- 1 -

STUDY

PRODUCT IDENTIVICATION &

TRACIBILITY IN APPAREL

Mansoor Faiz Cheema

- 2 -

INTRODUCTION

1.1 Introduction

In the latest scenario, the industrial world is moving towards automation. The human

involvement in any process is decreasing day by day. This is due to the fact that machines

and automated systems can complete the same process in much less time with a higher

degree of accuracy and precision. Time is the most important factor in any production

system. All the systems being introduced are designed to reduce the time for

manufacturing a product. The Industrial Engineering Departments are solely working to

reduce the throughput time or the lead time. The terms like SAM are implemented just to

optimize the processes in terms of time.

Similar is the case with the Apparel Industry all over the world. Departments like PPC

(Product Planning and Control) and IE (Industrial Engineering) are being set up in

Apparel Industries to increase the efficiency and productivity. The local apparel industry

is also following the trend and innovative steps are being taken to keep up with the pace

of the fast growing industrial world. The automated machines and systems are finding

their way in the local Apparel Industry. Automatic spreading machines, marker makers,

cutting machines, sewing machines and finishing machines are being used to increase the

productivity and quality, and at the same time, to reduce the throughput time.

Nowadays, there is a continuous change in customer requirements and the product life

cycles are very short. For this reason modern garment production companies tend to

create new models faster to survive. On the other hand managers of garment plants that

create their own models need to reach their production information any time. So a user-

friendly application to form a common database that provides an efficient production

phase in apparel industry is the need of the hour for every apparel manufacturer.

The term quality is of a great importance in the Textile and specially the Apparel

Industry, and "Total Customer Satisfaction" is the agent that has made the term "quality"

- 3 -

so much important. Most of the industry in the world is moving towards the Six Sigma

and Zero Defects concept but the Pakistani Industry still lags in this field. After the

implementation of WTO, fulfilling the requirements of the customers is not everything,

but in fact to exceed the requirements is the real thing. For this very purpose, the local

apparel industry has to come up with something innovative in terms of technology,

because innovation has been the most important tool for increasing the level of

production as well as quality in any industry. All the strong industrialists around the

world put a great emphasis on innovative techniques and strategies.

To satisfy the customers of the Pakistan-made apparels, it is important to make sure that

each and every operation involved in the manufacturing of any garment is up to the

quality standards defined by the customers. This is the only way the local apparel

manufacturers can make their current customers stick to them and attract new and healthy

customers to the garments with a tag having "Made in Pakistan" written on it.

1.2 Identification

The function of Identification is to map a known quantity to an unknown entity so as to

make it known. The known quantity is called the identifier (or ID) and the unknown

entity is what needs identification. A basic requirement for identification is that the ID be

unique. IDs may be scoped, that is, they are unique only within a particular scope. IDs

may also be built out of a collection of quantities such that they are unique on the

collective.

Identification is the capability to find, retrieve, report, change, or delete specific data

without ambiguity. This applies especially with information stored in databases. In

database normalization it is the central, defining function to the discipline.

The Identification System in apparels is used to identify different quantities at different

stages so as to make them traceable at any later stage and keep a track of the work done

and the work to be done. It is also a part of the shift towards innovation and automation.

The logic reduces the human involvement and provides every entity of the product as

- 4 -

well as the process, with a separate identification so as to minimize any chances of

ambiguity. The identification and traceability logic can help the local apparel industry as

a useful tool for increasing the quality and hence customer satisfaction level. It will help

in reducing the faults and the claims made by the customers due to these faults. It will

also help to keep a track of the worker's skill and performance. This logic is useful not

only in the Manufacturing but is used in the apparel shops and outlets as well.

This logic helps the organization to provide the customer with more safety and security

regarding the quality of the product. The logic includes the identification of each and

every step involved in the value addition process in an apparel organization. It also helps

to track any unexpected defect, its origin and the person responsible for it.

To plan and implement the identification and tracking system, the organization must have

a strong IT Department for creating databases and linking them to each other when

required. The information has to be entered into these databases on daily basis. This can

be done in two ways:

Real Time Processing

Batch Processing

In real time processing updating of data is done at the time the event happens. This idea is

most effective but is quite difficult and costly.

‘Batch Processing’ on the other hand is a method of processing data ‘in a batch’ at a

convenient time after the event.

An example known to all clothing manufacturers is the common form of processing of

shop floor production information. Here bundles of work are identified using tickets.

Self-adhesive operation stubs represent each operation the bundle moves through. The

operator responsible for a particular operation removes the appropriate stub once he has

- 5 -

completed the bundle and this is stuck on to his daily work sheet. Also recorded on this

sheet is any ‘off standard’ time he may experience during the day.

At the end of the day the daily work sheet will have recorded on it all work carried out by

an operator during that day, together with details of any down time. The work sheets for

all the operators are collected up and given to the IT Department for subsequent

processing. This is normally carried out the following morning.

With most batch production control systems the information fed in from the work sheets

will update information regarding the labour cost, work in progress movements and gross

wages. Information about these is, therefore, by necessity, only accurate up to the close of

business the day before – i.e., yesterday.

The use of ‘real time’ in production control is accurate up to the last bundle processed by

any operator. As with batch production control, tickets or some other means of work

identification accompanies each bundle of work through the production process. Instead

of stubs being removed from the ticket and stuck on to a work sheet, information is read

into the computer immediately the bundle is completed at each workstation. A terminal

is, therefore, required at each workstation. These terminals may be some type of

appropriate input device, which are normally small numeric keypads, often resembling

pocket calculators with or without bar code readers attached as appropriate.

Hence the concept of real time requires more employees, more technology and more

working space which adds to the cost of the production and is not used in the local

apparel industry.

1.3 The Local Apparel Industry

The local apparel industry usually consists of manufacturers that buy fabric, cut it, sew it

and ship it to the customer. There are some composite units that manufacture yarn and

fabric and then manufacture the garments but they constitute a very small part, about ten

percent of the local apparel industry.

- 6 -

CMT

CMT stands for Cut Make Trim and it is the term used for the manufacturers who do not

have spinning and weaving units. The customer provides them fabric or specifications of

the fabric to be used for the garments. The manufacturer has to arrange the fabric and get

it dyed in case the customer is not providing him the fabric. The manufacturer also

arranges the trims from the local market as specified by the customer.

They perform the following processes:

Get the order

Buy fabric from local market

Get the Fabric dyed

Buy Trims

Fabric Inspection

Fabric Spreading

Cutting

Bundling

Stitching

Inspection

Packing

Shipping

- 7 -

Most of the local CMT Units have the following steps in manufacturing of the

garments:

Fabric

Inspection

Spreading

&

Cutting

Bundling

Stitching

Finishing

Inspection

Packing

- 8 -

- 9 -

IDENTIFICATION AND TRACEABILITY IN

APPAREL INDUSTRY

2.1) Areas of Significance

The identification system is useful in almost all the departments of the apparel industry

but its main uses cover the following areas:

IT Department

Human Resource Management

Merchandising

Industrial Engineering

Production

Inspection

Shipment

2.2) Identification in IT Department

A good and well established IT department is the base for a strong identification and

tracking system. IT department designs the databases and enters the relevant information

into it which is the first requirement of this system. IT department also help generate

barcodes or RFID Tags to be used in the organization for the purpose of auto-

identification.

2.3) Identification in Human Resource Department

In any established organization, human resource department is responsible for hiring,

training, grooming, rotating and managing the employees. Employees are the main part

of every organization. The identification system helps the management and coordination

of the employees of the organization. It not only helps in identifying and tracking the

- 10 -

employees of any department at any time but also helps to calculate the pays and

incentives to be paid to a worker at any time.

2.4) Identification in Merchandising Department

The merchandiser needs to be very up to date with the codes and symbols used in apparel

business. He must know the meaning of the terms used by any customer. The purchase

order number, the style number and shipping id are some examples of the terms that a

merchandiser needs to be familiar with.

2.5) Identification in Industrial Engineering Department

The industrial engineering department plays with the operations under way in the

organization. Industrial engineering department is directly linked to the production

department and is responsible for improving the workflow and reduce the throughput

time. Operation identification and design is also the responsibility of the IE Department.

All the identification codes used in an apparel organization are usually generated by IE

Department.

2.6) Identification in Production Department

The production department is responsible for the identification of the operations and their

implementation as planned by the IE department. The identification and tracking of

garments is done by a code stitched into the garment. This code is generated to track any

problem occurring at any stage of production and eliminate its root cause. This code is

embedded in the garment during stitching and is the responsibility of the production

manager and inspectors.

- 11 -

2.7) Identification in Inspection Department

The inspectors are the ones who check the garments for faults and defects and then

declare them as A-class or defected. Hence they are the ones help responsible for any

complaint from the customer.

2.8) Identification in Shipping

The cartons sent to the customer through air or sea contain lots of barcodes and

identification codes which include the information about the buyer, the manufacturer and

the shipper.

- 12 -

Tools used for Identification and Traceability

3.1) Types of Identification Tools

Before getting into the details of the identification and tracking in apparels, it is important

to know about the technology used for the identification of the apparel products in an

apparel manufacturing unit and apparel shops and stores.

The identification tools are used for Auto-Identification. Automatic Identification and

Data Capture (AIDC) refers to the methods of automatically identifying objects,

collecting data about them, and entering that data directly into computer systems (i.e.

without human involvement). Technologies typically considered as part of AIDC include:

3.1.1) Barcodes

3.1.2) Radio Frequency Identification RFID

RFID Tag RFID Scanner Entrance

3.1.3) Biometrics

- 13 -

3.1.4) Magnetic stripes

3.1.5) Optical Character Recognition (OCR)

3.1.6) Smart cards

- 14 -

3.1.7) Voice recognition

AIDC is also commonly referred to as “Automatic Identification,” “Auto-ID,” and

"Automatic Data Capture."

The most commonly used of all the above mentioned technologies is the barcode.

Barcode is easy to produce and costs less. RFID is also being used and is considered

more effective and versatile than barcode due to the fact that it involves less human

involvement but most of the organizations do not consider it cost effective.

In apparel industry, organizations use barcodes for identification. Some well establshed

manufacturers and retailers also use RFID in their products for easy and more effective

- 15 -

and reliable identification. RFID are used mostly in shops and marts to save the time and

to avoid any theft.

3.2) Barcode Identification

A barcode is a machine-readable representation of information (usually dark ink on a

light background to create high and low reflectance which is converted to 1s and 0s).

Originally, barcodes stored data in the widths and spacings of printed parallel lines, but

today they also come in patterns of dots, concentric circles, and text codes hidden within

images. Barcodes can be read by optical scanners called barcode readers or scanned from

an image by special software. Barcodes are widely used to implement Auto ID Data

Capture (AIDC) systems that improve the speed and accuracy of computer data entry. An

advantage over other methods of AIDC is that it is less expensive to implement.

Since their invention in the 20th century, barcodes — especially the UPC code — have

slowly become an essential part of modern civilization. Their use is widespread, and the

technology behind barcodes is constantly improving. Some modern applications of

barcodes include:

Practically every item purchased from a grocery store, department store, and mass

merchandiser has a barcode on it. This greatly helps in keeping track of the large

number of items in a store and also reduces instances of shoplifting (since

shoplifters could no longer easily switch price tags from a lower-cost item to a

higher-priced one). Since the adoption of barcodes, both consumers and retailers

have benefited from the savings generated.

Document Management tools often allow for barcoded sheets to facilitate the

separation and indexing of documents that have been imaged in batch scanning

applications.

The tracking of item movement, including rental cars, airline luggage, nuclear

waste, mail and parcels.

- 16 -

Recently, researchers have placed tiny barcodes on individual bees to track the

insects' mating habits.

In the late 1990s in Tokyo, there was a fad for temporary barcode shaped tattoos

among high school girls.

Many tickets now have barcodes that need validating before allowing the holder

to enter sports arenas, cinemas, theatres, fairgrounds, transportation etc.

Some Examples of Barcodes

Information stored in a barcode

- 17 -

3.2.1) Scanners/ Barcode Readers

The earliest, and still the cheapest, barcode scanners are built from a fixed light and a

single photosensor that is manually "scrubbed" across the barcode.

A later design, the "laser scanner," uses a polygonal mirror or galvanometer-mounted

mirror to scan a laser across the barcode — initially only in a straight line, but eventually

in complicated patterns so the reader could read barcodes at any angle.

In the 1990s some barcode reader manufacturers began working with digital cameras to

capture barcodes, both linear and 2D. That technology has matured and now often

surpasses laser scanners in performance and reliability.

A barcode reader

More recently, off-the-shelf digital cameras now have enough resolution to capture both

1D and 2D barcodes. Increasingly companies are looking to incorporate barcode scanning

software into cameraphones. However, the camera phone optics are not well suited for

- 18 -

standard codes that were designed for industrial dedicated scanners. As a result, new

codes are being designed for mobile use such as color code and mCode.

3.2.2) Benefits of using barcodes

In point-of-sale management, the use of barcodes can provide very detailed up-to-date

information on key aspects of the business, enabling decisions to be made much more

quickly and with more confidence. For example:

Fast-selling items can be identified quickly and automatically reordered to meet

consumer demand,

Slow-selling items can be identified, preventing a build-up of unwanted stock,

The effects of repositioning a given product within a store can be monitored,

allowing fast-moving more profitable items to occupy the best space,

Historical data can be used to predict seasonal fluctuations very accurately.

Items may be repriced on the shelf to reflect both sale prices and price increases.

Besides sales and inventory tracking, barcodes are very useful in

shipping/receiving/tracking.

When a manufacturer packs a box with any given item, a Unique Indentifying

Number (UID) can be assigned to the box.

A relational database can be created to relate the UID to relevant information

about the box; such as order number, items packed, quantity packed, final

destination, etc…

The information can be transmitted through a communication system such as

Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) so the retailer has the information about a

shipment before it arrives.

Tracking results when shipments are sent to a Distribution Center (DC) before

being forwarded to the final destination.

- 19 -

When the shipment gets to the final destination, the UID gets scanned, and the

store knows where the order came from, what's inside the box, and how much to

pay the manufacturer.

The reason bar codes are business friendly is that bar code scanners are relatively low

cost and extremely accurate – only about 1/100,000 entries will be wrong.

3.3) Radio-frequency identification

Radio-frequency identification (RFID) is an automatic identification method, relying on

storing and remotely retrieving data using devices called RFID tags or transponders.

An RFID tag is an object that can be applied to or incorporated into a product, animal, or

person for the purpose of identification using radiowaves. Some tags can be read from

several meters away and beyond the line of sight of the reader.

Most RFID tags contain at least two parts. One is an integrated circuit for storing and

processing information, modulating and demodulating a (RF) signal and can also be used

for other specialized functions. The second is an antenna for receiving and transmitting

the signal. A technology called chipless RFID allows for discrete identification of tags

without an integrated circuit, thereby allowing tags to be printed directly onto assets at

lower cost than traditional tags.

Today, a significant thrust in RFID use is in enterprise supply chain management,

improving the efficiency of inventory tracking and management. However, a threat is

looming that the current growth and adoption in enterprise supply chain market will not

be sustainable. A fair cost-sharing mechanism, rational motives and justified returns from

RFID technology investments are the key ingredients to achieve long-term and

sustainable RFID technology adoption.

- 20 -

An RFID tag used for electronic toll collection

3.3.1) RFID Tags

RFID tags come in three general varieties: passive, active, or semi-passive (also known as

battery-assisted). Passive tags require no internal power source, thus being pure passive

devices (they are only active when a reader is nearby to power them), whereas semi-

passive and active tags require a power source, usually a small battery.

RFID tags used in libraries: square book tag, round CD/DVD tag and rectangular VHS tag.

- 21 -

To communicate, tags respond to queries generating signals that must not create

interference with the reader's, as arriving signals can be very weak and must be told apart.

Besides backscattering, load modulation techniques can be used to manipulate the

reader's field. Typically, backscatter is used in the far field, whereas load modulation

applies in the nearfield, within a few wavelengths from the reader.

RFID Reader/ Scanner

- 22 -

3.3.2) Use of RFID in sewn products industry

RFID labels are smart labels that can provide information for a number of applications in

the apparel supply chain. Their unique information can be captured automatically once

the labels are applied at product inception, and the information is highly accurate and

secure.

Some RFID can be modified at stages of the supply chain using the interaction between

the microchip and reader software. RFID is traceable or can be tracked to provide a

production and inventory control system, used for “smart shelves” real time inventory,

retail security system, and even as an authentication to identify counterfeiting of brands.

The apparel industry is in a unique situation where item level RFID tagging can provide

significant benefits relatively quickly without major disruptions to current operations.

Apparel items are typically RFID friendly allowing a broad range of applications from

automated receiving, rapid inventory, controlling on shelf out-of-stock situations and

shoplifting. This paper addresses the question of whether retailers can inventory store

apparel merchandise and achieve high accuracy of inventory data.

- 23 -

3.3.3) Replacing barcodes

RFID tags are often envisioned as a replacement for barcodes, having a number of

important advantages over the older barcode technology. They may not ever completely

replace barcodes, due in part to their higher cost and in other part to the advantage of

more than one independent data source on the same object. The new EPC, along with

several other schemes, is widely available at reasonable cost.

The storage of data associated with tracking items will require many terabytes on all

levels. Filtering and categorizing RFID data is needed in order to create useful

information. It is likely that goods will be tracked preferably by the pallet using RFID

tags, and at package level with Universal Product Code (UPC) or EAN from unique

barcodes.

The unique identity in any case is a mandatory requirement for RFID tags, despite special

choice of the numbering scheme. RFID tag data capacity is big enough that any tag will

have a unique code, while current bar codes are limited to a single type code for all

instances of a particular product. The uniqueness of RFID tags means that a product may

be individually tracked as it moves from location to location, finally ending up in the

consumer's hands. This may help companies to combat theft and other forms of product

loss. Moreover, the tracing back of products is an important feature that gets well

supported with RFID tags containing not just a unique identity of the tag but also the

serial number of the object. This may help companies to cope with quality deficiencies

and resulting recall campaigns, but also contributes to concern over post-sale tracking

and profiling of consumers.

It has also been proposed to use RFID for POS store checkout to replace the cashier with

an automatic system which needs no barcode scanning. However, this is not likely to be

possible without a significant reduction in the cost of current tags and changes in the

operational process around POS. There is some research taking place, however, this is

some years from reaching fruition.

- 24 -

An FDA nominated task force came to the conclusion after studying the various

technologies currently commercially available, which could meet the pedigree

requirements. Amongst all technologies studied including bar coding, RFID seemed to be

the most promising and the committee felt that the pedigree requirement could be met by

easily leveraging something that is readily available.

- 25 -

Employee Identification

4.1) Human Resource Management

Human resource management (HRM) is the strategic and coherent approach to the

management of an organization's most valued assets - the people working there who

individually and collectively contribute to the achievement of the objectives of the

business. Human resources management comprises several processes.

The follwing processes can be performed in an HR department, but some tasks can also

be outsourced or performed by line-managers or other departments.

Workforce planning

Recruitment

Induction and Orientation

Skills management

Training and development

Personnel administration

Compensation in wage or salary

Time management

Travel management (sometimes assigned to accounting rather than HRM)

Payroll (sometimes assigned to accounting rather than HRM)

Employee benefits administration

Personnel cost planning

Performance appraisal

The workers are hired by the HR Department after tests and interviews. After finalizing

the selection, the HR department collects information about the employees. This

information is used to create profiles of all the hired employees in a database that is used

for employee identification and tracking.

- 26 -

Some information is already acquired when the employees fill the application forms. That

information is verified by the HR Department. Any other information about the employee

can be acquired after his interview and selection. Usually the organizations ask for the

following information.

First and Last Name

Father’s Name

Date of Birth

NIC Number

Education

Previous job experience

Home Address

Contact Number

References

Photograph

On selection of the applicant, all this information is verified. After verification, the

employee is asked to join and an Identification Card is made for the employee. The

employee is assigned an employee number according to his department and designation.

A profile containing all the information about that employee is added to the database.

- 27 -

4.2) The ID Card

The Card usually has the following format:

The employee card usually has the following information:

Organization Name

Employee Identification Number

Name of the Employee

Designation of the employee in the organization

Department of the employee

Some organizations use shirts with different colours for employees of different

departments for easy identification. The colours of the employee cards are also kept

different according to their departments.

- 28 -

Operation Identification

5.1) Operation Identification

The identification of operations can be very useful in reducing defects and errors in the

workflow. It can also help to calculate the efficiency and performance of the workers and

the machines. The operation identification is done usually by the Industrial Engineering

Department. The IE department designs the workflow of the manufacturing. The IE

department performs the following operation in an apparel unit:

Planning for maximum output

Designing line for proper workflow

Line Balancing

Method study

Work Measurement

Breaking Operations into smaller ones

Reduce throughput time and thus lead time

Minimizes the chances of bottlenecks

The IE department has a vital role in implementation and management of identification

system in the production department. IE designs the line which is the first and foremost

requirement for the implementation of a proper garment identification system. Different

machines are put in a particular layout in the unit so as to minimize handling. A balanced

line can make the identification system much easier to be installed. The more balanced

the line, the more effective will be the garments identification system. In fact, an

identification and tracking system is not effective until the production line is properly

designed and balanced.

- 29 -

The managerial excess most influenced by the skill of the managers and supervisors is

probably that due to poor line balance. It can be reduced considerably by anticipation and

planning. Effective planning depends upon:

A knowledge of the garment(s) manufactured;

The way in which production can be sectionalized;

The capacity of the workplaces, in terms both of machinery and of the skill of the

operatives who work there.

The steps to a proper line balancing are:

Calculation of the labour requirements;

Operation breakdown;

Time study;

SAM calculations for each operation;

Theoretical operation balance;

Initial balance;

Balance control.

Consider the balancing of a line where a ladies knitted top is to be manufactured. The

first step in the line balancing is to break the whole process into small elements.

- 30 -

5.2) Breaking the operations into small elements:

No. Machine Operation Description SAM

1 Whipper Elast. Elasticate, attach lace and elastic to

sleeves

0.70

2 O/L Join two back seams 1.00

3 O/L Friller Att. Front yoke 0.60

4 O/L Friller Att. Back yoke 0.60

5 O/L Join one shoulder 0.35

6 L/S Att. Lace to front yoke 1.00

7 L/S Bind Att. Binding and lace to neck & tab 0.70

8 O/L Join second shoulder 0.35

9 O/L Join sleeve seams 0.40

10 O/L Friller Attach sleeve on round 1.40

11 Whipper Whip hem 0.90

12 L/S (zz) Top stitch neck and sleeves 1.00

13 2N L/S Yokes and top stitch each side to hold 1.00

Total 10.00

Exam. 0.20 Fold. 0.10 Press. 0.10

Total Standard time

10.40

The manufacturing of this top is broken into 13 small elements each of which is going to

be performed by an operator specialized in that particular element or operation. The

standard allowed minutes are calculated through time study and the machines have been

allocated according to the requirement of each operation. A proper flow has been

developed but it still can be improved by adjusting the machines in a way as to minimize

delays or bottlenecks. This is done by balancing the line. When a theoretical operation

balance is completed, then the management must check that the garment can be produced

with the operations as selected.

- 31 -

5.3) Alternative arrangements

Method Description Result

Operations in parallel Long operations

performed by two or more

people

Improved flexibility

Operations in series Long operations split Greater specialization

Method/Construction

changes

The garment, the way in

which it is made up or the

sequence of operations is

changed. Tasks

transferred from one work

station to another.

May be a fall in efficiency

Workplace improvement work study and capital

investment concentrated

at bottlenecks

Reduced manufacturing

times

- 32 -

To balance the previous flow line to a more effective level, some changes can be made:

Work

Station

Operation No. Operation Description SAM

1 1 Elasticate, attach lace and elastic to

sleeves

0.70

2 2 Join two back seams 1.0

3 3 & 4 Att. Front yoke, Att. Back yoke 1.2

4 6 Att. Lace to front yoke 1.0

5 13 Yokes and top stitch each side to

hold

1.0

6 5,8 & 9 Join shoulders, join sleeve seams 1.1

7 7 Att. Binding and lace to neck & tab 0.7

8 10 Attach sleeve on round 1.4

9 11 Whip hem 0.9

10 12 Top stitch neck & two sleeves 1.0

Total 10.00

The above table shows a much more balanced line in which there is a less chance of

bottle necks, off standard time and delays. Sequence of some operations is changed and

the operations with smaller SAM are joined into one workstation to make the workflow

smoother. If the workflow is smooth and there are no bottlenecks, it’s much easier to

identify every operation in the manufacturing of a product and the operator performing

any operation can be tracked at a later stage. For this very reason, each and every

operation must be identified, its work method defined, its standard time calculated and its

rate per dozen pieces be calculated.

The IE Department gives a name to every operation, along with the machine on which the

operation is going to be performed and gives a code to that operation to make it unique

and differentiable from other operations. An operation details sheet as used in Masood

Textile Mills is shown on the next page:

- 33 -

5.4) Operation Details As used in Masood Textile Mills

Customer PO: JCP-POLO5746-Q ID:

Style Code: 2D06011503

Cutting Rate: 18.00 Planned Div.: Apparel 1

Collar Opening Rate: 4.50 Approved By: 9106-ABDUL WASEEM

Operator: AP23516 Cuff Opening Rate: 2.50

Seq # Code Process Name Machine

Type

Rate Per

Dozen

SAM

2 483 Placket Fusing Press 3.50

3 15 Moon O/L Over Lock 2.00

4 14 Cuff Cutting O/L Over Lock 2.00

5 10 Cuff A O/L Over Lock 4.00

6 97 Cuff B F/L Flat Lock 3.50

7 24 Moon Attach L/S Lock Stitch 5.50

8 C02 Placket A L/S Lock Stitch 9.00

9 11 Shoulder A O/L Over Lock 4.00

10 08 Shoulder B F/L Flat Lock 3.00

11 09 Collar Cutting O/L Over Lock 3.00

12 18 Placket B L/S Lock Stitch 16.00

13 21 Collar A L/S Lockstitch 11.00

14 16 Collar B L/S Lock Stitch 8.00

15 07 Body Hem F/L Flat Lock 5.00

16 12 Side O/L Over Lock 6.00

17 G696 Arm Hole A O/L Over Lock 5.00

18 06 Arm Hole B F/L Flat Lock 5.00

19 19 Side Vent L/S Lock Stitch 21.00

20 C07 Cuff + Thoka L/S Lock Stitch 3.00

21 B75 Loopi Making L/S Lock Stitch 2.50

22 27 Kaj & Button Button Holer 5.50

26 04 Twill Tape + Press Press 1.50

27 05 Moon Press Press 3.00

28 F40 Heat Transfer

Label

Press 2.40

29 02 Garment Press Press 8.00

Total: 167.40

- 34 -

Customer PO: JCP-POLO5730-B ID:

Style Code: 2D07031520 Cutting Rate: 28.00

Planned Div.: Apparel 1 Bundling Rate: 7.00

Collar Opening Rate: Approved By: 33662-SOHAIL ABBAS

Operator: AP23516 Cuff Opening Rate:

Seq # Code Process Name Machine

Type

Rate Per

Dozen

SAM

1 15 Moon O/L Over Lock 2.00

2 24 Moon Attach L/S Lock Stitch 5.50

3 184 Cuff Rib Cutting O/L Over Lock 2.00

4 938 Cuff Rib Attach O/L Over Lock 4.00

5 C10 Cuff Rib Top Stitch

F/L

Flat Lock 3.50

6 629 Sleeve Inseam O/L Over Lock 4.00

7 25 Placket A L/S Lock Stitch 10.00

8 369 Shoulder Attach O/L Over Lock 4.00

9 B22 Shoulder Top Stitch

F/L

Flat Lock 3.00

10 I85 Collar Attach + Twill

Tape

Lock Stitch 11.00

11 729 Collar Cutting O/L Over Lock 3.00

12 L76 Placket Finish “B” Lockstitch 16.00

13 16 Collar B L/S Lock Stitch 8.00

14 61 Bottom Hem F/L Flat Lock 5.00

15 L77 Side Seam O/L Over Lock 8.00

17 BA1 Sleeve Attach Over Lock 10.00

18 922 Arm Hole Topstitch Flat Lock 5.50

19 19 Side Vent L/S Lock Stitch 24.00

20 J64 Cuff + Thoka L/S Lock Stitch 3.50

21 AR1 Vent Bartack Button

Holer

2.50

22 27 Kaj & Button Button

Holer

7.00

23 I37 Main Label on Heat

Transfer

Press 2.40

24 04 Twill Tape + Press Press 1.50

25 C05 Placket Fusing Press 3.50

26 02 Garment Press Press 8.00

Total: 184.90

- 35 -

The codes given in the above table are used for convenience and identification. Every

operation must have a particular code. These operations do not only help in identifying

the operations but also help in calculating the pays and incentives of the workers

according to the operation performed by the worker. Barcodes are generated containing

information about every operation. These barcodes are placed on tickets which are put

into the bundles when they are packed. If a garment is manufactured in 13 operations,

and there are 24 garments in the bundle, there will be 24x13=312 operations involved in

the manufacturing of the 24 pieces. A ticket is generated for every type of the operation.

The number of tickets is equal to the number of operations involved in to manufacturing

of that garment. In this case there will be 13 tickets in the bundle bag each representing a

particular operation for 24 pieces. The format of the ticket is:

- 36 -

The ticket contains the following information:

Purchase Order Number for the identification of the garment type and the

customer.

Operation Description for the identification of the operation type.

Operation code.

Standard allowed minute for the operation.

Number of pieces in the bundle.

Rate of the operation per dozen pieces.

The barcode also contains the same information and is used when this information is to

be saved into the database. This ticket is given to the operator when he completes the

stitching of all the pieces in the bundle. On completion of a bundle, the worker writes his

ID on the backside of the ticket. The supervisor or the line manager keeps collecting

these tickets from the machine operator from time to time. At the end of the day, the

supervisor hands it over to the IT Department. The IT department opens the profile of

every operator one by one using his id at the back of the ticket and scans it through the

barcode reader which saves the information to the profile of that particular operator.

5.5) Pay and Incentives Calculation in the Identification system

Consider a machine operator PD1067, performing side seam operation. There are 24

pieces in every bundle and the operator is going through all the bundles one by one. After

completion of every bundle, he writes his ID, PD1067 at the back of the ticket and puts it

into his pocket or any safe place or hands it over to the supervisor. The supervisor

collects the tickets and at the closing of the day he hands all the tickets to the IT

department. If the operator PD1067 has completed 20 bundles that day, he would have

handed over 20 tickets to the IT Department. The computer operator in the IT

Department would then open the profile of PD1067 and scan all the 20 tickets. All the

information would be saved into his profile which would generate his work done and his

pay accordingly.

- 37 -

No. of pieces per bag= 24

Bags finished= 20

Rate per dozen= Rs. 8.00

Number of dozens of pieces= (24x20)/12

= 40 Dozens

Pay earned by the operator= 40x8

= Rs. 320

So, at the end of the day, the worker has earned 320 Rupees. At the end of the week, the

worker can get the amount he has earned in that week. His incentives and bonuses can

also be calculated by this system which depends on the incentives and bonus system

defined by that organization. This is done by checking the efficiency and performance of

the worker. For example, if a firm has an incentives system in which the top ten most

efficient workers are awarded with incentives, the identification system can provide the

list of the top ten workers at any time. This information can then be used for awarding

incentives and bonuses. The employee of the month or employee of the year is also

selected by comparing efficiency and performance of all the workers through this

identification system.

5.6) Efficiency Calculation in the Identification System

The efficiency and performance of the workers is also measured by this system. This is

done by calculating the number of pieces or dozens of pieces a worker completes every

day. The formulae for calculation of efficiency and performance are stored in the

database which keeps calculating the efficiency and performance of every worker.

Efficiency:

No. of pieces completed= 480

Target Number of pieces= 600

- 38 -

Efficiency= (Number of pieces completed / Target No. of pieces) x 100

= (480 / 600) x 100

= 80%

This formula is stored in the database and it keeps calculating the efficiency of all the

workers and can be reviewed any time.

- 39 -

Identification in Cutting

6.1) Fabric Identification

Identification in cutting department is used to identify the fabric, the bundles and thus the

garments later on. Identification codes generated for the Cutting Department are:

Fabric lot number for fabric identification.

Bundle number for bundle identification.

Cutting ID of the cutting master.

6.2) Fabric Lot Number

The fabric, either woven or knitted is brought to the cutting unit in the form of lots. Each

lot is given a particular lot id. The lot id is usually in alpha numeric form i.e. a

combination of letters and digits. This lot id contains the following information about the

fabric:

Customer Name:

The lot id usually starts with customer’s brand name. It is usually used in abbreviated

form e.g. JCP or JP can be used for JC Penney.

Style or Garment Description:

After brand name comes the style name or the description of the garment to be

manufactured. For example AZ is used for Arizona which is a style name of the JC

Penney Apparels.

Fabric Design:

A combination of letters tells about the weave or knit design of the fabric. SJ stands

for single jersey fabric. RB stands for Rib. Sometimes the garment consists of more

- 40 -

than one type of fabric. In this case, a combination is defined which represents all the

fabrics used in the garment.

Inspection Results:

The lot id also tells about the condition of the fabric. In many manufacturing units,

AA is included in the lot id which means that the fabric was declared OK by the

fabric inspector in the first inspection. BA means that the fabric had some faults in the

first inspection. Then it was mended and was again inspected and declared OK by the

fabric inspector. Similarly CA means that the fabric was declared OK after two

repairs.

Lot Number:

If there are more than one lots of the fabric with same colour and design, a number is

put at the end of the lot id which identifies the similar lots from each other.

Example:

A lot of fabric with a lot id; JPP542SJYAA3 shows that the fabric is

manufactured to make garments for JC Penney, P542 is the garment or the style

description, SJ shows that the fabric is Single Jersey in Yellow colour, fabric has no

faults and is in satisfactory condition for use, there were more than one lots of the

same fabric and the fabric with this id is from the third lot.

- 41 -

Every lot id has a particular meaning. It can vary from order to order, organization to

organization. The development of lot id depends on the preferences of the

manufacturer. Lot id can be used directly in the alpha numeric form with each lot, or

barcodes can be developed which can store the lot id and when brought in alignment

with the barcode reader, it can refer to a particular entry made in the database for that

particular lot of the fabric.

6.3) Bundle Identification

Fabric is then spread and cutting is started. The cutting department cuts the fabric

according to the number of pieces required for each size. After cutting, pieces of same

size are separated. Then bundles are made. A bundle may contain the cut pieces of ten

to twenty four or more garments of the same size. This depends on the nature of the

unit and the flow line. These bundles also require identification. The bundle id is used

to identify every bundle. The bundle id consists of a combination of numbers and

alphabets that helps in identifying lets from each other. There can be more than a

hundred lots for an order, so the identification of the bundles is important. Usually the

bundle id contains four to five letters or digits which are enough for its identification

because the brand name and the PO number are already there on the ticket attached to

the bundle. Bundles are usually plastic bags which contain the pieces of fabric ready

for stitching. The bundle id tickets are pasted on these bags and the IT department is

asked to generate barcodes and ids for each garment and operation.

The name or the employee id of the cutting master is also present on each bundle.

This is usually used to track the cause of a defect at any later stage in response to a

complaint. This helps in finding out the machine on which the defect was produced.

The root cause of the defect can be traced and eliminated in this way.

The bundle id ticket is usually in the following format:

- 42 -

The bundle id contains the following information:

Purchase order number for that particular order.

Packing date of the bundle or the bag.

Style Number as given by the customer.

Cutting Unit Number in which the cutting of the bundle took place.

Garment Description.

Rack Number on which the bundle is placed.

The barcode containing a number that refers to the database entry containing

information about the bundle.

Fabric Lot Number.

Size of the garments in the bag.

- 43 -

Cut ID or the Employee ID of the Cutting Master.

Weight of the bag in Kilograms.

Colour of the fabric.

Number of bundles in the bag. Usually it is one but sometimes there are more than

one bundles in the bag.

Number of Pieces of garments in the bag.

Bundle Number which is used for the identification of the bundle from other

bundles cut for the same order.

The bundles with tickets are then moved to the assembly line for stitching.

- 44 -

Identification in Production

7.1) Garment Identification

After cutting and bundling, the bundle bags are brought into the production line. The flow

line is designed and the bundles are handed over to the first work station so that the

production may be started according to the theoretical work flow. In the bundle bags,

along with the operation identification tickets, there are garment identification tickets

which are used to identify and track garments. These tickets contain a code that tells

everything about the garment. The format of the ticket is following:

These tickets are printed and put into the bundle bags and have to be stitched into the

garment during the stitching process. Each ticket contains three identical codes, each of

which provides information about the garment. One part of the ticket is removed by the

In-Line inspector, the second is removed by the Final Inspector and the third one remains

with the garment for identification and tracking at a later stage. The ticket usually

contains the following information:

Customer Name in abbreviated form

Garment Description

Fabric Lot number from which the garment is cut

Bundle Number

Piece Number

Size

- 45 -

The above garment id contains five parts:

DK: DK is the abbreviation of the customer name or the brand name. For example

JCP is used for JC Penney, DK is used for DKNY, NX is used for NEXT and

similarly CK is used for Calvin Klein. The customer name is very important in

identification of the garment as there can be orders from different customers in

the production line.

JO: This is a little explanation of the garment that is going to be stitched. It can

also be a representation of the PO Number. This separates different orders from

same customer. For example SPS can stand for striped polo shirt. Similarly HTS

may stand for Hooded Tee Shirt.

4L76: 4L76 is the bundle number which was cut for this particular order. This

bundle number separates different bundles made for the same order. This is the

bundle number or the bag number in which the cut pieces are brought from the

cutting department to the production line. After cutting, the cut pieces are

separated according to their sizes and sometimes according to colour, and are put

into plastic bags. Each bag contains a specific number of pieces to be sewn. The

number of Garment ID tickets is same as the number of pieces of garments in the

bundle. The bundle number separates the cut pieces that are from the same

customer, order and fabric lot but are packed in different bags. “4L” represents a

colour, “76” represents the bundle number of that colour and size.

21: This is the piece number of the garment in the bundle. A bag containing 24

pieces of garments will have 24 tickets, each to be attached to one garment. The

piece number separates the garments in a bundle that are from same customer,

order, fabric lot and bundle.

- 46 -

XL: XL represents the size of the garment to be sewn. This separates the garments

with same id but different size.

The tickets are printed on a special kind of paper which has a good washing fastness so

that the ticket may not deteriorate on washing. The ink used for printing must also has a

good washing fastness so that it may not fade out on washing. The number of tickets in

the bag is equal to the number of pieces of garments to be made out of that bag. Tickets

are printed in a combination to save time and are cut and separated in the production unit.

For a bundle with 24 pieces of small size to be stitched, the tickets are placed in the bag

in the following form:

- 47 -

These tickets are printed together to save time and avoid any misplacement of tickets.

The tickets are separated and are handed over to the operator performing side seam or

shoulder seam. He stitches the ticket into the garment.

After the stitching of the garment, the In-Line Inspector checks the garments for quality

assurance. If he finds the garment okay he removes a part of the ticket and pastes it on hi

work sheet. If the garment is not in the perfect form, he hands it back to the operator for

mending of the fault.

- 48 -

At the end of the day the In-Line inspector writes his name and ID on his worksheet

where he had pasted the tickets and submits it to the IT Department. The IT department

checks the id of the inspector and the profile of that worker is opened. The identification

codes of the garments that he has cleared are added into his profile. His pay is also

calculated on the number of pieces that he has cleared that is equal to the number of

tickets he has submitted.

At any later stage, in case of any complaint from the consumer or the customer, the ID of

the garment is tracked. This tracking tells everything about that garment including the

inspectors name and id who had declared that garment okay. Thus if an inspector declares

a defected garments as okay, he is going to be responsible for that complaint.

The garments that have been declared okay by the In-Line Inspector are then taken to the

finishing department. In the finishing department, the Final Inspectors inspect the

garment clockwise. All the seams and stitches are checked and in case of any defect, a

small blank sticker is pasted at the point where the defect is observed. The defected

garment is then handed over for mending. If the fault is removable, the garment is

mended and again brought to the inspector who checks it again until it is declared okay.

On declaring the garment okay, the Final Inspector removes the second part of the ID

Ticket and pastes it on his worksheet and submits it to the IT department at the end of the

day. In case of any complaint at any later stage, the inspector can be easily tracked

through the tracking system and is held responsible for the complaint.

- 49 -

Identification in Packing

8.1) Identification in Packing

The finished and inspected garments are carefully placed into a plastic bag and the bag is

closed. The assortment plan is provided by the customer. This assortment plan contains a

packing plan for each carton in terms of the different sizes and colours. Usually

assortment is done on basis of the sizes but sometimes the customer demands assortment

on basis of colour. After putting the garments into the carton according to the assortment

plan, the carton is closed and sealed.

The carton also needs identification. One must know what’s inside the carton without

opening it. So, a sticker ticket is pasted on the carton which explains the product inside

the carton. This identification is also used by the quality assurance department for final

inspection. The final inspectors select some cartons from the store before shipment and

inspect them for quality assurance.

The carton identification ticket usually has the following format:

The carton identification ticket usually has the following information:

- 50 -

Purchase order number.

Style number as provided by the buyer.

Colour of the garments in the carton.

Sizes of the garments in the carton.

Number of pieces i.e the number of garments in the carton.

The Barcode containing all the above information for auto ID.

- 51 -

Identification in Shipment

9.1) Identification in Shipment

Identification codes are also used while shipping the garments through sea or air to any

other country or state. These barcodes and symbols contain the name of the consignee

and the shipper or the name of the companies involved. It also has information about the

product inside the cartons. The barcodes and other identification codes are in the form of

a sticker which is pasted on the master carton. The sticker has the following format:

It contains the following information:

- 52 -

Address of the office of the manufacturer or the shipper who is manufacturing and

shipping the product to the buyer.

Address of the buying company where the goods are to be shipped.

The Lot number or the carton number which identifies cartons from each other.

Contract number of the deal between the buyer and the manufacturer.

Sizes of the garments in the carton either individual or assorted.

Purchase order number.

Colour of the garments in the carton.

Pack Quantity in each master carton.

Origin. The country where the goods have been manufactured.

Barcodes containing P.O. number, item number and quantity and destination

address for auto ID.

- 53 -

Identification at Shops and Marts

10.1) Identification at Shops and Marts

The identification and traceability logic is as important in a shop as it is in the industry.

The identification and tracking systems are used on shops to identify and track products

in the inventory. It is also used to save time using auto-ID tools like barcodes and RFID

tags. An increased traffic in a shop can cause many problems like customer

dissatisfaction due to wastage of time waiting in a queue. If the shopkeeper has to check

all the garments visually and then make the bill or any other documentation, a lot of time

is consumed. Contrary to this, if barcodes are used on every garment in relation to a

database in the pc, the shopkeeper just has to bring the barcode in alignment to the

barcode scanner. The scanner will automatically open the information of that particular

garment and add this information to the receipt to be printed, thus saving a lot of time.

Similarly, if RFID tags and scanners are used, the time consumed in aligning the scanner

and the ticket is also subtracted. In addition, the RFID Tags can also be used for security

purposes and minimize the chances of theft from the shop.

The barcodes or RFID Tags used at garment shops usually have the following

information:

Brand Name.

Style number or style name of the garment.

Size of the garment.

Colour of the garment.

Price of the garment.

The barcode attached to a garment usually has the following format:

- 54 -

NEXT is the brand name, Silver Hawk is the style name, Size, Colour and price is also

mentioned along with the barcode.

RFID tags are often envisioned as a replacement for barcodes, having a number of

important advantages over the older barcode technology. They may not ever completely

replace barcodes, due to their higher cost. Still some famous brands stores and shops use

RFID Tags on the garments.

- 55 -

Conclusion

The identification at all stages makes it quite easy to assess and control all the processes

taking place in the manufacturing of apparel products. The identification and traceability

logic helps to reach the root cause of any problem or defect and makes it possible to

totally remove the problem and avoid it later on. The identification logic makes the flow

smooth and decreases the lead time. The customer complaints are treated in a much better

way leading to total customer satisfaction. Identification and traceability logic is also a

tool for total quality management and is a step towards zero defects.

Identification if implemented properly can reduce any chances of ambiguity at any stage.

Each garment, operation and worker has a particular identity which differentiates it from

all similar entities. The tracking system can locate any entity at any time which can save

a lot of time which otherwise would have been wasted on searching that entity. Auto-

Identification can also save a lot of time while loading the information into a computer

system. The barcodes and the other auto-id tools are moving the apparel industry towards

automation and innovation which will help the apparel industry to grow technologically

and reduce human involvement.

The induction of the latest technology in the local apparel industry is the need of the hour

and a great deal of emphasis should be given to this fact in order to keep ahead of the

competitors. Identification and traceability logic is one such important step which should

be taken to keep pace with the latest industrial trends.

- 56 -

Recommendations

The logic designed for identification and tracking is not a standard for any industry or

any particular type of manufacturing. Every organization can design a logic that suits its

needs and requirements. Every organization has a particular setup and the logic should be

designed according to the system of the organization.

Implementation of identification and tracking system needs high level of programming.

Skilled software engineers should be hired for designing the system. The system can also

be designed by providing the needs and requirements to a software development firm.

Different computer programming languages can be used to create, manage and retrieve

the database. The tracking system should be easy to edit and modify so that any changes

in the structure and system of the organization can easily be added into the tracking

system. Similarly, the software should have the facility to be altered according to the new

orders from the customers.

The barcode development should be maintained properly to avoid any chances of errors

later on. Well maintained barcode printers should be used for printing barcode tickets to

increase the life of the tickets.

Barcode readers should have a high degree of accuracy to avoid chances of errors. A

cheap or old reader can alter the data stored in the barcode or it takes more time to read

the barcode which results in wastage of time.

Properly balanced flow in the assembly line is very important for implementation of the

garment identification and tracking system. The manager should make sure that a worker

completes stitching a complete bag before he leaves the workplace. Half completed bags

can sometimes lead to ambiguities.