Reactive Motorsports Mazda 3 Turbo Kit Installation Guide

Reactive Motorsports Mazda 3Turbo Kit Installation Guide

Tools Required:

Tools10mm wrench Phillips ScrewdriverShort Flat Head Screw Driver Long Flat Head ScrewdriverDeep 15mm Socket 10mm SocketDeep 10mm Socket Standard PliersNeedle Nose Pliers 14mm socket12mm Socket 11mm socket3/8” Ratchet ¼ “Ratchet7/16 Socket Radiator Hose Cutter or Razor BladeWire Stripper Wire CrimperHeat Gun or other Heat Source 6mm Allen wrenchSmall adjustable wrench 1/8” Allen7/8 Wrench Replacement Engine oilSmall Drill Bit or Hole Saw Electric Drill

Installation Instructions:

Please review the Instructions and view the videos before proceeding. If at any time during installation you run into an instruction you do not understand please refer to the installation DVD for helpful install tips. The videos are named according to their content covered. If you are still unsure call Reactive Motorsports or contact your local authorized installation Center.

1. Use 10mm wrench and remove battery and air box. 2. Next using a Philips head screwdriver and remove the battery ducting. 3. Next remove the mass air flow sensor. Use a Phillips head screw driver to

remove the two screws. Set aside the mass air flow sensor and be careful with it as it will be re-installed into one of the intercooler pipes on a later step.

4. Using the Phillips Head screw driver remove the air box. Be sure to release the 4 clips that are on it.

5. Remove the barometric sensor. Remove the line connected to the rear of the valve cover (its travels to the air box). To release the clip squeeze the blue clip and push down and the line should release. Also use a flat head screw driver to remove the zip tie portion that is holding the line from being released.

6. Now the top portion of the air box should be ready for removal. Just simply lift the top of the box out of the engine bay.

7. Now is a good time to use a shop rag to plug the throttle body in order to prevent debris from entering the motor

8. To remove the bottom portion of the air box, remove the clip (looks like a retainer toward the front) now with a little force you should be able to remove the box.

9. Next is installing the injectors and before you do this be sure to clean the area around the fuel rail using brake cleaner or other similar solvent, then wipe it clean or if compressed air is available blow debris and road grime away. This is to prevent contamination of the engine caused by dirt or hardware falling into the engines combustion chamber.

10. Disconnect the electrical connectors on your injectors. With the connectors out of the way remove the two 10mm mounting bolts.

11.The injectors will still have left over fuel in them so be sure to have a towel ready for them to lie on. Before you can remove the fuel rail make sure the cam sensor is disconnected as well as the injector cables and the two 10mm bolts. You should now be ready to remove the rail.

12.To remove the injectors from the fuel rail, use a flat head screw driver and pry on each side of the injector to release the clip. The metal clip will not be reused with the new high flow injectors supplied with the kit. WARNING fuel will come out with the removal of the injector so be sure to plug it until you’re able to put on the new injector. Most installers like to install the injectors one at a time to minimize fuel spill and clean up. Repeat the above process on each injector.

13. that the blue high pressure injectors are installed remove the safety caps and reinstall the injectors and rail in the same manner as you removed them.

14.Next remove the factory hose assembly brackets located on the right side of the valve cover. To remove the bracket you will need to use a 15mm deep socket or a 5/8’s and a 10mm deep socket. The brackets will need to be removed to make room for the intercooler and intake pipes.

15.Next we will reroute the factory coolant lines located on the firewall. The two coolant lines in the rear will be disconnected and cut at the 90 degree bend and replaced with the two provided with the kit along with the couplers. The purpose of this to space the lines from the turbo. Warning a small amount of coolant will come out of the hoses during the install.

16.Exhaust manifold removal. This will be done from the top and the bottom of the car.

17.Disconnect both o2 sensors. 18.Both o2 sensors will be reinstalled into the turbo downpipe. Now use a 10mm

socket to remove bolts that secure the heat shielding to the factory exhaust manifold.

19.With the 10mm bolts removed and the o2 sensors disconnected you should now be able to remove the heat shield.

20.With the Heat Shield removed you can gain access to the factory header. Using a 15mm socket remove the nuts that attach the factory manifold to the cylinder head. These bolts will be reused later to attach the new turbo manifold to the engine. Note one section of the video says 6 nuts but the correct number of nuts to remove is 7.

21.Next remove the two nuts that attach the factory header to the factory exhaust system.

22.You will also have to disconnect the factory rubber exhaust mounts.23.Using a 10mm and a 14mm socket remove small factory cross member that is

located directly below the factory downpipe.24.Remove the 12mm exhaust mount bolts used to secure the factory exhaust

manifold.25.Release the clip securing the o2 sensor to the factory motor mount.26.Remove the two bolts on the passenger side motor mount as well as the ground

cable on the frame rail. This will allow you to slide the engine forward toward the front of the engine compartment making just enough room to remove the factory exhaust manifold out through the top of the engine bay. Warning, do not forget to secure the engine mount and ground after the new turbo and manifold is installed.

27.Remove the two bolts that secure the bracket that was once used to secure factory catalytic converter built into the exhaust manifold. You will not need to

reuse this bracket and it will have to be removed to make room for the new turbo, manifold and downpipe.

28.Next we will install the Intercooler. The factory under-tray needs to be removed to install the intercooler. Once the intercooler is installed you will be able to reuse the factory under tray. To remove the under-tray you will have to remove the factory clips and 10mm bolts securing it in place.

29.The front Radiator shroud will also need to be removed. A Phillips head screw driver is needed to remove the front radiator shroud.

30.The factory radiator ducting on both sides will also need to be removed to make room for the front mount intercooler to be installed. To remove radiator ducting simply remove the10mm bolts that holds them in place.

31.The driver side inner fender well will also have to be removed or at least loosened to make room for the intercooler and to remove the lower ducting that was used with the factory air box. To remove the inner fender liner you simply remove the Phillips head screws, the factory clips and the 10mm bolts that hold them in place. The factory inner fender well will also be reinstalled once the intercooler is in place.

32. With the inner fender well loosened you should now be able to gain access to the 10mm bolts securing the bottom ducting for the air box allowing you to remove the air box.

33.Remove the front driver’s side air duct. To remove the duct simply remove the 10m bolts and factory clip holding it in place. The front bolt can be tricky to get to but most installers just use a long extension that will reach through the grill.

34.Remove the front passenger side air duct. To release the duct remove the 10mm bolt release the factory clip.

35.Next we will prepare the intercooler for installation on to the vehicle by installing the black powder coated intercooler brackets provided with the kit. Using the 2 ¼ 20 nuts and bolts provided with the kit attach the intercooler bracket to the intercooler. Short face side of the bracket facing the intercooler.

36. Install intercooler on vehicle. With an assistant pulling gently on the bottom of the nose of the car lift the intercooler in place and attach 2 8mm left over factory bolts and secure the intercooler bracket to the existing 8mm holes.

37.Turbo install. Place the manifold on a table in order to have the turbo mounted to it. The studs should already be mounted on the manifold. Next place the gasket on then mount the turbo on manifold and hand tighten down with supplied nuts washers and lock washers. Most installers will like to leave the turbo just hand tight then snug up later when making final fit adjustments. Leaving the turbo hand tight may assist you later on in the install when aligning the downpipe and waste gate dump tube.

38.Now with the turbo installed on the manifold you can install the manifold on the vehicle. With the motor mount loose and the engine slid forward from the

previous step of removing the factory manifold the turbo manifold and turbo should easily be install from the top of the vehicle as a unit. Reuse the factory exhaust gasket and manifold nuts that were removed to secure the new turbo manifold in place. Taking the assembled manifold and turbo place the unit back over the studs in the engine compartment where the header was removed. Use the same 7 seven nuts removed earlier to secure the turbo manifold to the engine.

39.Now is a good time to re-install the motor mount and slide the engine back into place.

40.The next step is to the drain the oil in order to install the oil feed and return lines. Lines.

41.After draining the oil completely remove the drain plug and install the supplied drain plug adaptor. Re use the drain plug washer on the new drain plug adaptor.

42.Next attach the oil return line (-10 braided steel line) 90 degree end to oil pan adaptor and the other end to the oil return flange of the turbocharger. Be sure to position line away from drive axle or other moving parts that could damage the line. Warning a damaged oil return line could result in turbo and or engine damage.

43.Next we will install the oil feed line. In order to install the oil feed line we will have to remove the oil filter housing to fit it with the supplied Oil Feed Distribution Block and Oil Feed Distribution 90Degree Adaptor.

44.First disconnect the oil sensor as well as remove the 4 bolts that attach the oil filter housing to the block. After removing the oil filter housing, clean it well and attach supplied T-fitting along with the oil sensor and 90 degree pipe fitting.

45.Attach oil feed line to remaining nipple (the end with the 90 degree bend) once oil filter housing and gasket is reattached to the vehicle, the other end is to be snaked to the top of the vehicle and attached to the oil feed adaptor of the turbo. Warning now that the oils system portion is complete it is a good time to put oil back in your car before you forget. Also be sure there are no moving parts that can damage the oil feed line. Double check your work as a cut or damaged oil feed line can result in engine and or turbo damage.

46.Next we can install the Turbo Waste Gate. A 6mm Allen wrench is needed to secure the turbo systems waste gate. Make both gaskets are in place and hand tighten only to aid in the installation of downpipe. You can also reference the Turbosmart’s instruction on generic waste gate operational instructions.

47.With the manifold, turbo and waste gate hand tight you can now install the downpipe. The downpipe can be snaked up through and put into place from under the vehicle on jack stands or on a lift. Be sure not to forget to put the gasket between the downpipe and turbine discharge of the turbo. Most installers like to tighten each bolt a little at a time to slowly pull the downpipe in. This same

technique of pulling each bolt in slowly alternating back and forth should be used for tightening up the waste gate and turbo.

48.After attaching the downpipe to the waste gate and turbo make sure to reconnect existing 02 sensors that were on the original factory exhaust manifold.

49.With the manifold, turbo, waste gate and downpipe all secure and the intercooler in place now is a good time to install the 3 intercooler pipes. Most installers like to start with the intercooler pipe that attaches directly to the outlet of the turbo's compressor.

50.Before this pipe is installed now is a good time to install the 3” 90 Degree silicone adaptor on the intake side of the turbo. This pipe can be identified by the long mounting tap attached to it that will later be used to secure this pipe to the transaxle (transmission) with the existing transmission bolt. Identify the 2” to 2.5” 90 degree silicone adaptor and slide it onto the compressor housing on the 2” side. Slide the two hose clamps that will be used onto the silicone adaptor. Slide the 2.5” intercooler pipe into the coupler so that the tab is close to lining up with its mounting point on the transmission. Most installers like to leave the tightening of all the hose clamps last to leave room for fine adjustment of the silicone and pipes.

51.With the first intercooler pipe in place now it is time to move on to the second intercooler pipe. The second 2.5” intercooler pipe to be used is shaped like a “J” and has no tabs or brackets attached to it. This pipe will attach to the first intercooler pipe using a straight 2.5” silicone coupler on the straight end and will attach to the passenger side of the intercooler on the other side with another 2.5” straight silicone coupler. A good trick for getting the Silicone and pipe on is to slide the silicone completely on one pipe and then when they line up slide the silicone over. It is also a good idea to leave the hose clamps loose until you fit your final pipe.

52.With the second pipe installed it is time to install the third and last intercooler pipe. The third intercooler pipe can be identified by the mass air and blow off valve flanges that are attached to it. Before you install the third pipe use the 2 10/32 Allen head screws provided with the kit to mount the mass air sensor to the intercooler pipe. You must also attach the blow off valve to the pipe. To attach the blow off valve simply loosen the nuts at the bottom of the blow off valve and slide it over the flange then re-secure the bolts locking it in place.

53.Now that the mass air sensor and blow off valve is attached to the 3rd intercooler pipe you can now install it into the car. Use the 2.75” to 2.5” silicone adaptor on the throttle body side with the 2.75” end of the coupler on the throttle body and the 2.5” side to the top of the pipe. On the bottom of the pipe that attaches to the driver’s side of the intercooler use a straight 2.5” silicone coupler.

54.Now that all the intercooler pipes are installed now is a good time to go back and verify your install and tighten all your hose clamps and the bolt on the mounting tab that attaches secures the pipe 2.5” intercooler pipe to the transmission.

55.Before we move onto the Intake pipe now is a good time to extend the mass air sensor buy carefully cutting open the factory wire loom and release a couple inches of slack allowing the mass air sensor to be plugged in. Go ahead and plug in the mass air sensor once it is extended.

56. Install intake pipe and filter. Before you install the intake pipe it first has to be prepared for the vehicle by attaching the provided high flow air filter with the hose clamp that was included with you kit. The 90 Degree silicone adaptor should already be in place on the turbo’s intake port from a previous step. Place the curved end of the 3” intake pipe down into the 3” 90 degree silicone coupler and secure with the provided hose clamps.

57.Next we will secure the intake pipe with the provided 3” t-bolt clamp. To mount the t-bolt clamp simply remove the nut from the t-bolt clamp and wrap it around the pipe and pass the threaded end through the intercooler pipe tab and tighten the nut in place securing the intake pipe to the tab. The final connection to be made for the intake is the ½ port. Attach this port to the crank case vent using the provided ½ hose.

58.With the turbo system in place we can now move on to the wiring of the PCS XFC (Xtended Fuel Controller). Your XFC comes preprogrammed for your turbo kit and will only need to be wired into your factory harness to start controlling your high flow injectors.

59.Connections for the xfc will be made at the ecu harness located under the plastic cover next to the battery tray. Using your supplied wiring diagram make the necessary connection per your year and model using the provided but connectors and heat shrink tube. One thing to notice about the wiring diagram is there are three types of connections; an intercept, a splice, or a terminal.

60.After all wire connections are made store the XFC in the battery box and reattach the ECU cover and battery cover.

61.With all the turbo components and electronics in place we can now install our Vacuum/Boost control lines. Using the provided 4mm silicone line and vacuum tees hook up the Boost gauge, Waste Gate (bottom port), 3 Bar MAP sensor and blow off valve to intake manifold. The port on the intake manifold can be found on the 4th runner of the intake manifold. You will have to remove the factory cap to use this port. You will also have to run a vacuum line into the interior of the vehicle through the firewall to the A-Pillar. Once all connections are made go back and secure vacuum hose connections with the provided zip ties.

62.Next is the installation of the A-Pillar and Gauge Pod. Reference the manufacturer’s directions for installing the a-pillar mount and boost gauge. Complete the install by just loosening the A-Pillar trim panel by prying lightly on it.

Then use a small drill bit or hole saw to drill a hole to allow wiring and the supplied vacuum line that you have run through the fire wall and attached to a vacuum tee fitting in the engine compartment. Use a test light to find a good 12v power source and ground. Most use the wire bundle in the kick panel then run a wire up to the a-pillar for 12v and ground. With your gauge pod mounted and all wires connected slide your gauge into place and test its operation.

63.Re-Gap factory spark plugs to .02864.Check all you work and when you are confident that all work was performed

correctly go ahead and start up your vehicle. Verify that your boost gauge is working. While the car is idling you should be able to read that the engine is pulling vacuum. Also verify that you do not have any coolant, oil or air leaks. If you do have any leaks fix them before you continue testing.

65. If your gauge is working take the car for a ride and verify that the turbo system is working correctly.

66.Your boost gauge should read close to 7 psi at full boost and should never go over 8psi for any reason. If you read 8psi or over your system is not hooked up correctly and you need to verify your installation. If you do not read any boost your system is not working correctly and you need to verify your install.

67. It is also a good idea to verify the tune up on your car with a wideband o2 sensor. Your Air/Fuel readings should be in the 14’s at idle, at light throttle and at cruising. You should see your Air fuel ratios progressively get richer as you build boost. At full boost you should never see any leaner then 12’s and never any richer then 10’s.

If all tuning and boost issues are resolved enjoy you newly turbocharged Mazda 3.