rope wire - oclc
TRANSCRIPT
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N.Z. Logging Industry Research Association Inc.
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N.Z. Logging Industry Research Association Inc P.O. Box 147
ROTORUA New Zealand
WIRE ROPE SPLICING HANDBOOK
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N.Z. Logging hd•.1stry, Research Assn. Inc. P.O. Box 147 Rotorua '
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Prepared by: John W. Simpson N.Z. Logging Industry Research Association Inc
Photography by: H. G. Hiemcke- Hemming Forest Research Institute
Acknowledgement: LIRA acknowledges the assistance of Cookes Consolidated Services Limited in supplying the wire rope and fittings used in the preparation ofthis handbook.
MARCH 1984
HOLMES PRINTING - ROTORUA
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INTRODUCTION
SPLICING TOOLS
18" Purpose
made spike
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12" and 1 O" Spikes (made from drifts)
Two commonly used rope cutters are the hammer-blow and scissor type.
The purpose of this handbook is to illustrate effective methods of splicing wire rope and attaching fittings. In the interests of safety, it is essential that this work is carried out correctly.
This can only be achieved with practice, as it takes experience to learn how to handle the rope and marlin spike effectively.
Good, well maintained tools are required to join wire rope strands together in either an endless or eye splice. The tools illustrated are some of those that are commonly used in the logging industry for splicing ropes from 6mm- 32 mm.
Marlin spikes can either be purchased from rigging suppliers, or made to suit.
"Enerpac" impact Rope cutter
"Fe/co " C16 Rope cutter
GENERAL NOTES
The splices and attachments illustrated in this handbook are those that are commonly used in New Zealand logging operations. The wire ropes used were 180 grade 6 x 19 and 6 x 31 IWRC right hand ordinary lay.
Any form of splice creates a weakness in the rope through distortion so that the following points should be noted -
(1) Care should be taken to ensure that the wires in the rope strand are not distorted or damaged by the marlin spike.
(2) When the rope has a fibre core, it should be tucked into the body of the rope with the first strand, and then cut off where it emerges from the rope. A wire strand or independent wire rope core should be run up with the other strands for three tucks. It should not be cut out at the start of the splice.
(3) The distance between each of the first tucks and the point where they pass into the body of the rope should be as short as is practicable.
(4) The tension applied to all tucking strands, when pulling them in, should be as uniform as possible.
(5) After each set of strand tucks, a check should be made to ensure that they have all been pulled in as tight as possible.
(6) The tucking strands should emerge from the valleys of the main rope in their correct position so that the load applied to the rope through the splice will be applied evenly to all strands.
Wire rope attachments will only be effective if they are correctly fitted. Points to note are -
(1) Zinc metal ferrules will only give maximum efficiency when the rope has been thoroughly cleaned, and a suitable quality metal is heated to the correct temperature before pouring.
(2) Wedge sockets should be free from all burring and strand grooving between the wedge face and the body of the socket.
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EFFICIENCY OF SPLICES AND ATTACHMENTS
The efficiency or breaking strength of a splice or attachment is measured by its ability to hold the wire rope. If the rope breaks before the splice or attachment gives way, their efficiency is 100% of the wire rope's breaking strength.
The efficiencies shown in Table 1 should be treated as indicative only, as the strength of individual splices and attachments will vary according to the skill of the splicer, the size of the rope and its construction.
TABLE 1 - EFFICIENCY OF SPLICES AND ATTACHMENTS*
Type of Splice or Attachment
(1) Married eye -(a) 3 strands tucked 3 times, and 3 strands twice.
Core run up and tucked.
( b) Sa me as (a) but the core not tucked
( c) Strand ends not tucked
( d) Strand ends not tucked, but clamped to the body of the rope
(2) Logger's eye
(3) Butt splice**
(4) Cut splice
(5) Grommet -(a) 5 strand with the strand ends not tucked
(b) 6 strand with the strand ends tucked
(6) Zinc ferrule
(7) Swaged or pressed ferrule
(8) Wedge ferrule
(9) Rope clamps -(a) "U-bolt" type properly fitted
( b) "U- Bolt" type improperly fitted
* Ref 1 LIRA Cable Logging Handbook
Indicative Efficiency
(Percent)
87 - 92%
85 - 90%
35 - 40%
75 - 80%
87 - 97%
91 - 96%
87 - 95%
120 - 130%
150 - 160%
100%
100%
75 - 90%
80 - 85%
60- 75%
** Ref 2 G.S. Shields, "Wire Rope Splicing Methods", LIRA Technical Release, Vol.3 No.2 1981.
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THERE IS A BETTER WAY . ....
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
(1) Married Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
(2) Logger's Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
(3) Butt Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
(4) Cut Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
(5) Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
(6) Zinc Ferrules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
(7) Wedge Ferrules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
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The Married Eye is a simple eye splice which can be used where the loading on the rope is not excessive. Common uses are for tractor and skidder winch ropes and for strops.
The breaking strength ofthis splice with the strands tucked a minimum of three one side and two the
other, with the core tucked, is 87-92% of the rope's breaking strength.
STEP 1
Split the end of the rope in two lengthwise, by separating three adjacent strands and the core. Unravel the two to a length sufficient to form the size of eye required, then add 20-45 ems to that length to allow for tucking the strands (bigger rope will require a longer strand length for tucking).
STEP 2
Form the eye by bending the length of rope with the three strands and the core around, under and back over the other length. Align the halves so that where they cross at the base of the eye, the strands in each half of the rope will seat together.
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MARRIED EVE SPLICE
STEP 3
Marry the length of rope with the three strands, around the eye that has been formed with the three strands and the core.
STEP 4
Continue to marry the three strand length around the eye. To finish the eye the three strand end is taken up through the eye to lie on top of the body of the rope. The other end is taken down through the eye to lie underneath.
STEP 5
The eye is formed and ready for the strands to be tucked. To check that the eye is correct, the strand lengths should be on opposite sides of the base of the eye, and should lie at an angle to each
other.
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STEP 6
For the first strand tuck, the marlin spike goes under the three strand length, and under the top strand on the body of the rope.
Close-up of the base of the eye showing where the marlin spike is inserted for the first strand tuck.
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STEP 7
Roll the marlin spike back along the direction of the rope lay. The three strand length is pulled clear of the tip of the spike as it is rolled back.
STEP 8
Continue to roll the spike, in the direction of the rope lay, around to the back of the rope. This will open up the body of the rope for the tucking sequence. Unlaythe closest inside strand of the three strand length. Pull this strand back as shown to bend it slightly. This will allow the strand to seat better in the splice.
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STEP 9
Tuck the unlaid strand down through the hole next to the spike, and pull it through.
STEP 10
To complete the tuck, and tighten the strand in the splice, roll the spike back towards the eye, in the direction of the rope lay, then remove it.
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STEP 11
The first strand tuck is completed. For the second and third strands repeat Step 6 with the marlin spike under each successive top strand on the body of the rope, and roll the spike as illustrated in Step 7 and 8.
As shown in Step 8 and 9 the closest remaining inside strand is tucked down through the hole and pulled tight. Complete the tuck as shown in Step 10.
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STEP 12
The first three strands tucked once.
STEP 13
Turn the eye over and repeat Steps 6-11 for the first two strands.
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STEP 14
To tuck the last strand and the core, the spike goes under the third strand from the top of the body of the rope (this is the only strand at the top of the body of the rope that doesn't have a strand end tucked under it).
STEP 15
Separate the last strand and the core. Roll the spike towards the eye, and pull the core behind the spike. The strand stays on top of the spike.
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STEP 16
Roll the spike away from the eye along the direction of the rope lay, keeping the core behind the spike. If the core is held tight as the spike is rolled, it will roll into the body of the rope. Tuck the last strand as illustrated in Step 9 and 10.
STEP 17
Three strands tucked one side, and three strands and the core tucked on the other side.
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STEP 18
For the next tucking sequence, the spike goes under the top strand on the body of the rope. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 with the spike and tuck the closest strand to the eye, as illustrated in Steps 9 and 10. Repeat this step for all three strands.
STEP 19
Three strands t ucked once, t hree strands tucked twice.
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STEP 20
Turn the eye over and repeat Step 18 for the first two strands.
STEP 21
To tuck the third strand and the core, the spike goes between the core and the strand to be tucked and under the top strand on the body of the rope.
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STEP 22
The core will roll into the body of the rope as the spike is rolled and the strand is tucked as illustrated in Steps 9 and 10.
STEP 23
Continue the tucking sequence with the spike under the top strand on the body of the rope, and tuck the closest strand to the eye.
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STEP 24
Continue the tucking sequence in Steps 20 - 23 for a minimum of two tucks one side and three on the other.
Completed eye with the strand tails cut off. Having all six strands and the core tucked, and ending on one side, makes a neater eye which has less resistance when riding over a fairlead through rings,
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The Logger's Eye is a relatively simple eye splice which is commonly used in logging operations. It is particularly suited to cable operations as it has a high breaking strength through the individual strands being locked into the splice.
If spliced correctly with each strand and the core tucked three times, the breaking strength will be 87-97% of the original rope's breaking strength.
STEP 1
Spike or nail the rope to a stump, making sure that the eye is the size required and the free end is long enough for the tucking sequence.
STEP 2
Start the splice as close to the stump as is possible. Drive the marlin spike from the free end of the rope under two adjacent strands on the body. Roll the spike with the lay, to open up the body of the rope for the tucking sequence. For the first tuck, select a strand from the free end that is about two strand widths closer to the stump than the spike. Unravel this strand to the outside of the free end.
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LOGGER'S EYE SPLICE
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STEP 3
Tuck the strand through the opening that the spike has made and pull it through.
STEP 4
Hold the strand tight, and roll the spike back with the direction of the rope lay. Keep the strand in front of the spike as it is rolled so that the spike pushes the strand towards the eye, as far as it will go.
STEP 5
For the second strand tuck, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand further down the body of the rope from the first tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands.
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STEP 6
Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope. Un lay the next outer strand of the free end, and tuck it through the opening that the spike has made.
STEP 7
Pull the strand through. Hold it tight and roll the spike back with the direction of the rope lay. Keep the strand in front of the spike so that the spike pushes the strand towards the eye, as far as it wiU go.
STEP 8
Repeat Steps 5-7 for the next two strands - the first four strands tucked once.
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STEP 9
To tuck the first strand for the second time, the spike is driven from the opposite direction, two strands further down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands.
STEP 10
Roll the spike with the lay, keeping the unravelled free end of the rope on top of the spike. Pull the first tucked strand back under, and up against the bottom of the splice. This will bend the strand slightly so that it will lay in better and make a tight splice. Tuck the strand end back through the opening that the spike has made.
STEP 11
Pull the strand through, making sure that the unravelled free end of the rope is out of the way.
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STEP 12
Roll the spike back with the lay of the rope, to tighten the strand in the splice.
STEP 13
To tuck the first strand for the third and last time, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand further down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands on the body of the rope. Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope.
STEP 14
Tuck the strand down through the opening made by the spike and pull it through. Hold the strand tight and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice. To avoid any confusion, this strand can be cut off as close to the body of the rope as possible.
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STEP 15
To tuck the fifth strand, start the spike in the same position as at the end of Step 14, and roll it with the lay to open up the body of the rope. Unlay the next outer strand of the free end of the rope.
STEP 16
Tuck the strand down through the opening made by the spike, and pull it through. Hold the strand tight and roll the spike back with the lay which will force it up tight against the completed third tuck of the first strand.
STEP 17
To tuck the second strand for the second time the spike is driven in the opposite direction, two strands further down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands.
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STEP 18
Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope. Pull the second strand back under, and up against the bottom of the splice to bend it slightly. Tuck it down through the opening made by the spike.
STEP 19
Pull the strand through, and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 20
To tuck the second strand for the third and last time, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand further down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands. Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope.
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STEP 21
Tuck the strand down through the opening that the spike has made in the body of the rope.
STEP 22
Pull the strand through, and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice. Do not remove the spike when the tuck is completed - the second strand tucked for the third and final time. To avoid any confusion, this strand can be cut off as close to the body of the rope as possible.
STEP 23
To tuck the last strand, start the spike in the same position as at the end of Step 22, and roll it with the lay to open up the body of the rope. Unravel the last strand from the core.
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STEP 24
Tuck the last strand down through , the opening that the spike has made in the body of the rope.
STEP 25
Pull the strand through, hold it tight, and roll the spike back along the lay to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 26
For the second tuck of the third strand, repeat Step 17. Pull the third strand back under and up against the bottom of the splice to bend it slightly, and tuck it back through the opening made by the spike.
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STEP 27
Pu l l the strand through, hold it tight, and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 28
To complete the third tuck of the third strand, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands.
STEP 29
Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope, and tuck the strand down through the opening that the spike has made.
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STEP 30
Pull the strand through and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice. To avoid any confusion, this strand can be cut off as close to the body of the rope as possible.
STEP 31
To tuck the core, start the spike in the same position as at the end of Step 30, and roll it with the lay to open up the body of the rope.
STEP 32
Tuck the core down through the
opening that the spike has made.
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STEP 33
Pull the core through, hold it tight, and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten the core against the third tuck of the third strand.
STEP 34
For the second tuck of the fourth strand, the spike is driven from the opposite direction, two strands down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands. Roll the spike with the lay, bend the strand back under the splice and tuck it back through the opening.
STEP 35
Pull the strand through, hold it tight, and roll the spike back with the lay.
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STEP 36
For the third tuck of the fourth strand, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand down the body of the rope from the last tuck and under the next two adjacen.Jt strands. Roll the spike with the lay, and tuck the strand down through the opening.
STEP 37
Pull the strand through and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 38
For the second tuck of the fifth strand, repeat Step 1 7 with the spike. The fifth strand is protruding from the body of the rope in the same place as t he th ird tuck of the first strand. Bend the f if t h stran d back under and th ro ugh the openi ng in the body of the rope that the spike has made. Pull the strand through and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice.
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STEP 39
For the third and last tuck of the fifth strand, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand down t he body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands. Roll the spike with the lay, and tuck the strand down through the opening.
STEP 40
Roll the spike back with the lay, keeping some tension on the strand to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 41
For the second tuck of the sixth strand, repeat Step 1 7 with the spike. The sixth strand is protruding from the body of the rope in the same place as the third tuck of the second strand. Bend the sixth strand back under and through the opening in the body of the rope t hat the spike has made.
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STEP 42
Pull the strand through and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 43
For the third and last tuck of the sixth strand, the spike is driven from the free end side, one strand down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands. Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope.
STEP 44
Tuck the sixth strand through the opening, pull it through, and roll the spike back with the lay to tighten it in the splice.
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STEP 45
To tuck the core a second time the spike is driven in the opposite direction, two strands down the body of the rope from the last tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands. Roll the spike with the lay, pull the core back under the splice and tuck it back through the opening.
STEP 46
Pull the-co-re through, hold it under tension, and roll the spike back with the lay of the rope.
STEP 47
For the third and final tuck of the core, the spike is driven one strand aown the -Body of the r6pe from the last tuck, and under the next two adjace-nt - strands. Roll - the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope and tuck the core through.
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STEP 48
To complete the splice, pull the core through, hold it under tension and roll the spike back with the lay. Cut all the strand ends off as close to the body of the rope as possible.
The completed Logger's Eye with all strands and the core tucked three times. When tension is put on the eye the strands will pull in to give a neat, flat splice which has little resistance when riding over a fairlead or through a block. The strength of the splice is obtained through each of the strands being locked into and against each other.
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The butt splice is used to join two ropes of the same diameter, construction and lay. It is commonly used in cable logging operations to join a broken main or tail rope and is an approved alternative to the long splice. Despite the increase in rope diameter at the splice, it will pass through and around sheaves readily. If spliced correctly, it has a breaking strength of 91-96% ofthe rope's breaking strength.
STEP 1
Tie the two ropes together so that each end overlaps the tie point by approximately one metre. The splice is started from the tie point, so this should be as tight as possible to avoid excessive movement of the rope which would contribute to a loose splice.
STEP 2
For the first tuck, select the strand on the main body of the rope that is adjacent to the base of the free end. The marlin spike goes under this strand and is rolled with the lay, to open up the body of the rope. From the free end of the rope unlay the outside strand, and tuck it through the opening that the spike has made.
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BUTT SPLICE
STEP 3
Pull the strand through. To complete the tuck and tighten the strand in the splice, roll the spike back with the lay of the rope, keeping the strand under the spike.
STEP4
Continue to roll the spike back, with the strand underneath, to force it as close to the base of the splice as possible.
STEP 5
For the second strand tuck, pick up the same strand on the body of the rope that the first strand is tucked under and t he strand immediately above it. Roll the spike w ith the lay to open up the body of the rope. Unlay the next outer strand of the free end and tuck it through the opening that the spike has made.
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STEP 6
Pull the strand through and roll the spike back along the lay to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 7
For the third strand tuck, pick up the first two strands on the body of the rope that have the first and second strands from the free end tucked under them, and the strand immediately above them.
STEP 8
Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope. Un lay the next outer strand of the free end and tuck it through the opening that the spike has made.
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STEP 9
Pull the strand through and roll the spike back along the lay, with the strand underneath, to both tighten it in the splice, and force it as close to the eye as possible.
Back view of the splice showing the first three tucked strands and their exit points from the body of the rope.
STEP 10
For the fourth strand tuck, pick up t he next two top strands on the body of t he ro pe. Rol l the sp ike with t he lay to open up th e body of the rope, and unlay the next outer strand of the free end. Tuck it through the opening that the spike has made. Follow Steps 3 and 4 to tighten the strand in the splice.
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STEP 11
For the fifth strand tuck, the marlin spike goes under the top strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 12
Roll the spike with the lay to open up the body of the rope. Un lay the next outer strand of the free end and tuck it through the opening that the spike has made.
STEP 13
Roll the spike back along the lay of the rope to tighten the strand in the splice and force it as close to the base of the splice as possible.
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STEP 14
Without removing the spike, roll it with the lay of the rope around to the back of the rope for the second tuck of the fifth strand.
STEP 15
Tuck the strand through the opening made by the spike and pull it through.
STEP 16
Roll the spike back along the lay of the rope to tighten the strand in the splice- first four strands tucked once, the fifth strand tucked twice.
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STEP 17
To tuck the core, the spike goes under the next two top strands on the body of the rope.
STEP 18
Separate the last strand from the core. Roll the spike forward, and pull the core behind the spike leaving the strand on the other side.
STEP 19
Roll the spike with the lay of the rope, keeping the core behind it. If the core is held tight as the spike is rolled, it will roll into the body of the rope.
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The first four strands tucked once, the fifth strand tucked twice, and the core rolled up into the body of the rope.
STEP 20
For the second tucking sequence, the spike goes over the top of the lowest tucked strand, and under the adjacent strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 21
Roll the spike with the lay, around to the back of the rope, and tuck the lowest previously tucked strand through the opening that the spike has made.
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STEP 22
Pull the strand through, and roll the spike forward with the lay of the rope to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 23
For the next tuck, the spike goes over the top of the lowest tucked strand and under the adjacent strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 24
Roll the spike with the lay around the body of the rope, and tuck the lowest previously tucked strand through the opening that the spike has made.
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STEP 25
Pull the strand through, and roll the spike forward with the lay of the rope, to tighten it in the splice.
Repeat the sequence in Steps 23-25 for the next two strands - one strand not tucked, five strands tucked twice and th.e core run up.
STEP 26
To tuck the sixth and last strand of the free end, the spike goes under the bottom strand on the body of the rope, which is the only strand at the base of the splice without a strand tucked under it.
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STEP 27
Roll the spike, with the lay, around to the back of the rope and tuck the strand through the opening the spike has made.
STEP 28
Roll the spike forward with the lay of the rope, keeping the strand under the spike, to tighten it in the splice.
STEP 29
Without removing the spike, roll it with the lay around to the back of the rope for the second tuck of the sixth strand. Tuck it through the opening made by the spike.
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STEP 30
Pull the strand through and roll the spike forward with the lay of the rope keeping it under the spike -all six strands tucked twice.
STEP 31
To finish tucking the core, the spike goes between the core and the top tucked strand and under the adjacent strand on the body of the rope. Cut the core off as close as possible to the body of the rope.
STEP 32
Roll the spike with the lay of the rope, keeping the spike on top of the core so that the core end will roll into the body of the rope.
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STEP 33
For the next tucking sequence, the spike goes over the top of the lowest tucked strand and under the adjacent strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 34
Roll the spike with the lay around to the back of the rope and tuck the lowest previously tucked strand through the opening the spike has made.
STEP 35
Pull the strand through and roll the spike forward with the strand under the spike.
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STEP 36
Without removing the spike, roll it around to the front of the rope to open it up for another tuck of the same strand. Tuck the strand end through the opening made by the spike.
STEP 37
Pull the strand through and roll the spike forward, with the lay, and on top of the strand, to tighten it in the splice.
Continue the sequence in Steps 33-37 for the third and fourth tuck of all strands.
STEP 38
The tucking sequence is completed by locking each alternate strand. For the first locking tuck, the spike is driven against the lay, one strand up from the lowest tuck, and under the next two adjacent strands.
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STEP 39
Roll the spike, with the lay, around to the back of the rope. Pull the lowest strand around to the back of the splice, and tuck it back through the opening at the spike.
STEP 40
Roll the spike back with the lay to tighten the strand in the splice.
STEP 41
For the second and third lock tucks, drive the spike, against the lay, under the two strands immediately above the previously locked tuck. Repeat Steps 39 and 40 for the tucking sequence.
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STEP 42
To start the tucking sequence for the second half of the splice, the spike goes under the lowest strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 43
Roll the spike, with the lay, around to the back of the rope. Un lay the strand from the free end that is closest to the inside base of the splice.
STEP 44
Tuck this strand through the opening at the spike, pull it through, and roll the spike forward on top of the strand.
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STEP 45
Without removing the spike, roll it around to the back of the rope to open it up for the second tuck of the first strand. Tuck the strand end through the opening.
STEP 46
Pull the strand through and roll the spike back along the lay to tighten it in the splice. Repeat Steps 42-46 for the next strand.
STEP 47
To tuck the core, the spike goes under the next two bottom strands on the body of the rope. Separate the core from the free end of the rope. Roll the spike forward and pull the core behind it.
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STEP 48
Roll the spike with the lay of the rope keeping the core behind it. If the core is held tight as the spike is rolled, it will roll into the body of the rope.
STEP 49
Run the core up the rope then cut it off as close to the body of the rope as possible. Continue to roll the spike up the rope to roll in the end of the core.
STEP 50
Repeat Steps 42-46 for the remaining four strands.
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STEP 51
All six strands tucked twice, and the core rolled up into the body of the rope. To complete the second half of the splice, repeat Steps 33-41. To finish the splice, cut the strand ends off as close to the body of the rope as possible.
Completed butt splice with the strands in each half of the splice tucked four times. The fifth tuck of alternate strands is against the lay of the rope which effectively locks the strands into the splice. Although larger in diameter than the original rope the splice will pass over and through sheaves readily, has an acceptable breaking strength, and can be put in safely by a relatively inexperienced person.
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The cut splice is used in cable logging operations to join two ropes of the same diameter, construction and lay. It should only be used to join non-load bearing ropes or as a temporary splice in load bearing ropes. If spliced correctly, it has a breaking strength of 87-95% ofthe rope's breaking strength, but will wear rapidly when subjected to the continuous tightening and slackening that occurs when the splice is run through sheaves.
STEP 1
Split each end of the rope in two lengthwise, by separating three adjacent strands and the core. Unravel both ends to a length sufficient to form the splice. Allow an extra 20-45 ems on each end for tucking the strands.
STEP 2
Form the splice be aligning the strands in each end of the rope, so that where they cross, they will seat together. (The strand ends from both end of the rope must be of equal length in the eye that is formed). The three strand length from each end of the rope goes under the three strand and core length from the other end.
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CUT SPLICE
STEP 3
Reform one half of the eye by marrying the three strand length around the three strands and core.
STEP4
One half of the eye has been formed. The strand lengths at each end of the completed section should be on opposite sides of the body of the rope. Reform the other half of the eye as illustrated in Step 3. The two halves of the eye should be of equal length.
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STEP 5
The splice is formed and ready for the strands to be tucked. To check that it has been formed correctly, the free ends of the rope, at both ends of the splice, should be on opposite sides of the body of the rope, and at an angle to each other.
STEP 6
For the first strand tuck, the marlin spike goes under the three strand and core length, and under the top strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 7
Roll the spike back along the direction of the rope lay. Continue to roll the spike around to the back of the rope. This will open up the body of the rope for the tucking sequence. Un lay the closest inside strand of the three strand and core length.
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STEPS
Tuck the unlaid strand down through the opening that the spike has made and pull it through.
STEP 9
To complete the tuck, and tighten the strand in the splice, roll the spike towards the eye, over the top of the tucked strand, then remove it.
STEP 10
The first strand tuck is completed. For the second strand, repeat Step 6 with the spike under the next top strand on the body of the rope.
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STEP 11
Roll the spike back to open up the body of the rope and tuck the closest inside strand of the three strand and core length down through the opening. To tighten the strand in the splice, repeat Step 9.
STEP 12
To tuck the third strand and the core, the spike goes under the next top strand on the body of the rope. Separate the strand from the core, and roll the spike towards the eye.
STEP 13
Pull the core behind the spike, leaving the strand on top. Roll the spike back with the lay of the rope, keeping the core behind it. If the core is held tight behind the spike as it is rolled, it will roll into the body of the rope. Tuck the strand as shown in Step 11.
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STEP 14
The first three strands and the core tucked once.
STEP 15
Turn the splice over and repeat Steps 6-9 for all three strands.
STEP 16
Three strands and the core tucked one side, and three sides tucked on the other. For the next tucking sequence, the spike goes under the top strand on the body of the rope. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 with the spike and tuck the closest inside strand as St_eps 8 and 9 illustrate. Repeat this sequence for the first two strands.
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STEP 17
To tuck the last strand and the core, the spike goes between the strand and the core, and under the top strand on the body of the rope.
STEP 18
Roll the spike back with the lay of the rope, keeping the core behind the spike so that it will roll into the body of the rope.
STEP 19
Tuck the last strand down through the opening made by the spike. Pull it through, then roll the spike forward to tighten the strand in the splice- three strands tucked once, three strands and the core tucked twice.
STEP 20
Roll the splice over for the next tucking sequence. The spike goes under the top strand on the body of the rope. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 with the spike and tuck the closest strand. Repeat the sequence for al I strands and the core. Continue the sequence for a minimum of two tucks one side, and three on the other. To complete the splice, repeat Steps 6-20 for the other end.
The completed splice with the strand tails cut off. If the splice has been correctly formed, the halves of the eye will cross over, and roll around each other, which allows the splice to pass through a block. The distance between each of the splices should be as short as practical as it can be difficult to maintain equal tension on each side.
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A grommet is a single strand of a wire rope which is wrapped with the lay of the rope to form a circle. It is used in cable logging operations as a temporary link to join two ropes together, so that the join will pass through a block.
The breaking strength of a grommet with six full wraps and both ends tucked is 1 50-1 60% of the rope from which the strand was taken.
STEP 1
A single strand of a wire rope is used. The length required will vary according to the strand diameter and the circumference of the grommet but will usually be between 3 and 5 metres in length.
STEP2
Cross one end of the strand right over left to make the circle required. The dead end of the strand should be no more than 20 ems long.
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GROMMET
STEP 2A
Wrong way- the strand has been crossed left over right. Note how it does not marry together.
STEP 3
Continue to lay the live end of the strand around the circle and with the lay of the rope. The live end of the strand is always on top of the dead end.
STEP 3A
Wrong way - the live end of the strand is under the dead end.
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~ ( J
/
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_)
STEP4
Five full wraps and the circle appears to be full, but is not yet complete.
STEP 5
Continue to lay the live end of the strand around the circle to form the sixth wrap.
STEP 6
The sixth wrap will not lay into the circle unless it is hammered in. Bend the strand ends around the grommet and cut them back to an equal length, so that they will not touch when they are rolled in.
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STEP 7
Split the six strands equally between the 3 rd and 4th wrap from the dead end of the strand.
STEP 8
The dead end of the strand is crossed over the live strand and tucked back through the opening made by the spike.
STEP 9
Pull the strand through. To roll the strand into the grommet, it should be on top of the spike which is rolled with the lay of the rope away from the live end.
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(
STEP 10
To tuck the live end, the grommet is split between the 3rd and 4th wrap from the live strand end.
·) STEP 11
)
The live end is crossed over the tucked dead end, taken down through the opening next to the spike and pulled tight.
STEP 12
The strand is rolled into the grommet as the spike is rolled in the direction of rope lay, away from the dead end.
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The completed grommet with six full wraps, both ends tucked, and rolled in.
A grommet can be used as a temporary link to join two eyes, from within the eyes by following Steps 1-12.
Completed grommet joining two eyes.
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-/
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/
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The most commonly used wire rope socket in the logging industry is the ferrule. Its usual and most common use is as a terminal fitting for the skyline, mainline and tailrope for haulers, tractors and skidder winch ropes and strops.
The strength of a socketed fitting depends on the effectivenss of the bond between the rope's wires, the socket metal and the ferrule. If the socketing is done correctly, the ferrule will withstand the breaking load of the wire rope.
STEP 1
Slip the ferrule over the rope, then place a temporary seizing around the rope about three ferrule lengths from the end. This will prevent any untwisting of the strands which would result in unequal tension on the strands when the ferrule is attached. Unlay the strands from around the
) core.
STEP 2
Each strand has been unlaid from around the core. If the rope has a wire or steel strand core this must also be unlaid. If the rope has a hemp core, cut it out to a length slightly longer than the ferrule that is used. The seizing will also prevent the strands from being unlaid any further than necessary.
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ZINC FERRULES
STEP 3
Separate the individual wires in each strand and the core, by untwisting them against the lay of the rope. The wires should be separated to double the length of the ferrule, and spread out evenly. The ends are then "broomed" out, but should not be straightened.
STEP 4
Thoroughly clean the ends of the wire with either petrol, mineral turpentine or a solvent. A detergent fluid can be used to remove the bulk of the rope lubricant, but the final cleaning requires a spirit to remove any trace of an oil film on the wires. The rope end should be held over the cleaning fluid container, while the wires are brush cleaned.
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STEP 5
After the wires have been cleaned, reform the individual wires back into the strand by twisting them in the direction of the rope lay. The core wires must also be reformed. The wires in each strand and the core should be reformed to within a ferrule length of the end of the rope.
STEP 6
Remove the seizing and relay the strands back around the core to within a ferrule length of the end of the rope.
STEP 7
Drive the ferrule to the end of the rope, making sure that it is in line with the axis of the rope, and the ends of the wires are flush with the top of the ferrule. Seal the base of the ferrule with clay, putty or asbestos rope to prevent any leakage of metal from the base of the ferrule. Before pouring the socket metal, sprinkle sal-ammoniac into the ferrule. This acts as both a flux and a further cleansing agent.
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STEPS
Use high grade pure zinc for the socket metal. Do not use babbitt metal as it will not hold properly, unless the ends of the wires are bent over.
Preheat the ferrule with either a gas flame or blow torch to about 90°C. This will remove any remaining moisture and will prevent the molten zinc from congealing before it has completely filled the base of the ferrule.
The zinc should be heated to a temperature of 440°C-480°C. At the correct temperature a dry pine stick when dipped in the zinc and withdrawn, will be slightly discoloured by scorching and no zinc will adhere to it. If the stick is charred the zinc is too hot. Pouring of the metal should be continuous and uniform, filling the ferrule slightly above the top to allow for the shrinkage that occurs as the metal cools.
Allow the ferrule to cool naturally then re-lubricate the rope at the base of the ferrule with grease. If the socketing has been carried out correctly, the wire rope will break before it will pull out of the ferrule.
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Wedge type ferrules can be used to either make up or repair broken strops in the field. They are suitable for use with most ground based equipment, but are not recommended for cable operations.
The breaking strength of a strop with a wedge ferrule is 75-90% of the rope's breaking strength.
STEP 1
Slip the ferrule over the rope, then unlay the strands for about 5 ems. Position the wedge over the core. If the rope has a fibre core, unlay the strands and cut out the core to the length of the ferrule.
STEP 2
Relay the strands around the wedge, with each in an individual groove.
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WEDGE FERRULES
STEP 3
Slide the ferrule back towards the wedge as far as it will go. Hold the wedge with vise grips or pliers, and turn it clockwise about% turn, or until the rope strands snap into the grooves in the wedge. The strands should be about 1 cm above the top of the ferrule.
STEP4
Drive the wedge into the ferrule with a hammer and short pipe that fits over the core and inside the strands.
Completed ferrule. The wedge should be about 5 mm below the end of the strands, as the strands will slip slightly until they grip the wedge.
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SHORT LONG SPLICE
INTRODUCTION
The Short Long Splice is used to join two lines of the same rope diametre, construction and lay. It maintains 9 5 % of the original rope strength with no
rope diametre increase thus enabling it to pass through sheaves without
binding. The Short Long Splice provides the contractor with an approved splice
for skyline, main and tail rope repairs.
An inexperienced splicer may have trouble deciding how much line to use in a Short Long Splice. The two ends of rope need to overlap a minimum distance .
This is determined by the length that the ends have to be married together.
Split the two ends in half and unravel them an equal distance. Unravel and lay in
each set of three strands joining the two ends together making one body of
rope, dropping a strand at regular intervals to be tucked.
Mark the tucking points onto the rope prior to performing the splice, use this rule: 13mm rope allow 90cm between each tuck and add 30cm for each rope diametre increase, (refer to this rule in step 1).
There are six pairs of strands to be tucked into the body of the rope. For 13mm rope leave a length of approximately 60cm and increase this length 1 Ocm for every rope diameter increase, to a maximum length of 1 metre, (refer to this rule in steps 8 - 16). It is better to leave them too long and trim them off later.
IMPORTANT NOTES TO REMEMBER
Do not cut off any strands until you are certain they are waste ends.
Two persons are required, the extra person is needed to help unravel the
strands.
Work standing from the same side of the rope unless instructed to change.
On completion of each step check and make ~djustments to the layout of rope or strands so they are exactly as in the picture.
STEP 1
Measure the required distance from
each end of the rope that will be unravelled and mark, use spray paint
or chalk. Continue along the body of
the rope marking at required intervals the tucking points.
Use this guide to premark rope
indicating tucking points. Refer to introduction for different rope diameters.
A B
90---90
I I -~;;;3 ·; M;=i ,;;;;
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c
EXAMPLE = 13MM ROPE SCALE= CM A.B.C .D.E.F. = TUCKING POINTS
45 ........... ____ 285------... ·I I I
,,,_,,,,_,----~------"""'--~""------------~"""" ~""' ,..,...,~~~
I I
~.""" ~~~, ....... ~""~1 ....... ~ ...... ~~>»
I I
I I
l"•i--- --- 285--------:45 90~~-90--~6oJ I
STEP 2
Split the two ends of rope in two lengthwise , by seperating three
adjacent strands and the core to the required length, (first paint mark).
I I
D E F
)
STEP 3
Trim off the unravelled three + core strands from the left section of rope.
STEP 4
Lay the two sets of ropes together.
Study this picture before proceeding
with step five. The unravelled ends
must be placed exactly as in this picture.
STEP 5
Marry the two ropes together by
unravelling the remaining length of the
three + core short strands and at the
same time replacing them with the
long length of three + core strands.
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. ---
STEP 6
Unravel both cores. Position cores as shown.
STEP 7
Continue marrying the three strands on from right to left as in step 5 to the
next paint/chalk mark, leaving the core behind.
STEP 8
Pick the back short strand, unravel it
from the other two strands. This
strand will remain at this point to be tucked later.
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STEP 9
Pick the back strand from the other
three strands, measure up the length
of this strand allowing enough length
for it to be tucked. Check you have the correct strand, (refer to lengths of
strands to be tucked in introduction).
STEP 10
Cut the strand at the desired length
and unravel it from the other two
strands. Remove the waste end.
STEP 11
Cross the two singular strands. (Study
this picture carefully, check your splice is exactly as shown).
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STEP 12
Continue ravelling the remaining two strands onto the main body of rope from right to left until the next (chalk/paint mark) tucking point. Cut
off excess length from the two
strands being unravelled leaving the desired length, (60cm for 13mm rope).
STEP 13
Unravel the two short strands that you just trimmed. The right strand (back
strand) will remain at this point to be tucked.
STEP 14
Pick the opposite strand from the
strands being ravelled on. Measure the required length, allowing enough
length for tucking and cut off the excess length from the one strand.
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STEP 15
Unravel the trimmed strand and cross it over with its opposite strand.
STEP 16
Continue to ravel the remaining strand along the body of the rope until the next tucking point. Cross the two
strands over, cut off the excess length. Leave enough length so the
strands can be tucked. NOTE: This has completed the marrying procedure for the first half of the splice. Strand on the opposite side of the rope, start step 1 7 from the centre of the splice.
STEP 17
Repeat Steps 7 - 16 (when repeating step 7 the three strands being
unravelled are longer this time so trim
the excess length off before starting
to unravel. After repeating steps 7 -16 the splice will look like this.
+
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NOTE: The two protruding core ends need to be trimmed and rolled into the
body of the rope, (see step 18).
STEP 18
Tr.im the excess length from one core.
STEP 19
Using your spike, roll the remaining
short length of core into the body of rope.
STEP 20
Mark the long length of core with
chalk exactly where it meets the end
of the <;>ther core in the body of the rope.
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STEP 21
Trim the core at the chalk mark.
STEP 22
Using your spike roll the protruding
end of the core into the body of the
rope. Be careful not to fray the end of the core, it can make it more difficult to roll in neatly. NOTE: The marrying of strands is complete.
There are six points along the length of the splice where two strands need
to be tucked three times each. ) Any six pairs of strands can be tucked
in any order.
_)
Before commencing the tucking
sequence check that each pair of
strands is crossed like this;
not like this.
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, ......... - - ~ · .;;:: ·-. -
NOTE: Each strand will be tucked against the lay, over one, under two, over one, under two, over one and
the final tuck will be under three strands.
STEP 23
Miss one strand. Drive the spike under
two strands, be careful not to damage
the core with the spike.
STEP 24
Push the lose strand through the hole created, to the left of the spike.
STEP 25
Pull the strand through as tight as
possible before removing the spike.
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STEP 26
To help manipulate the strand through as tight as possible hammer the
exposed portion of the strand with the
head of your spike while pulling on the end of the strand.
Continue tucking the strand once more as in steps 23 - 26.
STEP 28
Repeat steps 23 - 26 except drive the
spike under 3 strands, so the strand in
the final tuck will be under three strands.
· STEP 29
Cut excess length from the strand leaving not less than 50mm. The
tucking . sequence· is complete for the first strand.
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STEP 30
Repeat steps 23 - 29 for the remaining eleven strands.
NOTE: The completed splice will have 6 pairs of strands tucked into the main body of rope, with equal spacings
between each pair.
(This picture shows one pair only).
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