responsible leather round table summit 2020 · 2020. 12. 16. · responsible leather round table...
TRANSCRIPT
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Thank you to our 2020 Conference Sponsors:
#TextileExchange20
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Soil Health Biodiversity Water
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
OUR MISSIONTextile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate adoption of preferred materials in the textile value
chain. We focus on carbon reduction, soil health, water and biodiversity as part of our holistic approach to
drive positive impact for the entire industry.
OUR VISIONWe envision a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment, while enhancing lives. By
2030 we aspire to guide the textile industry to reduce GHG emissions (CO2 equivalents) by 45% from a 2020
baseline.
OUR STRATEGYOur strategy is to accelerate climate action in the textile industry by providing trusted data and reporting, market-
based solutions, and a community that can do what no single company or organization can do alone.
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Anti-Trust Statement
Textile Exchange convenes the textile community and values
diversity of views, expertise, opinions, backgrounds, and
experiences. It is expected that members of this community will
collaborate by sharing ideas, information, and resources of
publicly available information only and avoid discussions on
price, strategic plans or other private and sensitive information.
#TextileExchange20
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Responsible Leather Round Table Summit
December 15, 2020
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Meet the Team
Stefanie PokorskiInnovations & Standards
Senior Coordinator
Anna HeatonChair of Animal Welfare
Committee
Anne GillespieDirector of Impact
Acceleration
Larysa ValachkoImpact Coordinator
Josefina EiseleChair of Deforestation/
Conversion-free committeeDeborah TaylorCo-Chair of Leather
Production Committee
Nicole LambertChair of Leather
Production Committee
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
• Welcome
• Industry updates
• Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA)
• Impact Incentives update
• RLRT and the Climate+ Strategy
• Textile Exchange Climate+ Strategy
• Leather and Beef: Impacts and Opportunities
• Break
• How to Move Forward
• Brainstorming/discussion
• Close
Agenda
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Welcome
Using the Zoom chat box:
Please say ‘Hello!” in the different languages that you speak
Then tell us:
• Which country you are in, and
• How long it has been since you last saw a real, live cow?
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates – Covid-19 Impacts
• Various degrees of impact in different countries but overall global leather production has
dropped by between 20% - 30% on average as a result of reduced operations and demand.
• The worst affected have been the low income – high producing countries like India where
facilities were not equipped to deal with a whole industry shutdown
• Increased online sales - fewer losses than anticipated
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates – COTANCE SER 2020
• Social Environmental Report 2020:
✓ an update on the first report (2013)
✓ key social and environmental indicators for the leather
industry in Europe.
✓ available in different languages
• European Social Environmental Report – Euroleather
• Short video summaries:
• COTANCE European Leather Association - YouTube
Confederation of National Associations of Tanners and Dressers
of the European Community (COTANCE)
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates – PNAS Report
• Insightful report on beef exports from Brazil (December 3, 2020):
• valuable information and metrics for sourcing and procurement of
raw materials
• The full report available:
The origin, supply chain, and deforestation risk of Brazil’s beef
exports | PNAS
Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United
States of America (PNAS)
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates – UK News: England & Wales Ban Live Exports
• The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs
(Defra) proposed to ban the export of live animals for
slaughter and fattening from England and Wales.
• The plans (which do not currently include Scotland) enter
into a joint eight-week consultation
• The full report available:
• England and Wales to ban live animal exports in European
first | Live exports | The Guardian
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Factsheet Example• New Website – ‘Get the Facts, Understand
Leather’ https://www.leathernaturally.org/
• Metcha Leather Inspirational Platform
https://metcha.com/
Industry Updates - Leather Naturally – 2020 Highlights
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates
• A new campaign: “Real Leather. Stay Different”
• More information:
https://chooserealleather.com/real-leather/sustainable-
leather-international-campaign/
Sustainable Leather Foundation
• Fabrizio Nuti: New President of the Italian
Leather Industry Association.
• More information:
• ASSEMBLEA UNIC – CONCERIE ITALIANE
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates – UNECE Transparency & Traceability Project
• To Enhance Transparency & Traceability for
Sustainable Value Chains in the Garment & Footwear
Sectors
• Policy Recommendations are currently open for
public review
• Work on planning for Leather Blockchain Pilot has
started:
https://www.unece.org/tradewelcome/traceability-for-
sustainable-garment-and-footwear.html
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Industry Updates – Sustainable Leather Foundation
• Industry Led – Consumer Focused approach
• Objectives:
✓ To create a framework that supports and unifies the existing work within the
leather industry.
✓ To support good practice and demonstrate conformance across the leather
manufacturing value chain.
• Focus on 3 pillars of sustainability: Environmental, Social, Governance
• The Audit Standard: pilots during the first quarter of 2021
• QR codes for consumer facing information and a transparent dashboard based
app for value chain participants.
https://www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com/
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) Updates
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) Review
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA Review
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA Key Value Propositions
Deforestation/Conversion Free
leather production areas
Addressing animal welfare
through a tiered approach
Focus on process-based
performance over time
Inclusive development
Addressing both environmental and
social aspects of leather production
Opportunity for brands to make claims
about their support for improved practicesLinking brands to farms
Building traceability into the system
Global tool with regional
applicability
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Key Updates from LIA
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Animal Welfare Standards Benchmark – Key Updates
Slatted flooring:
• Only permitted at baseline and option1 for veal calves - not beef cattle
• Prohibited for all types of cattle at options 2 and 3
• When permitted, must not be bare concrete - can be covered with rubber
matting or be made of alterative materials like plastic
Space in housing:
• Clarification than the space required per 100kg liveweight in Option 2 is the
minimum required for benchmarking, not the specific requirement
Branding:
• Baseline prohibition on face branding remains
• Option 2 prohibition on any branding (unless required by regulation) remains
• New requirement at Option 1 for certifications to cover method and placement
of brands
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Animal Welfare Standards Benchmark – Key Updates
The benchmarking process:
• Clarification that a certification must meet the applicable benchmark
requirements for the level it is being benchmarked against
• For example, some requirements are now specific to veal calves or
specific to beef cattle. A certification that only covers beef cattle
does not need to include veal calf standards that match the
benchmark
• Reminder that benchmarking will be done in conjunction with the
certification bodies/standards owners.
• If their standards do not exactly match the LIA benchmark, they will
have to opportunity to demonstrate how their requirements and
audit process meet the same outcomes as LIA.
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
ALIGNED with SSCI
Leather Production Standards Benchmark – Key Updates
BASED on SSCI
Less prescriptive
• Leather Production Environmental Standards Benchmark: no major changes
SSCI, Version 1.0, PART III - AI: Processing and Manufacturing scope (social)
• Leather Production Social Standards Benchmark:
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA Claims Guide
• Aligned with Textile Exchange Standards
Claims Policy
• Scripted allowed language
• Only AW Options 2 and 3 may
make claims about ‘animal welfare’
• AW Baseline and Option 1 claims will only
be about animal management/husbandry
LIA Claims & Corporate Commitment – Key Updates
LIA Corporate Commitment
• Now 2 modules:
1. Impact Incentives purchases
2. Supply chain traceability + certification
to LIA-approved standards
• Traceability module to be added when
systems are available
• All modules require annual progress reporting
in the Corporate Fiber and Materials
Benchmark (CFMB)
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA Release & Voting
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA Version 0.1 Timeline
VOTE
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA Version 0.1 will be fully launched and ready for use on January 5th, 2021
About “Version 0.1 and the Pilot Year”
• Implementation of all LIA components will begin.
• Impact Incentives can be traded and claimed during the pilot year.
• We will continue to review feedback and results throughout the year.
• Revisions may be made at the end of the year; if major changes are needed, we will engage
with stakeholders again.
LIA Version 0.1 & “2021 Pilot Year”
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA 0.1 Core Documents – Voting Now Open!
Farm Level Documents Leather Production Documents
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
1. Review the final drafts of the core LIA documents.
2. Make sure you have signed the LIA IWG charter and are a VOTING member.
3. Go the JotForm link: https://form.jotform.com/203244633627251
4. Cast your vote!
A few reminders:
• Only voting members of the LIA IWG may vote. Go to: https://www.jotform.com/TextileExchange/lia-iwg-charter to sign if
you have not already.
• Your votes are for the core LIA benchmark/criteria documents only. We will be continuing to develop and revise
supplemental documents include the LIA Claims Guide, Verification Manual, etc.
How to Vote
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
• You may cast 1 vote for either of the following options:
1. All core LIA documents
2. Individual documents from the core group – relevant
to your area of focus or knowledge (may choose more
than 1)
• A vote of 'agree' means that you are in approval of the final
draft
• A vote of 'disagree' means that you are not in approval of
the final draft
Voting Closes December 22, 2020
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Impact Incentives Updates
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
VERIFICATION
BODY
INCENTIVES TRADING
PLATFORM
Farm
IMPACT INCENTIVES
IMPACT
PARTNERSHIP
Brands/Retailers
INCENTIVES
IMPACT REPORTSDATA
INCENTIVES
SHARED DATA
DAT
A
• Export data to NGO’s, Governm ent , etc
• Interface w ith thirds part ies
INCENTIVES & DATA
CLAIMS
INCENTIVES
INCENTIVES
Meets
requirem ents?
Data
Yes
FACILITATOR
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
FLEXIBILITY CREDIBILITY COLLABORATIONVALUE
SCALE SPEED TRANSPARENCY DATA
www.impactincentives.org
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Impact Incentives
• Impact Incentives Launch – October 26, 2020
• Launch webinar is available at www.impactincentives.org
• Impact Incentives video released (3 minutes)
• ISEAL Landscape Grant
• 2021 Piloting with all members
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
RLRT and the Climate+ Strategy
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Claire Bergkamp
COO, Textile Exchange
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
A driving force for urgent climate action
in textile fiber and materials production.
Enabling and guiding the textile industry to
reduce GHG emissions (CO2 equivalents)
45% by 2030 in the pre-spinning phase of
textile fiber and materials production.
Grounded in Partnership+
Soil Health
Biodiversity
Water
+
Amplifying positive impacts in soil
health, water, + biodiversity.
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Grow the industry:
Launching & supporting the adoption of PFM through Market-
driven solutions best practices, traceability, and SC commitments
FROM: Raising Awareness
2002-2020
TO: Accelerating Adoption
2020-2030
Lead the industry:
Prioritize strategy execution by measuring outcomes to
significantly accelerate adoption of PFM and be a leading voice
on industry priorities to close GHG emissions
Standards:
Verify and support the adoption of a portfolio of PFM across 7
standards, over 18,000 certified sites
Fiber Report:
Collect and deliver reports on preferred fiber and material
production and consumption
Funding model:
Shift from grants and industry funds to a membership and
services model in based on membership and certification fees.
Convening / Engagement:
Significant growth across all key activities: Round Tables,
Conference (up to 900+ in 2019), Membership (17– 425+
members)
Comprehensive PFM Guidance:
Lead on problem-solving across the fiber portfolio
Data Rich Communications:
Measuring, benchmarking, and driving PFM evolution with easily
accessible and useful data presentation and sharing
Business models:
Improve and enhance existing funding streams; move toward
highly digital & monetize IP; risk reduction / retention of existing
funding streams
Convening / Partnership:
Prioritize based on solutions to Climate+ outcomes. Focus
disproportionately on partnerships that evidence benefits. Choose
where to follow or support others to lead.
Strategy Pivot
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
Baseline: 2019 Emissions
Material Tonnes %
Polyester 57,700,000 52.5%
Cotton 26,000,000 23.7%
Nylon 5,580,000 5.1%
MMCF 7,084,100 6.4%
Wool 1,070,000 1.0%
Down 270,000 0.2%
Other 4,870,216 4.4%
Leather 7,300,000 6.6%
Total 109,874,316 100%
611 million tonnes CO2eFiber Volume 2019
*
* Based on Higg MSI Values – under review
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
2030: Portfolio Approach
To
nn
es
CO
2e
BAU: 845.9M tonnes
45%: 336M tonnes
50% preferred cotton
50% rPoly
50% Preferred MMCF**
30% rNylon
20% rWool
20% plant-based materials
Slow growth (1%)
Aggressive
Substitution
Innovation Gap
533.5M tonnes
**estimates based on Lenzing Viscose Ecovero from Europe
Innovations will include expanded
Regenerative and Carbon
Sequestration Practices and
Circular Solutions
BAU: Business as Usual
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
The Round Table Evolution
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
New Round Table Structure
Animal Fibersand Materials
Animal FibersRoundtable
Wool
Mohair
Alpaca
Cashmere MSCP MSA
Down
Leather Roundtable
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
• Wool
• Mohair
• Alpaca
• Cashmere
• Down
• Leather
• Wool
• Mohair
• Alpaca
• Cashmere
• Leather
• Wool
• Mohair
• Alpaca
• Cashmere
• Wool
• Mohair
• Alpaca
• Animal-based
fibers
• Plant-based
fibers
• Animal-based
fibers
• Plant-based
fibers
Animal WelfareClimate beneficial
grazing
Marginalized fiberproducing small holders (social)
Responsible Animal Fiber Standards
Biodiversity Soil Carbon Etc.
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
The purpose of the Responsible Leather Round Table is
to support Textile Exchange’s sustainability vision with a
focus on the leather industry.
• To promote among our stakeholders understanding
and appropriation of the Textile Exchange Climate+
strategy as a direction for the industry in the next
decade
• To fulfil the shift from discussions to actions and deliver
measurable results annually.
New Terms of Reference: Purpose
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
The objectives of our work are:
• Set meaningful goals that contribute to the overall industry carbon reduction by 45% by 2030, and
address biodiversity, soil health, water and the rights of people and animals.
• Determine how to measure and track progress towards these goals
• Identify and prioritize actions each year of the next decade
• Mobilize the RLRT stakeholders and others to take actions to meet these goals
• To establish partnerships with major players in the industry for collective efforts towards the goals
The Responsible Leather Round Table addresses the full beef/leather value chain, with an emphasis on the
impacts at the farm level.
RLRT Terms of Reference: Objective & Scope
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Let's talk about moving forward
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Leather & Beef – Impacts & Opportunities
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Global Roundtable for Sustainable Beef (GRSB) Goals
The GHG SMART Goal:
Reduce the carbon footprint of each unit of beef by 30% by
2030 on a pathway to climate neutrality.
Be able to report measured progress by 2025
The reason why:
The GRSB commits to delivering climate action across the beef
supply chain to support the urgent global ambition to limit global
temperature rises to 1.5 degrees by
How we’re going to get there:
• Demonstrate and scale climate neutral beef production.
• Safeguard and build upon the carbon stores in soil and
landscapes managed by producers.
Animal
WelfareClimate
Land
Use
Change
TBDTBD
New strategic plan to communicate our ambition
and create an energizing platform to drive further
progress.
To achieve this, we have committed to setting goals
for key sustainability indicators.
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Grazing Practices and Carbon Sequestration
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
LIA, Impact Incentives, and Climate+
LIA is a tool that enables brands to address their full supply chains. It creates a
credible framework to recognize the actions at the different stages and make
meaningful claims.
Impact Incentives provide the opportunity for fast and direct action to stop
deforestation or conversion, and the give market support for best practices
The Impact Alliance amplifies the impacts across multiple commodities and
creates opportunities for coordinated action (e.g. in target landscapes)
All Impact Incentives support farms that are verified to meet the Accountability Framework definitions of Zero Gross Deforestation or Conversion.
Because the Impact Alliance represents multiple sectors, we have the opportunity to amplify impacts in high-risk landscapes. For example, incentives can be sold for soy, beef and cattle in the Amazon Biome.
DEFORESTATION & CONVERSION-FREE (DCF)
How to make impact happen?
Making impact happen.
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
How to move forward to Climate+
1. Set our goals
2. Define our measurement system
3. Establish the baseline*
4. Set the strategy – “how”
5. Create an execution plan
6. Execute
7. Review
8. Revise
9. Re-Act
Soil Health
Biodiversity
Water
+
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Brainstorming Together
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Brainstorming Topics
Goals Measurements Strategy
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Goals
Given the disproportionate impact of leather, let’s think about how we set our goal in relation to
the Climate+ goal (45% reduced CO2 emissions from textile fiber and material production by
2030).
1) Which aspects of cattle production do we prioritize?
❑ grazing systems
❑ deforestation and land conversion (DCF)
❑ feed inputs
❑ enteric emissions (methane production)
❑ other
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Goals
Given the disproportionate impact of leather, let’s think about how we set our goal in relation to
the Climate+ goal (45% reduced CO2 emissions from textile fiber and material production by
2030).
2) Who should we work with?
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Measurements
3. Which industry and global goals most deserve our attention?
❖ SDGs
❖ UNFCCC
❖ Fashion Pact
❖ New York Declaration on Forests
❖ Consumer Goods Forum Zero Net Deforestation Commitment
❖Other?
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Measurements
4. Given the different industry and global goals that exist, in addition
to carbon, what do we need to measure and report on for leather?
❖ Biodiversity
❖ Animal Welfare
❖ Ecosystem preservation
❖Water management
❖ Other?
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Measurements
5. Are there any specific KPIs that we should look at?
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
Measurements
❖Delta
Framework
❖Ecological
Outcome
Verification
(EOV) – by
Savory Institute
❖Carbon
Disclosure
Project
❖COOL Farm
Tool
❖Farm Footprint
Calculator
❖Science Based
Targets
❖Gold Standard
6. Which of these data systems should we look at?
Who do we align with to set the baselines?
Data Collection Systems
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20
7. What strategies should we focus on to meet the Climate+ goals
❖ Promote the use of Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA)
❖ Drive Impact Incentives use
❖ Expand the scopes addressed by Impact Incentives
❖ Set leather industry targets
❖ Cross-commodity landscape pilots
❖ Collaboration with GRSB or other industry groups
❖ Other?
Strategy
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
© Copyright Notice
This presentation is protected by U.S. and International copyright laws.
Textile Exchange welcomes you to use slides from this collection for your presentations on the condition that:
• The slides are not altered from the way it is presented in its original format, this includes changing colors and style.
• The Textile Exchange logo should not be removed.
• Adding logos and/or content is not permitted without written permission from Textile Exchange.• Any presentation using this content or any form of this content should acknowledge Textile Exchange as the author.
Thank you
Responsible Leather Round Table
Summit 2020
ResponsibleLeather.org / [email protected]