re-invent conditioning with dow personal care · re-invent conditioning with dow personal care in...

19
Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, European Technical Service Leader

Upload: dangnhan

Post on 19-Feb-2019

215 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Re-invent Conditioningwith Dow Personal Care

In Cosmetics, Milan

31st March 2011Frédéric de la Torre, European Technical Service Leader

Page 2: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

EcoSmooth™ Silk

EcoSmooth™ Silk provides Personal Care brand owners an

alternative to silicone in shampoo formulations.

conditioning and EcoSmooth™ Silk provides equivalent conditioning and

hair strength, and superior volume at competitive price

levels.

Page 3: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

EcoSmooth™ Silk at a GlanceAppearance Milky white dispersion in water

(40-44% solids)

Particle size ~1 micron

INCI Name Ethylene/Octene Copolymer (and) Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer

Water

Polyolefin

Stabilizing Agent

Viscosity <500 cPs (Brookfield at 25°C)

Neutralized Sodium Hydroxide

pH 9.2-10.5

Recommended use level ~1% solids basis

Stabilizing Agent

EcoSmooth™ Silk is a proprietary combination of polyolefin and acrylic platforms.

It is sulfate-free and EO-free

Page 4: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Competitive Comparison Studies

Show Conditioning, Strengthening, & VolumeShow Conditioning, Strengthening, & Volume

benefits for EcoSmooth™ Silk vs. Silicone

Page 5: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

• Each panelist evaluates 1-2 sets of hair tresses and are asked which they prefer (comb

and feel).

• It is a single blind study – panelists do not know which tresses are treated with which

formulation.

• Separate tresses are used for wet and dry hair evaluations.

• Dry hair panelists – also asked which tress has more volume.

• Dry hair tresses air dried.

• Minimum of 10 evaluations needed.

Panel Studies - Procedure

• Minimum of 10 evaluations needed.

• 80% preference is considered statistically significant for a forced choice test.

5

Dedicated comb

Hair tress

Page 6: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Dow Panel Study

EcoSmooth™ Silk matches silicone performance on Asian hair in panel tests.

100

1% Dimethicone

1% EcoSmooth Silk

Panel Test on Asian Virgin Hair

Dow Panel Study

Asian Virgin Hair

ALES/ALS/Betaine/CMEA,

0.25% Cationic Guar

20 Asian Panelists

0

20

40

60

80

100

Wet F

eel

Wet C

omb

Dry

Com

b

Dry

Fee

l

Vol

ume

% P

an

eli

sts

Page 7: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Wet Comb Test Procedure

Wet Combability of Shampoo

Combing Force of Hair (Before vs After Treatment)

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

Load

(gm

f)

Before Treatment

After Treatment

7

%WC reduction = [(WCF control - WCFshampooed)/WCFcontrol ]x 100

control– without shampoo treatment; shampooed-- after shampoo treatment

0

200

400

600

1 90 179

268

357

446

535

624

713

802

891

980

1069

1158

1247

1336

1425

1514

1603

1692

1781

1870

Extension (%)Lo

ad (

gmf)

Page 8: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Dow Objective Wet Comb Study

EcoSmooth™ Silk wet-comb performance is similar to silicone on Asian hair.

80

100

Co

mb

Fo

rce

Re

du

ctio

n %

Wet Comb Force Test on Asian Virgin Hair

Dow Objective Wet Comb Study

Asian Virgin Hair

ALES/ALS/Betaine/CMEA, 0.25%

Cationic Guar

1%

Dimethicone

1% EcoSmooth

Silk

0

20

40

60

80

Co

mb

Fo

rce

Re

du

ctio

n %

Page 9: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Dow Panel Study

EcoSmooth™ Silk also performs on par with silicone on damaged European hair.

100

1% Dimethicone

1% EcoSmooth Silk

Panel Test on European Damaged Hair

Dow Panel Study

European 8-hr Bleached Hair

SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

0.25% Cationic Guar

10 U.S. Panelists

0

20

40

60

80

100

wet f

eel

wet c

om

b

dry

feel

dry

com

b

Vol

ume

% P

an

eli

sts

Page 10: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Dow Panel Study

EcoSmooth™ Silk performs on par with Large Particle Size Silicone on virgin European hair.

100

1% Silk No difference 1% LPS

Panel Test on European Virgin Hair

Dow Panel Study

European Virgin Hair

SLES/CAPB, EGDS,

0.25% Polyquaternium-10

10 European Panelists

0

20

40

60

80

100

Page 11: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Dow Panel Study

EcoSmooth™ Silk performs on par with Small Particle Size Silicone on virgin European hair.

Panel Test on European Virgin Hair

100

1% SPS No difference 1% Silk

Dow Panel Study

European Virgin Hair

SLES/CAPB, EGDS,

0.25% Polyquaternium-10

10 European Panelists

0

20

40

60

80

100

Page 12: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Independent laboratory testing confirms EcoSmooth™ Silk performance.

60

80

100

% R

ed

uct

ion

in

Pe

ak

Lo

ad Wet Comb

60

80

100

% R

ed

uct

ion

in

No

.

Bro

ken

Fib

ers

Dry Hair Breakage Reduction

Dimethicone

EcoSmooth

Silk

0

20

40

% R

ed

uct

ion

in

Pe

ak

Lo

ad

Independent Laboratory Test

SLES/DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic guar / EGDS

Bleached European brown hair

Dimethicone EcoSmooth

Silk

0

20

40

% R

ed

uct

ion

in

No

.

Bro

ken

Fib

ers

Page 13: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

EcoSmooth™ Silk provides better volume, suggesting less build-up than silicone

Panel study evaluating volume after 10 washes.

SLES-2/DSCADA + 0.25% cationic guar + 2% EGDS80

100Build-Up on Hair

EcoSmooth™

Silk

SLES-2/DSCADA + 0.25% cationic guar + 2% EGDS

European Virgin Brown hair

Wash and air dry 10 times

10 panelists

0

20

40

60

% P

an

eli

sts

Dimethicone

Page 14: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

EcoSmooth™ Silk provides better foam volume and less foam reduction

500

600

700

800

900

1000

1% Dimethicone

1% EcoSmooth Silk

Foa

m V

olu

me

(m

l)

Effect on Foam

Foam volume after 3 minute test

Silicone:SLES-2 / DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic Guar /

0

100

200

300

400

500

Initial 3 min

Foa

m V

olu

me

(m

l)

SLES-2 / DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic Guar / 1% DC2-1491 / 2% EGDS

EcoSmooth™ Silk: SLES-2 / DSCADA / 0.25% Cationic Guar / 1% EcoSmooth™ Silk / 2% EGDS

Page 15: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Formulation with EcoSmooth™ SilkEcoSmooth™ Silk can be formulated into most standard surfactant systems

SLES/CAPB ALES/CAPB ALS/CAPB SLES + SLS / CAPB (Cocamidopropyl betaine)

High temperature stability of Silk in formulations requires:• Viscosity > ~5000 cP• Suspension aid

Formulation tipsFormulation tips• Recommend EcoSmooth™ Silk be added at room temperature, after all heating stepsand before reducing pH

Shampoo + cationic guar

+ Silk + EGDS

Shampoo + cationic guar

+ silicone + EGDS

Page 16: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Phase Trade Name % Wt. INCI / CTFA Name Supplier % active

A

Deionized Water 50,00 Water / Aqua -

Versene™ 100 XL (EDTA 38,4%) 0,26 Tetrasodium EDTA Dow Chemical 0,1

EcoSmooth™ 100 0,25 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Dow Chemical 0,25

Citric acid (10% solution) 1,60 Citric acid Prolabo 0,16

Aculyn™ 38 (29% active) 3,45 Acrylates/Vinyl Neodecanoate crosspolymer Dow Chemical 1

Methocel™ 40-0202 (4% solution) 5,00 Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Dow Chemical 0,2

BEmpigen BSFA (30% active) 6,67 Cocamidopropyl betaine Huntsman 2,0

Empicol ESB-70 (70% active) 14,29 Sodium Laureth sulfate Huntsman 10,0

C Cithrol EGDS-PA-(SG) 2,00 Glycol distearate Croda 2,0

D Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) 2,30 Sodium hydroxide Prolabo 0,23

Formulation example

D Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) 2,30 Sodium hydroxide Prolabo 0,23

E EcoSmooth™ Silk (41% active) 2,44Ethylene/Octene Copolymer (and)

Ethylene/Potassium Acrylate CopolymerDow Chemical 1

F Citric acid (10% solution) 2,30 Citric acid Prolabo 0,23

GNeolone™ PE 0,55 Methylisothiazolinone, Phenoxyethanol Dow Chemical 0,55

Amande Douce G10934112 0,10 Parfum / Fragrance Robertet 0,1

H Deionized Water 8,79 Water / Aqua

TOTAL 100,00

Parameter Range Method

pH (as is) 5.9-6.1 pH meter

Viscosity 5000-9000 cPs Brookfield LV, #4, 12 rpm

Appearance white pearlized Visual

ProductCharacteristics

Page 17: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Summary of Key Benefits

EcoSmooth™ Silk , in combination with cationic polymers, gives excellent conditioning performance vs. silicone emulsions at competitive cost to treat. Benefits are observed in Asian, European and Damaged hair

EcoSmooth™ Silk is non-cationic and expected to create less build-up on hair versus silicones

EcoSmooth™ Silk does not contain sulfate or ethylene oxide modification

Page 18: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

More to come …

EcoSmooth™ platform will be extended with :

EcoSmooth ™ SatinEcoSmooth ™ Satin

Please join us at NYSCC Suppliers' Day 2011

to discover a new unique conditioning technology from Dow Personal Care

Page 19: Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care · Re-invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care In Cosmetics, Milan 31 st March 2011 Frédéric de la Torre, ... SLES/DSCADA, EGDS,

Thank You

EcoSmooth™ SilkRe-Invent Conditioning with Dow Personal Care

Visit us at Booth C40

http://www.dow.com/personalcare/ecosmooth_silk/

Appreciation to Susan Jordan, Janet Windisch, Albert Lee, Marie-Laure Breton, Carine Koenig, Courtney Fretz and Fabienne Bizeray of Dow Personal Care for their contributions to this presentation.