results report of knowledge exchange in france and switzerland · gaec groupement agricole en...

Support to Sustainable Value Chains through the Development of Geographical Indications in the Dairy

Sector Project – Georgia

Results Report of Knowledge exchange in France and Switzerland

Massifs des Aravis – Massif des Bauges – Valais – Pays de Gruyère et du Pays d’Enhaut

18 – 23 June 2018

Table of content

Acronymes ........................................................................................................................................... 5

Defintions ............................................................................................................................................ 5

Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 6

Background .......................................................................................................................................... 6

Objectives of the knowledge exchange ............................................................................................... 6

Participating parties ............................................................................................................................ 6

Regions and their PDOs ........................................................................................................................... 8

Massif des Aravis ................................................................................................................................. 8

Reblochon de Savoie PDO ............................................................................................................... 8

Chevrotin PDO ................................................................................................................................. 9

Massif des Bauges ............................................................................................................................... 9

Tome des Bauges ........................................................................................................................... 10

Valais ................................................................................................................................................. 10

Raclette du Valais .......................................................................................................................... 11

Pays d’Enhaut .................................................................................................................................... 11

L’Etivaz PDO ................................................................................................................................... 12

Pays de Gruyère................................................................................................................................. 13

The Gruyère PDO ........................................................................................................................... 13

Programme rationale ........................................................................................................................ 13

Results of the knowledge exchange ...................................................................................................... 17

Producer organisations managing GIs ............................................................................................... 17

Economic entities participating to the VC structuring ...................................................................... 18

Control and certifications of GIs ........................................................................................................ 19

Food safety standards and particular flexibility and derogation regulations ................................... 21

Market surveillance and fight against fraud ..................................................................................... 22

Marketing and promotion of GIs ....................................................................................................... 23

Relation between GIs and rural tourism ........................................................................................... 25

High mountain summer pasture management ................................................................................. 25

Other quality labels with special focus on nature protected area labels and sustainable farming .. 26

Other topics addressed during meetings .......................................................................................... 27

Examination of application for PDO and PGI registration ............................................................. 27

Sensory analysis ............................................................................................................................. 27

Annexes ................................................................................................................................................. 29

Annex 1: Programme of the knowledge exchange ........................................................................... 29

Annex 2: Contacts .............................................................................................................................. 36

Acronymes

CH Switzerland

CHF Swiss Francs

FAO The food and Agriculture Organisation of the UN

FR France

GAEC Groupement Agricole en Commun

GI Geographical Indication

INAO Institut National des Appellations d’Origine

KE Knowledge exchange

NFA National Food Agency

OiC Office Intercantonal de Certification

PDO Protected Designation of Origin

PGI Protected Geographical Indication

VC Value chain

Defintions

Alpage

Introduction

Background

The knowledge exchange (KE) has been organised in the frame of the FAO/EBRD project “Upgrade of

Meat Quality Standards in Montenegro and Exchange of Lessons Learned in the Western Balkans”

that aims to enhance the sustainability of the Georgian dairy value chain through the development

and enhanced protection of Geographical Indications (GIs). The project focuses on strengthening the

institutional framework for GIs and developing sustainable GI value chains in the dairy sector. More

specifically, it aims at improving GI certification systems in the country and supporting sustainable

dairy GIs through a better characterization of quality specificities, improved capacities of producers’

organizations, better marketing and quality upgrading.

The knowledge exchange has been timely organised as the project enters in a new phase that

requires all partners starting complying with GI requirements and implementing different activities

pertaining to the enforcement of the GI system.

Objectives of the knowledge exchange

The overall objective of the study tour was to expose producers, state agencies and certification

bodies to good Geographical Indications (GIs) practices. The main topics addressed during the study

tours were:

– Producer organisations managing GIs

– Control and certifications of GIs

– Food safety standards and in particular flexibility and derogation regulations

– Market surveillance and fight against fraud

– Marketing and promotion of GIs

– Relation between GIs and rural tourism

– High mountain summer pasture management

– Other quality labels with special focus on nature protected area labels

Other topics addressed during meetings:

– Examination of application for PDO and PGI registration

– Sensory analysis

– Sustainable farming

Participating parties

The delegation was formed by the most proactive producers in the qualification process of the two

pilot GI products (Sulguni and Tushetian Guda), representatives of the state institutions with key

competences in regards to GI system implementation and one private certification staff (see Table 1).

The delegation was accompanying by FAO expert and INAO expert in cheese processing, and two

experts of REDD who organised the knowledge exchange in France and Switzerland.

Table 1: Participants to the study tour

Gender Name, Surname Title/Organization Contact Information

Producers

M Giorgi Abulidze Association “Tushuri Guda” [email protected]

M Koba Gaprindauli Association “Tushuri Guda” [email protected]

M Giorgi Karsamauli Association “Tushuri Guda”

M Kakhaber Koniashvili Head of the association – “Sakrdze”

[email protected]

M Konstantine Abashidze Industrial director of “Sante” [email protected]

M George Liparteliani Founder of “Natural + “ [email protected]

M Gocha Gagashvili Founder of “ Tsivi Cheese” [email protected]

Government& certification body, etc.

F Ketevan Kiladze Sakpatenti [email protected]

F Mariam Gordadze NFA [email protected]

M Zurab Nadareishvili CaucasCert [email protected]

F Tamari Noniashvili Elkana [email protected]

F Ketevan Dushuashvili Interpreter [email protected]

Project staff and expert

M Pascal Bernardoni REDD, Expert [email protected]

M Emmanuel Mignason REDD, Expert [email protected]

F Stéphanie Duchet INAO, Expert [email protected]

F Emilie Vandecandelaere FAO Project officer [email protected]

Project implementer, State Institution, Producer and Certification Body on the way to the l’Aulp de Marlens

mailto:[email protected]










Regions and their PDOs

Massif des Aravis

The Aravis is a mountain range located in the pre-Alps between Haute-Savoie (west side) and Savoy

(east side). Its highest peak is Pointe Percée (2,750 m). In 2006, the Aravis chain is classified as a

"Natura 2000 site" which guarantees its environment and its biodiversity. On February 11, 2011,

President Nicolas Sarkozy, traveling to La Clusaz, during a round table on the mountain economy

announces the classification of the chain of Aravis in nature reserve.

Farming and tourism are the two complementary and most relevant economic sectors of the area.

The summer and winter resorts, as well as urban centres in the vicinity of the Aravis offer obvious

outlet market for locally produced food products.

Paturage de l’Aulp de Marlens, © P. Bernardoni

Reblochon de Savoie PDO

The Aravis range is the cradle of the Reblochon

of Savoy. On December 11th of the year 1932, the

Syndicate of the real reblochons fermier (on-

farm production) was founded. In 1958, the

Syndicat Interprofessionel du Reblochon

registers the Reblochon de Savoie as a PDO. The

"Coopérative des producers de reblochon

fermier" is created in Thônes, in 1971.

Nowadays, the Syndicat Interprofessionel gathers

550 milk producers, 130 on-farm producers, 20

dairies and 11 ripeners.

Reblochon de Savoie PDO

Chevrotin PDO

The Chevrotin is a goat cheese produced in the

hilly and mountainous areas around the Aravis

range.

In 1988, the producers of Chevrotin create the

Association of the on-farm producers of Chevrotin

decide to collectively promote their cheese. This

group of 25 on-farm producers and 5 ripeners

decide to register Chevrotin PDO. In 2002 the

Chevrotin is registered as a PDO. The Syndicate

interprofessionel du Chevrotin gathers 22

producers and 4 dairies

Massif des Bauges

Valley of the massif des Bauges © P.Bernardoni

The Bauges massif, or more commonly the Bauges, is a mountainous limestone massif of northern

French pre-Alps, between Savoie and Haute-Savoie and rising to more than 2,200 meters above sea

level. The heart of the massif forms the Bauges country, shaped by traditional dairy farming. The

natural heritage is remarkable and is one of the major assets of the Massif des Bauges Regional

Natural Park created in 1995.

The Bauges' main activity has long been dairy farming. Many cheese local specialties are produced

directly by the breeders at the “alpage” (high pasture) during the summer months or possibly on the

farm the rest of the year.

The French term alpage designates a mountain pasture where herds of cattle, sheep or goats are brought mainly in summer to enjoy a fresh and abundant grass. Alpage are usually equipped of buildings to host the farmers, his/her family and possible workers and rooms for dairy products fabrication.

Chevrotin PDO in the dairy of the GAEC Vent des cîmes,

© Giorgi Karsamauli

Milk is also collected by fruit cooperatives for the production of "Gruyère des Bauges" 12 and

"Emmental de Savoie" 13. Some cheese factories have also developed cheeses of their own14 such

as Montpela, Valbleu, etc.

Since the 1990s, the Bauges massif, surrounded by dynamic cities (Annecy, Aix-les-Bains, Chambery,

Albertville), benefits from investments, attracts a new population and repopulates slightly.

The Tome des Bauges with the Gruyère des Bauges

(called Margériaz since the Gruyère has been protected

as PGI in France and PDO in Switzerland) is the main

product of this region in which livestock and dairy

productions has been the main farming activities over

centuries.

Tome des Bauges

La tome des Bauges is a cheese produced from cow milk

in the whole massif des Bauges, that has been consumed

by local farmers for ages before to become a commercial

product in the beginning of the XXth century. The tome

des Bauges is registered as a PDO in 2002 at national

level and 2007 by the EU. The syndicat interprofessionnel

de la Tome des Bauges counts 53 milk producers, 12 on-

farm cheese producers and 5 dairies.

Valais

The canton of Valais is one of the 26 cantons of Switzerland, situated in the southwestern part of the

country, around the valley of the Rhône

The Rhone valley, © P. Bernardoni

Ripening Tome des Bauges with its miscellium,

© S. Duchet

The canton is simultaneously one of the driest regions of Switzerland in its central Rhône valley and

among the wettest, having large amounts of snow and rain up on the highest peaks found in

Switzerland.

Agriculture is important, particularly cattle breeding in the mountains and dairy farming in the plains.

The wine industry of the canton is the largest in Switzerland. There are also a large number of

orchards in the area in the lowland.

Cattle breading and cheese production relies on the usage of high pasture station usually located

between 1300 and 2800 m.a.s.l. during the summer months.

Another sector that is of high importance for the whole canton is mountain tourism. Agriculture, in

particularly vineyards and cattle breading shape the landscape of the main Rhone valley and the

adjacent valleys up to the highest peaks, conferring to the region the typical “Swiss Mountain”

picturesque image.

Raclette du Valais

The existence of cheese in Valais is

attested from the 4th century BC. During

the Roman period, alpine cheese enjoyed

an excellent reputation. Between the 14th

and 19th centuries, cheese was commonly

used as a bargaining chip, as a salary or as

an export product. The practice of melting

cheese was known in Valais in 1574

already. The name "raclette", if used

previously in the local dialect, was written

in 1874 to describe the cheese of the same

name.

Pays d’Enhaut

Located in the Vaudois Prealps, at an altitude of about 1,000 meters, the district is divided into three

communes, with about ten villages. Their territories are formed mainly by the middle part of the

Sarine valley, as well as by some lateral valleys.

Raclette du Valais PDO, © Interprofession de la Raclette du Valais

Pays d’Enhaut, near Chateau d’Oex © P. Bernardoni

Dairy cow farming is the main activity of the primary sector. It represented 15% of Pays-d'Enhaut's

activity. The milk price crisis that the country has been experiencing since the early 2000s encourages

farmers to continue their efforts to produce high added value product.

It is in this same spirit of valorization of traditions and know-how that the brand Pays-d'Enhaut

Authentique Products was created in 1996. By contributing to job creation in the valley, it also

supports the sustainable development of the territory. From the organic farmer producer to the

artisan cheesemaker or butcher through the farmer's cooperative, all partners of the Pays-d'Enhaut

Authentique Products label commit themselves to respect the criteria established by the brand and

to provide top quality products.

L’Etivaz PDO

In 1932, the producers of the region

founded the cooperative of producers

of the alpine cheese L'Etivaz, that was

in 2000 the first Swiss PDO registered

in the Federal Register of

Designations of Origin and

Geographical Indications.

The Cooperative currently has about

seventy members. It is administered

by a committee made up of 7

members elected by the producers. In

order to assist the committee in its

day-to-day management, two separate commissions have been created; one responsible for ensuring

the quality of the products and the other devolved to the promotion of Etivaz AOP.

L’Etivaz PDO, © Interprofession de l’Etivaz PDO

Pays de Gruyère

Typical landscape of Gruyère area with the Moléson mountain, © P. Bernardoni

Since 1848, the County of Gruyère extends from Montbovon to the lower end of Lake Gruyère. The

region is located in the pre-alps that reach2500 m.a.s.l. The main economic sectors are the high-tech

industry, tourism and agriculture.

Since the 12th century, the region of Gruyère is known for its cheese making. The medieval

chronicles also mention the know-how of its inhabitants who transform the milk production of their

herds into fat cheese marketed until France and Italy.

The Gruyère PDO

The strong emigration affecting Fribourg in

the 18th and 19th centuries extends the

geographical area of Gruyère production to

the cantons of Vaud, Neuchâtel, Jura and

neighbouring France. Without commercial

protection and defending only its quality,

Gruyère is nevertheless subject to imitations.

Beginning then, from the middle of the 19th

century, a movement of structuring the

profession and a fight for a name. It is

necessary to wait until 2001 for the Gruyère

to be registered as PDO at national level and

then 2011 in Europe.

Programme rationale

FAO and REDD proposed to organise the KE in two countries with similar characteristics in term of

landscape, system of production, but different history of the GI system and related institutional

Gruyère PDO, © Interprofession du Gruyère PDO

environment. France was the country that “invented” GIs, with the insertion of the concept of

Appellation of Origin (AO) in the law of in 1905 and the Protected AO in 1935. In nearly 100 years,

France has developed institutions involving in the support to producers, in the control and research

that makes this country, one if not the one that count the largest expertise and in deep knowledge

about GIs related concepts. In parallel, producers organisation have gained also knowledge and

management capacity of their GIs.

In Switzerland, the ordinance making possible to protect AOs and GIs has been adopted in 1997, so

only 20 years ago. The system of management and control of the 22 PDOs and 14 PGIs is relatively

light compared to other countries in great part because the scheme is rather new, i.e. not

overcomplicated by different administrative layers and multiplication of state agencies with different

competence.

Hence, participants had the chance to benefit from the in-depth French culture of GIs and of the

experience of a country that has set-up the GI system recently, that could equally inspire Georgian

VC operators and competent authorities.

Tableau 2: Meeting and presentations held during the KE

Organisation Person, Title Topics

Association des Producteurs Fermiers de Chevrotin et du Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Chevrotin

Julien Dumont, Animator Présentation of the Pays de Thônes et the Aravis mountain range.

Aftalp, Association des Fromages Traditionnels des Alpes Savoyardes,

Sébastien Breton, Director

Umbrella organisation for PDO and PGIs of Savoie region. Joint promotion. The possibility of links between French and Georgian GIs, especially via OrIGin, can also be discussed.

Joint enterprise GAEC « Le vent des Cimes »

Nicolas Baio, On farm cheese producer

Two products of Denomination of Origin, Reblochon and Chevrotin; alpine pasture on the farm; cheese making ; the making ; the valorisation of the products via agritourism and bed and breakfast in alpage.

Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Chevrotin (Association managing the PDO Chevrotin)

Marc Agnelletm On-farm cheese producer, Président

The history of the PDO process, the representation of the producers and the other group of operators, the ripeners collective actions / defence, quality, product promotion. Supplementary intervention by Stéphanie Duchet (INAO).

Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Reblochon (Association managing the PDO Reblochon)

Bruno Mathieu, Officer in charge of quality control

Role of the association in control and quality control; collective actions upstream, interventions with producers, special working arrangements with farmers, collaboration with State services (Departmental Directorate of Population Protection) for the control of sanitary quality.

Association des Agriculteurs du Parc Naturel Régional du Massif des Bauges (AAB) (association of the producers of the Bauges Natural Park)

Audrey Stucker, Animator

Presentation of the Massif des Bauges. Complementarity between agriculture and tourism / hospitality / direct sales on the pastures of Semnoz. The AAB, Bauges agricultural development actions in particular on the Alpage, Territorial Pastoral Plan.

Syndicat Interprofessionnel de la Tome des Bauges (Sitob) (Association managing the PDO Tome des Bauges)

Caroline Petite, Animator Presentation of the Massif des Bauges, complementary actions of the two organizations. The Sitob: the Tome des Bauges approach since its launch.

Syndicat Interprofessionnel de la Tome des Bauges

Dominique Dupérier, On-farm cheese producer. Former president

Meeting with a mountain farmer, founding member of Sitob in 1986. Producer organization and collective approach.

Coopérative laitière de Lescheraines (Dairy cooperative)

Thierry Boch, Administrator of the cooperative Nadine Lombard, Officer in charge of quality control

Dairy vist. Milk production, Cooperative management and commercialisation of product

Certipaq (certification body) Adrien Trucas, Certification & Control Development Manager

Role of Certipaq

Organisation Person, Title Topics

Répression des Fraudes Julie Unzeitig, Inspector Role of the competent authority against frauds and infringements, relation with the other administrations (e.g. customs)

Fromagerie du Val d’Aillon Madeleine Trépied, Former milk producer and member of the board of the dairy cooperative

Establishment of a dairy and transformation in the mountains, direct sales, targeting tourists, in a production unit processing few hundred thousand kg of milk collected.

Alpage de l'Arollette, Service de vulgarisation de l'Etat du Valais

François Veuthey Ag. Advisor, Sheep milk producer

Management of alpage and high mountain pastures

La Fromathèque Bertrand Gabioud, Owner Promtion of premium regional products

Interprofession Raclette du Valais AOP (Association managing the PDO Raclette du Valais)

Urs Guntern, Director Presentation of the raclette du Valais PDO, Organisation and role of the association, fraudes fighting

PDO PGI Swiss commission Corinne Couillerot, Vice president of the commission

Swiss PDO and PGI commission, examination of applications for protection, composition of the commission

Alpage de Mase-La Louère Jean-Louis Garin, Agritourism farm Agri-tourism, Hosting on alpage

Migros (largest Swiss retailer) Damien Zufferey, Marketing director

Place of PGI and PDO and other labels in the retailer strategy

Interprofession du Gruyère PDO Thierry Bize, Quality and control commission

Internal control, Sensory analysis, Taxation system

Cheese-making of Grandvillard Laurent Python, Cheese master Direct selling, diversification

Intercantonal Certification Body (OiC) Christian Beuret, Vice- Director On site Inspection of cheese maker process unit by certification body.

Alpage Pâquier Mottiez Nicolas Mottier, Farmer Cheese producer

Natural park labelling, Interaction traditional products-tourism.

Les Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau Jean-Jacques & Armelle Morier, Farmers

Agri-tourism, Hosting on farm

Coopérative de la Tzintre (cooperative of Alpage cheeses)

René Kolly, President Nicolas Esseiva, Manager

Importance of cheese making on alpage, rippening and marketing of the cheese by the cooperative, role of the coop and realtion with the Interprofession of Gruyère and Interprofession of Vacherin

Meetings with VC stakeholders, producers, producer organisations and support organisations

allowed to the KE participants to understand how GI VC are managed and coordinated to comply

with GI requirements and promote GI products on the market.

Georgian producers and competent authorities were also able to grasp the level of requirements in

term of food safety by visit and observation of production facilities on the farm in the lowlands and

in the alpage.

Other meetings were organised with authorities and certification bodies in charge of the control and

certification of GI products and surveillance on the market.

Altogether 24 meetings were organised during the 6 days that lasted the KE (see Table 3).

Table 3: Meetings and topics covered

Organisation Person, Title

Pro

du

cer

org

anis

atio

ns

Co

ntr

ol a

nd

cert

ific

atio

ns

Foo

d s

afet

y /

flex

ibili

ty &

der

oga

tio

n

Mar

ket

surv

eilla

nce

M

arke

tin

g &

pro

mo

tio

n

GIs

& r

ura

l

tou

rism

Pas

ture

man

agem

ent

Oth

er q

ual

ity

lab

els

Oth

er


Julien Dumont, Animator


Sébastien Breton, Director


Nicolas Baio, Cheese producer


Marc Agnelletm On-farm cheese producer, Président


Pro

du

cer

org

anis

atio

ns

Co

ntr

ol a

nd

cert

ific

atio

ns

Foo

d s

afet

y /

flex

ibili

ty &

der

oga

tio

n

Mar

ket

surv

eilla

nce

M

arke

tin

g &

pro

mo

tio

n

GIs

& r

ura

l

tou

rism

Pas

ture

man

agem

ent

Oth

er q

ual

ity

lab

els

Oth

er


Bruno Mathieu, Officer in charge of quality control


Audrey Stucker, Animator


Caroline Petite, Animator


Dominique Dupérier, On-farm cheese producer. Former president


Thierry Boch, Administrator of the cooperative Nadine Lombard, Officer in charge of quality control

Certipaq (certification body) Adrien Trucas, Certification & Control Development Manager

Direction départementale de la cohésion sociale et de la protection des populations Direction générale de la concurrence, de la consommation et de la répression des fraudes

Julie Unzeitig, Inspector, (DDCSPP) Anne BURTHEY (DGCCRF)

Fromagerie du Val d’Aillon

Madeleine Trépied, Former milk producer and member of the board of the dairy cooperative


François Veuthey Ag. Advisor, Sheep milk producer

La Fromathèque Bertrand Gabioud, Owner of la Fromathèque


Urs Guntern, Director

PDO PGI Swiss commission Corinne Couillerot, Vice president of the commission

PDO&PGI

registration

Sensory analysis

Alpage de Mase-La Louère Jean-Louis Garin, Agritourism farm

Migros (largest Swiss retailer) Damien Zufferey, Marketing director

Interprofession du Gruyère PDO

Thierry Bize, Quality and control commission

Sensory analysis

Dairy of Grandvillard Laurent Python, Cheese master

Intercantonal Certification Body (OiC)

Christian Beuret, Vice- Director


Pro

du

cer

org

anis

atio

ns

Co

ntr

ol a

nd

cert

ific

atio

ns

Foo

d s

afet

y /

flex

ibili

ty &

der

oga

tio

n

Mar

ket

surv

eilla

nce

M

arke

tin

g &

pro

mo

tio

n

GIs

& r

ura

l

tou

rism

Pas

ture

man

agem

ent

Oth

er q

ual

ity

lab

els

Oth

er

Alpage Pâquier Mottiez Nicolas Mottier, Farmer Cheese producer

Biodamic farming

Les Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau

Jean-Jacques & Armelle Morier, Farmer


René Kolly, President Nicolas Esseiva, Manager

Results of the knowledge exchange

Producer organisations managing GIs

The structuration of GI value chain is one of the main factors of success. This implies at least the

existence of one organisation by GI that plays different roles like guaranteeing quality and promoting

the products on the market. Representatives of Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Chevrotin, Syndicat

Interprofessionnel du Reblochon, Syndicat Interprofessionnel de la Tome des Bauges, Interprofession

Raclette du Valais AOP (Association managing the PDO Raclette du Valais) exposed challenges to

found and make associations, and the different activities they carried for the benefit of the Gis and

their producers.

The different meetings with these Syndicat (FR) and Interprofession (CH) clarified also :

Their mission

the competences conferred by the state to these organisations

their internal organisation with the different organs and their function

The Association des Fromages Traditionnels des Alpes Savoyardes, an association that gathers

producers of 8 GI cheeses (Abondance, Beaufort, Chevrotin, Emmental de Savoie, Raclette de Savoie,

Reblochon, Tome des Bauges, Tomme de Savoie) explain roles that such organisation can play in

mutualising functions such as :

Control, selection of one single Certification body, organisation of the internal control and

adoption of common control tools

R&D, on link between quality and the territory or pasture and meadow management, market

monitoring

Support of the operators, information, qualification of animal feed

Communication with organisation of different events

Representation in front of the different administration and partners

This umbrella organisation is particularly important for those GI value chains that are relatively small

compared to the largest. Indeed, the 8 GIs of different dimension involve only 60 dairies and 300 on-

farm cheese makers. Only by joining forces, cheese producers of the Savoie region are able to

sustain:

The cheese road

The cheese festival

Pedagogical actions targeting pupils

Websites, social networks, newsletters

Meeting with AFTALP in the “Maison du Reblochon” in Thône, © P. Bernardoni

Economic entities participating to the VC structuring

Within the different GI VC, single producers have founded different entities gathering milk and dairy

producers.

The KE participants exchanged with several cooperatives:


Fromagerie du Val d’Aillon (Dairy cooperative)

Coopérative de la Tzintre (cooperative of Alpage cheeses ripening)

The discussions focused on the role of these entities in the management of quality and traceability

and contractual arrangements with cooperative members.

Ripening Gruyère d’Alpage in the cooperative de la Tzinte, © P. Bernardoni

Meeting with the joint enterprise GAEC « Le vent des Cimes » showed how dairy producers are able

to pool financial resources and complementary skills to manage their enterprise producing

Reblochon fermier PDO, Chevrotin PDO and Tomme de Savoie PGI.

Main lessons learned

Importance of the joining forces to meet retail sector requirements in term of volumes but also

standards

Facilitated access to subsidies and commercial credits for GAEC

Opportunity of optimizing skills of associates by specialisation (milk production, cheese making,

marketing, administration) in GAEC

Control and certifications of GIs

Certification of GIs is one of the big challenges for Georgian VC operators, competent state agencies

and certification bodies will face in a near future, as soon the new law on GIs is adopted. Three

meetings focused exclusively on this topic; two with certification bodies and one with a staff of the

Gruyère PDO quality control commission in charge of the internal control:

Certipaq (certification body)

OiC (Certification Body)

Interprofession du Gruyère PDO

Presentation of the control system by the OiC in Granvillard dairy, © P.Bernardoni

The two certification bodies presented how the controls are conducted, highlighting the required

documentation single producers have to provide (auto-control) and the importance of the internal

control ensured by the GI interprofessional organisations.

The representative of the Gruyère PDO explains in detail the way the quality commission conduct

checks and how the organoleptic assessment is performed (incl. grading system).

The producer of the dairy Grandvillard where the OIC presented the control and certification system

explained how resistant were initially the producers of Gruyère PDO, before to emphasize the

economic benefits they gain over the years as result of a clear improvement of the Gruyère quality.

The same producer considered that the certification costs (about 400 CHF per year) were definitively

affordable in regards of the benefits of the GI. He however underlined that the accumulation of the

different certification schemes costs reached a couple of thousands francs yearly, and budgetary line

not to undermine.


Internal control scheme is key for an efficient control and to maintain/improve quality

Control and certification is a necessary burden to improve VC efficiency and quality of the GI

GIs certification costs are worth in comparison to the GI benefits

Food safety standards and particular flexibility and derogation regulations

Participants had the chance to visit several facilities and to witness how even small operators can

ensure food safety by producing dairy product observing food safety and hygiene good practices.

Alpage production of L’Etivaz PDO in thanks heated by firewood, © P. Bernardoni

The various visits did also revealed different derogations applicable to the different GI cheeses:

Use of wood (usually epicea) to ripen the cheese (all cheeses visited)

Use of fire to heat the thank on the Alpage Pâquier Mottiez to produce L’Etivaz

Use of thanks in cupper in case of Tome des Bauges

Flexibility rule could also be observe in alpage and on-farm dairies:

Absence of room dedicated to the reception of input in alpage de Mase-La Louère

Absence of gloves for some actions requiring direct skin sensation in the fromagerie de

Grandvillard.

The president of the Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Chevrotin described how the food safety are

conducted by the different state agencies involved. Mr Marc Agnelet commented that controls can

be announced or not.

The technicians in charge of quality control at the Coopérative laitière de Lescheraines (Dairy

cooperative) emphasised that the establishment of the quality management system is a learning

process and that she keeps bringing changes to better manage quality and/or comply with different

clients requirement.


Hygiene and food safety compliance is controlled by a specific state agency

Controls can be announced or not

All studied GIs had some derogation rule in comparison with the official requirements (use of wood,

use of fire to heat the cheese, wooden wall and floor surfaces, etc.)

Market surveillance and fight against fraud

Two representatives from the authorities – Direction départementale de la cohésion sociale et de la

protection des populations, Direction générale de la concurrence, de la consommation et de la

répression des fraudes – in charge of monitoring the market and identify infringement and misuses

of GI on the market presented their institutions mission, activities, frequency of control and

interaction with GI syndicates.

A point was also made on the collaboration with third countries in order to take action on

infringement of domestic GI in those countries. Some misuses of Georgian products in France and

French products in Georgia were mentioned and closer collaboration between French and Georgian

activities discussed after the formal meeting.

Lessons learned

The state must monitor the market and take action when infringements are found

The authorities in charge must liaise and cooperate with the producers managing the protected GI

International cooperation is crucial in order to protect GIs internationally

Marketing and promotion of GIs

Aftalp, Association des Fromages Traditionnels des Alpes Savoyardes exposed a number of activities

that aim to promote cheese consumption in general and the specific GIs that for most of them small

value chains that would be unable to develop promotion campaign with national or international

outreach.

Co-branding of cheeses from Savoie and Savoie region

The promotion strategies of the studied GIs cheeses relies on:

Twinning. Joint promotion of several GI product – The 8 GI cheeses of Savoie, GIs from Valais

(see illustration below), Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois

Co-branding of the GI cheese and the region – Cheeses of Savoie and Savoie, Tome des

Bauges PDO and Parc Naturel Régional du Massif des Bauges

Twinning promotion of Raclette PDO, Dry meat of Valais PGI and Rye bread from Valais PDO

Over the past 25 years, direct sales from farmer to end consumers have greatly increased. The

Laitière de Lescheraines (Dairy cooperative), Fromagerie du Val d’Aillon and the Dairy of Grandvillard

have all open a shop that sells their own products but also other producers dairy products, other

traditional processed products such as jams, honey, cured meat, wines, spirits and juice. This concept

is more likely to attract clients who often want to purchase more than one products per outlet.

Migros, one of the two retailers that together with COOP has 70% of

the market share, described a market strategy including GIs with

their overall strategy that gives priority to products from the region

(in this case Valais). The retailer has developed the label “De la

region” (from the region) that guarantee that a certain percentage

of the input originate from the region and the value addition takes

place in the region. This label vehicle different promises to the

consumers:

Environmental sustainability. Food miles and higher trust in

local farming system

Social benefit for the region. Employment

Freshness of the products, that is especially important for

fruit and vegetable

Participants had the chance to experience a lunch La Fromathèque a store that sells and serves

traditional cheeses, processed meat and wines coming exclusively from the canton Valais. While

buying their products or having meals, clients can observe cheese makers processing Raclette PDO

and the cheeses aging on their epicea shelves.

La Fromathèque website banner


Marketing of GI use several Twinning (marketing of several GIs or a GI with other regional products)

or co-branding (marketing of the GI and the region of production)

In order to be attractive to consumers, most of the producers selling their products in their own shop

widen their assortment with other types of traditional products.

Retailers, to respond to consumers’ expectation, tend increasingly to advertise the sustainability of

their products.

Joining forces producer of single GIs or several GIs allows reaching higher number of consumers

Relation between GIs and rural tourism

In Switzerland, KE participants experienced agri-tourism at the Alpage de Mase-La Louère and at the

Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau.

The owner of the Chambres d’hotes du berceau explained that over the years, the share of income

from the hosting activity increased to the point it equals the income from farming activities.


Farming, traditional products and agri/rural tourism can often be complementary

Hosting (meals and accommodation) can contribute significantly to the farmer income

High mountain summer pasture management

The service de vulgarisation de l'Etat du Valais (state extension service) presented high mountain

summer pasture management private model and the consortage model. Consortage means joint

management of work and collective goods, and is the traditional model adopted in Valais, but also in

many Apline regions to manage high mountain pastures.

Optimisation of high mountain pasture, © P. Bernardoni

On the Alpage de l'Aulp de Marlens, participants could observe the optimized use of grassland

through fencing.


Large high mountain pasture management need proper organisation and property rights

Grassland needs to be soundly managed to ensure resources sustainability

Other quality labels with special focus on nature protected area labels and sustainable farming

On the Alpage Pâquier Mottiez, the producer exposed the requirement and governance system of

the label du Parc du Pays d’Enhaut et de la Gruyère. The label is used on GI and non-GI products. This

farmer also explained marketing of L’Etivaz under Demeter certification mark guaranteeing

biodynamic farming.

In the massif des Bauges, the participants were also briefly explained different initiatives to promote

products of the Natural Park through the label of the park and markets organised by the park

administration and the association of producers of the park.


Natural park label or regional labels allow promoting baskets of products, including GI as leading

products

In some cases, GI products can be labelled organic or biodynamic, etc.

Other topics addressed during meetings

Examination of application for PDO and PGI registration

The vice-president of the PDO and PGI Swiss commission explains in detailed the way the

commission work, the composition of the commission, the main reasons for rejection, the frequency

of meetings, etc.

Presentation by the PDO and PGI commission vice-president at the Alpage de Mase-La Louère

After a long debate on who makes the final decision if parties do not reach consensus, the

commission vice-president emphasised that courts make a decision and not the state administration.

Main lesson learned

The judicial system has a key role and must be knowledgeable about GI system

Sensory analysis

The representative of the Interprofession of Gruyère PDO explained the way the organoleptic

commission works.


The sensory analysis is the main assessment element to decide if a GI complies with the specification

Milk delivery at the Fromagerie de l’Allion

Annexes

Annex 1: Programme of the knowledge exchange

Monday 18

Pays de Thônes (FR)

Time Organisation Person Function Location Topics

04.15 Meeting at Tbilisi airport

05.25-10.35

FlightTbilisi - Geneva

11.00 Meeting and departure to France

11.00 - 12.00

Transport Geneva airport - Thônes

12.00 - 13.30

Installation à l'hôtel et Déjeuner

Hôtel de l'Hermitage 8 avenue du Vieux Pont 74230 - Thônes

13.30 - 14.45

Sieste

14.45 - 15.00

Transport Hôtel - Maison du Reblochon (House of Reblochon)

15.00 - 16.30


Julien Dumont Animator

Maison du Reblochon 28 rue Louis Haase 74230 Thônes

Présentation of the Pays de Thônes et the Aravis mountain range.


Sébastien Breton

Director Umbrella organisation for PDO and PGIs of Savoie region. Joint promotion. The possibility of links between French and Georgian GIs, especially via OrIGin, can also be discussed.

16.30 - 17.30

Transport (30 minutes) et walk (30 minutes) to the alpage de l'Aulp de Marlens

17.30 - 21.00

Joint enterprise GAEC « Le vent des Cimes » Visite - Discussion with producers

Alpage de l'Aulp de Marlens

Lieu dit "Les Fontanettes" - 74230 Le Bouchet Mont

Charvin

Two products of Denomination of Origin, Reblochon and Chevrotin; alpine pasture on the farm; cheese making ; the making ; the valorization of the productsvia agritourism and bed and breakfast in alpage.

Diner

Overnight Hotel Hermitage - Thônes

Tuesday 19

Massif des Aravis puis Massif des Bauges (FR)


06.30-07.00

Breakfast Hôtel de l'Hermitage - Thônes

07.00 - 07.30

Trajet en bus Thônes - Alpage des Confins

07.30 - 09.30


Marc Agnellet On-farm cheese producer. Président

Alpage des Confins, la Clusaz

The history of the PDO process, the representation of the producers and the other group of operators, the ripeners collective actions / defense, quality, product promotion. Supplementary intervention by Stéphanie Duchet (INAO).

09.30 - 10.00

Trajet en bus Alpage des Confins - Thônes

10.00 - 10.30

INAO Stéphanie Duchet

Salle de réunion Maison du Reblochon 28 rue Louis Haase 74230 Thônes

Fin intervention / présentation INAO.

10.30 - 12.30


Bruno Mathieu Officer in charge of quality control

Role of the associaition in control and quality control; collective actions upstream, interventions with producers, special working arrangements with farmers, collaboration with State services (Departmental Directorate of Population Protection) for the control of sanitary quality.

12.30 - 14.00

Lunch Buffet sur place Maison du Reblochon

14.00 - 15.00

Trajet en bus Thônes - Semnoz Pass

15.00 - 16.00

Association des agriculteurs du Parc Naturel Régional du Massif des Bauges

Audrey Stucker Semnoz pass (In case of rain in Chatelard)

Presentation of the Massif des Bauges. Complementarity between agriculture and tourism / hospitality / visit / direct sales on the pastures of Semnoz.

16.00 - 16.45

Trajet en bus Le Semnoz - Le Chatelard

17.00 - 19.00


Audrey Stucker Animator

Maison du Parc (Park centre), Avenue Denis Therme 73630 Le Châtelard

The AAB, Bauges agricultural development actions and in particular on the Alpage component, the Territorial Pastoral Plan.


Caroline Petite Animator Presentation of the Massif des Bauges, complementary actions of the two organizations. The Sitob: the Tome des Bauges approach since its launch.

19.00


Dominique Dupérier

On-farm cheese producer. Former president of the

Syndicate

Restaurant Les Clarines 73630 Le Chatelard

Meeting with a mountain farmer, founding member of Sitob in 1986. Producer organization and collective approach.

Dinner

Overnight L'eau Vive Ternélia Christine Poussard

Base de loisirs, 73340 Lesheraines

Wednesday 20

Massif des Bauges (FR)


06.30-08.00

Breakfast Christine Poussard


8.30 - 11.00


Thierry Boch Nadine Lombard

Administrator of the cooperative Officer in charge of quality control

Adresse : chez Lovat 73340 Lescheraines

Dairy vist. Milk production, Cooperative management and commercialisation of product

11.00 - 12.00

Certipaq (certification body) Adrien Trucas Certification & Control Development Manager

Role of Certipaq

12.00 - 13.30

Lunch La Grolle - Lescheraines

13.30 - 15.00

Répression des Fraudes Julie Unzeitig Inspector Coopérative laitière de Lescheraines

Role of the competent authority against frauds and infringements, relation with the other administrations (e.g. customs)

15.00 - 15.30

Trajet de Lescheraines à Aillon le Jeune

15.30 - 17.30

Fromagerie du Val d’Aillon Madeleine Trépied

Former milk producer and member of the board of the dairy cooperative

Chef Lieu 73340 Aillon le Jeune

Establishment of a dairy and transformation in the mountains, direct sales, targetting tourists, in a production unit processing few hundred thousand kg of milk collected.

17.30 -18.00

Trajet Aillon le Jeune - La Frénière à La Motte en Bauges

18.00 - 19.30

Dairy farm Patrick Pavy Dairy producer, member of the Lescheraines cooperative

Gaec de la Marmotte La Frenière 73340 La Motte-en-Bauges

Milk production, traceability, milk quality, relation with the cheese-makers

19.30 - 20.00

Trajet La Frenière - Dinner

20.00 Dinner Le Plat Gourmand

Restaurant 73340 Arith

Overnight L'eau Vive Ternélia Christine Poussard


Thursday 21

Valais (CH)


06.00-06.30

Breakfast Base de loisirs, 73340 Lesheraines

06.30 - 08.30

Transport by bus Lesheraines - Tête-noire

08.45 - 09.45

Walk to the alpage of the Arollette

09.45 - 11.15


François Veuthey Emile Deslarzes

Conseiller agricole Sheep milk producer

Alpage de l'Arollette Management of alpage and high mountain pastures

11.15-12.00

Walk back from the Alpage de l'Arollette

12.15-12.45

Transport to Fromathèque de Martigny

13.00 - 14.00

Lunch Fromathèque, Martigny

14.15 - 15.30

State advisory service la Fromathèque

François Veuthey Bertrand Gabioud

Mountain summer pasture regulatory framework and joint management. Fromathèque as promotion tool of regional cheeses

15.30-16.00

Transport Fromathèque - Conthey

16.00-17.30


Urs Guntern Director Avenue de la Gare 2, CP 197, 1964 Conthey

Presentatation of the raclette du Valais PDO, Organisation and role of the association, fraudes fighting

17.45 - 18.45

Transport by bus Conthey - Val d'Hérens

18.00 - 19.15

PDO PGI Swiss commission Corinne Couillerot

Vice president of the commission

Alpage de Mase-La Louère, 46°11'.42.22" N 7°28'36.32" E

Swiss PDO and PGI commission, examination of applications for protection, composition of the commission

19.30 Dinner Jean-Louis Garin

Agritourism farm Alpage de Mase-La Louère Agri-tourism experience. Raclette with raclette du Valais PDO

Overnight Alpage de Mase-La Louère Jean-Louis Garin

Agritourism farm Alpage de Mase-La Louère

Friday 22

Pays d'Enhaut (CH)


06.30 - 07.20

Breakfast Alpage de Mase-La Louère

07.30-08.30

Transport by bus Alpage de Mase - Martigny

08.30-10.00

Migros (largest Swiss retailer) TbD Migros Valais Administration, Rue des Finettes 45, 1920 Martigny

Place of PGI and PDO and other labels in the retailer strategy

10.00-11.00

Transport Martigny - Gruyère

11.00-12.00

Gruyère PDO Thierry Bize Quality and contrôle commission

Auberge de la Halle Internal control, Sensory analysis, Taxation system

12.00 - 13.30

LUNCH Auberge de la Halle, Gruyère

14.00-16.00

Cheese-making of Grandvillard Laurent Python Direct selling, diversification

Intercantonal Certification Body (OiC) Christian Beuret

Director Chemin de la Fruitière 11, 1666 Grandvillard

On site Inspection of cheese maker process unit by certification body.

16.30-18.30

Alpage Pâquier Mottiez Nicolas Mottier

Cheese producer Alpage Pâquire Mottiez, 46°24′28.830″N 7°11′24.002″E

Natural park labelisation, Interaction traditional products-tourism.

19.30 Dinner Jean-Jacques & Armelle Morier

Les Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau

Route des Monnaires 73, 1660 Château-d'Oex

Overnight Hotel Roc&Neige Les Monnaires 46, 1660 Château-d'Oex

Les Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau Jean-Jacques & Armelle Morier


Saturday 23

Pays de Gruyère (CH)


07.30 - 08.30

Breakfast Les Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau

08.30 -09.15

Transport en bus Château-d'Oex - Charmey

09.30 - 11.00


René Kolly Nicolas Esseiva

President La Tzintre 53, 1637 Charmey CH

Importance of cheese making on alpage, rippening and marketing of the cheese by the cooperative, role of the coop and realtion with the Interprofession of Gruyère and Interprofession of Vacherin

11.30 - 13.00

Transport en bus Charmey - GVA

13.15 Arrival at geneva airport

13.30 Check-in

14.45-03.10 (+1)

Flight Geneva - Tbilisi

Annex 2: Contacts

Organisation Contact person Function Location / adrdress Phone (+41 CH; +33 F) email Website

Aftalp, Association des Fromages Traditionnels des Alpes Savoyardes

Sébastien Breton Director 04 50 32 74 79 [email protected]

http://www.fromagesdesavoie.fr/en/

Alpage de l'Arollette, Emile Deslarzes Shepard Alpage de l'Arollette

Alpage de Mase-La Louère Jean-Louis Garin Director Alpage, 1968 Mase, 46.195475, 7.476839

079 304 14 35 [email protected]

http://www.alpagedemase.ch/index.php?page=restauration

Alpage Pâquier Mottiez Nicolas Mottiez Cheese producer Alpage Pâquier Mottiez, 46°24′28.830″N 7°11′24.002″E

079 301 78 84 026 924 69 89

http://www.ihr-lebenskreis.ch/fr

Association of the producers of the Bauges Natural Park

Audrey Stucker Animator Maison du Parc (Park centre), Avenue Denis Therme

04 79 54 97 56 [email protected]

http://www.parcdesbauges.com


Julien Dumont Animator Maison du Reblochon 04 50 32 74 79 [email protected] http://www.chevrotin-aop.fr

Certipaq (certification body) Adrien Trucas Certification & Control Development Manager

06 73 22 42 19 https://www.certipaq.com

Cheese-making of Grandvillard Laurent Python Cheese maker Granvillard 079 285 37 89 [email protected] www.laiterie-de-grandvillard.ch

Coopérative fribourgeoise des producteurs de fromage d'alpage

René Kolly Nicolas Esseiva

President and MP la Tzintre 53 1637 Charmey 026 927 12 21 [email protected] [email protected]

https://fromage-alpage.ch

Coopérative laitière de Lescheraines Nadine Lombard Responsable qualité, salariée de la coopérative

04 79 63 30 37


Thierry Boch Administrator of the cooperative

Adresse : chez Lovat 06 47 05 24 28 http://www.fromageriedelescheraines.com

Direction Départementale de la Cohésion Sociale et de la Protection des Populations

Julie Unzeitig Inspector 04 56 11 06 11 [email protected]






http://www.parcdesbauges.com/

http://www.parcdesbauges.com/


Fromagerie du Val d’Aillon Madeleine Trépied Former milk producer and member of the board of the dairy cooperative

Chef Lieu 06 13 37 10 88 https://www.lesaillons.com/fromagerie-du-val-d-aillon-1.html

Gruyère PDO Thierry Bize Quality and contrôle commission

Auberge de la Halle 026 921 84 10 [email protected] https://gruyere.com/

Hotel Roc&Neige Michaël Chapalay Les Monnaires 46, 1660 Château-d'Oex

026 924 33 50 [email protected] www.roc-et-neige.ch

Intercantonal Certification Body (OiC) Christian Beuret Director Chemin de la Fruitière 11, 1666 Grandvillard

076 498 34 62 https://www.oic-izs.ch/


Urs Guntern Director Avenue de la Gare 2, CP 197, 1964 Conthey

027 345 40 90 [email protected] www.raclette-du-valais.ch


François Thabuis Agriculteur associé du GAEC

Vallée : 04 50 64 14 93 Alpage : 04 50 64 19 35 [email protected]

http://www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com/rhone-alpes/haute-savoie/serraval/ferme/gaec-le-vent-des-cimes/457150

La Fromathèque Bertrand Gabioud Director Route du Gd-St-Bernard 28 1921 Martigny-Croix


http://www.lafromatheque.ch

Les Chambres d'Hôtes du Berceau Jean-Jacques & Armelle Morier



Migros (largest Swiss retailer) Damien Zufferey Product developper Migros Valais Administration, Rue des Finettes 45, 1920 Martigny

Parc naturel régional Gruyère Pays-d’Enhaut

Lea Megali Caroline Rosat

biologiste, cheffe de projet Parc

Place du Village 6, 1660 Château-d’Œx


http://gruyerepaysdenhaut.ch

PDO PGI Swiss commission Corinne Couillerot Vice president of the commission

Alpage de Mase-La Louère, 46°11'.42.22" N

[email protected]

Service de la protection des consommateurs

Elmar Pfammatter Chimiste cantonal Rue Pré-d'Amédée 2, 1950 Sion 027 606 49 55 [email protected]

Service de vulgarisation de l'Etat du Valais

François Veuthey Conseiller agricole Sheep milk producer

Av. Maurice Troillet 260 CH – 1950 Sion



http://www.roc-et-neige.ch/

https://www.oic-izs.ch/


http://www.raclette-du-valais.ch/


http://www.lafromatheque.ch/

http://www.lafromatheque.ch/




http://gruyerepaysdenhaut.ch/





Caroline Petite Directrice 04 79 52 11 20 [email protected] http://www.tome-des-bauges.com


Dominique Dupérier Caroline Petite

Animator 28 rue Louis Haase 74230 Thônes

04 50320579 [email protected]


Marc Agnellet On-farm cheese producer. Président

Maison du Reblochon 28 rue Louis Haase 74230 Thônes

Alpage : 04 50 02 41 85 Vallée : 04 50 02 54 16

http://www.chevrotin-aop.fr/


Bruno Mathieu Officer in charge of quality control

04 50 32 74 74 [email protected] http://www.reblochon.fr


http://www.chevrotin-aop.fr/


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