recognising plant families and identifying plants …...recognising plant families and identifying...
TRANSCRIPT
RECOGNISING PLANT FAMILIES AND IDENTIFYING PLANTS
Aim
Distinguish between different plant families and to become proficient at identifying plants.
The best way to build your ability to identify plants is by working with or handling a variety of different
plants on a daily basis.
The first ten plant names you learn are always much more difficult than the next ninety.
Similarly, the first 100 names are always much more difficult than the next 900.
If you plan to be a skilled gardener, landscape designer, or horticulturist: you need to learn to identify
hundreds of different plants.
As you have seen earlier; there is a system in identifying plant names.
BECOME FAMILIAR WITH PLANT FAMILIES
If you can get to know the way the system works, and the broad categories, the whole thing starts to
make a great deal more sense. Each new name you confront is able to be associated with things and
remembered more easily.
FOR EXAMPLE:
“When I see a plant with a daisy flower, I immediately know that it is in the Asteraceae family.
Even if the genus is new to me, I will be more likely to remember it because I’m not only thinking: This is
the genus of this new plant, but I am also thinking: This new genus is in the Asteraceae family.
In essence, my brain is registering two pieces of information instead of one and that doubles the
likelihood of me remembering the plant.
BECOME FAMILIAR WITH LATIN
Plant naming is based on the ancient Roman language of Latin.
For most people scientific names are a foreign language when they start learning them.
In the same way that it can be hard to pronounce a French or Chinese word for the language student it
can be difficult to pronounce a new plant name for the horticulture student.
The horticulture student has one huge advantage though. It doesn’t really matter how you pronounce
plant names. The system of plant naming is all about how you write them, and experts all over the world
pronounce the same names all sorts of different ways.
As you become familiar with different names and more comfortable with using them, it then becomes a
great deal easier to read, remember, and even pronounce new names that you come across.
ONCE YOU KNOW THE PLANT FAMILY, IT’S A LOT EASIER TO FIND OUT THE GENUS
YOUR FIRST AIM
Your first important task should be to learn some of the most common plant families, and the things that
distinguish plants as belonging to that family.
When you know a plant belongs to the Asteraceae family, in an attempt to identify it, you may only need
to look through photographs in 2% of a book, of plants belonging to that family. If you don’t know what
family it belongs to though, you may need to look through the entire book.
The first step is to determine if the plant is an Angiosperm (flowering plant) or not.
Angiosperms are plants that produce flowers, and these make up most of our garden and crop plants.
Plants that are not angiosperms include Ferns, Conifers, Mosses and Algae. None of these plants
produce a flower.
If the plant is an Angiosperm it will either be a Dicotyledon or a Monocotyledon.
You can tell these two groups apart easily as follows:
MONOCOTYLEDON CHARACTERISTICS DICOTYLEDON CHARACTERISTICS
When a seed germinates, only one leaf
(ie. cotyledon) emerges from the seed at first.
When a seed germinates, two leaves emerge with the
first growth.
Leaf veins usually run parallel to each other Leaves normally have branching veins that fan out
and are not parallel to each other (but there are
exceptions)
The stem doesn’t form growth rings The stem forms growth rings. (ie. if you cut through
the trunk of a tree, you can tell the number of years it
has lived by counting the rings)
Flower parts usually occur in multiples of three
(eg. three petals) –but there are exceptions
Number of flower parts vary from family to family
Has a fibrous root system Has a main tap root with lateral branches
EXAMPLES OF MONOCOTYLEDONS EXAMPLES OF DICOTYLEDONS
Daffodil, Tulip, Grasses, Hippeastrum, Sedges
Eucalyptus, Maple, African Violet, Pea, Cucumber
WHAT IS THE WOOD LIKE?
Another major way to distinguish plants is by the hardness or softness of the tissue.
CHARACTERISTICS OF WOODY PLANTS HERBACEOUS PLANT CHARACTERISTICS
Older wood in stems is hard.
It would be difficult for the average person to
crush even a small piece of stem (say 5mm
thick) between your fingers.
Older wood is soft.
Stems are difficult to mark significantly with
your finger nails
Stems are easy to mark with your finger nails
When you crush wood (not leaves), not much
moisture is squeezed out
When a stem (not leaf) is crushed, drops of moisture
can be squeezed out.
Mostly Dicotyledons Includes most monocotyledons, and some
dicotyledons as well.
TRY LEARNING THE FOLLOWING FLOWERING PLANT FAMILIES TO START WITH:
Some plant families are more common than others. Some families are also very easy to recognise. Try
learning the characteristics of the following common plant families:
AMARYLLIDACEAE
• Monocotyledons
• Contains more than 65 genera
• Most are herbaceous
• Most are small clump forming herbs or bulbs
• Leaves are usually narrow, often strap like
• Flowers have what looks like 6 petals surrounding a cup or tube like crown (in fact these are three
petals and three sepals). The cup is more obvious in some genera than others.
• Flowers have 6 stamens
• Genera in this family include: Alstroemeria, Amaryllis, Clivia, Cooperia, Crinum, Cyrtanthus, Eucharis,
Galanthus, Haemanthus, Hymenocallis, Hypoxis, Lycoris, Narcissus, Nerine, Sprekelia, Vallota and
Zephranthes.
These strappy leaves are common in the Amaryllidaceae family
Typical flowers of the Amaryllidaceae family
ARACEAE
• Commonly called “Aroids”
• Monocotyledons
• Most are herbaceous
• Contains around 115 genera
• Leaves are usually roughly heart shaped
• Fruit is a berry
• Flowers are small and clustered into a spike (often a finger like protrusion), with a single often colourful
leafy like structure. These are commonly called “spathe” flowers.
• Genera include Acorus, Anthurium, Calla, Caladium, Calocasia, Diffenbachia, Philodendron,
Syngonium, Zantedeschia
A typical Araceae leaf
A typical flower of the Araceae family, showing the distinctive spike and surrounding spadix
ASTERACEAE (formerly called Compositae)
• Commonly known as Daisies
• Dicotyledons
• Many are herbaceous, but not all.
• A very large family of about 800 genera and 12,000 species.
• Flowers are actually a composite of several small flowers fused together to appear as one flower.
• If the flower is pulled apart it can be seen that it is made up of several individual units, each one having
its own set of floral parts (ie. petal, stamen, stigma, ovary etc). Some Asteraceae flowers are
incomplete and have only some of the floral parts. Typically, the outer flowers have “ray florets”, which
look like the petals of the “larger” composite flower.
• Leaf shapes vary a lot.
• Many have a white milk sap –but there are many exceptions
• Genera include Achillea, Aster, Bellis, Chrysanthemum, Cinneraria, Centaurea, Coreopsis, Dahlia,
Erigeron, Helianthus (Sunflower), Helichrysum, Lettuce(Lactuca), Tagates (Marigold), Pyrethrum,
Rhodanthe, Rudbeckia, Senecio, Tansy (Tanacetum), and Zinnia
Typical “flowers” from the Asteraceae family – really these flower heads are each one, made up of a lot of
individual flowers joined together to create what looks like a single flower.
ERICACEAE (Heath Family)
• Commonly called the Heath Family
• Dicotyledons
• Around 70 genera and 2000 species, but tens of thousands of named cultivars.
• Most are shrubs or small trees, with woody stems.
• Occur mostly in cooler places (eg. temperate climates or mountain regions in the tropics)
• Grow naturally and best on organic acid soil.
• Leaves are frequently evergreen, and often more or less leathery (but there are plenty of exceptions)
• Leaves normally alternate up the stem (sometimes whorled, rarely opposite)
• Flowers have 4 to 5 sepals and 4 to 5 petals arranged evenly, often tube like.
• The fruit is frequently a capsule, but sometimes a berry.
• Genera include Andromeda, Arbutus, Calluna, Daboecia, Erica, Kalmia, Pieris, Rhododendron (which
includes Azalea), and Vaccinium (ie. Blueberry)
Rhododendron
Erica
LAMIACEAE (= Labiatae)
• Commonly called the Mint family.
• Dicotyledons
• Many are herbaceous
• Includes around 160 genera and 3000 species.
• Stems are roughly four sided (i.e. similar to a square or rectangle in cross section).
• Leaves are simple (ie. not divided like a pinnate leaf), and are whorled.
• Flowers are two lipped (ie. Half of the petals are larger and fused to make the top section and the
other half smaller, joined together to make a lower section.
• Often the foliage is covered with small dots containing a volatile oil. This allows identification by smell
when leaves are crushed
• Genera include: Coleus, Lavendula (Lavender), Mentha (Mints), Origanum (Oregano and Marjoram),
Plectranthus, Prostranthera, Rosmarinus (Rosemary), Salvia (Sage)Thymus (Thyme), Westringia.
Typical Lamiaceae plants
FABACEAE (= Papilionaceae)
• Commonly called the Pea family
• A Dicotyledon
• Includes both herbaceous and woody plants
• The 'Peas' were reclassified in recent years, splitting the one old family Leguminosae (ie. Legumes),
into three new families (ie. Caesalpinaceae, Mimosaceae and Fabaceae or Papilionaceae). Many
people still use the old name though.
• All legumes are characterised by a pod type fruit.
• There are around 500 different genera of legumes
• Fabaceae flowers are pea shaped, with 5 sepals and 5 petals. Unlike other legumes, 2 of the 5 petals
are joined to form a “keel” or boat like structure. The other 3 petals are free or separate one from the
other
• Fabaceae genera include: Arachis (Peanut), Cytisus (Broom), Dillwynia, Glycine (Soybean),
Hardenbergia, Kennedya, Medicago (Lucerne), Phaseolus (Pea and Bean), Trifolium (Clover),
Wisteria.
Examples of Legumes
MORE PLANT FAMILIES TO GET TO KNOW
BRASSICACEAE (= Crucifereae)
• Dicotyledons
The Brassicas include about 200 genera and 1800 species from temperate and sub-arctic regions. All
are herbaceous (ie. soft wooded) and most are annuals. Flowers are small, but in large numbers,
therefore, conspicuous. They are complete, regular and hypogenous. There are four sepals and four
petals. There are six stamens, four longer than the other two (eg. Cabbage, Turnip, Radish, Mustard,
Kale, Kohl rabi, Wild turnip etc).
SOLANACEAE
• A Dicotyledon
• Includes both herbaceous and woody plants.
The Solanum family includes such things as tomato, potato, capsicum, egg plant, petunia, belladonna,
tobacco and weeds like deadly nightshade. The flowers are generally five lobed (ie. 5 petals and 5
sepals).
ROSACEAE
• A Dicotyledon
• Most are woody, but there are exceptions.
The Rose family includes a wide variety of genera commonly used in amenity horticulture (e.g. Rose,
Prunus, Pyracantha, Cydonia, Malus, Cotoneaster, Spirea, Geum etc). There are trees, shrubs and
herbaceous perennials all represented in this family. Flowers are generally regular, and the parts are
borne on a floral disc. Fruits are usually soft or berry like encasing a hard seed.
RUTACEAE
• A Dicotyledon.
• Commonly known as the Citrus family.
• Around 150 genera, and over 1,600 species
• Occur from tropics to temperate areas, particularly from Australia and Africa.
• Most are woody shrubs and trees, but some are herbaceous.
• Leaves are scented, dotted with oil glands.
• Flowers have 4 or 5 sepals and 4 or 5 petals.
• Flowers normally have 10 stamens, but sometimes 8.
• Genera include: Boronia, Calodendron, Choisya, Citrus, Coleonema (Diosma), Correa, Crowea,
Diplolaena, Eriostemon, Evodia, Fortunella, Geijera, Murraya, Phebalium, Ruta (Rue), and Zieria.
MYRTACEAE
• A Dicotyledon
• Most are woody.
The Myrtle family is very significant among Australian and Asian plants. Foliage characteristically has oil
glands (seen as small faint dots on the leaf), and if bruised, a characteristic aroma can be detected.
Petals on the flowers are usually insignificant. Examples of genera include: Eucalyptus, Callistemon,
Melaleuca, Agonis, Angophera, Tristania, Astartea, Thryptomene, Bauera, Baeckea, Micromyrtus,
Leptospermum, Eugenia, Myrtus, Feijoa, etc.
PROTEACEAE
• A Dicotyledon
The Protea family also tends to have insignificant petals and like the myrtles, is well represented in
Australian and African flora. These plants tend to have dry, thick leaves. Seeds are large having a mass
of furry hairs attached. Examples of genera include: Protea, Leucadendron, Leucospermum, Banksia,
Leucopogon, Isopogon, Telopea, Dryandra, etc.
ORCHIDACEAE
• A Monocotyledon
• Herbaceous plants
The Orchids include around 15,000 species, mainly from warmer climates, but with some extending into
colder temperate regions. Flowers are showy and complex. The corolla is irregular. The stamens unite
with the pistil to form a structure called the column. All forms are perennial and have thickened roots, or
tuberous or bulbous roots.
LILIACEAE
• A Monocotyledon
• Herbaceous plants
The Lilies include some 2000 species, many being bulbs commonly cultivated for amenity purposes. The
flowers have 6 petals, usually separate, but sometimes fused (joined). The ovary is superior (sits above
the point where you find the base of the petals). Examples include: Asparagus, Allium (onions), Tulipifera
(Tulip), Hyacinthus (Hyacinth), Lilium and Aloe
POACEAE (=Graminae)
• A Monocotyledon
• Most are herbaceous, but not all
The Grasses include around 4500 species. Most are herbaceous though a few are woody (such as the
bamboos).
These include some of our most significant crop plants e.g. wheat, barley and oats.
HOW MANY PLANTS DO YOU NEED TO KNOW?
*This depends on the type of job you have
• Most good horticulture certificates will teach you to identify at least 250 different plants
• Most good diplomas will teach you how to identify at least 1000 different plants.
• A retail nursery may sell 500 to several thousand different plants, and would expect their staff to
be familiar with the majority of plants that are being sold.
• A home garden on a 1000 square metre or quarter acre block of land could contain several dozen
to several hundred different plants. A landscape designer or contractor should be able to identify
all of the plants they are working with.
OTHER WAYS TO LEARN TO IDENTIFY MORE PLANTS
Like most things in life, the more you see a plant, the more likely you are to remember it.
Watch plant identification videos and make notes of what you see.
Check out what is available through our bookshop: http://www.acsbookshop.com
Look at our online plant directory: http://www.acsgarden.com
People who work in nurseries, or visit and browse at nurseries will find it so much easier to learn plant
names than someone who rarely ventures away from a book or computer. Visit some nurseries, and
read the plant labels.
When you propagate, pot up and give away (or sell) dozens of the same plant, the name tends to be
remembered more easily.
Start a Plant Collection. In many of our standard Distance Education courses, we require you to put
together and submit a plant collection. This is a technique that is widely used by other schools around the
world. Even if you do not undertake such a collection as part of a course, it can still be a great way to
build your plant knowledge.
Visit gardens and garden shows and make notes of anything you see (take photos if you can).
Join a garden club, society or association. Mixing and talking with other people who can identify plants
will help develop your own ability.
Visit your local botanical gardens where plants are labelled with their scientific names. When travelling,
visit the botanic gardens in different cities to learn more about different plant varieties and how they grow
in different climates/locations.
WHAT CAN YOU GROW WHERE?
The following selections of plants come from a wide range of climates.
You should be able to find something on this list to grow in most parts of the world.
These articles are presented to raise your awareness of how different environmental factors might affect what can be grown where. You need to consider the fact that such factors don’t only reflect the country or region you come from; but also lots of other considerations that can vary from place to place, even within the one small garden.
GROWING PLANTS IN THE SHADE
One of the many bonuses of trees in the garden is the lovely cool shade they provide over summer.
However, shade from large trees can also cause a range of different problems for plants and gardens:
• Reduced light can restrict plant growth. Many plants in shaded areas will appear weak and leggy, with
poor flowering.
• Shaded areas are cooler than adjacent open areas. Whilst this is generally a benefit to the garden,
growth in shaded areas may be slow in cool climates.
• Shade encourages the growth of moss and algae on the ground (including paths), making them
slippery.
• Water in shaded areas does not dry up so readily.
• Roots from large shade trees compete with smaller plants growing below them.
• Soil under trees can be quite dry, as the overhanging leaf canopy prevents water penetration.
• Foliage from some trees (e.g. conifers) may be toxic to plants below.
• Roots of some trees may give off toxins which inhibit growth of other plants (e.g. Mulberry).
• Leaf or branch drop from trees may smother or damage low-growing plants below.
• Trees restrict ventilation (air movement), which may encourage disease problems in shaded areas.
PLANTS SUITED TO FULL SHADE
Acalypha wilkesiana Agapanthus
Bauera rubioides Begonia
Boronia mollis Bromeliads
Camellia Chlorophytum
Clivia Convallaria (Lily of the valley)
Cotoneaster dammeri Cotoneaster dielsiana
Dampiera diversifolia Daphne odora
Epacris impressa Euphorbia wulfenii
Galanthus (snowdrops) Gyneura sarmentosa
Hedera (Ivy) Helleborus (Christmas rose)
Hosta Hydrangea
Iresine herbstii Impatiens
Iris cristata Kennedya prostrata
Lamium Nandina domestica
Pieris japonica Plumbago capensis
Philodendron Primula
Ranunculus Saxifraga
Selaginella Tetratheca ciliata
Thryptomene Vinca major (Periwinkle)
FERNS GROW WELL IN SHADE
Ferns are ideal for growing in shady areas as they are naturally adapted to growing in conditions of low
light. Different varieties can tolerate different levels of shade and soil moisture, so use the following lists
to choose ferns which suit your particular problem area.
You can find ferns suited for growing in most climates from tropical to very cold climates.
Sun Tolerant Varieties
Ferns are rarely suited to full sun, though the following will perform reasonably well with some direct
sunlight in morning and afternoon.
They will need filtered sunlight in the hottest part of the day and at the hottest time of the year.
Hardy to full sun if soil remains moist and humidity is high:
Blechnum occidentale, Cibotium glaucum, Dicksonia antarctica, Dryopteris noveboracensis, Osmunda
(all varieties), Pteridium aquilinum and Sphaeropteris cooperi.
Hardy with some shading in the hottest part of the day:
Davallia trichomanoides, Doodia media, Dryopteris erythrosora,Nephrolepsis cordifolia, Pellaea (most
species),
Platycerium (most species), Polypodium aureum, Polystichum polyblepharum, Pteris cretica, Pteris vittata
and Todea barbara.
Dry Soil Ferns
All ferns perform better with cool, moist soil. Some ferns however, can tolerate drier and more exposed
conditions:
Blechnum occidentale, Davallia trichomanoides, Nephrolepsis cordifolia, Polypodium aurea, Pteridium
aquilinium, Pteris cretica, Pteris vittata, Woodwardia fimbriata.
GROWING PLANTS IN EXPOSED COASTAL GARDENS
You’re on holidays at the beach house, or you live in a coastal town, and you’re having problems
growing plants in the garden. Maybe your plants are yellowing, burnt or stunted, or possibly you can’t
even get them established in the first place. If this sounds familiar, we’ll give you some ideas on how to
overcome common problems in growing plants by the coast.
Firstly, you may need to change your expectations. You can’t grow the same range of plants that
flourish a few kilometres inland – many plants simply can’t tolerate the salt levels, dry sandy soil and
wind exposure of the coast. If your ideal garden is a lush green lawn surrounded by roses and azaleas,
forget it - you’ll always be struggling against the natural conditions and it’s unlikely that you’ll ever
achieve a really healthy and attractive garden. It’s better to choose plants adapted to seaside growing
and modify the site to encourage these to grow to the best of their ability.
Depending on how close you are to the sea, and how exposed your garden is, there are several
problems which you will need to deal with. The most severe are high salt levels both in the soil, and
carried in wind and water sprays, and physical damage from strong winds.
Dealing with Salt
Salt is carried by wind and is deposited on the plants and onto the soil. It can cause severe leaf burn
and defoliation. Over time the plants become stunted and fail to thrive, especially those growing on the
seaward side. The problem is compounded as salt accumulates in the soil.
Choosing salt-hardy plants and blocking the passage of salt-laden wind are the best strategies. The
plant lists below will help you to select appropriate plant species.
Creating Wind Breaks
Coastal winds damage plants in several ways:
• causing physical damage to limbs, especially in storms
• causing stunting (shortened limbs and small leaves), as a result of long-term exposure
• carrying salt deposits that accumulate on foliage
• carrying sand that abrades leaf tissues, resulting in leaf drop and shoot dieback (often called wind
pruning)
• carrying salt deposits that accumulate in the soil
A barrier that prevents or slows down the prevailing wind, therefore, is paramount in a coastal garden.
A good windbreak greatly enhances the variety of plants that can be grown in the garden.
Solid fences and walls are useful because they can be erected quickly. These include brick walls and
timber or brush fences. A drawback is that they can create turbulence as the wind is forced up and over
the fence. A permeable fence (i.e. a fence that wind can move through) is a better choice as it will filter
the wind and reduce its speed. Shade cloth, lattice and hessian (as a temporary measure) are good
choices.
Growing hardy salt tolerant plants as frontline protection against wind is the best long-term windbreak.
A mixture of shrubs and trees that filter the wind is better than using a solid line of one species. Plants
also have the advantage that they bind the soil, reducing soil erosion. Some of the hardiest plants to
use are those that are indigenous to the area (they are native to the area and are accustomed to the
local conditions).
Other Strategies for Growing Coastal Plants
• Tree guards
Plastic tree guards or shade cloth supported by stakes will help protect newly planted trees and shrubs.
• Growing in containers
Salt sensitive plants can be grown in pots. Use a good quality potting mix and preferably place the pot
in a sheltered spot, away from salt laden winds.
• Conserving moisture
Even if your garden receives regular amounts of rain, the plants can still suffer from water shortage.
Sandy soils are very free draining, so adding organic materials and using surface mulches is important.
Seaweed is the most obvious choice for a mulching material – it’s free and is usually plentiful, but it
needs to have any surface salt washed off before you use it. Many soils consisting of high levels of fine
sand commonly are water repelling, particularly when they have been allowed to dry out. Water from
irrigation or rain will sit on the surface in puddles, or run away down slope without much infiltrating into
the soil. They are said to be hydrophobic. This problem can be overcome by the addition of wetting
agents (ask at a nursery to see such products)
• Installation of a drip irrigation system will also help plants establish and grow.
• Fertilisers
Coastal soils are generally impoverished and have limited capacity to retain applied nutrients. Organic
materials are useful; also apply slow release fertilisers (eg. blood and bone or Osmocote) to promote
growth.
Hardy Seaside Plants
Trees
Acacia longifolia var. sophorae (Coast Wattle)
Agonis flexuosa (Willow Myrtle)
Allocasuarina littoralis, A. torulosa, A. verticillata (Drooping She Oak)
Araucaria bidwilli (Bunya Bunya Pine), A. cunninghamii (Hoop Pine), A. heterophylla (Norfolk Island
Pine)
Arbutus unedo (Irish Strawberry Tree)
Banksia integrifolia (Coastal Banksia), B. serrata
Callistemon viminalis (Weeping Bottlebrush)
Callitris columellaris (Coast Cypress Pine)
Casuarina cunninghamiana, C. equisetifolia subsp. Incana
Cocos nucifera (Coconut Palm)
Cupressus macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress)
Eucalyptus ficifolia (Red Flowering Gum), E. botryoides, E. calophylla ‘Rosea’ (Pink-flowered Marri), E.
lehmannii (Bushy Yates)
Melaleuca armillaris, M. elliptica, M. nesophila, M. squarrosa Metrosideros excelsa (NZ Christmas Tree)
Olea europea (Olive)
Phoenix canariensis (Date Palm)
Pinus nigra maritima (Corsican Pine)
Tamarix parvifolia (Tamarisk)
Tristania laurina
Shrubs
Acacia saligna
Agave attenuata
Banksia ericifolia (Heath Banksia)
Banksia marginata
Brachysema lanceolata (Swan River Pea)
Callistemon citrinus, C. rigidus
Coprosma repens (Mirror Plant)
Cordyline australis
Correa alba, C. reflexa
Dodonea viscosa (Hop Bush)
Echium candicans (Pride of Madeira)
Escallonia macrantha
Feijoa (Pineapple guava)
Hakea laurina (Pincushion Hakea), H. sauveolens
Hebe cultivars
Kunzea ambigua
Leptospermum laevigatum (Coast Tea Tree)
Leptospermum petersonii (Lemon-scented Tea Tree)
Leucophyta brownii (Cusion Bush)
Melaleuca fulgens, M. hypericifolia, M. laterita
Murraya exotica (Mock Orange)
Myoporum insulare (Boobialla)
Nerium oleander (Oleander)
Olearia sp. (Daisy Bush)
Polygala sp.
Raphiolepis species and cultivars (Indian Hawthorn)
Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)
Vitex spp.
Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary)
Groundcovers/Small Shrubs
Alyssum maritimum (Sweet Alice)
Arctotis (Aurora Daisy)
Carprobrotus glaucescens (Pig Face)
Cerastium tomentosum (Snow in Summer)
Hemerocallis (Day Lily)
Hibiscus scandens (Snake Vine)
Gazania (Gazania)
Lantana montevidensis (Lantana)
Mesembryanthemum sp. (Pigface)
Myoporum acuminatum (Boobialla)
Osteospermum cultivars (African Daisy)
Pelargonium australe
Sedum spp.
Scaevola aemula
Stachys byzantina (Lamb’s Ears)
Climbers
Bougainvillea
Ficus pumila (Climbing Fig)
Hedera helix (Ivy)
Hibbertia scandens (Guinea Gold Vine)
Petrea volubilis (Purple wreath)
Pyrostegia venusta (Orange Trumpet Vine)
Solandra guttata (Cup of Gold)
Tecomanthe hillii
HARDY PLANTS FOR INNER CITY GARDENS
Like humans, plants face a whole range of additional stresses when trying to survive in a city environment,
than they would in non-city areas.
What makes plant growing difficult in inner city areas:
• A city generates huge amounts of heat. This can effect the local environment considerably. In particular
in summer months plants may suffer heat stress.
• Pollution of air, water and soil as a result of industrial processes, domestic wastes, automobile use, etc.
can seriously damage or even kill plants (e.g. acid rain, leaking natural gas lines).
• Space restrictions often limit the types of plants you can grow, for example overhead power lines create
height restrictions and footpaths limit nature strip plantings.
• Large areas of hard covered surfaces, such as roads, footpaths, buildings, etc. reduce the amount of
area available for rainwater to penetrate into the soil thereby affecting soil moisture levels.
• The construction of buildings will often seriously reduce the amount of light that plants receive.
• Air conditioning will often produce unsuitable conditions for plant growth, for example fumes from gas
heaters or very dry, hot air.
• Physical damage due to machinery, vandals, animals, etc. is generally much higher in city areas
compared with elsewhere.
Resistant Plants for Urban Areas
Trees
Acacia floribunda Acacia longifolia Acacia pycnantha
Acer pseudoplatanus Allocasuarina (many varieties) Crataegus
Eucalyptus ficifolia Eucalyptus globulus compacta Eucalyptus ovata
Eucalyptus torquata Ficus macrophylla Fraxinus
Gleditsia Liquidambar Melaleuca stypheloides
Platanus Populus Prunus
Pyrus Quercus Robinia
Salix
Shrubs
Berberis Buddleia davidii Buxus sempervirens
Casuarina distyla Chaenomeles japonica Cotoneaster
Cytisus Eleagnus Escallonia
Euonymus Genista Hakea suaveolens
Hibiscus syriacus Hydrangea Hypericum
Leptospermum scoparium Ligustrum Lonicera nitida
Melaleuca armillaris Melaleuca decussata Nerium oleander
Pyracantha sp. Spiraea Tamarix
Viburnum Weigelia
Indoor Plants for Air Conditioned Buildings
(adapted to out of balance gases in the air)
Bromeliads Cacti Chlorophytum elatum
Cocos Palm Dracaena godseffiana Ficus elastica
Phoenix roebelinii
(better than Cocos)
Succulents Zebrina