resurrect some jumps but they're rock-freaking-solid and i can't really do anything to them until it rains (no water source nearby)

then i hope the bums don't ruin 'em

maxpower001 Posted: Sep 14, 2008 at 9:00 Quote

Sweet .This rely helps

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GoBig-or-GoHome Posted: Sep 14, 2008 at 17:10 Quote

backflip101 wrote:bomb thread. so what i am wondering, when building in the woods, rake up all of the leaves and stuff thats on top till you get to dirt?

sometimes i mix the leaves in to make the dirt more stronger for breams and jumps and other stuff

craig-202 Posted: Sep 20, 2008 at 11:44 Quotehere some of the northshore, a few of my friends built, i helped a little...

2427104

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still unfinished, but still...

here how my friend gets wood up there...

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dirtjumper25 Posted: Sep 21, 2008 at 15:09 QuoteHeres what Phil and I built this weekend!

Its a 4 foot high jump. It will be a gap soon (once we get more 2x4's) It will also have better and higher berms, we were just getting the basic shape going!

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craazy Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 6:33 Quoteyou know... I have a summerplace that would be really cool to build some DJ's. But its in my backyard wich u can see from the road. So i Wanted to make a sign named. like Private Territory. But i searchedon internet and only found signs that u have to buy. Can someone make a topic or PM me some Tip.

For example. little board. Wood 20cm x 20cm. Then i will write in kinda good text. Like print from internet and then somekinda paint on the wood surface. But the problem is too keep the text from rain snowcold warm conditions.

Anyone got any ideas ?

craazy Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 6:34 Quote

and there are many small kids there that is anoyyin. Coz they want to jump and i cant stand it.. they destroy everything... (nearly )

dirtjumper25 Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 12:30 QuoteDo you have any stores like a dollar store (I dont know what you would call it in sweden). Its one of those stores where everything inside is around 1 dollar, they usually sell signs like that that say keepoff or private property!

dylaine Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 13:44 Quotego to the hardware store or building supplies store or whatever you might call it in sweden, buy yourself an adequate-sized piece of plywood and some waterproof paint, and a cheap paintbrush...dont forgot to pick upsome clearcoat/verathane...once you finish painting the message on the sign and assembling it... cover the WHOLE sign with the clearcoat(cleanly, if you can at all). This will protect it from the elements... AMAZINGthread btw...

dirtjumper25 Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 17:07 QuoteThank you.

bigfootrider10 Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 18:09 Quote

craig - 202 wrote:here some of the northshore, a few of my friends built, i helped a little...

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2249977

2249870

2249893

2225341

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2098351

still unfinished, but still...

here how my friend gets wood up there...

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that trail looks sick. It must be awesome to ride

shore-shredder Posted: Sep 25, 2008 at 18:16 Quote

bigfootrider10 wrote:

craig-202 wrote:here some of the northshore, a few of my friends built, i helped a little...

2427104

2427101

2427089

2249977

2249870

2249893

2225341

2160266

2098351

still unfinished, but still...

here how my friend gets wood up there...

2412463

that trail looks sick. It must be awesome to ride

can i know were on the north shore or is it privite only because i would really love to ride it and would repair anything we broke if we did

EDIT:its northshore style you live in europe lol anyways nice trail

dylan2023 Posted: Feb 24, 2009 at 23:17 QuoteWANTED TO HAVE THIS CIRCULATING AGAIN AS IT IS AMAZING!

DJ-in-JB Posted: May 18, 2009 at 4:17 Quotewow this is an amazing guide!

c2crider Posted: May 18, 2009 at 5:25 Quote

This is an awesome thread. As a beginner trailbuilder whenever I hit a problem I instantly look here for advice. Thanks very much, props to you.

dirtjumper25 Posted: May 18, 2009 at 19:10 QuoteThanks guys! Its definetly helpful to look at when your stuck!

nanlrider Posted: May 19, 2009 at 4:51 QuoteSome pretty good stuff in there! just going to say, if you live where there are local trails or big hills around to build trails, dont be a wuss and go build some! be thankful for where you live!! our local hill hasabout a 200-400meter peak, so our runs are about 30-40 seconds long, with more Briant Park Monsters than rocks...

i said i needed new pads at our LBS and he asked what bike it was off... i said giant he said cant do it.. was like its a shimano brake.. fella....

sorry for dribbling, but just to hopefully motivate someone to go ride and build

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bigfootrider10 wrote:

craig-202 wrote:here some of the northshore, a few of my friends built, i helped a little...

2427104

2427101

2427089

2249977

2249870

2249893

2225341

2160266

2098351

still unfinished, but still...

here how my friend gets wood up there...

2412463

that trail looks sick. It must be awesome to ride

can i know were on the north shore or is it privite only because i would really loveto ride it and would repair anything we broke if we did

EDIT:its northshore style you live in europe lol anyways nice trail