purple 20energy 20book
TRANSCRIPT
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Contents
Introduction
You and Your Electric Service ........................................................ 2
How to Read Your Electric Meter.................................................. 3
What Causes a High Electric Bill?................................................. 6
Air Conditioning & Heating ........................................................... 7
Water Heating ................................................................................. 12
The Energy Guide Label ................................................................ 14
Household Appliances .................................................................... 16
How to Calculate Energy Use ....................................................... 21
Lighting Tips ...................................................................................... 21
Things that Affect Your Electric Bill ............................................... 23
Insulate Today .................................................................................. 26
Safety ................................................................................................ 29
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Introducton
Managing energy use is important for you, as a Clay Electric member.
If you understand where your energy dollar is going, you can have controlover how much electricity you use. Effective energy management will saveyou money – as much as hundreds of dollars a year off your electric bills!It also helps reduce the overall demand for power, which is good for theenvironment.
This booklet is full of tips and suggestions to help keep your electricbill under control. In the typical Florida home, the three largest energy us-ers are the heating/cooling system, water heater and refrigerator/freez-er. These subjects are covered first and in more detail since the possibilityof energy savings is the greatest.
Take some time to read through this booklet and see what informationfits your home and lifestyle. If you have any questions about the informa-tion or about your specific situation, call your local district office.
And, if you would like a presentation on energy efficiency, safety or
other topic for your church, group or organization, you may call your dis-
trict member relations representative at the phone number below.
Gainesville District Office8616 N.W. 39th AvenueGainesville, FL 32606-5673(352) 372-8543
Keystone Heights District OfficeP.O. Box 308State Road 100 WestKeystone Heights, FL 32656-0308(352) 473-4917
Lake City District Office
1910 S.W. Main BoulevardLake City, FL 32025-9192(386) 752-7447
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Orange Park District Office734 Blanding Blvd.Orang Park, FL 32065-5798(904) 272-2456
Salt Springs District OfficeP.O. Box 5500County Road 316Salt Springs, FL 32134-5500(352) 685-2111
Palatka District Office
300 N. State Road 19Palatka, FL 32177-2498(386) 328-1432
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You and Your Electric Service
The first thing you need to understand on your quest for energy efficiency is
the electric bill. Find your current electric bill, or a previous one, and take a look
at it. The bill is itemized and shows exactly what you’re paying for.There is a charge for electricity used based on your rate schedule (resi-
dential, etc.), a customer charge for service, power cost adjustment, taxes that
are collected and forwarded to state or local governments and sometimes other
charges. The largest item, though, is usually the charge for energy used.
The amount of energy used is determined by two basic ingredients: the elec-
trical requirements of appliances in your home (watts) and the length of time you
use the appliances (hours). The bill is calculated in kilowatt hours. To understandwhat a kilowatt hour is: a 100-watt light bulb burning for 10 hours will register
on your meter as 1,000 watt-hours or one kilowatt hour. (100 X 10 = 1,000
watt-hours or 1 kWh).
The total kilowatt hours used each month is multiplied by the current cost per
kilowatt hour and makes up the energy charge of the bill. The number of kilowatt
hours is broken down for you into an average used each day. Plus, a boxed
section on the bill allows you to compare your kilowatt hour consumption for last
month, and last year, to this month’s use.
To save money on your
electric bill you must do
one of two things, either
reduce the wattage of
the appliances you use or
reduce the number of hours
you use each appliance.
It’s that easy. However,
since you can’t adjust
the wattage of appli-
ances, the easiest way to
reduce your energy bill
is to purchase energy
efficient appliances when
shopping for new ones,and control the amount
of hours you use each
appliance.
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How to Read Your Electric Meter
Every family has its own lifestyle and its own energy needs. Trying
to get the most from your energy dollar without causing discomfort orchanges in your family’s lifestyle is a challenge, but can be well worthsome extra effort.
One way of controlling energy costs is by budgeting kilowatt hour use.Learning how to read your meter will let you keep track and record howmuch electricity you’re using from day to day and month to month.
Follow these four easy steps to learn how to read your meter and
budget your family’s electricity use:STEP 1
Estimate the amount of money you can afford to spend for electricityeach month. Remember that electricity use varies from season to seasondepending on heating and cooling needs. Then determine the number ofkilowatt hours (kWh) you can afford to use. Your district office can tell youhow much a certain amount of kWh will cost.
STEP 2Divide the desired monthly amount of kWh by the number of days in
the month and you get a daily average. For example, if you decided youcould afford 1,200 kWh per month and there were 30 days in the month,your daily average use should be 40 kWh.
STEP 3Learn how to read your meter if you don’t already know. Begin daily
readings at the same time of day. For example, read your meter dailyat 8 a.m., 10 a.m. or whatever time is convenient for you. However, it’simportant that the meter is read about the same time each day so you’llknow exactly how much electricity has been used during the 24-hourperiod.
Here’s how to read your meter:Read each dial from right to left. Some dials go clockwise and some
counterclockwise, so the numbers are reversed from dial to dial. The dial
hand rotates in the direction of the increasing numbers. Write down thenumber last passed by the dial hand. For example, if the dial hand haspassed 5 but is not yet to 6, read that dial as 5. Write down the numberfrom each dial from right to left. Practice on examples 1 and 2 on thenext page.
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Example 1. 8705 kilowatts
On some four dial meters it is necessary to multiply the reading by10. This is indicated by “X 10” on the face of the meter.
Example 2. 43894 kilowatts
Which number do you record if the dial hand is pointing directly tothe number? For example, in the above illustration, the dial hand secondfrom the left is pointing to the four. Would you record the 4 or the 3? Inthis case, you’d record the 3. Why? Because the dial hand in the dial to
the immediate right has not made a complete rotation. If the dial hand onthe right (third from the left) was past the zero or near the 1, the correctnumber for the dial (second from the left) would be the 4.
Example 3. 05049 kilowatts
STEP 4Now that you’re familiar with how your electric bill is set up and have
learned how to read your electric meter, you’re ready to start chartinghow much electricity you’re using from day to day.
Use the chart on the next page to record your daily meter readings
and calculate whether you are within your allotted energy budget or not.If you need to reduce your daily kWh total, try reducing your use of theappliances that consume the most electricity.
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DAILY ENERGY USE CHART
Date
Daily
Reading
kWh
Use Daily
Desired
kWh Use/Day
+/- Desired
kWh Budget
Don’t wait until you get your electric bill to find out how much electric-ity you used last month. Using the chart above for a few months will helpyou get a feel for what uses the most energy in your home and how thatenergy use can be reduced.
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What Causes a High Electric Bill?
More than 69% of a normal electric bill goes to air conditioning/
heating and water heating. These are the areas you need to look at firstand will provide the most opportunities for saving money. Appliances andlighting use less energy but there are ways to save there also.
A typical breakdown of a Floida residentail electric bill (for a family of four)
46% – Air Conditioning/HeatingThis bill can be greatly increased by the following factors:
• Weather (hot or cold days/nights)
• Leaks in the duct system• Poor insulation
• A summer air conditioning setting cooler than 78°
• A winter heating setting warmer than 68°
• Unshaded large windows on east or west sides of house
• Faulty equipment
• Poor system design
• Dirty filters, evaporator or condenser coils
• Poor weatherstripping
23% – Water HeatingThis bill can be greatly increased by:
• Leaks and wasteful use
Most high electric bills are not caused by the following:
14% – Refrigerator/FreezerThis bill can be increased by:
• Leaky door seals and frequent opening of doors
4% – DryerThis bill can be increased by:
• Clogged lint filter
• Drying partial loads
5% – Range and Oven
8% – Entertainment Equipment, Lights, Washer, Computer
If you receive a bill higher than normal, start at the top of this list andsee if any of the problem areas listed could be the culprit. You may needa professional to inspect your air conditioning/heating system, ductworkor water heater to find out where problems might be.
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Air Conditoning & Heatng
Your home’s cooling and heating system (HVAC) probably uses moreenergy than any other area of your home. Although the heating seasonin North Florida is relatively short and mild, air conditioning is somethingmost Floridians can’t live without.
Getting the most cooling and heating for your energy dollar is impor-tant. Making sure your home is energy efficient and your HVAC system isin good condition and working properly means your family can be com-fortable, summer and winter.
Air ConditoningAir conditioning is probably the biggest part of your energy bill over
a year’s time. To trim the air conditioning part of your bill, you need to:
• Run it less. Use more efficient temperature settings.
• Repair leaky ductwork. Replace older, less efficient units.
• Turn it off. When no one’s at home.
Run it lessA higher temperature setting is the easiest and one of the most effec-
tive ways to lower your air conditioning use. Every degree makes a big
difference. The thermostat control chart on the next page shows how muchthe setting matters. The recommended setting is 78°. If you prefer to keepyour air conditioning setting at 75°, just a three degree difference, your
An average Florida residental power bill
Appliances & Misc.
7%5%
Lightng
5%Cooking
Refrigeraton 14%
23%
WaterHeatng
46%Air
Conditoning/Heatng
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Thermostat Control Chart
The chart below shows how changing the thermostat setting af-fects energy use. On the cooling side, it shows the cost of keepingroom temperatures above and below 78°. On the heating side, itshows the cost of keeping your thermostat set above and below 68°.
Cooling Heatin
70°
71°
72°
73°
74°
75°
76°
77°
78°
79°
80°
63°
64°
65°
66°
67°
68°
69°
70°
71°
72°
73°8% Less
4% Less
NORMAL
4% More
8% More
12% More
16% More
20% More
24% More
28% More
32% More
20% More
16% More
8% More
4% More
12% More
4% Less
8% Less
12% Less
16% Less
20% Less
NORMAL
air conditioning cost jumps by 12%. To keep your house at 72°, the air
conditioning portion of your bill will jump by 24%.
Living with your thermostat at 78° is something most families canadapt to. A good way to keep everyone comfortable is to use more fansthroughout the home. Ceiling fans can help you feel about 2° cooler thanthe air temperature and cost very little to run, compared to air condition-ing. Make sure you turn the fans off when you leave the room.
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Leaks in your duct system may not be just in your ductwork
1
2
3
4
Air leaks can be in the ductworkitself. There are several places on yourair handler where serious leaks can
develop too.Leaks are found (1) where the airreturn box sits on the concrete floor, (2)between the joints of the air handlerand the air return box, (3) on the topwhere the supply duct is attached ontothe air handler, and (4) through loose-fitting panels on the air handler. Caulk
and seal leaks with a mastic (caulk-ing) compound and fiberglass tape oraluminum-backed foil tape. A trainedair conditioning contractor can inspectyour entire system for duct leaks andrepair them for you.
Make it more ef ficient If you have leaks in your HVAC system ductwork, your air conditioning
costs can be dramatically affected. The most expensive air in your homeis the air traveling through your supply ducts. After all, you’ve just spentmoney to cool, or heat it. It’s simply the worst place for air to leak fromyour home. In a recent study of fifty Florida homes, repairing leaky ductsyielded air conditioning savings averaging 17%, with a high of 44%!
Duct leakage occurs when unintentional holes or gaps exist in the airdistribution system. Central cooling systems use ductwork to circulate con-ditioned air throughout the home. The fan, used to force air through thesupply ducts, can also force air through holes into unconditioned spacessuch as attics.
Or, leaky return air ducts draw air from the outside, attic or crawlspace into the home as they return air to the air handler unit to be cooleddown and redistributed.
Duct leakage needs to be identified and repaired by a qualifiedheating and air conditioning contractor. If you want to do some inspectingyourself to try and locate larger leaks in the ductwork, check the commonleak sites listed on the next page and pictured below.
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Potential supply duct leaks:
• Where the main supply duct connects to the air handler
• Where sections of ductwork are joined with tape
• Where round ducts connect to rectangular ducts
• Where ducts connect to room registersPotential return duct leaks:
• Where the main return air duct attaches to the air handler
• Where the main return air duct attaches to the return air box (awooden structure upon which the air handler sits)
• The return air box itself, along the edges of the box and wherevertwo pieces of wood are joined together
• Hidden leaks that connect the return box to the wall cavity – oftencausing the most problems
Another way to increase the efficiency of your HVAC unit is by replac-ing an older, less energy efficient unit. Newer systems can use as little ashalf the energy of older models.
When shopping for a new system, it’s important to choose a high ef-ficiency unit. Even if a higher efficiency model costs more initially, the unitwill pay for itself over time through savings on your energy bill.
Proper sized systemWhen installing or changing your existing system, correct sizing is
extremely important. An oversized heating system will cost more than nec-essary for equipment and installation. An undersized system will operatecontinually without providing adequate comfort. In either case, an ineffi-cient system wastes energy.
The efficiency of an air conditioning unit is measured by the Sea-sonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The SEER number is available fromthe manufacturer or dealer for each system. The SEER is the total coolingprovided during the cooling season divided by the total watts of electric-ity consumed by the system for the cooling season.
Window unit air conditioners are commonly given an EER number. EERstands for Energy Efficiency Ratio and is similar to the SEER number exceptthat the efficiency rating is based on one hour of the unit’s operationrather than an entire season.
Turn it off When no one is home, consider raising the thermostat setting 5° or
turning the thermostat off. You may wish to install a set back thermostat toturn on the unit at predetermined times so the house will be comfortablewhen family members return. Window AC units should be turned off whenno one is home.
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How Much Money Will a System Cost to Run?
BTU’s
18,000 24,000 30,000 36,000 42,000 48,000 54,000 60,000
7 $632 $843 $1053 $1264 $1475 $1695 $1896 $2107
7.5 590 787 983 1180 1376 1573 1770 1966
8 553 737 922 1106 1290 1475 1659 1843
8.5 520 694 867 1041 1214 1388 1561 1735
9 492 655 819 983 1147 1311 1475 1639
9.5 466 621 776 931 1087 1242 1397 1552
10 442 590 737 885 1032 1180 1327 1475
10.5 421 562 702 843 983 1124 1264 1405
11 402 536 670 804 938 1073 1207 1341
11.5 385 513 641 769 898 1026 1154 128212 369 492 614 737 860 983 1106 1229
12.5 354 472 590 708 826 944 1062 1180
13 340 454 567 681 794 908 1021 1134
13.5 328 437 546 655 765 874 983 1092
14 316 421 527 632 737 843 948 1053
14.5 305 407 509 610 712 814 915 1017
15 295 393 492 590 688 787 885 983
15.5 285 381 476 571 666 761 856 951
16 277 369 461 553 645 737 830 922
16.5 268 358 447 536 626 715 804 894
17 260 347 434 520 607 694 781 867
17.5 253 337 421 506 590 674 758 843
18 246 328 410 492 574 655 737 819
18.5 239 319 399 478 558 638 717 797
19 233 310 388 466 543 621 699 776
Other tips to get the most from your air conditioning include shad-ing windows to keep direct sunlight from warming air conditioned rooms.Shading windows from the outside using awnings, solar film or even treesis the best way to keep heat out of your home. Drapes and shades on theinside of the windows will also help reduce heat gain.
S E E R
This chart will give you an idea of how much it costs annually to oper-ate difference size and SEER rated units. You can also use this chart when
replacing your current unit to determine the approximate saving you couldsee annually by choosing units with more efficient SEER ratings.
To get the exact SEER rating of your existing unit, contact an airconditioning contractor with the model number of your indoor and outdoorequipment. Check the Energy Guide label on equipment installed after
1988.
Based on ARI formula using 2731 annual cooling hours (average for Florida),and 9¢ per kWh. Capacity(Btuh)/SEER x Cooling Hours/1000 x Electric Rate =
Annual Operating Cost.
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Heatng
With heating, try to set your thermostat as low as you can withoutsacrificing comfort. For most people 68° is comfortable, and each degree
over that uses about 4% more energy. Use extra blankets at night andwear extra clothing to stay comfortable. During the day, open drapes totake advantage of solar heat gain and close them at night to help keepheat in.
When replacing your existing unit or building a new home, the electricheat pump is something you should look into. A heat pump is a specialkind of air conditioner designed to provide winter heating as well assummer cooling. When heating, the heat pump is three times more energy
efficient than electric resistance heaters.During the heating season, the heat pump collects heat from the
outside air and brings it inside. The process works because all air containssome heat, even cold winter air. Unlike a conventional furnace that mustconvert electricity or other fuels into heat, the heat pump uses heat thatalready exists in the outdoor air. For this reason, a heat pump usuallycosts less to operate than other forms of heat.
Whatever kind of heating system you have, help keep it runningproperly by cleaning or replacing filters monthly. Clogged filters makeyour system less efficient. Also keep return air grills clean.
Water Heatng
Typically the second largest user of electricity in your home
Next to your cooling and heating system, hot water is the secondlargest item on your energy bill. Washing clothes, washing dishes, washingpeople – your water heater gets a workout every day.
If you can reduce your use of hot water and heat it more efficiently,you can use less energy and water. Some ways to save on your waterheating bill include:
Make sure to keep the return air grill clean so air flow will not beobstructed. Clean or change the filter as soon as it gets dirty because itremoves dirt, dust and other impurities from the air. Tip – check it when-ever you receive your electric bill. A dirty filter will restrict the flow ofair and reduce the efficiency of your air conditioner, increasing the cost of
operation. Keep the outdoor portion of heat pumps and central air condi-tioning systems clear of obstructions that interfere with air flow.
Lights located very close to the thermostat should be avoided becausethey can heat the thermostat and give an inaccurate room temperature.
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Saves hot water to…
Wash full loads
Use mostly cold water for
clothes washing
Fill bath tub only 1/4 full
Fix leaky faucets
Insulate exposed hot water pipes
Reducing Hot Water Use
Wastes hot water to…
Wash few clothes or dishes
Wash or rinse clothes in hot or
warm water
Fill bath tub full
Have a leaky faucet
Have bare hot water pipes
Thermostat setting: Check the thermostat setting on your waterheater, it may be set too high. Many new dishwashers have a tempera-ture boost switch that will internally raise the water temperature to thecorrect level. If your dishwasher has one of these switches, or you don’tuse a dishwasher, your water heater should be set on 120°F. If you use a
dishwasher without a temperature boost, your water heater should be setat 140°.
Insulation: Older water heaters may not have the insulation level ofthe new, more energy efficient models. If your water heater is older, youmay need to wrap it with an insulation jacket. Newer models don’t needto be wrapped unless you feel a warm or hot area on the tank.
Turning it off: If you’re leaving for two or more days, turn your waterheater off. Don’t bother turning it on and off when you’re at home, it will
only produce negligible savings.Repair: Fix leaky hot water faucets promptly. Hot water leaks can
quickly add up, wasting energy and water.
Low volume showerheads: Reduce the flow of hot water from yourfaucets and showers by using aerators and low-flow showerheads. Oldershowerheads allow four or more gallons of flow per minute and shouldbe replaced with showerheads allowing three gallons per minute or less.Since 1988, Florida law has required all showerheads sold or installed to
be lowfl
ow, rated at three gallons per minute or less.Conserve: Wash full loads in your dishwasher and washing machine.
One full load will use less hot water than two partial loads. Look for otherways to use less hot water around your home.
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The Energy Guide Label
When shopping for a new major appliance, it’s important to check the
yellow and black Energy Guide label to see how each appliance com-pares to similar models.
Energy Guide labels are required by the federal government for re-frigerators, freezers, water heaters, dishwashers, washing machines, roomair conditioners, furnaces and central air conditioning systems. The labelsare set up so you can easily compare the annual energy use of eachmodel and select the models that are more energy efficient.
There are different types of Energy Guide labels, depending on the
type of appliance the label is attached to. There are some examples ofdifferent types of Energy Guide labels on the following page.
The first type is the Energy Cost label, used on refrigerators, freezers,water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines. One type of this labelhas a large number in the center giving the total estimated yearly cost torun the appliance based on a given electricity rate. Another type has abar showing the total kilowatt hours per year this appliance uses com-pared to similar models.
Another Energy Guide label is applied on washing machines anddishwashers. Along with the energy efficiency comparison information, itgives two tables at the bottom of the label showing the different costs ofusing an electric or a gas water heater to heat the water used in the ap-pliance.
The Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) label is for room air conditionersand shows the EER rating of the unit in large numbers in the middle of thelabel. The higher the number, the more efficient the unit is. There is also
a bar that shows how the efficiency of this unit compares to others withthe same cooling capacity. At the bottom of the label is a table you canuse to calculate the cost based upon the number of hours you use the uniteach year and the local cost per kilowatt hour.
A generic type of Energy Guide label is placed on furnaces and cen-tral air conditioning system to give you general energy efficiency tips anddirect you to an energy fact sheet that your dealer or manufacturer willhave for each unit. You can use this energy fact sheet to check the energy
costs for the system as used in your geographic location.Clay Electric recommends replacing older, less ef ficient units with
a more ef ficient new model. The most ef ficient models can providesubstantial energy savings over older models. Use Energy Guide labelsto compare the ef ficiency of different units and determine the yearly operating cost.
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Energy Guide labels give you a good look at the energy efficiency
of your appliances.
The different kinds of EnergyGuide labels give you informationso you can easily compare otherappliances to the one you’relooking at. Choose the mostenergy efficient models and you’llsave on your energy bill eachmonth. Energy Guide labels will
be prominently displayed onmajor appliances, furnaces andcentral air conditioning systems.
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Household Appliances
Although most household appliances use lesser amounts of electricity,
wasted energy can add up every month to have a noticeable effect onyour electric bill.
Refrigerator/Freezer: Keep your refrigerator and freezer filled.Food is easier to keep cold than air and a full appliance uses less energy.Don’t open doors unnecessarily and don’t leave the door open. Openingand closing the door one time is equivalent to leaving the door stand-ing open for two minutes. Defrost manual-defrost freezers when frost is aquarter-inch or more.
Recommended temperatures are 38°F for your refrigerator and 5°Ffor the freezer. Stand-alone freezers should be kept at 0°F. When buyinga new refrigerator/freezer, check the energy guide labels carefully andbuy a unit that uses less energy. You’ll save money every month.
Dishwasher: Wash only once a day or when the dishwasher is full.Don’t use the rinse and hold cycle for a few dishes, it wastes hot water.Use the energy-saving switch if your dishwasher has one. Let your dishesair dry. If your dishwasher doesn’t have an automatic air dry switch, just
turn the dishwasher off after rinsing and open the door slightly to help thedishes dry faster.
Washer and Dryer: The energy used for doing laundry can averageeight percent of your family’s total energy bill. Using your washer anddryer more efficiently can cut down on the amount of energy used andalso on hot water use.
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Does it maer how efficient my appliances are?
It sure does! Your refrigerator/freezer, dryer, range and other household ap-
pliances make up about 31% of your monthly energy use. Reducing how much
electricity these appliances use can make an impact on your electric bill.
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Use a lower temperature setting for washing clothes. Use hot only forheavily soiled items and rinse in cold water. Use cold water for most wash-ing, today’s detergents are formulated to wash most fabrics in cold water.
Use the correct water level for the load. You can save a substantial
amount of water by using the proper setting for the amount of clothes inthe load. For best efficiency, wash full loads of clothes, but don’t overload.Washing one large load uses less energy than washing two smaller loads.
When drying your clothes, separate loads into heavy and lightweightfabrics. The lightweight load will dry faster and you’ll use less energy. Ifthe dryer has automatic termination or electronic sensing controls, use theminstead of a time setting, so clothes dry no longer than necessary. Over-drying is not only wasteful, it sets in wrinkles.
Clean lint filter after each use; lint decreases efficiency. Vent dryerto the outside to prevent excess moisture from escaping into the homeand check the vent regularly for lint buildup. You may want to try using aclothes line to avoid the dryer altogether and reap the benefits of freshair and sunshine.
Range: Preheat oven only when baking, if cooking time is critical.For all foods, cook by time and temperature for best results. Use a meat
thermometer when roasting to prevent overcooking and additional energycosts. Use a kitchen timer when cooking. Precise timing prevents loss ofheat through repeated openings of the oven door or by peaking underthe lid during surface cooking.
Consider using a microwave oven to reduce power consumption by upto 75% for the same cooking task done in an electric oven. By using heat-treated glass or ceramic pots and pans in an conventional oven, you may
be able to lower the heat by as much as 25° without sacrifi
cing cookingefficiency.
Energy Use of Appliances: Check the chart on the following twopages to get an idea of how much energy each of your appliances usesa month. The information may inspire you to reduce the use of any un-necessary appliance. For example, if you have an extra refrigerator youseldom use, but keep plugged in, you may be surprised how much electric-ity it uses each month. Reducing the use of your pool pump or hot tub can
also help you save energy each month.
The chart compares energy efficient models to those less efficient soyou can see the difference in operating cost.
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How Much Energy do Household Appliances Use?
The alphabetical list of appliances below will help you understand howvarious electrical devices impact your electric consumption and costs.
PRODUCT
Air purifier (room)Air Handler UV lightsAnswering MachineAquarium air pumpAquarium (50 gallon)a
Battery charger (cordless appliance)
Blanket, Electric*
a5
BlenderBread Maker*b
Bug LightChristmas lights (100-6 watt bulbs)f
Christmas lights (100- .4 watt bulbs)f ClockClock radio4
Clothes Dryer, electric*e
Clothes Dryer, gas*e
Coffee Maker*2
Computer system & PrinterComputer Monitor, 17” CRT3
Dehumidifier*a
Dishwasher (preheat- 4 uses/week)*
DVDElec. Air filter on HVAC unitElec. Fence charger*Fan, atticFan, ceiling (high speed)Fan, portable 20”Fax machine (always on)Freezer, new 16 cu. ft.*Freezer, old 16 cu. ft.*Garage Door opener (4 cycles/day)
Hair curling iron1
Hair drier (14 uses/week)Heater, portable*a
Heating padHot Tub 102°F *Hot Tub 100°F, energy efficient*Iron*Kiln, large*a b
Waage
100
70
10
5
230
6
150
330
350
40
600
40
2
10
5400
700900
150
80
400
1200
60
40
10
400
65
180
43
335
450
500
1000
12001500
60
5520
1500
1100
10000
EST.kWh/MONTH
72.00
50.40
7.20
3.60
82.80
4.32
36.00
0.33
2.80
28.80
54.00
3.60
1.44
1.80
82.62
10.7110.48
108.0
4.80
144.00
10.18
7.20
28.80
7.20
144.00
23.40
64.80
30.96
50.25
97.20
0.50
15.00
5.5290.00
0.24
596.16
108.00
4.00
160.00
EST.Hrs/MONTH
720
720
720
720
720
720
240
1
8
720
90
90
720
180
18
1830
720
60
720
16
120
720
720
360
360
360
720
150
216
1
15
4.660
4
108
72
4
16
EST.Cost/MONTH
$6.48
4.54
0.65
0.32
7.45
0.39
3.24
0.03
0.25
2.59
4.86
0.32
0.13
0.16
7.44
0.960.94
9.72
0.43
12.96
0.92
0.65
2.59
0.65
12.96
2.11
5.83
2.79
4.52
8.75
0.05
1.35
0.508.10
0.02
53.65
9.72
0.36
14.40
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PRODUCT
Lighting, small Mercury Vapor6
Nebulizer1
Oxygen Concentrator6
Microwave oven1
Oven*c
Tool battery chargerRadio4
Range, stove top, small burner*d
Range, stove top, large burner*c
Refrigerator, new 16 cu ft*
Refrigerator, older 16 cu ft*Home Security SystemSeptic tank pumpSkillet, electric*c
Smoke detectorSwimming pool pump, 1 hp5
Telephone charger/answ.machineTivoTreadmill 2 hp1
TV cable boxTV, standard4
TV, projection4
TV, plasma4
TV, standby powerToaster (10 uses/week)Trash compactor (one use/day)Vacuum, centralb
Vacuum, regularb
Vaporizer (3 uses/month)Video, DVDc
Waffle iron*b
Washing machine (8 uses/week)Water bed heater, 90°FWater heater*Well pump, 3/4 hp*1
Wok*b
Waage
175
108
420
800
3500
6
15
1500
2700
300
600
24
400
1250
2
1400
6
28
2000
35150
220
350
20
1100
750
800
1400
30
25
1400
665
375
4500
1500
1000
EST.kWh/MONTH
63.00
1.62
151.20
12.00
15.00
4.32
2.70
4.50
3.56
75.60
151.20
17.28
8.00
7.50
1.44
336.00
4.32
20.16
30.00
25.2027.00
39.60
63.00
10.80
1.43
0.75
3.20
5.60
0.72
0.60
2.80
15.96
72.75
360.00
22.50
1.30
EST.Hrs/MONTH
360
15
360
15
12
720
180
6
4
720
720
720
20
6
720
240
720
720
15
720180
180
180
540
1.3
1
4
4
24
24
2
24
194
80
15
1.3
EST.Cost/MONTH
5.67
0.15
13.61
1.08
1.35
0.39
0.24
0.41
0.32
6.80
13.61
1.56
0.72
0.68
0.13
30.24
0.39
1.81
2.70
2.272.43
3.56
5.67
0.97
0.13
0.07
0.29
0.50
0.06
0.05
0.25
1.44
6.55
32.40
2.03
0.12
1 operating 30 minutes per day2 operating 1 hour per day3 operating 2 hours per day4 operating 6 hours per day5 operating 8 hours per day6 operating 12 hours per day
* cycling (on & off) is taken into accounta 50% cyclingb 1 use per weekc 3 uses per weekd 5 uses per weeke 6 uses per weekf 5 hours per day for 18 days
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How to Calculate Energy Use
The formula below can help you decide which appliances use the most
electricity in your home. Keep in mind that 69% of a normal residentialelectric bill is caused by air conditioning/heating and water heating. Ifyour air conditioning/heating system or water heater is an older model
– replacing them could reduce your energy bill enough so the new unitsactually pay for themselves!
Figuring out the operating cost of specific appliances is not difficultif you have the correct information. Most electrical appliances have thewattage listed somewhere on them. If the wattage isn’t listed, look for theamount of amps and volts the appliance uses and multiply the amps bythe volts to get the amount of watts (amps X volts = watts).
Find out the current average cost per kilowatt hour from either yourdistrict office or from your recent electric bill and estimate how manyhours per month you use each appliance. Then follow this formula:
Lightng Tips
About five to ten percent of the electricity we use in our homes goesinto lighting. Using energy efficient lighting in an energy efficient mannercan help you save substantially on this part of your bill.
The next time an incandescent bulb burns out, replace it with a com-pact fluorescent bulb. Compact fluorescent bulbs are an alternative thatwill save you money every time you use them. The new conpact flourescent
100 wa X 300 (10 hours a day, X 9¢ = Operatng Cost
light bulb 30 days per month) per kWh per month
1,000
100 X 300 = 30,000 ÷ 1,000 = 30 kWh 30 kWh X 9¢ = $2.70
How much does it cost to leave that light burning?
20
wattage per appliance X hours used per monthX averge cost per kWh = operating cost per month
1000
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21
How to save $45.00 on a single lightbulb
Comparing a compact fluorescent (CF) bulb to
an incandescent bulb over 10,000 hours of use
CF Incandescent
Was 15w 60w
Light output (lumens) 900 890
Energy use 150 kWh 600 kWh
Energy cost (at 9¢ kWh) $13.50 $54.00
Lamp life (in hours) 10,000 1,000
Lamp replacements 0 9Cost of replacements 0 $6.75
Original lamp cost $3.00 $.75
TOTAL COST $16.50 $60.75
Y o u c a n s a v e u p t o $ 4 5 f o r e a c h c o m p a c t
fl u o r e s c e n t b u l b y o u u s e !
bulbs combine the best of traditional fluorescent and incandescent bulbs.The compact fluorescent gives off an incandescent bulb’s warm soft light,
and offers the long life and low energy use of a fluorescent light.A compact fluorescent bulb lasts about ten times as long as an incan-
descent bulb, while using only one-quarter of the electricity. These energysavings mean that you will pay less on your monthly energy bill becauseyou will be using electricity more efficiently.
For instance, an 18-watt fluorescent bulb can replace a 60-wattincandescent bulb, using less electricity to produce the same amount oflight. Compact fluorescent bulbs screw into sockets just like regular in-
candescent bulbs. Some light fixtures will not accommodate a fluorescentbulb, although adapters are available that may help.
Because of their advanced technology, compact fluorescent bulbs costmore than incandescent bulbs. The compact fluorescent bulbs range inprice from $3 to $10, but will pay for themselves relatively quickly be-cause they are so energy efficient. To use the lights most effectively, theyshould be placed in fixtures that are on at least two hours a day, such asin kitchens, hallways, stairways or outdoors.
Compact fluorescent light bulbs are available most places whereincandescent light bulbs are sold. Have one on hand to replace the nextincandescent bulb that burns out.
Also use fluorescent tube fixtures wherever possible. Modern fluores-cent tubes normally last much longer than incandescent bulbs – in manycases as much as 12 times longer. In terms of light output, incandescent
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bulbs generally emit about 23 lumens per watt; fluorescent tubes emitabout 80 lumens per watt.
More Lightng TipsSome other practices that can save energy and money are:
• Turn lights off when you leave a room. It’s not true that it takes moreenergy to restart a light than to leave it on for a few minutes. Turn-ing off lights when you leave a room is a good habit to get into.
• Buy bulbs by the light output per watt. Note the expected life ofeach bulb, which is printed on the package.
• Consider installing solid state dimmers or hi-low switches when re-placing light switches. They make it easy to reduce lighting intensity
in a room and save energy.
• Keep all lamps and lighting fixtures clean. Dirt absorbs light.
• You can save on lighting energy through decorating. Remember,light colors for walls, draperies, rugs and upholstery reflect lightand therefore reduce the amount of artificial light required.
• Always turn three-way bulbs down to the lowest lighting level whenwatching television. You’ll reduce the glare and use less energy.
• Light-zone your home. Concentrate lighting in reading and workingareas and where it’s needed for safety. Reduce lighting in otherareas.
• If building a new home, utilize natural light by placing windowsnear work areas wherever practical.
Things that Aff ect Your Electric Bill
Often, it takes real detective work to figure out what is causing highelectric bills. Some things that affect electricity use are simply out of yourcontrol. Extreme weather conditions, such as very hot or cold tempera-tures, will cause higher bills because your air conditioning/heating sys-tem operates more… or perhaps a broken hot water pipe could be the
reason.After reading this booklet you need to walk around your house, ob-
serve everything, and make some decisions about simple things you cando to save energy. Some of the easiest include: turning off lights when notneeded, using compact fluorescent light bulbs when incandescent bulbsneed replacing, lowering your thermostat setting for heating, raising yourthermostat setting for air conditioning, reducing heating and
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23
Look-alikes on the outside, very diff erent on the inside
Even when two houses seem similar, thefamilies inside may use electricity
in completely different ways. Tryto improve your energy use fromyear to year rather than com-paring what your family uses tosomeone else.
air conditioning use when no one’s home and have your heating, venti-lating and air conditioning systems inspected and serviced annually. Thesesuggestions can help you start saving immediately on your energy bill.
When investigating your home and how your family uses electricity,you may try comparing your bill to your neighbor’s. Please don’t, it’s nevera good comparison. Even if houses seem similar in size and construction,many factors can influence electricity use, including:
Orientation of the house
Number of people in the family Energy efficiency of appliances
Energy efficiency of building envelope
Number of appliances in the home
Lifestyles – thermostat settings, lighting levels, etc.
Your own electric bill can also vary from month to month and may becaused by the following:
Seasons of the year
Long billing periods
Changes in normal living conditions
Size of family
Average age of family
Addition or deletion of family members
Changes in living habits Special diets
Guests and entertainment
Vacations
Repairs
Appliances
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New appliances installed
Additional use of older appliances
Defective appliances
Defective wiring
Excessive use of hot water Leaking hot water faucets
Exposure of hot water pipes to outside air
Lack of maintenance (heating, air conditioning, refrigerator)
Clogged filters, dirty coils, water logged pumps, operating pool
pump continuously, frost in refrigerator/freezer
Excessive cooling or heating
Duct leakage Thermostat control setting, improper freon charge in units, thermo-
stat not accurate, fan operating continuously
If you have recently moved and your electric bill goes up or down,here’s some reasons for the change:
Newer or older home or apartment
Larger or smaller than former home
More leakage of air through windows/around doors
Not adequately insulated walls or ceiling
Size of air conditioning/heating unit
More appliances
Home orientation
Lower efficiency of heating/air conditioning system Duct leakage
Use the above lists as a checklist when starting to investigate your en-ergy use. Or, if you get an electric bill that seems higher than normal, goover the lists to see if any of these variables may have affected that bill.
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25
If your house was built before
1980, chances are you need more
insulaton.
Insulate Today
Your home’s “building envelope” is made up of the windows, doors,
outside walls, foundation, floor and roof. This envelope acts as a barrierbetween the outside, unconditioned air and the air inside – which youspend a substantial amount of money heating or cooling.
Good insulation improves your building envelope by increasing itsresistance to heat loss and gain. If your home was built before 1980, youprobably need to add insulation to what was originally installed in thehome. If you are considering building a new home or buying a manufac-tured home, make sure insulation levels are above the minimum standardsand you will enjoy greater energy efficiency throughout the lifetime ofyour home.
R-value is a number that tells how much resistance insulation presentsto heat passing through it. Different insulation materials have different R-values. The higher the R-value, the higher the insulation value.
The following R-values are recommended:
Ceiling ................................................. R-30Outside walls .....................................R-11
Floors over unheated spaces .......... R-19
Use the chart on the next page to see the R-value for different types of insulation commonly used in and around the home.
Older homes usually did not have asmuch insulation installed in them atconstruction as newer homes do. Youneed to check the attic if you havean older home to see how muchinsulation is up there. When addingloose fill insulation to an attic, call an insulation contractor. Addinginsulation yourself is possible, but generally not cost effective.
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Insulaton R-Values for Diff erent Materials
Various
1/2” gypsum or plaster board ............ .45
1/2” plywood (Douglas fir) .................. .62
Carpet and fibrous pad ................... 2.08
Common brick, 4” ................................ .80
81/2” concrete block ......................... 1.04
Air space (3/4”-4”) ................................ .91
Vermiculite .............................. 2.08 per in.
Loose Fill Insulaton
Mineral wool
4” thick .............................................. 11.00
6” to 7” thick .................................... 19.00
10” to 11” thick ............................... 30.00
Fiberglass
5” thick .............................................. 11.00
8” to 9” thick .................................... 19.00
13” to 14” thick ............................... 30.00
Cellulosic ................... 3.13-3.70 per inch
Ba Type Insulaton
Mineral Wool
3” thick .............................................. 11.00
51/4” thick .......................................... 19.00
9” thick ............................................. 30.00
Fiberglass
31/2” to 4” thick ............................... 11.00
6” to
61/
2” thick ............................... 19.00
91/2” to 101/2” thick......................... 30.00
Open and closed cell foam 5.00 per inch
Glass
Single pane (winter) ............................ .88
Double pane (winter) ........................ 1.40
Single pane storm window (winter) 1.56
Double pane storm window (winter) 2.38
Types of InsulationThe three most common types of home insulation are batts and
blankets, loose ill and rigid boards.
Batt and blanket insulation is normally used during initial con-struction. However, it is also excellent for insulating uninished atticloors and rafters or the underside of loors. Both batts and blanketsare made of iberglass or rock wool and come with or without vaporbarrier backing.
Loose ill insulation consists of tufts of iberglass, rock wool orcellulosic iber. It is blown or poured into either a inished or unin-ished attic and sometimes into inished side walls.
Loose ill insulation is especially good for illing irregular spaces.When used for attic insulation, it will cover ceiling supports and pro-vide uniform insulation when installed properly.
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27
Spray-foam insulation seals all cracks and crevices and may beapplied to the underside of the roof in the attic.
Rigid board insulation is made of iberglass or plastic (polysty-rene and polyurethane) or other materials. It comes in 24” or 48”widths with a variety of thicknesses from 1/
4
” to 4”.This type of insulation has a high insulating value for a relatively
small thickness. Polystyrene or urethane rigid board insulationshould be installed only by a contractor and covered with gypsumwallboard to assure ire safety.
Attic InsulationAlthough attic insulation helps reduce both heating and cooling
costs, it’s extremely important in warm climates. You can substan-tially reduce your air conditioning bill by adding insulation to anattic that has none, or very little. The recommended insulation levelis R-30, and R-19 is the minimum allowed by current Florida EnergyCode.
Adding attic insulation is typically economical and pays for itself in a few years. An insulation contractor can give you an idea of howmuch insulation is presently in your attic and the cost of adding ad-
ditional insulation.
Vapor BarriersA vapor barrier is a material that will not absorb moisture or let
moisture pass through it. Commonly used materials are plastic ilm,metal foil, or asphalt between layers of brown paper.
Never place insulation with an attached vapor barrier over in-stalled insulation that has craft or foil facing without irst cutting slits
in the installed insulation backing.
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Safety
Your home, as well as almost every other home in America today,is filled with labor-saving electric appliances. Used with proper safety
precautions, they save you countless hours of drudgery with nearly 100%safety.
But if common sense safety measures are ignored when using evensmall household appliances, electricity can be dangerous. Electricity isalways seeking the path of least resistance to a ground or the earth, andthat path could be you!
It is critical to know and remember the basic rules of safety when we
use electric appliances. Here are some of the most important safety prac-tices you and your entire family should use:
• Don’t operate or touch a plugged-in kitchen appliance with onehand while the other hand or part of your body is touching a metalfaucet, sink or other metal fixture. This could provide electricity apath to the ground and result in serious injury or death.
• Use three-wire cords and ground fault circuit interrupters on all out-door electrical circuits where your body could provide the electric-ity with a path to the ground.
• Be extremely careful when using appliances in the bathroom. Yourbody could become the link between the appliance and a water orsewer line leading to the ground.
• The same precautions observed in the bathroom apply in the laun-dry room. Be sure laundry room appliances have three-wire cordsand that metal appliance cabinets are bonded to the ground wire
of the electrical circuit.
• Most power tools and other heavier appliances come equippedwith three-wire cords and plugs for use in three-plug groundedoutlets. Using a two-wire extension cord doesn’t allow for ground-ing. This destroys the built-in safety feature of the three-wire plugon the appliance. Don’t invite disaster by shortcutting the three-wiresafety feature of appliances having it.
• If you use a portable generator during an outage, do not connectit to your home’s wiring system unless you properly use a transferswitch installed by a licensed electrician. Without the utilization ofa transfer switch, any generator connected to the home’s wiringsystem could create a very dangerous situation for repair crewsbecause voltage could be back-fed on the power lines.
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For more information on energy efficiency,call your local district office.
P.O. Box 308