The Vaqueros Sandstone outcrops in Castle Rock State Park have been used for climbing for over

100 years, with a dramatic increase in use in the past decade. The sandstone’s relatively hard exte-rior and the unique cavernous weathering (tafoni) make these rocks very desirable for rock climbing and bouldering. The rocks in the park represent a unique, limited, and very valuable resource to the climbing community. As a result of changes in rock climbing and increasing numbers of climbers, the

Castle Rock Climbers Committee, consisting of volunteers from the local climbing com-munity, works with California State Parks in dealing with park climbing issues. Climb-ers who have concerns about climbing issues within the park should contact the park for current policies or for questions.

Low Impact Climbing• Local climbers are committed to good stewardship

of the park. To preserve the character and beauty of the park’s rock formations and have minimum impacts on soils, vegetation, wildlife and other visitors, climbers and the park support “Leave No Trace” practices advocated by the Access Fund. “Leave No Trace” and “low impact climbing” prac-tices are listed below. The cooperation of the entire climbing community is sought in observing them.

• Observe all park rules and closures. Check park bulletin boards for notices of possible restrictions posted to protect nesting birds and other wildlife and areas recovering from overuse. Off trail activi-ties including climbing are not permitted in the San Lorenzo Headwaters Natural Preserve.

• Limit bolting. Before placing new bolts or replac-ing old ones, climbers must notify the park and receive approval. Please contact the park to initiate a bolting request.

• Help prevent erosion. Use only existing access trails. Please carry (rather than drag) crash pads. The park’s topsoil is fragile and easily displaced from the steep slopes in much of the park.

• Protect park vegetation. The park is home to a variety of mosses, plants, and trees, which in turn provide food and shelter for wildlife. Vegetation is part of the beauty of the park. One of the challenges of climbing is to work around mosses, lichens and branches without damaging them.

• Avoid formations that are fragile. The chemi-cally weathered “tafone” and “fretworks” forma-tions found on this sandstone are unique and should not be damaged.

• Respect the integrity of the rock and the climb. Chipping or drilling holds damages the rock. Please do not remove loose rock, chip, sculpt, glue or deface.

• Consider not climbing when the rock is wet. This sandstone is more fragile when it is wet so climb-

ing routes can be damaged if climbed during this time. Please allow two or three days after a heavy rain for the rock to dry before climbing.

• Avoid any rock feature that could be a petroglyph or pictograph. Avoid any climb that is known to have such features. Any suspected archaeological site found by a climber should be identified to a ranger.

• Consider visual impact. Chalk and brightly colored slings left on climbs intrude on other’s views. Consider using a chalk ball and only leave slings or chains of subdued color and low contrast as perma-nent rappel anchors.

• Avoid overcrowding rocks. The more people, the more impact – solitude also suffers.

• Consider giving something back to your park. Pick up trash and help educate uninformed individuals. Consider participating in restoration, maintenance, and trail building projects. Promote an environ-mental ethic in your recreational pursuit.

• Each climber is an ambassador to the world for all climbers. Please help make climbers look good, take responsibility for the impact on park resources and other park users, and cooperate with park staff.

Please follow these park rules and regulations:

• The park is closed from Sunset to 6 a.m. including all trails. Only registered campers in designated trail camps may be in the park overnight. Do not camp at Climbing Rocks or other areas outside the campground. Overnight parking for purposes of camping is allowed in the Castle Rock Main Park-ing lot only.

• Dogs, bicycles, glass containers and smoking are prohibited.

• Weapons, including firearms, spears, bow and arrow, BB guns, slingshots, airsoft weapons, paintball guns or any device capable of injuring or killing any person or animal are prohibited.

• Campfires are prohibited during fire season. When fire season is closed, campfires are only permitted in the designated metal fire rings in the Castle Rock Trail Camp. Check for fire season restric-tions.

• Gathering firewood including twigs and leaves is prohibited. Firewood is available for sale at Castle Rock Trail Camp.

• Quiet hours are 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. daily. Sounds should not be heard beyond your own camp. No person may disturb another person with loud or unreasonable noise at any time.

• Please respect private property rights and stay on designated trails.

• The Natural Preserve – Use inside the San Lorenzo Headwaters Natural Preserve is restricted to hiking on established trails.

• All vegetation, wildlife and geological features are protected. Do not pick wildflowers, mushrooms or other plants, nor remove any park feature. Do not feed, disturb, or harm any wildlife.

This campground is located 2.6 miles from the main parking lot using the Sara-toga Gap Trail and operates primarily on a first-come, first-served basis. Campsites are limited to six people per site. Overnight parking is only allowed in the Castle Rock main parking lot. If the kiosk is closed, you must self-register. Since all trails are closed at sunset, campers are required to remain in the campground after sunset until 6:00 a.m. Plan on being in your campsite at least

ground for a fee. Bicyclists are only permitted access to

the Castle Rock Trail camp via the Camp-ground Service Road.

Bicycles are not allowed on any trails beyond the Castle Rock Trail Camp.

Dogs are not allowed in Castle Rock State Park, including the backpacking trail camps.

½ hour before sunset to have enough light for setting up camp.

Situated on a ridge in a Knobcone Pine forest with chaparral understory, each site has a table and fire ring with piped drinking water and vault toilets nearby.

Fires are only allowed in designated fire rings when fire season is not in effect. Wood gathering is prohibited, however, campers may either bring in firewood from outside the Park or purchase firewood at the Camp-

backpacking at castle Rock tRail camp

Rock climbing

Castle Rock AreaRock or Area # of Bolts Rock height / Number of rocks

Climbs Belay Pro Climb difficulty range, Locations

Castle Rock 12 x 40’–50’ 5.4–5.12 all faces

Castle Rock Boulders 23 8+ Rocks V0–V7

Magoo Boulders 26 7 Rocks V0–V10, B5.6, 5.8

Yabo Boulders 10 5 Rocks V0–V5

The Beak 12 2+ Rocks V0–V7

Graveyard Boulders 19 9 Rocks V0–V10

Hueco Wall 9 4 Rocks V0–V7 below Magoos

Jumbalia/Lizard 4 25’ 5.0–5.8 back gully

Pyramid Rock 2 x 25’ 5.0–5.10a N, W faces

Parking Lot Rock 28 10’, 15’, 20 V0–V10

Waterfall AreaRock or Area # of Bolts Rock height / Number of rocks

Climbs Belay Pro Climb difficulty range, Locations

Waterfall, Right 18 x x 70’–85’ 5.6–5.12b R of falls

Waterfall, Left 1 x x 100’ 5.7–5.10a L of falls

Blockhead 3 x x 35’ 5.10c–5.12a Front face

Slave Cave 3 x x 50’-60’ 5.11d–5.13 L of falls

Lower Muffin 4 x x 30’-40’ 5.10d–5.11c W faces

Middle Muffin 4 x x 25’ 5.10d–5.13b W face

Upper Muffin 1 x x 20’ 5.10 W face

Muffins Bouldering 4 4 Rocks V0–V5

California Ridge AreaRock or Area # of Bolts Rock height / Number of rocks

Climbs Belay Pro Climb difficulty range, Locations

Shady Rock 10 x x 25’ 5.8–5.11c NE, SW faces

Platypus 7 x x 35’ 5.9–5.11c NE, SW faces

Chew Tooth 5 x x 20’ 5.8–5.12a NE face

California Ridge 8 x x 50’ 5.6–5.11d E face

Mud Wall 6 x x 20’–40’ 5.10a–5.11d E face

The Mudlet 2 x x 30’ 5.10a–5.10b 100’ W of MW

Underworld Rock 12 x x 70’ 5.9–5.11a NE, SE, S faces

The Gods 5 x x 20’ 5.10a–5.12a E face

Ironing Board 2 x x 30’ 5.9–5.11a

Henry and Otis 6 x 20’–30’ 5.9–5.11c

Triangle Rock 1 x 15’ 5.12b Trail very faint

Goat Rock AreaRock or Area # of Bolts Rock height / Number of rocks

Climbs Belay Pro Climb difficulty range, Locations

Goat Rock 14 x x 80’ 5.4–5.12a E, S, W faces

Goat Rock Boulders 28 15 Rocks V0+ – V8

Billy Goat Rock 5 x x 35’ 5.9–5.13 W face

Mt. Doom 5 x x 20’–45’ 5.7–5.11d E, S, W faces

Klinghoffer Boulders 25 x 8 rocks V0–V7 25’ 5.7–5.11d

Last Temptation Cliff 10 x x 35’–50’ 5.9–5.12a SW face

Skull 4 x 15’–20’ 5.0–5,11b S face

Voyeur 5 x 15’, 20’ 5.10d–5.11c

Hostess 2 x 20’ - 25’ 5.9 - 5.10d SW face

summaRy of climbs

Photos by Tim Sukovaty

MainCamp

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RussellPoint Saratoga Gap Trail

[Not to scale]

Detail of Castle Rock Trail Camp

A camping shelter is available for everyone’s use during inclement weather.

Castle Rock Falls Overlook