rock climbing rock climbing rock climbing is inherently dangerous!! proper safety technique is...
TRANSCRIPT
- Slide 1
- Rock Climbing Rock Climbing Rock Climbing is inherently dangerous!! Proper safety technique is mandatory!!Rock ClimbingRock Climbing
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- TYPES OF CLIMBING: 1. BOULDERING: Climbing on large rocks without ropes. Dont climb higher than you want to fall.
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- 2. SOLOING: (AKA: High Balling) Like bouldering, but you go a lot higher. If you fall, you die!! The Ascent of Alex Honnold More Alex Honnold
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- 3. TOP ROPING: Rope is anchored to a tree or boulder at the top of the cliff. Very safe if done properly!!! Belayer pulls up the slack when the climber goes up.
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- 4. LEAD CLIMBING: Both the climber and the rope start at the bottom. As the climber goes up, he/she places Protection and connects the rope to it. * Climber will fall Twice the distance from the last protection.
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- Two Categories of Lead Climbing: A. Sport. Preset bolts & anchors B. TRAD. Traditional. You set nuts, bolts as you ascend.
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- 5. Deep Water Soloing
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- 6. Aid Climbing : Need equipment to climb. Usually no hand/foot holds.
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- 7. MOUNTAINEERING: Combination of winter camping and rock climbing. Usually hike for a while, but eventually climb snow/ice cliffs.
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- 8. RAPELLING: A self belay down a climb.
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- Rock Climbing Equipment: Strength measured in Kilo Newton 1 KN = 225 lbs
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- 1. HARNESS: DIAPER: Fits around legs and waist. Thumbs Check!! BUCKLE MUST BE DOUBLED BACK /OR PREDOUBLED BACK!!! 20 KN
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- 2. ROPE: Dynamic!!! It stretches. KERN MANTLE: Inner nylon core with nylon mesh. 30 KN
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- ROPE CARE: 1.NEVER STEP ON ROPE. 2. NEVER LEAVE IN THE SUN. 3. KEEP AWAY FROM PETROLEUM PRODUCTS. 4. AVOID NYLON ON NYLON. 5.USE PROPER REPEL AND BELAY TECHNIQUE.
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- 3. TUBULAR WEBBING : Used for anchoring top rope and belayer. Used to make slings, and swami belts. 18 KN
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- WATER KNOT USED TO TIE TWO ENDS OF WEBBING TOGETHER TO MAKE A LOOP. USED FOR AND ANCHOR OR SWAMI BELT.
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- Daisy Chain: The proper way to store webbing.
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- 4. CARABINERS: Large metal clips used to attach rope, harness. 23 KN A. O Shaped: Weight in middle: B. D Shaped: Strongest, Weight on edge C. Locking: Locking gate prevents it from opening up.
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- 5. FRICTION DEVICES: Used to prevent a rapid decent of the climber. (used by the belayer). 1. TUBULAR: Most common(two holes): Pyramid, ATC, Tango. 2. FIGURE EIGHT: Belaying or repelling 3. BELAY PLATE / STICHT PLATE: Good for two ropes 4. LOCK: Gri Gri
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- 6. PROTECTION: A device that is placed in a crack which provides an anchor or attachment. (aka; Chocks, Friends) A) CHOCKS: (aka: Nuts, Stopper)
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- B) FRIENDS: Cam device expands in a crack to provide an anchor.
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- 7. FOOTWEAR: A). SHOES: Very uncomfortable, made for climbing, not walking. * RAND: Sticky rubber. Grips rocks well.
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- B). BOOTS: For Mountaineering. Stiff soles, insulated. Crampons for traction on glacier.
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- RATING CLIMBS: Based on the most difficult pitch of the climb. YDS: Yosemite Decimal System: CLASS 1: Walking. no special equipment or technique CLASS 2: Rolling hills. CLASS 3. CLIMBING: Steep hill, slide down. SCRAMBLING CLASS 4: EXPOSED CLIMBING: A fall could be fatal. A rope and belay are advisable.
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- CLASS 5: DIFFICULT FREE CLIMBING: Protection, anchors are needed for the leader. 5.0 Very easy. 5.5 - 5.6 Average difficultly. 5.10 Very difficult. Need talent or skill to climb. 5.14 Youre awesome if you can climb it. CLASS 6: AIDED CLIMBING: The rope and anchors are used for assistance in moving upward.
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- TIE -INS: CLIMBING ROPE SHOULD USE A FIGURE 8 KNOT FOLLOWED BACK TO TIE INTO THE HARNESS. NO CARABINERS SHOULD BE USED FOR THE CLIMBER.
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- How to BELAY!! The most important part of Rock Climbing!!!
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- Brake hand palm down.
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- TBUS Take Brake Under Slide
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- Now are we ready to Climb???
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- NO! Must do a 5 Point Check (Funnel: Start wide) ClimberBelayer Harness Above hips? Yup. Harness Above hips? Back up Belayer Looks Good.
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- Verbal & Visual Check (Funnel) ClimberBelayer Doubled Back? Yes, RU Doubled Back? Back up Belayer Hey, Make sure you check the leg loops!!!
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- HARD POINTS Where the rope is tiedand the carabineer is attached ClimberBelayer Yup, ropes is tied into the proper point HARD POINTS Back up Belayer Looks Good.
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- Figure 8 knot / beaner locked? ClimberBelayer Lets see your knot. 2,4,6,8, perfect 10 Carabineer locked? Back up Belayer Your guys rock!!
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- ATC check ClimberBelayer Rope inside carabineer Lets see your belay device Back up Belayer
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- NOW ARE WE READY TO CLIMB???
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- NO!!! VERBAL CONTRACT ClimberBelayer Please sign the dotted line before I climb!!! Lets just have a verbal contract.
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer On Belay? Belay On. (I will not let go of the rope until you tell me to )
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer Ready to Climb. Climb On.
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer Slack! Gives Slack
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer Take! Takes Slack
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer FALLING!!! Lock rope, expect a fall
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer Rock!!! Think small. Move toward wall.
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- Climbing Commands ClimberBelayer Off Belay. Belay Off.
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- TAYLOR FALLS FIELD TRIP
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- ODA at Taylor Falls
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