republic on the rise: nepal embarks on the road to democracy
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You must try to contribute to the process
of transitional justice, including the constitu-
tion making said the young and cheerful
human rights activist I was talking to. Thats
the thing she added for a good measure. Yep.
I nodded for transition is the thing. I could see
it everywhere. It was there in the streets and it
illuminated the discussions in the restaurants.
It was there in the sparkle that lighted her face
when she talked of transition. I could see it in
the twinkle that swam into her eyes, a twinkle
that betrayed her robust belief in the good
days ahead for her country.
It was my third day in Lalitpur, cousin city of
Kathmandu, the capital of the Himalayan
republic and I had already lost track of just how
many times I had encountered the words.
Human rights activists talked of it in terms of
transitional justice while asserting the need of
something like the South African process of
truth and reconciliation. Development profes-
sionals talked of it while underlining the need
of international action for ensuring food secu-
rity of the impoverished masses. Political
activists talked of it, albeit with a little despair
emanating out of one more failure of drafting
the constitution in the stipulated time, while
emphasizing the enormity of the task they
were faced with.
It was scattered across pages of newspa-
pers, both the Nepalese and the English ones.
On my second day in Lalitpur, reputed English
daily named Kantipur was reporting of yet
another extension of the interim parliament
couple with yet another change in the govern-
ment, nay interim government to be precise. It
was now going to be a national front govern-
ment, albeit under the leadership of the incum-
bent prime minister only.
Its not merely the parliament thats abuzz
with the talks of political transition. Neither is
the idea of politics limited to a liberal demo-
cratic framework that brings cheer to those
who have specialised the art of delivering
democracy to the regimes that are
unfavourable to them. Streets of Kathmandu
have, instead, turned into an open school of
Marxist ideology. I wonder what all these inter-
national experts/development
professionals/aid workers would make of
those red banners calling for an end to the fac-
tionalism, elopism and opportunism within
communist ranks and files.
The last thing many of them would want, I
am sure, is a dialogue within different commu-
nist parties that opens the possibility of a
broad Communist front if not an outright merg-
er. These banners, wall paintings and posters
have painted the twin towns of Kathmandu
and Patan RED. Even more interestingly, they
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have been put not merely by many communist
parties that dominate the Nepali political
scene as of now but also by trade unions like
All Nepal trade Union of Restaurent workers(translation mine). A satisfying smile forces its
way on my face. The process of trade unionisa-
tion is so complete in this country which was
an absolute monarchy just a few years back!
Not that the forces of positive, however
divided, are the only forces trying to take Nepal
their way. There were many a wall writings of a
Hindu Party of Nepal as well, with
Revolutionary added to its name in brackets
for effects, calling for ensuring the safety, sur-
vival and dignity of Hindus of Nepal! Hinduism
is the majority religion in Nepal is beside the
point. Their safety, survival and dignity are notthreatened by whosoever seems even more
irrelevant to whatever political group this is.
Interestingly the Nepali Congress (Koirala fac-
tion) is conspicuously absent from the streets
despite its huge support that is second only to
two of the biggest communist parties. Ah,
they are too elite and too assured of their sup-
port to engage in such menial labour quips
another Nepali activist friend of mine.
Transition. The word defines the blossom-
ing republic that was born out of mass protests
called Janandolan that swept the monarchy
away in its tide. Transition. The word guaran-
tees that this time the republic has come there
to stay unlike all those false starts that had
come the nations way. Of course it would not
be a smooth ride; it just cannot be for throwing
off the yoke of that dreaded feudal monarchy is
nothing less than a herculean task.
Of course it would be fraught with dangers,
both from within and without for the influence
of the erstwhile monarchy still holds some,
even if greatly diminished, ground. Losing
respect and power, as it is, does not necessar-
ily translate into the loss of conspiratorial
prowess, does it? Couple this with the vested
interests that have entrenched themselves
deep into the power corridors and the recipe
for an impending threat is complete. Their
scheming designs have drawn blood in the
past and they cannot be believed to sit idle this
time.
Not this time though. For the republic has
drawn its first blood as well. The first thing it
did was turning the then Hindu Rashtra into a
secular republic and thus correcting a histori-
cal wrong committed on Nepali people by the
erstwhile monarchy that claimed to be of a
divine origin. Unlike its western counterparts,
this one was not to be content with a claim of
being the march of the God on the earth but
wanted to be God itself, so it did precisely that.
The kings claimed to be the incarnation of
incarnation of Lord Vishnu, one of the Holy
Trinity that sits at the apex of Hinduism. They
claimed, for I am sure that even they them-
selves wont be stupid enough to believe that
ridiculous assertion of their own.
The republic has cut them, and all their
claims, to size. There are no more Gods roam-
ing through the streets of Kathmandu or
Lalitpur. People have snatched all their streets,
all their roads back. They have taken all those
Darbars, or the squares surrounding the
palaces, back too. In fact, it was at the Patan
darbar where I witnesses one of the most fas-
cinating glimpse of the transition that is seep-
ing into the ordinary lives of these ordinary
people. Darbar, at the center of Lalitpur, was
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abuzz with the people, right from the foren
tourists to the locals stealing little moments of
leisure sitting idle on the steps of countless
temples that make the Darbar.
Many of them are young couple lost into
one another. In fact, its not merely the Patan
Darbar but all of Kathmandu valley that young
couples have taken by a storm. Quite apparent-
ly, they are not merely from the upper echelons
of the society. Nepal is in transition. India, the
big brother that sits at its borders witnesses
act of honour killings just at the outskirts of its
national capital. Breaking the stream of
thought a boy asks me Will you please click a
photograph of us? The couple looks at each
other and then, a little coyly, holds hands. And
then I saw the queue, not of human beings
though. It was a queue of pots, mostly plastic
ones, lined up in front of the two water taps
located in the pond like structure with steps
that stood at one of the corners of the Darbar.
Whats that, I asked SachinGhimre, a
Nepali friend of mine who was my junior at the
Jawaharlal Nehru University in Delhi while I
was enrolled there for my PhD. Whats what,
he asked back. That queue of the water pots
in bright colours that only plastic can come
with! Oh that, Sachinlooked at the queue a
little forlornly, They are local people getting
water as they dont have tapped water supply
for clean drinking water at their homes. Were
they allowed to do that beforehand? No, thathappened only after the janandolan!
Ordinary, poor people collecting their water
at a place that once was a palace! Thats what
this transition is all about. People reclaiming
their lives and their resources, thats what this
transition is all about. This is the evidence for
the fact that the republic is on the move even if
a little short on resources. But then, once the
will is firmly in place, all that the lack of
resources can do is slow down the process a
little, it cannot turn the tide back.
Narendra spoke with a definite conviction.
A conviction that was shaped by the will tomove forward.A Conviction that was born out
of the will to demolish all those structures that
destined a section of Nepali population to a life
of slavery and servitude.A conviction that
dreams of turning the former Dalits as equal
citizens of the new country, the one that is no
more a Hindu nation.The one that has become
a republic.
We were sitting in the office of the Jagran
Media Center, a non-governmental organiza-
tion that works on the issues of Dalit rights.
We have a network of seven hundred journal-
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ists, he said and then added with a pause,
and four hundred and fifty of them were
trained by us. There was an unmistakable hint
of the fact that he took pride in the success ofthe organization he is leading. All of them are
Dalits, added Deependra. His voice was brim-
ming with pride too.
They have just finished with a television
serial named Dalan, or repression, which ran
with grand success on Nepali TV. They are suc-
cessfully running many radio channels that are
both community based and community
owned. They are playing an important role in
the constitution making process as well with a
pledge of bringing issues regarding Dalit rights
to the national forefront. Undoubtedly, the
republic is in transition. It is on the rise as well.The window of their office opens into a beauti-
ful skyline dotted with the Himalayas on the
horizons.
A memory crosses my mind. The memories
of those beautiful days in JNU, marked with late
night processions against a thousand injus-
tices committed on the people. The memories
of all those slogans including the one I liked the
most, the people united shall always be victo-
rious. Some of the victories are coming our
way. They so certainly are.
I take a cab back to the guest house. The
winding and narrow roads are absolutely simi-
lar to any of the roads that one finds in the
quaint hill stations of India. What differentiates
Kathmandu, though, is the Newari architecture
that produces breathtaking beautiful houses
of brick and wood. The windows don intricate
patterns carved out of the wooden
panes.Newaris, by the way, are people indige-
nous to the Kathmandu valley. They are some-
thing like a host tribe, one that forms majority
of the capital city but is largely absent or is a
tiny minority in the rest of the country.
Newaris love their Stupas, complete with
four lions guarding their localities. Something
catches my attention yet again. One of these
Stupas is taken over by a woman vegetable
seller. No, not all of that.another part of it is
claimed by one who has a small cycle repairing
shop, if one can call it a shop that is.
A smile takes my face over. This is what
transition is. A transition where the traditional
serves the modern. It is one where people have
reined in that block called functional fixedness
and can put things, successfully, to use. The
one they have taken over is far better kept than
the abandoned, decaying ones. That is another
evidence for the success of community owner-
ship of public spaces, isnt it?
Looking at the Kathmandu valley from
Swyambhoo, a Buddhist temple on a hillock
that overlooks all of Kathmandu valley does
not give even a hint of all that is churning with-
in the Nepalese society. Yet, it does give
panoramic views of the beautiful city that lays
beneath. A city that has a past imperfect, but
striving for a future much better than anything
that there was. UTS