production and faults in cutting, sewing & finishing in a knit garment industry

Literature Survey

2.1 Literature Survey

2.1.1 Cutting

Cutting is the first step and very critical step for garments production. The wastage during

cutting is an important issue. Different cutting faults can be occurred which should be

minimized.

Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part. In this factory

no marker paper is used, they used pattern direct on the fabric for marking then cut the fabric.

After cutting, the cut pieces are numbered by numbering Machine.

Fig 2.1.1 Cutting machine

2.1.2 Objects of cutting

The object of cutting is to separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the dimension

of the marker for the purpose of garments making according to the pattern pieces.

2.1.3 Cutting Flow Chart

File Receive

↓

Size Set

↓

Pattern correction

↓

Bulk cutting

↓

Print

↓

Sewing Input

2.1.4 Cutting Section Contain File receive1. Purchase order sheet

Buyer & seller information, buyer & seller contact, cost & quantity, terms & conditions,

transit etc.

2. Fabric order sheet

Fabric details, approved lab deep, color code etc.

3. Mini marker

Sketch of minimize accessories, sticker, pound sticker, care label etc.

4. Trim card

Finishing accessories, sticker, pound sticker, care label etc.

5. Fabric swatch

Approved fabric swatch by buyer

6. Specification sheet

Its include measurement of various part of a garment.

7. Accessories details

Name of size, color, supplier & quantity of various types of accessories, as like, technical

label, ratio sticker and carton

8. Production sheet

Bar code, selling price, unit cost etc

9. Design sheet

Fabric composition, fabric consumption, color, yarn count, fabric weight, zip confirmation,

first shipment date, wash/finish etc.

Size Set

10. Pattern

From sample section

11. Sample

From sample section

12. Fabric

From store/dyeing section.

Pattern correction13. Sewing

14. Measurement

15. Report/correction

Bulk cutting1. Pattern amendment

2. Fabric arrange

3. Fabric relax

4. Spreading

5. Marker ratio

6. Marker

7. Fabric lay

8. Cutting machine

9. Sticker

10. Bundling

11. Reject replaces

Fabric receiving

Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric

from the marker. In case of multiple color order, color wise requirement is made. Fabric

department issues fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement.

Fabric relaxation

This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric it get stretched.

So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after making.

To relax the fabric roll or than is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours. In real practice

fabric relaxation time is 5-6 hour.

Spreading

Spreading refers smooth lying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length.

Cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. The maximum width of the cutting

Marker constrained by the usable width of fabric. The number of plies depends upon the

thickness of fabric.

2.1.5 Marker MakingMarker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before

cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width

of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker

is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.

The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize

wastages.

2.1.6 Considerable points before marker making

1. Fabric width (1/2) higher than marker width

2. Fabric length higher than marker length (1” + 1”)

3. The grain line should be parallel to the line of Wales in knit fabrics.

4. All the pattern pieces of garments should be along the same direction when laid on an

asymmetric fabric.

5. Considered garments production planning.

2.1.7 Factors related to marker efficiency

1. Marker planer

2. Size of garments

3. Marker length

4. Pattern engineering

5. Fabric Characteristics

6. Marker making method

7. Marker width.

2.1.8 Methods of marker making

Marker is manufactured after pattern of a garment. The width of the marker is not greater than

fabric width. It is generally with thin paper or news paper. Al he large size pattern to be seated

on a marker paper. Then the places of marker are size pattern to be seated on a marker paper.

Then the places of marker are to be filled up with small pattern. As result we get greater marker

efficiency. It is work of experience and knowledgeable person. Marker can be made in the

following methods:

1. Manual marker making.

2. Computerized marker making.

Fig 2.1.2 Marker paper

2.1.9 Marker Efficiency

Marker efficiency means the ratio of the all pattern on the marker paper to total area of the

marker and it is expressed as percentage (%) is called marker efficiency. This indicates the fabric

using ability of a marker. So mathematically we can write:

Marker Efficiency = Area of the pattern piece of the marker x100%

Total area of the marker

Factors Affecting Marker Efficiency

1. Manufacturers of the marker.

2. Size of pattern pieces.

3. Length of the marker.

4. Pattern Engineering.

5. Nature of the fabric.

6. Method of marker making

7. Marker width.

Fig 2.1.3 marker setting on cutting section

Inspection During Marker Making

1. To check the marker if it is 1way or 2 way.

2. Grain direction checking.

3. Pattern pieces count in relation with size ratio.

4. Pattern to pattern distance.

5. Proper control of line should be checked.

6. Professional marking

2.1.10 Methods of Cutting

Manual method of fabric cutting

1. Scissor.

2. Straight knife.

3. Band knife.

2.1.11 Straight Knife Cutting MachineBrand name: KM

Model: MACK-AUV

Country of origin: Japan

Speeds: 300-3600 rpm

Bleed length: 8 inch to 10 inch.

Weight: 15kg

Per hour capacity: 110-160 lay

2.1.12 Machine Parts of Straight Knife Cutting Machine1. Base plate

2. Plug

3. Clamp washer

4. Pressure foot

5. Blade

6. Sharpener pulley

7. Pulley spring

8. On/off switch

2.1.13 Features of Straight Knife Cutting Machine1. Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays

2. Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric

3. High cutting speed

4. Sharp and heavy corners can be cut

5. Blade could be sharpened by attaching grinding facilities

6. Blade height 08 to 10 inch.

7. Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm

8. Special attachment such as sew edge or serrated edge can be provided for heavy fabric

such as canvas or denim.

2.1.14 Sequence in Cutting Room

Store section

↓

Cutting section

↓

Laying by lay pen

↓

Marker by pen according to pattern paper

↓

Cutting by fabric cutter

↓

Stickering

↓

Bundling

↓

Quality inspection

↓

Sewing input

2.1.15 Numbering

In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker

number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

Fig 2.1.4 Numbering Stickering Machine

2.1.16 BundlingPrepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

1. Date

2. Style No

3. Size Number

4. Card Serial

1. Quantity

2. Color

3. Lot Number

Fig 2.1.5 Bundling

2.1.17 Panel Checka) Oil spot

b) Dirty spot

c) Crease mark

d) Needle mark

e) Foreign yarn

f) Slub

g) Contamination

h) Hole

Fig 2.1.6 Panel checker

2.2 Sewing This section includes only inspection area. The function of this section isj to make a completed

garment by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.

2.2.1 Accessories of Sewing Section

1. Sewing thread.

2. Needle.

3. Tread-spun.

4. Care label.

5. Twill tape.

6. Zipper.

7. Snap button.

8. Eye plate.

9. Elastic.

10. Button.

2.2.2 Flow Chart Of Sewing Section

Input from cutting

↓

Initial inspection part by part

↓

Stitching

↓

In-line check/table quality check

↓

End line quality check

↓

Size wise garments count

↓

Reject if can’t be repair

↓

Sewing output

2.2.3 Machines Details in Sewing Section

No of machine: 01

Name of the machine: Plain Machine

Brand name: Hikari


No of machine: 02

Name of the machine: Over Lock Machine

Brand name: Siruba


No of machine: 03

Name of the machine: Flat Lock Machine

Brand name: Siruba, Juki


No of machine: 04

Name of the machine: Back Tap Machine

Brand name: Siruba,


No of machine: 05

Name of the machine: Button Attaching Machine

Brand name: Hikari


No of machine: 06

Name of the machine: Button Hole Machine

Brand name: Hikari


No of machine: 07

Name of the machine: Snap Button Attaching Machine

Brand name: GMC

Country of origin: China

No of machine: 08

Name of the machine: Back tape Machine

Brand name: Juki


2.2.4 Plain Machines Activities

1. Label joint.

2. Back tape joint.

3. Back tape top stitch.

4. Pocket joint.

5. Placket box.

6. Zipper joint.

7. Body hem tuck.

8. Pocket top stitch.

9. Ribs tuck.

2.2.5 Flat lock machine activities

1. Neck top stitch.

2. Shoulder top stitch.

3. Arm hole top stitch.

4. Sleeve hem.

5. Body hem.

6. Leg hem.

7. Laid on tape top stitch.

8. Front rise top stitch.

9. Back raise top stitch.

10. Zigzag.

11. Pocket hem.

12. Shoulder to shoulder top binding.

13. Lay on tape joint.

14. False sleeve hem.

15. Cuff top stitch.

16. Top stitch at waist band.

17. Side seam top stitch.

18. Neck piping.

19. Arm whole piping.

20. Back tape joint.

21. Shoulder piping.

2.2.6 Over Lock Activities

1. Neck joint.

2. Sleeve joint.

3. Contrast joint.

4. Panel joint.

5. Side seam.

6. In seam.

7. Cuff joint.

8. Back rise.

9. Front rise.

10. Waist joint.

11. Neck piping.

12. Rib hem piping

2.2.7 Sewing Quality Checking Points

1. Skip/Drop/Broken stitch

2. Raw edge

3. Size mistake

4. Uneven hem

5. Uneven cuff

6. Uneven neck

7. Uneven shoulder

8. Uneven placket

9. Uneven pocket

10. Twisting

11. Without care label

12. Open tack

13. Sleeve up-down

14. Stripe up- down

15. Open seam

16. Four point up-down

2.2.8 Sewing Line Quality Checking List1. Buyer approved sample & measurement sheet check.

2. Sample wise input check.

3. Buyer approved sample wise style check.

4. All machine thread tension check.

5. Style wise print placement check.

6. All process measurement check.

7. All machine oil spot check.

8. Bundle mistake & size mistake check.

9. Buyer approved wise color check.

10. All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.

2.2.9 Sewing Table Quality Check List1. Style wise garments check.

2. All process measurement check.

3. Front part, back Part, sleeve & thread shading check.

4. Print Placement Check.

5. Main label, care label, size label & care symbol check.

6. Size mistake check.

2.3 Finishing This section includes process from Ironing to send to buyer. After making, it should be treated by

steam ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyers approved sample.

The process by which unwanted crease and crinkle are removed with the view of increasing

smoothness, brightness and beauty of the garments is called finishing. In the garments industries

it is called ironing. This process plays an important role to grow attractiveness to the buyers.

2.3.1 Object of Finishing

1. To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.

2. To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.

3. Improve the dimensional stability of the garments.

4. Improve the durability of the garments.

5. Modify the serviceability of the garments.

2.3.2 Work Flow in the Finishing

As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for reference:

1. Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment.

2. Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements.

3. Fold the garments as required by customer.

4. Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags), etc to the garments at this stage.

5. Insert garments into poly bags.

6. Divide garments as per size and color (assortment).

2.3.3 Flow Chart of Finishing Section

Sucker the fabric by sucker Machine

Ironing

Any spot Quality inspection spot remover room

Get up check

Measurement check

Size ways

Hand take

Folding

Poly

Ratio check

Assort

Packing /carton

Weight writing at stick

Buyer inspection

2.3.4 List of Accessories Used in Finishing

1. Main Level

2. Size Level

3. Care Level

4. Hang Tag

5. Bar code Sticker

6. Poly Bag

7. Tag Pin

8. Carton

9. Hang Tag String

10. Clip

11. Paper Gum Tape

1. Tissue Paper

2.3. 5 Types of Folding1. Board folding.

2. Hanger folding.

3. Solid folding.

4. Ratio folding.

Fig 2.3.1 folding

2.3.6 Types of Packing1. Solid size packing.

2. Ratio packing.

3. Assort packing.

Fig 2.3.2 Packing

2.3.7 Types of Carton1. Box carton.

1. Plain carton.

2. Master carton.

Fig 2.3.3 Carton

2.3.8 Quality Inspection Point During Finishing1. Broken stitch.

2. Skip/drop stitch.

3. Side seam open.

4. Down stitch.

5. Length up down.

6. Label mistake.

7. Size mistake.

8. Tuck mistake.

9. Without tuck.

10. Puckering.

11. Shoulder up down.

12. Sleeve up down.

13. Wrong size label joint.

14. Shading.

15. Needle mark.

16. Iron problem.

17. Print spot.

18. Dirty spot.

19. Fabric fault.

20. Fabrics reject.

2.3.9 Final InspectionIt is the last stage of the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing

organization, to detect any defective garments before packin

3.1 Data Report on Cutting, Sewing and Finishing for T- Shirt

3.1.1 Data Report Number of 01

Fig 3.1.1 Order sheet

Fig 3.1.2 Fabric order sheet

Fig 3.1.3 Total pieces sheet

Fig 3.1.4 Measurement sheet


Fig 3.1.5 Order sheet

Fig 3.1.6 Fabric order shee

Fig3.1.9 Order sheet

Fig 3.1.10 Fabric order sheet

Fig 3.1.13 Label sheet

3.2 Daily Cutting Productions Report

Fig 3.2.1 Cutting report

3.2.1 Daily Sewing Production Report

Fig 3.2.2 Sewing report

3.2.2 Daily Finishing Production Report

Fig 3.2.3 Finishing report

3.3 Per Day Production Report

Style name Buyer name Order name Per day cutting Per day sewing Per day finishing

T-shirts

Black out1500702

4400 4100 3800

Best by199853 4000 3900 3400

New Yorker 712492 4500 4100 3800

Table no 3.3.1 per day production report

3.3.1 Cutting Fault

Cutting fault number Cutting fault name Percentage

01 Wrong cutting 35.29%

02 Incorrect tension of plies 23.52%

03 Numbering mistake 11.76%

04 Pattern defect 5.88%

05 Improper cutting due to faulty knife 5.78%

Table no 3.3.2 Cutting fault

3.3.2 Sewing Fault Sewing fault number Sewing fault name Percentage

01 Seam Puckering 32.87%

02 Joining Stitch 23.15%

03 Broken Stitch 15.43%

04 Skipped Stitch 13.12%

05 Staggered Stitch 10.8%

06 Unbalanced Stitch 7.71%

Table no 3.3.3 sewing fault

3.3.3 Finishing FaultThe defects which are occurred in finishing process are enlisted below:

1. Unwanted marks on fabric 2. Decolorized patch on fabric 3. Pin holes 4. Bowing 5. Pilling 6. Water Spots 7. Cuts or Nicks 8. Seam Tears 9. Soil

4.1 Discussion of production report (table no 3.3.1)

The thesis topics of our work was cutting, sewing and finishing of garment. The name of the

departments itself explains that what are the main functions of these departments. In the table

production report for cutting, sewing & finishing has been discussed for three different style of

T- shirt. It is seen that cutting, sewing & finishing data has been varied due to the variation of

style of the T- shirt. Style variation means sleeve length variation, measurement variation, design

variation etc. Sometimes cutting faults happened due to marker and pattern faults as well

4.2 Discussion of cutting fault (table no 3.3.2)

Sewing is a vital process to make quality product in garments industry. Sewing faults are very

much common error in the line. Due to unskilled operators and helpers as well as supervisors

fault. Sometimes due to improper line balancing sewing faults severely happened in garments

line.In the table 3.3.2 it is seen that there are various types of cutting faults. Among all the faults

wrong cutting is the major problem and the percentage is so high i.e. 35.29%. On the other hand

improper cutting due to the faulty knife is the minor problem and the percentage is also less i.e.

5.78%. So it can be said that unskilled worker and wrong measurement is responsible for wrong

cutting. To remove this type of fault skilled worker and correct measurement is must.

4.3 Discussion of sewing fault (table no 3.3.3)

In the table 3.3.3 it is seen that there are various types of sewing faults such as unbalanced stitch,

staggered stitch, seam pucker etc. Among all the faults seam puckering faults is the major fault

and the percentage is so high i.e. 32.87%. On the other hand unbalanced stitch fault is not so

prominent and the percentage is also less i.e. 7.71%. Seam puckering is the shrinkage appearance

in the seam line. When the number of stitch per unit length is increased shrinkage problem is

seen. To remove this type of problem skilled worker, correct machine set up as well as perfect

material handling is mandatory.

production and faults in cutting, sewing & finishing in a knit garment industry

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