professional beauty gcc - may 2016
DESCRIPTION
Summer is notoriously quiet time for UAE businesses with the blazing temperatures sending expats and locals alike off to more clement climes for several weeks at a time. Yet shutting up shop for two months is not an option for most beauty and spa businesses, and with careful thought and planning July and August can be lucrative. To succeed in these months you should be thinking ahead now, and our columnist Maria Dowling has prepared five handy tips to help you start. Read her article “Here comes summer” and start summer proof your business. In a competitive environment, having a unique selling point or bespoke offering is essential. The Four Season’s spa are renowned for differentiation and it was with great interest that learned how to bespoke treatment menu was crafted for the chain’s spa at its new DIFC hotel, in collaboration with spa partners Terres d’Afrique. First impressions count. We have had treatment experiences spoiled by a lukewarm welcome or unhelpful receptionist.TRANSCRIPT
May 2016
REFRESH & REVAMP
Is it time to redesign your spa?
First impressionsHow welcoming is your reception?
Just the businessThe story behind truly bespoke spa menus
nailnittygrittyThe technology behind nail polish
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
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May 2016
REFRESH & REVAMP
Is it time to
redesign your spa?
First impressionsHow welcoming
is your reception?
Just the businessThe story behind
truly bespoke spa menus
nailnittygrittynittygrittynittygrittynittyThe technology behind nail polish
PROFEStSIO
NALBEA
UTYG
CC
SPA DESIG
N • N
AILS • BESPOKE M
ENU
S • RECEPTION
SKILLS
MAY 2016
5
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
NEWS All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa
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7news
LivNordic Spa launches in Dubai
Located in the Cayan Tower in
Dubai Marina, the spa, which
is the result of a partner-
ship between Raison d’Etre
and Cayan Hospitality (a subsidiary
of the Cayan Group), is delivering an
experience focused entirely on Nordic
wellbeing traditions.
LivNordic Spa provides holistic
treatments and intuitive services
derived from the health and beauty
secrets of Nordic countries. A Nordic
bathing treatment is among the high-
lights and combines spells in the sauna
with quick icy dips.
Commenting on the inspiration
behind the LivNordic concept, spa
director, Carolina Moquist, says:
“We believe that everybody has
a right to enjoy life and have
access to the tools to do so.
LivNordic pursues holistic
wellbeing by drawing on the rich
resources that the Nordic culture,
both traditional as well as contem-
porary, has to offer today. Inspired
by a natural sense of stillness,
innovative creativity and deep
abiding love for nature, our LivNordic
spas offer a space where you are invited
to engage with the dynamics that
allow for a balanced and healthy lifestyle
anywhere in the world – the Nordic way.”
In parallel to the spa treatment
menu, guests can also enjoy a
selection of Nordic organic smoothies,
drinks, snacks and juice blends,
with fairtrade and locally sourced
ingredients.
The spa also features a shop
retailing products that are used
throughout the treatments.
To celebrate the launch of the Kerasilk
range, Madi International teamed up
with Gloss salon in Dubai and Orchid
Beauty Boutique at Sharjah Ladies
Club for two exclusive client events.
The events were carefully curated
with drinks, cupcakes and biscuits
co-ordinating with the colours of the
Kerasilk range, while trainers and
marketing staff from Madi were on
hand to provide consultations to clients
and advice to the salons' stylists.
Clients, meanwhile, were given an
opportunity to experience the benefits
of the new Kerasilk line, which is
comprised of four different ranges –
Control, Reconstruct, Repower and
Color.
Incorporating both professional
and retail products for use at home,
Kerasilk is designed as a premium
haircare range that targets specific
concerns such as dryness, damage,
frizziness or limp hair and helps to
revitalise and transform hair.
“Kerasilk is a premium treatment
range is that is composed of only four
treatments, it’s a compact range but
very efficient in results and it covers
all our clients’ needs. Treatments are
relaxing and extremely effective so
we can be assured that clients will
leave happy and satisfied with our
salon,” says Ana Ledinski, spa and
beauty consultant, Sharjah Ladies Club.
“The launch was very successful and it
is one of the most popular treatments in
our salon now,” she adds.
LPG concludes successful participation at Dubai DermaThe French beauty brand showcased
its latest beauty and wellness solutions
at the event on 12 to 14 April at the
Dubai International Convention and
Exhibition Centre.
LPG exhibited its latest anti-ageing
and body slimming machines focused
on delivering medical and aesthetic
treatments at the event.
Ludovic Loffreda, chief executive
officer of LPG Bella Concept in the
Middle East said: “There is increasing
demand for natural dermatology
solutions and we are seeing remarkable
growth in the Middle East region
especially in the UAE market for such
treatments. Our successful exhibition
at Dubai Derma inspires us to grow
the brand in the region and to promote
LPG’s vision of ‘Responsible Beauty’
focusing on 100 per cent natural
anti-ageing and body slimming treat-
ments that respect the human body.”
Madi unveils premium haircare range
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news
Kerstin Florian chief creative officer Charlene Florian passes away
The spa and beauty industries
have been paying tribute to
Charlene Florian after she
passed away at the end of
March following a battle with cancer.
Charlene, the daughter of Kerstin
Florian, the founder of the skin-
care brand was the company’s chief
creative officer and had played a key
role in growing and promoting the
brand.
In an official statement from the
company, Kerstin Florian International
said: “Charlene was a shining light
within the industry, leading the path
for a healthy, more natural lifestyle and
touching everyone she encountered
with positivity, kindness and joy.”
Charlene’s death comes just a month
after Kerstin Florian’s husband Wayne
passed away.
The statement from the company
also praised Charlene as “inspirational
and vibrant”, stating: “She truly
loved her industry and the close-knit,
extended Kerstin Florian family she
was fortunate enough to work with for
over two decades.”
Charlene’s role within the company
included researching and developing
new products and treatments, and
acting as a spokesperson for the
company. Janette Gladstone-Watts,
founder of The Product House, which
distributes Kerstin Florian products in
the UAE, said: “Charlene touched the
minds and hearts of everyone she met
and her passion and contribution to
health and wellness and to the prod-
ucts she loved, was incredible.
“Seeing her insight, knowledge and
dedication while building the Kerstin
Florian portfolio was remarkable. Her
understanding of technology and the
depth of her research was incredible,
as was her warmth and kindness.”
In its statement, Kerstin Florian
International said of Charlene, who had
two daughters: “We will forever miss
her – her light and legacy lives on in her
children and the beautiful products she
created.”
Ispa honours Geraldine Howard with posthumous Visionary AwardThe International Spa Association
(Ispa) is dedicating its 2016 Visionary
Award to the memory of Aromatherapy
Associates founder Geraldine Howard.
The award, which will be presented
at the Ispa Conference and Expo in Las
Vegas in September, is given annually
“to someone in the spa industry who
has made significant contributions to
the movement of health and wellness”.
The award will be accepted by
Howard’s husband Peter Redman.
Ispa president Lynne McNees said of
Howard, who passed away earlier this
year after a long battle with cancer:
“Geraldine was a trailblazer for
aromatherapy and we are honoured
to celebrate her life and the impact
she made on the community.”
Past winners of the Visionary
Award, which was first presented
in1999, include skincare brand
founders Jane Iredale, Dr Howard
Murad and Horst Rechelbacher,
the founder of Aveda, and
Global Wellness Summit chairman
and chief executive Susie Ellis
– among others.
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news
Dubai Spa market to remain strong
A recent survey from Colliers
International has reported
a positive outlook among
Dubai spa operators.
According to the findings, 75 per
cent of spa operators are expecting
revenue growth in 2016, this comes in
spite of increasing competition in the
sector.
Colliers, a specialist in real estate
advisory services, compiled its report
based on the results of a survey
completed by 25 leading spa operators
between January and February 2016.
Additional findings from the survey
highlighted sourcing skilled manpower,
an increasing number of price sensitive
customers and an influx of new
entrants into the spa market as the
biggest challenges of 2015.
“Given that Dubai currently offers
a very limited number of spa-specific
college level courses and training
programmes, it is not surprising that
recruitment of therapists was identified
as the biggest challenge that the
market faced last year.
At present operators rely on external
training, which is both time consuming
and costly. Changes are on track,
however, as spa courses are being
introduced into curriculums,” says
Filippo Sona, Head of Hotels, Colliers
International in the MENA region.
“An area that does need further
attention, however, is the continuous
stream of new entrants offering the
latest in design and technology.
The Dubai hotel spa market, for
example, witnessed 11 new opening in
2015 alone. This presents spa operators
with a dilemma. Should I invest in
new trends? Or cater to the rise of
value-driven consumers? The answer is
knowing your market and knowing when
to say yes to an emerging trend,” Sona
adds.
2015 findings also revealed an
increase in the number of walk-in
clients, together with a general
increase in the number of treatments
sold per day.
“Despite the challenges, the Dubai
spa market has remained resilient and
continues to grow. Over 76 per cent of
respondents expect spa revenues to
continue to grow in 2016 which is a
tremendous result and indicative of the
rising growth of the industry and its ability
to drive guest bookings,” Sona says.
Pastels Salon creates own appWith technological developments in
the beauty sector continuing to gain
ground, Pastels Salon is capitalising on
this interest by launching its own app.
The launch of the app, which is avail-
able on both iOS and android, follows
closely behind the unveiling of Pastels’
new look website.
The app allows users to stay up-to-
date with the latest news and trends
from the salon. It also provides a GPS
location finder, enabling users to
quickly identify their nearest Pastels
salon, a meet the team section and a
photo gallery.
Future plans for app will see a book-
ing function included, allowing users to
quickly and easily schedule their next
appointment at the salon.
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Specialized Beauty holds skin awareness programme
The event was organised in
April to educate beauty
centre managers on the
importance of good skincare.
The programme, which showcased
the Reviderm products supplied by
Specialized Beauty in the Middle East,
included interactive discussions on
the importance of skin health and the
proper use of various cosmeceutical
treatments and anti-ageing products,
for specific skin types.
Live demonstrations wowed the
attendees with immediate results and
lifting, wrinkle removal, lightening, face
rejuvenation and skin tightening were
some of the treatments tried by the
guests.
Said Mania El Baba managing
director of Specialized Beauty,
“At Reviderm ‘skintelligence’ solutions
which define new standards in the
field of beauty and healthy skin are
developed in close coordination with
expert dermatologists and cosmetolo-
gists. Your skin health is very important
for your appearance, however it is the
largest organ in your body, performing
so many basic and vital tasks that are
crucial for the overall body functions.
All of the German anti-ageing
Reviderm skin treatments are for
beauty purposes and special
dermatological needs for both face
and body, men and women alike. They
have been developed using knowledge
gained from medical and cosmetic
research to harmonise modern
science with the essence of nature
by being formulated to mimic the
body’s natural processes.
The products used in the
treatments are all unique in their
type, quality, concentration
and combination of active
ingredients. They are free
of preservatives, chemicals
and parabens. Determining
the right treatment depends on
so many factors besides skin
condition, type and texture.
Environmental factors, seasons,
lifestyle, and overall health all play
an important role.”
Despite being in one of the world’s
most sun-exposed regions, the UAE is
reporting a remarkably low incidence
of skin cancer, according to one of
Europe’s leading dermato-oncologists.
Yet Dr Claas Ulrich, who heads the
skin cancer centre at Berlin’s Charité
University Hospital, one of Germany’s
most research-intensive medical
institutions, says the longer life spans
of UAE nationals and changing dress
patterns will increase the proportion
of sun exposure related skin diseas-
es, paralleling trends in other parts of
the globe. Added to that the Emirates’
high number of expatriates, prone to
sunbathing, could increase the
incidence.
Dr Ulrich recently addressing a
gathering of UAE-based medical
practitioners and dermatological
specialists across Dubai and Abu
Dhabi in lectures organised by the
Swiss global leading dermatology
company Galderma, the medical
solutions company of Nestlé Skin
Health, which has just launched its Day-
long sunscreen range in the Emirates.
“The fact is nationals in the UAE are
living longer thanks largely to major
strides in the healthcare sector,”
explained Dr Ulrich. “While most of the
people over 60, particularly women,
have largely been protected from
ultraviolet radiation – the main cause
of skin cancer - thanks to conservative
clothing, reports show their most
exposed areas, the face and hands
and even feet are vulnerable. Our data
shows that long-term exposure to
the sun in one of the world’s sunniest
climates has led to increased suscepti-
bility among this age group.”
Currently UAE nationals have an
UAE reports low skin cancer rate, but sun-exposed skin diseases could rise warns expert
average life expectancy of 77 – one of
the highest in the Arab world. Dr Ulrich
points out, however, that the UAE’s
incidence of sun cancer – which is one of
the world’s most common accounting
for one in every three cancers diagnosed
globally – is likely to be influenced
by the country’s large number of
expatriate residents which makes
up around 90 per cent of the overall
population.
“Sunbathing here is a popular
pastime particularly among the
Western expatriates who by and
large have the fair skin that is most
vulnerable.”
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Industry news from around the globe
The Maldives’ Amilla Fushi resort partners with Bodyism
Javvu Spa at the Amilla
Fushi Resort in the Maldives
has announced a part-
nership with the Bodyism
fitness and wellness concept.
Through the partnership, which
came into effect earlier last month,
Javvu Spa clients are now able to
take Bodyism fitness classes and
personal training sessions and
order food created in accordance
with the Clean and Lean nutrition
guidelines that form part of Body-
ism.
The Bodyism training concept
incorporates a Body Oracle diag-
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Six Senses Spa launches Kids Wellness ProgrammeA healthy alternative to a Kids’
Club, The Six Senses Spa team at
the Elounda Peninsula All Suite
Hotel in Crete has devised a
programme that includes wellness
education and spa treatments for
children aged five to 12 years.
The three-day programme intro-
duces the children to the principles
of wellness and a healthy lifestyle
with specialist classes, games, and
treatments, as well as workshops
about healthier living to educate
them on how to integrate wellness
into everyday life. Attendees will
learn how to do a foot scrub, paint
nails and make organic beauty
products as well learning about
herbs and gardening.
The programme takes place in a
special facility with the indoor area
covering 7,500sq ft and comprising
classrooms, activity rooms and a
wellness treatment area, as well as
a kitchen and changing rooms. The
outdoor area is 43,000sq ft and
includes an eco-gym, labyrinth
garden and meditation cave,
Hippocrates garden, pool and
playground.
Sales of face oils grows by double digits in the UK
nosis, assessing the client’s fitness
and level of fat storage, as well as a
focus on weight training, alignment
and posture. The aim is to create
“long, lean athletic bodies".
Classes available to guests
include the Clean and Lean Class,
fusing elements of yoga, pilates,
ballet and interval training to
stretch, tone and burn fat.
There is also the high-intensity
Clean and Lean Warrior, designed
to build muscle and improve
strength and flexibility; and the
Bodyism Ballet, focusing on core
strength, flexibility and posture.
The Bodyism health
supplements are also
on offer at the spa.
A new Island
Café by Clean and
Lean has also been
created at the spa,
serving unprocessed and gluten-
free food. Dishes on the menu
include aubergine puree, cauli-
flower rice and grilled pineapple.
Bodyism was founded by James
Duigan 10 years ago and has
acquired a celebrity following in
the last decade, with a number of
high profile clients on its books
between 2014 and 2015.
The face oils category includes
cleansing oils and anti-ageing
oils. NPD said growth in the
category was driven by an
increased awareness of the prod-
ucts, as well as by new launches.
Best-selling face oil products in
2015 included the Huile Orchidee
Bleue and the Huile Santal, both
from Clarins.
Teresa Fisher, senior account
manager, NPD UK Beauty, said:
“The recent growth in the
face oil market is boosting the
prestige skincare market by
increasing sales, and also
demonstrates the enthusiasm
with which consumers adopt
new rituals and are willing
to try new products and
innovations.”
Sales of face oils
saw double-digit
growth in the
UK in 2015,
according to
figures from market analysts
the NPD Group.
While face oils still account for
just one per cent of the prestige
women’s skincare market, sales in
the category rose by 30.8 per cent
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23designs
Redesigns are tricky business: how often are they necessary, how much should you change and how do you carry them out successfully? Nora Elias finds out from the experts.
“There is no hard and fast rule and it does vary
from business to business, but we tend to see reno-
vations after 10-12 years,” says Graeme Banks, design
director at Barr and Wray. Gerard McCarthy, sales direc-
tor as Dalesauna, adds that “as a rule of thumb, when it
comes to the type of equipment we would supply, you
would probably be looking at about 8-10 years, in terms
of shelf life”. Sue Harmsworth, founder of Espa, says
that while they are also seeing redesigns come up after
about a decade, this is affected by how you build your
spa to begin with.
“A spa is operational 12 hours a day and gets
hammered by traffic and usage far more than a hotel
bedroom, for example, so if you don’t have good quality
finishes to begin with, you’re going to need to
refurbish quicker,” she says. “I always try to explain
that to my clients, and we use a lot of hard finishes in
our spas, because they’re more durable. We’ve worked
on some very high quality spas that are 15 years old and still
looking good, whereas if you’ve used a design
model with cheaper finishes, you’re looking at five,
maybe six years.” g
A combination of everyday wear and tear and
the dating of décor and features means any
long-running spa will eventually need a de-
sign touch-up, whether in the form of small-
er decorating tweaks or a complete facilities
overhaul. But how do you know when to refurbish and
how much to change, and how do you carry out ren-
ovation work with minimum disruption to your guests,
and minimum loss of revenue to the business? Experts
say that while there is no rule for how often a spa de-
sign needs to be updated, dependent as it is on the
size and concept of the spa and the traffic it sees,
there is a pattern.
Revamp and refresh
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Planning points To get your redesign right you should, explains Rolf
Glantz, head of architecture and design at Klafs, en-
sure you make the changes that are right for your busi-
ness. “The planning phase should start with the ques-
tion: what will the USP of my spa be?” he says. “The
challenge for redesign projects is therefore to focus
on ideas that are suitable to the positioning of the spa.
Whatever you do should redefine the positioning of
your spa.” Planning your project carefully, putting re-
alistic timeframes and budgets in place, is also key to
successful renovation work. “Time is an important ele-
ment; don’t underestimate how long things will take,”
McCarthy says.
“Don’t underestimate the disruption the work will
cause and build a little bit of comfort into your times-
cale, so you’re not promising users that the spa will be
open on a certain date, and then disappointing them.”
Adrian Egger, managing director of Thermarium,
agrees that thorough planning is key. “Redesign needs
to be seen as just as, if not even more, complex than
developing a new concept, “ he explains. “You have
limited possibilities, limited time and usually limited
investment. A redesign needs to be planned properly
and carefully to become a success.”
Manufacturing off site and shipping items in is a
system frequently used by Medical Spa and Wellness
Group, previously known as Schletterer. “When we
conduct a renovation, various elements are prefabri-
cated in our construction plant, so that a large part of
renovations can be performed during the night,” says
the company’s founder Heinz Schletterer. “Conse-
quently guests are not disturbed and with this method
even bigger renovations can be completed after clos-
ing, or the closing time can be kept extremely short.”
Open for business? Whether or not to close during a redesign can be a
complicated decision, one on which opinion differs.
“It’s a difficult one and it really depends on the spa,”
Banks says. “If the spa fully closes then guests will go
elsewhere and there is a chance they may not return.
However, if you renovate [and stay open] guests will
be inconvenienced and you run the risk of alienating
them,” he continues. “The ideal scenario is to try and
keep the spa open, renovate outside spa working hours
and try not to inconvenience guests.” Harmsworth,
however, says that in her experience, it’s difficult to
keep the spa open during a redesign.
“I really find it difficult to renovate and keep an op-
eration going, though obviously many people do try
to do this, for financial reasons,” she says. “My view
is that you can’t do any noisy work while treatments
are being carried out, because that will irritate peo-
ple and then you lose revenue, which negates having
kept the spa open.” Harmsworth’s advice is to prepare
yourself as well as possible for the renovation, closing
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“If the spa fully closes guests will go elsewhere and there is a
chance they may not return. However, if you stay open
guests will be inconvenienced and you run the risk of alienating them”
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“Redesign needs to be seen as just as,
if not even more, complex than developing a new concept. You have limited possibilities,
limited time and usually limited investment. It needs
to be planned properly and carefully to
become a success”
the doors to the spa once everything’s in place. “You
don’t close until you’re absolutely ready, but once you
do, you work on it 24/7, with teams working round
the clock,” she says. “By doing that you, in my experi-
ence, alienate far fewer people than if you try to keep
it open.”
For McCarthy, whether or not to stay open during
renovations is a decision that should be made on a
case-by-case basis. “It depends on the size of the pro-
ject,” he says. “If you’re a larger facility, you might be
able to board off one area at a time, renovating zone
by zone and minimising the disruption to existing us-
ers,” he says. “But if you’ve got a relatively small space
and you’re doing a lot of work, it [might be better] to
close the whole facility for two weeks and just get it
done. It depends very much on circumstances.”
Small changes, big impact It’s not only the quality of finishes that can affect how
often you need to redesign but also the décor you opt
for. In the view of the experts, less is definitely more
when it comes to spa design. “Good design is not too
fancy and is quite timeless, so that your spa stays
modern for longer and doesn’t look old-fashioned af-
ter a few years,” Glantz says. “I’m not a fan of themed
spas, because they date very quickly,” Harmsworth
adds. “As concepts, they move on very quickly, but
they’re also very fixed, so if you do want to move on
from them, you’ve got to radically change.”
Neville Brownhill, director of UK-based spa and well-
ness firm Atlam Design Worldwide, similarly advises
spas not to get too carried away with trends. “Yes, you
can go with what’s considered fashionable and cut-
ting-edge at the time, but think about what that will
look like in 10 years’ time,” he says. “Will you be as hap-
py with it then as you would have been with a more
classic style? Probably not.”
That doesn’t mean you can’t introduce standout
design elements. “If we put a striking feature in, we
might do it with lighting or put something on one wall
– things you can change without having to change the
whole room,” says McCarthy. Harmsworth suggests
that updating less fixed features can be a good idea
if you’re looking to refresh the appearance of your
spa. “You can change paint colours or update your lin-
ens and uniforms and smaller decorations,” she says.
Egger recommends spas to regularly implement small-
er design changes, to keep things new and interesting
in-between more complete, and by necessity more
rare, redesigns.
“There is a lot you can do to please clients between
bigger redesigns; with slight adjustments such as col-
ours and light,” he says. Bayes agrees that it’s impor-
tant to offer your customers something new every now
and then, to keep things exciting. “You need to create
new stories, don’t you, to keep the interest up,” she
says. While she explains that this could, for example,
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28designs
mean “creating an amazing manicure/pedicure area”,
it could also be something as simple as tidying up.
“Treatments rooms, for example, need to be func-
tional in terms of having lots of storage space, so they
remain uncluttered and are easy to maintain, but it’s
amazing how many don’t have enough storage,” she
says, adding that at Sparcstudio they “always try to
create as much as possible”. Echoing this, Harmsworth
says: “Sometimes decluttering, a major deep clean
and a lick of paint is all it needs, it can be as straight-
forward as that but make a huge difference.”
Redesign and repositions Not everyone is a fan of change, so could a redesign
run the risk of driving away some of your clients?
Possibly but, the experts advise, it’s not an overwhelm-
ing risk, and it’s one worth taking. “There is always a
chance you could alienate existing clients, but the risk
of this happening is very slim as you will always be ren-
ovating to improve the guest experience,” Banks says.
A redesign could also be part of rebranding and repo-
sitioning your spa, in which case you might be willing,
even find it necessary, to shed part of your client base.
“A redesign can be a springboard for re-launching
yourself into the market and as a marketing tool to
create interest in the facility. This point of view is rein-
forced by Bayes, who comments that “you may want
to reposition the spa anyway. Particularly hotels with
spa memberships, because sometimes the member-
ship is not that lucrative and you might want to make
it more exclusive; refresh the membership and attract
a new audience.”
While architecture and design is undoubtedly
important, it is of course only one of many elements
that make up the concept and success of a spa and
opinions vary on how important it is to keeping up
with the competition and attracting and retaining
customers. “Staying ahead of the competition is
always a desire but with the fast-moving world
in which we live now and the constant changes in
trends, you could end up changing so often that you
lose your identity,” Banks says.
However, Glantz believes that regular design
updates are essential to keeping your spa attractive
to clients. “Even when the spa is up-to-date
and in good shape we advice our clients to do
something new every two years, so that they have
something interesting to talk about,” he says, though
he adds that this doesn’t mean “that you have to
update the whole area”. Schletterer also believes that
architecture and design is key to keeping up with and
ideally staying head of what other spas are doing.
“If nothing changes in the spa, it will still persist,
but it will fall behind its competitors as trends
move on,” he says. “So for most spas, adaptation is
definitely a necessity.” This is something Brownhill
agrees with, commenting that not keeping on top
of your design could see you lose clients.
“Refurbishment will always be necessary because
losing the edge when it comes to décor can mean
clients become less enthusiastic,” he says. It seems
that in a market as competitive as today’s, spas
cannot afford to be complacent in any area, and
design is no exception. PB
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
professionalbeauty.ae
29business tips
Charlene touched the minds and hearts of everyone she met: her passion and contribution to health and wellness, and the products which she created and loved, will be never ending...
Charlene will remain in our hearts forever and she will continue to spread her wings
across the world...
The Product House The Product House | PO Box 37427 Dubai UAE
T +971 4 379 1966 | www.theproducthouse.biz
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
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30business trends
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Ask the expertsOur beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
Having been in the beauty / hair industry for several years now, I’m looking for a new challenge and so I’m considering launching my own product collection. What factors do I need to consider in doing so?Your knowledge of the business: EIDEAL’s birth and
success mainly go back to the fact that I had an extensive
knowledge of the beauty industry. Experience in
the field in which you are about to invest is crucial,
especially because your time and money are on the
line. That’s exactly why my first and most important
advice would be for the person to get involved, in the
field before fully immersing him/herself in it just to
make sure that this is indeed what he/she wants to do.
Your passion for the business: “Passion is the key
to success” is not just a quote that you would read
somewhere on your social media feed, it is reality!
Doing something that you are really passionate about
will get you where you want to be and might lead you
to the unexpected! Passion will also help you deal with
failures that are indeed part of the journey, without
it, you will find yourself jumping from one thing to
another and eventually going nowhere.
The target market and profit: Financial capital
is what we are all after, whether we admit this or
not. Moral support and appreciation are definitely
important but at the end of the day, you want to bring
bread to the table. That’s why studying the market
is what determines your business’ success or failure!
There needs to be a demand for your product and
people willing to buy it.
Your capital: We always hear and read about success
stories of people who started their business with a
very little budget; however in most cases this is not
the norm when launching your own brand or line.
A good budget will allow you to start off on the right
track ensuring that you deliver a quality that’s better
than what is in the market or at least as good. Our
strategy and aim are to always offer the market
something different, and that’s how you create a
partnership built on trust with your clients.
Competitors: An absolute monopoly is rare in our
modern world. One must always keep competition in
mind and use it as a drive to excel. I like to think of
competition as an advantage rather than a drawback;
I believe it is what keeps me going.
Managing expectations: The beauty industry requires
a lot of patience. One needs to manage his/her
expectations in businesses that require buying and
selling. When it comes to our industry, one must take
into consideration the seasonal aspect of it and the
difference in demand variations between one month
and the other. There are months where you will
witness an intense demand for your products,
and others where the market will be in a complete
hibernation mode.
In a nutshell, I am not here to claim that starting
one’s business is an easy task that can be done if you
keep these factors in mind. However, using them as a
guideline will definitely smooth out the process and
will help any potential entrepreneur stay on the right
track while focusing on the end result and the reason
why he/she started in the first place.
Haysam Eid is the founder and managing director of EIDEAL. He began his career in hairdressing, honing his talents at Toni & Guy in London and also completing the prestigious L'Oréal Professionnel Color Specialist Degree. After majoring in Business Management, he went on to establish EIDEAL, which specialises in the manufacture and sale of products to professional hair salons and end-users.
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32ask the expert
professionalbeauty.ae
33launch analysis
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
We are looking to introduce semi-permanent make-up services to our treatment menu, what should we do to ensure we are properly equipped to do so?
Semi-permanent make-up gives an array
of benefits that range from shortening the time
spent applying cosmetics each day to helping
clients with cosmetic and medical conditions.
It is a long-term investment for both the
salon and the clients. Semi-permanent make-up will
enhance the appearance of eyebrows, eyes, lips and
scalp, as well as camouflaging scars and other skin
discolouration. This is achieved through a process in
which an organic pigment is embedded beneath the
skin to add colour. The procedure involves the use of a
hand-held device that punctures the skin hundreds of
times per minute with a very thin needle and pushes
the pigment into the desired location.
It is one of the most sought after beauty treatments
today, especially from busy mums and working women.
In fact semi-permanent make-up can benefit anybody
of any age or complexion.
Semi-permanent make-up is for people who don’t
want to spend time applying make-up all day long.
It is a make-up treatment that will last for years. It is
also designed to enrich a person’s features and can
give them a beautifully groomed look, day in, day out.
Whether they are just waking up, swimming laps, or
working up a sweat, their make-up will look perfect
all the time.
Semi-permanent make-up can last anything
between two to four years, but this can depend on
skin type, sun exposure and lifestyle. This is why we
recommend to clients to have a top up treatment after
several months to keep the look fresh and complete.
However effective and long-lasting results will
depend not only on the quality of the product
and skills of the technician, but also on the pre-
and post-procedure care. Only the perfect balance
between machine, needles, colour and application
technique can achieve the correct result.
Semi-permanent make-up is a luxury treatment
that can be offered at any salon, clinic or spa.
In order to be able to offer this service at your
premises you first need to have trained and
licensed staff. To become a semi-permanent make-
up artist, you must be trained by a recognised
and licensed training school that specialises
in semi-permanent make-up. When choosing a
training programme, I strongly recommend paying
attention to the course curriculum, the theory,
the practical and hands-on experience received.
Furthermore, the school that you choose, if you are
based in the UAE, must be licensed by the Knowledge
and Human Development Authority (KHDA) and the
Health Authority. Only through the KHDA will you
be able to receive a license from the municipality to
legally work as a semi-permanent make-up artist in
this region.
Semi-permanent make-up is a precision treatment;
therefore it is vital to choose a recognised brand
that adheres to the latest international standards
within the cosmetic industry. To make it worthwhile,
investigate only established semi-permanent make-
up technicians and equipment that can help deliver
superior results.
Oliyah Joseph is a fully qualified technician and master instructor in micropigmentation with over 10 years experience in the cosmetic industry. Initially trained and qualified in Russia, she achieved her master diploma in semi-permanent make-up three years ago at the Biotek Academy in Milan, Italy. Oliyah runs her own renowned beauty and training centre in Dubai.
professionalbeauty.ae
34ask the expert
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
We are opening a new day spa before the end of the year and are looking for some tips on how to effectively recruit a talented team?
Recruiting a talented team is, in my view,
the most important piece of the jigsaw for
the success of a new spa business. I have
always championed the idea that quality
of treatments should be a much higher
priority than luxury and location.
My tips: Plan your HR budget and don’t press for the
minimum spend – you get what you pay for! Don’t
appoint too many employees pre-opening – build
your team as bookings pick up keeping everyone
busy from the start.
Pay a good basic salary to encourage new
employees to join your team. If business is not
immediate they will worry a commission-based salary
could be risky for them – make it known that this is
likely to change when it becomes more profitable for
all – which is an incentive in itself.
Appoint a great team leader (spa manager) and
you will have a happy work force. Ticking the finance
and capability boxes for management – even with
certificates of training – do not necessarily make for a
"good" team leader. Whether the owner is managing
or a manager is appointed, it is essential they are liked
and they have the respect and trust of their team as
well as the hands on ability to train. Spend time and,
if necessary money, on finding this person first – they
will then give guidance on recruiting the rest of the
team.
Advertise: Post individual ads for each job title rather
than trying to attract a team via a general ad.
Tailor the ads accordingly – remember to sell
the job as well as stating the required criteria
for applicants. Give them some knowledge of
the size, concept, products, salary and benefits
– the more information they have the more
likely they are to apply and be seriously
interested in doing so.
Shortlist: Though specific criteria must be met and
checked, your gut feeling should not be ignored.
Look at where they have previously worked and for
how long – is their past experience in tune with your
concept?
Interview: If they cannot be met in person arrange
a Skype interview. Do not “cold call” them, email
them to arrange a time and give them a chance to
check you out and prepare themselves – remember
this is a two-way interview! I know managers
who even watch trade tests over Skype and spot
potential with further training on arrival.
Check references: I am a firm believer in calling
past employers and speaking with them directly.
The contract: Make sure the contract is completely
clear and that it covers your commitment to them as
well as theirs to you. Show patience when explaining
any unclear points. It should be read and signed
before the arrival of the employee.
Look after your team members and they will stay
loyal to you and your business. Employees who are
content don’t leave and instead they build you a
good and regular client base.
Miranda Allard is chief executive officer (CEO) of recruitment agency Spa Staff.com, which she launched in 2000 after spotting a gap in the market. In addition to her role as CEO, which often sees her advising employers on special recruitment needs, Miranda has been involved in spa marketing, consultancy, international judging and has written several pieces in the media as a spa expert.
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
professionalbeauty.ae
37hair opinion
I’ve only just packed away my winter wardrobe (even in Dubai we do have winter wardrobes!) and
I’m already hearing clients talk about their summer holidays and bemoaning “what they will they do without me
for eight weeks!”
Although the salon remains well and truly open throughout the summer months and beyond, there is a
definite change in the vibe, purely because so many of our fellow Dubaians tend to jet off to foreign climes
to escape the heat.
In terms of your business, planning for the summer should have started already, and if you haven’t started
by now, then today’s the day. Take a look at my five pre-summer considerations to keep business booming
whatever the weather.
Hello summer
Maria Dowling discusses “summer proofing” your business, starting now
Planning the hairstylesI start talking to my clients about their
thoughts for summer styles and colours quite early
in the year. Low maintenance colour and cuts seem
the most popular. Fringes (bangs) that have looked
amazing over the winter months are generally not a
good idea in the heat and humidity of the summer.
If you’ve gone for the chop in November, think about
growing it long enough to tie back when you get to
June. Many of our clients keep the same styles come
rain, shine or humidity but I think it’s the job of a
stylist/beauty therapist to put the idea out there in
more than enough time to do something about it.
Buy for retailOur retail mix over the summer does change
– ideally we want to bring in more SPF products,
treatment conditioners, sun sprays, mini sizes – all the
things your customers may be likely to need over the
summer months. Bearing in mind that by October,
everyone is starting to think about winter hair again,
we keep the buying quantities small. So talk to your
suppliers now to see if they have any seasonal retail
products that would suit.
Staff holidaysThe team at mariadowling tends to split its
holidays throughout the year but a large chunk of
these holiday days are taken in the summer. It’s often
a good time to encourage staff to book their holidays
but beware of the classic assumption that summer
is going to be quiet, before finding that it’s a busy
period and you’re short staffed! I find that the end of
July and beginning of August is quieter for us whereas
near the end of August people start returning as the
schools go back, so I prefer not to have too many
stylists off in those last two weeks.
Fill those appointment booksStart planning ahead for your clients and get
those summer appointment books filled. While our
team is really good at preparing their clients for
future appointment bookings, I still want to ensure
that when I look at the appointment book for one or
two months down the line, it is at least 50 per cent full
with re-bookings. This gives us an idea of our turnover
forecasts and allows us to plan for stock purchasing,
staffing etc.Plus it’s comforting to know that you still
have a business, come the summer months!
Summer promotions – are they a good thing?
For me, the jury is out on summer promotions. As a
salon, we don’t do many promotions but that’s not to
say they aren’t effective when done well. Sometimes
clients who are still in the country need a little
encouragement to leave their sofas and come into the
salon more often than they would normally. However,
be careful not to cheapen your brand or attract the
“serial promotions clients”. These clients are the ones
who only visit a salon with a promotion/discount/buy-
one-get-one-free offer. They are rarely loyal and will
jump to the next salon when your offer ends. I believe
what really works for a salon is to promote value-added
treatments or competitions such as “win a day of
pampering”. The most important thing to remember
with promotions is to keep them short and make sure
they end before your regular clients start to return.PB
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Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call +971 4 345 42 25.
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38business trends
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
professionalbeauty.ae
39nail chemicals
Many questions have been raised lately
around the safety of nail polishes and
the ingredients therein, as consumers
become far more aware. Brands are
constantly competing with one another
in order to produce the best polish on the market, with
just the right combination of chemical ingredients to
ensure that a formula offers all the qualities a good
professional nail polish should: full coverage, chip-
resistant, extended wear, superior shine, and an overall
flawless finish.
However, there is so much confusion and misunder-
standing about chemical safety and toxicity, you may
find yourself facing questions from a misinformed
customer. Questions raised may include, “Is there
formaldehyde, toluene or dibutyl phthalate in the
product?” And customers will expect you to give an
informed answer.
The nitty-gritty of nail polishSonette van Rensburg takes an in-depth look at the technology behind nail polishes, and what sets them apart from one another
IngredientsMost nail polishes consist of a combination of:
• Pigment – used to create and add colour and also
assists with coverage.
• Film-former – assists in making the polish durable
and shiny. The most common film-former is
nitrocellulose. An interesting fact is that the film for
old-fashioned black-and-white movies is made of
nitrocellulose. g
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
• Resin – makes polish tough and resilient.
• Tosylamide – very commonly used in most nail
polish brands.
• Solvent – most brands use a combination of butyl
acetate, ethyl acetate and toluene for easy
application. Solvents are also used in nail polish
removers.
• Clay – aids with suspension and helps to keep
the ingredients mixed and makes polish easier to
apply.
• Plasticiser – helps with preventing chips and
cracks. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) has been used
for many decades as a nail polish plasticiser. It is
also used in soft toys, baby bottles and tubes for
dispensing food and medicine.
• UV stabiliser – prevents sun and light from fading
or changing the colour.
Do most professional salon brands contain the
same ingredients? Mostly they do, however each
manufacturer differs in the quantities of ingredients
and solvents they add to their product. These
ingredients have been used by nail polish
brands for decades now. The same primary
ingredients are used in most base and
top coats, with the exception of clays and
pigments.
Are nail polishes safe?Nail polish products have been used safely for
decades, by many women across the globe. The
natural nail is made up of keratin, a non-living
hard durable substance that is oil and
moisture-loving. Nail polish dries to a hard durable
surface, and, once the ingredients in the polish
become embedded in the hardened film coating,
they are not absorbed by the body or released into
the environment.
Most polishes are a combination of plasticisers,
resins, UV stabilisers and solvents to give a high-quality,
high-shine and chip-free product. Plasticisers are
additives that maintain the flexibility of resins
after they have dried. They are a sort of a molecular
“lubricant”, which make the resin less vulnerable to
chipping.
Resins are a type of polymer that holds the
polish together. They are composed of giant
molecules that are made by linking smaller
molecules into long chains and networks. After the
polish has been applied, the solvent component of
the polish evaporates to leave behind a smooth, hard
coat of lacquer. Because it evaporates, the solvent is
responsible for the strong odour that polishes emit.
Solvents must be compatible with resins, so that
the resins can be evenly spread on the nail. Those
solvents that evaporate too slowly or too quickly can
ruin the lacquer or cause bubbling.
UV stabilisers are additives that help keep
lacquers from changing colour when exposed to
too much UV light from the sun.
The truth about formaldehydeInternationally renowned product chemist Douglas D
Schoon believes that some advocacy groups globally are
incorrectly claiming that formaldehyde is an ingredient
in cosmetics.
“They are even loudly proclaiming that formaldehyde
is a known carcinogen and are demanding that
manufacturers remove this cancer-causing ingredient
from cosmetics,” says Schoon. “Actually, if these groups
understood formaldehyde’s basic chemistry, they
would see their claims are absolutely wrong. They’d also
know that formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and
never has been.
“Advocacy groups incorrectly claim that formaldehyde
is an ingredient found in nail hardeners, and nail polishes.
So, how can I be so sure that formaldehyde has never
been a cosmetic ingredient? Because formaldehyde is
a gas, not a liquid or a solid. A gas cannot be added
to cosmetics as an ingredient, since it would rapidly
escape from the product.”
Schoon notes that formaldehyde is a naturally
occurring gas that must be kept absolutely bone dry.
In the presence of even tiny amounts of moisture, it
instantly transforms into completely different
substances.
“This is why it quickly breaks down and doesn’t
accumulate in the environment. As you can imagine, this
is yet another reason why formaldehyde can’t be used in
cosmetics; it wouldn’t be stable for more than 1000th of
a second after contact with moisture.”
How did this misunderstanding begin? Sometime in
the early 1900s, formaldehyde manufacturers began
mixing this gas with water to create a liquid substance
called “formalin”.
“These manufacturers mistakenly assumed that
the added formaldehyde was simply dissolving in the
water and this is how formalin was sold. They didn’t
realise that formaldehyde does not dissolve in water,
but instead instantly reacts with the water to change
into a completely new and different substance
called methylene glycol, which belongs to an entirely
separate chemical family.” PB
professionalbeauty.ae
41nail chemicals
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for over 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills.
professionalbeauty.ae
42business trends
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
Back in February I had a life changing
experience. I was invited to the Professional
Beauty Show GCC in Dubai, not just to
be a speaker but to be an ambassador for
Professional Beauty. Why was it life changing?
I had not been to Dubai before and I felt privileged to
be among such industry experts. This experience has
inspired me to want to work in the GCC and be part of
the emerging beauty industry.
For those who didn’t attend my talk, a little more
about me. My official title is “global beauty industry
strategist”. What does this mean? My team and I
work on major campaigns within the beauty industry
analysing and anticipating trends and demands. We
educate and train both professionals and beginners in
how to become successful in the world of make-up.
I have been a “beautyprenuer” and educator for a
long time – I have seen the industry evolve with many
changes. Education and retraining is imperative for a
practitioner to stay abreast. We at Eryca Freemantle
Shades of successOur new columnist Eryca Freemantle gives us top tips for succeeding in the make-up industry
are very proud to be one of the
market leaders and agents
of change. We have a new
global campaign “Embracing All
Tones of Women” out of the UK,
which is about to go global
and encourages make-up artists
and beauticians to retrain and
become aware of opportu-
nities with newfound knowl-
edge. We offer programmes,
competitions, business devel-
opment, networks and short
courses, which give therapists
the opportunity to increase
their profits through our various
platforms.
I’d like to share our top
tips for aspiring make-up
artists in the GCC. g
professionalbeauty.ae
43opinion
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
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45opinion
For further conversations with Eryca, whether you are a make-up or skincare brand or you are interested in her courses, please email [email protected] or visit www.erycafreemantle.com T: @erycafreemantle
Your name is your brand In the beauty industry it is imperative to protect
your name, there is nowhere to hide once your name
is tarnished. Remember to be professional at all times,
deliver and be reliable.
RelationshipsYour network is your net worth. It is important
to learn how to nurture relationships and not expect
all promises to manifest. Partnerships and alignments
are great ways to grow your business. Networking
events such as beauty shows and exhibitions are great
platforms to meet others within the industry. At such
events, be prepared, have your one-minute pitch ready,
have your business cards, be ready for the unexpect-
ed, be confident and most of all enjoy the moment.
Online beauty forums are becoming very
popular, this is a softer way to meet
others who can support you with your business.
It can be a lifeline to the beauty community especially if
you are too busy to attend the major shows.
Embrace all tones of women
Perfect the art of make-up for different skin tones. It
is important that all artists are able to perfect the art
of make-up or skincare application for any client with
confidence. After market research, we found 75 per cent
of therapists are nervous and reluctant to work on
skin tones that are not their own. This must change
and fortunately we offer professionals the opportunity
to become educated through our short courses.
We often collaborate with make-up schools,
hairdressing academies and beauty establishments
where we offer our master courses and consultancy
services. The world is becoming smaller, and is often
referred to as a global village. That is exactly how you
should view your skills. Ask yourself if your business
can truly cater for all skin tones? I can’t emphasise this
enough – we in the industry should see things in tones
and hues and not ethnicities.
The importance of training and up-skilling
It is essential to keep testing and refreshing your
skills, meeting and mixing with other peers in the
industry. If you are not careful the beauty industry will
eat you alive. You can get caught up in the glitz and
glamour and not make any profits. Many have fallen
by the wayside simply because they didn’t or don’t
have a plan. It is very hard to not want to be able to do
everything. Continual training and honing your skills is
the only way forward in order to grow your business.
Every two years, you should look at your business and
assess your weak areas and also consider embarking
on something new. It is a hard and painful process –
I know because we’ve just revaluated our business
recently. Once you decide what you want to train or
retrain in, it is important that you do your research
and get a greater understanding of your chosen
course. How will you benefit? What will you achieve?
Remember make-up is not just about the art, there are
thousands upon thousands of great people who can
apply make-up – just look at Instagram. Make-up is
serious business. PB
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
“After market research,
we found 75 per cent of therapists are nervous
and reluctant to work on skin tones that are
not their own”
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47
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
spotlight
The eyes have it...It’s all about the eyes at Aspire Beauty Trading as the company launches a new range of products and treatments aimed at prettifying peepers
With lashes and brows seeing the largest
growth within the beauty industry over
the last 18 months, we take a look at the
newest ranges launched in the region.
“It’s now time to be part of the Lash
and Brow revolution and Aspire Beauty Trading has
many great solutions for salons and spas,” said Claire
Gittus managing direction at Aspire Beauty Trading.
Her new lines includes the Hairwell Eyelash and Eye-
brow tinting, Love Lashes by Mii - Loved by You, Peek
A Boo Lashes and Brows by Mii. Gittus explains the
benefits of each:
Hairwell Eyelash and Eyebrow tintingThese products from Europe are a high quality range
which is competitively priced (starting from only
AED22). The range includes a new shade of light brown
and all our tubes of tint come in 20ml rather than the
normal 15ml and we have a cream developer rather
than liquid, giving a rich intense long lasting colour.
Love Lashes by Mii - Loved by You These handmade silk lashes are durable and reusable and come
in six different formats:
Simply Charming - A naturally delicate hint to keep them guessing
Truly Elegant - Hold your gaze with grace and sophistication
Seductress - Pair with a smokey eye for a smouldering look
Social Butterfly - An unforgettable flutter for every occasion
Drama Queen - Eye opening, jaw dropping and heart stopping
Little Lifts - Mini lash boosters for an elegant flick in an instant
This capsule collection also comes on an attractive stand.
Peek A Boo LashesA lifting treatment for natural lashes. Using a combination of
advanced technology and quality ingredients this professional
treatment lifts the lashes from the root, sets the lashes in the
new lifted position and curls the lashes opening up the eye,
and gives extra volume with a colour boost. This is a fantastic
treatment that takes 60 minutes and lasts 6-8 weeks with no
maintenance and no aftercare.
BROW by MiiA bespoke brow treatment that works in seven steps to create
the perfect brow. From the consultation stage, the client is taken
through a step-by-step service making sure she leaves with perfect
and symmetrical brows, enhancing her natural beauty. To comple-
ment this professional service, we have a collection of finishing prod-
ucts on a eye-catching retail display stand, perfect for any retail area.
For more details call Aspire Beauty Trading on +971 4 347 8055 / 971 50 468 6406
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
49May 2016
INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
HAI
RDRE
SSER
S JO
URN
ALIN
TERN
ATIO
NAL
STROBING AND TEXTURE TAKES CENTRE STAGE THIS SPRING
STYLES AND COLOURS FOR ANOTHER WORLD
HOW TO CAPITALISE ON YOUR RECEPTION AREA
Note from the Editor
Research shows it takes just seconds for
someone to decide what they think about
you – whether they think you are friendly,
professional, rude or unapproachable. First
impressions can make or break a business, and creating
a good one is easier than you think. It all starts with
the service you offer before the client has even stepped
through your door – the tone of the receptionist on the
phone; the eye-catching window display and the design
of your website. With so many salons on the high street
it’s essential you stand head and shoulders above the
competition and ensuring clients feel welcomed by a
friendly team is guaranteed to attract a new clientele. Never
underestimate your front of house team. But
it doesn’t stop there – the layout of
your salon should mean it’s an easy
client journey, retail should be accessible
and a friendly junior can make all the
difference. Think you are offering all of
this? Why not get a friend to act as a client
and give feedback on their experience?
Or take the client journey yourself? The
reception area is the most used area in the
salon so it’s worth investing time, money
and attention on this important zone.
Thanks,
Ruth
Individual Player
FirstImpressionFeminine Spirit
50 May 2016 hji.co.uk
For your beauty, hair andspa business
www.professionalbeauty.ae
For your beauty, hair and spa business
March 2016
GCC
Our guide to spring nails
Greatest of gatheringsWhy Professional Beauty 2016 was the place to be
The shape of things to come
Gain inspiration for the new season in our HJ special
Creative cuts
Are Haute Couture products the future of beauty?
madetomeasure
May 2016
REFRESH & REVAMP
Is it time to redesign your spa?
First impressionsHow welcoming is your reception?
Just the businessThe story behind truly bespoke spa menus
nailnittygrittynittygrittynittygrittynittyThe technology behind nail polish
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STROBING AND TEXTURE TAKE CENTRE STAGE THIS SPRING
INDIVIDUALplayers51May 2016
“Add lightness and depth with a palette of watercolour shades and then mess it up with the latest mineral formulas. It’s all about individuality and playfulness.” JAMIE STEVENS
52 May 2016
HAIR: MATRIX GLOBAL DESIGN TEAM
53May 2016
EXCLUSIVE CONTENT FROM
HJ UK :
54 May 2016 hji.co.uk
FEMININE SPIRIT
STYLES AND COLOURS FOR ANOTHER WORLD
55May 2016
56 May 2016 hji.co.uk
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58 May 2016 hji.co.uk
“We wanted to showcase an eclectic mix of bold and delicate
colours which collide with soft dreamy textures. The energy
is feminine, unpredictable and elegant with a ghostly spirit.”
ROYSTON BLYTHE
59May 2016
60 May 2016 hji.co.uk
HAIR: ROYSTON BLYTHE AND CHARLES DOUEK AT ROYSTON
BLYTHE, SHREWSBURYPHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD MILES
61May 2016
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64business trends
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
Among the myriad decisions to be made when
opening a spa, crafting the perfect treatment
menu is arguably one of the most important.
Location, facilities and the clientele drive
the direction of the menu and the higher the
level of differentiation, the greater the chance of a
spa’s success. Yet in a place like Dubai, where there is
an abundance of five and even six star hotels, boasting
spectacular spas, offering something unique can be a
challenge to say the least.
Following her success steering the opening of The
Four Seasons' Pearl Spa at Jumeirah Beach Dubai,
director of spa, Hayley Bluett was tasked with
overseeing the opening of the hotel chain’s new spa
in DIFC a smaller, five-treatment room facility aimed
primarily at business travellers. When sourcing brands
to work in partnership with the spa, she was certain
that she wanted a brand that could offer a truly
bespoke and original treatment menu.
Just the businessAs the spa at the new Four Seasons in Dubai’s Financial Centre opens, Fiona Vlemmiks discovers what it takes to create the perfect bespoke spa menu
“It is paramount to have bespoke treatments in a spa
menu. This is our differentiator,” she says. “The pursuit
of differentiation and guest enrichment were both
catalysts for our profound spa wellness journey. It is
now widely acknowledged that ‘differentiation’ is
critical in determining the industry's winners and in
gaining a loyal customer base.”
Since Bluett was also looking for a brand that
mirrored the Four Seasons' ethical stance on sustain-
ability African brand Terres d’Afrique was deemed the
perfect fit, “We chose Terres d’ Afrique as the compa-
ny ties in so well with our Four Seasons philosophy,"
Bluett explains. “The brand is organic and the company
believes in sustainability.
“Aiming to be carbon neutral is the basis of their
operations, an ideal they aim for in every decision that
they make, principally thinking ethically and working
sustainably. They believe in fair trade, by doing
this, Terres d’ Afrique accelerates job creation,
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spa focus
improves and transforms the livelihood of so many and
uplifts communities. Interestingly, it also has a positive
impact on the environment.”
The making of a menuThe spa at DIFC is positioned as an authentic lifestyle
spa with a sleek and contemporary design and
houses five treatment rooms including a couples’
treatment room. The first step in the menu creation
was for Helary to consider the spa’s demographic,
location, philosophy and goals before marrying these
with relevant treatments and products.
Bluett says “Stephan from Terres d’Afrique carefully
hand picked all the ingredients for our bespoke
treatments. He created three distinctive treatment
selections, tailored to our guest demographic.
We have called these The Four Seasons Elements:
"Recharge, Revitalise and Release". By choosing
treatments under these selections, the guest will
embark on a spa journey tailored to their every need.
He also created our Signature Massage, called
The Signature Blue Tigers Eye Massage, we use a
combination of warm and cool Blue Tigers eye crystals
and use a very special signature tool which smoothly
and firmly glides over every contour of the body,
releasing blocked energy and soothes away aching
muscles.”
In total, 16 different treatments were created
exclusively for the new spa and to further add to the
spa’s drive for differentiation, several products were
also created.
“With many spas in Dubai providing similar products
due to the very rigid registration laws, the strength
of our proprietary product ranges and our
bespoke treatments are the determining factor in our
competitive position,” explained Bluett.
“It is very important to create a truly unique holistic
and rejuvenating wellness experience for our spa
guest, we do this by adding exclusive products and
treatments to our service offerings.”
The spa, which opened in March, is now, it seems,
reaping the rewards of such careful product and menu
selection.
“Our spa guests have been very receptive to
the brand, says Bluett. “Our customer base is very
wellness-focused, they have a genuine interest in
living a healthy lifestyle – health and wellness is a
major life focus for them. They too are driven by
sustainability, authenticity and seek local sources
that embrace holistic and integrated approaches to
health. They take a keen interest in environmental and
sustainability issues, they recognise that personal,
social, and planetary well-being are all interconnected.
That is why the brand is doing so well here. They would
rather opt for a brand that has a very strong focus on
these principles than a brand that does not.” PB
For more information on Terres d’Afrique please
contact The Product House +971 4 379 19 66
business trends
Forward has definitely helped them achieve this lofty
aim. “EIDEAL is a high-end lifestyle brand that people
in the region are starting to recognise and relate to,”
says Eid. “We try to be selective when it comes to the
events that we participate in, however when the right
opportunity knocks, we grasp it without any hesitation
and this was certainly the case with Fashion Forward.”
Indeed, as Eid acknowledges, EIDEAL’s presence
at Fashion Forward has shed light on the brand and
enhanced its reputation among key media, influencers
and also professional hairstylists. “Our presence back-
stage raised awareness amongst notable people within
the beauty industry,” says Eid. “In fact, a lot of
journalists were intrigued by all of the hairstyles and
were interviewing the senior hairstylists backstage.
Since EIDEAL’s tools were the only ones being used,
the brand got great coverage on shows such as Style
by Aline Watfa on MBC.” g
Fashion Forward Fall/Winter 2016 took
place last month at the very trendy Dubai
Design District. As ever, the event was well
attended by the region’s top fashion media,
bloggers, influencers and fashionistas and
was a fabulous platform for its carefully selected part-
ners to enhance their brand profile.
One such partner was EIDEAL who was named as
the exclusive premium hair tools sponsor of Fashion
Forward’s seventh season. The EIDEAL tools were
being used backstage in all halls to create and bring
the hairstyles the fashion designers had in mind to life.
“The collaboration started last year, when EIDEAL
was contacted by Fashion Forward and we were invit-
ed to be the official hair tools sponsor of season six,”
says Haysam Eid, managing director of EIDEAL. “Due
to last year’s successful partnership, and since Fashion
Forward is the most anticipated fashion event in the
region, we decided to also take part in it this year.
Since its launch, EIDEAL has worked hard to establish
itself as more than just a brand of hair tools and
participating in high-profile events such as Fashion
Professional Beauty discusses the business benefits of partnering with events such as Fashion Forward with EIDEAL’s Haysam Eid
Fashion forward
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71business trends
As part of its partnership with Fashion Forward,
EIDEAL’s presence is usually supported by a video
that plays on all of the event’s screens and which
showcases the brand’s latest beauty campaign, some-
thing that Eid admits is a really useful marketing tool.
“We grasped the bloggers’ attention through our
video which definitely triggered their interest about
EIDEAL because it was more a beauty/fashion
campaign rather than a commercial about hair tools,”
says Eid. “This video is perfectly in sync with Fashion
Forward’s fashionable and trendy vibe and this is one
of the main reasons why EIDEAL and Fashion Forward
are so compatible.”
Eid believes that offering the brand’s partner salons
the opportunity to be involved in one of the UAE’s
most recognisable events enables them to forge even
stronger partnerships. “Our salon partners really
appreciate our participation at such events. They feel
proud and reassured that they are indeed with the
right partners. It warms our heart to hear their posi-
tive feedback and encouragement. We also like to get
them involved with us whenever there’s a chance. In
addition to this, we make sure to invite them to the
event for us to share the success together.”
Although most of the professional hairstylists
working backstage were already familiar with EIDEAL
and loyal to it, thanks to Fashion Forward, EIDEAL
has forged new relationships with salon professionals.
“Those who were not familiar with EIDEAL really loved
the brand and will definitely start using it,” says Eid.
“We are already in touch with the new salons that were
introduced to EIDEAL at Fashion Forward and they are
in the process of becoming our salon partners. Our ad
in the Fashion Forward booklet also definitely played
a major role since everyone had it in hand to check the
schedule and sponsors.”
Being part of an event such as Fashion Forward
also allows the young brand to push its boundaries.
“Getting involved in such events takes EIDEAL to a
new level especially when it comes to the scope of our
work,” says Eid. “We always like to step up our game
and stay ahead. Our participation in such an event
definitely allows us to do so.”
Hot on the heels of its Fashion Forward
success, EIDEAL is lined up to showcase at the
forthcoming Beautyworld Middle East (BWME),
due to take place from 15 -17 May in Dubai. “At
BWME, we will be launching new products and we
will be introducing a major brand to the region,
which I am sure will be a big hit within the industry,”
says Eid. “This year, our stand cannot but
attract the visitors. We worked really hard on
the unique design and I am sure that it will grasp
everyone’s attention. It is not to be missed! We
are also going to spice things up and do some-
thing that we had never done during our previous
participations.”
And participation in BWME is not the only exciting
venture that the ambitious brand is planning. “We are
in the process of organising a really huge programme
that will be taking place for the first time ever in the
Middle East and which will target the professional
hairstylists’ community,” says Eid.
With so much happening, it’s not surprising
this innovative brand is popping up on the hair
industry radar. PB
For more information visit www.eideal.com
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
This month we tried...Kerasilk Repower Treatment at Orchid Beauty Boutique, Sharjah Ladies Club & Gloss, DubaiThe lowdown: Kerasilk is a new premium line
of products and treatments from Goldwell. The
treatments can be customised to meet the individual
needs of each client, with the range split into four
key categories: Repower, Control, Reconstruct
and Colour. Repower is designed to volumise hair,
Control to smooth and reduce frizz, Reconstruct
to repair damaged or poorly conditioned hair and
Colour to enhance the shine and longevity of colour-
ed hair. Utilising high-end ingredients, the treatments
can last up to 10 washes when combined with using
the recommended retail range at home.
PB says: My treatment begins with a consultation,
in my case by Claude, the head trainer for Madi
International, but normally a hairdresser would do
the assessment. After discussing my haircare routine
and any concerns I have, Claude examines my hair
before prescribing a Repower treatment. Although
she notes that I have some frizziness and a little
dryness at the ends, the main concerns lie with the
fineness and lack of body in my hair. The Repower
range incorporates keratin and elastin which will add
body to my hair; furthermore it has Procapil™ and
t-Flavanone to add density and strength. Following
the consultation my hair is washed using the Repower
Volume Shampoo, next the Repower Intensive
Volume Treatment is applied using a brush and with
the majority of the product directed towards the root
and top half of my hair before being combed through
to the ends. This is left on for between 10-20 minutes
before being rinsed from my hair and the Repower
Volume Intensifying Post Treatment applied. The stylist
then blast dries my hair, applying a Repower Volume
Blow Dry Spray before styling and finishing the blow
dry. A final spritz of finishing spray is used before the
dramatic results are revealed. Not only does my hair
boast incredible volume but it feels delightfully soft
and looks super shiny. For such a quick treatment
I’m impressed by the amount of body that has been
injected into my hair, which also feels bouncy and
lightweight. I continue using the Repower Shampoo at
home and my hair retains the shine, softness, improved
density and body – though not quite the same height.
I get to experience this same treatment twice,
just a few weeks apart, with different stylists and
the Repower range is used both times – as the
requirements for my hair haven’t changed – and it
provides a great opportunity to identify any slight
differences in how my hair looks or feels.
Encouragingly, the treatment process is identical,
and in terms of texture and volume, my hair is also
the same. The only significant difference comes
in the actual blow-dry styling, with each stylist opting
for their own take on the finished look.
All in all a fabulous hair makeover in a short timeframe.
Tested by: Zoe Moleshead
Perfectly polished
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This month we tried...
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75treatment news
Signature Manicure at Kure Beauty and SpaThe lowdown: Giving a new take on the concept of
a manicure, Kure has customised its nail treatments
by introducing sumptuous nail oils that are designed
to hydrate nails and cuticles leaving them silky and
refreshed. Furthermore, the oil is selected based on
the time of day of your treatment.
PB says: Both a spa and a retail outlet, Kure is
dedicated to using [and retailing] only organic or
natural products. All its treatment utilise products
of this origin or Kure’s own handmade essential oils.
Entering the spa, I’m struck by the design of the
space. The colour palette is delightfully neutral with
less than a handful of colours evident, the area looks
incredibly clean and fresh, the overall ambience
feels very fitting for a spa whose premise is centred
around natural and organic elements. My therapist
explains to me that they use five different oils in nail
treatments, with the time of day dictating the oil that
is used. Among the oil choices are Wake Up, Energy,
D-Stress, Basic and Blow Away – the latter of which is
selected for me as I’m visiting the spa late afternoon
/ early evening. Blow Away has an almond oil base
and is blended together with rose oil, it is designed to
reinvigorate, revitalise and refresh after a hectic day.
The oil’s aroma is subtle and pleasant and it is infused
throughout the creams or products that are used in
the nail treatment.
The nail polishes are by Smith and Cult, a range
which Kure founder Myriam Sarfati tells me she
sought long and hard to find, and are five-free,
meaning they have been formulated without dibutyl,
phthalate, toluene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde
resin and camphor. The therapist helps me to se-
lect a colour asking whether I am looking for a light
or dark shade, I opt for a colour that looks like a
soft beige in the bottle, but on the nail provides an
almost transparent finish, it’s a near-perfect match for
my natural nail colour, and exactly what I was looking
for. The Smith and Cult polishes, I’m told, were also
chosen for their long-lasting results, something
which can be more challenging to achieve with
five-free ranges. The therapist has a decidedly gentle
touch as she carries out the manicure and this is echoed
in her light-handedness in tending my cuticles, trim-
ming away only the smallest amounts. The treatment is
relaxing and pleasant and the finish exactly what I was
looking for. Days later the polish is holding true to its
word, remaining unchipped and in tact. Impressed
with the results, I’d certainly be happy to return,
probably at a different time of day to experience one
of the other oils.
Tested by: Zoe Moleshead
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product news
Check out our top product picks and new launches for May
Cream of the crop
Quattro gThe QP-10 professional cordless hair trimmer
promises to take hair styling to the next level.
The ultra-close 0.3mm cutting feature with a sharp
accuracy blade can create many patterns and
designs. The trimmer is comfortable to use thanks to its
featherlight weight and ergonomic design and you can
select your favourite colour out of the eight available.
Call + 971 4 338 27 73
Omorovicza fThe Gold Night Drops work in three stages to resurface wrinkles, repair and
strengthen, and hydrate and nourish the skin at night when skin is most
receptive to healing. The star ingredient is gold, a powerful anti-inflammatory
that repairs accumulated micro-damage and strengthens the skin. Other
active ingredients include Vitamin A (encapsulated retinol) to resurface
fine lines and wrinkles and vitamin C to brighten, tone and help reduce the
appearance of age spots. The product also contains Omega 6 Ceramide to
retexture the lipid matrix for a stronger barrier function and the patented
Hydro Mineral Transference system which delivers minerals to leave skin
firmer, more supple and younger-looking.
Call +971 4 379 19 66
Eminence gRosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil is a nourishing, hydrating and firming
facial oil designed for all skin types. It can help to increase collagen
production, reduce inflammation and soothe the skin. The oil is
packed with botanical sources of vitamins C and E, including rosehip,
jojoba and seabuckthorn oils, which help to fight against free radicals
caused by UV exposure and the effects of glycation.
Call +971 4 220 60 24
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product news
Zoya gThe nail brand has unveiled its spring collection
which includes a range of pretty colours inspired
by seasonal florals. Laurel and Azalea are shades
of pink, while Zahara is a shimmering coral with
an opalescent effect and Tulip a pastel salmon
cream. Finally Aster is a periwinkle-inspired colour
with flecks of fuchsia, and Leia is an opalescent
white with hints of fuchsia, green and gold. All the
polishes are five-free and vegan-friendly too.
Call +971 4 220 60 24
Carol Joy fFor Ever cream is a rich, anti-ageing moisturiser that is potent yet
nourishing. It intensively hydrates, plumping fine lines and wrinkles
for a smoother, radiant complexion with refined Golden Millet Oil that
regenerates the epidermis, boosts moisture, and protects the skin's
barrier. The product’s Peptide Collagen Booster also helps stimulate
collagen, diminishes lines and firms. For Ever cream is suitable for all
skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin.
Call + 971 4 379 19 66
Gharieni gWith a large storage-space integrated
into the base of the table, the new
Gharieni MLW Space can stow two
hot-cabins, towels, blankets and
much more. Like all other Gharieni
MLW models, the spa table is tech-
nically well-equipped, the two lifting
columns adjust the height and also the
angle of inclination up to the “Trendelen-
burg” position, a “zero-gravity” angle
offering optimal relaxation. The bed
is equipped with soft PU upholstery
and synthetic leather upholsteries
are also available in a variety
of colours and a wide range of decors
to enable you to design your MLW
Space to fit perfectly into your studio
or spa.
Call +971 4 276 67 34
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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
product news
Liane K gThe VL1 Oxygen Filler is a new method and device, introduced by
Liane K, to create silky, shiny hair. A layer of oxygen is applied on
the scalp and hair, followed by a delivery of protein and collagen,
providing a solution to hair loss, dandruff, split ends and damaged
hair in just 15 minutes.
The VL1 Oxygen Filler method allows hairdressers to give enhanced
results when used in combination with cutting and styling, colour,
de-colouration and other services. To see for yourself, book an
in-salon demo.
Call +971 4 441 88 74
Cloud Nine gThe O is a ground-breaking innovation in professional
styling, creating incredible volume in an instant.
The O Pod heats up the soft-grip rollers in less than
four seconds and thanks to the unique induction
technology, the rollers heat from the core. The rollers
get hot in the hair, not in your hand, allowing you to
position the rollers precisely and easily and creating
hair that’s full of body, volume and texture.
Call + 971 4 338 27 73
Kerstin Florian fThe Organic Neroli Blossom Bath and Body Oil employs essential oils to uplift
and renew the spirit. Neroli and rosemary combine in this lightweight blend,
which also contains organic coconut, jojoba, meadowfoam and sunflower oils
to deeply nourish and soften the skin. Derived from the fragrant petals of the
Bitter Orange Blossom, Neroli has long been valued in aromatherapy for its
calming and relaxing scent, which eases anxiety, depression and the stress
response as well as insomnia, heart palpitations and digestive issues.
Call +971 4 379 19 66
Professional Beauty GCC May 2016
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diary dates
SEND US YOUR DATESSend us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú [email protected]
Diary dates12-13 JUNEPROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBANDurban ICC, Durban, South AfricaProfessional Beauty turns its focus to Durban this month, with the second of its three annual South African shows taking place. This event will provide a fantastic platform to network and source suppliers. Alongside a Vibrant Retail Area, exhibitors will be showcasing products ranging from skincare, equipment, software, nails, make-up, tanning and much more. www.probeauty.co.za/
Don’t miss...
professionalbeauty.ae
1-3 JUNECOSMOBEAUTÉ MYANMARNovotel Yangon Max, Yangon, MyanmarNow entering its third year, the latest edition of this event is moving to a new location, which has been selected for its enhanced facilities and convenience, and close proximity to the airport. Drawing exhibitors from across the globe, the show will once again be targeting beauty salon and spa owners.www.cosmobeauteasia.com/ index.php/myanmar
3-5 JUNEINTERNATIONAL MAKE-UP ARTIST TRADE SHOW - LONDONOlympia National, London, UKBringing together international make-up artists, this show combines education, demonstrations and an exhibition, with many leading artists from fashion and film showcasing their talents. Adding to the engaging line-up for this event is a student competition – Battle of the Brushes, and a Make-Up Museum.www.imats.net/2016-london/
8-9 JUNECOSMETIC BUSINESSMOC Munich, Munich, GermanyThis exhibition features around 400 suppliers whose focus ranges from raw materials to manufacturing and packaging of cosmetics. A specialist professional programme will also offer lectures designed to inspire the product creation process.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair/en
8-11 JUNENATURALTECHBienal do Ibirapuera, Sao Paulo, BrazilFocusing on natural products for the beauty, health, food and sport sectors, the exhibition is open exclusively to trade visitors on the first two days, while the latter two days are also open to the public.www.naturaltech.com.br
9-10 JUNEMAKEUP IN PARISCarrousel du Louvre, Paris, FranceSuppliers and trendsetters unite for this event showcasing the latest innovations in the make-up world. Products and advice will be offered on everything from ingredients and pigments to formulation and packaging. Special B2B networking events will also take place over the two days.makeup-in-paris.com/paris-en/
25-27 JUNEINTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW, LAS VEGASLas Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, USTargeting salon owners, managers and beauty professionals, this show brings together over 350 exhibitors displaying their latest and greatest products. An educational programme featuring free classes, hands-on workshops and masterclasses runs alongside the show, as do a series of competitions for nails, hair and lashes. www.ibslasvegas.com/