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WATERFALL ROCK

The Columnar Jointing that makes Waterfall Rocks so specialPhoto: Stuart Millis

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GeneralThe crag is formed by columnar jointing of volcanic tuff, making it similar in appearance to those seen at classic locations such as Giants Causeway (Ireland) and Devil’s Tower (USA), only here the rock has been subjected to a little more in the way of tropical weathering.

The top of the crag is very loose and the safest exit is by moving right along the ridge towards the headland. Beware of occasional very large unattached rocks. Helmets are recommended.

ApproachThe crag is located at the southern end of Long Ke Wan in a small bay beneath Fa Shan, at the far end of High Island Reservoir, Sai Kung, New Territories. The best approach route is as follows:

From Sai Kung town take a bus to the country park entrance on Tai Mong Tsai Road. From here it is necessary to take a taxi to the end of the East Dam of High Island Reservoir (by the large hexagonal sea defenses.) Walk to the far end of the sea wall and carefully scramble over the sea defenses to rach the rocky slopes on the far side. Cross the rock slope to reach a small dirt path on the far side and follow this. Cross a small stream and ascend to the saddle of the hill (Fa Shan). The path splits into three when you reach the headland. Follow the steep path which cuts directly down the pebble beach and carry along the coast, around two head lands (past some otherpotentially worthwhile crags) until Waterfall Rock - Fashion Crag is reached.

This approach can be made in all but high tides. However the bottom of the cliffs are washed by waves if there is a swell running so flat seas are advisable. Tide tables can be checked on the Hong Kong Observatory Website: http://www.hko.gov.hk/tide/eKLWtide.htm

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Waterfall Rock

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Waterfall Rock

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1 - More Fun than Shopping for Shoes ** - HVS 5aAt the left end of the wall is a deep ‘chimney’ like feature that where one of the columns has toppling out. Start up the remainder of the column to a small ledge. Launch into the chimney proper above this and follow it to a bolt belay on the ledges at the top.F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

2 - Doppleganger *** - HS 4bOne of the finest traditional routes in Hong Kong, following a striking feature up the largest part of the wall. The second of the deep ‘chinmey’ like features offers a delightful trip up the wall with good gear and more holds than are apparent from below. Bolt belay.F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

3 - Broadway ** - E1 5aStart up a crack on the left side of a small pool at the base of the crag. Follow this until it is possible to make a rising rightwards traverse into a shallow corner system rising above a small pedestal. Mixed trad and bolt belay at the top.F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

4 - Seamless *** - HVS 5aPossibly the most striking of the crack lines at the crag, forming a perfect straightline from top to bottom. Climb the almost perfectly straight crack in the middle of the wall, which is technical in the lower part and eases towards the top. Mixed bolt and trad belay at the top.F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

5 - Tailor Made ** - E1 5bTowards the centre of the wall are three columns that extend the full height of the crag. Follow the crack line between the central and right hand cloumn (I think?).F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

6 - Big Boots * - VS 4bStart up the slightly shattered looking area of rock to reach the hanging corner above. Follow this to the ledge at half height before continuing up the crack above.F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

7 - Clothesline ** - SevereF.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

8 - Zipper Effect * - SevereF.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

9 - Suits You Sir * - Severe F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

10 - Big Boots Rule * - Severe Follow the final flake / crack at the right end of the crag, before the wall starts to degenerate and become more blocky and ledgey. Trend left towards the top.F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

Descent: Routes one and two can be descended either by abseiling from the bolts near the top of the crag (carabiners required) or scrambling up the wall above and then down the hillside. All other routes require a short scramble to get back to the base of the crag.

Stuart Millis on the perfect crack / corner of Seamless, HVS 5aPhoto: Marijn Mees

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Other Crags

As you approach the main climbing area on Waterfall Rock you’d be hard pressed not to see the abundance of potential offered by the other crags in the area. So far explorations of these have been relatively limited but a few hundred new routes undoubtably await anyone keen enough to further explore the crags in the area.

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Jason Marsh on Clothes Line (Severe)Photo: Stuart Millis