THE POST EXPRESS PRINTING CO.

[Practical • •

HandbookON

CONTAINING A TREATISE ON

DISEASES OF THE

Skin, Scalp lbairBY

Charles D. Hess,ROCHESTER , iV. Y.,

U. S. A.

PAGE.

INDEX

The Art of Preventing and Curing Skin Disease, 1The Anatomy of the Skin, - - - 2Diseases of the Skin, .... 5Acne Vulgaris or Pimples, .... 6Comedones or Black Heads, ... 7Acne Rosacea orUnnaturalRedness, - - 8Eczema or Salt Rheum, .... 9Pityrasis or Dandruff, -

-- -

- 11Sycosis or Barber’s Itch, -

- 12Erysipelas, ------ 18Seborrhcea or Oily Skin, - 14Porrigo, Favus or Scald Head, ... 15Psoriasis, ...... 16Acarus Folliculorum orHair Eaters, -

- 17Urticaria orNettle Rash, ... 18Mellocuti Remedies, - - - 18-21GeneralDirections, - ... 22-28Facial Massage, - - ... 24-25Hess’ Toilet Specialties, - - - 24-28Perfume Extracts, ----- 28How to Make Up the Complexion, - 29Stage Make Up, .... 30-31Price List, - Third Page of Cover

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THE ART OB'

"Preventing &nel ©Urinc£SKIN DISEASES.

The Skin a Coftiplex System of Organs.

The large and continuous membrane, calledthe cutis, or skin, which covers and protects theinternal parts of the animal organism, is one ofthe most interesting organs of the body. » Thefirst changes in the general health, the mentalimpressions, the feelings of satisfaction or ofshame, of love or anger, are manifested in theface by a difference of color, which is producedeither by a contraction or a dilatation of thecutaneous blood vessels. Many internal dis-eases can be promptly recognized by the eye ofthe skillful physician from the color and altera-tions of the skin.

The skin is a complex system of many organs,performing the most interesting functions—-absorption, transpiration, perspiration, and thedelicate sense of touch. With its freshness ofcolor, its smoothness of surface, its appendages.

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the hair and the nails, it produces the regularappearance of the body and of the physiognomy,makes the ideal, the aesthetic character ; in aword, produces beauty.

It therefore merits the most diligent attentionand the best care. Its functions of absorptionand perspiration must be looked to in order toprevent disease and maintain the organism inhealth. As an organ of touch, it must be care-fully examined as to its sensitiveness, whetherhyperaesthetic or anaesthetic, or whether therebe disordered sensations, as in pruritus andmany nervous diseases.

As an organ of beauty, it must be guardedagainst eruptions, discolorations, loss of hair,etc., all of which would change the expressionand destroy the exterior aspect of the body.

THE ANATOMY OF THE SKIN.

The skin, as everybody knows, consists ofthree layers, differing in their anatomical andvital conditions. These layers are called,according to their position, the epidermis, thederma, and the subcutaneous tissue.

EPIDERMIS.

Prom any part of the surface of the skin apiece of cuticle may be removed without pro-ducing pain or bleeding. This appears as afine, dry, slightly transparent membrane, andhas in its structure neither blood-vessels nornerves. Under this dry membrane there existsanother thin layer, which has a semi-fluid, gela-tinous appearance, similar to plasma. Thisdifference in appearance gives rise to the

division of the epidermis into two layers, thefirst being called stratum corneum, or hornylayer, and the second stratum mucosum, or themucous layer. The cells composing themucous layer gradually become more superfi-cial, arrange themselves close together, becomeflattened, lose their fluid contents, and finallyare changed into the flat scales forming thehorny layer. These flat scales are being con-tinuously lost by washing and rubbing, but arecontinually replaced by new cells from belowin the manner described. Thus the process ofwaste and repair is carried on in this as in allother organs.

The corpus mucosum forms a net work whichencloses within its meshes the papillae, and iscalled the rete mucosum. It is a thin layer ofsoft, pulpy matter, of a fibrous character andappears to be the seat of the color of the skin,with the hue of which it always coincides. Asthe cells of the rete mucosum become cnangedinto those of the horny layer, they lose theirpigment (color) to such an extent that in thenegro the cuticle is scarcely brown.

DERMA.The derma, corium, or true skin, is the most

important part of the integument (covering).It is made up of connective tissue fibres, whichare woven together as the fibres of a straw mat.They arise from the sub-cutaneous tissue andproceed in all directions.

The corium has different degrees of thicknessin various regions of the body, thus it is thickerin the scalp, the trunk than in the face. The

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skin of a woman is much thinner and softer thanthat of a man.

Numerous blood vessels and nerves enter themeshes of the connective tissue and proceed tothe surface of the skin and produce the papillataolus. The papillae tactus contain the sense oftouch. They are elliptical (oval), seldom round,and contain the fibres of the last ramifications ofthe sensitive nerve ending.

The skin has two kinds of glands—sebaceousand sweat glands. The sebaceous glands areto be found in the corium all over the body,except in the palm of the hand and the sole ofthe foot, and open free upon the epidermis orinto the hair follicles, and supply the samewith sebum which is an oily substance, whichkeeps the hair and skin soft and protects themfrom the sweat.st The sweat glands are long convoluted tubes,situated deep in the corium and subcutaneoustissue, and having long excretory ducts. Theseglands being 2,800 to the square inch in thepalm, and 400 to the square inch in the skin ofthe back.

The function of the glands is to segregate thesweat, which appears upon the surface either indrops or of a general moisture. The sweat is aclear watery fluid, of an acid reaction, turningblue color in red, and contains as its chemicalconstituents chloride of sodium, sulphates, uricacid (a trace), lactic acid, and the salts of lacticacid and water.

SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE.The Textus cellulosus subcutaneous is the

lowest layer of the skin, and serves to bind it

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to the muscies beneath. It is loose in structure,and consists of fascicles of connective tissue, andan abundance of fat. Throughout itsmeshes areto be found the ramifications of the nerves and ofthe blood vessels as they come from the tissuesbeneath. This tissue gives rise to the elasticityof the skin. The fibrous elements are so inter-woven as to produce large meshes which inter-communicate. Among these meshes we find thefat which, in some cases of good nutrition, isfrom one to two inches in thickness, thus produc-ing a distinct layer. This quantity of fat variesin different individuals. It is increased by abun-dant fatty food, sedentary habits, and freedomfrom care. No fat is to be found in the subcu-taneous tissue of the nose, eyelid or ear ; whereasit is to be found well developed in the palm ofthe hand, in the fingers, the sole of the foot, inthe gluteal region, in the breast of woman, andin the face.

DISEASES OF THE SKIN.

Diseases of the skin are very numerous andvaried in their character, and all of them more orless impair itsbeauty, andnota few render it loath-some and their victims unfit for the social society.It is, however, chiefly of those of a mild charac-ter and of the milder forms of others, in whichmedical aid is seldom sought, and of the removalof their ill effects on the personal appearance,that I shall chiefly refer to here. It would neces-sitate a very large volume, were I to enter intothe minutiae of every separate mode of treatmentfor all diseases of the skin, much as I might wish

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to do so. This, for lack of time, is at presentquite out of the question, but at some futuretime I intend to prepare a work expressly de-signed to cover the ground neglected in this.

The most common forms of skin and scalpdiseases which we meet are ; Acne vulgaris, orpimples; acne rosacea, or unnatural redness ofthe nose and face ; comedones, or black-heads;

eczema, or salt rheum; pityriasis, or dandruff ;

urticaria, or nettle rash, and erysipelas ; sebor-rhoea, or oily skin ; porrigo, favus or scald head ;

alopecia, or falling of the hair ; psoriasis ; acarusfolliculorum, or hair eaters.

Most people have the idea that when theynotice any one suffering from any form of skintrouble, that it is a disease of the blood. Themajority of diseases of the skin are not a resultof a diseased state of the blood. If the bloodwere at fault, making the circuit of the body asit does so rapidly, every portion of it would mostcertainly become involved from contact with thediseased blood. Indigestion is the cause of manydiseases of the skin and scalp.

ACNE VULGARIS, OR PIMPLES.This is an inflammatory affection of the seba-

ceous glands, and of their excretory ducts,usually chronic. According to the time the dis-ease has lasted, more or less pustules will bescattered on the different regions of the face,forehead, cheeks, nose, chin, and sometimes onthe neck. In some cases the pustules are soclose together as to form small abscesses of theskin. When a few pustules are fused togetherthey make a kind of tubercle showing a hard in-

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filtration under the subcutaneous tissue. In thecenter of the pustules is a comedo, black-head,which, when suppuration begins, is surroundedwith pus. The skin is commonly rough to thetouch, and greasy

Disorder of the digestion is the principal causeof acne vulgaris. The food must be taken intoconsideration, as it is well known that buckwheatcalls forth, in some delicate persons, a pustulareruption or acne ; and crops of acne follow indis-cretion in diet, as after partaking largely of fruitcake, mince pie, sausage, ice cream, nuts, etc.

The regular use of Mellocuti Digest will regu-late the digestive organs, and a free use of Mel-locuti Cream and Soap will expel all impuritiesfrom the surface, purify and bring the skin backto a healthy condition. (See General Directions.)

COMEDONES, OR BLACKHEADS.Comedo appears as a small elevation in the

skin of the size of a pin-head, with a blackishpoint in the middle. The common name isflesh-worms, or grubs, from the erroneous ideathat the small, inspissated plug of altered sebum(suet) which can be expressed from the follicle, isa parasitic worm. The cause of the comedo is inthe alteration of the quality of the sebum, whichbecomes and remains as a hard mass in the ductof the glands, and plugs the meatus (passage ); thedust of the air becomes mixed with the fat, andthus makes the black point. Instead of fluidoleine there is an excess of stearine which is hardand non-fluid; as a consequence the glands cannot empty themselves of their contents, and arein consequence irritated, swollen and inflamed.

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Small abscesses resulting are at various depths inthe skin filled with pus, most of the pustules theepidermis resists the pressure and the pus ischanged into a hard mass in the tissue of theskin. The result is an ugly scar.

Disturbances of the digestion are the maincause of comedo, since the food is not changedbut only emulsified in the intestines and carriedinto the general system and a part brought intothe sebaceous glands. The supply being toogreat the glands cannot carry it off.

Treatment. —Express all comedones with thefinger-nail, or a watch-key, but do not squeezetoo many at a time, lest too much irritation beproduced. Bathe thoroughly with warm waterand Mellocuti Soap and then apply MellocutiCream freely. Use the soap freely during theday and the Mellocuti Cream at night, takingMellocuti Digest after each meal which will regu-late the digestive organs.

ACNE ROSACEA, OR UNNATURALREDNESS.

This is another affection of the skin whichfrequently finds its origin in the habit of drink-ing liquors ; but it is also caused by the food andby the condition of the stomach. The skin ofthe face appears red with some scattered pus-tules, the capillary blood vessels, in consequenceof the stasis, become enlarged and varicose, producing a permanent redness of the affected place.

The principal location is the face, beginningon the tip of the nose and spreading thence tothe forehead and cheeks, chin and in very rare

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cases the whole face. The same redness can becaused by the abuse of aromatic substances,strong sauces, Worcestershire sauce, too muchmustard, pepper, vinegar, etc. Concerning thetreatment of acne rosacea, the diet must first belooked to, avoiding eating or drinking of any-thing which will particularly heat the blood.Mellocuti Digest should be taken after each meal,and washing the face with Mellocuti Soap imme-diately after eating, using Mellocuti Cream free-ly at night, will soon bring the skin back to itsnatural healthy color. The pustules in acnerosacea must be opened, and the large bloodvessels apparent on the skin as red stripes, mustbe cut through with a small bistouri (a smallknife), producing light bleeding and obliteration.

ECZEMA, OR SALT RHEUM.

There can be no doubt that although eczemais a local disease brought about by local irri-tation of the skin, every dermatologist will con-fess that often he cannot find the true cause ofit. It is an acute or chronic inflammatory, non-contagious disease of the skin, and may effectnearly every part of the body. The hands(commonly called salt rheum), the face, ears,arms, the genitals, the navel, the head (knownas scald head), the eyelids, the corner of thenose, etc.

Eczema is divided into two forms, acute andchronic. The acute form occurs especially inchildren, which has been lately called infantileeczema, limiting its term to the fifth year oftheir age. Itching is present in all forms of

eczema, and is usually very severe and annoyingto the patient. Eczema is characterized at thebeginning by redness, papules, vesicles, orpustules with more or less swelling As thedisease progresses, crusts are formed andbeneath this is a reddened, dry or moist sur-face. There sometimes appear small vesicleswhich burst and pour out a watery fluid. Thisdries to a crust, under which the skin is moist,and when they fall off it becomes dry and red,with white scales.

Children usually furnish the largest contingent for eczema and very frequently they areallowed to suffer through the vulgar error ofparents, who fear to drive away the eruptionlest it go to some other organ. When an infanthas eczema during the period of nursing, it isvulgarly called “milk crust,” and the parentsfeel confident that it will disappear when thechild cuts its teeth. When the eczema becomesworse with the accession of a tooth, they call it“ tooth rash,” which will cease when certainteeth are through. In this way many poorchildren keep their eczema for years withoutany effort to improve their condition, on accountof the prejudice of their parents. In the man-agement of infantile eczema, it is necessary topay the greatest attention to the diet of the childand the condition of the stomach of the mother.Eczema in persons of riper years, we can saythat a majority of cases, traces its origin to dis-turbances of the digestion. In other cases,although the organs of digestion are in goodorder, there are dietetic errors which retard theassimilation of the nutritious elements. In theearlier stages of eczema it is necessary to lessen

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the quantity of food, and with light purgativesrelieve the stomach and the intestines that theymay regain their normal functions.

Treatment. —For the digestion, use Mello-cuti Digest according to directions. In acute orinfantile eczema, it requires careful treatment,with a considerable judgment. The partsshould be bathed in warm water (which has beenpreviously boiled), and Mellocuti Soap. Drycarefully and immediately apply MellocutiCream, without friction. If the skin be verytender and sore, spread the Cream on a whitelinen cloth and lay gently on the affected places.

PITYRIASIS, OR DANDRUFF.

This is perhaps the most common of alldiseases affecting the scalp a7id hair. Dandruffis the name given to branny scales that char-acterize the disease. This branny substance isdue to an unhealthy and unusual quantity ofsebum which dries upon the scalp and appearsas thin scales or crusts. If these crusts arerubbed between the thumb and finger it will befound that they have a greasy feeling. Ifallowed to go on, some of the symptoms ofinflammation will be developed—the subcutan-eous cellular tissues becoming very painful andswollen, the heat and pruritus or itching becomesvery troublesome. If the scalp is carefully freedfrom its adhesive material, it will be founddivested of its cuticle. Dandruff is due to awant of tone in the surface of the scalp, and nomatter how copious, or of how long standing,may be easily cured after a short time.

Treatment.—First remove all tlxe crusts,which is done by saturating them with pureolive oil The oil is applied with a sponge. Aflannel cap is then put on and allowed to remaintwelve hours or over night. If the crusts arethin, Mellocuti Cream will do instead of the oil.The crusts can then be easily removed withMellocuti Soap and warm water. A daily use ofMellocuti Cream, Soap and Mellocuti Digest toimprove the quality of sebum, will speedilyeffect a cure.

SYCOSIS, OR BARBER’S ITCH.

We cannot rightly attribute to shaving anyskin disease, with the exception of the trans-portation of the spores (seeds) of a hair worm,which on the epidermis produces that form ofskin eruption commonly known as barber’s itch,which. is a form of Herpes tonsurans, dueentirely to the development of this parasite onthe epidermis. It begins as a small, red, roundspot, spreading and healing up in the center,and forming in this way rings on the face. Thehairs are affected by the parasites introducingthemselves into the follicles of the hair, andthere setting up irritation and inflammation.

Sycosis Nonparasitaria, or Acne Mentagra, hasalso been referred to the barber’s itch, but inthis case the barber has nothing to do with it.It is characterized by the presence of nodulesand pustules, which are perforated by the hair.It is a folliculitis of the beard —an inflammatoryaffection of the hair follicles—not contagious,and of a chronic course. In sycosis it is neces-

saiy to shave every other day, hut in placeswhere there are many pustules it is necessary toremove the hair with shears. By removing withthe forceps the hair which has become a foreignbody in the follicle, the inflammatory symptomsreadily subside. It is proper to understand thatbefore shaving the face, the crusts must be takenofl! by means of inunctions with oily substances—Mellocuti Cream. The pustules must beopened with a small bistouri (knife) and all thecontents discharged. The surface is thenwashed with Mellocuti Soap and warm water,using for this purpose a soft surgeon’s sponge,afterwards drying with a soft towel. The use ofMellocuti Cream has been found of great benefitin hastening the recovery.

ERYSIPELAS.

Erysipelas is sometimes referred to as der-matitis, or simple inflammation of the skin; butit belongs to the contagious diseases. It is char-acterized by a rapidly spreading inflammatoryprocess upon the surface of the skin and mucousmembranes ; by redness of the surface ; by fever,pain, burning sensations and oedema and swell-ing of the skin. It is preceded usually by lossof appetite, vomiting, diarrhoea, joint pains,chill and fever. It begins chiefly at the marginof a wound however slight, suppuration, etc.The cause of erysipelas is a virus which findslodgement in a broken surface, and sometimesthe decomposition of pus in a badly dressedwound. It sometimes will arise from eczemaabout the nostrils, from syphilis, from lupusvulgaris and from vaccination.

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Prophylaxis (preventives) is- of especial im-portance in erysipelas , Perfect cleanliness ofeverything which has to be used about a woun-ded surface, is absolutely essential in preventingerysipelas.

Cleanliness and purifying applications are ofthe greatest importance, for which I recommendMellocuti Soap and Cream and keeping theaffected parts as cool as possible.

SEBORRHCEA, OR OILY SKIN.

Seborrhcea in all its varieties is very frequent,owing to a hypersecretion of fat in scrofulosis.Children with this disease are subjectto seborrhceacapillitii or_ crusta lectea. This very often pro-duces an eczema of the scalp or face, because ofthe presence of an irritating fatty secretion.

A superstition exists among certain classesthat this fatty secretion is healthy and must notbe disturbed ; hence it is allowed to remain andcollect sweat, dust, saline substances, and theresult is a hard crust, offensive and irritating tothe skin and consequently an eczema whichwhen once begun, tends to spread over the head,face and neck, and even further. The abund-ant supply of sebaceous material also causescomedones, or black-heads, and these in turnproduce obstinate eruptions of acne punctata,especially upon the face and shoulders. Thecause of this great amount of sebaceous materialis owing to a disturbance of the digestiveorgans. The fatty food is not properly digested,but only emulsified in the intestines and carriedin to the general system and a large portionbrought into the sebaceous glands. The supply

being too great, the glands cannot carry it off.Regulating the digestive organs with MellocutiDigest, and a free use of Mellocuti Soap andCream will reduce the quantity and improve thequality of sebum, give tone and strength to thesebaceous gland and produce a beautiful healthyskin.

PORRIGO, FAVUS, OR SCALD HEAD.

Favus affects the epidermis appendages, thehair and the nails, spreading on the epidermis.The scalp is the most ordinarily affected byfavus, and when we have occasion to examineone with this disease, we usually find the headfull of yellowish, dirty, dry crusts, resemblingsulphur. In a few days the affected portionsare covered with white scales, and after a fewdays small, yellowish, dry crust, like sulphur, ofthe size of a pin head and in the form of a diskappear, with a hair in the middle. On remov-ing the favus, there remains in the skin a kindof pit where the favus was. The mucous layerof the epidermis bleeds, and has the appearanceof a sore. This is only the result of the pressureof the elements of favus upon the epidermiccells, which, when the pressure has been re-moved, dispose themselves normally, and thepit disappears. The favus scutulum (found-ation) remaining on its place, grows alwaysperipherically (around the organ). The favusscutulum grows to a certain point, the yellowishcolor changes to a dirty white, and after sometime on account of scratching and rubbing, itfalls off, and on its site there remains a flatdepressed atrophic scar, entirely bald, covered

with an epidermis in appearance like parch-ment. <t-

The treatment of favus is long, and requiresa good deal of care. The first thing is to removethe scabs and the favus masses, which must besoftened. For this purpose apply MellocutiCream, covering the head with a flannel cap, inorder to keep the cream on the skin. After aday or two, when the scabs are softened, thehead is washed with Mellocuti Soap, leavingas much lather on the scalp as is possible. Thenapply Cream day and night, washing each timewith the Mellocuti Soap until cured.

PSORIASIS.

Psoriasis is that inherited disease of the skinwhich is the result of a peculiar disposition uponthe part of the epidermis to form scaly or flakymasses upon the surface. Although cases ofpsoriasis have been noticed in infants, it usuallyappears later in life. The mother-of-pearl-likescales, if scratched away, we find at the bottomof the psoriatic patch, the malpighian layer,naked and red, and, by the aid of a magnifyingglass, small bleeding points are seen, whichpoints are the papillae, and not the blood-vessels.

The greatest amount of scales appears shortlyafter its appearance, decreasing with its con-tinuance.

The location on which psoriasis first appearsusually is on the elbows and knees. The scalp,face and body are also frequently invaded. Ititches on the beginning, but when the eruption isfully out it seldom itches at all.

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Treatment. Baths continued for severalhours in a bath-tub, with warm water and a freeuse of Mellocuti Soap, produce the softening ofthe epidermic scales. Dry carefully after remov-ing the scales. Then annoint the afflictedparts with Mellocuti Cream, being careful not toirritate. A quarter teaspoonfulof Mellocuti Digestafter each meal, and a bath with Mellocuti Soaponce a day, with a free use of Mellocuti Creammorning and night, will speedily effect a cure.

ACARUS FOLLICULORUM, OR HAIREATERS.

This insect is found in the sebaceous glands,and in the hair follicles in people affected withSeborrhoea and also in normal conditions,especially on the face, nose, lips, forehead,cheeks and near the duct of the ear. The insectis found with the head down in the sebaceousgland, and the tail is in the excretory duct.

It is very easy to find the acari by squeezingthe sebaceous gland. If the contents are dilutedwith some oil, it may be seen under the micro-scope.

It is also found on the top of the head and thetract where the hair fringes the neck. Whereverit appears the hair becomes dry and brittle, and,if naturally dark, assumes a yellowish hue andvery soon this begins to fall. The hair is neverafterwards as luxuriant in its growth as before,unless their presence can be detected before thework of destruction has been to the extentmentioned.

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Treatment. —Squeeze all matter from thesebaceous glands, bathe the parts in warm waterwith Mellocuti Soap and annoint well withMellocuti Cream. This should be repeated onceevery day until cured.

URTICARIA, OR NETTLE RASH.This is an acute or chronic disease of the skin,

disposed to recurrence, and characterized bydevelopment of wheals of a whitish or redishcolor. These wheals disappear and re-appearrapidly and are accompanied by stinging,pricking and burning sensations. While a deli-cate skin may show this form of eruption fromvarious kinds of external irritation—as from thebite of a bed bug, etc.—I wish in this connectionto speak of the variety of food which producesurticaria.

Certain kinds of fish, oysters, shrimps, crabs,lobsters, pork {especially sausage) mushrooms,raspberries and strawberries are all liable to pro-duce urticaria. Regulating the digestive organsby the use of Mellocuti Digest and a free use ofMellocuti Cream and Soap is perhaps the besttreatment for this disease.

MELLOCUTI REMEDIES.

The Mellocuti Remedies, which have becomeso deservedly popular for treating diseases of theskin, were first introduced to the public underthe name of Mellocuti, meaning mellow skin,and consist of four original remedies, whichafford the most complete and positive local treat-ment in every form of skin disease, from pimplesto scald head. These remedies are “Mellocuti

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Cream,” the great skin cure, “ Mellocuti Digest,**!f Mellocuti Soap” and “ Mellocuti Lotion.”

MELLOCUTI CREAM.The great skin cure is an oily preparation

entirely unlike any other external applicationever compounded by a practical dermatologist,and placed upon the market. It never changesor becomes rancid, is always pleasant to use, canbe used on children from the moment of birth.It will allay every tendency to inflammation . isextremely purifying and soothing to the skin,expels all impurities from the surface, and thuseffectually dissipates all redness, ulcerouspatches, scurvy, infantile and birth humors, andother unsightly cutaneous visitations.

It is the great remedy for burns, scalds, cuts,wounds,«and for removing red spots and allstages of Rosacea. All gradations of redness ofthe skin, from the smallest to the highly devel-oped and equally unadmired nose, will be mostfavorably influenced.

MELLOCUTI DIGEST,

Owing to the fact of the majority of skinliseases being brought on from indigestion, Ioffer this Digest as being the most effectual foraiding, quieting and giving strength to thedigestive organs, besides being very purifying tothe stomach and breath.

It should be, taken imediately after eatingand between meal hours if in case of pain in thestomach. The dose is from one-eighth to one-fourth teaspoonful placed on the tongue, allow-ing the saliva to moisten it, and swallow itwithout the aid of water or other liquid.

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MELLOCUTI FACIAL SOAP

FOR THE

TOILET, NURSERY AND SURGERY.

Owing to the fact that we have had in ourexperience a constant call for a pure toilet soap,and having met so many who have had their com-plexion nearly ruined by the use of impuresoap, we have made it a subject of careful studyto perfect an article which can be used on alloccasions.

Nearly all toilet soaps are made from tallow orlard stock gathered fromrefuse sources and fromdiseased animals; anything being consideredgood enough for “soap-grease.” This grease,after treatmentwith acids to whiten it, is madeinto soap by means of strong caustic lye, rosinand a generous amount of perfumes added toconceal any lingering disagreeable odors. Physi-cians will tell you that in using such soaps thereis great danger of propagating skin diseases.

Mellocuti Soap contains in a modified form themedicinal properties of Mellocuti Cream, com-bined with balsams and gums, which have amost delicate and fascinating odor, besides beingin the highest degree beneficial for cutaneousaffections. Its healing qualities are far greaterthan those of all other soaps combined. It puri-fies and invigorates the pores and glands of theskin, removes all unwholesome matter whichcreates pimples, black-heads, eczema, dandruff,barber’s itch, and cures many forms of skinblemishes which are not effected by other soaps.For shampooing and cleansing the scalp of

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crusts, dandruff and destroying germs and parasites, it is most efficacious.

MELLOCUTI LOTION.

In offering this delightful and fragrant Lotionfor the skin, it is our aim to excel all existingpreparations, to overcome the various objectionsand to make it more positive in its emollient,healing and curative qualities. It contains manyof the healing properties of the great skin cureMellocuti Cream, and for a day application toprotect the skin from the weather, prevent andcure chaps, sunburn or tan, it is as near infallibleas human hands can make it. Gentlemen aftershaving will find it a grateful application toallayirritation, protect the face from the weather andprevent soreness and infection.

CONCLUSION.

In response to repeated inquiries from ladieswith whom the Mellocuti Remedies have be-come so popular, asking if face powders are in-jurious, and can be used while using the Mello-cuti Remedies, I will state, that while themajority of face powders are injurious and willirritate, I can recommend thosebearing thenameof Hess strictly pure and innocent, viz.:—The Youthful Tint Powder, Heliotropine Pouderde Lis and Pouder ala Yiolette. I myself super-intend the compounding of all the toilet articlesfor the Youthful Tint Manufacturing Company,and know them to be perfectly harmless for thepurpose they are intended.

The Authok.

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General DirectionsFOR USING THE

MellocUti l^emedie^Melloctjti Cream may be applied to any part

of the external surface of the body, either by thefingers, by bandage, or by any means most con-venient. When there is not too much soreness,it is often better to rub it well in. It is alwaysbetter to cleanse the affected parts with MellocutiSoap and warm water, before applying the Cream.It is very useful in cuts, burns, scalds and forany application that an ointment would be usedfor. There can no ill effect arise from too fre-quent use, as it will not in the least irritate.

MELLOCUTI SOAP.For washing old sores, ulcers, cuts, etc., make

a lather with warm water, and use a soft sponge.For acne vulgaris and rosacea, make a paste ofthe soap by scraping it, mixed with hot waterenough to make it of the consistency of soft soap.Apply this paste by means of bandage to the af-fected parts at night and leave on until morning,when it can be washed off with a sponge andwarm water. Before washing, express all come-dones either with the finger nails or a watch key.To cleanse the scalp use as in shampooing. It isnot necessary to rinse the hair so thoroughly aswhen using other soaps, as the soap contains nocaustic lye, rosin or other ingredients injuriousto the scalp or hair.

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MELLOCUTI DIGEST.

Adult dose, one-fourth teaspoonful after eachmeal. It can be taken oftener in cases of severepain in the stomach. Place the dose on thetongue and close the mouth, allowing the salivato moisten it sufficiently to swallow without theaid of water or other liquid. It can be takenwith water, but is not so effective. It containsnothing in the least injurious, and will be foundof great service in all cases of indigestion.

MELLOCUTI LOTION.

For chapped hands, face or lips, bathe theparts in warm water and Mellocuti Soap and ap-ply the Lotion with a soft sponge or cotton, al-lowing it to dry. In very bad cases it should beapplied on soft linen, keeping it moist for twen-ty-four hours with the Lotion, or if the hand, apair of kid gloves may be worn at night. Forsunburn and tan, it should be used before andafter exposure. For brittle nails and Lang nails,wrap the fingers in sufficient cotton tokeep themmoist all night. To soften the skin, beautify thecomplexion, etc., apply daily with a soft spongeor linen, after bathing with Mellocuti Soap, al-lowing it to remain on a short time, then wipedry. If a face powder is to be used, it is betterto allow the Lotion to dry without wiping, andjust before it is dry it will be a little sticky, thenis the time to apply the powder with a puff andthen rub down with a soft chamois skin.

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THE HESS

I®) er> fU'm.es and Potle'i:THE ART OF FACIAL MASSAGE.

WHAT IS MASSAGE?The popular idea as to what constitutes Massage is

very vague and misty. The word is derived from theGreek masse, (to press softly). The practice of massageupon the human body is very ancient.

In some crude form, massage of the body has beenpracticed from the earliest times by both civilized andsavage people.

Among the Greeks and Homans the use ofmassage invarious forms was widely patronized by all classes.Athletes and Gladiators submitted to itafter their strug-gles, to strokeaway andrelieve the pain of their bruisesas well as for itsre-invigorating effects.

The treatment was given by ancient physicians, byslaves and by persons who were employed to train anddevelop athletes.

The term “massage ” in general, is now used to definea series ofoperations which are best accomplished withthe hands, with a hygienic objectin view, It is a systemof manual therapeutics, the value of whichmust be seenand experienced to be appreciated. Facial massagediffers in many important particulars from massage ofthe body. If one attempts to try the same treatment onthe face which is used in general massage, certain fail-ure will result.

The purpose of face massage is to obliterate wrinkles,seams and lines, remove and keep away “crows’ feet,”moth, tan, pimples, black heads, etc.; to round out theflesh and muscles and improve the expression. The skinof the body is remarkably absorbent; that of the face isessentially different, for it is absorbent to only a veryslight degree. The face is constantly exposed to wind,storm and dust, while the body is covered and protectedfrom theseelements. The face is exposed to the weather;subjected to variations of temperature, dust, wind andneglect. Perhaps theporesare filledwithmineral washes,face powders, dangerous ‘‘face bleaches” and creams,which not only remain unabsorbed on the surface, clog-ging the pores, but containrank poison. Proper nourish-

meat is not supplied, and a wasting away of the skinflesh and muscles must result in wrinkles and lines. Ifproper exercise is given the muscles and tissues, and theskin fed and nourished with “ Youthfid Tint MassageCream," the waste can he stopped and the skinbroughtback to itsnatural and normal condition.

Youthful Tint Massage Creamis chemicallypreparedto allay all irritation of the skin, remove roughness andredness, to feed and nourish the glands and tissues,remove moth, tan, black heads, remove and preventwrinkles. Is chemically pureand freefrom lead,arsenic,mercury, bismuth, animal grease or vaseline, and tvar-ranted never to become rancid., There is great danger of propagating the worst formsof Skin Disease by using Rancid grease. Youthful TintMassage Creamis of intrinsic valueinarresting Paralysisand decay of the musclesand tissues of the skin causedby lead and mercury face powders, washes and facebleaches. Price, Youthful Tint Massage Cream,$l.OO per box. with full instructions how to massagethp f*Q PP

“YOUTHFUL TINT SOAP.”"Youthful Tint Soap is made frompure Italian Olive Oil

and Cocoa Nut Oil, with antisepticand germacide prop-erties of sufficientstrength toward off most contagiousskin diseases, and is an emollient of superior merit. Itcontains nothing which is in the least injurious to theskin or fabric andis as fragrant as violets. Its aroma isa combination of the finest odors, which make it a de-lightful article, while the very low price is within thereach ofall whodesire a pure and fragrant Toilet Soap.Price 25 cents per cake

The topical toilet applications so far prescribed aremainly intended for sanitary purposes. Remedies theyare indeed, for treating badcomplexions ; and now thatwe have prescribed a foundation for a beautiful com-plexion, we would recommend the use of The Hess.Complexion Powders, the only perfectly pure andharmless face powderwith which we are acquainted, andwhich comes very highly recommended by both themedical and theatrical professions and the elite.

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COMPLEXION POWDERS.Hess’ Famous Heliotropine Poudre de Lis, Price SI 00per box.Hess’ Fragrant Poudre a la Yiolette, Price 50 cents perbox.Hess’ Celebrated Youthful Tint Powder, Price 25 centsper box.The above Face Powders stand unrivaled for the im-

palpable, adherent, invisible, highly perfumed andremarkable softnessthey impart to the skin. Preparedin three shades—White, Pink and Brunette.

HESS’ “YOUTHFUL TINT LIQUID.”The Acme Beautifier is foundby chemical analysis to

containno quality in the least injurious, but is strictly ascientific preparation which can be used on the mostdelicate skin with perfect impunity. ”Youthful Tint”not only beautifies the complexion, but contains in amodified form medicinal propertieswhich have the mostfamous curative powers ofmodern times forCutaneousAffections. Wrinkles appear as soon as the skin loses itsnutritive oil, ” Youthful Tint” supplies this waste oftissue incident upon the work of time and disease andmakes it youthful, and is beautifying in its effects. It isput up in three colors to suit thedifferent complexions ;

White, Pink and Brunette. Price SO cents perbottle.

HESS’ ROUGE DE THEATRE.Is a preparation that will be duly appreciated by all whodesire torestore by art the bloom of youth. ThisTabletRouge stands without a rival. It imparts to the palecolorless cheeks a beautiful girlhood freshness that willdeceive the most fastidious observer.Rouge de Theatre No. 18, Screw top box, price 25 cents.Rouge de Theatre No. 18, price 25 cents.

HESS’ “MASOARO."With brush for applying to very light color eyebrows,

and for gray mixed hair on the temples, our Mascaro isan article highly appreciated by all who have made useof burned matches, grease eye-brow pencils, etc., asitdoes not soil the skin or handkerchiefin removing per-spiration, and is so perfectly natural in its effects. Pre-pared in threecolors—Black, Brown andBlonde. Pricefor Mascara •with Brush, 50 Cents per box.

“RUBY Ml’,” or « CHEKRYOLA.”These cosmetics, Buby Lips and Cherryola, are articles

of intrinsic value, as they not only impart a glow ofhealth and beauty to the lips, cheeks and fingernails,but are invaluable toilet requisites for chapped and drylips ; prevent and cure hang-nails, soften the cuticlearound the naii, and aid their healthy growth. War-ranted not tobecome rancid. Price ofBuby Pip per•far,50 Cents. Cherryola per Jar, 23 Cents,

CAKE OE THE NAILS.Next in importance to a beautiful face is a beautiful

hand ; and the shape and beauty of the hand dependsvery much upon the shape, color andproper care of thenails. By inattentionto these, thefingers lose thenaturaltapering form so much admired, and become flat, cubbedor “talon-like.” Hang-nails and ill-shaped, uneven nailsare actual deformities, which mar the symmetry andbeauty of the hand. Now the proper careand treatmentof the nails is generallyneglected for the want ofproperappliances, such asare contained in a manicure’s case,viz : Nail File, Nail Emery, Nail Polish, Nail Scissors,and Nail Brush. With these and a box of “Pearl NailPowder” and “RubyLip,” a lady is quite independentof the manicure. This newly discovered Finger Nail

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Powder produces a beautiful ruby finish to the nails, asbrilliant as diamonds. Full directions for use accom-pany each box. Price for Pearl Nail Powder, 60Cents per boat. Price for Nail Enamel, 25Cents per box.

PERFUMESTRIPLE EXTRACTS.

Rochester Bouquet,Crap Apple Blossom,Stephanotis,Purple Lilac,Pansy Blossom,Ylang Ylang,

Spanish Beauty,Rosa Alba,Lily of theValley,Swiss Bells,Jocky Club,Wild Violet,

At 50 cents per Ounce.SEXTUPLE EXTRACTS.

Imperial Violet and Frangipanni,At $l.OO per Ounce.

Peau dt Espagne, Musk, and Leap-Year Bouquet,At 75 cents per Ounce.

The above are the only American Perfumes thatequal the finest French and English, and are of nearlydouble the strength of any other odors on the marketand ofmuch finer quality.

White Rose,White Hyacinth,White Heliotrope,Paris Bouquet,Geranium Rose,Amaryllis Lily,

SPECIAL ODORS.

At 40 cents per Ounce.

Carnation Pink,Mystic Spray,Lily Spray,White Lilac,Mignonette,Peach Blossom,

to tl?e QomplexioQ.Inresponse to repeated inquiries from ladies asking, in

case of havingan oily, rough or red skin, what would betheproper make-up to use—Forred oroily skin nothinghas ever proved one-half so effective as Mellocuti Soap,and by the aid of Mellocuti Lotion, no ladyneed complainof a red, rough or oily skin.

Voutfafal Tint Liquid fnake«up."Wash the faceand neck with warm water and Mello-

cuti Soap, then while the skin is moist apply YouthfulTintLiquid with a wet, soft sponge asper directions oneach bottle. We would recommend the “ BrunetteTint,” only where the skin lacks color, then Pink Tint isbetter. White liquid or powder should only be used onthe stage. TheBrunette Tintis a natural flesh color, andwill purify and brighten the skin and give a charm-ing effect.

For tinting the cheeks, chin and lips, we recommendCherryola. It should be applied true to nature, beingparticular in blending the outer edges. Then for thecheeks and chin apply a little face powder with a puff;this reduces the colorto a natural tint. For the lips, tosubdue thesuperfluousoil, place a cleannapkin between,and press the lips. Cherryolais a perfect blood colorbe-sides being a mostdelightfulapplication forchapped lipsand skin. Rouge de Theatre is a gas-light color andmore intended for the theatre.

For the eye-brows and grey mixed hair apply “ Mas-caro,” always selecting theshade of, ora shade darkerthan the naturalhair. After itis dry pass a fine toothcomb throughthe hair. Our Mascaro is not only harm-less, but a tonic for both the skin andhair.

paee Poxxtdefl make-ap.Always wash the face and neck with warm water and

Mellocuti Soap and before wiping apply Mellocuti Lotion,then pat the skin with a soft towel until dry. For applyingthe lotion usea soft sponge. Next apply Cherryola as in theliquid make-up, then select your face powder and applywith a puff, then rub it down witha soft chamois skin, (thelonger you use the chamois skin without cleaning thebetter.) The “Mascaro” is now applied as In the liquidmake-up. By the use of Mellocuti Lotion, Violette or Helio-troplne powder, no lady can contract skin disease. TheMellocutiLotion will hold the powder in place, smooth theskin, and give a charming effect. No gentleman can con-tract barber’s itch when Mellocuti Lotion is applied aftershaving. It contains stronger antiseptics and germicideproperties than Carbolic Acid, and having no poisonous orirritatingingredients, you must agree with us that it is acharming article, so delicate and harmless we use it onbabies.

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ft Boon to the Theatrical Profession

MR. CHAS. D. HESS’

GREASE PAINTS,BERLIN SHAPES.

On sale in all the Largest Cities in the Country.

Mr. Chas, D. Hess, the originator of theseGrease Paints, has made a study of the samefor years and has successfully overcome allthe objections to the old and dangerous styles.These Paints unlike others are absolutely harm-less and are made from the purest and mostexpensive materials. They are now used bythe leading members of the profession.

Hess’ Grease Paints from yourDealer and have no other.

No. I.—Very Light Flesh Color.“ 2.—Deeper Tint Flesh Color.“ 3.—Natural Flesh, )“ 4.—Rose Tint, V For JuvenileHeroes.“ s.—Deeper Shade, \“ 6.—Healthy Sunburnt.“ 7. “ “ Deeper Shade.“ B.—Sallow, for Young Men.“ 9.—Healthy Color, for Middle Age.“ 10.—Sallow for Old Age.“ 11 -Ruddy. “ " “

“ 12.—Olive, Healthy.

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“ 13.—Olive Lighter Shade.“ 14.—Gipsy Flesh Color.“ 15.—Othello.“ 16—Chinese.“ 17.—Indian.

18 —East Indian.“ 19.—Jap.“ 20.—Mulatto.

ANY OTHER COLOR MADE TO ORDER.Done up in sticks four inches in length, one inch in

diameter, at 35 cents each. Warranted not to becomerancid. Small size, four inches long, 20 cents per stick.

A box of Assorted GreasePaints, containing the follow-ing colors: Two Shadesof Flesh, one Black, one Brown,one Lake or Flesh, one Crimson, one White, one Car-mine and one Gray, $l.OO. Warranted not to becomerancid.

Lining colors, Black, Brown, Crimson, Gray, White,Lake or Flesh, four inches long, 10 cents per stick.

Carmine Paint, small size, 15 cts. per stick.Carmine Paint, medium size, 38 cts per stick.Carmine Paint, large size, 75 cts. perstick.Blue Paint, for eye lashes, 18 cts. perstick.Cherryola Grease Rouge, per pot, 35 cts.Ruby Lip Grease Rouge,per pot, 35 cts.Rose Tint Rouge, per pot, 35 cts.

CRAYONS.Blonde Crayon, 15 cts.LightBlue Crayon, 15 cts.Rose Tint Crayon, 15 cts.DarkBlue Crayon, 15cts.Carmine Crayon, 15 cts.

SPIRIT GUM.

For Pasting on Beards, Moustaches, Whiskers, etc.Price 25 cts. per bottle.

Rouge de Theatre, No. 18. Price 25 cts.

YOUTHFUL TINT POWDER.For stage use, putup in screw cover cans.No. 1, White. No. 2, Pink. No. 2%, Pink, lighter shade.

No. 3, Brunette. No. 4, Light Flesh. No. 4%, Rose Tint.No. 5, Ruddy Old Man. No. 6, Sallow. No. 7, Sunburnt.No. 8, Olive. No. 9, Chinese. No. 10, Indian. No. 11,Othello. No. 12, Gypsy. No. ‘S%, Blonde. No. 8%, Gray,

lb. cans, 50 cents, 1-lb. cans, $l. Small boxes, 25 cents.LIQUID YOUTHFUL TINT, “EXTRA HEAVY.”

For stage use only.For the Face, Arms, and Neck: White, Pink, and Bru-

nette, also Gipsy, Creole, Indian, etc., per bottle, 60 cts.MASCARO

Is used to darken the hair and whiskers. It is a water-color and will not rub off when dry ; easily removedwith soap and water. In Black, Brown, Blonde, Red,White, Gray, without brush, 25 cents.

EXOVIA PASTE.

For facial enameling it is a harmless application,changing the complexion temporarily. It is put up inthree colors, white, pink, and brunette, in Opal Glass,with Screw Cover. Warranted not to become rancid.Price 50 cents per Jar.

Black Wax isused for blocking out the teeth. Thewax is worked soft with the fingers and pressed to thedesiredteeth. It will adhere ofitself. 20 cents.

Cold Cream, Perfumed. Warranted not to getrancid. Manufactured from the finest Oils and Wax.Will not make the hair grow as Vaseline Cold Cream willdo, but is pure, clean, and fragrant. Put up in screw-cover tin boxes. 1 lb. box, #1.00; %-lb. box, 50 cents.Small size in Opal Glass box, screw cover, 15 and 25cents, twosizes. Used in removingallkindsofmake-up.Leaves the face soft and not irritated.

Nose Putty. Price 25 cents.Burnt Cork, 2 oz., 25 cents.Send us k centsfor the Art of Stage Make-up.

F*kick; List.

Mellocuti Cream, perpot. $0.50Mellocuti Digest, per bottle 50Mellocuti Soap, per cake .50Mellocuti Lotion, perbottle, Trial size .25

“ “ “ “ Large size .50Youthful Tint Massage Cream 1.00Heliothopine Poudre de Lis, per box... 1.00Poudre a La Yiolbtte, per box 50Youthful Tint Soap, per cake .25Youthful Tint Powder, per box .25Youthful Tint Liquid, for street use, per bottle 50Mascaro, with Brush, per box .50Pearl Nail Powder, perbox 50Finger Nail Enamel, per box .25Ruby Lip Manicure Cream, per pot 50Cberryola Lip and Cheek Rouge, per pot .25Rouge de Theatre, perbox, No. is - .25

STAGE MAKE-UP.Rouge de Theatre, No. 18, per pot 25Ruby Lip Grease Rouge, perpot .35Chkrryola Grease Rouge, perpot : .35Exovia Paste, per pot _. .50Youthful Tint Liquid, per bottle. Extra Heavy 60Youthful Tint Powder, cans, 50 c.; 1 lb 90Grease Paints, Flesh, per stick 35Grease Paint, Flesh, small size 30Grease Paint Make-up, boxes I.GOGrease Paints, Lining Color, per stick .10Carmine, Large, per stick .75Carmine, Medium, perstick ..... .38Carmine, Small, per stick... .15Blub Paint for Eve Lash .18Spirit Gum, per bottle... 25

Eg*“These goods (except Mellocuti Lotion, YouthfulTint Liquid, Spirit Gum, and Perfume extracts) will besent to any part of the United States and Canada, onreceipt of P. O. Order, covering the price, orby ExpressC. O.D. U. S. Mail will not carry liquid.

Sold by Druggists and Fancy GoodsDealers Everywhere.

PUBLISHED AND PRESENTED BY

THE YOUTHFUL TINT MFC. COMPANY,ROCHESTER, N. Y., U. S. A.