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ISSN 1853-9610

Nº74 AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2015MENDOZA’S FREE MAGAZINE

FREEFREE

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MendozaWinery Guide

What to do inMendoza

PinotNoir

THE LOST

CITY OF QUILMES

BIODYNAMIC

WINES

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Issue August - September 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail: mariana@wine-republic.comEditor: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud.Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: publicidad@wine-republic.com, mariana@wine-republic.comDesign: Circlan.com .Gimena Federici - Jona Conti. jona@circlan.com. Printer: Artes Gráficas UNIONContributing Authors: Emilie Giraud, Mariana Gómez Rus y Sofia Elena Illustrations: Donough O’Malley, www.pencilrobot.netOpinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic. www.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

ConTEnTSNews Republic

Exit Polls......................................................................

Down Under Coffee..................................................

Silver Lining...............................................................

Southern Noir

Learning about Pinot Noir .................................

The Cosmos in a bottle

Grabbing biodynamic wines...............................

Wishlist

Biodynamic Wines.................................................

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Cafayate

The wine town of Cafayate, Salta........................

The Lost City

Ruins of Quilmes....................................................

Out & About

Dining out.................................................................

Winery Guide..........................................................

Bars.............................................................................

Maps & More

Useful information................................................

Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria.............

Map of Mendoza City Center..........................

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Katharina - Entre Cielos Restaurant

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Cafayate

The wine town of Cafayate, Salta........................

The Lost City

Ruins of Quilmes....................................................

Out & About

Dining out.................................................................

Winery Guide..........................................................

Bars.............................................................................

Maps & More

Useful information................................................

Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria.............

Map of Mendoza City Center..........................

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nEWS REPUBLIC

Exit PollsThis big election year in Argentina is particularly active as it includes newly introduced primaries. Already residents of Buenos Aires have traipsed 3 times to the poll booths to decide their mayor and still have the provincial and presidential primaries, elections and run-offs to endure. This means your average resident will potentially vote 9 times this year on 9 different dates, all of which are forced marches as voting is compulsory in Argentina. This writer salutes such robust democracy-in-action but also laments the fact that such a rush to the polls has caused a literal landslide in his own wine consumption. The sale of alcohol is strictly forbidden on all election days and already we have endured three days of closed wineries because of the polling. next to repealing the law, imposed apparently to prevent rioting, we can only beseech the locals to get on with it, and restart the flow of alcohol.

Down Under CoffeeMendoza does not lack cafes but it does lack good quality coffee houses with gourmet beans and professional baristas. This is one of the reasons two Australians transplanted themselves here and opened a slice of the thriving Melbourne café world. The newly opened Melbourne Coffee Co offers everything for the coffee aficionado in a welcoming, elegant setting that includes a courtyard with hummingbird. The bustling noise of the traditional Mendoza café is replaced with zen-like tranquility and the layout of the coffeehouse includes private salons for those who want to work or chat in peace. As well as delicious latte and iced coffee they also offer sweet pastries and cakes.

Melbourne Coffee Co. Peru 1136, Tel. 0261 211 2100

Silver LiningA snow storm in late July dumping almost 2 meters of snow on the mountains has caused the usual havoc - stranded tourists and angry truck drivers. However such copiuos amounts of snow has also meant an auspicious start to the ski season which has suffered in recent years from lack of snowfall. The recent blizzards - it snowed for three days non-stop in Las Leñas, has been the best in 5 years and should mean lots of happy skiers on the slopes for most of the season. Resorts like Los Puquios and Penitentes are also reporting abundant snowfall so fingers crossed it is a bumper season. Those stranded tourists and truck drivers will just have to pull out their ski gear and join the party.

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The Pinot noir grape did not have the most auspicious of starts when it arrived in new Zealand 40 years ago. The first sprig was found in a and confiscated by customs. It survived and became known as the Gumboot Clone. The rest is history. From those humble boots, new Zealand now exports 10 million liters of Pinot noir to every corner of the World. Pinot noir is the red grape variety that many producers have chosen to specialize in and that is not by chance. The climate and weather conditions in some areas such as Central otago, in the south island are very suitable

for this grape: cool climates where the grape can mature slowly, great thermal amplitude between day and night that keeps natural acidity, very diverse free draining soil types, hillside vineyards, no diseases nor pests. Martinborough, south of north Island, and Waipara and Central otago are the three areas where it is said Pinot noir was first introduced in two waves in the early 1960s and 1970s. Since then clones of Pinot noir have had several years to adapt. Those early, contraband sprigs were probably “stolen” from the mythical Romanée Conti vineyard “La Tache” in Burgundy and have mutated and developed to the point that they are now considered a nZ clone.

“Those early, contraband sprigs were probably stolen from the mythical Romanée Conti vineyard La Tache in Burgundy.”

All winemakers agree Pinot noir is a very complicated grape to work with mainly because it requires a lot of work. Its thin skin and compact

bunches make it sensitive to diseases and it normally requires a green harvest to ripen evenly and achieve better quality. It also ripens early so it needs to grow in a cool climate area to achieve the right maturity, etc. To sum up, there are more than 200 different clones of Pinot noir that behave differently and produce different results so they require different management techniques. As for winemaking, the grape requires quite a lot of careful attention as well.If grown and controlled correctly, this grape can result in the most subtle, elegant and complex type of wine that will reflect the terroir in which it´s grown. However the less plump and fruitier but complex versions of Pinot noir are not for everyone. A small producer in nord Côte du Rhone once told me that wine consumers evolution for taste normally finishes in Burgundy, meaning that in order to appreciate those wines, one has to drink a lot of all kinds of wine first. And there is no doubt the masters at producing the best Pinot are the vignerons in Burgundy. It is no wonder as this grape has had

Winemaker Sofia Elena goes to New Zealand to learn about Pinot Noir.

SOUTHERN NOIR

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thousands of years of adaptation and generation after generation of vignerons in this region have amassed a lot of knowledge about it.

The region of Central otago, an area with little or non-existent wine culture but only a farming one, with most wineries a little more than ten years old, has already distinguished itself worldwide as an important area for Pinot noir production. I had the chance to work for one of the hidden gems in the area, Burn Cottage winery, an 11 hectare biodynamic vineyard with one of the top Pinot noir producers, Ted Lemon, from Sonoma as head winemaker. He learned all about Pinot noir in Burgundy where he was the first American to manage a domain.

Most of the wineries in the area are small (around 10 hectares), and most own land spread out in different areas surrounding the town of Cromwell, all of them with different characteristics that result in different wines. The aim for most of them is try to understand this grape and its behaviour in order to produce the best Pinot noir. And the comparison with Burgundy is inevitable. Most winemakers there are trying and experimenting different things, such as planting in diverse locations and soil types, using different clones of vines, planting vines on the hills or on terraces, harvesting late or harvesting early among various techniques. And the trials happen also in the winery such as the ones we did which included co-fermentation of different clones, different percentage of whole bunch fermentation, using indigenous yeasts, fermenting at low or high temperatures, using open top stainless steel or wooden cuves fermentation tanks, different levels of extraction using less or more punch downs a day, short or long post-macerations, etc.

What I found remarkable is the freedom with which winemakers experiment and try things and are also open to discuss everything they do. Most of them believe that to achieve quality wine and create a local wine identity in Central otago is a long term investment and that they are in the early stages of finding their own style. But most importantly,

they are open to discussion and not holding any secrets because they believe that the success of others is also their own in helping to promote the region.

“Both Patagonia region and Central Otago find themselves around latitude 45th south”

The scenario for Pinot noir in Argentina is quite different. Since Malbec is our flagship grape, most premium producers are dedicated to making the best and most diverse versions possible. Cabernet Sauvignon is also a grape most consider of great quality. But Pinot is a variety very much in vogue worldwide so new wine regions like Patagonia (particularly San Patricio el Chañar and Alto Valle de Rio negro) that have recently come up in the wine map have decided to focus on this grape. Conditions there seem also suitable for it to adapt, especially due to the cooler climate. Both Patagonia region and Central otago find themselves around latitude 45th south. And the weather and topography is quite similar in both places. Recently there has even been a lot of buzz with some wineries there like Bodega Chacra getting amazing reviews, a winery that has dedicated itself 100% to Pinot noir following the success of other wineries such as noemia and Humberto Canale. Some producers in Uco Valley where the climate is cooler have also taken on the Pinot

noir challenge with winemaker Laureano Gomez, former Salentein winemaker, being one of the best small producers in my opinion. He also had to learn about this grape abroad, in Willamette Valley, Washington State and grew very fond of it. He also claims that it is a complicated variety that needs time to develop and the best versions are the ones that hold their aromas and flavour while in the ageing stage. That means that they will later explode and show all their properties later in time. The most common mistake is too much use of oak for a variety that´s very subtle and delicate.

Everyone agrees that this grape is still in the process of research and adaptation in Argentina and there is still a lot of work to do. Most believe a key factor to achieve a great quality wine that can compare to their French versions, is to learn from the best producers at the best sites where Pinot has had years to evolve. The choice of a proper site for it to grow is essential and then a lot of time and work has to be invested to learn how it is adapting to the terroir it has been introduced in. once a good quality fruit has been achieved, it also demands a lot of attention and control in the vineyard and the winery. Then, just then, we might produce a Pinot that will raise eyebrows in Burgundy and new Zealand.

Central otago - Pinot noir vineyards - new Zealand

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“A new Age trend in Paris restaurant”, “Heavy metal “, “Biological dynamite“

When I asked my friends what was biodynamics, these were just some of their creative answers. The father of biodynamics, Rudolf Steiner, also brought the imagination to another level when describing his philosophy. He claims that eating potatoes is one of the factors that turned humans materialistic and doesn’t hesitate to compare the bladder of a deer to the cosmos. You might be inclined to dismiss his theories as the thoughts of a far-fetched lunatic.

However some 500 professional wine producers worldwide have followed his teachings when making wine and have won accolades for doing so. Steiner was an Austrian scientist and philosopher from the 1920’s known for having set the basis of Anthroposophy, a spiritual-scientific approach which aims to restore harmony between the human and the universe. In 1924, after meeting a group of farmers worried by the development of chemical agriculture, Steiner

THE COSMOS IN A BOTTLE

gave eight lectures calling for a more natural and holistic view of agriculture that would take into consideration the interrelations of the natural cycles of plants, animals, humans and planets. To visualize how his approach is applied to viticulture, and to understand why anyone would take seriously a man that links materialism to a potato diet, I went to visit a pioneer Argentinian biodynamic estate named Alpamanta or “ Love of Earth “ in Huarpe, the local native language.

The Dung Thing Located in Ugarteche, at 950 absl, the 35 hectares of Alpamanta Estate have a flourishing ecosystem.

Walking in the vineyard, you will see a lot of insects, but also free-roaming animals like sheep, horses and hens. They even have a mobile hen-house to transport the poultry to the different parts of the property. Apart from eating the greens that can damage the vines, the animals help disperse the seeds and generate manure for fertilizer. The estate also boasts an organic herb garden, a home made

compost heap and vegetable garden.one of the principles of biodynamic farming is to consider the vineyard as a self-sufficient organism where fauna and flora are co-existing in a complementary way. A biodynamic vineyard is more like a self-sufficient farm, a closed-loop system in which things that are growing from the soil will eventually go back to nurture it.

Magic Potions With a biodynamic approach, the soil is not an inert material. It is an organic part, the micro-organisms of which are the key to help the crop synthesize the elements it needs to grow. Supposedly, disease and pests only appear when the microbiology of the vineyard is unbalanced.

Human intervention should remain minimal. It focuses instead on vitalizing the soils and make the vine more resistant by generating greater concentration of good micro-organisms through the application of preventive homeopathic-like “ biodynamic preparations”.

In Alpamanta, those preparations are kept inside half cut barrels in the cellar, including dry plants and glass

Savvy winemaking or New Age hokum? Emilie Giraud grabs biodynamic wine by the cow horns

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jars full of minerals, herbs, and some unidentified objects. opening up each barrel I went from surprise to surprise and even suspected witchcraft.

The first barrel contains some jars mentioning “ Preparation 500 “ filled up with a earthy and smelly material. Rocio, the manager, explains to me that it comes from the fermentation of cow dung put inside a cow horn in the soil during winter to concentrate its effect. Twice a year, on a day that is not rainy nor too hot nor to windy, after 4 pm, the resulting preparation will be “ dynamized” in the vineyard. To dynamize you must dilute it with rainwater at the temperature of the human body in very small doses. Brewed for one hour it is then sprayed in the vineyard.

According to biodynamic belief, this key preparation favors the microbiological activity, the formation of humus, regulates the acidity of the ground and stimulates the seeding and even the vertical growth of the root system. Another barrel, another potion. Powdered quartz is buried in a cow horn during the summer season.Dynamized on the plant, it strengthens the effect of the sunlight and supposedly allows for a better relation with the entire cosmos. It helps to balance the vegetative vigor of the plant, favors its internal structure and resistance, averting disease and increasing the intensity of the grape´s aromas. Steiner created four other preparations to enrich the compost. They are made of petals, nettles and dandelion flowers and fermented into intestine of dead animals.

“These preparations act as the different organs facilitating digestion,” explains Sebastian, the agronomist of Alpamanta.

The dandelion, for example, whose roots can reach a depth of 2 or 3 meters, demonstrates its great capacity to find resources in the soil. Added to the compost, it will “teach” the vine how to grow its root in the best possible way to absorb nutrients.

Moonlighting The best times for pruning, composting, harvesting, making and adding the biodynamic preparation are determined by strictly following a moon calendar.

Reading the biodynamic calendar of René Piamonte is a little bit like reading the horoscope of the vineyard. It is based on the phases of the moon and their relation to constellations. The days can be, “Root days; ideal to plough, Leaf day; ideal for irrigation, Flower days;ideal for pruning, and Fruit days; ideal for harvesting. “

The influence of the moon has always been important in farming and its effect on the tide is high school knowledge. As for water, a full moon will apparently help the flow of sap in the plant.

Good Eggs Biodynamic agriculture is a kind of extreme, new age version of organic agriculture.

In the same spirit, the vinification process should be as natural as possible and also connected to cosmic forces. That´s the reason why Alpamanta wines are fermented in egg-shaped concrete tanks. The shape creates a vortex, a kind of energy arch, that allows the lees to stay in suspension with no need to stir, reducing human intervention.

Stricter than the laws of organic agriculture, the wines can only be certified biodynamic if the fermentation was made entirely with the natural yeast of the grape.

A New Leaf Your rational mind might still not be convinced by this blend of esoteric philosophy and homeopathic treatment, but you might be surprised by a few tangible facts. Strangely enough when I visited in late Autumn, the manager of Alpamanta pointed out that their vineyard was the only one in the

area that still had leaves and had not been so affected by powdery mildew this year. Another winemaker made the same point:

“ We don’t exactly know why, but it appears that the biodynamic vineyards suffered way less diseases than others this year”.

Winemakers and wineries following Steiner’s legacy are also quite different from the image of the lunar wizard or outcast hippie we imagine of a person who talks about the cosmic energy of a cow horn fill up with poop. They bear such venerable names as Bianchi, Catena and Colomé. Biodynamic wines score as high as 96 pts in Wine Spectator as is the case of noemia from Patagonia. Even a cynic must recognize that being involved in such a binding approach reflects a deep interest in the care of the vineyard and for human wellbeing. Putting this system into place requires small-size vineyards and lots of commitment, well- known recipes for great wines.The wines produced by this method are great ambassadors of their terroir, providing the consumer with a unique tasting experience while fighting against the globalization of winemaking and wine tasting.

To visit Alpamanta Estate or contact them : turismo@alpamanta.com Calle Cobos s/n, Ugarteche, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza - Argentina:Office : +54 (0) 261 420 3643 Sales & Tourism: +54(9)261(15) 3468398

Rudolf Steiner

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WISHLIST - Biodynamic Wines

Luna Austral “Sintonia”,Finca Aurea, La Consulta Mario Toso and Alvaro Espinosa produce both grapes and wines that are certified biodynamic. The estate in La Consulta, Uco Valley, is designed around the Ying and Yang principle. only 1500 bottles of the Sintonia are produced and this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc has notes of asparagus and strawberry jam. $300

Buenalma Malbec, Finca Dinamia, San RafaelAlejandro Bianchi produces Buenalma (or Good Soul) at Finca Dinamia, a 14-hectare vineyard of Malbec-Côt planted in Rama Caida, San Rafael. The mix of oasis and the desert allows for good concentration and colour while the loamy soils add a nice touch of minerality. $165

Alpamanta Estate Cabernet Franc, Bodega Alpamanta, Ugarteche Three friends have decided to follow the rules of biodynamic farming to make pure varietal “terroir wine” from their Ugarteche vineyard which they started from scratch in 2005. Their new creation, Cabernet Franc Estate 2013, demonstrates the great adaptation of this grape variety in Argentina. $230

Doña Silvina Reserva Malbec, Bodega Krontiras, LuluntaGreek businessman and wine lover Constantino Krontiras and his Mendocina wife Silvina make wine from a 100-year old biodynamic vineyard in Lulunta, Lujan de Cuyo, The nose has elegant notes of dried red fruits, vanilla and cream. $300

Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu Malbec, Ernesto Catena Vineyards, Vistaflores The son of nicolas Catena produces wines from his biodynamic vineyards Finca la Intensidad in Vistafores, Uco Valley. Intense, complex and elegant. $300

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CAFAYATE OR BUST

Located in the Province of Salta, Cafayate is a lovely town of 11,000 inhabitants and the most important settlement of the Calchaqui Valleys. Nestled at 1680 m high, the town is renowned for its high altitude vineyards and for its Torrontès, a native white grape that thrives in 360 days of sun a year, cold nights and sandy soils.

Cafayate’s rich colonial and pre-colonial history as well as dramatic landscapes in its surroundings makes it a perfect destination to discover in the Argentinian North.

For the Curious (or indecisive) type

Push the door of Chato’s Wine Bar, next to Cafayate’s main square.

Chato will receive you in his cosy bar with impeccable English. More than anything he is a passionate about wine and if you encourage him a little bit, he may unveil the secrets of his terroir, tell you the history of Cafayate’s vineyards and show you some of his collectors’ bottle.

You will doubtless find the right tasting option from a 200 bottle menu. Food platters are also served.

Favorite Wine tasted: I had a crush on a stunning Sauvignon blanc from TUKMA winery, a 2670 meter high vineyard in Humahuaca. Aromas of asparagus and a beautiful intensity.

Emilie Giraud gives the lowdown on a high place – the wine town of Cafayate, Salta.

Chato’s Wine Bar

Quebrada de Cafafayate

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You are the Epicurean type

In the heart of Cafayate, El Porvenir hides behind the adobe walls of a traditional winery from the end of the 19th century, renovated and modernized by the Romero-Marcuzzi family in 1999.

The heavy wooden doors open onto a pleasant patio covered with succulent plants and organized around the shadow of an hundred-year-old carob-tree.

The atmosphere is somewhere between tradition and modernity, with a lot of elegance and subtlety.

The traditional barrels are made of carob tree and the brilliant colors of their modern counterparts decorated by contemporary artists.

The winery produces 200,000 bottles per annum.

Favorite Wine tasted: The Amauta line has freshness an is not too oaked, with notes of cassis and plumb with a spicy touch.

For reservations: adrianaelporvenirdecafayate.com

Taking some altitude in the direction of Yacochuya, 8 kms West from Cafayate, and after crossing a most-of-the-year dry river, you will reach Domingo Molina’s winery. Built in 2009, the winery hosts the haut-de-gamme project of three brothers, osvaldo, Gabriel and Rafael descendant of the Domingos, a traditional vintner family of Cafayate.

Perched at 2000 m high, the building offers a fantastic view of the surrounding vineyards. The tas-ting of their high-altitude wines is accompanied by some cheeses and dried fruits.

Favorite wine tasted: I loved the surprising and great value Malbec-Tannat blend “ Hermanos” .

For reservations: turismo@domingomolina.com.ar

on the other side of Cafayate, 5 km from the city center and on the route to the waterfalls of the Rio Colorado, go and discover the “ Master of

Torrontès”, José Luis Mounier and his Finca Las nubes - literally the “ Cloud Farm ” - where he produces 70,000 bottles a year only.

The idyllic place offers a panoramic view of the town. Some vines are cultivated on terraces and farming practices are sustainable.

A must see for Torrontès fanatics.

Favorite Wine tasted: The Torrontès is generally not a grape variety that is oaked or aged, but the 2010 Laguna Brava Torrontès aged in

American oak is a rare gem. Great structure, and slightly smoked, it feels totally unique.

If like me you like concentrated and spicy reds, try their Laguna Brava Tannat fermented in oak barrels.

For the alternative type

organize yourself a journey to Amaicha del Valle, 60 km south of Cafayate.

From there, visit the Ruins of Quilmes with a native guide.

El Porvenir

Bodega Domingo Molina

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2 kms away from the village of Amaicha, the winery is the only business owned by a native com-munity in South America.

Brand new- the first harvest was this year- , the winery was built collectively by the community itself in a pre-hispanic style with dry stone walls organized around circular patterns.

The project is based on the concept of “ Buen Vivir”, a philosophy of life which aims at respecting ideals of cooperation, reciprocity and care for the environment which has become the political corner stone of Amaicha native Community.

The grapes are bought at a fair price from 60 very small organic producers.

Favorite Wine: Uva criolla, a traditional grape variety of the region.

For reservations: note that the touristic project of the winery is just about to start, so contact the Cacique or the native guide Sebastian Pastrana to secure a visit. informes@sumajpacha.com

For alternative wine tourism closer to the center of Cafayate, you can visit the organic winery Nanni and the cooperative of small producers Trassoles.

For reservations:info@bodegananni.com.arcoopvitivinicolacafayate@yahoo.com.ar

For the adventurous type

Go for an excursion in Quebrada del Rio de las Conchas and try some artesanal wines.

The Route 68 is a visual feast of natural sculptures cut in red rock.

When you get thristy, try to spot on the side of the road chalk-written boards advertising for “ vino patero” a generally sweet home wine I dare you to try.

Reaching km 23, stop at “ La Yesera” put your trekking shoes and go for a beautiful and easy walk.

Further down the road, test the acoustics of the Anfiteatro or venture into “The throat of the Devil” (La Garganta del Diablo).

on your way back, 15 min before reaching Cafayate, stop at the hamlet of El Mollar, find the house of Jose David Gonza and try his Don Caledonio Malbec, a very artesanal and surprisingly good wine. Super concentrated and spicy.

You are the non-drinking type

Don’t worry, Cafayate won’t let you down.

You may appreciate a visit to the Museo de la Vid y del Vino, explore the terroir of Cafayate through video installation in an old and charming winery where it’s not necessary to sip to feel at ease.

You can also indulge yourself with a Torrontès or Malbec artesanal ice-cream from Heladeria Miranda, or devour the goat cheeses of “Cabras de Cafayate” .The place, owned by Domingo Hermano’s winery is surrounded by vines and the goats are fed with grape skins and seeds.

Cabras de Cafayate

Quebrada de Cafayate

Bodega de Amaicha

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THE LOST CITY

Emilie Giraud visits Argentina’s very own Machu Picchu – the ruins of Quilmes

There is a famous saying in Latin America: “The Mexican come from the Aztecs; the Peruvian from the Incas and the Argentinians from the boats “. Visiting Amaicha del Valle, a little village in the Calchaquì Valley, Tucuman, I got to meet descendants of a pre-Inca people, the Diaguitas, and discover “the other history” of the Argentinian north.

50 km from lush, green Tafi del Valle and 60 km from Cafayate,

Amaicha is only mentioned in touristic guides as a practical spot to sleep before visiting the Ruins of Quilmes. At the entrance of the village, a welcoming billboard boasts about Amaicha being the place with the best climate of the world with 360 days of sun a year. The scenery is from a classic Western – clouds of dust, carob trees and huge cactuses. Sun bleached cow skulls hang at the entrances of some houses.

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I was lured there with friends to celebrate the summer solstice. In Amaicha, you won’t find traditional hotels but instead you can rent rooms in family houses. That’s how we settled in Amancay, the colorful, traditional style house of my host Sebastian Pastrana.

At dawn, our cheerful group walks towards a piece of land deemed sacred by Sebastian’s father Miguel. The day star is just about to show. While the sun rises in a magical red glow at the rhythm of the traditional flute and tambour, the old man, ceremoniously wrapped in a poncho, offers home-made wine, cigarettes, medicinal plants and water to the Earth, begging her for our world not to collapse.

Like many Andean people, the lifestyle and spirituality of the Amaichas revolves around the figure of Pachamama. Pachamama is more than Mother nature, it is the entire Universe. They believe she gives us everything and we are part of her. She requires reciprocity and respect. one should only use her resources reasonably and honor her with offerings.

“20 years ago, those rituals were considered Indian things, and it was not something positive“ explains Sebastian. “I remember my grandmother opening the mouth of the Pachamama in the mountain, curing it, cleaning it, perfuming it with incense, leaving it ready for offerings. Myself and my cousins would fast and offer wheat and corn, careful not to leave any mark of the ritual behind. At the end, she

“At school we were told something and at home, we were told a different history,” admits Sebastian and he invites us to see that other history at the city of Quilmes, a few kilometers away.

“When we are taught about native people in Latin America, we study a bit of the Maya, the Inca and the Aztec civilizations. But you need to know there were also very well organized tribes before the Incas here in Argentina.”

Sebastian explains that the Diaguita culture, (the Amaichas and Quilmes), was 60,000 people living in the Calchaqui Valley up until the end of the 17th century and their territory stretched 25.500 sq km between what are nowadays Tucuman, Catamarca and Salta provinces. They grew corn, quinoa and pumpkin using irrigation and terraces. They worked leather as well as gold, silver, bone, bronze and made ceramics and fabrics. Unlike the Incas, they were not an expansionist civilization.

The Incas only entered the Valley in 1480 and dominated this area for 50 years before being defeated by the Spanish. In 1534, the Conquistadores arrived in the region and imposed heavy taxes and compulsory catholicism. The spirituality and ceremonies of the Diaguitas were prohibited along with their language, the kakan.

would send us away quickly fearing that someone who did not share the practice would pass by. At the time, it was considered witchery “.

nowadays, the day of the Pachamama - the 1st of August, is celebrated openly in the Andes and there is a revival amongst the native people. In Argentina however, scornful references to native culture are still pretty prevalent and “Indio” remains a common insult in everyday slang. Very little is said in history books about pre-Inca people and the official history assumes they have all died. The winner wrote the history and the loser has been denied its own existence, and identity.

Rebuilt “ purca “ in Quilmes.. 

Amancay House. 

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Amancay House. 

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“Two chiefs Calchaqui and Chelemin united the tribes of the valley and lead a 130 year-old rebellion against the Spanish from 1534 and 1667,” recounts Sebastian with pride in his eyes. The last to resist were the Quilmes who held out to the end in their city.

“This place has a very heavy history,” he explains. “Entire generations lived and died in a state of continuous war.”

Approaching the archeological site, we can observe lots of dry stone walls following circular or rectangular patterns, extending from the plain to the mountain. The circular buildings used to be places of production and the rectangular ones were houses. The walls nearby the entrance were rebuilt in 1977, under the military dictatorship.

“The reconstruction work was neither done with scientific rigour nor historical relevancy, the work was rough and made for tourist to take nice pictures” according to Sebastian.

Interestingly enough, many workers involved in the restoration were descendants of the native people that once lived there. They had accepted the task in order to escape the harsh work of the sugarcane factories yet they rarely got paid.

To see the original city better, we start to walk up the pucara, the Indian fortress. The oral tradition of the Diaguitas says that the Sacred City is divided in two parts - the City of Peace and the City of War. The City of Peace extended toward the South. It is a flat area ideal for farming, and where people would normally live. The City of War is the pucara, the triangular mountain we are climbing on. The walls of its houses served as paths to go up and find refuge during invasions.

In 1667, after a century of war, and the deaths of thousands of people, a Spanish general called Villacorta ended the rebellion by besieging the fortress and cutting their access to water and food. Fleeing women and children were tortured and killed, witnessed by the Spanish bishop Bartholomé de las Casas, who later denounced these acts as “human butchery”. The siege turned into a bloodbath and the city was never ever inhabited again.

After the native people surrendered, the official history says that 2000 survivors were forced to march 1500 km to the city of Quilmes in the province of Buenos Aires. only 400 people made it. In the census of 1810, they do not appear

anywhere. The archives explain that women had made “a pact of non-procreation”. From then on, the official history considers there is no more descendants of this people. However in a 2001 census, more than 30,000 people claimed Diaguita origins.

Alternative research and the careful study of the archives show that not all the Diaguitas had been displaced to Buenos Aires. Before the final surrender at Quilmes, many had been exiled to Salta, La Rioja, Catamarca, Cordoba and Santa Fé to work in vineyards, mines and cotton plantations. There is even a town called Calchaqui in Santé Fé Province. During the siege, the last Cacique, Ikin, is even said to have had some Quilmes women and children escape through the mountains. A bishop crossing from Chile to Tucuman in 1710 related how he encountered tribes, suggesting they came back to the area 50 years after. In 1716, the Crown of Spain gave the remaining Diaguita back 120,000 hectares, including Quilmes, under the condition they let the mules and sheep of the governor pasture freely on their land. They also had to convert to Catholicism, which they accepted without never really abandoning their own spirituality.

Spiritual Amaicha

25

Finally reaching the top of the pucara, I understand how strategic the fortress was, protected by the mountain on one side and offering a spectacular view on the Calchaqui Valley on the other side. Contemplating the wonderful scenery, I see a derelict hotel and its huge empty swimming pool standing right inside the surrounding walls of the Sacred City.

In the 1990’s, in a wave of privatization, the archeological site was sold and developed as a tourist resort. The native community of Quilmes rose up and decided to retake the site by force, closing down the hotel. They now manage the site and the money from entrance fees go to micro-credits and educational projects that benefit the community.

History has somehow managed to repeat itself. The Amaichas-Quilmes remain defiant and are nowadays more organized than ever to protect and value their rights. Quilmes is more than a set of historical ruins but a living example of one people’s ongoing fight for survival and identity.

Government House of the Amaichas 

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DInInG oUTMENDOZA CITY

PatronaThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has a casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona attracts a crowd full of locals every night of the week who come for the honest, traditional Argentine food and friendly and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes like the hearty empanadas and sizzling asado are worthy and popular fare but the real star here is Patrona’s warm, open sandwiches We recommend the artichoke hearts and goats cheese; roasted vegetables with white wine and honey; or the more traditional pick of rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent wine list and some satisfying desserts complete the gastronomy experience but the key to Patrona is the cosy way that they really make you feel at home. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal cost: $140/(including starter, main dish, dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q serves up traditional regional cuisine at a five star level. Sit back in the chic parilla style restaurant amongst the cowhides and local artwork, pick from one of the many Mendocinean wines, make your order and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. They are famous for their grilled meats and gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty Argentine classics such as ‘locro’ - a stew which hails back to the early independence days. Save room for the stunning desserts. The Hyatt’s other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a more gourmet evening menu and the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in town. With a gorgeous buffet spread of starters like squid and basil stew, crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and mezze style tapas, you’ll need to bring your stretchy waistbands to fit in the hearty and flavourful main options and the sumptuous dessert buffet on top. Put aside an hour or two for this tempting lunch or make your way here in the evening to try the Mediterranean inspired dishes including delicious pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill Q $240 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu $270 with starter buffet, main course, dessert buffet and glass of wine.

Los NegritosRight in the middle of Las Vegas (in Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza) this restaurant stems from a story of a family who came to live in here one of the first weekend houses constructed in the area. They named their home ‘los negritos’ a nickname of their two young children. Many years later, one of the ‘negritos’ (Enrique) decided to leave the bustle of the city, moved to the mountains and opened a restaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner every weekend and on public holidays and the cuisine is flavourful and typically Argentine with stews (such as Tomaticán and mondongo) milanesas, humita and homemade pasta - many of the recipes used are old family recipes. The restaurant has been recognized as part of the ‘gastronomical route’ and is noted for its quality of cooking, architecture and landscape.Los olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos. (261)155697431. Avg: $120.

El MercaditoWith an attractive fairy lit patio and terrace outside, this is the perfect spot for some lunch time sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by three friends, El Mercadito has a cool vibe and relaxed music making it a favorite. opened recently by three friends, El Mercadito is offering something a little bit different to Mendoza. With a cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive waiting staff, this is quickly becoming a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to eat or evening cocktails. opening in the morning for healthy breakfasts and antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big salads and some Argentine classic meals. Chow down to big healthy salads like the ‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns, fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck into one of their big toasted sandwiches like smoked salmon and cream cheese, or jamon crudo and arugula served with chunky chips and homemade BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make sure to try out one of their yummy strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

La MarchigianaAs the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty of history and traditional recipes to whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family restaurant started off with only six hearty Italian dishes but has grown into a popular local fixture which is always busy despite its curious lack of ambience. The pasta is the best thing here, maintaining original recipes from over 60 years ago; we recommend the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg. meal price: $160

Grill Q

Los Negritos

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Anna BistroAnna Bistro has been an important restaurant on Mendoza’s food scene since it opened 8 years ago, however that doesn’t stop it from renovating itself each year. This year Jerome and his team have started smoking their own salmon and cheese to add a bit more flavour to some dishes and you can try the rich salmon on delicious brioche and go the whole hog with a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky prawns. Along with a handful of salmon dishes there are a host of different foods on the menu including classic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighter options including big salads, sharing platters and vegetarian dishes. While lunch and dinner is still its main game, the beautiful gardens and restaurant are open for breakfast from 8am offering unending treats from their own French patisserie and the late afternoon is perfect for sipping your way through the extensive cocktail list or take your pick from the arm

long wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818. Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost: $190 pesos.

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Terruño - Club TapizTucked away among the sprawling Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely restaurant Terruño. This handsome eatery boasts an elegant interior, excellent service and a wine list that is sure to please even the most finicky of wine snobs. Their chef compiles a tantalising menu that includes top notch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that is second to none. If you like what you see and taste, book a room in one of their seven Renaissance-style villas. Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg. meal cost: $370 pesos.

La Marchigiana

locally produced with lots of vegetarian and gluten-free options. Creamy ginger and pumpkin soup, succulent sweetbreads with malbec jam and a very tender grilled lamb with orange flavored chimichurri. A talented mixologist is on hand to serve Prickly Pear Cocktail made with the red fruits of cactus grown on

Suspended between Heaven & Earth, in an idyllic setting that resembles a zen garden, Katharina Restaurant at the luxurious Entre Cielos Resort is now open for breakfast, lunch, tea time or dinner. Argentinian classics are revisited with an international touch and all the ingredients are organic and

Katharina Restaurant

the property. Thursday and Sundays are asado nights and cooking cooking classes are available conducted by the chef himself.

katharina@entrecielos.com /Entre Cielos – Guardia Vieja 1998 - Vistalba / +54 261 498 33 77

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LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with well-appointed tasting room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation with nice history. A five minute walk from Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royal family of Argentine wine and their seat of operations is a handsome and elegant 110-year old winery. Classical architecture, ancient atmospheric cellars and rich wines such as the Finca Las nobles range make for a fascinating visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious Chilean winery Montes. Big and powerful wines, destined for fame. TEL (0261) 4761111-14 InT 113 / Movile (0261-153 530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453) Roque Saenz Peña 5516, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. open from Mon to Sat from 8 AM to 6:30 PM/SUn and holidays from 9 AM to 1 PM. www.kaikenwin es.com

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

THE WInERY GUIDENieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old winery in Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888 and makes a great range of wines and sparkling wines and offers horseback riding in the vineyards and asado style lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja S/n, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunches make Melipal one of the most exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) 4790202. R.n.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

MendelAn old style winery ran by one of Argentina’s most famous winemaker dynasties the De La Motta family. (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar

Viña CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbs was one of the first to recognise the possibilities of Malbec and his Bramare label is possibly one of the best examples of this varietal. (0261) 479 0130. R.n. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www.vinacobos.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour including barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma room and restaurant with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.belascomalbec.com

PiattelliA lovely family owned winery done in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine: oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123. Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.piattellivineyards.com

CruzatA boutique traditional sparkling wine producer with gorgeous bubbles that can be enjoyed from their terrace overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellent view of mountains and vines. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery with clear views of the mountains and a large terrace used for sunset wine events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. owned by the Spanish experts in sparkling wine, Codorniu, they make fab sparkling wine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

BonfantiA lovely winery in a pastoral setting. Up close and personal tours with the owners themselves and a tasting room set amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595. Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo.

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and rich complex wines make this a winery with finesse and style. Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www.pulentaestate.com

Nortonold-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays are popular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovely old bodega with lots of character. Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

Navarro CorreasThe closest winery to Mendoza city, easily accessible navarro Correas is a modern winery with great sparkling wines and fun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. San Francisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery on the main road to Chile just before the mountains and has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine: Rosado. (261)156992890. R.n.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

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Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Luján de Cuyo

Maipú

Mendoza City

San Martín

Valle de Uco

ChandonThe original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been making great sparkling wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentina´s most famous female winemaker Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex wines in the heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Lagardeowner of the oldest white wine in South America. Try the hand-crafted sparkling wine made from 100 year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunch make for an unforgettable culinary experience. (0261) 5537164 - 2614540974. R.n.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility with spectacular views of the mountains from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Estrella de los Andeson a leafy road in the middle of Lujan, this winery has a cool, retro diner with well presented and tasty Argentine dishes that won’t break your bank. open all day and a relaxed atmosphere. olavarria 225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190. www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

DoliumA completely underground winery with innovative design and top notch Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km 30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

La Madrid/DuriguttiTucked away in a restored winery in Las Compuertas, you can taste single vineyard and terroir blend wines from both of these ambitious projects from under one roof. Walk-ins welcome.Roque Sáenz Peña 8450, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. (261) 562 9134/35.www.durigutti.com www.lamadridwines.com

Carmelo PattiMendoza’s most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti himself is often there to show you around (in Spanish). Fav. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614, Luján de Cuyo.

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery in a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine tinted rosé amidst the pastoral splendour of the owner’s expansive garden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www.familiacassone.com.ar

CasarenaA beautiful mix of old and new, this winery mixes tradition and modernity in an old style winery with a super modern restaurant with splendid views of the vineyarsd and mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.casarena.com. Tel 2616967848.

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Ojo de VinoOh Yeah! Anyone who grew up in the eighties will quickly associate Dieter Meier with the above title. But what you may not be aware of however is that that the very same Swiss artist has invested in land, cattle and Argentine Malbec. ojo de Vino is a medium size winery that produces organic wines aged in oak barrels for between 6 and 24 months. The names, colors and shapes of the bottles may leave you somewhat bewildered but I suggest you overcome your prejudices, uncork, and let yourself be guided by the purple fairies going out from eachbottle. Located down a dirt road between vineyards and poplars with the towering Andes nearby, the winery’s restaurant “ ojo de Agua” offers lunches beneath a cane-roofed gallery or in an outdoor setting next

Ojo de VinoA modern winery in Agrelo, notable not just for exceptional wines such as the Malo Blend, but also the fact its owner is the Godftaher of Techno, Swiss musician Dieter Meier. The winery restaurant ojo de Agua, has a delighful setting next to a vineyard lake.Bajo Las Cumbres S/n. Agrelo. Tel 2615731688. hospitality@ojodevino.com

to a pond. The chef Jaime Baeza serves home-made dishes paired with wines such as Puro, Malo and Super Malo.

Opened from Monday to Sunday. Bajo LasCumbres s/n. Lujan de Cuyo. Tel: 0261-155731688,jaimeabaeza@gmail.com

Achaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

MAIPU

TrapicheArgentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old and new, traditional and industrial, and has the old train tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar

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THE WInERY GUIDE

FlichmanSteeped in history and tradition. Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. www.flichman.com

Familia Di Tommassoofficially the second oldest winery in Mendoza and still run by Argentine hands. Their charming and rustic restaurant looks onto the vineyard, just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.familiaditommaso.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation. Attractive restaurant amidst the vines, famous for its asado-style lunches and generous wine pourings. (0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real ‘vinos de autor’, US born Brennan Firth makes his limited production wines in a small winery in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high end wines, a visit and tasting is with the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP CavaPremium wines made from different terroirs but all by renowned winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings and a close proximity to the city make it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261) 4813201/4668048

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum with invaluable antiques like cowhide wine presses and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you can see the entire process from the beautiful green vineyards to the minimal intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-owned winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481 3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with two museums on the wine. Restaurant offers gourmet cuisine with a panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

VALLE DE UCO

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting room looks upon dramatic views of vineyards against mountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some great white wines, a unique stony roof and they breed their own trout which is served in the charming restaurant.(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La AzulSimple, small production winery with not so simple Malbecs and a small traditional restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

Finca La Celiaone of the valley’s oldest wineries. They conduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622) 451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine, this ultra-concept winery includes a modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7In the heart of gorgeous Vista Flores, you can visit premium French owned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland, Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andes in one visit for tastings, horseriding, art and lunch. (0261) 156 687680. www.clos7.com.ar

O. FournierMost architecturally innovative winery with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent lunches in the modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, part of the exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This is a modern winery in a stunning setting. 0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega MasiFascinating Italian job in the heart of Tupungato with commanding views and commanding wines, especiially the Amarone inspired varietals and unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.masitupungato.com

Domaine BousquetAnother French transplant to the Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, this sizeable operation produces high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec and now has a popular restaurant serving excellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta 89. Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.com Tel 2615274048

The Vines of MendozaThere are not many wineries that can claim 300 different labels, but then again The Vines is no ordinary winery. It is best described as a cooperative of wine lovers around the World who have all bought a vineyard plot each in Uco Valley and are making their own wine in a central winery with experts such as Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add to this a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley will never be the same again.Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

SAN MARTIN

Familia AntoniettiA family winery in San Martin where you can have a tour with the owners, try some of their sparkling wines and stay for a homecooked lunch. (0261) 4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n esq. Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martín.

Trivento Located in the bucolic splendour of southern Maipu, Trivento is owned by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This modern winery has a beautiful deck set amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle excursions within the property. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 413-7156. www.trivento.com

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INSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

MATIAS DOWN TOWNVictorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners. Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is right in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

EL MERCADITOAristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and this resto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El Mercadito is run by three friends and it lets the good times roll with healthy meals – including big salads, which are a rarity here – antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh cocktails and a top music mix. Spend an evening here and you’ll hear a few beats from across the pond and leave with a light stomach and a few stars brightening up your vision.El Mercadito, Aristides 521.

BELIEVE IRISH PUBone of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor

BARSin its notable popularity among expats and travelers. on the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

ANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its own micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in this respect with bars located across the country since before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153.

VELVETThis hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from Mendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and great music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club room, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a Friday and Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria (261) 467 433.

BLACK SHEEPJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like! Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

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USEFUL InFoRMATIonAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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