recipes from the tuscan sun cookbook by frances mayes
TRANSCRIPT
8/3/2019 Recipes From the Tuscan Sun Cookbook by Frances Mayes
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Copyright © 2012 by Frances Mayes
and Edward Mayes
Photographs copyright © 2012 by
Steven Rothfeld
Al l rig hts reserved .
Published in t he United States by
Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint
of the Crown Publishin g Group, a
division of R andom House, Inc.,
New York.
ww w.crownpubl ish ing.com
ww w.clarksonpotter.com
Clarkson Potter is a trademark and
Potter with colophon is a reg istered
trademark of Ra ndom House, Inc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-
Publication Data
Mayes, Frances, and Edward Mayes.
The Tuscan sun cookbook / Frances
Mayes and Edward Mayes; photographs
by Steven Rothfeld. — 1st ed.
1. Cooking, Italian—Tuscan style.
2. Cookbooks. I. Mayes, Edward
Kleinschm idt. II. Title.
TX723.2.T86M394 2012
641.5955’5—dc22 2011013195
ISBN 978-0-307-88528-9
eISBN 978-0-307-95386-5
Printed in China
Design by Mar ysarah Quinn Photograp hs by Steven Ro thfeld
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
first edition
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50 [ the tuscan sun cookbook
FRIED ARTICHOKES
As a Southerner, to me the words “deep fried” are an enchanting combination. We never met an
artichoke, when I was growing up, except the kind that was marinated in a jar. Still, carciofi
fritti seem like soul food.
At the Thursday market in season, vendors, many of whom have driven their tr ucks all night from
Puglia, sell five sizes of artichokes. For stuf fing with bread, herbs, and tomatoes, I buy the largest
ones. For frying, the smallest, purple-tinged violetti or morellini are best. Tiny violetti, sliced raw and
dressed, make an astr ingent crunchy salad, which exemplifies the Tuscan preference for bitter tastes.
For these fried beauties, remember that the stem is as tasty as the heart. Sometimes four or five
inches long, the stems can be peeled with a vegetable peeler. Cut each artichoke in half, leaving the
stem attached. If they’re small enough, fr y them like this. If not, slice each in ha lf again, paring off any
choke. Be sure to remove all tough outer leaves.
Matching wine with ar tichokes is daunting, but we’ve tried fried artichokes with Friulano, formerly
called Tocai, the darling of the province of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. The usual suggestion, however,
is a Gewürztraminer.
SERVES 4
batter for frying (page 49)
2 cups peanut or sunflower oil, for frying
15 very small artichokes
coarse salt to taste
lemon wedges, for garnish
Prepare the batter and let it rest for 20 minutes.
In a medium skillet, heat the oil to 350°F.Strip all tough outer leaves from the artichokes and cut away the top third. Trim off
any sharp tips from the lower leaves. Halve or quarter the artichokes.
Dip the artichokes in the batter, and then slide them into the oil. Fry the artichokes in
batches until crisp and browned, about 4 minutes, depending on size. When done,
remove them to paper towels to drain, salt immediately, then pile them on a board and
pass with wedges of lemon.
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70 [ the tuscan sun cookbook
Giusi’s RAGÙ
Slow and easy—long-simmered ragù is the quintessential Tuscan soul food. There are as many
ways with ragù as there are cooks. This is ours, learned originally from Giusi, who’s made it a
thousand times. By now, I think we have, too. On many Saturday mornings, Ed makes a huge pot of
ragù —tripling, qu adrupling the recipe—and another of tomato sauce. We consider these our natural
resources. For lunch, while the pots are still on the stove, we spoon ragù over bruschetta, add some
cheese, and run it under the broiler. By afternoon, we’re ready to fill several glass containers of
different sizes and freeze them. We’re then free to pull one out during the workweek.
Serve ragù in lasagne or over spaghetti and, as you eat, you know you’re participating in a commu-
nal rite that’s being enacted all over the Italian peninsula.
SERVES 10
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound ground lean beef
1 pound ground pork
2 italian sausages, casings removed
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
1 to 2 cups red wine
1 cup soffritto (page 20)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
16 to 20 tomatoes or 2 28-ounce cans whole tomatoes, juice
included, chopped
Pour the olive oil into a 4-quart heavy pot with a lid. Over medium-high heat, brown themeats, breaking up the sausage with a wooden spoon, about 10 minutes. Add the salt,
pepper, thyme, and 1 cup of the red wine. After the wine has cooked into the meat, about
10 minutes, add the soffritto, and stir in the tomato paste and tomatoes.
Bring the sauce to a boil, and then lower to a quiet simmer. Partially cover, and
continue cooking for 3 hours, stirring now and then. Along the way, add the remaining
cup of wine if you think the sauce is too dense.
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secondi \ 117
CHICKEN with OLIVES
and TOMATOES
This is the little
black dress in a
cook’s repertoire—
always right.
Take Querciabella,Chianti Classico DOCG,
a biodynamic wine, off
the shelf for this olive-
studded chicken.
SERVES 4
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, cut into 8 pieces, dredged
in about ½ cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper ½ cup red wine
1 cup mixed black and green olives, pitted
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 cup chopped oven-roasted tomatoes (see page 42)
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and brown the
chicken pieces, 2 minutes on each side. Season with the salt and pepper. Add the
wine, raise the heat to high for 1 minute, and then transfer every thing to a 9 x 13-inch
baking dish.
In a small bowl, mix the olives, parsley, and tomatoes, and pour this over the chicken.
Bake uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces, turning the
chicken once.
Combine the garlic and parsley in a small bowl with the zest,
2 tablespoons of the olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Set aside.
In a large bowl, mix the marinade ingredients. Lay the chicken flat, skin side up, on
your work surface. Stuff the garlic mixture under the skin and place the chicken in the
marinade. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours or, even better, overnight. Turn it two or
three times.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a heatproof cast-iron pan large
enough to hold the chicken. I use a 14-inch cast-iron skillet. Place the chicken breast side
up and weight it down with two clean bricks wrapped in foil. Cook over medium heat for
10 minutes, and then place the pan and bricks in the oven for 20 minutes. Remove the
weights and turn the chicken over, cooking another 20 minutes or so, until crispy and
richly browned, about 50 minutes total. Remove the chicken to a platter and cut into
serving pieces. Deglaze the pan with the wine and pour the juices over the chicken.
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STRAWBERRY SEMIFREDDO
Not gelato, not
sorbetto—semi-
freddo occupies a niche.
The light and creamy
texture melts fast in your
mouth, leaving the
essential freshness of
the fruit. It’s easy, too,
since you need no ice
cream machine. Semi-
freddo keeps well in the
freezer for a week.
SERVES 8
1½ pints strawberries, hulled
1 tablespoon orange juice
1¼ cups sugar
4 eggs
¼ cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup (4 ounces) mascarpone
1½ cups heavy cream
Purée the strawberries (reserving and refrigerating several pretty
ones) with the orange juice and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Chill the
purée in a large bowl until ready to use.
Bring water almost to a boil in the bottom of a double boiler, then
lower the heat to a good simmer. In the top, beatthe eggs with the remaining sugar, the milk,
and vanilla. Whisk continuously for 10 to
14 minutes, or until the mixture thickens and
forms trailing ribbons. Reserve ¼ cup of the
strawberry purée, then whisk the egg mixture
into the purée. Cool the mixture in the fridge
about 1½ hours.
Line a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap,
leaving a few inches overhanging the sides. When the strawberry-egg mixture has
cooled, whisk in the mascarpone. In a separate
bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form.
Fold the cream into the strawberry and mascar-
pone mixture.
Pour the semifreddo into the pan, and freeze
for at least 4 hours. Unmold by loosening the
plastic wrap, then inverting the pan onto a
serving dish. Add the reserved strawberries tothe remaining ¼ cup strawberry purée and
spoon this over the semifreddo in the dish or
over individual servings.
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