report final

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

A A

SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORTSUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT

AtAt

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD, BENGALURUSHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD, BENGALURU

(UNIT-7A)(UNIT-7A)

A Summer Internship Report for partial Fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree in

Masters of Fashion Technology-Apparel Production

Department of Fashion Technology

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

BATCH – 2009-11

SUBMITTED BY :

SUBRAMANIUM GS

M.F.Tech (A.P.)

1Summer Internship Report 2010


PREFACE

National Institute of Fashion Technology is a premier institute under Ministry of Textiles, Govt.

of India and is responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India.

Department of fashion Technology is imparting education in crucial areas of technology

application in garment manufacturing.

The industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom principles with industry

application for the students. This internship helps industry to analyze day-to-day activities with

the help of internees who in turn will learn practical application of different principles and will be

able to draw inferences.

This report attempts to present my experiences as an internee in India’s premier export house,

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT.LTD, BENGALURU. I basically worked with the production

department but it involved interaction with the other departments as well.

The aim of this internship program was to gain practical knowledge in our area of specialization

i.e. production. It gave me an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed organization and get the

first-hand knowledge of working under various department of the entire exports house. It gave me

a feel of work culture and the actual environment of working of export-oriented unit. Through this

program I also got to apply theoretical knowledge into practice.

Internship was a great learning experience for me. It helped me to practically see what was

available in the books. I could also learn many new practical aspects of the industry which can't

be learnt through books. At the end internship provides a gateway for the industry.

The final chapter of this report discusses in detail about my project which was done along with a

student from NIFT Bengaluru and is titled “COST OF QUALITY EVALUATION” in various

departments of unit 7-A and to determine the cost of quality percentage for the factory. This

project helped me to know more about the working and functionality of various departments in

detail.



ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

It has all been a great experience being at Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd., Bengaluru. I am

highly thankful to the management and staff for their appreciable support during my internship. I

would like to give my special thanks to Mr. SubhashTiwari (Director). Without his approval,

my internship would have been impossible.

Along with him I must not forget Mr. P. Shivagurunathan(Lean manager). He was my

guide and mentor, who helped me to continue with such a fine project. It was all because of him

that I learnt and inquired.

I thank all my respondents including people from Cutting, Sampling, Sewing, Finishing,

Washing, IE, Stores and Lab who have given me their valuable time by providing me with

sufficient knowledge about the working scenario. The list is unending as the workers were very

co-operative and it seems that without their help I couldn’t have managed to complete my project

and training.

Our sincere thanks go to, Mr. N A Khan (Course- Coordinator, MFT), Ms Riju

Jakhar (Assistant Professor), Ms. Chandni Khatri (Assistant Professor), Ms. Bhavna

Kapoor Verma (Associate Professor), who were our internship coordinators, and all other

faculty members, Master of fashion Technology- Apparel Production, department of fashion

technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi.

Thanking you all.

With regards,

SUBRAMANIUM GS



TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO

1INTRODUCTION

1.1.COMPANY PROFILE

1.2.GENERAL

7

2 DEPARTMENTS

2.1. MERCHANDISING

2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT

2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

2.10. CAD ROOM

2.11. CUTTING ROOM

2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

2.13. IED DEPARTMENT

2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT

2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT

10

14

18

21

24

29

32

35

38

42

44

51

60

62

66

68

3 PROJECT3.1.TITLE3.2. METHODOLOGY3.2.1. SELECTION OF THE STYLES3.2.2. COLLECTION OF DATA

7065

73

82



3.2.3.TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING3.2.4.COMPILATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA3.3.CONSOLIDATED COQ DEPARTMENT WISE

86

116

4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 4.1.FINDINGS4.2.RECOMENDATIONS4.3.CONCLUSION

119122123

5 FORMATS



SHAHI EXPORTS PVT LTD., BENGALURU

VISION

Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of

Fashion & feelings of comfort.

QUALITY POLICY

We are an organization of noble culture with competent human resources,

multi products expertise and continuous process improvement, committed

delight customers by consistently delivering high quality product on time.

QUALITY OBJECTIVE

Delivering quality product on time

Minimizing quality cost

Increasing productivity

Continuous improvement

Employee development



CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

1.1.COMPANY PROFILE:

Name of the Company : SHAHI EXPORT PVT. LTD. (UNIT-7A)

Year of Establishment : Jan, 2006, Shahi (wovens) Unit-7A

1974 (Faridabad), 1988 (Bangalore)

No. of Units :Delhi & NCR -14, Bangalore- 25 (19Woven’s+6 Knits)

Managing Director : Mr. Harish Ahuja

Type of Organization :Pvt.Ltd. Export Oriented

Annual Turnover(All units ) :Rs1500.Crore

Total Workforce (Unit-7A) :2500

Total Batch/Lines (Unit-7A) :20

Capacity (Unit-7A) : 1.5 lakh Pcs /Month (Approx)

Address (Unit-7A) :Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore. 560035

1.2. GENERAL

Established in Delhi in 1974, Shahi Exports stand vertically integrated as one of the

largest manufacturer and Exporter in India, offering ready to wear garments for Ladies, Men and

Children. Bangalore operations began on 1st July 1988 with 250 associates and 104 machines. In

the last 30 years it has expanded by 60 times, with 33 integrated State of Art production units.

Factories are equipped with State of the art manufacturing technology automated machines,

thereby ensuring consistency and optimum efficiency. Shahi has invested resources in creating its

own fabric base for both woven and knits. Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and printing mill and

knitting facility. Shahi also offer widest choice of fabrics for garments mainly shirts with

continuous fabric Developments and Innovations through its own Design Studio.

Shahi, Faridabad is the Corporate Head Office and all the marketing merchandising

functions are done there. At Bangalore, there are 19 garments Units handling woven garments and

6 Units in Knitted. All the activities of Woven Division at Bangalore are coordinated from the



main office from Unit-7 at Belandur Gate, Sarjapur Main road, Bangalore. 560035, and the

activities of Knits division is monitored from Knits Head, Unit No. 12 # 37/1B, Arekere,

Bannerghatta Road, - 560 076, INDIA Marketing office located in NEW YORK ,USA will

procure the indirect orders and sent it to the Delhi office for execution, planning will be done for

execution of the orders and the head office at Delhi will allocate and distribute the orders to new

Delhi or Bangalore production plants.

Unit 7 is the Bangalore head office, where the orders are received. From Bangalore head office

orders are distributed to various production units according to their production capacity.

Centralized department rendering service to all the units in BangaloreProduction Service

Accessories store Washing department Embroidery department Cutting department Laboratory Fabric inspection department

Sourcing department Accounts department Documentation department Personnel department

The organization works on a single ERP system, MOVEX, which unifies all the departments

working and leads to efficient functioning. This allows handling the manufacturing, logistics and

distribution, shipping, invoicing, and accounting for the company.

There are different Strategic Business Units in Shahi Exports as follows:

LSD – Ladies Specialty Division

LFD – Ladies Fashion Division

LDD – Ladies Dress Division

MNB – Men’s and Boys Division

PRODUCTS:

Unit-7A ,is mainly focused on LADIES TOPS

1. Blouses

2. Dresses

3. Shirt



4. Tunic

5. Camp shirt

Other units product are:

1. Tops casual wear 7. Polo

2. Dress shirts 8. Hoody

3. Denim wear 9. Crew neck

4. Wrinkle free shirts and blouses 10. Cargo shorts

5. Bottoms casual wear 11. Night wear

6. Ladies /Men’s shirt 12. Fleece jacket

BUYERS

1. GAP 9. LANE BRYANTS 16. SEARS

2. OLD NAVY 10. KOHLS 17. TOMMY HILFIGER

3. A&F 11. VETIR 18. WALMART

4. CATO 12. JCP 19.AMERICAN EAGLE

5. DECATHLON 13. H&M 20. ESPIRIT

6. HOLLISTER 14. TARGET 21. MARKS & SPENCER

7. ANN TAYLOR 15. BANANA REPUBLIC

8. RALPH LAUREN



CHAPTER 2

2.1. MERCHANDISING

Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and

presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from

start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers

work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams

are made according to the buyers being handled.

Two type of merchandising done in shahi exports

Marketing merchandising.

Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising

Main function of marketing merchandising is

Product Development

Costing

Ordering

Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct

contact with the buyer.

Product merchandising

Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from

sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till

shipment.



A Merchandisers key responsibilities are as follows:-

Product Development

Market and product Analysis

Selling the concept

Booking orders

Confirming Deliveries

Designing and Sampling

Costing

Raw Material

Flow Monitoring

Production Follow Ups

Payments Follows

Department structure

MARKETING MERCHANDISER

HEAD MERCHANDISER

SENIOR MERCHANDISER

JUNIOR MERCHANDISER



In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the

garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.

Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with

buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the

necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples

approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,

approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product

development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate

with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall

we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

Costing

The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of

production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing

occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.

These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost

etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done

accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.


Start

Obtain tech pack from buyer

Sampling

Analyze fabric consumption from CAD

Analyze cost of trims and fabric

Obtain general sewing data from IED

Prepare cost sheet from sample

Develop sample as per the tech pack

Develop proto sample

Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval

Approval

Cost sheet reworked

Confirmation of order

Obtain PCD & details from production unit

Source trims & fabric from

concerned dept.

Book washing & embroidery capacity if required

Obtain GSD from IED

Execution of order by entering details in MOVEX

Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

Forward the sample to buyer for approval

Approval

Comments received from buyer should be incorporated and fit sample reworked

Hold pre production meeting with the production unit

Execute bulk order

Costing

Follow up with production departments & update the buyer

Submit required documents to documentation dept

Offer garments for final inspection. Truck out

Follow up on the payments for goods

End

NoYes

NoYes




2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW;

In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments

and it plays a vital in the upliftment of a unit.

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production

department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to

check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s

specification.

Merchandiser procures order from the buyer.The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric

details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this

information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and

approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.

In Shahi, Sampling department is centralized in unit-7 of Shahi, Bangalore for wovens.

Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments

are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start

off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of

production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating

correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric

consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.

It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled and makes a complete

make through garment. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and

requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.



TYPES OF SAMPLES

Proto Sample:

Fit Sample:

Pilot Run Sample:

Pre Production Sample:

Pre Size set:

Size Set:

Garment Package Test Sample:

Show Room Sample:

TOP Sample:

Shipment Sample:

Counter Sample:

Sales Sample:

Machine details

There were a total of 80 machines in the sampling department.

5 cutting tables

8 pattern making tables

1 conveyor belt fusing machine

Finishing machines

11 ironing tables

1 shirt folding machine



Other machines

SNLS machine

DNLS machine

Bartack machine

Overlock machine

Kansai Special

Zigzag Lockstitch machine

Blind stitch machine

and others

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached

to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded

and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no.

Color

Fabric

Composition

Description

Quantity

Style no/ Size

Store




Tech pack received from merchant

Develop patterns

Costing CAD marker

Develop sample

Develop fit/proto sample

Revise Fit/Proto sample

PP sample

Revise PP sample Size set sample

Incorporate buyer comments

Sealer sample

Incorporate buyer comments

Bulk production (shrinkage to be added if it’s a wash program)

If no comments

If no comments

If no comments

If no comments

If any comments comments




Fig 3: Workflow of sampling


2.3. FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its

merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising

department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and

cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute

their function effectively.

Fabric Store:

The capacity of the store is about 100,000Mts.

The Sourcing of Fabric is being done mainly from:

1. Yarn Dyed – Salem & Tirupur

2. Printed Fabric – Ghaziabad(Shahi own Mill)

3. Denim fabric – Arvind Mills, Ashima Textile

4. Imported Fabric – According to buyer’s specification from China, Hong kong

etc

Examples of certain Mills that specializes in some particular types of fabric is as follow:

Vardhman mills(H.P) specializes in Solid Dyed 40s Poplin

Arvind mills specializes in all types of fabric Denims, Knits, Bottom wear

Ashima mills specializes in all type of high end fabrics

STORAGE

Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked

fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such a system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate

the fabric whenever needed in future.

FABRIC ISSUE

The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it

is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and

quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.



FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Order placed

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading after checking

Tally with supplier invoice for quality

Send bill to gate for entry

Receive fabric in store

Forward fabric for inspection

Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.

After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted

If accepted

Relocation in store

Issue against job order




Start

Sampling

Technical analysis. Vendor evaluation/selection of vendor

Placement

D/L

Submit to buyer

If Ok

Sampling yardage/ lab tests

Final approval by buyer

Redo D/L

If not Ok

Placement, lab dips/strike offs submission to buyer

Rate finalisation, sampling yardage, lab tests

Final submission to buyer

End

Receiving order, technical analysis/ process starts for technical development, vendor selection

Rate quotation from different mills

TNA/Execution plan/placement of order for production

On line inspection

If Ok If not Ok

Lab testing as per buyer requirement

Mending/cleaning/washing

Despatch to vendor’s godown

Technical monitor/ corrective measures

Process

If required

Sanforising/dyeing/prints/OXO/washing/wet processing

Lab test as per buyer requirement

Third party inspection as per buyer standards

Third party inspection as per buyer standards

If not required

Pass Pass

Vendor evaluation/ feedback to vendor

End

Reject

If not Ok

Bulk


2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department :

The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference

is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing

department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the

same. The working is as follows.

The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular

style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for

costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the

price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its

production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button

is Rs.32 then a CST of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the

transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is

also taken into consideration).

This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing

purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer

based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other

concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and

accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the

purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all

the orders irrespective of the buyer.

Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned

department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the

supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer. In case of getting the accessories



and trims for the sampling purposes then only a small quantity say about 100 – 200 pieces are

ordered and the supplier charges the minimum amount or sometimes gives it free of cost.

After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also

checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them

are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received

in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser

according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this

breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then

the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be

sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.

Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and

when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the

department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the

inspections that are being carried out for those materials.

The communication between the merchandiser and the purchase department happens

mainly through phone calls but no matter however small the situation is, both the departments

maintain a e-mail also i.e., along with the phone call they send an e-mail also. Communication

between the supplier and the purchase department happens purely through e-mails. All these e-

mails, receipts, PO’s, PI’s, Formats, Order formats, etc., are maintained as a hard copy also.




Start

Indents MRS/IOM/Mails from units

Authorization from HOD/CEO for capital items

Call for quotes in case of new items

Evaluation of quotes by HOD

Raising PO on supplier & taking approval from manager commercial

Follow-up with supplier for deliveries

Material receipt in the unit

Material inspected accompanied by appropriate documents

If Approve

d

Goods inwards

Acknowledged documents forwarded to purchase

Stock updated in the unit

Returned to supplier and inform purchase

End

If Yes If No


2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

The fabric audit department for the woven division of SEPL is centralized. It is at unit – 7. The main objectives of this department are:

Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods. Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.

Inspection is done on the following grounds:

100% shade segregation is done. 100% width segregation is done. 15% fabric inspection is done for defects. 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics. The fabric is checked in full width form only. The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.

SHADE SEGREGATION

The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:

The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report. Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut

for lab tests if any.

¼ meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades. Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is matched.

In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also. While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching

cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources. The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing

departments, cutting departments for approval and references. All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.

FABRIC INSPECTION


IN STICKER ACTUALBALE NO. PIECE NO.

FOLD LENGTH (IN CMS)

WIDTH (IN INCHES)

EPI PPIMETERAGE

THICK THIN SLUBWARP & WEFT

DEFECTSYARN DEFECTS

PENALTY POINTS FOR DEFECTSBOWING LEVEL

(IN INCHES)CS/SS

VARIATIONOTHERS TOTAL

POINTSPRINTING/DYEING DEFECTS & STAINS

WEAVING DEFECTS


In SEPL, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification of serious defects in the subsequent process. Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :

LEVEL POINT INDICATION0-3 inches 1 Yellow3-6 inches 2 Green6-9 inches 3 NavyOver 9 inches 4 Red

Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:o 30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.

o 40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric.

For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq. yards is calculated as:Points / 100 sq yard = (total no. of points * 3300) / (width in inches * length

in mtrs)Example:-PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yardsFAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards

Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is recorded which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.

The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by supplier.

For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality standard reference randomly.

Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every consignment order for shrinkage test.

The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).T

he GIR reports have following categories:


POINTS/100 SQ. YARDS

THAN CLASSIFICATIONACCEPTED BELOW

40 POINTSREJECTED ABOVE 40

POINTS


There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is specified.

When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 – point system, the defects are marked with different colored stickers for different types of defects as:

Red Sticker Weaving Defect

Blue Sticker Processing Defect

Green Sticker Other Defects

Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings are kept for reference.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

The width is checked and average width is mentioned. The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned. The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable. Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable. For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:

WIDTH LEVEL

Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable

45 to 60 inches 1.5” acceptable

60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable

After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the respective roll. It contains following information:

Tag used:



This sticker is of green color for the pass fabrics and magenta for the rejected fabric rolls or takkas.

MACHINE DETAILS: RAMSONS CHECK MATE

Type R 501Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 HzPower output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 HzGear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.Power consumption 0,75 kw

PRIMARY AND SECONDARY LIGHT SOURCES FOR VARIOUS BUYERS

S. NO BUYER NAMEPRIMARY LIGHT

SECONDARY LIGHT

1 GAPCWF INCA

2 HOLLISTER3 A & F INCA

D 654 CATO

TL 845 DECATHLON6 LANE BRYANT7 KOHLS8 VETIR D 65 TL 849 JCP U 30 INCA10 H & M TL 83

D 65

11 GYMBOREEUL 3012 TARGET

13 SEARS14 TOMMY HILFIGER

CWF15 WALMART16 AMERICAN EAGLE

D 65 INCA17 ESPIRIT EUROPE’S


I-BangalorePass fabric

Bale no.- Pc no.-Fabric - Qty- Colour- Width-No. of points- Date- By- Shade-Face side-

Receive fabrics

Start

Conduct shrinkage test on minimum 2 bits/bale or minimum 10 bits of consignment

Forward one meter of each consignment for lab test

Verify whether quantity received match with quantity ordered

Inform to stores and prepare goods received note (in case of imported fabric)

Inspection based on four points system. Match bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabric etc.

Name shade lot as ABC

Send to merchant for buyer’s approval

If approvedForward to cutting department

End

Reject lot

If No

If No

If No

If Yes

If Yes

If Yes




2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department:

The accessory stores here is the central stores in the seventh unit is the centralized unit.

The accessory stores generally receives the materials from three different locations and they can

be classified into,



Faridabad

Domestics

Imports

The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents

i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and recieval whenever they are done they are done

according to the documents that has been received from the merchants and also the department

also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.

The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would

have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the

accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular

material they will make a note of it in their MOVEX that they will be receiving that material and

this is termed as PRE GRN.

Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person

verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have

received from the merchant as already stated.

After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they

carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the

buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods

received.

AQL quantity chart:

Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept

less than 151 8 0

151-280 20 0



281-500 32 1

501-1200 32 1

1201-3200 50 2

3201-10000 80 3

10001-35000 125 5

35001-150000 200 7

150001-5000000 315 10

500000-above 500 14

After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims based on the

nature of the item.

Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the

documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills

whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill

other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them

about the materials in-housed.

After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,

Process selection :In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery

challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the

document for processing.


Start

Accept & receive materials against documents

Prepare PRE GRN

Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list

Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5

Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item

Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded to accounts for payment

PROCESS SELECTION

PRODUCTION ISSUES

Prepare work order

Prepare delivery challan

Forward trims along with documents for processing

Identify trims which have been approved by merchants

Prepare delivery challan & keep trims ready to issue to the factories

Materials to be issued after inspection by security against DC

End


Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been

approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to



issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as

already mentioned.

2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT




Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the

merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the

company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps

them to know the capacity of the production floor.

On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the

PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,

planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style

to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line

openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.

The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order

Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in

which that particular order has been placed with.

The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three

other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the

particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that

has to be followed.

Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity

based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components

in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines

required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing

of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style

and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of

the operators with respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment

for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire

style.

Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the

PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the

GM and FM.

Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a

confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates

on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation



they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and

finishing departments.

After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation

obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the

merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management

every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about

3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the

batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are

committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators

and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This

sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.

Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,

this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of

the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.

Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely

being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.

The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the

production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit

idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.

The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the

IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different

departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of

mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then

the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.



2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT


Start

On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units based on line openings and buyer’s ratings

Provide details to the respective units on PCD, order quantity & sample

Confirm the above details given to concerned units in consultation with GM & FM

Confirm in consultation with embroidery, washing departments

Confirm order plan with merchandising team

Provide MIS report to management every fortnight

Planning follow up with factory till order execution

End

Take inputs from IED on productivity based on garment analysis



The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments

that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several

tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for

such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or

accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized

ones with the buyers and the merchants approval.

The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in

Bangalore city.

The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments

and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.

Fabric Sourcing department:

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later

may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it

receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for

the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount

then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular

fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.

Count

Construction

Colour fastness to washing

Colour fastness to crocking

Dimensional stability to washing

Fabric strength

Fabric weight

Accessory Stores:

The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the

sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be



carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists

of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,

Button breaking test

Coloured laces and tapes are tested for colour fastness

Colour fastness test for elastics

Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability

Corrugated box

Merchandising Department:

The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests

which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The

garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as

per the buyer specifications.

After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment

fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer

specifies.

Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a

fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a

format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular

material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, colour and other material

related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.

The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:

Types of tests.

Urgency of the task.

Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.

Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.

Time required in getting the proper and the required output.

Number of samples that has to be tested.

Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the

departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and

the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and

then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of



tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then

after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the

concerned department form where they have got it.



2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Apart form having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a

very important are to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-



maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward

reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary

to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;

Care of the fittings

Adjusting settings

Oil changing

Graph maintenance

Outward/inward reports

Needle weekly reports.

Machine configuration chart

Laser stock

History card

Needle log cards.

The maintenance department stock of m/c

MACHINE VARIATION TYPE UTILITY

LOCKSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 bobbin Placket making, top

stitching, edge stitching,

label making, safety

stitch, attaching self-

fabric neck binding tape

Doule needle

-fixed Bar

-split Bar

2 needle , 2 bobbin

CHAINSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 looper Neck rib, shoulder piping,

cuff top stitching,

shoulder top stitchingDouble needle

- tandom needle

- straight needle

1 needle, 1 looper



OVERLOCK 3 thread 1 needle, 2 loopers Shoulder seam

4 thread 2 needle, 2 loopers Side seam, underarm

seam,elastication,shoulder

seam

5 thread 2 needle, 3 loopers Trouser seam

6 thread 3 needle, 3 loopers Armhole seam,shoulder

seam

FLAT LOCK 3 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers Neck binding, cuff

binding, bottom hemming

4 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers 1

Spreader

Cover seam, bottom

hemming


Spreader

elastication


Spreader

Side seam

SPECIALISED

SEWING

MACHINERY

Shell stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers Decorative purpose,

dense overlock,

elastication, piping,

hemming, securing of

stitch etc

picotting 1 needle, 1 loopers

figotting 2 needle, 2 loopers

Pearl stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers

Blind hemming 1 needle, 2 loopers

Zigzag machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin

scalloping 1needle, 1 looper

(spreader)

Back latch 2 needle, 2 loopers

elastication 2 needle, 2 loopers



Buttonhole machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button hole making

Buttonstitch machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button attaching

Types of needles and their norms

Needle systems

MACHINE NAME NEEDLE BRAND NUMBER

Single needle lockstitch DBX1

Single needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3

Single needle feed DBX1

Double needle lockstitch DPX1

Tandom needle lockstich UYX128/TVX3

Double needle chain stitch UYX128/TVX3

Overlock DCX1/DCX27

Flatlock UYX128/DVX43

Picotting UOX163/TVX7

Scolpping UVX128/DVX43

Smoking DVKX25/DVX57

Shell stitch LS-151

Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1

Bar tack DPX5/DPX17

Button stitch( shank button) TQX3

Button stitch DPX5/DPX7



Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7

Button hole DPX5

Zigzag DBX1

Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118



2.10. CAD ROOM

SHAHI EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of

Optitex software package.

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions:

Determining cutting average for costing

Making the most efficient cutting marker

Development and alteration of patterns

Development of size set pattern by grading

Embroidery graphics making

Digitizing the pattern

Thread consumption

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:

Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.

Graded measurement spec sheet..

Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or tubular form),

tube size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.

Then the work of the CAD room begins.


Receive spec sheet form

Receive patterns from pattern

Digitize pattern to feed in



Pattern correction

Pattern grading

Cut ratio planning

Market planning according to the cut plan ratio

Output mini marker to printer

Output marker to plotter

Send to cutting room for cutting

Send to merchandiser for costing

Output to Graphtec plotter

Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling

WORK FLOW IN CAD

DEPARTMENT


2.11. CUTTING ROOM

Cutting is a process of separating parts form the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production

manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of

styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:

Sampling average, weight of garment ( base fabric consumption only ), other trims

averages.

Measurement sheet

Design worksheet of the garment

Purchase order

Fabric requisition sheet

CAD mini marker

Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be

cut.

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS

Solid cutting

Spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a

manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components

acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the

cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during

cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on

this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.

The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.

While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more

accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the



marker as specified by the CAD. Where as the lay height depends upon the thickness of the

fabric and the capacity of the machine.

Cutting

The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or

CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the

marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are

also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band

knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as

it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

Spread

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces

Block cutting

Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to

requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks

are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching

the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific

number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini

marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.

Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the

hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough

cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again

checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the

patterns.

Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved are also

more due to cutting in two stages.



Spread

Match

Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut patterns

Match

Final precise shaping of patterns

Sorting and Ticketing

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one

garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two

different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-

bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of

marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The

worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the

cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important

means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.



Cut panel checking

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual

piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,

incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not

within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component

checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are

sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed

with the same number as the rejected ones.

Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted

out during garment finishing or washing.

Bundling

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled

using ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle

will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the

amount required by the production department when asked for.

Embroidery

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for

embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up

these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re-

cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched

together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.

Fusing

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated

from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the

components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between

two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the

temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.

The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re

bundled.



Details about machine in the cutting rooms:

Machine Quality Make

Spreading machine 2 F K Arna

Straight knives 10 Eastman

Band knives 1 F K Systema

CAM m/c 1 F K Systema

Fusing m/c 3 Fiblon

Technical features of CAM Cutter

Model: TP 3002, FTR 200/200 Make: FK Systema(Tukatech)

Number : 1

Actual cutting area 2m/2m

Actual vacuum strength 150 milibar (max)

Single bristle diameter 1.3 mm

Bristle length 40 mm

No. of bristle in one replaceable unit 17*17(=289)

Area of bristle unit that can be replaced 51.3 mm*50.64

Maximum layer width after compression 7.5 cm

Cutting speed 0- 40 m/min

Blade sharpening frequency 2.5 m – 3 m (of cutting)

Hard disk memory 850 MB

Inboard computer 486 4 MB RAM 66 MHz

Bristle conveyor movement while cutting yes

Bristle conveyor speed 19 m/min

Drilling yes

List of consumables Knife sharpener wheel, Polythene



Maximum speed of unloading conveyer 48 m/min

Notch depth 2-6 mm

Straight and reverse cutting

Restarting of the cut from any marker point

Rotational speed of the cutting motor 3000 rpm (max)

Technical Features of Spreader

Model : Automat 1 CO, SX Make: FK Arena

Number : 2

Length of spreading table 40 meter

Width of spreading table 6 feet(72”)

Height of spreading table 3 feet(36”)

Table top type smooth, card board type

Spreading mode face one way, nap one way

No of clamps 14

Two air channels on the bottom side of the table surface, along with 12 air nozzles per

square meter.

Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to the particular zone of the table.


Cutting package from production

manager

Acquire fabric from fabric store

Cut sample to check

Require Amende

nts


Yes

No

Yes

NO

No


Cut for initial size set

Assemble and check

Require amendments

Issue job order

Bulk cutting

Sorting

Cut plan

Bundling

Issue

Send to CAD for amendment

Receive amendment

pattern from CAD

WORK FLOW IN

CUTTING

DEPARTMENT


2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT


The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where

they have to produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40 – 55

days.

The production floor will receive the details like,

the style or the garment,

number of operators required,

the batch for which the style has to be installed,

any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,

target for each day

Breakup of the production quantity.

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and

sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are

required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.

Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting

for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this

teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the

production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the

entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will

make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for

the particular style.

Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are

prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is

done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are

checked and sent.

During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are

In-process checking.

Endline checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.



The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking

is done.

The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each

operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each

bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the

next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The

movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion

which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is

partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three

and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.

The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch

which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,

1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.

2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them

the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.

3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to

them.

4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get

him/her their material and ask them to work.

5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.

6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.

7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever

asked for.

8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a

better person to fit into that vacant place.

9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.

10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly

approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the

factory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular

line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of

the operators.




Start

Bulk Production

Cut parts received from cutting

End line checking & AQL audit

Assembly

Parts preparation

Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Rough checking

Ironing

Final checking

Tagging

Packing

FSA Audit

Measurement checking

Auditing by buyer QA

Truck out End

In-Line checking

Washing


2.13. IED DEPARTMENT


The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives

the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,

operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in

determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost

of the factory for that particular style of garment.

The different departments with which the IED works are as follows.

The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production

of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in

knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if

they have to proceed with the item or no.

The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the

given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by

the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose

because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants

suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any

of the steps and the method of doing it.

The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which

includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also

includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different

places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the

TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels

that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked,

the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style

bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.

This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is

required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a

shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely

completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator

based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and

also maintain the quality of their work.



After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the

efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single

operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.

This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this

report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM

value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,

average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working

that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about

the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.

Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified

period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,

The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,

20% - Highly Skilled

25% - Skilled

50% - Semi skilled

This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.

A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.

Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency,

working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.

Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training

for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity

a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a

previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which

he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to

know his skills and then grade is been allocated.

Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the

maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production

review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation

carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated


Skill type Grade

A Highly skilled

B Skilled

C Semi skilled


efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow

the right one.

During batch setting a model of the sewing line or batch is planned in the following manner as

shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which

represent the machines.


Start

Training, selection & development

Work Measurement Systems development

Selection of operators, helpers, supervisors, checkers, QC, etc.

Time study Method study

OPD Analysis

Line balancing

Skill matrix Batch layout Style bulletin

Batch performanc

e

End


TIME STUDY AND ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN WAS STUDIED FOR THE

FOLLOWING STYLE:

Style NO.2 : FL130204T

Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt

Buyer :Walmart

Brand : Faded Glory

Item No : H025, H027

Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo

Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL



SNOoperation description smv opr

ACT time in min

SAM trgt in pcs

SAM trgt in pcs M/C type

85% 100% 85% 1 collar marking 0.45 N 0.53 133 113 TABLE2 clr run st 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT3 clr trim for run stitch 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC4 clr clip & turn with iron 0.48 N 0.56 125 106 TABLE5 clr edge st 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT

6clr band iron

0.38 N 0.45158

134IRON

TABLE7 satin tape attach to NB 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT8 clr band att to top clr 0.51 Y 0.60 118 100 SNLS UBT9 clr peak ready 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS EC

10 clr ready trim & mark 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC

11clr peak turn & crease

0.57 N 0.67105

89IRON

TABLE12 cuff hem 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS UBT13 piping atach to cuff 0.607 Y 0.71 99 84 SNLS UBT14 cuff run st 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS EC

15clr peak turn &iron

0.54 N 0.64111

94IRON

TABLE16 slv open 0.38 N 0.45 158 134 TABLE17 slv snall plt att(folder) 0.52 Y 0.61 115 98 SNLS UBT18 slv tack at plkt 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT

19slvslve big plkt iron

0.72 N 0.8583

71IRON

TABLE20 slv big plkt attch 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT21 slve big plkt dia finish 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT22 back panel box pleat 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT23 back yoke att 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT24 back yoke top st 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT

25back patch fab iron

0.35 N 0.41171

146IRON

TABLE26 label att to back patch fab 0.5 Y 0.59 120 102 SNLS UBT27 patch fab att to back yoke 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT

28frnt bust dart st with side close

1.1 Y 1.2955

46 SNLS UBT


SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY29 frnt pckt hem with trim 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT

30frnt pckt iron

0.6 N 0.71100

85IRON

TABLE31 frnt pckt att mark and set 0.65 N 0.76 92 78 TABLE32 frnt pckt att 0.72 Y 0.85 83 71 SNLS UBT33 bottom btn plkt hem (folder) 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT34 B/H plkt att (kansai) 0.66 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT35 frnt back set(slv, clr & cuff) 1.33 N 1.56 45 38 TABLE36 shoulder att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT37 shoulder top st 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT38 clr att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT39 clr finish uptosatin tape 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT40 clr finish above satin tape 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT41 slv tack 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT42 guesset & btm side edge st 0.659 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT43 sle O/L&btm gusset O/L 1.2 Y 1.41 50 43 5T O/L44 slv top st &gusset T/S 1.08 Y 1.27 56 47 DNLS45 side seam att wth W/C label 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS UBT46 side seam O/L 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 5T O/L47 side seam top st 1.15 Y 1.35 52 44 FOA48 pleat making 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT49 cuff att 0.655 Y 0.77 92 78 SNLS UBT50 cuff finish 0.69 Y 0.81 87 74 SNLS UBT51 cufftop st 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT52 btm stay st 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT53 btm hem 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT54 Total 31.89 Y 37.52

TOTAL SAM 31.89 37.52 OPERATOR SAM 25.34 29.81 NON-OPERATOR SAM 6.55 7.71



2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT


The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the

particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest

embroidery unit in Asia.

The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from the

merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in company,

the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also get a sample

of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use this as their

reference sample / piece.

As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be done

and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and check for

the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch involved for

the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point of the design on the garment while

performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format

and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start the further operation .

After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that has

to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is something

done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been generated then they

conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.

Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be produced is

known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery action on the

garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and the other case is

after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a complete garment.

The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting

department and then they start their embroidery process.

After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts

received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine there

are operators for this process.

The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the maximum

noise that is been produced by the machines.




Start

Receive designs from the merchant

Scan and punch design

Strike- off of design

Samples to be done against orders

Conduct pilot run of the styles

Start bulk production

Trimming & checking

Packing

Delivery

Style reconciliation

End


2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT


Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the

washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style

according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the

texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.

The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will

be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the factory and

then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the washing department to match

the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel and the texture, for this the

merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washing department in case of samples.

The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,

Type of the material.

The texture that is under demand.

The feel and look of the garment under demand.

Types of labels that are been used in the garment.

Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).

Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.

Types of threads used for in sewing.

Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.

The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.

The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.

The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.

The sequence of the processes.

Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.

Duration of the treatment.

After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating the

garments in the desired sequence.

At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the

garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then such

styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.



After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In this

washing there are two types.

1. Wet processing

2. Dry processing

First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry

processing there are four different types they are,

1. Grinding

2. Ripping or Blowout

3. Sandblasting

4. Crinkling

After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet

processing involves mainly two types, they are

1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and pigment

dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the usage of the

dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements.

2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the

washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they are

classified as follows,

Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry

Softener wash

Desize wash

Enzyme wash

Stone enzyme wash

Rubber ball wash

Denim wash

Bleach wash

Tinting/ T- staining

Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such

situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else the

original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the dry

processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing and then

to the washing process.



After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in which

a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler

capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will be

extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that

particular style / garment.

Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are

inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any

organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to

the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.

Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing section

or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after the washing

and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the left over job on

them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.

The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units located

in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the garments from

different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in track of the

garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out for them, the

stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the garments

according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this department maintains a

record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number, PO number, item number,

quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The department maintains these details both

in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department will enter the details in the

MOVEX. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot from the different

units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also phone calls.


Start

Receipt of goods from different units

Segregation (JO wise, unit wise, shade wise)

Washing

As per buyer spec

Wet Processin

g

Dyeing

Reactive Pigment

Washing: softener/acid/desize/enzyme/stone/r

ubber ball/stone enzyme/tinting/normal water wash/

dip n dry/denim

Dry process: grinding/ripping/blowout/sand

blasting/crinkling/whiskering/ severen

Hydro Extraction

Drying

Inspection (Random)

Accounting & despatch to different units

End




2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT


Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applies even to garment

industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their

job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which

are as follows.

Pre-production audit:

In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the

production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples and

precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The size set

samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking

the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these samples and the

auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the garment and the

measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.

For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the

length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt

loops, etc.,

For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and

also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label attachment

areas, etc.,



Cutting audit:

In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing

is further divided into many other departments which are,

1. Spreading

2. Relay cut

3. Band knife

4. Shade

5. Hard pattern

Sewing audit:

In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are

1. In – line audit:

Here the garments are checked during their different stages of

manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment is

split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the end of

each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is auditing.

For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire

manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front, finish if

back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the shirt is being

checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be provided by certain

specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which he checks the garment.

Here every single garment is checked.

2. End – line audit:

Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the

specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical

positions and then the placements of the labels.

Button/button hole :

In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job

is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it



himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the

operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the garment to attach

the button/ making the button holes.

After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related

information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be

sent to the respective departments for rectification

2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT


The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it

plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department includes

majorly of the following steps,

Trimming:

This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.

Inspection:

The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it

depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the

company has to do as specified.

Semi – pressing:

This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes

from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then

inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.

Pressing:

The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments

are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.

Tagging section:



Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are

sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and

miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments

are folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or

sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the buyer’s

specifications again.

The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be

put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these

specifications.

Packing:

The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the

packing of the garments they are as follows,

There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,

1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be

specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag

packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in

the carton box.

2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton

boxes without putting them in the poly bag.

The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different ways

which is as follows,

Solid Packing:

In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single colour

and same size.

For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will be

put in one carton box.

Ratio Packing:

In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different

sizes according to the ratio.



For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.

Mixed Packing:

In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of same

size or garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio form.

After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the

buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will

check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or

rejected.

CHAPTER 3

3.1.PROJECT

TITLE- COST OF QUALITY EVALUATION FOR AN APPAREL MANUFACTURING

UNIT.

INTRODUCTION:

Though the Indian apparel industry has made efforts towards controlling the outgoing quality of the merchandise; the ‘right first time’ quality level in various manufacturing processes needs substantial improvement.

The repair and rejection levels in the Indian apparel manufacturing firms still remain quite high compared to best practice firms in Asia including India.

The majority of time and effort of the quality personnel of apparel manufacturers seem to be devoted to inspecting the already produced merchandise than preventing the defects from arising. This phenomenon can mainly be attributed to the non-understanding of the ‘Cost of Quality’ or in simple words non-understanding of the amount of money wasted due to poor quality.

In this project an attempt has been made to calculate the total cost of quality % for one of the units of Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd(Unit 7A), Bangalore.

OBJECTIVE:

Determining the cost of quality % of the total monthly production of the unit 7A.

Increasing profitability by lower rework and scrap.



Determining cost of quality at various stages of manufacturing.

To find out the company‘s status in the quality maturity grid.

SCOPE:

To reduce quality related costs which can go as high up to 25% of the sales.

To identify the loss of production due to rework and rechecking in various departments

of the organization.

To increase profitability by controlling the cost of quality.

To improve the productivity by reducing the loss of production due to rework.

3.2. METHODOLOGY

The work methodology of the project was carried out by the following steps:

1. Selection of the styles.2. Collection of data.3. Time study analysis for checking.4. Compilation and Data analysis.

Detailed Methodology:

3.2.1. SELECTION OF THE STYLES :

As the aim of the project is to calculate Cost of Quality per month of the factory, we were given two styles from Walmart namely FG30D104 (Women’s dress), FL130204T (Women’s Shirt) which would be a representative of the whole. The above two styles have varied order quantities one smaller and one larger as the larger quantity have lesser defect ratio when compared to smaller quantity because the workers get habituated to the style and produce less defects.

Styles Details:

Style NO.1 : FG30D104

Order Quantity : 19676

Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Dress with Smocking.

Buyer :Walmart

Brand : Faded Glory

Item No : H790



Colors : Blue flower, Red Plaid, Pink Tril, Green.

Picture of Garment:

FRONT BACK

Style NO.2 : FL130204T

Order Quantity


Spreading & Cutting 72581Sewing 42699Finishing 84020Washing 42699


Description : Women’s 100% Cotton Casual full sleeve shirt

Buyer :Walmart

Brand : Faded Glory

Item No : H025, H027

Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo

Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL

Picture of Garment:

FRONT BACK

3.2.2. COLLECTION OF DATA:

Collection of data is a major part in determining the Cost of Quality for the factory. We had collected the data in each department for the two styles whose production was already completed or at the finishing stage from the various records maintained in the departments.



To proceed with this project the major cost parameters are prevention, appraisal, internal failure and external failure for which the following data is needed from various departments where ever applicable.

1. No. of rework/defects.2. Time taken for rework.3. Salaries of Quality people.4. Total quantity.5. Quantity Checked/Inspected.6. Testing and Inspection.

Fabric audit:

Salary of controller/month 6000Salary of checkers/month 3600

Style 1:

Order Quantity

Quality person

Quantity checked

UOM

20463.35 Q.C 3069.50323 GMTs

20463.35 Controller 3069.50323 GMTs

Style 2:

Order Quantity

Quality person

Quantity checked

UOM

279464 Q.C 41919.58499 Mtrs

279464 controller 41919.58499 Mtrs



CUTTING AND SPREADING:

The data collected from this department are total quantity for this order which we got from daily and monthly production reports, quantity checked by checkers and Q.C people which we observed is checkers are checking 100% and Q.C are doing random audit, so we have followed up one day and noted how much time he spends on that day and divided it by whole number of pieces. We got salaries of the quality people by our mentor MR.Shivagurunathan, and finally the total re cut quantity we got it from re cut records for different styles.


Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/monthSalary of Quality Checkers 3600/month

Style 1 Total Cut Quantity 19976 GMTs

Re cut Quantity 200 GMTs

Style 2 Total Cut Quantity 72581 GMTs

Re cut Quantity 726


SEWING:

In this department various data required are number of defects which were sent for rework which we got from daily inline, end line, Q.C audit, and final audit reports which we got it from quality department, this we noted it down according to operation wise but not on type of defects as it would be easy to calculate rework time. Quantity checked by different quality people as we came to know inline, end line are checking 100% production, and quantity checked by Q.C we got it from report itself as it is mentioned how many they have checked. Quantity checked by auditor is according to AQL (for every 150 pieces they will check so according to AQL 8 garments in every 150 pieces).

Style 1 Style 2OPERATION NAME NO. OF

DEFECTSOPERATION NAME NO. OF

DEFECTSCollar top stitch 1179 sleeve big placket attach 2166

Bottom Hem 831 collar finish up to satin tape 1554

Front Placket finish 708 sleeve top stitch &gusset T/S 1450

Label ready and attach 692 label attach to back patch fabric 1394

Front Top and Bottom attach 564 collar peak ready 1244smocking 468 bottom hem 1210

Tie finishing 414 side seam attach with W/C label 1181Side O/L 410 B/H placket attach 1135

Side seam 400 sleeve big placket dia finish 885

Sleeve attach 350 cuff finish 810

Collar attach 328 collar edge stitch 650

Smocking tacking 314 collar attach 648collar Finishing 271 front pocket attach 592

Sleeve Hem 228 front bust dart stitch with side close 488Sleeve overlock 201 back pointed 412


Type Quantity checked

UOM

Style 1

Shell fabric 19976 GMTContrast fabric 55814 PanelsInterlining 20160 Panels

Style 2

Shell fabric 72581 GMTContrast fabric 73468 GMTInterlining 74758 GMT


Front top and bottom O/L 200 gusset& bottom side edge stitch 306

Gathering 138 sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 262

Collar peak Ready 119 shoulder attach 210

shoulder attach 103 cuff attach 188

Front pocket 88 patch fabric attach to back yoke 117Back yoke 69 back yoke attach 110

Waist Belt loop ready 68 side seam O/L 97Washcare label attach 42 sleeve small placket attach 66

Back top and bottom overlock 38 collar ready trim and mark 54

Shoulder O/L 32 pleat making 48Neck peak Ready 24 back yoke top stitch 44

Front placket and body setting 23 side seam top stitch 37Back top and bottom attach 13 front pocket hem with trim 35

satin tape attach to NB 31 collar band attach to top collar 28

piping attach to cuff 19 cuff top stitch 19 back panel box pleat 10 sleeve tack 10

Total 8315 Total 17510


Checking Point

Quantity checked

UOM

Style 1

Inline checking1 19892 GMTInline checking2 19892 GMTEnd line checking 19892 GMTQ.C 9145 GMTQuality Auditor 1060 GMT

Style 2

Inline checking1 42699 GMTInline checking2 42699 GMTEnd line checking 42699 GMTQ.C 19642 GMTQuality Auditor 2278 GMT

Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/month

Salary of Quality Checkers 3600/month

Style 1 Total Quantity 19892Total No. of defects 8315



FINISHING:

The data which we needed from this department are also same as sewing, here we collected no. of defects which are sent for rework at various stages from initial checking to final packing of the garments. This information we got it from hourly reports and quality audit reports online and final carton audit reports.

The quantity checked by different quality people like quality checkers at first checking, presentation checking, final checking, measurement checking are done for 100% production and for final inspection is done according to AQL of total quantity.

Q.C people at inline quality checking will be doing random audits for all first, presentation, measurement, and final checking and will be doing 10% of production at each stage which will come up to 40% of total and at carton packing stage they will be checking 100% of production.

Final auditing which is done by quality in charge is again depending upon AQL 2.5, they will selection of cartons is root over no. of cartons and from that they will take according to AQL.

Style 1 Style 2OPERATION NAME

NO. OF DEFECTS

OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS

Front Placket finish 229 sleeve placket attach 599Collar finish 147 bottom hem 594Bottom Hem 128 Darning 434panel damage 94 sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 431Smocking 52 side seam attach with W/C label 391Collar peak Ready 15 B/H placket attach 318Sleeve Attach 14 gusset& bottom side edge stitch 289side seam 12 label attach to back patch fabric 232Stains 11 sleeve big placket dia finish 220Collar final 9 cuff finish 215Sleeve Hem 9 cuff attach 210Side Attach 8 back pointed 194Belt tie ready 7 front pocket attach 191Button 6 collar band attach to top collar 149

sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 146



collar peak ready 116 collar finish up to satin tape 111 Stain 109 side seam top stitch 105 patch fabric attach to back yoke 101 shoulder attach 82 collar edge stitch 78 sleeve tack 70 pleat making 68 collar attach 68 collar ready trim and mark 56 cuff top stitch 54 front bust dart stitch with side

close48

back yoke attach 41 Button Attach 6 Total 741 Total 5726

WASHING:


Style Checking Point Quantity checked

UOM

Style 1

First checking 19676 GMT

Presentation 19676 GMT

Measurement 19676 GMT

Final checking 19676 GMTFinal inspection 125 GMT

line quality control 7871 GMTQ.C at carton packing 19676 GMT

Internal Audit 125 GMT

Style 2

First checking 84020 GMT

Presentation 84020 GMT

Measurement 84020 GMTFinal checking 84020 GMT

Final inspection 250 GMTline quality control 33608 GMT

Q.C at carton packing 84020 GMT

Internal Audit 250 GMT

Salary of Quality In charge 14000/month

Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/month

Salary of Quality Checkers 3600/month




In this department we need quantity which we got from production reports and quantity checked by checkers is 10% of each batch and quality controller will be checking 10 garments from each batch, and an approximate number of pieces per batch is 500 gmts. Rework quantity we got it from rework reports.

Salary of Quality Controllers 6000/monthSalary of Quality Checkers 3600/month

Style 1

Total Quantity 42699Rewash Quantity NilQTY Checked by Q.C 330QTY Checked by Checkers 1659

Style 2

Total Quantity 42699Rewash Quantity 1000QTY Checked by Q.C 860QTY Checked by Checkers 4270

QUALITY DEPARTMENT:

In this department we need only work force and their salaries which we got if from quality department itself.

Department Quality personal’s

No. of persons Salary

QualityQuality Managers 1 40000Quality Executives 2 13000Quality In charge 1 14000

INSPECTION:

The inspection which is done for garments are also to be considered as this also comes under cost of conformance. Here we need the cost of machineries and no. of machines, machine details are provided by department people but cost of machineries are taken from internet as its confidential information.

Name of the Machine Cost of Machine No.of machines Total CostFabric Inspection machine 200000 4 800000Needle Detector 157500 1 157500



TESTING:

The testing cost also comes under cost of conformance so from this department we got total number of tests performed for this style, average number of tests done per day, total staff and assistants and their salaries

Style 1 Style 2TYPE OF TEST NO.OF

SAMPLESTYPE OF TEST NO.OF

SAMPLESFABRIC TESTIING FABRIC TESTIING

Dimensional stability to washing

1 Dimensional stability to washing

1

Tearing Strength 1 Tearing Strength 1Tensile Strength 1 Tensile Strength 1Construction 1 Construction 1Fabric weight (GSM) 1 Fabric weight (GSM) 1

Total 5 Total 5GARMENT TESTING

NO. OF SAMPLES

GARMENT TESTING NO. OF SAMPLES

DIMENSINAL STABILITY TO WASHING %

24 DIMENSINAL STABILITY TO WASHING %

31

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

24 COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

24

COLOR FASTNESS TO CROCKING

24 COLOR FASTNESS TO CROCKING

24

APPEARANCE AFTER WASH

24 APPEARANCE AFTER WASH

24

SEAM SLIPPAGE /STRENTH(LBS)

24 SEAM SLIPPAGE /STRENTH(LBS)

24

BUTTON ATTACHMENT STRENTH

44 BUTTON ATTACHMENT STRENTH

72

PH 24 TENSILE STRENGTH 24



TEARING STRENGTH 24 PH 6

Total 188 Total 253

External Testing: Monthly average testing cost is equal to 12500.

SAMPLING:In this department also cost related to quality will be there as quality is main important

aspect in this department, from this department we collected type of sample and no. of samples made, quantity checked by quality people such as checkers which will be 100 % and by Q.C it will be 50% of total samples.

Salary of controller 10000 Salary of checkers 4300

Style 1

Total No. of Garments 10

Type of Sample Size set sample

Quantity checked by Q.C

5

Quantity checked by Checker

10

Style 2

Total No. of Garments 16

Type of Sample Size set sample

Quantity checked by Q.C

8

Quantity checked by Checker

16

STORES:In this department checking of trims will be done by checkers and Q.C, so we collected salaries

of them.

Salary of QC 6000/month

Salary of checkers 3600/month

3.2.3. TIME STUDY ANALYSIS FOR CHECKING:

Checking time for each garment at various stages of manufacturing was taken using time study as this is one of the major contributions towards the Cost of Quality.The following are the time for general checking in various departments.



1. FABRIC AUDIT:

Time study taken for fabric audit which are in roll form, which not only include checking time but also time taken to check shade variation in spectrophoto meter.

Style 1 Style 2Quality Person Checking time/gmt Quality Person Checking time/gmtQuality checker 1.6157 Quality checker 2.16383Q.C 0.321 Q.C 0.4299

2. SAMPLING: In sampling checking is done by controller and checker so we took time study for them and given below.

Style Quality person Checking Time in Min/GMT

Style 1 Quality controller 3.8Quality checker 3

Style 1 Quality controller 3.64Quality checker 2.83

3. STORES: As many of the trims which are received in stores are checked for quality also we have

taken time study in this department for various trims which are used in our styles only. Note: there is no checking for sewing threads and elastic threads.

Style 1 Style 2NAME OF THE TRIMS

QUANTITY UOM TOTAL TIME

NAME OF THE TRIMS

QUANTITY UOM TOTAL TIME

Main label 19976 PCS 3.5 Main label 43553 PCS 7.6

Wash care label 19976 PCS 4 Wash care label 43553 PCS 8.7

Elastic 10588 MTRS 3 Satin Tape 25261 MTRS 6.5

Elastic Thread 124848 MTRS 2.5 Button Pouch 85700 PCS 19.3

Buttons 1224 GRS 11.5 Buttons 6420 GRS 60.3

Button pouches 19976 PCS 4.5 Hangers 84020 PCS 152.02

Hand tag 19976 PCS 3.0 Hand tags 85700 PCS 12.9

Poly bag 416 PCS 2.5 Sizers 85700 PCS 96.1

Poly bag 11203 PCS 67.3

Carton Sticker 5601 PCS 1.0

Total time

34.5 Total time

431.7



4. CUTTING AND SPREADING:In this department as it is difficult to take checking time per garment so we took so took

time study for one whole lay in which checkers and Q.C are spending and divided by total garments in that lay so that we can arrive with checking time per garment.

Style Type Quality Person

Checking time/UOM

UOM Recut time/gmt

Style 1

Shell fabricQuality Checker 0.075 GMT

1.62

Quality Controller 0.0525 GMT

Contrast fabricQuality Checker 0.00357 GMTQuality Controller 0.002499 GMT

InterliningQuality Checker 0.0024 GMTQuality Controller 0.00168 GMT

Style 2

Shell fabricQuality Checker 0.072 GMT

1.7


Contrast fabricQuality Checker 0.01428 GMTQuality Controller 0.009996 GMT

InterliningQuality Checker 0.0096 GMT


5. SEWING:In this department checking is done at different stage and at each stage time taken is

different even it is done by checkers only, so we took time study and arrived with these results.

Style Checking Point Quality Person Checking time/GMT

Style 1

Inline checking1 Quality Checker 0.52Inline checking2 Quality Checker 0.633End line checking Quality Checker 0.75Q.C Q.C 0.9Quality Auditor Quality Auditor 1.5

Style 2

Inline checking1 Quality Checker 0.52Inline checking2 Quality Checker 0.633End line checking Quality Checker 0.75Q.C Q.C 0.9Quality Auditor Quality Auditor 1.5

6. FINISHING:



This department offers so many checking points which will be done by different people, we have taken many time study readings to get average timing and arrived

Style Checking Point Quality Person Checking time/GMT

Style 1

First checking Quality Checker 1.55Presentation Quality Checker 0.7Measurement Quality Checker 0.13Final checking Quality Checker 1.2Final inspection Quality Checker 0.75line quality control Q.C 4.5Q.C at carton packing Q.C 0.3Internal Audit Quality In charge 1.392

Style 2

First checking Quality Checker 1.46Presentation Quality Checker 0.63

Measurement Quality Checker 0.11

Final checking Quality Checker 1.15

Final inspection Quality Checker 0.72line quality control Q.C 4.27Q.C at carton packing Q.C 0.3Internal Audit Quality In charge 1.28

7. WASHING:

Style Quality Person Checking time/GMTStyle 1 Quality Checker 2.5

Q.C 3.2Style 2 Quality Checker 2.78

Q.C 3.57



3.2.4. COMPILATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA:

FABRIC AUDIT:In this department only checking cost has to be calculated as there is no cost

involved even if there is rejections of the fabric. As we already know time taken by checkers and controllers just we need how much it will costs us.

Style 1:

Quantity checked by checkers = 3069.50323

Quantity checked by controller = 3069.50323

Time taken by checker = 1.6157 mins/garment

Time taken by controller = 0.321 mins/garment

Total time taken by checkers = 1.6157*3069.503 = 4959.396 mins

Total time taken by controllers = 0.321*3069.503 = 985.3105 mins

Salary checkers = 3600 Rs/month

Salary controllers = 6000 Rs/month

Cost by checkers = (3600*4959.396)/14400 = 1239.8

Cost by controllers = (6000*985.32)/14400 = 410.5

Cost of checking = 410.5+1239.8 = 1650.4 Rs

Style 2:

Quantity checked by checkers = 41919.58499

Quantity checked by controller = 41919.58499

Time taken by checker = 2.16383 mins/garment

Time taken by controller = 0.4299 mins/garment

Total time taken by checkers = 2.16383*41919.58499= 90706.9 mins



Total time taken by controllers = 0.4299*41919.58499= 18021.2 mins

Salary checkers = 3600 Rs/month

Salary controllers = 6000 Rs/month

Cost by checkers = (3600*90706.9)/14400 = 22676.7

Cost by controllers = (6000*18021.2)/14400 = 7508.8

Cost of checking = 7508.8+22676.7= 30185.6 Rs

Total cost from department = 30185.6+1650.4 = 31836 Rs

STORES:

The method followed to Calculate Cost from Stores department is as follows,

The different trim quantities and time taken to check were known from the collected data and time study analysis. Hence we can calculate total time taken by checker’s and quality controller’s for these styles. As we know the salary of the two persons now we can get the cost incurred by checking of the trims shown below.

Considerations:

1. Only poly bags and Button pouches are checked by Q.C and rest of all the trims were checked by checkers.

2. Quantity checked according to AQL 1.5

Style 1:

The total time taken by checkers = 27.5/60

= 0.5 hrs

Time taken by Quality controller = 7/60

= 0.1hr

Salary of checkers =3600/month (240 hrs)

Cost for 0.5 hrs = (3600X0.5)/240 =6.9Rs

Similarly for Q.C cost for 0.1 hrs = (6000X0.1)/240 = 2.9 Rs

Total Cost incurred for Style1 = 6.9+2.9 = 9.8Rs



Style 2:

The total time taken by checkers = 345.1/60

= 5.8 hrs

Time taken by Quality controller = 86.6/60

= 1.44hrs

Salary of checkers =3600/month (240 hrs)

Cost for 5.8 hrs = (3600X5.8)/240 = 86.3Rs

Similarly for Q.C cost for 1.44 hrs = (6000X1.44)/240 = 36.1Rs

Total Cost incurred for Style 2 = 86.3+36.1= 122.4Rs

SAMPLING:

Generally there will be various types of samples prepared in industry before the actual production starts but for these two styles only size set samples were done in unit 7A rest of the samples were done in Faridabad unit, so we are considering the cost incurred for the size set samples alone.

Style 1: Total No. of samples = 10

Quantity checked by Q.C = 5

Quantity checked by checkers = 10

Checking time by Checkers = 3 min/gmt

Time taken to check = 10X3 = 30 min = 0.5 hrs

Salary of checkers = 4300Rs/month (240 hrs)

Checkers cost for 0.5 hrs = (4300*0.5)/240 = 9Rs

Checking time by Q.C = 3.8 min/gmt

Time taken to check by Q.C = 5*3.8 = 19 min = 0.3166 hrs

Q.C cost for 0.3166 hrs = (10000*0.3166)/240 = 13.2Rs

Total cost for style 1 = 9 + 13.2 = 22.2Rs



Style 2: Total No. of samples = 16

Quantity checked by Q.C = 8

Quantity checked by checkers = 16

Checking time by Checkers = 2.83 min/gmt

Time taken to check = 16*2.83 = 45.3 mins

Salary of checkers = 4300Rs/month (14400 mins)

Checkers cost for 45.3 min = (4300*45.3)/14400 = 13.5Rs

Checking time by Q.C = 3.64 min/gmt

Time taken to check by Q.C = 8*3.64 = 29.1mins

Q.C cost for 29.1 min = (10000*29.1)/14400 = 20.2Rs

Total cost for style 1 = 13.5 + 20.2 = 33.7 Rs

SPREADING AND CUTTING:

In this department there are 3 types of costs can be taken out as Cost of rework, Cost of checking & Cost due to loss of production. This cost due to loss of production is an indirect loss also called as opportunity cost. Here is how we calculated all this costs.

Considerations:

1. Timing doesn’t include idle time of checkers and Q.C people.( i.e. it is at average efficiency)

Style 1:

Cost of Rework:

To calculate this cost we need rework quantity and time taken to do each unit of rework by which we can arrive with total rework time, and as we know per minute factory cost we can arrive at cost of rework.

Total Rework quantity = 200 gmts

Recut time per gmt = 1.62 mins



Total time = 1.62*200 = 324 min

Factory cost/min = 2.2 Rs

Cost of rework = 2.2*324 = 712.8 Rs

Cost of checking:

In this department checking is done at various stages by various quality people depending on style and buyer so we need to see how much time and cost is spent on checking in this department and done as below.

Shell fabric:

Total Quantity = 19976

Checkers checking time /Gmt = 0.075

Total checkers checking time = 0.075*19976 = 1498.2 min

Salary of quality checker = 3600/month

Checkers cost for 1498.2 min = 374.6 Rs

Q.C checking time /Gmt = 0.0525

Total Q.C checking time = 0.0525*19976 = 1048.74

Salary of quality controller = 6000

Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins= (1048.2*6000)/14400 = 437Rs

Contrast fabric:

Total Quantity = 55814 Panels

Checkers checking time/panel = 0.00357

Total checkers checking time = 0.00357*55814 = 200 min


Checkers cost for 200 min = 50Rs

Q.C checking time /panel = 0.002499



Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (139.479186*6000)/14400 = 58.1Rs



Interlining:

Total Quantity = 20160 Panels

Checkers checking time/panel = 0.0024 min



Checkers cost for 48.384 min = 12.1Rs

Q.C checking time /panel = 0.00168




Total checkers cost for this style = 374.6+50+12.1 = 436.6 Rs

Total Q.C cost for this style = 437+58.1+14.1 = 509.2Rs

Total cost of checking = 436.6 + 509.2= 945.8Rs

Cost due to loss of production:

The time in which the rework is done can be used to production, this loss is calculated from the time taken to attend the rework and in the same time how much production can be achieved (if that time is available) and cost of doing that many pieces.

Rework time = 324 mins

Avg production/day/93 persons = 6200

Total available mins in day = 480*93 = 44640

Loss of production due to rework = (324*6200)/44640 = 45 gmts

Cost due to loss of production = 266.4 Rs

Total cost from cutting and spreading department for this style = 945.8+712.8+266.4 = 1925.05



Style 2:

Cost of rework:

Total Rework quantity = 726gmts

Recut time per gmt = 1.7mins

Total time = 1.7*726 = 1234.2 min

Factory cost/min = 2.2 Rs

Cost of rework = 2.2*1234.2 = 2715.14Rs

Cost of checking:

Shell fabric:


Checkers checking time /Gmt = 0.072



Checkers cost for 5225.83min = 1306.5 Rs

Q.C checking time /Gmt = 0.0504



Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (3658.08*6000)/14400 = 1524.2 Rs

Contrast fabric:


Checkers checking time/gmt = 0.01428






Q.C checking time /gmt = 0.009996

Total Q.C checking time = 0.009996*73468 = 734.39 min


Q.C cost for 1048.2 mins = (734.39*6000)/14400 = 306Rs

Interlining:


Checkers checking time/gmt = 0.0096 min




Q.C checking time /gmt = 0.00672

Total Q.C checking time = 0.00672*55814 = 502.37 mins



Total checkers cost for this style = 1306.5+262.3+179.4=1748.2Rs

Total Q.C cost for this style = 1524.2+306+209.3= 2782.6 Rs

Total cost of checking = 1748.2+2782.6= 3787.7Rs


The time in which the rework is done can be used to production, this loss is calculated from the time taken to attend the rework and in the same time how much production can be achieved (if that time is available) and cost of doing that many pieces.

Rework time = 726mins

Avg production/day/93 persons = 6200

Total available mins in day = 480*93 = 44640

Loss of production due to rework = (726*6200)/44640 = 171.41667gmts

Cost of spreading & cutting one garment = 6.52rs

Cost due to loss of production = 1117.6Rs

Total cost from cutting and spreading department for this style = 2715.14+3787.7+1117.6=

7620.55Rs.



SEWING DEPARTMENT:

To calculate cost of quality this sewing department plays a vital role because conversion from fabric to garment is done mainly here in this department and lot of mistakes are bound to happen which in turn result in lot of rework and time for it.

As in spreading and cutting in this department also we can take 3 costs, cost of rework, cost of checking,& cost due to loss of production.

In this department the defects may be in several operations and there is a need to know operation wise defects and percentage of total, so for the same we have made pareto chart for these styles which will help in future corrective actions.

Style 1:

OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTSPERCENTAGE OF TOTAL

Collar top stitch 1179 14.2

Bottom Hem 831 10.0

Front Placket finish 708 8.5

Label ready and attach 692 8.3

Front Top and Bottom attach 564 6.8

smocking 468 5.6

Tie finishing 414 5.0

Side O/L 410 4.9

Side seam 400 4.8

Sleeve attach 350 4.2

Collar attach 328 3.9

Smocking tacking 314 3.8

collar Finishing 271 3.3

Sleeve Hem 228 2.7

Sleeve overlock 201 2.4

Front top and bottom O/L 200 2.4

Gathering 138 1.7

Collar peak Ready 119 1.4

shoulder attach 103 1.2

Front pocket 88 1.1

Back yoke 69 0.8

Waist Belt loop ready 68 0.8

Washcare label attach 42 0.5

Back top and bottom overlock 38 0.5

Shoulder O/L 32 0.4

Neck peak Ready 24 0.3



Front placket and body setting 23 0.3

Back top and bottom attach 13 0.2

Total 8315 100



Style 2:

OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL

sleeve big placket attach 2166 12.4collar finish up to satin tape 1554 8.9sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 1450 8.3label attach to back patch fabric 1394 8.0collar peak ready 1244 7.1bottom hem 1210 6.9side seam attach with W/C label 1181 6.7B/H placket attach 1135 6.5sleeve big placket dia finish 885 5.1cuff finish 810 4.6collar edge stitch 650 3.7collar attach 648 3.7front pocket attach 592 3.4front bust dart stitch with side close 488 2.8back pointed 412 2.4gusset & bottom side edge stitch 306 1.7sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 262 1.5shoulder attach 210 1.2cuff attach 188 1.1patch fabric attach to back yoke 117 0.7back yoke attach 110 0.6side seam O/L 97 0.6sleeve small placket attach 66 0.4collar ready trim and mark 54 0.3pleat making 48 0.3back yoke top stitch 44 0.3side seam top stitch 37 0.2front pocket hem with trim 35 0.2satin tape attach to NB 31 0.2collar band attach to top collar 28 0.2piping attach to cuff 19 0.1cuff top stitch 19 0.1back panel box pleat 10 0.1sleeve tack 10 0.1

Total 17510 100.0



Considerations:

1. Checking time taken is not including idle time.2. All the Inline checking and end line checking are done by checkers and audits in line are done by

Q.C and final audit according to AQL is done by Quality auditors.

Style 1:

Cost of rework:

No. defects = 8315

Total time taken to do rework = 19953.99 mins

Factory cost/ min= 2.2 Rs

Total cost of rework = 19953.99*2.2 = 43898.778

Cost of checking:

The checking in this department was done at various stages so we calculated at various stages and added it at the end.

Inline checking 1:

Total quantity checked =19892

Checker checking time/gmt = 0.52

Total checking time = 10343.8

Salary of checkers = 3600/month(14400 min)

Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*10343.8)/14400 = 2586Rs

Inline checking 2:



Total checking time = 12591.6


Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*12591.6)/14400 = 3147.9 Rs



End line checking:



Total checking time = 0.75*19892 = 14919 min


Checkers cost at endine checking = (3600*14919)/14400 = 3729.8Rs

Random checking (Auditing):


Q.C checking time/gmt = 0.9

Total checking time = 0.9*9145 = 8230.5 min

Salary of Q.C = 6000/month(14400 min)

Q.C cost at random checking = (6000*8230.5)/14400 = 3429.4Rs

Final Auditing:


Auditor checking time/gmt = 1.5

Total checking time = 1.5*1060 = 1590 min

Salary of Auditor = 7500/month(14400 min)

Auditor cost at final checking = (7500*1590)/14400 = 828.1Rs

Total cost by checkers = 2586+3147.9+3729.8 = 9463.6

Total cost by Q.C = 3429.4

Total cost by Auditor = 828.1

Total cost of checking in sewing department = 9463.6+3429.4+828.1 = 13721.1



Style 2 :

Cost of rework:

No. defects = 17510

Total time taken to do rework = 36524.892 mins

Factory cost/ min= 2.2 Rs


Cost of checking:

The checking in this department was done at various stages so we calculated at various stages and added it at the end.

Inline checking 1:





Checkers cost at inline checking = (3600*20068.53)/14400 = 5017.1Rs

Inline checking 2:








End line checking:






Random checking (Auditing):


Q.C checking time/gmt = 0.84

Total checking time = 0.84*19642 = 16499.28min

Salary of Q.C = 6000/month(14400 min)

Q.C cost at random checking = (6000*16499.28)/14400 = 6874.7Rs

Final Auditing:


Auditor checking time/gmt = 1.5

Total checking time = 1.5*2278 =3417 min

Salary of Auditor = 7500/month(14400 min)

Auditor cost at final checking = (7500*3417)/14400 = 1779.7Rs

Total cost by checkers = 5017.1+6191.4+7579.1= 18787.6Rs

Total cost by Q.C = 6874.7

Total cost by Auditor = 1779.7

Total cost of checking in sewing department = 18787.6+6874.7+1779.7= 27441.9



FINISHING:

From this department also we can get all the 3 types of costs, and as this department is mainly involved with quality so lot of checking happens which will contribute in total cost. So before going to calculate cost we need to know different defects and there percentage of total as shown below.

Style 1:

OPERATION NAMENO. OF

DEFECTSPERCENTAGE OF TOTAL

Front Placket finish 229 30.9

Collar finish 147 19.8

Bottom Hem 128 17.3

panel damage 94 12.7

Smocking 52 7.0

Collar peak Ready 15 2.0

Sleeve Attach 14 1.9

side seam 12 1.6

Stains 11 1.5

Collar final 9 1.2

Sleeve Hem 9 1.2

Side Attach 8 1.1Belt tie ready 7 0.9

Button 6 0.8

Total 741 100



Style 2:


OPERATION NAME NO. OF DEFECTS

PERCENTAGE

sleeve placket attach 599 10.5bottom hem 594 10.4Darning 434 7.6sleeve top stitch & gusset T/S 431 7.5side seam attach with W/C label 391 6.8B/H placket attach 318 5.6gusset & bottom side edge stitch 289 5.0label attach to back patch fabric 232 4.1sleeve big placket dia finish 220 3.8cuff finish 215 3.8cuff attach 210 3.7back pointed 194 3.4front pocket attach 191 3.3collar band attach to top collar 149 2.6sleeve o/L &bottom gusset O/L 146 2.5collar peak ready 116 2.0collar finish up to satin tape 111 1.9Stain 109 1.9side seam top stitch 105 1.8patch fabric attach to back yoke 101 1.8shoulder attach 82 1.4collar edge stitch 78 1.4sleeve tack 70 1.2pleat making 68 1.2collar attach 68 1.2collar ready trim and mark 56 1.0cuff top stitch 54 0.9front bust dart stitch with side close 48 0.8back yoke attach 41 0.7Button Attach 6 0.1

Total 5726 100


Considerations:

1. All first checking, Presentation checking, Measurement checking, Final checking, Final inspection are done by checkers and line quality audit, quality at carton packing checking done by Q.C and internal audit is done by quality in charge.

2. Factory cost is taken as 2.2 Rs/min.

3. Total people in finishing floor for production = 170

4. Cost incurred to company per gmt in finishing department for style 1 = 12.46 Rs

5. Cost incurred to company per gmt in finishing department for style 2 = 12.35Rs

Style 1:

Cost of rework:

Total no. of defects = 741

Total rework time = 1013.03 mins

Factory cost/min = 2.2


COST OF CHECKING: First checking:

Total quantity checked = 19676

Checking time/gmt = 1.55 min

Total time = 1.55*19676 = 30497.8 min

Salary of checkers = 3600/month

Checkers cost for 30497.8 min = (30497.8*3600)/14400 = 7624.5Rs

Presentation checking:



Total time = 0.7*19676 = 13773.2 min


Checkers cost for 13773.2min = (13773.2*3600)/14400 =3443.3Rs



Measurement checking:



Total time = 0.13*19676 = 2557.88 min


Checkers cost for 2557.88 min = (2557.88*3600)/14400 = 639.5 Rs

Final checking:



Total time = 1.2*19676 = 23611.2min


Checkers cost for 23611.2min = (23611.2*3600)/14400 = 5902.8Rs

Final inspection:



Total time =0.75*125 = 93.75 min



Line quality audit:



Total time =4.5*7871 = 35419.5 min

Salary of Q.C = 6000/month

Checkers cost for 35419.5min = (35419.5*6000)/14400 = 14758.1Rs



Quality at carton packing:



Total time =0.3*19676 = 5902.8 min



Internal audit:



Total time =1.392*125 = 174 min

Salary of Incharge= 14000/month

Incharge cost for 174 min = (174*14000)/14400 = 169.2Rs

Cost of checking by checkers = 7624.5+3443.3+639.5+5902.8+23.4 = 17633.5

Cost of checking by Q.C = 29762.2+4960.0 = 17217.6Rs

Cost of checking by Quality in charge = 169.2Rs

Total cost of checking from finishing department = 35020.2


Rework time = 1013.03 min

Avg production/day/170 persons =6349 gmts

Total available minutes/day = 480*170 = 81600 min

Loss of production due to rework = (6349*1013.03)/81600 = 78.8202 gmts

Total cost due to loss of production in finishing department = 78.8202*12.46 = 982.1 Rs

Total cost of quality from this department for this style = 982.1+2228.7+69437.6 = 72648.4 Rs



Style 2:

Cost of rework:

Total no. of defects = 5726

Total rework time = 6437.3965 mins

Factory cost/min = 2.2


Cost of checking:

First checking:



Total time = 1.46*84020 = 122669.2 min



Presentation checking:



Total time = 0.63*84020 = 52932.6 min



Measurement checking:



Total time = 0.11*84020 = 9242.2 min





Final checking:



Total time = 1.15*84020 =96623 min


Checkers cost for 96623 min = (96623*3600)/14400 = 24155.75Rs

Final inspection:



Total time =0.72*250 = 180 min


Checkers cost for 180 min = (180*3600)/14400 = 45Rs

Line quality audit:



Total time =4.27*33608 = 143506.16 min


Q.C cost for 143506.16 min = (143506.16*6000)/14400 = 59794.23333Rs

Quality at carton packing:



Total time =0.3*84020 = 25206 min


Q.C cost for 25206 min = (25206*6000)/14400 = 10502.5Rs



Internal audit:



Total time =1.28*250 = 320 min

Salary of incharge = 14000/month

Incharge cost for 320 min = (320*14000)/14400 = 311.11111Rs

Cost of checking by checkers = 30667.3+13233.15+2310.55+24155.75+45 =70411.75Rs

Cost of checking by Q.C = 120585.0372+21180.04167 = 70296.73333Rs

Cost of checking by Quality in charge = 311.11111Rs

Total cost of checking from finishing department = 141019.5944


Rework time = 6437.3965 min

Avg production/day/170 persons =6349 gmts

Total available minutes/day = 480*170 = 81600 min

Loss of production due to rework = (6349*6437.3965)/81600 = 500.87047 gmts

Total cost due to loss of production in finishing department = 500.88*12.35 = 6185.7503Rs

Total cost of quality from this department for this style = 141019.5944+6185.76+14162.28

= 161367.6Rs



WASHING:

This department is also included as there will be quality checking, rewash, and defects due to washing. In this department also we can get all the 3 type of costs which will be depicted as below.

Style 1:

Cost due to rewash:

As there is no rewash for this style there will be no cost.

Cost for checking:Total Quantity checked by checkers = 1659

Checking time/gmt = 2.5

Total checking time = 2.5*1659 = 4147.5 mins

Salary of checker = 3600/month

Checkers cost for 1056 mins = (4147.5*3600)/14400 = 1036.875Rs

Total Quantity checked by Q.C = 330


Total checking time = 3.2*330 = 1056mins


Q.C cost for 1056 mins = (1056*6000)/14400 = 440Rs

Cost of checking from washing department for style 1 = 1036.875+440 = 1476.875 Rs


As there is no rewash there will be no loss of production.

Total cost from washing department for style 1 = 1476.875

Style 2:

Cost of rewash:

Total rewash quantity = 1000 gmts

Cost incurred to company to wash one garment = 1.48 Rs

Total cost to rewash 1000 gmts = 1.48*1000 = 1480 Rs

Cost of checking:

Total Quantity checked by checkers = 4270





Salary of checker = 3600/month

Checkers cost for 11870.6 mins = (11870.6*3600)/14400 = 2967.65Rs

Total Quantity checked by Q.C= 860





Cost of checking from washing department for style 1 = 2967.65+1279.25 = 4246.9Rs


Total Rewash quantity = 1000 gmts

Time taken to rewash = 180 mins

Avg. production/3shifts/150 people = 95000

Minutes available = 24*60*150 = 216000

Loss of production for 180 mins = (180*95000)/216000 = 79

Cost due to loss of production = 79*1.48 = 117

Total cost from washing department for this style = 4246.9+1480+117 = 5844.07

TESTING:

As testing of fabric and garments are done in house in this unit the cost related to that also need to be taken as it will also will come under conformance of quality, so from this department cost taken are depreciation cost of testing machinery, cost of fabric and garments wasted to test, cost of testing.



Depreciation cost:

Consideration:

1. Life of machine taken as 10 years.2. Depreciation percentage = 10%3. Average no. of styles per month = 204. Average tests done per month = 114

Cost of all machinery = 237200

Depreciation per month = 237200/120 = 1976.666667

Depreciation for one style = 1976.67/20 = 98.84 Rs/month

Depreciation for one style per day = 98.84/30 = 3.8 Rs/day

Cost due to loss of fabric and garment:

Total garments consumed = 68 gmts

Total fabric consumed = 5mtrs

= 5*0.9346 = 4.673 gmts

Total garments consumed = 68+4.673 = 72.673

Cost incurred to company for one garment = 75.3 Rs

Cost due to loss of garments = 75.3*72.673 = 5472.2769

Cost for testing:

Total salary of staff and lab assistants =69552/month

Salary per day = 69552/30 = 2318.4 Rs/day

Total costs per day = 2318.4+3.8 = 2322.2 Rs/day

Average no. of tests per day = 114

Average cost per test = 2322.2/114 = 20.37

No. of tests done for our style = 193

Total cost for 193 tests = 193*20.37 = 3931.45 Rs

Total cost from testing department = 3931.45+5472.2769 = 9403.72



Style 2:

Cost due to depreciation:

Cost of all machinery = 237200

Depreciation per month = 237200/120 = 1976.666667

Depreciation for one style = 1976.67/20 = 98.84 Rs/month

Depreciation for one style per day = 98.84/30 = 3.8 Rs/day

Cost due to loss of fabric and garment:

Total garments consumed = 79 gmts

Total fabric consumed = 5mtrs

= 5*0.69783 = 3.48915 gmts

Total garments consumed = 79+3.48915= 82.589 gmts

Cost incurred to company for one garment = 80.43 Rs

Cost due to loss of garments = 80.43*82.589 = 6634.61

Cost for testing:

Total salary of staff and lab assistants =69552/month

Salary per day = 69552/30 = 2318.4 Rs/day

Total costs per day = 2318.4+3.8 = 2322.2 Rs/day

Average no. of tests per day = 114

Average cost per test = 2322.2/114 = 20.37

No. of tests done for our style = 258

Total cost for 258 tests = 258*20.37 = 5255.51 Rs

Total cost from testing department =5255.51+6634.61= 11890.1Rs

Inspection:

In the process of manufacturing the goods are subjected to inspection at two different stages namely at fabric audit and other is needle detector, so for this reason we considered depreciation of this two machines.



Style 1: Cost of all machineries = 957500

Life of machinery = 10 yrs

No. of styles per month = 20

Total depreciation cost = (957500/120)*0.05 = 398.96 Rs

Style 2: Cost of all machineries = 957500

Life of machinery = 10 yrs

No. of styles per month = 20

Total depreciation cost = (957500/120)*0.05 = 398.96 Rs

3.3. CONSOLIDATED COQ DEPARTMENT WISE :

The main conversion from fabric to garment is done in spreading and cutting, sewing, finishing, washing, and so cost incurred per garment in this department only taken and considered total cost of manufacturing. So we added all the departments COQ except above and divided by total production so that we will get share of all departments cost per each garment, we added this in each department according to their production so that we got total cost of quality.

Cost of quality from stores = 9.79+122.37 = 132.16 Rs

Cost of quality from Sampling = 22.16+33.7 = 55.86 Rs

Cost of quality from fabric audit = 1650.4+30185.55 = 31835.95

Cost of quality from Testing = 9403.73+30185.55 = 39589.27

Cost of quality from inspection equipment’s = 148.958+148.958 = 297.92

Cost of quality from Quality Department = 9867.26+33060.0447 = 42927.3 Rs

Scrap cost for both styles = 21912.3+22842.12 = 44754.42

Total cost from all the above departments = 159592.88

Total production from style 1 = 19916+19892+19676+16583 = 76067

Total production from style 2 = 72581+42699+84020+42699 = 241999

Total production for both styles = 76067+241999 = 318066

Cost of quality share from above departments = 159592.88/318066 = 0.501760264Rs



Spreading and cutting:

Total quantity = 19916+72581 = 92497

Total cost for two styles = (19916*5.92) + (72581*6.52) = 591130.84

COQ for this department = 1925.049328+7620.552247 = 9545.599

Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*92557 = 46441.425


COQ per garment = 55987.024/92497 = 0.605285Rs

COQ % in this department = (9545.599/591130.84)*100 = 1.615 %

(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only cutting not share from the other departments)

Sewing:

Total quantity = 42699+19892 = 62591

Total cost for two styles = (19892*55.44) + (42699*60.08) = 3668168.4 Rs

COQ for this department for both styles = 78027.361+146787.746 = 224815.107 Rs

Share of cost from other departments = 0.501760264*62591 = 31405.67668 Rs


COQ per garment = 256220.7837/62591 = 4.093572298

COQ % in this department = (224815.107/3668168.4)*100 = 6.13%

(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only sewing not share from the other departments)

Finishing:

Total quantity = 19676+84020 = 103696

Total cost for two styles = (19676*12.46) + (84020*12.35) = 1282810 Rs




COQ per garment = 251629.1323/103696 = 2.426604



COQ % in this department = (199598.6/1282810)*100 = 15.56%

(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only finishing not share from the other departments)

Washing:

Total quantity = 16583+42699 = 59282

Total cost for two styles = (16583*1.48) + (42699*1.48) = 87737.36 Rs




COQ per garment = 36949.125/59282 = 0.623277302

COQ % in this department = (7203.775/87737.36)*100 = 8.22%

(Note: For above COQ% we took COQ for only washing not share from the other departments)

Total COQ % for two styles:

Total manufacturing cost for two styles = 1490421+4139426 = 5629847

Total COQ for both styles = 162674.9+419767.8 = 582442.7

COQ% for both styles = (582442.7/5629847)*100 = 10.346%



CHAPTER 4

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

4.1. FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

COQ PER MONTH:

To calculate cost of quality per month from these two styles considerations are

1. As our two styles are having different order quantity and are different products as ladies dress and ladies casual shirt we have covered some variations which will be there in one month.

2. As our styles has got only internal testing and no embroidery and some other styles will be sent for the same, so we considered average external testing cost and average embroidery waste per month also to get closer figure of COQ per month.

Spreading and cutting:

Average monthly production in spreading and cutting = 161200

Average cost of spreading and cutting per garment = 6.22 Rs

Total cost incurred for this department per month = 161200*6.22 = 1002664 Rs

COQ for 92497 garments = 9545.599 Rs

COQ for 161200 garments = (161200*9545.599)/92497 = 16635.68Rs

COQ per garment = (16635.68/161200) = 0.103199

COQ% per month = (16624.89665/1002664)*100 = 1.66%

Sewing:

Average monthly production in sewing = 156000

Average cost of sewing per garment = 57.76 Rs

Total cost incurred for this department per month = 156000*57.76 = 9010560 Rs




COQ for 156000 garments = (156000*224815.107)/ 62591 = 560322.6773 Rs

COQ per garment = (560322.6773/156000) = 3.591812034 Rs

COQ% per month = (560322.6773/9010560)*100 = 6.22%

Finishing:

Average monthly production in finishing = 165074

Average cost of finishing per garment = 12.405 Rs

Total cost incurred for this department per month = 165074*12.405 = 2047742.97 Rs




COQ% per month = (317741.6612/2047742.97)*100 = 15.51668%

Washing:

Average monthly production in washing = 2470000

Average cost of washing per garment = 1.48 Rs

Total cost incurred for this department per month = 2470000*1.48= 3655600 Rs




COQ% per month = (300147.2/3655600)*100 = 8.210614%

Cost from other departments:

Average production in cutting, sewing, finishing, washing = 165074+156000+161200

= 482274gmts/month

Total production for both styles in all four departments = 318066gmts

Cost for 318066 gmts at all four departments = 141279.6 Rs

Cost for 482274 gmts = (482274*141279.6)/318066 = 214218.0485 Rs/month



TOTAL COQ:

COQ of Spreading and cutting = 16624.9

COQ of sewing = 560322.68

COQ of finishing = 317741.6612

COQ of washing = 300147.2

COQ of all other departments = 214218.0485

Total Cost of quality per month = 16624.9+560322.68+317741.6612+300147.2+214218.0485

= 1409054.49 Rs

Total cost of company per month = 12500000 Rs

COQ% of month = (1409054.49/12500000)*100 = 11.27243592

ACCORDING TO THE ABOVE CALCULATION IT SHOWS THAT THE COQ% PER MONTH OF THE FACTORY STANDS IN THE THIRD STAGE OF QUALITY MATURITY GRID WHICH IS ENLIGHTMENT STAGE.



4.2. Recommendations:

The stitching and various production operators should also be explained the importance

of ‘right first time’ quality and how they will be able to improve their earning by

eliminating defects

Problem solving techniques must be followed to understand the root causes of various

defects found in the garments.

Suggestions must be invited from the employees on how to protect the garments from

defects during various processes of manufacture.

Quality awareness program must be organized and the employee should be motivated to

produce a defect free product.

Zero defect day can be followed once or twice a month when the workers are insisted on

the quality of the product rather than production target.



4.3.CONCLUSION

The overall business strategy is to increase profit in a particular product, the company’s focus should be on reducing quality costs by reducing errors, eliminating non-value-added activities and waste.

Quality generally is meeting customer requirements, error free, at the lowest possible costs. A byproduct of quality improvement is the improvement in productivity. By eliminating errors, non-value-added and waste, resource capacity becomes available.

Increased quality also reduces the production cycle time. It also decreases the use of machinery and equipment due to less rework. This result in a reduction is asset investment. Less material are now required due to less scrap, rework and waste.

Improving the quality and productivity increases the profitability of the organization. Margins are increased due to these lower costs. Increased sales results due to higher conformance to quality, better on time delivery and opportunity to reduce selling price.


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