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Re-invent Conditioningwith Dow Personal Care
In Cosmetics, Milan
31st March 2011Frédéric de la Torre, European Technical Service Leader
EcoSmooth™ Silk
EcoSmooth™ Silk provides Personal Care brand owners an
alternative to silicone in shampoo formulations.
conditioning and EcoSmooth™ Silk provides equivalent conditioning and
hair strength, and superior volume at competitive price
levels.
EcoSmooth™ Silk at a GlanceAppearance Milky white dispersion in water
(40-44% solids)
Particle size ~1 micron
INCI Name Ethylene/Octene Copolymer (and) Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer
Water
Polyolefin
Stabilizing Agent
Viscosity <500 cPs (Brookfield at 25°C)
Neutralized Sodium Hydroxide
pH 9.2-10.5
Recommended use level ~1% solids basis
Stabilizing Agent
EcoSmooth™ Silk is a proprietary combination of polyolefin and acrylic platforms.
It is sulfate-free and EO-free
Competitive Comparison Studies
Show Conditioning, Strengthening, & VolumeShow Conditioning, Strengthening, & Volume
benefits for EcoSmooth™ Silk vs. Silicone
• Each panelist evaluates 1-2 sets of hair tresses and are asked which they prefer (comb
and feel).
• It is a single blind study – panelists do not know which tresses are treated with which
formulation.
• Separate tresses are used for wet and dry hair evaluations.
• Dry hair panelists – also asked which tress has more volume.
• Dry hair tresses air dried.
• Minimum of 10 evaluations needed.
Panel Studies - Procedure
• Minimum of 10 evaluations needed.
• 80% preference is considered statistically significant for a forced choice test.
5
Dedicated comb
Hair tress
Dow Panel Study
EcoSmooth™ Silk matches silicone performance on Asian hair in panel tests.
100
1% Dimethicone
1% EcoSmooth Silk
Panel Test on Asian Virgin Hair
Dow Panel Study
Asian Virgin Hair
ALES/ALS/Betaine/CMEA,
0.25% Cationic Guar
20 Asian Panelists
0
20
40
60
80
100
Wet F
eel
Wet C
omb
Dry
Com
b
Dry
Fee
l
Vol
ume
% P
an
eli
sts
Wet Comb Test Procedure
Wet Combability of Shampoo
Combing Force of Hair (Before vs After Treatment)
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
Load
(gm
f)
Before Treatment
After Treatment
7
%WC reduction = [(WCF control - WCFshampooed)/WCFcontrol ]x 100
control– without shampoo treatment; shampooed-- after shampoo treatment
0
200
400
600
1 90 179
268
357
446
535
624
713
802
891
980
1069
1158
1247
1336
1425
1514
1603
1692
1781
1870
Extension (%)Lo
ad (
gmf)
Dow Objective Wet Comb Study
EcoSmooth™ Silk wet-comb performance is similar to silicone on Asian hair.
80
100
Co
mb
Fo
rce
Re
du
ctio
n %
Wet Comb Force Test on Asian Virgin Hair
Dow Objective Wet Comb Study
Asian Virgin Hair
ALES/ALS/Betaine/CMEA, 0.25%
Cationic Guar
1%
Dimethicone
1% EcoSmooth
Silk
0
20
40
60
80
Co
mb
Fo
rce
Re
du
ctio
n %
Dow Panel Study
EcoSmooth™ Silk also performs on par with silicone on damaged European hair.
100
1% Dimethicone
1% EcoSmooth Silk
Panel Test on European Damaged Hair
Dow Panel Study
European 8-hr Bleached Hair
SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,
0.25% Cationic Guar
10 U.S. Panelists
0
20
40
60
80
100
wet f
eel
wet c
om
b
dry
feel
dry
com
b
Vol
ume
% P
an
eli
sts
Dow Panel Study
EcoSmooth™ Silk performs on par with Large Particle Size Silicone on virgin European hair.
100
1% Silk No difference 1% LPS
Panel Test on European Virgin Hair
Dow Panel Study
European Virgin Hair
SLES/CAPB, EGDS,
0.25% Polyquaternium-10
10 European Panelists
0
20
40
60
80
100
Dow Panel Study
EcoSmooth™ Silk performs on par with Small Particle Size Silicone on virgin European hair.
Panel Test on European Virgin Hair
100
1% SPS No difference 1% Silk
Dow Panel Study
European Virgin Hair
SLES/CAPB, EGDS,
0.25% Polyquaternium-10
10 European Panelists
0
20
40
60
80
100
Independent laboratory testing confirms EcoSmooth™ Silk performance.
60
80
100
% R
ed
uct
ion
in
Pe
ak
Lo
ad Wet Comb
60
80
100
% R
ed
uct
ion
in
No
.
Bro
ken
Fib
ers
Dry Hair Breakage Reduction
Dimethicone
EcoSmooth
Silk
0
20
40
% R
ed
uct
ion
in
Pe
ak
Lo
ad
Independent Laboratory Test
SLES/DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic guar / EGDS
Bleached European brown hair
Dimethicone EcoSmooth
Silk
0
20
40
% R
ed
uct
ion
in
No
.
Bro
ken
Fib
ers
EcoSmooth™ Silk provides better volume, suggesting less build-up than silicone
Panel study evaluating volume after 10 washes.
SLES-2/DSCADA + 0.25% cationic guar + 2% EGDS80
100Build-Up on Hair
EcoSmooth™
Silk
SLES-2/DSCADA + 0.25% cationic guar + 2% EGDS
European Virgin Brown hair
Wash and air dry 10 times
10 panelists
0
20
40
60
% P
an
eli
sts
Dimethicone
EcoSmooth™ Silk provides better foam volume and less foam reduction
500
600
700
800
900
1000
1% Dimethicone
1% EcoSmooth Silk
Foa
m V
olu
me
(m
l)
Effect on Foam
Foam volume after 3 minute test
Silicone:SLES-2 / DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic Guar /
0
100
200
300
400
500
Initial 3 min
Foa
m V
olu
me
(m
l)
SLES-2 / DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic Guar / 1% DC2-1491 / 2% EGDS
EcoSmooth™ Silk: SLES-2 / DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic Guar / 1% EcoSmooth™ Silk / 2% EGDS
Formulation with EcoSmooth™ SilkEcoSmooth™ Silk can be formulated into most standard surfactant systems
SLES/CAPB ALES/CAPB ALS/CAPB SLES + SLS / CAPB (Cocamidopropyl betaine)
High temperature stability of Silk in formulations requires:• Viscosity > ~5000 cP• Suspension aid
Formulation tipsFormulation tips• Recommend EcoSmooth™ Silk be added at room temperature, after all heating stepsand before reducing pH
Shampoo + cationic guar
+ Silk + EGDS
Shampoo + cationic guar
+ silicone + EGDS
Phase Trade Name % Wt. INCI / CTFA Name Supplier % active
A
Deionized Water 50,00 Water / Aqua -
Versene™ 100 XL (EDTA 38,4%) 0,26 Tetrasodium EDTA Dow Chemical 0,1
EcoSmooth™ 100 0,25 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Dow Chemical 0,25
Citric acid (10% solution) 1,60 Citric acid Prolabo 0,16
Aculyn™ 38 (29% active) 3,45 Acrylates/Vinyl Neodecanoate crosspolymer Dow Chemical 1
Methocel™ 40-0202 (4% solution) 5,00 Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Dow Chemical 0,2
BEmpigen BSFA (30% active) 6,67 Cocamidopropyl betaine Huntsman 2,0
Empicol ESB-70 (70% active) 14,29 Sodium Laureth sulfate Huntsman 10,0
C Cithrol EGDS-PA-(SG) 2,00 Glycol distearate Croda 2,0
D Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) 2,30 Sodium hydroxide Prolabo 0,23
Formulation example
D Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) 2,30 Sodium hydroxide Prolabo 0,23
E EcoSmooth™ Silk (41% active) 2,44Ethylene/Octene Copolymer (and)
Ethylene/Potassium Acrylate CopolymerDow Chemical 1
F Citric acid (10% solution) 2,30 Citric acid Prolabo 0,23
GNeolone™ PE 0,55 Methylisothiazolinone, Phenoxyethanol Dow Chemical 0,55
Amande Douce G10934112 0,10 Parfum / Fragrance Robertet 0,1
H Deionized Water 8,79 Water / Aqua
TOTAL 100,00
Parameter Range Method
pH (as is) 5.9-6.1 pH meter
Viscosity 5000-9000 cPs Brookfield LV, #4, 12 rpm
Appearance white pearlized Visual
ProductCharacteristics
Summary of Key Benefits
EcoSmooth™ Silk , in combination with cationic polymers, gives excellent conditioning performance vs. silicone emulsions at competitive cost to treat. Benefits are observed in Asian, European and Damaged hair
EcoSmooth™ Silk is non-cationic and expected to create less build-up on hair versus silicones
EcoSmooth™ Silk does not contain sulfate or ethylene oxide modification
More to come …
EcoSmooth™ platform will be extended with :
EcoSmooth ™ SatinEcoSmooth ™ Satin
Please join us at NYSCC Suppliers' Day 2011
to discover a new unique conditioning technology from Dow Personal Care
Thank You
EcoSmooth™ SilkRe-Invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care
Visit us at Booth C40
http://www.dow.com/personalcare/ecosmooth_silk/
Appreciation to Susan Jordan, Janet Windisch, Albert Lee, Marie-Laure Breton, Carine Koenig, Courtney Fretz and Fabienne Bizeray of Dow Personal Care for their contributions to this presentation.