APPAREL PRODUCTION REPORT

[A Report based on three months internship at Modelama Exports Ltd., Gurgaon, Haryana]

Under the Guidance of Mrs Vasundhara Chaudhary

Associate Professor

National Institute of Fashion Technology

Gandhinagar

Report Prepared by Atul Dwivedi

Navneet Kumar Yadav

Vinay Prajapati

M.F.Tech, Sem-III

National Institute of Fashion Technology

Gandhinagar

INDEX

SR. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.

1 PREFACE i 2 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ii 3 COMPANY PROFILE 1 4 ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE 2 5 FACTORY LAYOUT 3 6 ABOUT THE COMPANY 4 7 MAJOR OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS 6 8 FLOW DIAGRAM OF WORKING IN AN EXPORT HOUSE 7 9 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 8

10 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT 12 11 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 19 12 FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT 22 13 FABRIC STORE 25 14 FLOW FOR ORDER PROCESSING 27 15 FABRIC INSPECTION 28 16 TESTING LAB 30 17 ACCESSORIES STORE 37 18 RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 40 19 MACHINE MAINTAINANCE DEPARTMENT 44 20 CAD DEPARTMENT 47 21 WORK FLOW OF SPREADING & CUTTING 51 22 SPREADING DEPARTMENT 52 23 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 54 24 TICKETING, FUSING, CHECKING & BUNDLING 56 25 PRODUCTION, PLANNING & CONTROL DEPARTMENT 58 26 SEWING DEPARTMENT 60 27 WASHING DEPARTMENT 62 28 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 64 29 PACKAGING DEPARTMENT 66 30 DETAILS OF STYLE STUDIED DURING INTERNSHIP 68

This report is an account of hard work done and experience gained in the company having a reputed stand in the international market and policy of keeping itself updated with the changing times. This hard work is original in style and method & no pains have been spared too make it as compact, perfect and reliable as possible. The report mainly deals in the application of theoretical knowledge into a practical experience. This report attempts to present our experience in Modelama Exports Ltd. Indias premier export house. It gave us an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed organization and get the first hand knowledge of working of various departments under various heads. It covers the basic structure of an export house and working. It also includes various formats that are used in firms to maintain the records. Overall, this report covers the individual study of each department that a garment undergoes. As such, this report is not sufficient to pen down what we have gained from this in plant training. So, it should not be compared with the experience that is learned by working in an expert house.

PREFACE

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At the very outset, we find ourselves fully engulfed in immense pleasure in expressing our sincere and profound gratitude to Mr. Lalit Gulati (Owner Modelama Exports Ltd.) for providing us an opportunity to do this momentous internship in this prestigious organization. Secondly, we will be failing if we do not express our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. S. S. Bedi (Manager Personal Department & Administration), Mr. Arvind Rai (G.M Personal) for their continuous support, and encouragement and valuable guidance in doing fruitful and challenging project, which would be an unforgettable experience to us. Our overriding debt continuous to be for Mr. Dushyant (G.M Fabric), Mr. Ilias (Cutting Manager) and his cutting team & CAD team, Mr. Deepak Gupta (Head IE Department) for their support and help during the Internship period. We would like to extend our particulars thanks to Mr. Biraj Narula (G.M Production) for his strong and continuous support all the way through our project. Back at our institute we would like to express our sincere thanks to Mr. Pranav Vora (Course Coordinator M.F.Tech) and Mr. Pavan Godiawala (Chair Person, MFT) all the staff members of Department of Garment Manufacturing Technology for allocating us this organization and helping us out in the best possible ways during the period of internship. A special thanks to Mrs. Vasundhara Chaudhary (Course Coordinator, DFT) for her valuable guidance during our Internship.

COMPANY PROFILE

COMPANY NAME MODELAMA EXPORTS LTD

ADDRESS PLOT NO. 105/106, UDYOG VIHAR, PHASE-1 GURGAON, HARYANA- 122015

HEAD OFFICE B-57 OKHLA INDL. AREA PHASE-1 NEW DELHI- 110020 INDIA

TELEPHONE 0124-4008105

FAX 0124-4008108

E-MAIL info@modelamaexports.com

WEBSITE www.modelamaexports.com

YEAR ESTD. 1979

OWNER MR. LALIT GULATI

DIRECTORS MR. SANJAY GULATI MR. GAGAN GULATI MR. GAURAV GULATI

ANNUAL TURNOVER 60 MILLION (OF ALL FACTORIES)

MARKET 100% EXPORT

TOTAL COVERED AREA 4,00,000 SQ. FT.

TOTAL WORKING FORCE 5500

IN HOUSE/FABRICATION/BOTH BOTH

PRODUCTION CAPACITY 6 MILLION/YEAR

1

ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE

MR LALIT GULATI

(Chairman)

MR SANJAY GULATI

(Managing Director)

MR GAGAN GULATI (Director)

MR BIRAJ NARULA

(GM Production GF) MR GAURAV GULATI

(Director)

MR ARVIND RAI

(GM P&A)

MS SHALU BAGGA (Home Furnishings)

MR SAMEER SOOD

(GM production FF) MR DINESH

(EDP)

MR JP SARAF

(Manager Accounts)

MS SUMAN MALHOTRA (Merchandising)

MR SUNNY KUMAR

(Production SF) MR DUSHYANT

(Fabric Store)

MR RN SHARMA

(Manager EXIM)

MR SANTOSH KUMAR (Production U200 & U201)

MR PRAVEEN RAI (Sampling)

2

FACTORY LAYOUT

1. BASEMENT

a. Fabric Testing Lab b. Fabric Store c. Accessories Store d. General Store e. Cutting/CAD/CAM

2. GROUND FLOOR

a. Reception b. Conference Room c. Personal Department d. Human Resource e. Production Floor f. Finishing Department g. Packing h. Machine Maintenance Department i. Washing Section

3. FIRST FLOOR

a. Production floor b. Finishing c. Packing d. Quality control

4. SECOND FLOOR

a. Merchandising b. Product development c. R & D d. Production plan & control e. Sampling f. Export documentation g. EDP(Electronic Data Processing) h. Accounts i. Surplus fabric & accessory store

3

ABOUT THE COMPANY

With a vision to lead, Modelama emerged in the horizons of garments manufacturing industry in the year 1979. Led by business acumen of the founder and the competence of the workforce, it established itself as a name to reckon with not only in India but also in the overseas destinations.

Today, it is one of the leading garment manufacturers and exporters in India with state-of-the art, professionally run, production units covering about 400,000 sq. ft. of area.

Ever since its inception, Modelama has never looked back. Growing with strength as well as value it has achieved the production capacity of 6 million garments per year and a turnover of 60 million USD.

The management of Modelama Export always believed that quality should be the top most priority. The incessant efforts to provide consumer satisfaction could only be achieved through enhancing the capabilities of manufacturing high quality products.

At Modelama, obligations involving human resource development, social & environmental issues are a part of the day-to-day chores. We take pride in the human resource that we have. Modelama boasts of one of the most experienced and well-trained technicians belonging to the fields like apparel engineering, textile technology, electronic data processing, designing and so on.

4

PRODUCT MIX

Modelama uses a wide array of fabrics to create distinct styles for its buyers. From naturals (cotton,

linen, silk, wool) to synthetics (viscose, polyester, polyamide) and their blends, various fabrics are

handled with the care they demand. Looking at the growing buyer demands and the fast pace at

which fashion moves today Modelama has developed a diverse and futuristic product mix.

AESTHETICS AND FUNCTIONALITY

With a strong design team which gets its inspiration from global sources and a global technical

team providing manufacturing and infrastructure know how, we have achieved the perfect blend of

aesthetics with functionality.

HOW THEY CREATE

Work at Modelama happens very closely with the fashion forecast the design team visit a no. of

fashion forums, seminars and exhibitions like the premier vision, heimtex etc. the designers are

stationed in the US as well as UK who constantly feed with retail information, retailing trends,

market share analysis, brand evaluation and other retail information.

Apart from the keen interest they take in making the products, they also try to induce what India as

a source can offer in terms of embroideries, hand work, light weight fabrics and the various accents

of our culture as an inspiration.

Their range has a wide array of fabric from natural - cotton, linen and wool, silk to synthetics

viscose, polyester, polyamide, blends, microfibers and much more.

Apart from the constant feed of the fresh concepts in the product mix, there products also have a

distinct genre of style complimenting individual buyer needs. They were very closely with the

buyers design team and satisfy the certain buyer beyond expectations.

OTHER FACILITIES

In house comprehensive washing facilities for all kinds of washing, like enzyme, bleach, caustic, acid

wash, ice wash. Sand blast/faded effect and AZO free overdyeing in house.

MAIN PRODUCTS

High fashion and basic garments covering all segments:

Ladies: Dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, blouses, scarves, jackets etc. Kids: dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, scarves, jackets, shorts and overall etc. Men: shirts, shorts, pants, jackets etc.

5

SPECIALISATION

Denim wear, prints, embroideries, cut works appliqu and other intricate trims and

embellishments; basically all form of value addition, novelty washes and quick turnaround time.

TYPES OF FABRIC

All types of Indian and imported woven fabrics viz. cotton viols, cambric, poplin, twill, corduroy,

dobbys/jacquards, canvas, denim, viscose/rayon, linen, nylon/polyester, madras plaids etc.

MAJOR OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS

USA: Aeropostle, American eagle outfitters, Anthropology, American Rug, Belk International Inc,

Benetton, Bonton, Club Monaco, CSI industries, DDP(France), Disney, Explosion, Forth & town, GAP

Mens outerwear, GAP women denim division, GAP women out let, Gyomboree, INC mens, Urban

outfitters, Wool rich, Old navy, Karan scoot, Material London, JMC, Mervyns.

EUROPE: J.Jill, Diesel, Calvin Klein, Top shop, Next, We.

CANADA: Eatons, Hudson Bay, Marmaxx, Sears Roebuck & Co.

AUSTRALIA: Country Road.

UK: Laura Ashley, GVS, Freemans, Grattan.

6

WORK FLOW

BUYER

PRODUCT DEVELOPER

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

SPREADING

PACKING & FINISHING

SAMPLING

MERCHANT

PRODUCTION

TESTING

FABRIC

MARKER PLANNING

FINISHING & PRESSING

WASHING

BUNDLING & TICKETING

CUTTING

7

PRODUCT DEVEVELOPEMENT

This department is not buyer specific and work for all the buyers that company caters to. The major

role of department is to getting business for the company. Foundation of all other departments, it

assists in converting their ideas into reality.

First interaction of the buyers is with PD department, but in some cases PD is directly done by the

merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as well as presentation for new

development/line adoption to buyer, Samples/mocks developed are just for style and design

purpose and measurement do not play a major role. If buyer select any of their style then further

development will be done by PD department, once order is been booked further follow up and

communicating regarding that style will be the responsibility of the concerned merchandiser.

CLASSIFICATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INTERNAL DESIGNING EXTERNAL DESIGNING

OWN DESIGN LINE INSPIRATIONAL TECH PACK

8

INTERNAL DESIGNING

Design development done in house. Product development is done on the following basis:

MOCK OR SAMPLES WILL BE PREPARED FOR SELECTION

IF SELECTED THEN MEETING SAMPLES WILL BE MADE

COSTING AND NEGOTIATIONS

SALESMAN SAMPLE

GRADING

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PASSED BY MERCHANDISER THEN FOR PD

9

EXTERNAL DESIGNING

LINE ADOPTION WITH BASIC DETAILS

SAMPLES WILL BE MADE (2 Pcs)

APPROVAL/COMMENTS

BUYER SENTS A TECH PACK

THEN AGAIN PROTO SAMPLE MADE (3 Pcs)

FIT SAMPLES MADE (3 Pcs)

APPROVAL/COMMENTS

BUYER WILL SENT FIT SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS

SIZE SET ARE MADE

APPROVAL

REVISE FIT OR SEALER SAMPLE IS MADE

ORDER CONFIRMATION

10

IMPORTANT TERMINOLOGY

PCD (Plan cut date) GPT (Garment package test) FPT (Fabric package test) CUT OFF DATE GREEN TAG SAMPLE (means

production sample)

YELLOW TAG SAMPLE (means sealer sample)

WINDOW DATE PPM (Pre-production meeting) Minutes of meeting (for any important

discussion related to any particular

issue)

TYPES OF SAMPLES

Proto sample Costing meeting sample Catalogue sample Salesman sample Fit sample AD sample/photo shoot sample Sealer sample Preproduction sample

Reference sample Resample TOP sample Pilot run sample Size set sample Testing sample Named above are the different types

of samples used by different buyers.

A TECH PACK CONTAINS

A pictorial representation of the garment

Make up details Sample size Fabric type Colour of fabric Placements of buttons, zippers,

embroideries etc.

Garment description Style number Date sent Date required Supplier name Season or phase Fabric sample

11

MERCHANDISING

Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A merchant is

the person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is central or integral

part of a garment industry.

Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendors

company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of

garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and

up to the shipment of the order i.e., he is the whole sole of the company. Thus a merchant is a

fulcrum of the organization which involves coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He

has to take care of quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to

which the merchant is liable for some percentage in the company profile.

MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Receive detailed information from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality and fibre content, trim requirements and quality, colour details and various other details like washing,

printing, embroideries etc.

Make proto types, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage

etc.

Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if any, confirm price, category, delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.

Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar, prepare the fabric and trim indent.

Coordinate with R & D and I E for further detailed R & D reports; coordinate with PPC for production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.

Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of budget at each stage.

Another important task for merchandiser is lot approval so therefore from every roll and lot swatch

is taken firstly, it is observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for approvals and after

approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory.

Denim approvals are taken in blanket pattern and approved samples will be used in packaging

Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has to do

costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till ship cancel date and it is called as Time

and action calendar (T&A Calendar).

12

Before starting the costing for a style merchandiser should consider the following:

Fabric consumption Labour Expenses (Calculated with the

help of SMV)

Thread Consumption Trims and Accessories cost

Margin Exchange Rate Finishing Packaging CMP (Cut Make Pack)

Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is compactly

prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and trims/accessories to get

on-time deliveries, from suppliers in house and other T & A is for Internal working for prompt

working for style.

Simultaneously merchandiser works with shipping department for banking vessel and other

mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing necessary

document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and accessory. At

same time Account Department assist for payments.

13

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

MATERIALINDENT

(TRIMS DETAILS)

FPT APPROVAL

TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL

SIZE SET SAMPLE APPROVAL

Contents No table of contents entries

found.

FABRIC PROGRAM

(FABRIC DETAILS)

FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL

PP SAMPLE

RE SAMPLE/PROTO

TYPE APPROVAL

GPT SAMPLE

LOT APPROVAL

SHIPMENT INSPECTION

AND FINAL SHIPPING

TECH PACK COMES FROM THE BUYER

INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING

BUDGETING

ORDER CONFIRMATION

GET ORDER FROM THE BUYER

INTERNAL WITH BUYER

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MERCHANDISING FILE OF A STYLE INCLUDES

1. Order confirmation 2. Purchase order 3. 1st lab dip/comment 4. 2nd lab dip/comment 5. Approved colour standard 6. Important communications 7. Final GSS and BOM received 8. 1st approval/comments 9. Revised GSS 10. 2nd approval/comments 11. Revised GSS 12. Approved fit and comment

13. Size set samples 14. Sealer/comments 15. PP samples 16. Initial bulk against approved lab dip 17. Lot comment and approved 18. Trim 19. Approved trim card 20. Costing 21. Budget 22. Test report (Trim, FPT, GPT) 23. Fusing

PRIMARY RESPONSIBILITIES OF MERCHANDISER

Chase for fabric/trims prior to PCD date Size sets/PP/TOP samples-Monitoring and delivering Coordinating buying agency QA Inspection

OC GENERATION

OC stands for ORDER CONFIRMATION, is an internal document and should be generated by

concerned merchandiser against PO within 24-48 hrs of order confirmation from buyer. It is

information as well as an alarm to all departments that company has received an order.

OC includes the following information:

Purchase Order (PO) Number Quantity FOB

Delivery Date Fabric with tentative consumption

PURCHASE ORDER

PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Modelama Exports; it is an

evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of company.

15

PO includes the following information-

Delivery Date FOB Ship cancel date Destination Ship mode

Terms of sale Currency L/C Quantity Size Break up/colour Break up

FABRIC PROGRAM (FP)

It is an internal document issued to fabric department, for sourcing the required fabric required for

the style.

MATERIAL INDENT

It is an internal document issued to Accessory Department, for sourcing the required accessory and

trims for style.

INTERNAL BUDGET

It is the internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual costing given to

the buyer and companys costing.

MODELAMA uses EDI software for downloading:

POs, DCPOs and CDs (for price tickets and shipment tickets)

Buyer directly sends PO on this software and it is further followed by the merchandisers

accordingly. Until company receives any written mail from buyer no action will be taken by

merchandisers.

PCD DATE MONITERING

PCD date should be followed by head right from the order confirmation, production manager can

refuse to take the file from concerned merchandiser if the PCD date slides drastically and unit

manager approach to management if concerned merchant tries to put pressure on unit, but if a

particular style has been taken over by unit head then the deliverance of style in terms of quality/

deliver date has to meet by unit head.

16

PAYMENT TO VENDERS

It is a policy of the company that all the venders such as fabric/trim suppliers, embroidery job

workers, handwork contractors, finishing job workers would be done after shipping of a particular

order and the payment would be done only of the actual shipment quality.

COSTING

The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total cost of

garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also negotiate

the cost of production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be such that it

suits the buyer and also the export house. At the pre-production stage initial costing is done so as

to get an idea of the cost likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw material cost; manufacturing

cost, washing cost, make up cost, overhead expenses and the margin of the company. After the

buyer has placed his order and production sample is approved then the final costing is done. The

final costing uses fabric average from CAD, cost of fabric & trims etc.

A cost sheet includes:

Buyers name Style Garment

Quantity Budget Fabric description

Total cost fabric includes:

Greige fabric cost Brushing Calendaring Cartage Dyeing/printing Embroidery Washing

Finishing Shrinkage Freight Wastage Average consumption Total fabric consumption

Accessories cost includes:

Main label Wash care label Price ticket Tags Cartons

Poly bags Stitching threads Embroidery threads Beads, sequins, elastic, mobilon tape

etc.

17

Total cost of a garment:

Fabric cost Accessories cost CM (cost of manufacturing) Dyeing Embroidery

Fabrication Finishing Packaging Beads, sequins

Cost of company:

Margin Overheads Quota Shipping cost

18

SAMPLING

A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is also

called mock-up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment.

Sampling is a set of procedure follow to produce various sample style. It contains activities like

making of pattern for proto type according to measurement of produce sample with the help of

machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce.

In an export house, the sampling department laced a vital role in the up-lifting of a unit. This

department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and production dept. sampling is

done to see how the product will look like when produce in bulk and to check discrepancies in the

pattern are. Patterns are made according to the buyer specification.

STEPS OF SAMPLING:

PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE

FIT SAMPLE MADE

PP SAMPLE MADE

TOP SAMPLE MADE

SIZE SET MADE

SHIPPMENT SAMPLE MADE

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MACHINE DETAILS IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

LINE

S.NO M/C TYPE MANUFACTURER 1 2 3 4 5 TOTAL

1 S.N.L.S TYPICAL 9 15 14 15 3 56

2

S.N.L.S KING SPL 6 2 3 0 2 13

3 S.N.L.S BROTHER 11 3 0 0 0 14

4 S.N.L.S KATT SPL 0 0 0 0 3 3

5 D.N.L.S HIGHLEAD 0 1 0 0 1 2

6 D.N.L.S PEGASUS 0 0 0 0 1 1

7 O/L 3 TOYOTA 0 0 0 0 1 1

8 O/L 3 TYPICAL 0 0 1 3 0 4

9 O/L 5 BROTHER 0 1 0 0 0 1

10 O/L 5 TYPICAL 0 0 0 1 0 1

11 KANSAI 0 0 0 0 3 3

12 3 NEEDLE C.S 0 0 0 1 0 1

13 BARTACK BROTHER 0 0 0 0 1 1

14 F.O.A 0 0 0 0 1 1

15 EMBROIDERY FRIEND 0 0 7 0 0 7

16 SPL M/C GOLDEN WHEEL 0 0 1 0 0 1

17 SPL M/C TREASURE 0 0 1 0 0 1

18 MAINTAINENCE 0 3 0 1 0 4

TOTAL 26 25 27 21 16 115

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FUNCTIONS

Two main functions of sampling department are:

1. To cater the buyer 2. New development

1. TO CATER THE BUYER

In this method first a Tack-Pack or a GSS (Garment specification sheet) is given by the buyer and

then on the basis of this GSS patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of these

patterns fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send to the buyer.

On the basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the sampling

department starts producing samples. These samples are then sending to the buyer through

merchandiser for his approval as per the sequence shown in the above flow chart.

2. NEW DEVELOPMENT

In this method a new design is developed by the designer of the company. Before developing a new

design forecasting is done. By this forecasting we come to know that which colour, embroidery,

type of fabric, silhouette, texture etc. will be like by the fabric in upcoming season. This design is

also according to the country and season. This new design is then send to the buyer and if buyer

likes the design, he may place an order of the same design or with some modification in the new

design. Once the order is placed by the buyer, the sampling department starts producing samples.

These samples are sending to the buyer in a particular sequence as shown in the above flow chart.

21

FABRIC SOURCING

Sourcing deals with getting information about material from different sources and then selecting

the best material which suits over budget and buyers specification.

Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyers specifications. Fabric

sourcing department is quite important as more than 90% of garment is fabric and approximately

70% cost of garment is due to the fabric.

Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyers specification otherwise it may lead to

cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing department

gets the fabric sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending to buyer for

approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk production.

TYPES OF FABRIC

1. KNITTED FABRIC 2. WOVEN FABRIC

These two kinds of fabric can be further classified as:

Yarn dyed fabric Solid dyed fabric Printed fabric

YARN DYED FABRIC

To impart colour in a fabric, it is either died after weaving or first dyeing of the yarn is done and

then interlacement of these yarn results in a coloured fabric.

The fabric in which we dyed the yarn first and then weave the fabric is called yarn dyed fabric. The

yarn dyed fabric are generally in the form of checks, stripes etc.

SOLID DYED FABRIC

Solid dyed fabrics are the fabrics which are first manufactured on the loom and thereafter dyed but

the colouring agent cant be applied directly to the griege fabric. To apply colour griege fabric is first

processed through different processes like de-sizing, bleaching etc. these processes are done so as

to make the fabric appropriate for dyeing.

PRINTED FABRIC

Printed fabric are the fabrics which obtained by printing a bleached fabric/dyed fabric or these

fabrics are the fabrics having different or varied print in which a base fabric either dyed fabric or

bleached fabric is printed by various printing technology.

22

Steps followed for fabric purchasing:

Market trends enquiry Vendors-folders in-house swatches Display to buyers After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling yardage (5-10 meter of

fabric)

Documents used in sourcing department:

FP (Fabric Program)

a. Fabric description b. Accessories c. Plan Cut Date d. Delivery Date

PROCESS OF GENERATING FABRIC PROGRAM

FPO (Fabric Purchase Order)

a. Fabric description b. Supplier name c. Date of PO d. Delivery date e. Cancel date

f. Rate g. Transportations (Logistic) h. Fabric Purchase Order number i. Payment

FPO also tells about the type/quality of fabric whether it is yarn dyed, dyed, printed, or greige

fabric.

ORDER CONFIRMATION

TENTATIVE AVERAGE

ORDER ACCORDING TO THE TENTATIVE ORDER PIECES

FIRST WORKING

FABRIC PROGRAM

FINAL AVERAGE

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JPO (Job Process Order)

a. Processors name b. Date of PO c. Delivery Date d. Fabric description e. Logistic f. Rate g. JPO no.

JPO also gives information about the process to be done on the fabric like embroidery, dyeing,

printing etc.

SUPPLIERS OF MODELAMA EXPORT HOUSE

1. Yarn dyed- South India, Arvind, Imported 2. Knits- Ludhiana, Delhi 3. Cotton- All around India 4. Wool- Imported, Amritsar, Ludhiana, Panipat 5. Silk/Poly/Viscose- Banaras, Bangalore, Surat, Ahmedabad, Mumbai 6. Linen- Indian Rayon, Imported 7. Velvets/Jacquard- Panipat 8. Greige- Coimbatore, Salem, Erode, Bhiwandi (Mumbai) 9. Leno/Dobby/Textured- Bhiwandi, South India 10. Processing- Bhilwara, Panipat, Faridabad, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai 11. Embroidery- Manesar, Mumbai, Amritsar

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FABRIC STORE

Fabric storehouse is the actual area where the fabric for production is receive or dispatched for

processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the inspection of the

goods receive by it.

PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE

LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO THE MERCHANDISING

QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS

METER CHECKING BY SECURITY GUARDS

KEPT IN STORE

100 % CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)

BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYEING OR PRINTING

GRIEGE FABRIC

SEND IT FOR PROCESSING

SOLID/YARN

DYED/PRINTED

FABRIC DISPATCHED FROM SUPPLIER

FABRIC RECEIVING

25

STORAGE

Rack system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas:

1. Checked fabric 2. Unchecked fabric

They are further segregated on the basis of style no. and lot wise. The fabric is put in rack with the

help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to make the

fabric whenever needed in future.

ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:

The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this purchase order, the

fabric sourcer prepares a requisition for the fabric as per the demands of the buyers and raises it

to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is

placed. The factory may send the yarn from the store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy

greige for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics

development receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the

specified time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% extra goods are

supplied by the vendor.

The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold, open width etc. The

packages are unloaded on conveyor belts (500 kg capacity) with take them to the weighing

machine. Each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, colour, GSM, and

weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before they are store.

26

FLOW FOR ORDER PROCESSING

NO

YES

NO

YES

RECEIVE PO FROM MERCHANDISER

PREPARE A FABRIC REQUISITION

RAISE THE REQUISITION TO VENDORS

RECEIVE SHADE APPROVAL

SEND GOODS FOR DYEING

RECEIVE DYED GOODS

LAB DIPS PREPARED AT DYEING UNIT IN

NEAREST SHADE

SOURCE OUT THE GOODS

FINALIZE THE VENDORS

PLACE THE ORDER

FIRST LOT IN - HOUSE

SEND YARDAGE FOR INTERNAL TESTING

SUBMIT FOR BUYERS APPROVAL FOR

COLOR AND QUALITY

BULK FABRIC IN - HOUSE

SEND LAB DIPS FOR SHADE APPROVALBY

THE BUYER

SUBMIT FOR APPROVAL TO MERCHANT

LAB TESTING

APPROVED

APPROVED

RE-ORDER

SEND FOR

REDYEING,

WASHING

ETC

READY FOR ISSUE

27

FABRIC INSPECTION

The fabric being the main contributor to the development of our final product i.e. the garment, it is

very important to control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and variations present in it.

Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce

the production time. So once the fabric is in housed it is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley

assembly to the inspection area.

INSPECTION

GREIGE FABRIC INSPECTION PROCESSED FABRIC INSPECTION

FABRIC STORE QUALITY NORMS

SLUB 0-3 = 1 PTS 3-6 = 2 PTS 6-9 = 4 PTS CUT/HOLES 0-1 = 1 PTS 1-1.5= 2 PTS 1.5> = 4 PTS WARP WISE PATTA MINOR = 2 PTS MAJOR = 4 PTS WEFT WISE PATTA MINOR = 2 PTS MAJOR = 4 PTS LENGTH WISE VARIATION 0-2 > PALLA = 2 PTS 3 > PALLA = 4 PTS CENTRE SELVEDGE MINOR > = A/B (If different colour visible in 1 sq m) MAJOR < = D PILLING if pilling is on one side of plain weave, reverse side can be treated as face, not in the case of dobby, jacquard, twill etc. STREAK MARKS From selvedge to 2 then we have to plan the marker accordingly, otherwise it will be in D category

Other defects considered in the fabric store:

Oil stains Weaving defects Dead cotton

Patchy Bowing Skewness

28

Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which

gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large

poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The grades are as follows-

A CLASS No defects, fabric can be used. B/ MENDED CLASS Defects are present but under acceptance level, can be mended

to first class by subsequent processing, fabric to be cut with care. C CLASS Fabric to be negotiated with supplier. D CLASS Rejected, defects are present beyond acceptance level, fabric to

be not used.

NOTE:

1. Lots will be prepared. 2. Checking as per the norms of buyer. 3. In case there is C and D category in passed lot, will rechecked again and rechecking report

need to be made.

4. Lab report along with fabric checking report will be given to fabric merchant as well as merchandiser.

5. No fabric issue to cutting without QA sign. 6. Knit fabric check in Kilograms. 7. Formula used = 3600 * Defects points

Length * Width

MACHINES IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT

1. FABRIC CHECKING MACHINE: This machine is used for any type of fabric rolled, checking

defects and check fabric length and width. Mostly used for grey fabric.

2. FOLDING MACHINE: This machine is used for folding the fabric in one meter.

DOCUMENTATION

Fabric store has huge documentation work as well. Bar coding has lent a helping hand and eased

the task of record keeping. Nevertheless, following records are also manually maintained:

1. Stock register for information about the stock present in the store at a given rate. 2. Receiving register for information like fabric receive from where, when and in how much

quantity.

3. Issuing register for information regarding the fabric issued to the dyeing mills. 4. Checking register for information about the rolls inspected, GSM, tube width, faults and no.

of rolls approved and passed.

29

5. GSM recorded register for GSM of all the fabric rolls is stored in the house along with the swatches.

6. Fabrics checking report, which states the type and no. of defects and weather the roll is rejected or pass.

7. Pending checking status report maintained on daily basis for information regarding the rolls that are pending for checking.

TESTING LAB

Garments are made from fabric with the help of sewing threads and a no. of accessories like

button; laces, ribbons etc. are sewn on them. All these things used to construct a garment have

uncertain characteristics i.e. how they will behave in conditions like washing, sunlight, heat etc.

when used by the customer. Any undesirable changes in the fabric, thread or the trims would

detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before time. Thus it became

necessary to check or test the characteristics of all these components under conditions to which

they are susceptible to change or get damaged. Fabric and trims are tested for their quality,

durability, colour fastness, dimensional stability and physical know how. Goods are produced from

the suppliers only when the lab tests results confirm that they comply with the standards or

requirements of the buyers.

The buyers are also specific about the test method that has to be followed. AATCCC and ASTM are

two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists

and Colourists) standards are given primarily for all colour fastness and dimensional stability. ASTM

(American Standard for Testing Materials) covers all the physical tests.

ISO (International Standard Organization) is a European standard, which covers the colour fastness

tests and the dimensional stability tests.

Modelama has its own in-house fabric testing laboratory equipped with all sophisticated

instruments as per AATCC and ISO standards where tests on fabric, garment and trims are

conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in the lab along with a dark

room for colour matching.

BASIC WORK FLOW

Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test request form either from the fabric

sourcing department or the fabric store (or garment from quality assurance/merchandising

departments). This form contains all the details like buyer name, style, sample description and

vendor. A swatch of the fabric to be tested is passed on the form and tests to be conducted are

specified. Depending on the no. and type of tests to be carried, fabric yardages are sent to the lab

(almost mtr to 2 mtr)

Testing is done on the behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the test to be conducted.

Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities. Each buyer has

30

its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may require testing to be done at a specified testing

laboratory or one nominated by the buyer itself.

Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to relaxed, condition and acclimatizes to the

standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2-4 hrs. a variety of

test are conducted on the condition samples but some of the tests like that of washing, crocking,

rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM, content etc. are necessarily carried

out for every fabric/garment. Following is a list of test carried out in the lab:

COLOR FASTNESS TO Washing(30, 40, 49 Degree) Crocking/Rubbing No chlorine/Chlorine Bleach Actual Laundering

PHYSICAL TEST TO Count Construction Fabric Weight Twist Per Inch Spirality Tensile Strength Tearing Strength General Garment Appearance Pilling Test Dimensional Stability After Washing CHEMICAL TESTS TO Fibre Content pH of Water Extract/surface pH

CONCEPT OF GREY SCALE

Colour fastness and pilling tests require grading of the results to draw objective inference of the

behaviour of the fabric or garment. Grading means comparing the tested and the standard fabric.

This is done with the help of grey scale.

Grey scale standard are of two types:

1. One that is used for testing the variation in colour. 2. The other is that used for the purpose of measuring the variation in the stain before and

after wash or dry cleaning.

31

WORKING INSTRUCTION FOR DIFFERENT TEST

1. SHRINKAGE

If an extreme shrinkage rate occurs then a test on every roll will be performed. The result

collated separated in to shrinkage group of a +/- 1.5% range. Separate patterns will be made

for each group. The QA Manager will communicate such information to CAD/CAM, cutting

and sewing sections. A fabric shrinkage test report is maintained for this purpose.

Formula: A 50 cm. mark is made in the warp and weft direction. The sample is washed in

water at normal temperature for 45 minutes and an hour and then taken out and dried. The

marks made are measured again to find out the shrinkage.

2. GSM CUTTER AND WEIGHT BALANCE

GSM Gram per square meter

AREA EQUIPMENT PURPOSE

DR

Y A

REA

PICK GLASS/COUNTING GLASS Constructional parameters like CPI,WPI

GSM CUTTER To cut a standard size sample fabric for GSM

ELECTRIC BALANCE To weighing and determining count, GSM etc.

PILLING TESTER Predict pilling behaviour

CROCK METER (Manual & Computerized)

Colour fastness to rubbing

TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER Measure tensile strength of the knit fabric

TEARING STRENGTH TESTER Measure tearing strength of the knit fabric

DATA COLOR SPECTRA FLASH(Spectrophotometer)

Colour matching and recipe formulation

WET

AR

EA FRONT LOADING WASHING MACHINE General wash

LAUNDROMETER Colour fastness to washing and dry cleaning

HOT AIR OVEN Drying

CH

EMIC

AL

AR

EA pH METER Measure pH of chemical solutions

prepared

32

The GSM is finding out by using a digital weighing machine on which the fabric sample cut

by the GSM cutter is kept and the value displayed. The GSM is calculated using the following

conversion:

3. BEASLEY BALANCE

The instrument is used to calculate the DIRECT COUNT (count, the no. that determines the

fineness and coarseness of the yarn).

Working principle: is based upon FIXED WEIGHT SYSTEM. In which there is a rider having

fixed weight of 0.04 grams.

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample of length 10 cm. in both the direction i.e., warp as well as weft.

Take out the threads with the help of the needle. Weigh the no. of threads and when get balanced, this gives the direct count.

4. PICK GLASS

The EPI and PPI constitute the fabric construction. It is find out manually by using a pick

glass or by cutting a 1 * 1 sample and counting its yarn n the warp and weft direction.

5. TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

This instrument shows the resistance of fabric against wearing and tearing.

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimensions according to the template in both warp and weft directions.

Place the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tearing strength tester. One jaw is fixed and other is movable.

The sample below the bottom jaw is cut with the help of blade. The machine is unlocked.

GSM = VALUE * 100

Construction = Warp * Weft

33

Note the reading when the fabric tears. The reading comes in kg. convert it into oz/yd square

Where E lbs: Reading * 0.0705

P lbs: Reading * 0.0705

1 oz = 28.3495231 grams

1 yd2 = 0.8361274 m2

6. TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

This instrument is used to give the resistance against the normal loading.

Principle used: CRE (Constant Rate of E elongation)

Work instructions:

Take the fabric sample having dimensions 12 cm. * 1.5 in both warp and weft directions.

Placed the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tensile tester. One is fixed, while the other is movable.

Unrevealed the fabric along the length up to 0.25 along the width of the fabric. Set the pointer to zero and start the machine. Note the reading when the breaks. The reading comes in kg is converted into lb.

Note 1 lbs = 0.4535 kg.

Where E lbs: Warp * 2.2 LBS P lbs: WEFT * 2.2 LBS

7. CROCKING FASTNESS

This test is done to find out the resistance of colour against rubbing.

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimensions 20 cm*5 cm. Place the sample on the plate of the machine and fix it with help of lots and screws.

Tearing Strength: E LBS * P

LBS

Tensile Strength: E lbs * P lbs

34

Take the white bleached test cloth as per the standards specification. Put this test cloth on the bulb of the machine for testing. Give 10 rounds in to and fro motion with the help of rotator. Take out the test cloth and grading is done with the help of gray scale. Similarly, the wet rubbing fastness can be calculated by wetting of the test cloth.

Table crocking fastness 5.0 = Excellent (No colour) 4.0 = Good (Light) 3.0 = Moderate (Medium) 2.0 = Poor (Dark) 1.0 = Very poor (Full colour)

8. DIGITAL PILLING TESTER

Used for predict the pilling behaviour of the fabric or garment after its use.

Work instruction:

Clean the boxes thoroughly. Place four mounted test specimens in each box and close the boxes. Set the machine for 18000 revolutions till. Start the machine & let it run, it automatically stops. Take out the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating standards.

9. LAUNDEROMETER

This machine is used to check the fastness of fabric against washing.

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimensions 10 cm*4 cm Then, cut white cotton samples having dimensions 5 cm*4 cm and stitch it on both

sides of the test sample.

Then, put the test sample into the containers of the launder meter. Run the sample with required amount of detergent and M:L ratio according to the

test method required by buyer.

Take out the fabric from the launder meter after the required time and then grading is done according to the grey scale.

35

10. HOT AIR OVEN

Work instruction:

Set the temperature at the desired ageing temperature and switch on the electric supply.

Open the door of the oven and place the test specimen on shelf. Allow the temperature of the oven to the desired test temperature. When the desired temperature is reached note, the time. Allow the test to continue uninterrupted for the specified duration of time. At the end of this period, switch off the power supply and take out the sample. Conduct the required test and find the result.

11. pH METER

Work instruction:

Connect the instrument to electric supply. Put the selector switch to STAND BY. The instrument should read 000. Instrument is now ready to use. Connect to connection pH electrode to the input socket. Set the selector switch to the pH position. Wash the electrode with distilled water

and dip the combined electrode in the solution under test.

Set the temperature. The display shows the value of the solution directly in the pH unit.

12. SHADE MATCHING

Head ends, approx. 6 inches long will be cut from every inspected roll and will be used to

determine shade variation at the beginning middle and of roll side to side shade variation

checks and also carried out at this stage by comparing the two sides of fabric roll closer to

the selvedge. A colour box is used for an accurate detection of shade variation. Depending

on the buyers requirements either primary lights (day light, horizon Inca) or secondary lights

(cool white/CWF, ultra violet) is available for use. If the inspection reveals a significant

shade variation within the roll, such rolls either will be rejected or special markers are made

to avoid/minimize shading in garment as the case may be and the information recorded in

the inspection report.

There is some other testing which plays very crucial role in apparel export industry:

Salvia Test in kids garment Button pull test Perspiration test

36

ACCESSORIES STORE

Accessories store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for accessories.

It is the place where all the accessories required in an export house, are stored. Right from sewing

threads, needles to packaging material like poly bags and taps etc. all are stored in the accessories

store.

The merchandiser as per buyer specifications orders the purchase dept. to buy the accessories that

are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares a swatch card containing all the

accessories and their quantity required in a cycle. These accessories used in the swatch card are as

per the quality and colour mentioned and approve by the buyer. The purchase dept. with the help

of swatch card prepared by the merchandiser purchases the required quantity of accessories. The

accessories are purchased 10-15% extra then the required, as the wastage in case of accessories is

more. The receiving dept. then receives these accessories from the vendors and then checking and

testing of these accessories are done. They are checked for quality and colour. The accessories like

buttons are tested with the help of button snap tester. After all the accessories are checked and

tested as per buyers specifications then an accessories approval card is prepared.

After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The accessories are stored

in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are stored in one rack but the different

accessories are stored separately from each other in the same rack. The accessories store also

houses the stationary required in the export house.

Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are issued to the

production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used for maintaining records. Thus

an accessory store function as a store house for accessories where all the accessories are

assembled and kept and also issued to the sampling and production dept. for the garment

manufacture.

37

WORK FLOW OF ACCESSORIES STORE

ACCESSORIES/TERMS ORDERING AND THEIR APPROVAL

Thread ordering and approval: For ordering threads, merchandiser has to match the colour standard or approved lab dip or

initial bulk fabric with the shade card of the suppliers company. If not matched then lab dip

for thread will be done.

Thread approval is taken through thread runs. Thread run means running of different thread

options matching with the colour standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric used for

production.

Button ordering and approval: For ordering button, its line, colour, finish and quality should be matched with colour

standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric.

Zipper ordering and approval: For ordering button, its line, colour, finish and quality should be matched with colour

standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric.

Hanger and sizes ordering and approval: These are ordered according to the buyers sizes.

A Merchandiser prepares swatch card

B Swatch card is send to the purchase department

C Accessories purchased by purchase department

D Accessories received by receiving department

E Testing of accessories is done

F Storing of accessories in accessory store

G Issuing accessories to the sampling and production

38

Poly bag and carton ordering and approval: Poly bags are ordered according to the length, width and height of the garment and cartons

are ordered as mentioned in PO and DCPO

Labels ordering and approval: As labels are of different types, so it should be ordered according to buyers requirement

only wash care label is ordered after G.P.T.

Zipper ordering and approval: For ordering zippers, its teeth width, tapes quality and colour and important elements

should be matched with quality and colour standard or initial bulk fabric.

Other accessory ordering and approval: Other accessory like fusing, twill tapes shoulder pads, price tickets and hang tags ordered as

other are done.

39

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

R&D and IE are two separate departments working for the same aim i.e. increasing the production

of a company with minimizing the cost.

Various tasks performed are:

To check that product is production feasible or not before sending final approval to buyer. Line balancing. Calculating thread consumption. Time study. Creating operation breakdown. Find out SMV. No. of machine. Helpers required. Sketching layouts for production. To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line. Calculating daily efficiency of the unit. Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency. Fix the target production. Decide the type of machine and work aids attachment required for particular operation. Machine breakdown. To monitor hourly production. Hourly line tracking status.

R&D lends hands in the following:

SMV (Standard Minute Value) per operation and garment Thread consumption Operation breakdown/Operation bulletin (OB) Making production feasible, viable as well as friendly Saving cost

Any garment or order received through specimen or GSS is send to R & D department. The garment

or GSS is then analysing by the expert team to see the viability of the order and also to advice ways

of executing the order. An operation bulletin is prepared on the basis of which SMV is calculated by

using GSD (Garment Sewing Data).

GSD (Garment Sewing Data)

GSD is software which was first developed and installed in 1976. It is developed by UK based

company to find out the SMV. It is based on PMTS (Predetermined Motion Time System) which

40

divide/break into elemental parts equated to 45 codes in software according to operation i.e. Time

Value.

1 min. = 2000 TMV 1 sec = 27 TMV

Parameters of GSD

L = Length GT = Guide and Tension

P = Precision Stop

SMV is calculated on the basis of work done through:

Machine operation Manual operation

GSD provides:

Predetermined Motion Time System (PMTS) to a variety of industrial and electrical sectors. Regular contact and assistance with system application. Regular system upgrade.

PMTS (Predetermined Motion Time System)

PMTS provides a data base on recognized time for predetermined and accepted activities that take

place within a working environment. PMTS is used to evaluate working practices, with a view to

establishing the time it takes to perform a given task and to determine the costs associated to that

task.

The R&D teams have also appointed industrial engineer as their representatives in the production

units of the company. These engineers help the production managers to implement the suggestion

given by the R & D in the unit, assigned to them and solve R & D related problems faced by the unit.

Frequent meeting held between the R & D team and the industrial engineers to discuss the problem

faced and arrive at solutions. Feedback report will be generated by industrial engineers in

production floor; if any deviation is there then R & D will look into through product boast process.

Product boast process is done through stop watch i.e., Time study. They help out in balancing lines

and improving methods and also sitting styles, presentation and organizing.

The most vital as well as cost saving to the company is development of folders and attachment by

R&D department. Folders and Attachment are customized machinery parts which place a wonder

on the garments and it is to be developed accordingly. To the style/design in tool room and

experiment is being done by the technicians in R & D. R & D is continuously engaged in the task of

developing new folders and attachment for executing orders efficiently. This leads to increase

quality, efficiency at reduced costs, reduce no. of operations over and above, makes operations

easier.

41

PROCESS FLOW OF IE DEPARTMENT

.

+

Develop Customized Folders

(Innovate) Tool Room

Prepare R & D Report Prepare operation bulletin

Update SMV & Finalize Report

Technical Analysis before Fit Stage -

Suggest Amendments (Stamp) Merchandising Department

Department Incorporate in Sampling

Start Thinking Innovation Tool Room

Receive Sample for Thread Consumption

Make Operation Bulletin & Calculate

Thread Consumption Merchandising Department

Thread Order Receive Red Tag Sample

In Depth Study of Style & Construction

An Engineered Way

Receiving Sketch/Garment from Merchant Construction Enquiry Sampling Department

Calculate SMV

Product Friendly Solution

Merchandising Department PPC Department

Production Cost Production Planning

42

+

Industrial engineering department working is divided floor wise. All the floors of the 105,106 have

individual IE person sitting on the each floors. Working of the IE department is to follow up the OB

(operational bulletin) and setting up of the line according to the OB. IE department creates the OB

with the use of the GSD (general sewing data).

Production Studies to Increase Efficiency

Production Studies to Increase Efficiency Production Studies to Increase Efficiency

Achieve Targets

Factory IE Discuss & Collects

Reports

M/C & Work Aid Requirement to Maintenance Prepare Workstation Layout

Line Setting According to IE Reports

Procure from Maintenance

Capacity Check Analysis & Feedback

R & D Analysis & Feedback IE Department

43

MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Apart from having quality system and the best practices, machine maintenance is also a very

important area to get quality products. Unacceptable quality of products often results from ill-

maintained machine. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced

downtime and increase life respectively proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid

causalities at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes:

Care of the fitting Adjusting settings Oil changing Out ward/inward reports

Machine configuration charts Needle movement chart Laser stock Needle log cards

The fabric used the percentage of needle time, the speed of machine and operator handling are the

factors, which determine how often the machine requires cleanings. On the floor, the maintenance

shop has a maintenance card for each machine, listing the data a mechanic serviced the machine,

who serviced it, what was done to it and why. A series of similar repairs occurring sooner than

normal would signal maintenance that something is radically wrong with the machine or that the

machine is being misused by the operator and the matter is checked out immediately. The general

procedure for preventive maintenance of sewing machines involves the following steps:

Remove the face plate and clean it. Remove the needle plate clean the feed dog. Remove the belt guard and clean it. Adjust the V- Belt tension. Tight the (Z) stand and thread stand. Check the oil lubricating pipe, if any damage replaces it. Check all the timings and adjust it.

Control panel cleaning:

Clean the PC Board with soft brush. Do not clean with blow air or use suction device. Clean the synchronizer properly. Keep the sewing table clean. Do not allow anyone to put the sticker on the table.

The maintenance schedule is carried out floor wise. Every production floor is provided with a

team of two mechanics, one assistance and one helper, which take care of the day to day

maintenance, break downs and settings of the machine. Whenever there is a breakdown of the

machine on the floor it is immediately shifted to the maintenance department and the same is

replaced with new machine from the stock so that production is not disrupted. Oil checking is

done on weekly basis and changing of the oil and servicing of the machines is done every three

months.

44

A workshop in this department caters to the need of new making new folders, guides and

modifying other attachments as developed by the R & D department for better production. It is

also the operation theatre for the machines.

Machine maintenance also carries the purchase and receiving activities. Its purchase action has

track of every inventory including a needle present in the factory stock and procures new

inventory whenever needed. Stock register is maintained with discipline.

Total Number of Machines in the Organization

The types feed used in the machine:

Top feed Drop feed Variable feed Differential feed

Puller feed Compound feed Reverse feed

S.NO

M/C TYPES C.M

105/G

105/F

105/S

105/T

200

201

204

660

M/5/4

M7/18

TOTAL

1 S/N REGULAR 1 217 250 176 169 65 141

232

1 688 89 2029

2 S/N NEEDLE FEED 13 17 98 38 28 20 40 25 0 68 16 363

3 S/N T AND B FEED 18 3 1 1 8 0 0 0 67 1 99

4 S/N U.B.T 22 95 98 49 13 105

75 40 0 388 23 908

5 S/N EDGE CUTTER 9 21 18 8 38 10 27 25 0 16 3 175

6 D/N LOCK STITCH 10 58 78 13 55 22 4 18 0 7 1 266

7 D/N CHAIN STITCH 2 1 9 2 0 0 1 7 0 29 2 53

8 OVERLOCK 16 36 49 17 94 23 52 36 0 290 54 667

9 BUTTON STITCH 14 5 6 2 0 3 4 0 0 0 0 34

10 BUTTON HOLE 11 5 4 2 0 1 3 0 0 0 0 26

11 BARTACKING 15 6 8 2 0 0 2 1 0 1 0 35

12 EYELET 5 3 4 0 0 1 2 0 0 0 0 15

13 PNUEMATIC SNAP BUTTON

0 7 2 7 0 1 2 2 0 0 0 21

14 THREAD TRIMMING

21 0 0 0 3 0 1 2 0 26 26 79

15 OTHER+SPECIALISED

134 24 32 27 23 7 17 9 0 129 81 483

TOTAL 291 498 657 344 431 258

371

397

1 1709 296 5253

45

The types of beds available:

Flat bed Cylinder bed

Post bed Feed of the arm

The attachments used:

T-guide Sewing guide Magnetic guide Three corner guide Bearing elastic holder Right tape stands Top tape stands Bottom tape stands Right compensating pressure foot Left compensating pressure foot Right/left slim compensating foot Double compensating pressure

foot

Quilting foot Teflon foot

Edge foot Zipper foot Imitation folder Plait folder Plait hammer Plait binder Top stitch attachment Cuff setter Waist band folder Piping binder Edge binder Pin tuck attachment Button hole/button stitch spacing

gauge

46

CAD DEPARTMENT

CAD stands for Computer Aided Design. It is one of the most important departments of

export house. This department acts as a Service Department for merchandising, sampling

and cutting department. The working of these three department is highly depends upon

CAD department. Without CAD it is very difficult for these departments to move ahead.

CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of computer to develop analyse

or modify any engineering or garment design.

PROCESS FLOW OF CAD

PATTERN MAKING

ALTERATION OR

GRADING

CUT ORDER PLANNING

DIGITIZING

STYLE/PATTERN

DESCRIPTION

MARKER MAKING

COSTING AND FABRIC

ORDER

PRINTING FOR CUTTING

47

Basic software which is used for computer aided designing in Modelama is as follows:

1. Modaris 2. Diamino 3. Optiplan

1. Modaris

This software performs the following functions:

Pattern making Pattern modification Pattern digitizing Pattern grading

With the help of this software we can export and import pattern to another place in soft

copy.

2. Diamino

This software is used for marker making. It can be manual or automatic. Efficiency of

marker as decided as per the garment in this seam allowances are also added.

Functions per formed by this software are as follows:

All markers making with minimum wastage. Solution of problems created due to centre selvedge, length variation and

side selvedge with best efficiency.

3. Optiplan

This software is used when buyer send uneven ratio. Functions performed by

optiplan are:

All the cutting planning of size ratio is done by the software.

Main equipment used in CAD:

Pattern pieces Digitizer Software Plotter:

o FLY PEN o ALYS-30

48

REQUIREMENT OF CAD

For Merchandising Department:

Costing- CAD gives the costing to merchandising dept. means it gives the average fabric consumed per garment. It is calculating by placing the pattern pieces of two

medium size garments in the fabric. Costing depends upon type of fabric and buyer

requirement.

Fabric order booking- After calculating the average fabric consumed per garment, calculation for the total fabric required is done accordingly. To the no. of garments

to be manufactured. After this calculation order is placed.

Tracing pattern for buyer- CAD provides a tracing paper to merchandising dept. which is further delivered to the buyer.

For sampling department:

Pattern digitizing- In CAD, the pattern pieces are digitizing and a record of these pattern is maintained for further correspondence.

Alterations- If any alteration is required in the sample, according to the buyer, then it is done in CAD.

Grading- In CAD, different sizes such as XS, S, L and XL are made from medium size by increasing or decreasing the garment dimension in equal proportion to make a

sampling size-set.

For cutting department:

Marker- An efficient cutting marker is provided to the cutting department by the CAD for production.

APPLICATION OF CAD:

Offered significant reduction in lead times. Reduction in labour costs for generating new styles & modifying existing ones. Achieving significant reductions in fabric utilization. Blocks images stored in computer. Grading technique replaced by expert system. The grading technique, developed by

grades over many years in the form of tables, has been entered in to the computer

for use in a primitive expert system, so that grading is now auto matched.

Percentage wasted computed and displayed for each layout. Fabric pattern constraints incorporate in the program. Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM. Lay markers deskilled. Wages reduced.

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As the operator starts making the marker he/she can be supplied with a computed ratio of cloth wasted.

MARKER MAKING

A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of specific style

that are to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making is a process of developing a jigsaw diagram which is superimposed on the

top of a ground of a superimposed plies as a guide for cutting these plies.

It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric and

distribution sizes.

Cut order planning determines:

How many markers are needed? How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of plies that will

be cut from each marker?

EFFICIENCY OF MARKER PLANNING

The marker plan measures the efficiency by the following formula:

Since the reduction in fabric cost is an important factor so the company should try and

discover the area for improvement in marker efficiency.

WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT

PATTERN ENGINEERING An examination of the seams location to ensure the possible placement of pattern in

marker

HEMS ALTERATION ALLOWANCES Means dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped pattern into two pieces to better

accommodate in the marker

THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH The best width depends among other factor on the cost of various fabric

width/square meter, the typical number of sizes in a marker, the potential pattern

engineering changes at various width and the marker efficiency achieve.

Efficiency = Area of the pattern pieces * 100/Total

area

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WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING

SPREADING

LAYERING

TICKETING

CUTTING

MANUAL/AUTOMATIC

BUNDLING

CHECKING

FUSING

TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION

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SPREADING

Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of specified

length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for further processing.

Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and marker issued by the CAD dept.

PROCESS FLOW OF SPREADING:

FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE

TRANSFERRED TO THE CUTTING TABLE

PERFORATRED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE

AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM

VACCUME IS TURN -ON IN THE SPREADING TABLE

AUTOMATIC/MANUAL SPREADING IS DONE

PROPER TENTION IS MAINTAINED WHILE

WHEN FINISHED, VACCUME IS TURNED OFF

MARKER IS SPREAD OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE

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Points to be considered during spreading process:

Ply alignment Ply alignment can be straight edge or centred edge. Ply tension Tight spread and slack spread should avoid during the spreading

process otherwise pattern can undersized or oversized respectively.

Tight edge spread can be removing by putting notches or cutting the tight edge.

Grain alignment It should always consider during spreading process. Static charge In spreading it refers to the electric charge generate during

spreading.

Surface direction It means the pile direction or the design direction of the fabric which is to be spread. It is very important factor in various types of spreading.

Damage placement Efficiency measured by economy with which damages are removed. Fabric like lycra, spandex, wool blends are relaxed for 10 to 12 hrs, prior to

spreading.

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CUTTING

Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with the help

of cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in different no. or as a

whole to make a complete product. The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the

cutting of material into the necessary pattern shapes. These patterns are then joined to

form a garment when large amount of garment style has to be cut, a lay is created, which

consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all

sizes are cut from this lay. The main objective of the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment

parts accurately and economically and in sufficient value to keep the sewing room supplied

with work.

Objectives:

To maintain the quality of the cut components. To cut the raw material in required shape and quality. Availability of cut components on time.

Types of cutting devices:

5 fusing machine 16 straight knife 6 edge cutters 2 computer aided machines 4 spreader 1 round knife

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production

manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given

amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the

following details:

1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other trims averages.

2. Measurement sheet. 3. Design worksheet of the garment. 4. Purchase order. 5. Fabric requisition sheet. 6. CAD mini marker. 7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colours in which the patterns are

to be cut.

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Along with this an approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The

cutting department checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the

production manager sends the cut order. Firstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern

(medium size) send by the CAD room to check for any amendments in pattern. These

activities are coordinate by the R&D dept. When the patterns are amended the production

manager gets a size set cut and these pieces are stitches and QC on the floor locates any

discrepancies related to pattern in the stitched and the QC on the floor locates any

discrepancies related to pattern in the stitched garments. Report with comments for

alternation in the patterns is sent if needed and the pattern master allocated to that style

corrects the patterns accordingly. The marker planning is also done afresh to incorporate

the changes. Only when the production manager is sure of the waist pattern, he will issue

the job order for bulk cutting.

All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production

department against the job order. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity

required the no. of pieces mentioned in job card using the average given by the CAD dept.

about 5% is cut more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage for

production.

CUTTING AVERAGE

The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is responsible

for keeping control over the total consumption (grams) of fabric per garment piece cut this

consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting average. During marker

planning, the CAD rule sends theoretical consumption of fabric as per its marker, which is

calculated as following:

Where

Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for each

garment. Hence it is very important that it is maintained during the bulk cutting also. The

cutting manager finds out his actual cutting average before the bulk cutting and tries to

keep it as close as possible to the average predicted by the CAD.

Cutting average = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square) * GSM of the fabric

10,000

Area of one piece = length of the fabric

Total no. of pieces in the marker

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CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENTS

1. Layering and spreading 2. Cutting 3. Bundling and ticketing

4. Fusing area 5. QA department

TICKETING

Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut

components are grouped together as per their sizes and are taken to the checking table.

Here the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that

pieces cut from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot

there bolt to bolt variation in colour shade.

FUSING

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from

the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the

components to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing material are kept

between to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine by means of

temperature and pressure fusing takes place at particular speed and for a particular time.

The pack comes out at the other end on conveyors and the pieces are removed and re-

bundled.

Parameters affecting the fusing process:

Pressure- Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even contact between the interlining and outer cloth takes place and uniform heat is supplied to

the adhesive. Pressure should be adequate for the correct penetration of resin

among the fibres of fabric.

Temperature-It is another important parameter. It depends upon the type of resin used in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry thermoplastic

resin into a molten state so that it can flow properly between the fabrics. If

temperature is low it gives proper flow of resin and if it is high it gives too much flow

of resin and the resin will come out.

Time- Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure. It should be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric

can takes place.

Types of fusing used in fusing:

Woven fusing Non-woven fusing Knitted fusing

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CHECKING

The ticked panels are now sending to the checking area for inspection of every individual

piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, in appropriate

size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cuts, shade variation etc. that are not

within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting

component checking report is filled for the total quantity cut, checked and approved. The

rejected pieces are sent back and equal no. of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in

the set and ticketed with the same no. as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are

marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment

finishing or washing.

BUNDLING

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using

ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant. Each

bundle will contain pieces of same style and same size only. These pieces are stored in racks

made beneath the cutting table. The cutting department issues the amount required by the

production dept. as and when ask for. The cut component may be issued in instalment or all

at once as the need of the production dept. against the job order.

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PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

PPC stands for Production Planning and Control. PPC controls the planning and give the

guidance from fabric to shipment. The main of PPC is to create the deadlines for each

process and coordinate with various departments. The PPC department receive the required

information such as style no./item description, fabric type and projected quantity from the

PD team. PPC team will send GSS along with the necessary details to the dept. or the R & D

report to be made. Based on the R & D report the construction feasibility and cost analysis

of the style will be done by the PPC department. The PPC dept. prepares a monthly capacity

budget for each production unit.

ROLE OF PPC

1. Feasibility study- Based upon

a. Type of machine b. No. of machine c. No. of process involved d. Fabric type e. Order quantity

2. Capacity study- Based upon a. Availability study b. Planned hours c. Machinery capacity d. Expect absenteeism and turn over e. Planned efficiency

3. Budget planning- Based upon a. Committed delivery date b. Order quantity

4. Line planning- Based upon a. SMV of the style b. Efficiency of the operator c. Efficiency of the line d. No. of lines in the unit

5. Unit efficiency Based upon a. No. of lines b. Lines efficiency c. Production dates

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6. Create deadlines- Create deadline for each process.

7. Periodic orders- a. Order quantity b. Style and fabric type c. No. of process involved d. Delivery date

8. Creating good relationship- Building the good relationships among the departments for smooth process flow.

9. Receiving reports- Daily status report will be sent to the PPC by all dept. from the formats which are created by PPC.

REPORTS GENERATED UNDER PPC DEPARTMENT

I. On time shipment report- a. Cut to ship b. Order to ship

II. Efficiency report III. Factory cost report IV. PCD report V. Fabric performance report

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SEWING DEPARTMENT

The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit

level.

Production is an act of producing a product i.e., quantity obtained by multiplying two

quantities together by making use of available resources.

To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or raw material &

output goods and services is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each other.

Therefore an increase in production leads to fall in the cost per unit & rise in profit.

The production department is spread in two floors, Ground floor and the First Floor; both

the floors are specialized for their quality product. Ground Floor for basic garments and First

Floor is for jackets, blazers or other Heavy garments. Both floors have a common cutting

dept. so all the sizes of bundles are received from there only.

Production floor follows Assembly Line system. Following are steps to start a production

line:

To study the production file. To study operation bulletin and set line accordingly. Manpower tailors and helpers. Load and feeding lines. To arrange buffer or work-in-progress. Manufacturing. To make daily production and to achieve targets accordingly. To understand bottlenecks stage of production.

Working steps of production department:

Shrinkage production pattern is issued to production floor from CAD dept. Ready patterns are made as per the requirement of production room. Cutting receives from cutting dept. Cross checking of cut panels with patterns. Bundling of cut panels is done. Operation wise feeding of cut panel into the line. Inline checkpoints. Output of line. Final checkpoints. Auditing of checked pieces.

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Some important production points:

Ratio between worker and machinery Bottleneck area to be considered In most of machine, guide is there They are using cartons to moving bundles They generate report for broken needle Complete assembly is divided in 6 parts, in end of every part there was a record

sheet, which shows early target input, actual input, target output and actual output.

According to this they can find out bottleneck area.

PRODUCTION CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN TWO WAYS

A. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM

B. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM

A. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM

In this system workflow in line one operator make one complete garment. It is very

time consuming and increase the manufacturing cost of a garment so it is not

commonly used.

B. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM

In this production system a garment is being stitched by no. of workers, therefore

one part is stitched by one worker and then passed on to other, due to which line

gets setup. In the end assembly of all the parts is done, in modern industries

conveyor belts are used as a medium of transportation of garment part from one

worker to another. This system is very commonly used in industry as it reduces the

manufacturing cost increases the production.

SMART MRT SYSTEM

Smart MRT production system is modular chain system. A Smart MRT system is used

for assembly line system. Smart MRT saves the helper work and timing and this