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THURSDAYTHE DAILY NEWS

18 FEBRUARY 2016

YARNSAn index of

know-hows and the exhibitors

new yarns and fibres.

Hall 5 North

FABRICS The season’s key

silhouettes illustrated by new

fabrics and components.

Hall 5, Style Focus

LEATHERThe film with

creative inspirations for leather and

fur for summer 17. Hall 3,

Trends Gallery

DESIGNS79 original designs guide you through

the decorative trends for summer 17.Designs Forum,

Hall 5

ACCESSORIESComponent

highlights for the fashion

jewellery market. Hall 4,

Jewel Focus

MANUFACTURINGIFM Conference

on the new panorama of

global sourcing. 2 pm. Hall 5,

room 501

A TASTE FOR LARGE SIZETHE SEASON SPREADS OUT P. 6

IFM/PREMIÈRE VISION CHAIR

THE IMPACT OF EXCHANGE RATESON SUPPLIES P. 7

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Without overshadowing the leading players – the fabrics of course – a little robot guest stars in the Première Vision Fabrics film. This “magic arm” is the best friend of architect Paul Coudamy, who rescued it from daily labour on industrial assembly lines. In its new life, it’s programmed to aid with prototyping, cutting-out,

laser engraving and more. For the spring-summer 17 season at Fabrics, it’s role was to give life to fabrics, and evoke the complicity between poetry and technology, the rational and the irrational, science and romance. Fabrics, THE FORUM, HALL 6

Ellen Huang, Paltex Company “Openwork is meeting with great success in the world of sports through their breathable technical properties, but also thanks to their graphic visuals. Fantasy is worked into these fabrics like a secret detail: we print by embossing with small regular geometrical patterns and treat them with a reflective finishing, so that they reveal themselves only at night. Chic and powerful, these fabrics are perfect for an evening jog.”Fabrics, 6F14

Christy Raedeke, Cocona Natural Technologies“Our 37.5® yarn is the result of an association of polyester, particles of volcanic sand and coconut. This combination naturally aerates fabrics, providing new breathable properties. Mixed with natural

fibres, this versatile yarn coming from sports promises a fashion approach incorporating elegant comfort.”Yarns, 5P82

Sunay Güler, Akbaslar Tekstíl “Both breathable and waterproof thanks to a double finishing, our hybrid technical fabrics provide greater comfort for ready-to-wear. This connection between the world of sports and fashion portends a new idea of active elegance: our breathable fabrics printed with small geometrical patterns, stripes, dots or checks in vivid, even fluorescent colours, testify to this happy marriage between comfort and fantasy.”Fabrics, 5B20-5C23

BREATHABLE, TECHNICAL AND JUST A TOUCH MAD; HOW DO YOU MARRY COMORT AND FANTASY, PERFORMANCE AND STYLE?

A ROBOT PLAYS A ROLE FOR SPRING-SUMMER 17

BEAUTY IN A BOTTLEThanks to Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behagel, the olfactory and dynamic duo heading up the creative studio at niche perfume maker Flair, the Olfactory Garden presents four exclusive fragrances. Each illustrates one of the four Beauties, muses for Spring-Summer 17: Brooding beauty, Convulsive beauty, Subsidiary beauty and Precarious beauty. Leather, ENTRY TO HALL 3

Find an alphabetic repertory of know-hows and products from all the exhibitors at the Accessories show. Accessories. ENTRY TO HALL 4

THE INDEX

10: 30AM

COLOUR TREND TASTING SEMINAR, exclusively dedicated to the colours of the Spring-Summer 17 season. HALL 5, ROOM 501

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SIGHTING: PROMISING TALENTScomON Creativity Sharing. A selection of student projects based on the French film la Boum, and the world of teenagers. Fabrics, 5F48

ENSAD x Première Vision exhibit. Participants in the ENSAD Leather Accessory Prize exhibit their discoveries, for a union of traditional know-hows and new innovations. Leather, HALL 3, MAIN ENTRY

IFM exhibition. Students from the IFM Design Postgraduate Program present a selection of their bag, clothing and shoe collections created thanks to a partnership between tanners, manufacturers and prestige luxury houses. Leather, HALL 3, MAIN ENTRY

WHEN BEAUTIFUL TWINE RETURNS TO FASHIONDelicate as glycine, resistant as jute, precious as embroidery: twine becomes an ingredient of refinement in summer fabrics and accessories for. Belinac (Fabrics, 5G2) uses it as a floating thread on fabric doubled in silk and polyester enriched with quilted floral design. At Simona B. (Accessories, 4G20), twine comes on braided motifs combining natural fibres and Lurex yarns in a harmonious marriage. For Masao Koishihara, twine is art form on its own: this heir to four generations of weavers and president of Yushisha (Maison d’Exceptions, HALL 6) reworks the ancestral Japanese technique of glycine yarn. Spun exclusively by hand by twisting, the fibre extracted from these plants that he grows himself grows in Kyoto is more resistant than any natural fibre and as precious as a gold thread.

MY SUMMER IN LINENEuropean linen gets it all right, explains CELC (Fabrics, 5B14-5C17): zero irrigation, zero defoliant, zero waste and zero GMO! A nice choice for the bag of the season proclaiming “My summer in linen”. This product from Lithuania’s Klasikine (Fabrics, 6C34-6D33), renowned for its washed linen, needs no ironing and doesn’t shrink in the wash.

THE WINNER OF THE PREMIÈRE VISION GRAND PRIZE AT HYÈRES LAST APRIL SHARES HER SEASON’S FAVOURITES.

ANNELIE SCHUBERTGUIDED VISIT This embroidery by

Schwarzschild Ochs London (Fabrics,

5F28-5G27) draws a very subtle giant geometry,

in tone on tone, or rather white on white.

You can barely see tiny sequins on the tulle. A

fascinating contrast between the graphic

rigidity and fragility of tulle!

Fabrics, EVENING FOCUS HALL 5

I love this two in one textile by Fukui Tateami (Fabrics, 6E18). This 3D mesh knit, which is honeycombed, very light and supple, has a lace-like effect. This hybrid between tulle and sport is both feminine and technical. Fabrics, TECH FOCUS HALL 6

: 30AM

The Leather Fashion Breakfasts present the trends along with the key colours, products and materials for summer 17 for the leather and fur markets. With a focus on the latest new products from the show’s exhibitors. Leather, HALL 3, GOLD PREMIUM LOUNGE

10: 30 AM

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SUCH PALE GLIMMERPearly shades with iridescent effects, from off-white to antique gold, crystalline reflections illuminate fabrics, lend a mirror shine to leathers and enrich accessories with precious glints. The range of pale metallic effects at Pastels (Fabrics, 5G10) alight on jacket-weight jacquards, in tiny accents of faded and powdered shine. Tacchini (Accessories, 4G26) digitally prints on mother-of-pearl for buttons with hologram effects, and moving iridescence. A silvery paleness also dresses up skins in sueded goatskin at the Conceria Stefania (Leather, 3B112), which are laminated and patinated, with a gently retro Futurism.

BLOSSOM PREMIÈRE VISION, A COMPLEMENTARY EVENT TO PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS, WILL LAUNCH THE AUTUMN WINTER 17-18 SEASON NEXT 6 AND 7 JULY AT THE PALAIS BRONGNIART IN PARIS. THIS BIANNUAL HIGH-END SHOWROOM WILL MEET THE NEEDS OF CREATIVE FASHION PRE-COLLECTIONS.

What are the producer’s’ sustainable development initiatives? How are the three major Smart Facts developing: traceability of sourcing, transparency of the production processes, and the responsible, environmental and ethical commitments of companies? At those canvassed*, representing 20% of the 1,725 Première Vision Paris exhibitors, 90% say they source in Europe, with the top suplier being Italy. Two-thirds of the companies surveyed have production units in Europe, as opposed to 21% in Asia and 16% in

Turkey. More than half have policies to save energy and/or water and 63.2% claim to sustainably manage their chemicals (a figure that rises to 70.9% for waste). But progress remains in terms of C02 emissions, as only 33% of those surveyed say they are concerned about them. Yet at the same time they are nearly unanimous in calling for the respect of labour rights and improvement beyond the national laws in force. The road ahead remains long, but the roadmap is in place! *Study conducted from July 2015 to January 2016 of a representative sampling of participants at the various shows and the countries most represented at the exhibitors.

SMART CREATION: A 1ST STUDY * PLACES SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT AT THE HEART OF CREATION

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Why this design from Marzala and Laura Torroba (Designs 5U59)? The fused watercolours, this floral abstract... something about it evokes Monet to me... It seems already painted directly on the fabric. It’s very fresh and spontaneous. Designs Forum, HALL 5

This sample from Henri Bertrand (Fabrics, 5H5) is well balanced between

a chic volume with its organza roundness, and a dry, somewhat rustic handle.

Its understated shine remains natural. Fabrics, THE FORUM, HALL 6

ANNELIE SCHUBERT

10The ten finalists for the Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at the 31st Hyères International Fashion Festival were welcomed by a selection of exhibitors, who will support them in the making of their collections to be presented from 21 to 25 April, 2016 at the Villa Noailles.

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SPRING SUMMER 17

raffias, cording yarns and strings, lending visual texture. And the asperity of linen transferred into silkies and knits.

05 SIGNED BY A HANDThere need to be hand-drawn lines. Buyers want to feel a human intervention in the samples. Like delicately fused, subtly graduated colours, or yarns prettily but irregularly dyed, and skilfully thrown. An indigo effect in woollens inspires as much as reinterpreted ikats and Shibori. A signature also has to be found in patterns, gouache grounds, florals with irregular outlines, and geometrics drawn with a brush.

03 INTERMITTENT TRANSPARENCYBuyers like semi-transparent voiles in cotton and silk, and madras or checked yarn dyeds. Airy silkies, gauzes and cut-yarns also met with success. Burnt outs attracted buyers, as did openwork, nets and laser cut-outs. Even the patterns breathe, with their engineered bouquets, their spaced-out motifs, their airy grounds.

04 PRIMITIVE TONALITYA veritable ode to irregularity. A desire for rusticity marked by good taste, with a vegetal-fibre feel and papery handles. The one must: suppleness. Also selected were jacquards, wovens and patterns with a chic tribal look. Particularly spotted: thick fancy yarns,

01 LIVELY STRIPESStripes are popular all around. They are always horizontal, most often irregular, blended with printed flowers and deck-chair or stick stripes. Grounds interferre liberally, disturbing readings. Jacquards, guipure, lace, nothing is free of stripes. They are preferred transparent, waffled in knits, wrinkled in silkies, and textured in wools.

02 NEUTRALISED SHINEThere’s nothing showy in the selections. Metallo-plastic yarns are liked matt, and iridescent coatings in woollens. Subtlety is key in knits, with powdery coppery and old gold laminates and coatings. In silkies, shine is preferred satiny, with a muted gleam.

WHAT ARE WOMENSWEAR BUYERS SEEKING? A FEW DIRECTIONS EMERGED YESTERDAY IN THE AISLES, THANKS TO THE PREMIÈRE VISION FABRICS SURVEY.

NOT SO SIMPLE SIMPLICITYBuyers could read the richness in the know-hows and sophistication of the impressively simple samples. With tactile irregularities in almost-plains, near tone-on-tone colourways for over-embroidered lace, prints agitated by jacquard grounds, and secret-loving transparency. Choices that herald femininity without pretentiousness.

199 VIEWPOINTS ON WOMENSWEAR FOR SPRING-SUMMER 17WERE GATHERED AT THE WEAVERS

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Jane Han Zhang, Fairbairn & Wolf Studio Designs, 5X60

OUR CURRYING AND FINISHING PHASES, ALL DONE BY HAND, allow us to create and accentuate the grains of our skins. A colourless lacquer amplifies even this graining.”

WE HAVE MODIFIED OUR MACHINES so they weave wider silk and leather bands. Our family company specializes in the creation of kimono belts since 1889. Today, we are evolving this 1,500-year old tradition. For example we are offering pieces that go up to 90 cm wide for leather and 1.50 m for silk, against 40 cm maximum historically. With these enlarged dimensions, and without ever compromising our ancestral know-how and our delicacy of execution, we open ourselves for export and are also diversifying into fashion accessories and clothing... In short, we are looking further afield!”

6XL GRAPHICS, EXXAGERATED VOLUME, A TASTE FOR WHAT’S BIG: SPRING SUMMER 17 SPREADS OUT. TOO BIG OR NOT TO BE - THAT’S THE TEMPTATION.

VIEWPOINTS OUR SUMMER COLLECTION IS BORNE BY A SCALE STORY that has influenced a large part of our motifs, with oversized drawings, extra large stripes, checks with thick lines... A desire for over-size is especially developed for womenswear, menswear being a little more timid (for the moment anyway).”

Rita Fortes, Riopele Fabrics, 6J10

Hitoshi Sakamoto, Sakamoto Corp Leather, 3H80

OUR GAUGES RANGE OVERALL FROM 18 TO 3, BUT THAT’S NOT ENOUGH! To go even bigger, we have recourse either to manual labour with knitting needles, mechanical machines of the 1960s that can go to up to gauge 1.5, for XXL knit effects and an ultra openworked look.”

Omar Morotti, OmmyKnitwear Solutions, 6KW105

Daisuke Kano, Kano-ko,Maison d’Exceptions, HALL 6 WE ARE GOING IN FOR

GIANT SIZES. We aim for more expansive volumes with heavier bases, volumes that are puffier with silk gazars going up to 300/m2. Our digital prints of butterflies or flowers are so large they become almost abstract.”

Ines Massi, Ratti Fabrics, 5N10-5P9

MAXI FORMATS AND PATTERNS ON A LARGE SCALE ARE OUR SIGNATURE. This love for the oversized comes perhaps from my interest in calligraphers who work on enormous sheets while standing up. Beyond our developments on silk and wool for fashion, our XL DNA can lead us to dress up the entire façade of a building in England in a print.”

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“FOR THE BETTER PART OF A YEAR, WE HAVE BEEN TENDING TO REDUCE OUR SUPPLY SHARE IN ASIA, WHERE WE ARE DISADVANTAGED BY PAYMENT IN U.S. DOLLARS, AND REDIRECTING IT TO EASTERN EUROPE. THIS ALSO FACILITATES OUR RESTOCKING POLICY.”Dan Benayoun, Associate Head of Production, Zapa

“CURRENCY FLUCTUATIONS MIGHT HELP OUR PRODUCTION IN THE LONG TERM. PROFESSIONALS CAN REFOCUS ON THE ENTIRE MEDITERRANEAN BASIN. ONE OF THE BIGGEST BENEFICIARIES WILL UNDOUBTEDLY BE TURKEY, BUT NORTH AFRICA AND EASTERN EUROPE WILL ALSO BENEFIT.”Karim Tazi, CEO, Sefita, Fabrics, 6K18-6L17

Gildas Minvielle, Director of the IFM Economic Observatory, at Première Vision Paris.

A CHAIR IFM / PREMIERE VISIONThe two leading players from the fashion world have joined forces. Première Vision S.A. and the French Institute of Fashion (IFM) launched a Chair dedicated to the economy of creative materials fashion on 1 January, created to last for a minimum of three years. Uniting their expertise and respective know-how, they are jointly developing an international economic indicator focusing on business in the creative fashion textile industry, analysing the sector’s economic trends in addition to specialized studies.The first fruit of this new collaboration is a conference on sourcing at Première Vision Paris, held Tuesday 16 and Thursday 18 February at 2 pm. HALL 5, ROOM 501

“A RISE IN PRICES IN 2016 SEEMS INEVITABLE TO OFFSET THE LOSS OF MARGINS FOLLOWING FLUCTUATIONS IN THE COSTS OF RAW MATERIALS.” This is the conclusion of the Director of the IFM Economic Observatory, Gildas Minvielle, concerning the new panorama of global sourcing. Statistical observations proposed yesterday, Tuesday 16 February, at the

conference held at Premiere Vision Paris were supplemented by input from some hundred brands and producers gathered at the end of 2015 by the IFM *.This fluctuation is linked to variations in currencies and their exchange rates and not, strictly speaking, to an increase raw materials. “A rise in supply prices is due to the appreciation of the US dollar, whose value rose by 15% in 2015 alone.” Another underlying factor is an increase in salaries, which have for example “more than tripled over the past 10 years in China following changes it made to its economic model, betting on internal growth and now more oriented towards domestic consumption than trade,” added

Gildas Minvielle. In terms of textile supplies to European and American markets, China has dipped only slightly, while other Asian countries are ever more central and the Mediterranean basin is showing a slight downturn. Given this economic context, a number of fashion professionals noted the erosion of their margins. More than two-thirds of them pass on either in part or in whole these additional upstream costs to their final prices. To cope with this issue, Gildas Minvielle has outlined several solutions. It is possible to concentrate purchases of raw materials or rationalize them. Another possibility would be to allot a greater budget for short term and proximity sourcing in order to

remain as close as possible to fashion and the volatility of trends. Moreover, half of those surveyed* are thinking about increasing their restocking.But the Director of the IFM Economic Observatory was nonetheless reassuring: “Even if a rise in prices in 2016 seems inevitable to compensate for the loss of margins following fluctuations in the costs of raw materials, this price increase will not be proportional but ‘stretched,’ in order to avoid changing average general prices.”

*IFM/PREMIÈRE VISION CHAIR STUDY: “THE NEW PANORAMA OF GLOBAL SOURCING: HOW THE EURO IS RESHUFFLING THE DECK”

CONFERENCE THURSDAY 18 FEBRUARY AT 2 PM.

HALL 5, ROOM 501FREE ENTRY.

SPRING SUMMER 17

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Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 - Tel.: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 00 - Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09e-mail: info@premierevision.com - Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: S. Kossmann, Taneka, B. Nottoli, RR.

FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM

LEATHER HAS AN EFFECT ON EVERYONE.It’s a living material, lending itself to interpretation. I joined the family tannery of my husband, Xavier Richard, in 2006. With my background in international sales and languages, my American culture through my father and my experience living in Japan, I first began working in sales, representations,

shows…But in a small company – there are 40 of us – you quickly start being involved in everything. A leathergoods training program helped me better understand the product, the production, then the collections and the colours. I love this full aniline lambskin, an extraordinary

material, with its special luxurious touch. Our industry has changed a lot. We used to produce a lot of black, and brown, and a little bit of colour. Even though we remain specialised in classic articles, today our clients, the luxury brands, send us new colours almost every two months. You have to stay really motivated and enormously curious to continually evolve and reinvent leather. Nothing is ever certain. I love admiring the finished products in the stores. Those marvellous moments compensate for all the stressful times, even if they are quite rare, when the merchandise isn’t right. There’s a big amount of risk in every order, because the margin for interpretation in the order specifications can be quite large. And we never elaborate standard products.

MY JOBMULTI-TALENTED STYLE DIRECTORWendy Richard, style director at Mégisserie Richard, (Leather, 3F41-3G42) was featured in the latest Première Vision Paris promotional campaign.

MY JOBCREATIVE DIRECTOR

Takao Ozaki, creative director of A-GIRLS (Fabrics, 5R4-5S7), was featured in the latest

Première Vision Paris promotional campaign.

ARCHIVES AND MUSEUMS INSPIRE ME.As do artisans. No one conveys the excellence of Japanese fabrics better than they do. I think of them when creating my collections. They’re

the ones who, at their knitting machines, can give life to my ideas. My professional strength is that I am able to intervene in all the industrial creative processes: from yarn-spinning to the knitting, dyeing and finishing of a fabric. Being part of these processes makes me capable, I think, of creating a collection that communicates to the world the hopes and dreams of this Japanese knitting community. Long ago, we produced a super light jersey, very innovative for its time, a cashmere blend that was quite firmly set, playing on twists and stratifications. This experience pushed the envelope and the role of the jersey in the textile sector. I’m still very proud of that achievement.

THURSDAY