right on replicas, llc step-by-step review 20141216*...2014/12/16 · right on replicas, llc...

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20141216* US Coast Guard Cape-Class Patrol Boat 1:82 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #HL216 Review

The USCG Cape-class patrol boats were 95-foot steel hull patrol boats with aluminum superstructures. They were built in the 1950s and served until the 1980s and were unnamed until 1964, when they acquired names of US capes of land. Originally designed for anti-submarine warfare, all 36 boats in this class were built at the United States Coast Guard Yard in Curtis Bay, Maryland. The Cape-class cutters were equipped as coastal sub-chasers, with a forward-firing "Mousetrap" ASW weapon and depth charge racks aft. There were three sub-classes or types that evolved as missions for the boat changed. The Type A was outfitted primarily for ASW, Type B was Search and Rescue (SAR) and Type C was more commercial in use. The paint scheme with the Coast Guard "racing stripe" wasn't introduced until the 1964 when the ships were named. Prior to 1964 the hull was white with just the registry numbers on the side. For the Modeler: This review covers the Round 2 “The Lindberg Line” kit #HL216. It is a 1:82 Scale Coast Guard Cape Class ship. The kit has over 180 parts molded in White and Clear with a roll of Black thread. This is a Skill Level 2 for the moderate builder as it requires Glue. It is a Re-release (Re-Pop) of the original Lindberg kit and contains all the original parts! Previously, Lindberg offered a motorized version of this kit also. It has seen multiple box arts and even been under different brands in the past. The hull consists of multiple parts with the main deck in one piece. Many of the details are small so take care as you assemble it. There is an updated set of decals that includes four different versions that can be assembled. This is one of Lindberg’s best large-scale ship kits, not to mention the only plastic kit of a post-war USCG cutter. The kit represents a Cape-class cutter in "as built" configuration. The basic shapes of the hull and superstructure look right, and many of the smaller parts, such as the Mousetrap launchers and rockets, are quite finely molded; and, with a bit of scratch-building work it is a good basis for an excellent model. Overall dimensions of the kit are Length: 14-1/2”, Width: 3”, Height: 6-1/2” on the stand to the top of the radar mast.


BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a “Replica” of a certain ship your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. NOTE ON PAINT COLOR: The instructions have a majority of the deck components painted Gold. The USCG reference book uses a color called #24 SPAR, It is a Tan/Yellow shade. To replicate this color mix 50/50 Radome Tan and Brown, then add White at 10% of your mix. I chose to use a Golden Brown mix I had on hand, while not as accurate it is closer than Gold!

PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Round 2 LLC’s 2014 version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Acrylic bottle paints and “Rattle can” spray paints. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as

I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.

PIC 2 PIC 3 Here is the Decal sheet and Flag sheet. Note four versions of the ship can be built as well as American Flags with Signal Flags for an accurate build. These are typical of Round 2 decals, good quality with sharp detail. The decal has a small carrier and floats easily with a smooth transfer and setting. I do recommend a Setting solution if you are going to use the decals over a rough surface or contours. I use Micro-Set and

Micro-Sol. The flags are paper and will need to be cut out and folded over the thread. They will be glued together with Elmer’s White Glue. Note: The instructions are a Tri-fold 8.5x11 that has the complete build assembly on the inner three sheets with a total build plan of 16 steps. The front page is a Black and White of the finished kit and all the fun little prerequisite warnings in multiple languages. The back two pages are detailed paint and decal callouts for all four hull versions. As you build the kit there are paint callouts in the assembly instructions for most parts. Paint and decals choices are the only variations for the four versions.


PIC 4 PIC 5 Start with the stand. The instructions have it Silver. Assemble the sides on to the center and align the center straight. Paint it Silver (or your choice of colors). I did mine Flat Black with Silver type. PIC 6 Here are the parts needed to start the ship assembly. The build begins with the hull. The hull needs to be painted but you can do some assembly prior to paintwork to make the job easier. Assemble the propeller and rudders first on each hull side then mate the hull sides.

PIC 7 Here is the prepared hull. On each hull side add the shaft cowl. Add the shaft and the propeller. Use the rudder mount and add the propeller mount and rudder into it. Install this unit on to the hull attaching the propeller in place. This will be painted as a unit. Once completed the propeller is painted Brass.


PIC 8 PIC 9 The deck will be Medium Gray and the hull will be White with a Black stripe and Anti-fouling Red. To start the hull paint the Anti-fouling Red first.

PIC 10 PIC 11 Tape off the Red and paint the Black on the hull, this will be taped off to create the Black Stripe and then the White will be painted for the remainder of the hull. I use 3M Fineline tape from an


Automotive Body Repair store for the initial lines. This is a vinyl tape that will leave a crisp straight line. I mask the rest of the area with 2” Blue Painters Low Tack tape.

PIC 12 Install the deck inside the hull. The hull width of this sample was slightly too wide, very slight, and use of a few well-placed clips while the glue cures will easily fix it. PIC 13 The cabin structure is started next. Paint the outer walls White as well as the small top corner braces. The upper and lower floors, control deck and panel are Medium Gray. The steering wheel and controls are Gold.

PIC 14 Assemble in this order: Install all port windows into the walls. On one side wall add the lower floor, upper floor and control panel. Attach the other side wall. Add the front wall. Add the control deck. Add the corner braces, steering wheel and controls.


PIC 15 PIC 16 The control room is built next. Paint the walls and front frame White. The ladder is Gold. The boxes that mount on the wall are Gray. Assemble in this order: Install all windows into the walls and front window frame. Add the 3 boxes in place on the back wall, there are no positive attachment points just markings where they go. Add both walls to the floor in place. Add the back wall in place. Add the front window in place. I used Elmer’s Glue on all clear parts.

PIC 17 PIC 18 Finish the control room with the pilot and roof. The roof is Gray. The pilot is painted as follows: Blue uniform, Black belt and shoes, Skin tone face and hands, Brown hair. Add the pilot in the control room at the steering wheel. Install the roof.


PIC 19 PIC 20 The deck house is continued. Paint all the parts White except the mast and exhaust unit. Assemble the exhaust unit and paint that and the mast Flat Black. Attach the cabinets in place along the walls on both sides. The locations have raised areas in the floor as to where they go. The small gear boxes go in the center platform, the larger boxes go beside the stack location. The exhaust and mast go in the stack center. A ladder is installed on each side to the upper level. Note the roof is now in place from the previous step.

PIC 21 PIC 22 Note in STEP 8 the Depth Charges are installed on the deck but in the instructions the depth charges are not assembled until STEP 14. Assemble the Depth Charges with the stands and paint them Flat Black. Assemble the Utility cabinets and paint them White with Spar color bases. The life boat is White, the life boat insert is Spar. The hatches are White with Spar bases. The flag masts are Spar as are the rollers and hooks. Decal the life boat with the hull name of your choice, see the back page for decal locations.

PIC 23 Attach the deck components to the deck. On the aft deck area add the four depth charge units. Add the angled flag post. Add the four rollers. Add the hatch. Insert the life boat seats to the life boat and add that to the deck. Add the two posts in place. On the bow of the deck add the straight flag pole. Add the four hooks. Add the four rollers. Add the round and square hatch. Add both utility boxes.


PIC 24 PIC 25 The deck house components are installed now. The rafts and life preservers are painted Florescent Red. The rings around the preservers are White. DECALS 16, 17, 18 or 19 go on the rafts. The three spotlights are White with Silver lenses. The tie ring is White. The tie post is White. The Horn is White with a Red tip. The two panels are Black. Assemble the gun turret, mount, gun, shield and ammo pack and paint it Black. Assemble the stack and paint the bottom part Spar with a Black ring on top. If you used the Post ‘64 paint-job DECAL 3 goes on the stack on both sides. On each side of the cabin mount the preserver, raft and a spotlight. The tie post is on the right side. The gun is on the aft floor of the cabin. The stack is in the center over the exhaust. On the top roof the side panels, horn and spotlight are attached. The tie ring is on the lower roof.

PIC 26 PIC 27 Assemble the radar mast now. Attach the back brace to the front. Insert the marker light into the center. Attach the top to the supports. Add the radar box. Paint this unit Spar color. Paint the radar Silver as well as the marker light lens. Attach the radar to the box and attach the whole unit to the cabin roof.


PIC 28 At this time the cabin can be mounted on to the deck.

PIC 29 PIC 30 Finish the bow components now. Assemble the mousetraps and paint them Flat Black. Paint the bombs Silver with Orange. Add the bombs to the mousetrap and install the completed assemblies on to the deck. Assemble the crank and handles and paint the unit Spar with Black grips. Attach that in place on the deck. Paint the anchors Spar and attach in place.


PIC 31 PIC 32 Finish the Aft components now. Paint the rail posts White and install 27 along the deck edge. Paint the hatches White and install in place. The Brace is Spar and installed in place.

PIC 33 PIC 34 There are two other people the instructions do not tell you where to place. Paint the skin area Skin tone. The uniforms are Blue with Black belts and shoes. Place the people where you see fit to do so on your ship.

PIC 35 The rails need to be created with the thread, use two strands and glue in place on the rail posts. I use Elmer’s Glue for this.


PIC 36 PIC 37 Tie a thread to the radar mast ends down to the roof of the pilot house on each side. This will be for the American flag and signal flags. Cut the flags you wish to use and fold in half gluing the halves together with Elmer’s Glue. Add the larger American flag to the flagpole in the same way at the stern.

PIC 38 Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be.


PIC 38a&b I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the ship in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats” loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the parts and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry.


Pic 38c For tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the decals.

PIC 39 As always there are some extra decals and parts not used. The mount for the motorized version and some other parts are left over.


999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This is one of the nicer kits Lindberg released in the larger scale. The details are crisp and nice and the overall look of the ship is correct. Although by 1964 when the paintjobs changed to the “Racing Stripe” and ships were given Cape related names, the Anti-Sub weapons had been removed and the Cape Class ships were mostly Search and Rescue. So unless decaled without the stripe and using the Pre-64 decals the build is less accurate. There is plenty of room to add details and extra stuff on the deck if you like but it looks “complete” without having to add your own stuff. Assembly is quite easy and straight forward, there were no snags in building and all the parts had connection points that were easy to locate and use. The instructions were clear on most of the parts except the extra people, but that is not an issue. I think this was a fun build and being one of the very few larger scale USCG ships on the market Round 2 LLC did a great job re-releasing it. I recommend this build. On a scale of 1 to 10 I give this one a 9.

right on replicas, llc step-by-step review 20141216*...2014/12/16 · right on replicas, llc...

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