republic on the rise: nepal embarks on the road to democracy

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  • 7/31/2019 Republic on the Rise: Nepal embarks on the road to democracy

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    You must try to contribute to the process

    of transitional justice, including the constitu-

    tion making said the young and cheerful

    human rights activist I was talking to. Thats

    the thing she added for a good measure. Yep.

    I nodded for transition is the thing. I could see

    it everywhere. It was there in the streets and it

    illuminated the discussions in the restaurants.

    It was there in the sparkle that lighted her face

    when she talked of transition. I could see it in

    the twinkle that swam into her eyes, a twinkle

    that betrayed her robust belief in the good

    days ahead for her country.

    It was my third day in Lalitpur, cousin city of

    Kathmandu, the capital of the Himalayan

    republic and I had already lost track of just how

    many times I had encountered the words.

    Human rights activists talked of it in terms of

    transitional justice while asserting the need of

    something like the South African process of

    truth and reconciliation. Development profes-

    sionals talked of it while underlining the need

    of international action for ensuring food secu-

    rity of the impoverished masses. Political

    activists talked of it, albeit with a little despair

    emanating out of one more failure of drafting

    the constitution in the stipulated time, while

    emphasizing the enormity of the task they

    were faced with.

    It was scattered across pages of newspa-

    pers, both the Nepalese and the English ones.

    On my second day in Lalitpur, reputed English

    daily named Kantipur was reporting of yet

    another extension of the interim parliament

    couple with yet another change in the govern-

    ment, nay interim government to be precise. It

    was now going to be a national front govern-

    ment, albeit under the leadership of the incum-

    bent prime minister only.

    Its not merely the parliament thats abuzz

    with the talks of political transition. Neither is

    the idea of politics limited to a liberal demo-

    cratic framework that brings cheer to those

    who have specialised the art of delivering

    democracy to the regimes that are

    unfavourable to them. Streets of Kathmandu

    have, instead, turned into an open school of

    Marxist ideology. I wonder what all these inter-

    national experts/development

    professionals/aid workers would make of

    those red banners calling for an end to the fac-

    tionalism, elopism and opportunism within

    communist ranks and files.

    The last thing many of them would want, I

    am sure, is a dialogue within different commu-

    nist parties that opens the possibility of a

    broad Communist front if not an outright merg-

    er. These banners, wall paintings and posters

    have painted the twin towns of Kathmandu

    and Patan RED. Even more interestingly, they

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    Republicon the RiseNepal embarks on the

    road to democracy

    BY

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    have been put not merely by many communist

    parties that dominate the Nepali political

    scene as of now but also by trade unions like

    All Nepal trade Union of Restaurent workers(translation mine). A satisfying smile forces its

    way on my face. The process of trade unionisa-

    tion is so complete in this country which was

    an absolute monarchy just a few years back!

    Not that the forces of positive, however

    divided, are the only forces trying to take Nepal

    their way. There were many a wall writings of a

    Hindu Party of Nepal as well, with

    Revolutionary added to its name in brackets

    for effects, calling for ensuring the safety, sur-

    vival and dignity of Hindus of Nepal! Hinduism

    is the majority religion in Nepal is beside the

    point. Their safety, survival and dignity are notthreatened by whosoever seems even more

    irrelevant to whatever political group this is.

    Interestingly the Nepali Congress (Koirala fac-

    tion) is conspicuously absent from the streets

    despite its huge support that is second only to

    two of the biggest communist parties. Ah,

    they are too elite and too assured of their sup-

    port to engage in such menial labour quips

    another Nepali activist friend of mine.

    Transition. The word defines the blossom-

    ing republic that was born out of mass protests

    called Janandolan that swept the monarchy

    away in its tide. Transition. The word guaran-

    tees that this time the republic has come there

    to stay unlike all those false starts that had

    come the nations way. Of course it would not

    be a smooth ride; it just cannot be for throwing

    off the yoke of that dreaded feudal monarchy is

    nothing less than a herculean task.

    Of course it would be fraught with dangers,

    both from within and without for the influence

    of the erstwhile monarchy still holds some,

    even if greatly diminished, ground. Losing

    respect and power, as it is, does not necessar-

    ily translate into the loss of conspiratorial

    prowess, does it? Couple this with the vested

    interests that have entrenched themselves

    deep into the power corridors and the recipe

    for an impending threat is complete. Their

    scheming designs have drawn blood in the

    past and they cannot be believed to sit idle this

    time.

    Not this time though. For the republic has

    drawn its first blood as well. The first thing it

    did was turning the then Hindu Rashtra into a

    secular republic and thus correcting a histori-

    cal wrong committed on Nepali people by the

    erstwhile monarchy that claimed to be of a

    divine origin. Unlike its western counterparts,

    this one was not to be content with a claim of

    being the march of the God on the earth but

    wanted to be God itself, so it did precisely that.

    The kings claimed to be the incarnation of

    incarnation of Lord Vishnu, one of the Holy

    Trinity that sits at the apex of Hinduism. They

    claimed, for I am sure that even they them-

    selves wont be stupid enough to believe that

    ridiculous assertion of their own.

    The republic has cut them, and all their

    claims, to size. There are no more Gods roam-

    ing through the streets of Kathmandu or

    Lalitpur. People have snatched all their streets,

    all their roads back. They have taken all those

    Darbars, or the squares surrounding the

    palaces, back too. In fact, it was at the Patan

    darbar where I witnesses one of the most fas-

    cinating glimpse of the transition that is seep-

    ing into the ordinary lives of these ordinary

    people. Darbar, at the center of Lalitpur, was

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    abuzz with the people, right from the foren

    tourists to the locals stealing little moments of

    leisure sitting idle on the steps of countless

    temples that make the Darbar.

    Many of them are young couple lost into

    one another. In fact, its not merely the Patan

    Darbar but all of Kathmandu valley that young

    couples have taken by a storm. Quite apparent-

    ly, they are not merely from the upper echelons

    of the society. Nepal is in transition. India, the

    big brother that sits at its borders witnesses

    act of honour killings just at the outskirts of its

    national capital. Breaking the stream of

    thought a boy asks me Will you please click a

    photograph of us? The couple looks at each

    other and then, a little coyly, holds hands. And

    then I saw the queue, not of human beings

    though. It was a queue of pots, mostly plastic

    ones, lined up in front of the two water taps

    located in the pond like structure with steps

    that stood at one of the corners of the Darbar.

    Whats that, I asked SachinGhimre, a

    Nepali friend of mine who was my junior at the

    Jawaharlal Nehru University in Delhi while I

    was enrolled there for my PhD. Whats what,

    he asked back. That queue of the water pots

    in bright colours that only plastic can come

    with! Oh that, Sachinlooked at the queue a

    little forlornly, They are local people getting

    water as they dont have tapped water supply

    for clean drinking water at their homes. Were

    they allowed to do that beforehand? No, thathappened only after the janandolan!

    Ordinary, poor people collecting their water

    at a place that once was a palace! Thats what

    this transition is all about. People reclaiming

    their lives and their resources, thats what this

    transition is all about. This is the evidence for

    the fact that the republic is on the move even if

    a little short on resources. But then, once the

    will is firmly in place, all that the lack of

    resources can do is slow down the process a

    little, it cannot turn the tide back.

    Narendra spoke with a definite conviction.

    A conviction that was shaped by the will tomove forward.A Conviction that was born out

    of the will to demolish all those structures that

    destined a section of Nepali population to a life

    of slavery and servitude.A conviction that

    dreams of turning the former Dalits as equal

    citizens of the new country, the one that is no

    more a Hindu nation.The one that has become

    a republic.

    We were sitting in the office of the Jagran

    Media Center, a non-governmental organiza-

    tion that works on the issues of Dalit rights.

    We have a network of seven hundred journal-

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    ists, he said and then added with a pause,

    and four hundred and fifty of them were

    trained by us. There was an unmistakable hint

    of the fact that he took pride in the success ofthe organization he is leading. All of them are

    Dalits, added Deependra. His voice was brim-

    ming with pride too.

    They have just finished with a television

    serial named Dalan, or repression, which ran

    with grand success on Nepali TV. They are suc-

    cessfully running many radio channels that are

    both community based and community

    owned. They are playing an important role in

    the constitution making process as well with a

    pledge of bringing issues regarding Dalit rights

    to the national forefront. Undoubtedly, the

    republic is in transition. It is on the rise as well.The window of their office opens into a beauti-

    ful skyline dotted with the Himalayas on the

    horizons.

    A memory crosses my mind. The memories

    of those beautiful days in JNU, marked with late

    night processions against a thousand injus-

    tices committed on the people. The memories

    of all those slogans including the one I liked the

    most, the people united shall always be victo-

    rious. Some of the victories are coming our

    way. They so certainly are.

    I take a cab back to the guest house. The

    winding and narrow roads are absolutely simi-

    lar to any of the roads that one finds in the

    quaint hill stations of India. What differentiates

    Kathmandu, though, is the Newari architecture

    that produces breathtaking beautiful houses

    of brick and wood. The windows don intricate

    patterns carved out of the wooden

    panes.Newaris, by the way, are people indige-

    nous to the Kathmandu valley. They are some-

    thing like a host tribe, one that forms majority

    of the capital city but is largely absent or is a

    tiny minority in the rest of the country.

    Newaris love their Stupas, complete with

    four lions guarding their localities. Something

    catches my attention yet again. One of these

    Stupas is taken over by a woman vegetable

    seller. No, not all of that.another part of it is

    claimed by one who has a small cycle repairing

    shop, if one can call it a shop that is.

    A smile takes my face over. This is what

    transition is. A transition where the traditional

    serves the modern. It is one where people have

    reined in that block called functional fixedness

    and can put things, successfully, to use. The

    one they have taken over is far better kept than

    the abandoned, decaying ones. That is another

    evidence for the success of community owner-

    ship of public spaces, isnt it?

    Looking at the Kathmandu valley from

    Swyambhoo, a Buddhist temple on a hillock

    that overlooks all of Kathmandu valley does

    not give even a hint of all that is churning with-

    in the Nepalese society. Yet, it does give

    panoramic views of the beautiful city that lays

    beneath. A city that has a past imperfect, but

    striving for a future much better than anything

    that there was. UTS