Pre-trip Information (FISHING/TACKLE)

CHRISTMAS ISLAND

Christmas Island offers unquestionably the finest bonefish angling in the world - in terms of numbers of fish and average size, the stability of climatic

conditions year- round, and the inclusive cost for a week, we would also add that, like bonefishing anywhere, you'll have good days and lesser days - it's even

possible to get skunked! Wind, tides, weather, and your ability to see fish and make accurate presentations are variables. However, if you have a poor day,

there's no place we know of where you have a better chance to catch 20 or even more nice bonefish on the fly the next time out. That realistic potential is always

there and is a joy for both novice and "expert". THERE IS NO FISHING TACKLE FOR SALE OR RENT ON THE

ISLAND - YOU MUST BRING YOUR OWN.

FISHING AREAS Shore Fishing. Most of the good fishing is accessible by road. This method of reaching the flats is called "shore fishing" by the islanders.

Driven by small Isuzu pickups, you can fish popular areas like Little Plantation, Lone Palm Flat, the Bathing Lagoon, Y Site, the Poland 9-Mile Flat, the various

Fly Sites within the lagoon complex, the M Site, and the Korean Wreck on the southwest coast. The trucks have simple rod holders, so you can "tackle up" at

the hotel or when you reach your destination. The roads are surprisingly good over most of the island and, depending on where you're going, driving time may

be as little as 10 minutes - the longest, 1.5 hours. Vehicles will drop people in various places, or you all begin in one location and

spread out. Before dispersing, arrange a lunch rendezvous; agree that you're going to fish for an hour before deciding whether to move, etc. There's plenty of elbow room for anglers who will subsequently not fish the same water twice in

a day and who will often be out of sight from their neighbours.

Skiff Fishing. A skiff is a large, heavy, wide-beamed, outboard-powered boat that

accommodates four anglers. You travel from the hotel to London, a 25-minute drive, to pick up the skiff. It travels across the main lagoon to the extensive and

productive lagoon flats east of the Paris Peninsula, and to the south and east shores of the lagoon. Punts must be viewed as a means of transportation only,

and very slow at that - it's virtually impossible to fish the flats from them. They will take you to areas where you can get out and wade, with the boat offering

the opportunity to move, if necessary. It's also your "mothership" for lunch, cold drinks, and a place to rest with sun protection. The skiffs can be used for

trevally

fishing in the lagoon or, on calm days, out past the lagoon entrance in the blue water where big trevally, tuna, and wahoo are often active.

Flats/Bottom Substrate Virtually all of the bone fishing is by wading. Ninety percent of the flats are

either white or yellowish sand, coral marl, and, in a few cases, coral shelves which can be brownish in color. There is little or no grass on any of the flats -

they are clean and most of them offer very firm wading. However, there are some soft areas that generally should be avoided and are usually limited in size.

Before exploring a flat, ask your guide to point out any soft areas of which he's aware. A tipoff is the lightest (or whitest) areas, sometime with a puffy extruded

appearance, or places where there are undulating depressions with burrow holes in the bottom, which were made by giant snapping shrimp. It's frightening and

sometimes difficult to extricate yourself from knee-deep muck, so be careful where you wade, If you're not a confident wader, a stout wading staff will be helpful.

We strongly suggest the "buddy system," staying within sight of another person al all times who can help if you get stuck, inadvertently hook yourself, or have

any other problem. This is also a safeguard against getting lost or fouling up a rendezvous with your vehicle or boat.

Christmas's Tidal Nuances and Finding Fish

The productivity of any given flat is often related to tidal fluctuations. Typically, the bonefishing is better during the incoming tide. After being left

high and dry for many hours, invertebrates and crustaceans actively emerge from the sand and coral to feed on the fresh wave of zooplakton and detritus -

the bonefish quickly capitalize on this "oceanic happy hour" - this is when they seem to be most aggressive. The tides fluctuate in cycles of anywhere from about three to seven days,

depending on the moon phase. For example, there may be four days of wide tidal fluctuation (spring tide) followed by six days of more moderate fluctuation

(neap tide). During weeks where the "spring" tides predominate (i.e., 3 feet between high and low tide), the "critical feeding period" is comparatively short,

sometimes lasting for only four hours. Although during this period the fishing may be terrific, the down side is that it doesn't last long; but when the tide has

peaked, or even when it is subsiding, you'll still be able to catch plenty of fish. Weeks with gradual tidal fluctuations offer the angler more balanced fishing

throughout the day, since the bones will be up on the flats longer and they won't be on the move as much as they are during the heavy tides. Either way, it's hard

to lose at Christmas, and you'll usually see more bones in a single day than you would during a whole week at other destinations.

When looking for productive locations, try to determine the direction of the tidal current. Bonefish will almost always swim against the tide, and, therefore,

you should position yourself so that the fish will be coming toward you and not vice versa. Depending on the water level of the flat and status of the tide (rising

or falling), bonefish will position themselves so that they will have optimum feeding time on the flat. If the tide is rising, the bones will usually come onto

the flat in an initial wave, followed by a string of "stragglers". If you can find a "highway" or a channel where the fish are entering the flat, stay put and let them

come to you - if there is one fish in he area, chances are there will be more where it came from. On the receding tide, fish will often congregate in the tidal

channel mouths, often holding in the current like a big pod of trout as they feed on the food that is being scoured off the flat.

Certain areas, such as Paris and Poland (also called 9- Mile) flats, seem to be especially tide-sensitive - with the best fishing usually on a rising tide up

through high tide. Conversely, other fine fishing areas like the expansive Y Site complex seem less affected by tidal influence. They can be just great at dead low tide. Normally, it will not be necessary to fish any flat greater than knee

deep, and you'll often have productive fishing in water 6-12 inches deep. Pick the deeper flats for low tide fishing and work on ability to see into deeper water

at the edges - where the biggest bonefish are often cruising. You may encounter bonefish that are aggressive takers and seem almost totally

unconcerned with your presence - or on other flats under different conditions, you may find fish that refuse to take even though they're not spooked. The

combination is exciting, and you must be prepared to alter your approach and casts accordingly. Generally, these fish are not as sophisticated as you might

have encountered in other areas, and there are usually enough of them that you don't have to feel the pressure of making every presentation perfect. Make

perfection your target, however, because you never know when you'll have a shot at that tailing 10-pounder. If you're looking for big fish, concentrate on the edges of the flats, particularly

those with some coral, and on the upwind side. The bigger fish tend to come out of deep water, feed a few moments on the flats, and then fade back into deep

water. They're often at a depth where visibility is most difficult, and you can mistake them for trevally at first glance. The big fish tend to be singles and

doubles and are often first seen when tailing. They tend not to be on flats that are busy with schools of smaller bonefish. The ocean sites, like M Site and

Korean Wreck, are good for big bones. They tend to be best on calm days, especially during a rising tide but before it's too high, as the water depth then

obscures your visibility. There are often big bonefish on these coral flats, and they are also good locations for big trevally on the fly rod.

Presentation, Techniques and The Battle...

Being ready for a rapid presentation is very important. Always have a reasonable amount of line out of your reel and ready to cast. You may want to

use a stripping basket, which facilitates "shooting" the line and reduces tangles . Often you won't know what direction the fish are coming from -

many times bones materialize out of nowhere. Have your line out and ready to cast so you can present the fly immediately.

Bonefish Behavior

Bonefish have three basic modes of behavior which are likely to be encountered. The angler's presentation will be determined accordingly.

1. "Tailing" - While feeding with their snouts buried in the bottom substrate, bonefish will often stick their wavering tails out of the water. As this occurs, the

angler can usually throw a fly or lure almost directly on top of them without spooking them. Whenever bones are tailing, you can be sure that they are

feeding and thus highly absorbed in what they are doing. Tailing fish are usually encountered at either the initial influx of the incoming tide or the very peak/high point of high tide. In both cases, the bones will be trying to get at flats freshly

covered with water to monopolize on the "water activate" flats organisms. 2. "Mudding" - On the deeper parts of the flats, individual or groups of

bonefish will often stir up the bottom detritus as they grub for food. This cloud of mud or "marl" tends to make the bones feel quite secure and often the angler

can catch one after another without spooking the school. 3. "Cruising" - Are generally the most difficult fish to present a fly or lure to

because they aren't necessarily interested in feeding. When bones are cruising, they are much more aware of their surroundings and therefore extreme care

should be taken in presentation. When casting to cruising fish, remember to place your offering well ahead of the fish and let it settle until the fish is right

on top of it. If the fly or lure is placed too close to a cruising fish, it will immediately bolt for safer waters. No matter what "mode" a given fish is in, always let the fly settle to the bottom.

The amount of time it will take the fly to sink will depend on the weight of the fly, water depth, and speed of tidal current (if any), so place your fly in front of

the fish to compensate for these variables. Once the fish gets within a couple of feet of the fly, a fast strip seems to get the bonefish's attention. After you see

him turn to the fly or follow as you strip, slow down at that point to the inch-by-inch strip. Make sure the fly is moving. You may have to tease the fish into

striking, and, by varying the retrieve rate, the fish will usually stay interested. Always pull your fly away from a fish - never toward it.

Another productive technique is a fast strip followed by a dead stop. If the fish sees the fly, he will pick it up after it has settle to the bottom. The fish will

usually pop its tail up as it takes the fly and the hook should be set immediately after this occurs; you will actually see many fish pick up the fly before you feel

them. Many people miss a lot of fish because they don't set the hook in time -

the fish has picked up the fly but hasn't been felt and drops it again. When setting the hook, apply a moderate pressure to the fly line with your stripping

hand and raise the rod at an angle, so if you miss the fish, the fly will still be in its vicinity. Don't jerk - many bonefish turn violently at the moment they feel

the hook and that, combined with too hard a hook set, will usually snap the leader.

As soon as the fish begins to run, it is very important to get the fish "on the reel" by clearing any line that you have stripped in. The key here is to undo any

tangles that may exist in your rapidly - disappearing line before they reach the first stripping guide. If any uncooperative tangle does reach the guide, the usual

result is only a broken leader (and perhaps slightly bruised pride). If you are using really heavy leader, you may be in for a ride. Then the fish will change

directions and you can clear the line. Always keep your fly rod as high as possible - this will help keep the line out of the coral and other potential

hazards. Bonefish have tough mouths and very sharp hooks are important. Resharpen hooks with a hone after every three or four fish. Vary your retrieval technique if

you have refusals and, of course, change flies after two or three refusals in a row.

Try to keep false casts to a minimum, and once you have a hookup, follow the fish where practical, holding your rod as high as you can. Larger bonefish can

develop great bellies of line and backing on long runs and can easily break your leader, or even the backing, on pieces of coral, If you're on a clean flat without

coral, you don't have to worry as much about following the fish. From the angler's perspective (especially the novice), spotting these elusive, well-

camouflaged creatures can be difficult. A good pair of polarized sunglasses and a long billed hat with dark underside are essential. The fist day or two you may

have to rely on the guide - their exceptional fish - spotting ability will leave you dumbfounded - but, in time, your eyes will sharpen, and you'll see fish with increasing ease. (One great thing about Christmas is that you can do quite well

by just blind casting). If you get multiple refusals in your first hour of fishing, even with frequent fly

changes, or spook fish with good casts or even by initiating your back cast - move on. Don't waste time on a barren flat. We've had these experiences and

found that 200 yards away, conditions can be very favorable. The angler who is willing to walk, hunting and exploring as he goes, tends to be more successful.

At times, one even has the opportunity when covering a lot of ground to "size" pods of bonefish, working on the largest ones. With so many fish available, it's

easy to miss big-fish opportunities while stalking smaller bones. If you're tired or don't like to fish that way, pick the most productive spot you can find and

wait for them to come to you. At certain times of the day they may come and go constantly from deep water into the shallower areas, feeding for a few moments

and then ghosting away. One of the best places for waiting "in ambush" is a protrusion of the flat area out into deeper water - not meaning that

the water is necessarily deeper on this protrusion, but pick an area that extends beyond the normal contour of the flat. The guides will always try to get you on

the lee area of water where, in most cases, from morning through early afternoon, you'll have both the sun and wind at your back.

A Note to Novice Saltwater Fly Anglers: Although the bonefish at Christmas

Island are not as wary as at many other flats locations, the ability to make fairly long and especially accurate casts will play a vital role in your overall success.

Try to develop a cast of approximately 70-80 feet. If you can cast 70 feet, you will be able to make most casts effortlessly. Also, in saltwater, many casts are

made into or across the wind, so the ability to make a longer cast becomes important. An 80-foot downwind cast might be only a 40-feet cast into a stiff

breeze. Even if you feel fairly secure about your casting effectiveness, we strongly recommend that you take a few casting lessons to perfect the "double haul" as well as your accuracy and technique. Then practice casting (in the wind

if possible) at least 10 minutes a day the week before you arrive.

FLY TACKLE FOR BONEFISH (and Small Trevally) Fly Rods: For bonefish and small trevally, 9 to 9 1/2 feet graphite rods in 7 or

8-weight are ideal. (Keep in mind that 4-piece rods are much more convenient that 2-piece outfits and can be carried with you on commercial flights -

alleviating any worry about arriving in some remote destination rodless). Beginners and novices would be better off with an 8-weight, because heavier

line weights "load" easier than do smaller ones - plus they are more powerful in windy conditions. Many people prefer the new high modular graphite rods such

as the Orvis HLS, G. Loomis "IMX" series, or the Sage RPL-S series. These are extremely powerful and have a super-fast action. They are ideal for handling saltwater-taper lines, heavy flies, and for applying maximum pressure to

fighting fish. Take at least two rods in case you break one.

Reels: Choose reels with reliable, smooth, adjustable drags. No fish will stress a reel

like a bonefish, so bring sturdy, high-quality models in the appropriate sizes and specifically designed for saltwater use. Among other, Scientific Anglers, Orvis,

Abel, Billy Pate, and ATH all make good models. Reels must hold your line and at least 150 yards of 20lb. dacron backing; 200 yards would be better because

you'll often need it if you get into bonefish over 6 or 7 pounds, which is likely. We have had many reports of anglers being "spooled" on the first run of big

bonefish. Although most Christmas Island anglers feel comfortable with direct-drive reels, some fishermen - especially novices - may want to consider anti-

reverse models. The handle on these reels remains stationary when running

bonefish pull line off the reel. The handles on direct-drive reels spin rapidly when fish run, and this can result in bruised knuckles and even lost fish.

Take a spare reel and/or extra spools with you each day so that you can regroup on the flat should you lose a fly line.

Note:

Wipe down your rods and reels with a damp cloth and fresh water after each fishing day. Use the drinking water in your room for this purpose - water from

the shower or basin taps is brackish and not suitable. Reels should be lubricated frequently, especially if they're not specifically designed for saltwater use.

Lines:

Take saltwater-taper floating lines in high- visibility colors. It's often hard to see your line in the air or on the water in the bright-light conditions of these flats, so

choose contrasting line colors if possible. (A tip from Lefty Kreh is to dye your fly line black for good visibility). Take an extra fly line or two, just in case, plus an extra spool of dacron backing. Big bone tend to feed at the edges of flats in

3-5 foot water. Some anglers feel that intermediate lines are better when fishing the deeper water because they get the fly down faster and, in some cases,

bottom substrate doesn't allow the use of lead-eyed flies due to snagging problems. (This is a rare exception, though). Clean your lines every night with

line conditioner.

Leaders: Use 9-12 foot leaders in the 10-15 pound range. Generally, Christmas Island

bones are not leader shy, so don't be afraid to use 15lb. tippet. Don't forget extra spools of 10-,12- and 15 pound clear tippet material (do not take the brown

Maxima leader material - its dark color scares these fish). When fishing, check your leader frequently for wind knots and coral abrasion, and change tippets as often as necessary. We recommend the use of stiff, abrasion-resistant leader and

tippet material such as Mason, Ande, Orvis "Big Game Supertough," or clear Maxima. Leader toughness is important because hooked bones seem to seek out

the nearest outcropping of stag- horn coral to try and cut you off. Be prepared to lose many fish this way.

Fly Selection:

One of the things that makes Christmas Island so great is that the bonefish are not especially picky when it comes to flies, but we do offer the following

guidelines: There are several factors that dictate proper fly selection at Christmas Island. When choosing the color of the fly, it's best to try and match

the bottom coloration as closely as possible. If you're fishing on a very light colored flat, cream or white patterns are best. If the bottom is tan or off-color,

then patterns in various shades of brown should be most productive. Flies with

orange in them seem to be productive in areas rich in coral life. The general guideline is to switch colors if you're getting multiple refusals.

Size:

In most cases, Christmas Island bones prefer patterns in size 4. If you are fishing in very shallow water, where the fish are tailing, try a size 6, since it can

be presented in a much more subtle manner. When fishing in deeper water (drop offs and channel cuts), flies up to size 2 can used.

Sink Rate:

Water depth and degree of tidal current should influence your choice of weighted or unweighted flies. The selection of flies that follows represents

everything from unweighted to heavy. Bonefish feed almost exclusively on invertebrates and crustaceans living in the sand or coral, so it's unnatural to

present patterns that are not right on the bottom. On deeper flats with coral-free bottoms, such as Paris flat, flies with lead eyes are best because they sink to the bottom faster. When you make your presentation to a fish, you want the fly to

be resting on the bottom when you begin your retrieve; thus, when making your cast, plan it so that you give the fly time to sink to the bottom before the fish

comes to the fly. If you are unfamiliar with what patterns to use in any given water condition, consult with your guide and he can help you make the best

selection. The general rule is: the shallower the water, the smaller/lighter the fly.

A Typical Christmas Island Fly Box for Bonefish (and Small Trevally)

Bring 4-6 dozen Crazy Charlies with bead-chain eyes. Although many fly colors are effective (including beige, brown, orange, white, pink and green), flies tied

in shades of yellow seem to be consistent producers over a wide variety of bottom types. Krystal flash and flashabou tinsel - whether used as a body-wrap, wing or tail-seem to make most flies more attractive to the fish.

Epoxy flies (M.O.E.) in various colors, such as the Epoxy Puff, Nix Epoxy and

Epoxy/Ultra Shrimp, have also proven reliable. For deeper flats or flats free of coral, flies with lead eyes will get you down to the bottom faster. Some good

ones are Clouser Minnows (size 4 or 2) and the Marabou Lead-Eye Charlies. Have a dozen or so lead eyes in your box. Some other well-established

Christmas Island flies: Motivator, Baited Breath, Horror, Gotcha, Bonefish Special, and Crazy Yellow. All patterns should be tied fairly sparsely since

heavily dressed flies seem to be regularly refused. The Christmas Island guides - who are well aware of prevailing bonefish fly preferences- are tying some very

acceptable flies, and they would appreciate it if you bought some of theirs. In fact, Umpqua is now offering through their dealers four flies developed

specifically for the island by Christmas guide Moana Kofe.

Please pinch down the barbs on the hooks of your flies with long nosed pliers.

You won't lose one out of fifteen fishing barbless. This makes it so much easier to release fish unharmed, and many people feel the barbless hook actually

works better in penetrating the tough tissue of the bonefish's mouth.

LIGHT SPINNING FOR BONEFISH (and Small Trevally) Recommended Lures:

Various jigs and Spin Charlies are the preferred choice among spin fishermen for bonefish.

Jigs: Gaines Phillips "Wiggle Jig" in 1/8 oz., colors: white yellow, brown, and pink;

Saltwater leadhead jigs in 1/8 oz., to which you attach 2" Mister Twister-type jig bodies in the following colors: pink, brown/orange, white, yellow, and white.

(As a variation, you can also attach these tails to Wiggle Jigs). Spin Charles in white, pink, tan, and yellow.

One of the best ways for the spin caster to catch bonefish is using the fly! Here's

how you do it. Get some Crazy Charlies and tie the fly directly to your monofilament line with an improved clinch knot. Attach 1/4-3/8 oz. of split shot

1-1/2to 2-1/2 feet up the line from the fly - or enough weight that you can cast 50 - 60 feet.

While retrieving, twitch the fly or lure with intermittent short jig motions, allowing the sinker to bounce on the bottom. It will create small puffs of marl or

sand, which will attract the bonefish. You will be amazed how they will jump on the lure (or fly). Don't cast too close to fish you spot - they will spook from

the sound of the lure hitting the water. You can see or feel the fish take. Set the hook with a firm, smooth lifting of the rod. Don't jerk or set too hard. Always try to keep a tight line, because the take can often be very subtle.

For small trevally

small spoons such as the Blue/Silver Kastmaster with or without bucktail, and various surface and subsurface "minnow-type" lures such as Heddon "Zara

Spook" (G-Finish Shad and/or Chrome) or small Rapalas in blue/silver or black/silver.

Rods: should be light - to medium-action and long enough to keep running fish from

breaking off on coral and other obstacles. High modular rods will greatly increase rod sensitivity. A few examples are: Loomis IM6 spinning, 7fl., for

lure wt. 1/16 to 5/16 oz. (2pc.) Orvis 6-1/2 ft., for lure wt. 3/16 to 1/2 oz. Abu-Garcia IM6 graphite, 7ft., for lure wt. 1/4 to 5/8 oz. (2pc.) Fenwick HMG,

Spinning, 7 ft., for lure wt. 1/8 to 3/8 oz. (2 pc.)

Reels: Reels should be able to hold at least 200 yards of 6-8 lb. test. A smooth drag is

essential to avoid breaking off fish. Here are a few examples: Diawa - SS Tournament Whisker or Black Gold

Series Shimano - any of the "Aero" Series Orvis - #2 spinning reel Penn - Spinfisher 430SS

Line: a limp monofilament such as Abu-Garcia's "Ultra Cast" or DuPont's "Magna Thin".

Presentation:

When the fish are spotted, it will be important to determine what the fish is doing (i.e., cruising, tailing or mudding). If the fish are mudding in deeper

water, you don't need to worry about spooking them and can simply cast your offering within the "marl" and retrieve it.

Tailing fish are more wary. When presenting your lure to tailing fish, it is best to cast well beyond the fish (over 10 feet with the line almost directly on top of the fish) and then retrieve the lure directly toward it.

When the lure reaches the vicinity of where the bone is feeding, slow the lure down and bounce it through its line of vision. If it doesn't respond, repeat the

process until the fish spots your offering. Cruising fish are the most difficult to catch due to their extremely wary

condition. Once fish are spotted, you must be able to quickly and accurately place your offering well in front of its path (over 25 feet is safest). If the fish are

continually spooking, try using a different or lighter lure.

FISHING FOR TREVALLY

There are six species of trevally, a member of the jack family (Caranx spp.) called Ulua by locals, in the waters of Christmas Island. Any angler who grapples with one will come away impressed and ready for another battle. The

varieties include one species that resembles the pompano in both finlets and tenacity, and grows to nearly 20 pounds. Others include the giant trevally

(which put up arguably the best fight of all), the golden trevally, and the beautifully colored bluefin trevally. On December 19, 1987, Dr. Harvey

Minatoya landed an all-tackle IGFA world record bluefin trevally of 96 pounds at Christmas Island.

Many fishermen travel to Christmas Island solely to fish for trevally; we recommend parties spend at least one full day, and preferably two, pursuing this

tough customer, using either heavy spin (surf) casting, medium spin casting, or fly fishing tackle. The equipment required will be familiar to saltwater anglers

who have taken bluefish or stripers along the Eastern seaboard, or those who have spent time catching the great game fish of the Sea of Cortez (roosterfish,

snapper, yellowtail, amberjack, etc.) from the Baja Peninsula.

Trevally are found both inside and outside the barrier reefs on the perimeter of the island and in the lagoon area; also, in the blue water at the lagoon entrance.

At the right tide, you can sight trevally right out on the flats, but more frequently you will see them cruising the deeper water beyond the flat's edges.

The punts can also be used to get within casting range of prowling "packs" of trevally found lurking near the edges of the flats within the lagoon, or cruising

out beyond the barrier reefs (only an option on calm days). For hearty souls, there can be good trevally action in the surf right in front of the hotel. The big

waves and numerous coral outcroppings, however, make this a challenging pursuit, and we recommend consulting with a guide first. When hooked, these

strong fighters often go deep and break off on coral heads, so you'll need tackle with backbone.

Trevally feed primarily on mullet, bonefish, flying fish and other flats species, although they have a particular weakness for the small snappers that live around

the coral gardens and shelves. Concentrate on deep tidal channels adjacent to these coral-ridden locations. The small trevally that inhabit the flats along with bonefish will occasionally take the same lures and flies.

Before you "enter the ring" with these brutes, we urge you to take care when handling them.

Do not attempt to tail trevally without protective gloves - they have a set of razor-sharp spines running along their lateral line close to the tail which can

inflict painful gashes. Surf casters need to wear protective wading boots like the Orvis "Christmas Island Wading Boots" (see Footwear for Wading) while

fishing from shore to protect against sharp coral and sea urchins; also, wade carefully near breaking waves to avoid a topple, which could result in injury.

Heavy Spinning/Surf Casting:

Big, long surf casting outfits fit the bill for those targeting medium to big (20 to 100-lb) trevally, both in the surf and in the deep water within the lagoon. Those who feel more comfortable with medium/heavy bait casting (level-wind) outfits

will also find these effective in the pursuit of the big ones. Spinning/Surf Casting Rods: Surf casters at Christmas use stiff rods capable of

throwing 5-9 inch lures to the horizon. Rods are typically 6-10 footers, but some anglers prefer huge double-handed rods that are 10-14 feet long. In any case,

rods should be able to handle lure weights generally in the 1-4 oz. range (although rods made for lure weights of up to 7 oz. can be used). A number of

companies make good surf casting rods including St. Croix, Penn, Shakespeare, and Daiwa.

Spinning/Surf Casting Reels and Line:

Remember, a high-speed retrieve is a must for trevally fishing, but fortunately most big saltwater spinning reels are geared appropriately. Reels of course,

should be saltwater models and should be able to hold 200-250 yards of 20-30

lb. line. The Penn SS reels are recommended as are Daiwa's "Black Gold" models. Limp-type line will perform best for this application. Consider Abu

Garcia's "Ultra Cast" or DuPont's "Magna Thin". Be certain to back-up spools of line - first-time trevally fishermen may be surprised at how often they lose

out to a big one because of coral breakoff, which inevitable means 20 to 40 yards of lost line.

A good combination would be St. Croix 9 ft. (lure weight 1-3 oz.) for 15-30 pound line combined with a Penn 750 SS spinning real. Spool the reel with 20-

25 pound Abu Garcia "Ultra Cast" line.

Level-wind/Casting: For those who prefer fishing with this type of outfit, bring along a stiff action 6-

7 feet bait casting rod with a medium-sized level-wind reel which will hold 150-190 yards of 20 pound line.

Example: Abu Garcia Ambassadour 6500-C (2-speed) spooled with a stiff, abrasion-resistant line such as Berkley "Trimas" or Ande. The benefit of a casting outfit is that it can be cast very accurately, and this can be a big help as

you try to place the lure in front of trevally, which always seem to be swimming in overdrive whether feeding or just cruising. The problem with big surf casting

(spinning) outfits is that you have less control where the plug goes - although when blind

casting in the surf, big spinning rods will give you greater distance and can handle slightly larger lure weights.

Recommended Lures for Christmas trevally include active surface-type models such as the Pili "Pili floater" (both the 4-1/2", 1.5 oz. and "Poki

Floater" 3-1/2", .78 oz.); Cotton Cordell "Pencil Popper" (both 6", 1 oz. and 7", 2oz.); the "Reef Ripper" and "Wopper Popper", the Zara Spook by

Heddon in G-Finish Shad and/or Chrome is a very effective lure for smaller outfits. The weight should match your line/tackle specifications and can range from 1/2 to 7 ounces, depending on tackle limits.

Subsurface lure, including the Rapala 5-1/2" CD14MAG or the 7"

"Silver," are often good producers as are large, flashy spoons like the 3 oz. ACME "Kastmaster" in chrome/blue. Comparable-sized spoons, such as

Crocodile or Hopkins, are also productive. A very fast retrieve is what you want and will generate spectacular surface

strikes. For trolling from punts, these plugs and spoons work well. Also, small to medium offshore plastic trolling llure, like the C & H "Li'L Stubby," can be

effective. Take an ample supple of lures; the inventory at the Captain Cook in often

nonexistent and prices are exorbitant.

Medium Spinning/Bait Casting:

You can also get a piece of the trevally action with medium spinning or bait casting tackle. Less cumbersome than their big brother, medium-sized outfits

provide better portability and are easier to manage, and they are generally up to the challenge of battling trevally up to around 50 pounds (which are

encountered more frequently than the 60+ pound monsters). While 6 to 10 pound test outfits may serve for bones and small trevally, they are simply not up

to the larger fish, which are virtually impossible to wear down unless excessive pressure is put on them. Medium outfits should be suited for 1/4 to 1 oz. lure

weights, and reels spooled with 14-20 lb. line. If you have hired a private guide, we suggest asking him to carry your trevally outfit while you are bonefishing so

you'll be ready if trevally are spotted.

FLY FISHING FOR TREVALLY:

Although trevally would generally rather eat "big food" (such as a 5-inch plug), they will also eat flies. Flies of choice are big streamers and poppers, but keep in mind that trevally -

even big ones - will sometimes fall for the meek little Crazy Charlie. Spin and bait casting outfits utilizing de- hooked surface plugs can be used to

raise big tevally to the fly. You can have your fishing partner or guide use the spinning or bait casting outfit as a teaser while you target with your fly rod and

fish that have been "called in".

Fly Rods should be stiff, fast-action graphite 10-12 weight models, with a fighting butt and even a fore-grip midway between the regular grip and the first

stripping guide, which helps fishermen lean into powerful fish. It's not uncommon for a fly-caught trevally to take 30-45 minutes to land.

Reels should be heavy - duty models that can hold at least 250 (ideally 300)

yards of 30-lb. dacron backing. Big trevally will typically steam off in a certain direction and there is little you can do to slow them down until they decide to

stop.

Lines: 10-12 Weight, Saltwater - Taper Floating Fly Lines are best. Sinking lines are

not recommended. Connect the line to 250-300 yards of 30-lb. dacron.

Leaders should be designed with break-offs on sharp coral in mind. If you're going for an IGFA record, you'll have to comply with their regulations, having a

class tippet of at least 15 inches and a shock tippet of no more than 12 inches. IGFA regulations; aside, we recommend a straight shot of 30-lb. abrasion-

resistant mono, 4-6 feet long, to which you attach 15 inches of 80-100 pound

mono shock tippet (or use wire). Trevally have sizable denticles in their mouths and sharp gill plates which can slice through line. Several companies

(including Orvis and Climax) sell pre-tied leaders that incorporate either mono or wire shock tippets. For the uninitiated, tying your own big-game leaders can

be a daunting task, so do consider these pre-tied leaders.

Flies:

Productive trevally include a selection of: Saltwater Poppers in Size 2/0-3/0 - A selection of Gaines poppers or the equivalent "closed-cell" foam poppers in

blue/pearl, olive/pearl, red/pearl, yellow and red, and white. Streamers 2/0-4/0 - Lefty's Deceivers (blue/white, yellow, yellow/red, red/white), Saltwater

Zonkers, Sar- Mul-Mac and Saltwater Streaker - virtually anything that looks like a good-sized baitfish.

Trolling Flies 4/0-5/0 To liven up the punt ride to the outer lagoon flats, many fly anglers like to roll

large "billfish" patterns, and some good trevally have been taken this way. A few productive patterns are: Tandem Deceiver-type streamers, Winston Moore

Sailfish Fly, and closed-cell billfish poppers.

Technique - If you think big trevally are afraid of humans, forget it! Many a big fish has rushed an unsuspecting angler apparently in an effort to "size him up"

before turning away at the last minute - it's a good thing trevally don't grow much over 125 pounds! Trevally are most apt to strike a very fast - moving fly.

Some people put the rod in their arm pit and strip furiously with two hands, while others draw the fly across the water's surface by making full, backward

sweeps of the rod. Another way to drive trevally crazy is to aim false casts right at the fish, but on each forward cast you slap the fly on the water and then start your back-cast by drawing the fly back across the water surface for about four

feet before picking you line up and repeating. After doing this about three times, the fish will have worked itself into such a ravenous frenzy that he will pounce

on the fly when you make your final "real" cast. Trevally (especially big ones) are enticed by the surface commotion caused by the fly or popper

continuously ripping across the water's surface and will often make repeated attempts at the fly until they are hooked.

Trevally tend to concentrate in the lagoon during winter and spring months, whereas in summer and fall they may be outside the reefs and at the drop offs in

the blue water. A great way to fish trevally in the lagoons is to patrol the edges of flats in the punts, which have a roof that serves as an elevated casting

platform. Trevally are sighted as they patrol the drop offs. You should consider bringing a stripping basket with you, especially if you are

going after trevally, which require longer casts than bonefish. You will find that

it can be difficult to "shoot" line that you have stripped off the reel into the water. The water seems to grab the line and this, combined with the salt that

builds up on your line as the day progresses, can make shooting the line a chore. A stripping basket will go a long way towards alleviating this problem.

A few final notes:

Again, be careful handling trevally, especially the big ones. They have a spiny tail and powerful jaws that can be harmful if the fish are handled improperly.

We recommend taking a Kevlar glove to tail fish, and you will need a sturdy pair of pliers/forceps for hook removal. (Again, we recommend bending the

barbs down on your hooks - even for trevally). It's a good idea to bring waterproof athletic tape to protect your stripping finger from the friction of the

rapidly retrieved fly line. Also, if the fish are boated, don't let them bash around, thus avoiding injury to the game fish and to those on board. We strongly

encourage fishermen to release all trevally landed to ensure a bountiful fishing experience for future visitors.

Lures: Plugs, spoons, and pencil poppers, Kona heads, etc. Generally, the silver or

silver/blue Kona Heads are best for Pacific billfish - any color works for whaoo and trevally. If you take your own for use on the Spirit of Christmas, you might

consider leaving extras with the crew as welcome gratuities. Other accessories for the offshore boat, which are sometimes in short supply, are wire cable

leaders, 400-pound and 8-feet in length, and heavy-duty black swivels, both for attaching the wire leader to the monofilament and for lures.

WHAT TO BRING

Sun Precaution: We recommend long-sleeved shirts and long pants tucked into the top of socks or wading shoes. Liberally apply a waterproof sun block of at least #15 rating to

all exposed skin including lips. To be safe you should consider sun block with a #30 to #50 SPF rating. Re-apple every hour while outside. Remember that,

even if you wear a wide-brimmed hat, the sun reflecting off the water will burn your face and lips, etc.,unless you conscientiously apply sun block.

Clothing and other Recommended Items: Everything is very informal on the island - you can wear whatever is

comfortable to dinner. Daily laundry service is available so keep that in mind when packing. Emphasize cottons, which are more comfortable in this climate.

You should consider taking:

* Slacks/shorts - 2 or 3 lightweight cotton * Long-sleeved shirts/fishing pants for sun protection - cotton or Supplex

nylon fishing shirts and pants in light colors (avoid heat-absorbing colors) * Cotton sweater, sweatshirt or jacket for cool mornings and evenings

* Shoes - 1 pair rubber-soled, non-slip boat shoes; canvas sneakers * Fishing hat - Light-colored, wide-brimmed with front and rear visors and a

black underbill to aid in sighting fish (enhances polarizing qualities of sunglasses). Hat must shade face, neck and ears.

* Lightweight rain jacket and pants - You'll be glad to have this protection for crossing ;the lagoon when you'll often get wet from the spray. Also, if a

squall blows up, it can get chilly very quickly even in his marvelously warm climate.

* Footwear for wading - Since you spend a lot of time on your feet at Christmas Island, it's very important to have comfortable, no-nonsense wading

shoes. The new improved sand-colored Christmas Island Boots from Orvis are the best, most comfortable flats wading shoe yet. Some people choose ankle-height, canvas tennis shoes, one size larger than normal shoe size, and others

use convention stream wading shoes. Take cotton socks that are expandable and long enough to tuck your pants into.

Over the socks, put on neoprene "gravel guards" or "wader saver socks" with a cuff that folds down over the shoe. This combination minimizes the entry of

sand, small shells, and little pieces of coral into the shoe - what does get in is comfortably cushioned by the neoprene and your sock. Remember that

neoprene flats wading boots were specifically designed for this type of fishing and are by far the easiest to use.

Since your feet are wet and soft when wading in saltwater all day, they're especially susceptible to blisters or chafing. Thus, it is strongly recommended

that you take at least two pairs of wading shoes, so you can change daily to help eliminate the possibility of blisters. Wading socks can be laundered every day, so you don't need to take many.

Fishing Accessories Checklist * Lightweight cotton fishing vest or fishing shirt, with adequate pockets for

fly boxes, leader material, extra reel, etc. Standard trout fishing vests are too hot to wear on the flats.

* Belt Packs - can work in place of a vest * Polarized sunglasses - a must - amber is the top choice. Many anglers like

glasses with side shields, which greatly reduce peripheral glare. Take two or more pairs.

* Clippers for cutting monofilament * Waterproof boat bag - waterproof knapsack or the like to use as a "boat bag"

for carrying cameras, film, excess tackle, snacks, etc., on the boat or truck (some people use a "boat bag" in conjunction with a belt pack - they carry all of

their gear from the hotel to the fishing area with the boat bag, and then use the belt pack to carry what they need onto the flats). * Hook sharpener

* WD-40 - or reel grease, apple to reels each evening * Line Clippers

* Pocket knife * Leader material

* Fly line conditioner * Needlenose pliers/Forceps

* Nail knot tool * Zap-a-Gap (super glue)

* Gum rubber - for straightening leaders * Reel covers

* Waterproof adhesive tape - for your stripping finger * Neoprene reel spool "minders" or velcro strips come in handy as a means to

secure two or three rods and reels, which are sometimes broken down while riding in vehicle or boat. * Kleenex/optical cleaning paper for cleaning saltwater off glasses, cameras,

and fishing tackle * Small towel - for sweaty hands and wiping sunscreen/sweat away from eye

area

Optional * Fish scales and measuring tape

* Golf glove * Stripping basket

* Knot book * Fly tying equipment

* Kevlar glove (for tailing trevally) * Zip-loc bags - large and small

Miscellaneous

* Camera gear - Take all of the film and batteries you will need for the trip - none is available on the island. A film shield bag (to avoid airport x-rays),

Kuban hitch (if you plan to wade with camera), waterproof bag, camera body/lens/film, polarizing filter, lens tissue and cleaner, flash attachment; start

with fresh batteries and take an extra set. * Snack Items - Because you lose a lot of salt, many people enjoy snacks at

lunch or with a cocktail in their room - crackers, chips, salted nuts, etc. Suggest you take these in cans. Cheese can be kept in your refrigerator. Some snacks are

available for purchase at the hotel bar.

* Insect repellent - Although insects are seldom a problem, it's a good idea to take a can of spray for your room in case an occasional mosquito gets in at night

or if you find ants. * Snorkel, mask and fins

* Water Bottle * Beach towel - Room towels are small so take a beachtowel if you plan on

swimming or spending time on the beach. * Wash cloth

* Plastic bags for transporting wet clothing and footwear in your suitcase going home

* Flashlight for finding your way around the hotel grounds

Virtually all of the food comes from Hawaii, and we have had few reports of

stomach problems. Drinking water and ice cubes are also made from pure water, so you can eat and drink with confidence. In addition to any medicines that you normally use, we suggest you bring:

* Lomotil or Imodium

* aspirin/pain pills * antibiotic ointment; hydrogen peroxide and cotton balls

* band-aids * tweezers

* aloe sunburn treatment; plenty of waterproof 30+ sun block; lip balm with sun block

* motion sickness medicine (if chartering the outrigger canoe)

DAILY FISHING SCHEDULE If you're at the Hotel/Resort when a large fishing party is in residence (which you can expect January through April), you'll be grouped by the head guide into

parties of four (occasionally groups may number three or five), with one guide and a vehicle per group. Each day, some groups will utilize lagoon punts to

reach their fishing area - others will drive directly to where they'll fish. Your assigned guide and truck will pick you up at your room or in the hotel

parking lot, depending on prearrangement. If the guide is late, go to the hotel and double-check with the head guide or the on-duty manager. In any case,

learn to relax and get used to things operating on Kiribati time. Again, before leaving the hotel, it's a good idea to check the lunch and drink coolers to make

sure you have everything.

The basic fishing day is structured to be 8 hours. Some would like to fish longer, but the sun angle is such that by 3:30-4 o'clock it's very difficult to see

bonefish well. By then, you're either fishing into the sun or the wind. If you've

left the hotel at seven, you'll be back by 4-5 o'clock and dinner is served from 7 o'clock. We have found that most people are tired enough that they're in bed by

9:30 - 10. Fishing time is figured from departure from the hotel until return, including driving time.

For fishing beyond 8 hours, an overtime charge for the guide and punt is applicable. Prorated over a group of four, this charge is modest.

GUIDES

Nothing has been as gratifying to see as the remarkable improvement of the Christmas Island guides with each passing year. There are more good guides

than ever before. The majority can spot fish better than you can, know the flats intimately, understand tide and weather influences, and want to get you fish.

Ask your guide for help - some may be shy at first - and work to meet him halfway.

VEHICLES Trucks and vans must be driven by a guide or member of the hotel staff. The

management does not allow guests to drive the vehicles due to personal liability risk. Driving is on the left side of the road, and it's easy to get lost. Make sure

the guides drive at a speed you find comfortable - don't hesitate to ask them to slow down.

BIRD ISLAND If you wish to visit Bird Island, let the head guide know when

you arrive so he can try to organize time when the most people can go. The fee for the wildlife officer is $125.00 Australian dollars (US $100) plus private punt

transport divided between the group. (This can be an expensive afternoon if only a few people register). These arrangements can also be made through the

tourist office, adjacent to the hotel. WEATHER & WIND

Christmas Island is in the equatorial calm, lying well east of Pacific storm development areas. Because of its proximity to the equator, Christmas Island

does not have seasons as we know them. The temperatures in January are virtually identical to those in July. It is believed the island makes its own

weather. Easterly trade winds blow throughout the year at an average of 10-20 knots and provide a cool breeze across the flat surfaces of the atoll. It's rarely

humid or unpleasantly hot. The mean daytime temperature is 80oF, and the evenings are down to a breezy 72 degrees.

Annual rainfall averages 30 inches and is normally in the form of afternoon or evening showers. It is best to be prepared with a light rain jacket in case you get

caught in a downpour. There seems to be a 5-year drought cycle, and the locals say some years it doesn't rain at all. Cloud cover is relatively sparse throughout

the year compared to other tropical areas you might know and, in general,

conditions are ideal for flats fishing. During summer months, the winds are generally calmer and the sea less rough. Christmas Island certainly has the most

consistent and predictable sunny weather patterns of any bone fishing destination we know of anywhere.

COMMUNICATIONS

The Hotel/Resort has WIFI connections around the reception and bar area. Radio contact is established with each boat and vehicle through a base station at

the hotel. Kiribati (pronounced kear-a-boss), also called Gilbertese, is the native tongue

on the island; however, the majority of the hotel employees have a command of spoken and written English.

CATCH AND RELEASE

Please release all bonefish. If you want a mount of a trophy bonefish, you merely need to record length and girth measurements to get a mold mount from a major taxidermist. There is no need to retain and submit the fish itself.

Fish Conservation Area - "No-kill" zones have been established in the main

lagoon, which are marked by signs. Fishing in the area is permitted only when accompanied by a guide or authorized officer and is subject to the live release of

all fish. A $1,000 fine is payable by anyone found to be killing fish or fishing without authority in the Fish Conservation Area.

A FINAL WORD

You're heading to the Central Pacific where a slow pace of life and a laid back "take-it-easy" attitude is entranced in the culture of the native peoples. Each

year, only about 1500 people will visit Christmas Island, including bird watchers, divers, traders, and anglers. Thus, the island is not well experienced with tourism. None of the hotel staff has been trained outside the boundaries of

the island. Therefore, crisp timing, efficiency as we know it, and effective planning are sometimes a bit out of sync. Don't let this get to you - relax and

adjust to where you are, the way things are done, and you'll get along fine. The wheels that sometimes fall off are more than offset by the willing, friendly

attitude of the Micronesian people you'll encounter. They're really trying hard to serve their guests well and are sincere about your well-being and enjoyment -

and this will show.

Compensation for fishing guides, hotel staff, and others is fixed by government

policy. It does not compare to our standards, but it is very good compared to what other guides are making worldwide. You may be questioned by your guide

about what you earn or what guides make elsewhere, and the best advice we can

give is to be pleasant but vague if asked about these things. None of us wants the American influence to cause dissent.

The Hotel/Resort is not a deluxe facility due to its isolated location. However, the reaction we hear most often from first time visitors is their amazement at

how comfortable and pleasant it is (considering where you are). View it in context and don't be surprised if you find a land crab on your front step, or a

shortage of hot water one day. We think you'll be comfortable and pleasantly surprised at meal quality and service.

The government of Kiribati is making strides in improving services, and we

believe repeat visitors will note constructive change. This happens at a slower pace than we're used to, but it is being accomplished in spite of a morass of

technical and logistical difficulties due to the island's location, available labour pool, etc.

The Hotel/Resort is committed to helping this destination become the best it can be. We've had the best reports from returning guests this year than ever before.

The unspoiled, refreshing atmosphere and the great numbers of fine game fish

should more than make up for any "slippage" that might occur in the daily routine. Relax, enjoy, and meet the people half way or more, and you will be

captivated by the charm of the island and its exciting fishery - have a great trip!

We hope this information helps you prepare for your fishing at Christmas Island

and contributes to a more enjoyable and productive experience. For questions or more information about the fishing or tackle and

techniques, ask for Bill Hartshorne or Garry Barmby. Call toll-free 1800 033 094.