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    Room AcousticsSteve Kindig Mar 01, 2008

    Article contents

    View bio

    The Final Component in Your System is... Your Room

    We generally think of the speakers in our stereo or home theater systems as the final link in the

    audio chain and the one that makes the biggest difference to our ears. But it's really not that

    simple. There's much more to the sound we hear than just what comes out of our speakers.

    In addition to the sound from your speakers, you hear reflected

    sound from your room's four walls (above left). Your room's

    ceiling and floor contribute reflected sound, as well (above

    right).

    The sound that you hear in any room is a combination of the direct sound that travels straight from

    your speakers to your ears, and the indirect reflected sound the sound from your speakers that

    bounces off the walls, floor, ceiling or furniture before it reaches your ears.

    Reflected sounds can be both good and bad. The good part is that they make music and speech (like

    movie dialogue) sound much fuller and louder than they would otherwise. (If you've ever playedyour speakers outdoors where there are no walls to add reflections, you've probably noticed that

    they don't sound very good thin and dull, with very little bass.) Reflected sound can also add a

    pleasant spaciousness.

    The bad part is that these reflections distort sound in a room by making certain notes sound louder

    while canceling out others. The result may be midrange and treble that's too bright and harsh or

    echoey, or bass notes that are boomy, with a muddy "one-note" quality that drowns out deep bass.

    Because these reflections arrive at your ears at different times than the sound from your speakers,

    the three-dimensional "soundstage" created by your speakers and the images of the instruments and

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    singers may become vague or smeared.

    Sound energy is in the form of invisible waves. Since our

    hearing can perceive sounds from 20-20,000 Hz, we're talking

    about wavelengths that range from 11/16" at 20,000 Hz, to

    over 56 feet at 20 Hz.

    These same reflections affect the music's timbre, or tonal quality. For example, a flute and an oboe

    have different timbre; they should sound different even when playing the same note, because each

    instrument's tones have a different harmonic structure. Reflections can obscure those crucial

    differences.

    So, for all of these reasons it should be clear that your room is really the final component in your

    system. As with any other component, there are steps you can take to improve your room's

    performance. Many people find that after accomplishing as much as they can with speaker

    placement, they still aren't happy with their system's sound. If you feel that the way your room

    interacts with your speakers is causing problems, it's time to turn to Science; the science of

    acoustics, or more specifically, room acoustics.

    The ABCs of room acoustics:

    Reflection, Absorption, Diffusion

    As we talk about room acoustics problems and room treatment solutions, the three main concepts

    we'll keep coming back to are reflection, absorption and diffusion. Some reflected sound isnecessary for music and speech to sound natural, but too much can rob your system of sound

    quality. You can control reflected sound by absorbing or by diffusing (scattering) these reflections.

    Treating room problems can be simple, like installing drapes over a large expanse of glass, or

    placing an area rug on the floor between your speakers and where you sit to listen. Or you can treat

    your room's trouble spots with specially designed products that change the way your room responds

    to sound. But the first step is understanding the basic concepts of room acoustics and the part they

    play in your everyday listening.

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    ReflectionFirst, the good newsOne of the reasons that the effects of room reflections are so noticeable is that our ears (actually, our

    entire auditory system, which also includes the brain) are amazingly sensitive at locating the source

    of a sound. Even with your eyes closed, you can usually locate the position of someone speaking to

    you in a room. Your brain uses timing differences between the original and the reflected sound to

    locate the source. It would be much more difficult in a highly reflective room with uncontrolled

    echoes. (Or outdoors in an open field, where the only reflective surface is the ground.)

    But our ears aren't perfect. Sounds that arrive at our ears soon enough after the direct sound are

    perceived as being part of the original sound. As the graph at the right shows, early reflections that

    are not too loud or delayed too long will not only increase the loudness of the sound, but can

    actually add a pleasant spaciousness.

    This effect is similar to the way our eyes fuse together the series of still pictures used to create TV

    or movies into an impression of continuous fluid movement. How quickly each image follows is the

    key: there must be at least 16 frames a second to avoid noticeable flicker. When it comes to sound,

    there are two factors: loudness and length of delay. If the reflection is too loud, or if the delay

    between the original sound and the reflection lasts too long, you'll generally hear a distinct echo.

    Part of the reason that the surround speakers in a Dolby Digital system can create such a

    believable impression of spaciousness is that the signal fed to the surround speakers includes a 15-

    20 millisecond delay.

    Now, the bad news

    There are several different ways that room reflections can interfere with your enjoyment of music

    and movie sound. Some can be treated easily and inexpensively, while others are trickier to dealwith. Let's start by talking about the unique set of reflections that develop based on the size, shape

    and dimensions of your room.

    Standing waves and room resonance modes

    Any time you have a pair of parallel reflective surfaces (like room walls, or the floor and ceiling),

    you're going to experience some degree of a phenomenon known as standing waves. Standing

    waves distort the bass and lower midrange frequencies from 300 Hz on down.

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    Standing waves are created when sound is

    reflected back and forth between any two

    parallel surfaces in your room. They affect

    frequencies below 300 Hz.

    A room's primary or "axial" resonance modes

    are based on the room's three main axes: length,

    width, and height. These resonance modes

    create bass peaks and dips of up to 10 dB

    throughout the room.

    One way to understand the effects of standing waves in a room is to think of how a microwave oven

    works. The high-frequency microwaves generated to heat the food on your plate are reflected over

    and over inside the oven compartment. As these reflections collide, some are reinforced whileothers are cancelled, creating areas of varying microwave intensity. This translates into definite hot

    spots and cold spots in your plate of food, from steaming to lukewarm to cool.

    The sound from your speakers acts in much the same way. It is reflected back and forth, over and

    over between the parallel surfaces in your room: the side walls, the front and rear walls, and the

    floor and ceiling. This creates areas of differing sound pressure or loudness: the "hot" and "cold"

    spots.

    You can easily hear these standing waves if you play some music with a lot of bass, like pipe organ

    music or reggae, and take a walk around your room, listening at different spots: the middle of the

    room, near the walls, and in the corners. You'll probably notice that the bass sounds stronger near

    the walls and especially in the corners, where standing waves tend to collect. These are specific

    types of standing waves which are called room resonance modes.Sizing up your room

    It's actually pretty easy to calculate the axial resonance modes for your room. Knowing the

    frequencies of these axial modes will provide valuable information about how your system and

    room are interacting, specifically on bass notes in the under-300 Hz range.

    First, get a tape measure and measure the length, width and height of your room. As an example,

    we'll use these typical room dimensions: 21 feet long x 12 feet wide x 8 feet high.

    The formula for finding axial room resonance modes:

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    In the example above, we've calculated our sample room's main resonance mode for length. Theroom's length is 21 feet, so plugging in 21 for our distance variable in the equation, we get a

    resonance frequency of 27 Hz.

    Our sample room has a length of 21 feet, so plugging 21 into the formula gives us our axial

    resonance mode for length.

    Resonance modes occur when the distance between the room's walls equals half the wavelength

    of the sound, and at multiples of half a wavelength. Notice that there are always sound pressure

    (volume level) peaks at the walls.

    The circled frequencies will be reinforced by the room. Frequencies appearing in more than one

    column will receive added emphasis, causing even more sound coloration. In this example, you

    can see trouble spots at 141 Hz, 188 Hz, and 282 Hz.

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    So, the main mode for the length axis of the room falls at 27 Hz (it's actually 26.9, but we're

    rounding to the nearest whole number). This means that although you'll still be able to hear deep

    bass sounds from your speakers below 27 Hz, your room cannot provide any reinforcement of

    frequencies much below 27 Hz.

    In addition to this fundamental mode at 27 Hz, there will be other weaker modes at multiples of the

    fundamental mode (2x27, 3x27, 4x27, etc...). So, along with the first mode at 27 Hz, there will be

    other resonance modes at 54 Hz, 81 Hz, 108 Hz, etc....

    Now we can use the same formula for the room's width and height. Plugging the 12-foot width into

    the formula gives us a fundamental mode at 47 Hz, with multiples at 94 Hz, 141 Hz, 188 Hz, etc.

    Using the formula again, our fundamental 8-foot height mode is at 71 Hz, plus multiples at 141 Hz,

    212 Hz, etc.

    It's a little easier to see what's going on if we arrange our room modes into a table (see right).

    There's actually more to the story than just the axial modes involving two walls, described above.

    There are also tangential resonance modes involving four room surfaces, and oblique modes

    involving all six surfaces. These other room modes don't affect the sound as strongly, but as we've

    mentioned before, all reflections affect the overall sound.

    How to deal with room resonance modesSo now that you know what room resonance modes are and how they can distort your system's

    sound, what can you do about them? In many cases, not much. These room modes are based on

    your room's dimensions, which are difficult to change. (Even bass-loving audiophiles will hesitate

    to move a wall just to hear more accurate low frequencies.) And room treatment products that are

    great for controlling treble reflections with short wavelengths don't work at all on long-wavelength

    bass reflections.

    Here are some tips and things to keep in mind concerning room resonance modes:

    Certain room shapes are fundamentally bad from a room-mode standpoint. A cube is one of

    the worst shapes for a room (each resonance mode gets triple emphasis). You'll also hear

    more standing wave distortion in rooms with two equal dimensions, or rooms with

    dimensions that are multiples, ie. 8' x 16' x 24'. If you're building a house or finishing a room, here are some room dimension ratios that are

    superior soundwise:

    Applying the 1 : 1.4 : 1.9 room

    dimension ratio (see table) to a

    room with an 8-ft. ceiling yieldsdimensions of 8'H x 11.2'W x

    15.2'L.

    In general, the smaller the room, the more its resonance modes will color bass response.

    A high, sloped ceiling tends to scatter ceiling mode effects.

    Common types of wall construction such as drywall or wood paneling on 2x4s will absorb a

    significant amount of added bass reflections in the under-125 Hz range (see table below).

    Try moving the position of your chair or sofa closer to or farther from your speakers to get

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    out of a standing wave hot spot.

    Standing waves are always stronger next to walls. If your chair or sofa has its back against a

    wall, moving it out away from the wall should reduce standing wave boominess.

    Room corners are notorious collection points for standing waves. If your room has an 8-foot

    ceiling, professionally designed bass traps can help reduce or eliminate these standing

    waves. This is accomplished by soaking up the bass reflections created by the 71 Hz

    fundamental resonance mode of the 8-foot ceiling.

    Flutter echo

    Probably the most common and immediately noticeable room problem results from having parallel

    surfaces (walls, floor and ceiling) with a hard finish that reflects sound. The resulting effect is called

    flutter echo, a ringing reverberation that remains after the direct sound has stopped.

    The sound-absorbing effectiveness of some common room surfaces.

    Fibrous materials like carpet and drapes provide significant absorption

    above 500 Hz, but have little effect on lower frequencies. Conversely,

    window glass and drywall can absorb bass frequencies, but are very

    reflective above 500 Hz. The most successful approaches combinematerials like these with professionally-designed room treatment products.

    If you've ever stood in an empty uncarpeted room or hallway, and clapped your hands, you've heard

    flutter echo. The original clap sound is reflected back and forth between two surfaces. Because the

    wavelengths of mid- and high-frequency sounds are so much shorter than those of bass notes, the

    reflections bounce around very directionally, like reflected light. The resulting sound is this ringing

    flutter echo rather than the boomy standing waves described previously.

    Flutter echo affects music by blurring transients (fast musical attacks) and adding an unpleasant

    harshness to the midrange and treble. Flutter echo and other primarily side wall reflections affect

    sounds above 500 Hz, and are a major reason why the same pair of speakers will sound different in

    different rooms.

    To treat flutter echo you need to control the reflections on one or both of the parallel surfaces. This

    usually means applying some sort of sound-absorbing or sound-diffusing material to the side walls

    between the speakers and your listening position. Carpeting or acoustic ceiling tile will reduce

    floor/ceiling flutter echo. We'll go into detail about locating and treating your room's points of

    reflectivity later.

    Reflection effects on movie dialogue

    The movie industry certainly understands how sonically damaging reflections can be. Think about

    all the reflection-absorbing surfaces in your neighborhood movie theater: heavy drapes all around,

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    upholstered chairs, and a human audience (that's right, our bodies act as sound absorbers too).

    Studies have shown that dialogue is more easily understood in rooms using one or more types of

    reflection control. Reflections can be controlled in listening rooms and home theater rooms by

    sound absorption, sound diffusion, or some combination of both.

    Absorption

    The first choice for reflection control

    The sound produced by your speakers, as well as its reflections from your room's walls, ceiling,floor and furnishings, is actually sound energy, or acoustical energy. These sound waves cause air

    particles to vibrate, and when they vibrate against our eardrums, we hear sound.

    A basic law of physics states that energy can neither be created nor destroyed, but can be converted

    into another form. If it's impossible to simply destroy all these unwanted sound reflections, how can

    we control them? This is where the concept of sound absorption enters the picture.

    If you've ever been inside a recording studio, radio or TV station, concert hall, or music practice

    room at a school or music store, you've probably seen some type of sound-absorbing material, even

    if you didn't know what it was for.

    For nearly 60 years, applying absorptive material to walls and other reflective surfaces has been the

    primary method for taming unwanted reflections. Dense, porous materials like polyurethane foam

    and fiberglass have been the most popular choices. These materials absorb sound by converting theacoustical energy (the sound) into heat.

    This happens when the air particles are driven into motion by the sound waves, then attempt to pass

    through the dense sound-absorbing material, resulting in heat-generating friction. (Don't worry, this

    energy conversion process generates tiny amounts of heat.)

    Whether we're talking about common room materials (see table) or professionally designed room

    treatment products, a material's ability to absorb sound varies according to the frequency of the

    sound. As the table shows, soft, fibrous materials like carpet and drapes will absorb most reflected

    sound above 500 Hz, yet have little or no effect on reflections below 125 Hz.

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    The illustration above left shows that a 1" thick fiberglass panel

    provides excellent absorption of sounds above 500 Hz, but that

    controlling lower-frequency reflections requires the use of thicker

    panels. As an alternative to thicker fiberglass, the illustration above

    right shows how creating an air space between the panel and wall

    surface increases low-frequency absorption.

    This makes sense when you remember the huge differences in the wavelengths of high- and low-

    frequency sounds. Fibrous materials, which are so effective at absorbing 1000 Hz sound waves a

    little over a foot long, can do very little when it comes to 125 Hz wavelengths that are 9 feet long.

    These long-wavelength reflections simply pass right through these soft materials with almost no

    resistance.

    The table on the previous page shows that drywall and window glass provide significant absorption

    in the 125 Hz range. This conversion of acoustic energy is accomplished in a different way than that

    of the soft, fibrous materials described previously. When a low-frequency sound wave strikes

    drywall or a window, those surfaces convert some of the sound energy to motion; they actually flex

    a tiny amount, thus absorbing some of the acoustic energy.

    Notice the increase in the

    absorption of reflected sounds

    especially for sounds at or above

    1000 Hz (1kHz) when the

    fabric is folded into drapes.

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    Tips on absorptive treatmentsAlthough absorptive treatments are very effective at taming flutter echo and mid- and high-

    frequency reflections in general, they won't cure all room acoustics problems. In fact, using too

    much absorptive material can itself cause problems.

    If your system was in a room with thick carpeting on the floor, acoustic tile on the ceiling, and

    heavy drapes covering much of the wall surfaces, you would have nearly all of the high-frequency

    reflections being absorbed and nearly all of the bass sounds being reflected. The sound in this room

    would be unpleasant: thick and boomy in the bass with little or no sense of spaciousness. An over-absorptive room can make spoken dialogue sound unnaturally dry.

    At the other extreme, a room with painted drywall on the walls, drywall or plaster on the ceiling,

    linoleum over concrete on the floor, and no sound absorbing drapes or rugs, would sound extremely

    bright, thin and echoey. And as we discussed, too many echoes can negatively affect movie

    dialogue, making it more difficult to understand.

    Your goal should be to balance the amount and frequency of the absorption in your room to achieve

    some bass and high-frequency absorption. Typically, bass absorption is the more difficult to

    achieve.

    Meanwhile, here are a few tips and ideas to keep in mind concerning sound absorption:

    Before turning to professional room treatment products for absorption, try to get the mostout of ordinary room materials (see table).

    Large expanses of glass such as picture windows or French doors should be covered with

    drapes.

    You don't have to treat every surface in your room. There are a few key spots which, if

    treated, will give you maximum sound improvement for your investment.

    The pad beneath a carpet contributes to its sound-absorbing ability. While your firstconsiderations should be durability and comfort, it's worth knowing that an "open-cell" pad

    such as foam rubber will absorb more sound than a "closed-cell" pad.

    Absorption is an important ingredient of room treatment, and is especially effective at treating side

    wall reflections. But absorption is not the only answer, and in many situations, it's not the best

    choice. In a small listening room, overuse of absorptive material for reflection control can result in aroom that is too acoustically "dead."

    Some music lovers think of professional recording studios which have been heavily treated with

    absorptive materials as an acoustic model, but keep in mind that studios are able to add artificial

    reverberation through electronic signal processing. Music lacking the richness contributed by the

    room effect is less involving.

    Fortunately, there are other ways to control room reflections, and increasingly, audiophiles and

    musicians are turning to diffusion.

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    Diffusion

    Until fairly recently, your acoustical room treatment options were generally limited to reflection and

    absorption. Diffusion, the scattering or redistribution of acoustical energy, was recognized as being

    sonically beneficial, but was also difficult to achieve.

    All that changed about 20 years ago when a company called RPG Diffusor Systems began

    developing innovative diffusion products based on mathematical number theory.

    The advantage of diffusion is that because the sound energy is scattered rather than absorbed, that

    energy isn't lost, thereby maintaining more of a "live" sound in your room.

    It's difficult to describe this type of diffusion because it is completely rooted in advanced

    mathematics. But it has created a revolution in sound treatment that touches nearly every aspect of

    sound production and reproduction, from world-famous concert halls to top-flight recording studios

    and broadcast facilities.

    Tips on diffusive treatments

    Diffusion products can be used to treat many of the same problems that absorption is used for.

    Again, diffusion will rid your room of echoey reflections without replacing them with acoustic

    deadness.

    Here are some situations where diffusion works particularly well:

    A bookcase

    filled with

    odd-sized

    books makes

    a very

    effective

    sound

    diffusor.

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    If your room already has built-in absorption in the form of carpeting, drapes, or acoustic

    ceiling tile, diffusion may control side wall reflections better than adding more absorption.

    You may already have a good natural diffusor in your home without realizing it. A bookcase

    filled with odd-sized books makes an effective diffusor.

    In a home theater system using traditional bookshelf speakers for surrounds, place diffusors

    in the middle of the back wall and aim your surrounds toward the diffusors at a 45 angle

    (see below).

    One of the best-sounding setups for music or home theater is to use absorptive material onroom surfaces between your listening position and your front speakers, and treat the back

    wall with diffusive material to re-distribute the reflections.

    If you're using conventional (non-

    dipole) surround speakers in a home

    theater system, you can achieve much

    of the diffuse sound of dipole speakersby treating your rear wall with diffusors

    and aiming your surrounds at them.

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    Locating Your Room's Reflective Trouble SpotsCongratulations. If you've made it this far, you're past the most technical information. You've

    learned how room reflections affect the sound of your stereo or home theater system. And you've

    learned how absorptive and/or diffusive materials can help control those reflections. Now the fun

    begins. You're going to learn how to locate your room's reflective trouble spots.

    At frequencies above 500Hz,

    sound waves bounce off

    reflective surfaces (like walls)as predictably as light bouncing

    off a mirror. In the above

    illustration, sound from a

    speaker is reflected off a side

    wall toward the listening

    position.

    Mirror, mirror on the wall...Along with standing waves, the reflections that distort sound the most are the loud reflections that

    bounce once off the side walls, ceiling and floor on the way to your listening/viewing spot. These

    strong reflections are called "early" reflections. Controlling the intensity of early reflections iscrucial to achieving optimum sound.

    So, how do you figure out exactly where these reflections are coming from?

    An easy, accurate way to locate the precise points of sound reflectivity on your walls, ceiling and

    floor is to use a mirror. You'll need a friend or family member to act as an assistant. While seated in

    the listening position have your assistant slide a small mirror (8" x 10" works well) along the left

    wall at the height of the tweeter. Your assistant should start across from the left speaker and move

    slowly toward the listening position. As the mirror is moved toward you along the wall, you will at

    some point see a reflection of the left speaker in the mirror. Mark the spot on the wall where the

    tweeter reflection appears with a piece of tape.

    As the mirror continues moving toward your listening position, you will next see a reflection of the

    right speaker. Mark the location of the right tweeter reflection spot on the wall with another piece oftape. Now repeat this procedure on the right wall to locate the corresponding two reflective

    positions there.

    Early sound reflections from the points you located are adding significantly to the sound you hear at

    your listening position. They cause some sounds to be canceled out while others are amplified,

    resulting in smeared stereo images.

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    If you can see it, you can hear it. Wherever you see

    your speaker reflected in the mirror, that's a point of

    reflection that should receive absorptive, or in some

    cases, diffusive acoustic treatment.

    The solution to this problem is to treat these points of reflectivity with some form of absorptive

    material. Panels made of 1" fiberglass or foam (polyurethane or melamine) installed on the walls do

    an excellent job of absorbing these reflections. Be sure to use enough absorptive material so that it

    extends at least 18" on either side of the marked locations. The material should also be at least as

    high as the tops of the speakers for best reflection control.

    If you refer back to the first page of this article, you'll see that sound reflections from your room's

    ceiling and floor can also contribute to sonic problems. Repeat the wall procedure on the ceiling.

    Have your assistant move the mirror along the imaginary lines on your ceiling that would connect

    each of your speakers to your listening position. You should be able to locate one reflective point on

    each line about midway between the speakers and the listening position. Mark each of these spots

    with a piece of tape. Apply absorptive material to the ceiling extending at least 12" on either side of

    each marked location.

    The floor between your listening spot and your speakers can also be a source of reflected sound. If

    your floor is carpeted, you needn't worry about floor reflections. But if the floor is a hard surface

    like hardwood, tile, or linoleum, use the mirror technique to find the points of reflectivity. Move the

    mirror along the imaginary lines connecting each speaker with your listening position. Again, you

    will be locating one point along each line roughly midway between the speaker and the listening

    position. An easy, good-looking way to treat floor reflections is to cover the points of reflectivity

    with a reasonably thick area rug.

    It may seem strange, but reflections from the wall behind your speakers also contribute to the sound

    you hear at your listening/viewing position (mostly frequencies below 500 Hz). Use the mirror

    technique again to find the point of reflectivity for each speaker on this wall and treat it with

    absorptive material. By using thicker material, or providing for an air space between the materialand the wall, you'll get improved low-frequency absorption.

    The wall behind your listening area may require treatment also, though if it's several feet away,

    reflections probably aren't a serious problem. This rear wall is the surface that would benefit most

    from diffusion products or a bookshelf.

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    Most people are more comfortable thinking about music as notes or

    tones, rather than frequencies. Middle "C" on a piano is 262 Hz. Low

    "E" on a bass guitar is 41 Hz. Cymbals can go out to 15,000 Hz.

    Summing upThe next time you sit down to watch or listen, think about the ways good and bad that your

    room may be affecting the overall sound of your system. Although some of the concepts discussed

    here may be difficult to wrap your brain around, a basic understanding of room acoustics (and

    speaker placement) can help you maximize the performance of any audio or home theater system.

    Also be on the lookout for "acoustics-savvy" products such as powered speakers with built-in bass

    equalization, and receivers and processors with DSP room correction.

    For more room acoustics information:

    The Master Handbook of Acoustics, Fourth Edition, by F. Alton Everest. A wide-ranging look at

    room acoustics, both in the home and the studio. Includes detailed explanations and some math, yet

    is very accessible. Complete with essential information for building or remodeling a listening room.

    Highly recommended. 592 pages.

    The Complete Guide to High-End Audio, Second Edition, by Robert Harley. 558 pages.

    Special thanks to RPG for their assistance. Their website is www.rpginc.com