rough guide directions athens

Athens

W R I T T E N A N D R E S E A R C H E D B Y

John Fisher and

Paul Hellander

DIRECTIONS

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ContentsIntroduction 4

Ideas 9The big six ......................................10Acropolis ..........................................12Classical Athens ..............................14 Roman Athens..................................16Byzantine Athens..............................18National Archeological Museum ......20Cultural museums ............................22Modern Athens ................................24Hills and views ................................26Green Athens....................................28Restaurants and tavernas ................30Cafs and bars ................................32Music and entertainment..................34Nightlife ..........................................36Markets and shopping......................38Orthodox Athens ..............................40Athens on foot..................................42Seaside Athens and

island escapes ..............................44Out of Athens ..................................46

Places 49The Acropolis ..................................51Plka................................................61Monastirki and Psyrr......................70Thisso, Gzi and no Petrlona........80Plata Omnias and around ..............88The Archeological Museum,

Exrhia and Nepoli ......................95

Kolonki & Lykavits Hill ................102Skndagma and around ..................112Mets, Pangrti and Koukki ............117 Suburban Athens............................123Attica ............................................133Further Afield ................................140

Accommodation 153Hotels ............................................155Hostels ..........................................162Campsites ......................................162

Essentials 163Arrival ............................................165City transport ................................166Information ....................................168Directory ........................................169

Language 173Basics ............................................175Menu reader ..................................180

Index 183

Colour MapsAthensCentral AthensAthens Metro

3

Con ten t s I n t r oduc t i on

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Introduction to

AthensIn most minds, Athens is a city that happened two-and-a-half thousand years ago, and its true thateven now that past looms large literally, in theshape of the mighty Acropolis that dominates almostevery view, as well as in every visitors itinerary. YetAthens is also home to over four million people, morethan a third of the Greek population and is verymuch a city for the twenty-first century, one that hastransformed itself for the 2004 Olympics.

Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to theend of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over40C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can beoverpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May toearly June, September and October temperatures arepleasant (20C and upwards), and visitors fewer. InApril you can also see lovely displays of spring flowerson the surrounding mountains. The winter months canbe very cold, and February is often rainy.

When to visit

For many, the stunningremains of the ancientClassical Greek city are thehighlight of any visit.TheNational ArcheologicalMuseum has the finest col-lection of Greek antiquitiesin the world, and there areplenty of smaller specialistmuseums. Even on a briefvisit, however, it is a shameto see Athens purely as the

repository of ancient sitesand museum pieces. Itsworth taking the time toexplore some of the citys


neighbourhoods: in partic-ular, the old nineteenth-century quarter of Plkahas a delightful mix ofTurkish, Neoclassical andGreek island-style architec-ture and intriguing littlemuseums devoted to tradi-tional arts, from ceramicsto musical instruments.Here youll also encounterscattered relics of theByzantine and medievaltown that captivated Byronand the Romantics. Just tothe north of Plka, thebazaar area around Athinsand Elou retains analmost Middle Easternatmosphere, while theNational Gardens and ele-gant Kolonki offer respitefrom the bustling city. Stillwell within the limits ofGreater Athens are thepeaceful monasteries ofKessarian and Dhafn, thelatter with Byzantinemosaics the equal of any inGreece.

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There are spectacularbirds-eye views from thecentral hills of Lykavitsand Filopppou, whilemore adventurous walkerscan head for the moun-tains that ring the city.Springtime hikes herereveal the astonishingrange of Greek wild flow-ers especially on the vast,largely unspoilt slopes ofMount Prnitha.

Outside the city itselfyoull find more ancientsites, while sun-worship-pers flock to the suburbanbeach resorts.Theres thechance to escape to theislands, too, several ofwhich can be reached fromthe busy port of Pires injust a couple of hours.

For some, however, thebiggest surprise in Athens isthe vibrant life of the cityitself. Cafs are packed dayand night, and the streetsstay lively until 3 or 4am,with some of the best bars

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and clubs inthe country.Eating out isgreat, withestablishmentsranging fromlively tavernasto the finestgourmetrestaurants. Insummermuch of theaction takesplace out-doors, com-plemented byopen-airfilms, concertsand classicaldrama.Theextraordinari-ly diverseshoppingscene rangesfrom colour-ful bazaars and lively streetmarkets to chic shoppingmalls filled with the latestdesigner goods.And with agood-value public transport

system particularly thenewly expanded metro youll have no difficultygetting around.

6

Neoclassical statue


ATHENS AT A GLANCE

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The National ArcheologicalMuseumBy far the most important mus-eum in Athens, the NationalArcheological Museum houses theworlds greatest collection ofCycladic, Minoan, Mycenaean andClassical Greek art.

Kolonki For fashionable shopping,Kolonki is the citys most chiccentral district. Should you tire ofhunting for the latest designergear, youll find some great pave-ment cafs and restaurants orcome here at night for the barsand buzzing live music venues.

The AcropolisThe Acropolis remains the citysbiggest attraction. Dominating itssouthern slope is the restoredsecond-century Roman HerodesAtticus Theatre, a spectacular set-ting for performances of musicand Classical drama during thesummer festival.

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ational Archeological m

useum

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lka Street

PlkaThe largely pedestrianized area ofPlka, with its narrow lanes andstepped alleys climbing towardsthe Acropolis, is perhaps the mostattractive part of Athens. Its

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erodes Atticus Theatre


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touristy, but full of atmosphere andthe citys best for idle wandering.

Cape SonioCape Sonios dramatic settingoverlooking the Aegean has made ita landmark for centuries to boatssailing between Pires and theislands. Its tremendous views andevocative Temple of Poseidon cer-tainly impressed Byron who carvedhis name on one of the pillars.

MonastirkiWhile less touristy than Plka,Monastirki still has great opportu-

nities for eating, drinking andabove all shopping from flea mar-kets to upmarket designer shops.Often busy and noisy, youll stillfind the occasional quiet oasis inthe high-rise urban surroundings.

DelphiSet amongst the massive crags ofMount Parnasss, Delphi is thesite of the most important oracle inancient Greece. Today, its awe-inspiring ruins and spectacularsetting make it one of the mostmemorable excursions fromAthens.

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elphi

Monastirki

Ideas

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Athens is stilldefined above all bythe brief period ofglory it enjoyed inthe fifth century BC the Golden Age ofClassical Athens.The signature imageof the city, and an

absolute must-see, is therocky hill of the Acropolis,topped by the Parthenon.Smaller, lesser-knownancient sites are scatteredthroughout the city centre.The citys ArcheologicalMuseum, too, is one of theworlds greatest, withtreasures not just fromAthens but from all thecultures of ancient Greece.The modern city is notalways beautiful, but it isenjoyable, with its buzzingoutdoor restaurants andcafs, great nightlife, andeasy access to aspectacular coastline.

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Lykavits HillClimb Lykavits Hill or take the funicu-lar for spectacular views of the city,including the Acropolis.

P.104 KOLONKI AND LYKAVITS HILL

National ArcheologicalMuseumThe gold Mask of Agamemnon fromMycenae is the biggest crowd-puller inAthens premier museum.

P.96 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXRHIA & NEPOLI

Con ten t s I deas

Street lifeIn summer, life in Athens moves on to thestreets, terraces and roof gardens. Dining ordrinking al fresco, with the Acropolis as back-drop, can be an unforgettable experience.

P.85 THISSO, GZI NO PETRLONA

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Tower of the WindsOn the site of the Roman Forum, theintriguing and well-preserved Tower of theWinds is compass, weather vane, sundialand water-clock in one.

P.71 MONASTIRKI & PSYRR

AcropolisCrowned by the Parthenon, and surroundedby the major relics of ancient Athens, theAcropolis is one of the archetypal images ofWestern civilization.

P.51 THE ACROPOLIS

Temple of PoseidonDominating Cape Souno, the Temple ofPoseidon commands magnificent views ofthe seas and islands around Athens.

P.133 ATTICA

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Exploring theAcropolis and itssurrounds can easilyabsorb an entireday. While theParthenon is themost imposing ofthe remains atop the

steep-sided hill, its farfrom the only one; theAcropolis has anextraordinary concentrationof superlative Classicalarchitecture, all of it datingfrom just a few decades atthe height of ancientAthenian democracy. TheAcropolis Museum housesmany of the treasures fromthe site and hopes one dayto complete its collectionwith the returnedParthenon Marbles.

The ErectheionThe most sacred of the ancient templesand a superb example of Ionic architec-ture, the Erectheions south porch is sup-ported by six larger-than-life maidens the Caryatids.

P.56 THE ACROPOLIS

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The Parthenon MarblesPart of the pediment of the Parthenon hasbeen reconstructed in the AcropolisMuseum although the Elgin Marblesremain in the British Museum, despite along Greek campaign to reclaim them.

P.56 THE ACROPOLIS

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The PropylaiaThe imposing entrance to the Acropolis nowas in Classical times, the Propylaia wereconsidered by ancient Athenians to be theirmost prestigious monument.

P.53 THE ACROPOLIS

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Acropolis son et lumireThe Acropolis is spectacularly lit at nightthroughout the summer, effects that can beenjoyed from vantage points across the city.

P.51 THE ACROPOLIS

Acropolis MuseumContaining almost all the treasuresremoved from the site since the 1830s, themuseum includes fine sculptures that onceadorned the Acropolis buildings, such asthe Kritias Boy pictured here.

P.57 THE ACROPOLIS

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KerameikosA tranquil, little-visited site that incorpo-rates the cemetery of ancient Athens aswell as fragments of the city walls, gatesand the roads that led to them.

P.83 THISSO, GZI & NO PETRLONA

In the fifth centuryBC, the city-state ofAthens suddenlyfound itself secureand wealthy, havingdefeated thePersians and risento dominate theirmainland rivals.They celebratedtheir success by aradical experimentwith democracy,

and with a flourishing ofart, architecture,literature and philosophywhose influences imbueWestern culture to this day.The physical remains of theClassical Golden Age arestill to be seen everywherein Athens, and with thecitys reconstruction moreis emerging almost daily.

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Stoa of AttalosThe reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos,part of the ancient Athenian marketplace,shows how Classical Athens might havelooked in its heyday, and houses theMuseum of the Agora.

P.60 THE ACROPOLIS

Monument of LysikratosIn a quiet corner of Plka, this is a lone sur-vivor of what was once a long line of simi-lar monuments celebrating victory inancient drama contests.

P.64 PLKA

Theatre of DionysosThe stunning theatre where the masterpieces of Classical drama werefirst performed.

P.57 THE ACROPOLIS

Temple of Athena NikeSmall but perfectly formed, this temple toAthens patron goddess encapsulates theideals of Classical architecture.

P.55 THE ACROPOLIS

Con ten t s I deas

The Romanscontrolled Athens forsome eight hundredyears, but they leftrelatively fewmonuments. On thewhole theyrespected theartistic andarchitecturalheritage of ClassicalAthens, while the

city itself becamesomething of a backwaterof the Empire. There were,however, two greatbenefactors in particularwhose legacy has survived:the Emperor Hadrian andHerodes Atticus, awealthy Roman senator.

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Tower of the WindsSituated in the Roman forum, this curiousyet graceful octagonal tower has each ofits well-preserved faces decorated with arelief of the eight winds.


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Hadrians LibraryYou can only admire it from the other sideof a fence, but the scale of the Emperorsstructure is truly impressive.


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Hadrians ArchErected by Hadrian to mark the divisionbetween the ancient Greek city and themodern Roman one, this imposing archrises to a height of eighteen metres.

P.115 SMNDAGMA & AROUND

The Roman ForumBuilt by Julius and Augustus Caesar as anextension of the busy Greek marketplace,the Roman Forum is one of the mainattractions in Monastirki. The site includesthe oldest Mosque in Athens, the FethiyeTzami.


Odeion of Herodes AtticusThe partly reconstructed theatre at the footof the Acropolis is today a stunning settingfor events at the annual Hellenic festival.

P.58 THE ACROPOLIS

The AreopagusThis low, rocky hill below the Acropolis hasrich historical significance: in ancient timesit was the site of the Council of Nobles andthe Judicial Court, and later St Paulpreached here, setting in train the conver-sion of Athens to Christianity.

P.59 THE ACROPOLIS

Con ten t s I deas

When the Romanempire split, Athenscame under thecontrol ofByzantium(Constantinople) andthe Byzantineempire. The schoolsof philosophy wereclosed, and many ofthe citys pagantemples convertedto churches. Thelegacy of the early

Christians is a series ofbeautiful ancientmonasteries, as well asmuseums and wonderfulfrescoes and icons.

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KapnikaraThe eleventh-century church ofKapnikara, right in the heart of Athens,makes for an extraordinary contrast to thepacked shopping streets surrounding it.


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Christ PantokratorChrist sits in majesty at the heart of theworld-famous cycle of mosaics in DhafnMonastery.

P.125 SUBURBAN ATHENS

Byzantine and ChristianMuseumThe richness of many of the icons on dis-play is typical of the Byzantine eras artisticstyles.

P.106 KOLONKI AND LYKAVITS

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Dhafn MonasteryThe fortress-like exterior of the Monastery ofDhafn, on the western fringes of Athens,gives little clue of the glories within.


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The Vafio CupThis wonderful gold cup, one of two dat-ing from around 1500 BC, depicts a bullbeing trapped, and was made by beatingthe gold into a hollow mould.


Athens NationalArcheologicalMuseum is amongthe worlds greatestmuseums, with anunrivalled collectionof ancient Greekart. It spans everyera from prehistoricand thedevelopment ofMycenaean andMinoan culture,through ClassicalGreece and on toRoman and earlyByzantine times.Extensive renovationfor the 2004Olympics hasprovided a setting tomatch the contents.Highlights are thefinds from graves at

Mycenae, and from theexcavations of Akrotri onthe island of Thra(Santorini).

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The museum buildingThe imposing Neoclassical building hous-ing the Museum occupies an entire block,set back from the street amid jungly gar-dens.


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PoseidonIn this graceful bronze statue from the mid-fifth century BC, Poseidon stands poised inperfect balance as he prepares to hurl his(missing) trident.


The Little Jockey ofArtemissionIn another masterpiece of animated bronzesculpture, the delicate-looking rider prob-ably a boy seems far too small for his gal-loping mount.


FrescoesThe Archeological Museum holds an impor-tant collection of frescoes; this examplefrom Akrotri depicts two boys boxing, itsstyle clearly influenced by Minoan Crete.


Con ten t s I deas

The citys lesser-known museumsshould not beoverlooked. Amongthe best are theBenki andKanellpoulosmuseums, eachhousing magnificentprivate collectionsthat cover every ageof Greek art andhistory from theprehistoric era to

the nineteenth-centuryindependence struggle.Others are more specialist:for example, theGoulandhrs Museum ofCycladic Art concentrateson artefacts predating theClassical era, superblydisplayed, while theMuseum of Greek FolkArt features ceramics,jewellery, weaving andother crafts.

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Kanellopoulou MuseumRight under the Acropolis at the top ofPlka, the Kanellopoulou Museum fills aformer private home with a treasure troveof fine art.

P.65 PLKA

Museum of Greek PopularMusical InstrumentsSuperbly displayed in a Neoclassicalbuilding, the museum traces the historyof virtually every type of instrumentever played in Greece.


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Goulandhrs Museum ofCycladic and Ancient Greek ArtThis small collection is extremely well pre-sented, and contains fine examples ofCycladic art.

P.105 KOLONKI & LYKAVITS HILL

Museum of Greek Folk ArtA superb collection of arts and crafts, includ-ing regional costumes and shadow puppets.

P.61 PLKA

Benki MuseumOccupying a graceful nineteenth-centurymansion, the Benki collection is ofexceptional variety and quality.


Con ten t s I deas

Plans for a city ofbroad boulevards,drawn up in thenineteenth centurywhen Athensbecame capital afterIndependence,didnt survive long.After World War II,instead, rapidgrowth saw the cityemerge as a vibrant,

stimulating and excitingmix of East and West,urban and rural, wherechickens roost next toInternet cafs, and eastern-style bazaars vie for spacewith chic outlets of Armaniand Zara.

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The metroThe development of new metro lines hashelped transform the city centre, cuttingtraffic and pollution and providing fast,efficient and easy-to-use transport.

P.166 ESSENTIALS

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Plata Omonas A great central meeting point; its perimeteris lined with kiosks selling everything frompapers and lottery tickets to watch-straps.

P.88 PLATA OMONAS & AROUND

Plata SondagmatosSkndagma Square is the vital heart of themodern city, bounded on one side by theparliament building and surrounded bybustling commercial streets.


The VoulThe vast Neoclassical Greek parliamentbuilding is guarded by evzones, goose-stepping in colourful traditional costume.


Con ten t s I deas

Athens is dottedwith hills andsurrounded bymountains, almostall of which offergreat views and theopportunity toescape the clamourof the city for awhile. Inevitably, theAcropolis seems tofind its way into

every photo, but there arefine cityscapes to beenjoyed in other directionstoo. The Acropolis itselfoffers good views of thecity, while Lykavits is theother classic viewpoint with the added advantageof a walk through elegantKolonki and a funicular toget you to the top. On thefringes of the city, themountains of Imitts andPrnitha are surprisinglyrugged making themexcellent hiking territory.

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The AcropolisGreat views as you look northeast from theAcropolis, with Plka below, Skndagma andthe city centre behind, and Lykavits in thebackground.

P.51 THE ACROPOLIS

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Lfos tou StrfiStrfi hill is little visited and offers a quietescape from the streets of surrounding Exarha.

P.98 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUMEXRHIA & NEPOLI

FilopppouFilopppou hill, romantically known in antiq-uity as the Hill of the Muses, is topped by agrandiose monument to the Roman senatorafter whom it is named.


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LykavitsFrom the top, Athens is laid out before youin all directions on a clear day you cansee as far as the mountains of thePeloponnese.


The PnyxThe remains of the ancient Athenian assem-bly stand at the summit of the Hill of thePnyx, looking out over Pires to the sea.

P.82 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUMEXRHIA & NEPOLI

Con ten t s I deas

gina The island of gina, less than an hour byhydrofoil from Athens, is famed for itsmany green orchards bearing pistachios.

P.147 FURTHER AFIELD

At first sight Athensis not a green city,but it has itsmoments. Thecitizens decoratetheir balconies withpotted plants andshrubs, while in theolder quartersbougainvilleacovers many

houses. In spring, flowerstry to blossom everywhere archeological sites andthe steeper slopes of thehills are ideal breedinggrounds. At the very heartof the city, the NationalGardens offer almosttropical luxuriance, whileas soon as you leave thecity limits, nature reassertsitself immediately, whetherin the mountains, thecoast or the nearbyislands.

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The National GardensPart formally laid out, part distinctly over-grown, the National Gardens make for arefreshing, shady escape from the sum-mer heat.


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Mount PrnithaLess than an hour by bus from the city cen-tre, Mount Prnitha is remarkably wild, witha fabulous variety of alpine flowers inspring.

P.137 ATTICA

Ruins in springEven in the heart of Athens, in springtimeflowers burst through and adorn the manyancient remains.

P.51 THE ACROPOLIS

LykavitsThe lower slopes of Lykavits and many ofthe citys other hills are covered in pinetrees and succulents.


Con ten t s I deas

Athens has a hugevariety of restaurantsand tavernas. Theatmosphere isinvariably relaxed,though the city doeshave its share offancy places. Theresvirtually every typeof cuisine too, butthe vast majority ofplaces, and the onesmost frequented bylocals, remain no-frills tavernas. Mostmenus are simple,but you can rely ongood-quality, freshingredients: if youre

not sure about the menu,you can often go into thekitchen and see whats onoffer. A typically Greek wayto eat is to order a selectionof small dishes mezdhes to share.Locals generally eat late:23.30pm for lunch,911pm for dinner. Awayfrom the touristy areas, youmay find restaurantsdeserted if you go muchearlier than this.

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ZidhoronIn the heart of trendy Psyrr, Zidhoron is amodern take on a traditional mezedhopolo.


KoukkiAn excellent eating locale just outside thecentre.

P121 METS, PANGRTI & KOUKKI,

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PlkaMost Athens restaurants have a terrace,courtyard or stretch of pavement on whichtables are set up outside in summer. Thepedestrian streets of Plka provide a partic-ularly atmospheric setting.

P.68 PLKA

Taverna musicEvening performances of traditional Greekmusic are common, and while often rathertouristy they are occasionally great.


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Taverna DamingosA basement taverna thats still going stronginto its third century.

P.68 PLKA

no PetrlonaAway from the touristy central districts,neighbourhoods such as no Petrlona gen-erally offer more authentic menus and amore local atmosphere.


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Brettos Backlit bottles decorate Brettos, a peren-nial Plka favourite thats a liquor storeby day and bar at night.

P.67 PLKA

There seems to be acaf on every cornerin Athens, most ofwhich open frommid-morning till latein the evening.Theyre an essentialpart of the socialfabric of the city,always full of groupsof people chatting(on their mobiles if

not to each other), smokingand drinking. Join themover a Greek coffee or thequintessential summerdrink, a frapp: icedinstant coffee, whipped toa froth. If you fancy a coldbeer, you can have that ina caf too manyeffectively become bars inthe evening, when theyturn down the lights andturn up the music. Placesthat describe themselvesas bars, with only a fewexceptions, are muchfancier and moreexpensive.

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Plata Filomossou EterasCompeting cafs and restaurants in theheart of Plka.

P.67 PLKA

SkholarhioThis traditional ouzer in Plka serves excel-lent mezdhes.

P.69 PLKA

Exrhia An alternative feel prevails at the cafsand bars in this bohemian district.

P.100 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM,EXRHIA & NEPOLI

PsyrrBy night, Psyrr buzzes with some of thecitys trendiest bars and restaurants, whileby day its a relaxing place for a coffee.


Con ten t s I deas

RebtikaTraditional music falls broadly into twocategories: rebtika, the drugs-and-out-cast music brought to Athens by Greeksfrom Asia Minor in the early twentiethcentury; and dhimotik, traditional folkmusic.

P.94 PLATA OMONAS & AROUND

Mgaro MousiksThe citys major concert hall, the MgaroMousiks, hosts prestigious performancesall year-round.

P.169 ESSENTIALS

To see the best livetraditional Greekmusic, perhapssurprisingly youneed to visit duringthe winter months,as in the summermany musicians areoff touring thecountry.This is also whenthe major ballet anddramaperformances arestaged, and thesporting calendaris at its busiest. Thesummer, however, isthe festival season,

and most important of all isthe June-to-SeptemberHellenic Festival of dance,music and ancient drama,with many of itsperformances staged in theancient theatres of HerodesAtticus and Epidaurus. Thereare also annual rock, jazzand blues events at this time,and you may see biginternational tours at one ofthe outdoor venues.

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Street musicThe pedestrianization of much of the centrehas allowed street performers and tradersto thrive; the approach to the Acropolis isparticularly good for seeing buskers.

P.53 THE ACROPOLIS

Lykavits TheatreThe theatre perched atop Lykavits is aspectacular venue. Many of the citys majorrock events are staged here.


FootballThere are three major football clubs in Athens:Panathinaiks, Olympiaks and AEK; theatmosphere on match days is intense.

P.170 ESSENTIALS

Con ten t s I deas

KolonkiKolonki has a fair spread of clubs, whichtend to be generally more upmarket thanthose in Psyrr or Gzi.


Clubs and dancebars are hugelypopular in Athens,and often extremelysophisticated.Downtown, thehottest action is in

the Psyrr and Gzi areas,but in summer many closedown and decamp to astring of hangar-like placeson the coastal strip fromPires to Vrkiza. Expectthe unexpected: most playrecent hits, but dont besurprised if the soundshifts to Greek or belly-dancing music towards theend of the night. The gayscene in Athens is mostlyvery discreet, but there isan increasing number ofclubs and bars; Gzi is thehottest new area, whilemore established placesare mostly in Kolonki oroff Syngro Avenue.

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Bee BarTypically cool designer bar in Psyrr, agreat place to meet up at the beginning ofthe evening, or to chill out in later.

P.79 MONASTIRKI & PSRR

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Live bandsThe local rock scene is small but interest-ing you can expect anything from rock toreggae to blues.

P101 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM,EXRHIA & NEPOLI

ClubbingExpect a hefty bill if you join the clubbingcrowd, but at least the admission price usu-ally includes your first drink.


Beach clubsBeachside clubs and bars open up in sum-mer to cater to the clubbers seeking thecooler climes of the coast.


Con ten t s I deas

Street marketsStreet markets held across the city aregreat places to stock up on picnic fareand get a taste of local Athens.

P.170 ESSENTIALS

Shopping in Athensis decidedlyschizophrenic. Onthe one hand, thebazaar area is anextraordinary jumbleof little specialistshops and stalls,while almost everyneighbourhood stillhosts a weeklystreet market. Onthe other, theupmarket shoppingareas of the citycentre, and themalls and fashion

emporia of the ritziersuburbs, are as glossy andexpensive as any in Europe.The food halls of the centralmarket and the picturesqueflower market nearby areparticularly worthwhile, whileif youre into trawling throughjunk, dont miss the Sundaymorning flea markets inMonastirki and Pires.

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The fish marketSeafood and fish play a big part in theAthenian diet, and at the bustling fishmarket youll see residents and tavernaowners alike browsing the catch.

P.88 OMNIA

Odhs ErmoErmo, off Skndagma square, is one of theprime downtown shopping streets, home todepartment stores and high-street labels.

P.70 MONASTIRKI & PSYRR Perptero kiosksHandy for anything from newspapers to colddrinks, tobacco and any manner of essen-tials, kiosks are found on every corner andstay open all hours. Several in Omnia spe-cialize in the foreign press.

P.88 PLATAS OMONAS & AROUND

Monastirki flea marketExperience the Sunday morning buzz in thestreets around Monastirki.


Con ten t s I deas

Icon shopsIcons, from cheap reproductions aimed atthe tourist market to expensive and exqui-site copies are sold everywhere: some ofthe best are found in the religious artefactshops around Plata Mitrpoleos.


Greece remains adeeply traditionaland for the mostpart culturallyhomogeneoussociety, and overninety-five percentof the populationbelongs to theGreek OrthodoxChurch. For all itssurface modernity,Athens is no

exception. The Orthodoxchurch plays a significantpart in most peoples lives:ceremonies like baptisms,weddings and funerals arevery important, and thefestivals of the churchcalendar Easter above all are celebrated withgusto. Name days celebrating the saint afterwhom you are named are more significant thanbirthdays.

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Historic iconsWhen youve had your fill of browsing theicon shops, check out their historic predeces-sors at the Byzantine and Christian museum.


Plata MitrpoleosThe square itself is more of a draw than thecathedral here, but there has been a churchon this site for centuries


Baptism ceremoniesEvents like baptisms bring out a vast,extended family all of whom can expectlavish hospitality.


41

Con ten t s I deas

Apostlou PvlouModern sculpture adorns the pedestrian-ized street that overlooks the Agora andAcropolis.


Central Athens iscompact enough tobe able to walkalmost anywhere.One of the lastinglegacies of the runup to 2004 Olympicsis undoubtedly bethe network ofpedestrian streetsthat transformed thecentre of town.

Quite apart from thepleasure of being able towitness the ancient sitesfrom a traffic-freeenvironment,pedestrianization, togetherwith the extension of themetro and other publictransport initiatives havestarted to have an effect onAthens critical pollutionproblems.

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Odhs ErmoErmo is a wonderfully traffic-free routefrom Skndagma down the Monastirki.


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KolonkiThe upper reaches of Kolonki climbsteeply towards Lykavits hill its easiestto take the funicular up and walk down.


Dhionysou AreopaytouA relaxed, traffic-free street on the southside of the Acropolis, passing the HerodesAtticus Theatre.

P.53 THE ACROPOLIS

Odhs AdhrianoFrom Thisso metro all the way throughPlka, Adhriano is lined with bustling cafsand shops.


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NfplioThe beautiful old town of Nfplio, with itspicturesque castles, attracts plenty ofweekending Athenians, ensuring livelynightlife to go with the sights.


Athens issurrounded by thesea, and the Greeknation has aseafaring traditiongoing back toClassical times.There are somegreat beaches ineasy reach, thoughon summerweekends theyrepacked to capacity.At many of the bestyou pay for entry,allowing you to usea range of facilitiesfrom loungers towatersports. Moreadventurously, fromthe port of Piresyou can get a ferryto one of a numberof nearby islands,escaping in just acouple of hours (halfthat if you take a

hydrofoil) to an entirelydifferent world.

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Beach at VouliagmniVouliagmni has some of the most attrac-tive and exclusive beaches on the devel-oped strip south of the city.

P128 SUBURBAN ATHENS

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Temple of Afaia, ginaThe rural island of gina seems anotherworld the serene Temple of Afaia can bereached by a good local bus service.


ProsPicturesque Pros lies in close proximity tothe mainland, ensuring a steady stream ofcustomers for its fine waterfront restaurantsand cafs.


Ferries from PiresPart of the magic of visiting the islands isthe journey itself; an impressive array offerries, catamarans and hydrofoils offer asmooth crossing as they run between thebustling port and the islands.


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Attica, the provincesurrounding Athens,has numerousattractions beyondthe obvious onesoffered by itsbeaches: above all,the importantoutposts of ClassicalAthens, made all themore appealing now

by their rural isolation.Further out, some of thegreat sites, includingDelphi and Mycenae, arean easy day-trip. Themountains, with theirtraditional villages, walkingand even skiingopportunities, are yetanother alternative.

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RhamnousAncient Rhamnous is little visited, but thesite enjoys a spectacular location over-looking the island of vvia.

P.136 ATTICA

MycenaeThe discovery of Mycenae in the latenineteenth century was a seminal event inGreek archeology, proving that Homer andthe stories of ancient, pre-Classical civi-lizations were not mere myth.


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Mount ParnithaLooking out from the ancient fortress ofPhyle, just an hour from the centre ofAthens, the unspoilt nature of MountParnitha is readily apparent.

P137 ATTICA

Temple of PoseidonCape Sonio and the beautiful temple thatstands at its tip have long been a landmarkfor sailors approaching Athens.

P.133 ATTICA

DelphiDelphi, home of the Delphic Oracle, wasthought by the ancient Greeks to be thecentre of the earth. Its still among the mostimpressive of all ancient sites.


EleusisThe Sanctuary of Demeter at Eleusis accessible by city bus from Athens wasone of the most important in the ancientworld.

P.137 ATTICA

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Places

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The AcropolisThe rock of the Acropolis, crowned by the dramaticruins of the Parthenon, is one of the archetypal imagesof Western culture. The first time you see it, risingabove the traffic or from a distant hill, is extraordinary:foreign and yet utterly familiar. The Parthenon templewas always intended to be a landmark, and was famousthroughout the ancient world. Yet even in their wildestdreams its creators could hardly have imagined that theruins would come to symbolize the emergence ofWestern civilization nor that, two-and-a-half millenniaon, it would attract some three million tourists a year.The Acropoliss natural setting, asteep-sided, flat-topped crag oflimestone rising abruptly a hun-dred metres from its surround-ings, has made it the focus of thecity during every phase of itsdevelopment. Easily defensibleand with plentiful water, its ini-tial attractions are obvious evennow, with no function apartfrom tourism, it is the undeniableheart of the city, around whicheverything else clusters, glimpsedat almost every turn.

Crowds at the Acropolis canbe horrendous to avoid theworst, come very early or late inthe day.The peak rush usuallycomes in late morning, whencoach tours congregate beforemoving on to lunch elsewhere.

The sites included in this

chapter fall within one of threeseparate fenced areas: the sum-mit of the Acropolis, whichincludes the Parthenon itself,the Propylaia the gatewaythrough which the ancient sanc-tuary was entered theAcropolis Museum, and othertemples including theErectheion and the Temple ofAthena Nike; the South Slope

Acropolis tickets and opening timesA joint ticket (e12; free to under-18s and EU students; E6 for non-EU studentsand EU citizens over 65; free on public holidays and Sundays NovMarch) coversthe Acropolis, Ancient Agora and South Slope, plus the Roman Forum, Kerameikosand the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The smaller sites also offer individual tickets,but only the joint one is valid for the summit of the Acropolis, so if you visit any ofthe others first, be sure to buy the multiple ticket or you simply end up payingtwice; it can be used over four days, although there doesnt seem to be any wayof indicating when it was issued.

The Acropolis itself is open every day AprilSept 8am7pm, OctMarch8am4.30pm. The South Slope (individual entry E2) and Ancient Agora (individualentry E4) are open daily AprilSept 8am7pm, OctMarch 8.30am3pm.

P A R T H E N O N


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E R MO U

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Voulefterio

Stoa ofZeus

Stoa ofEumenes

Odeion ofPericles

Old Temple

AthenaPromachos

Sanctuaryof Artemis

Asklepion

PanayiaKhryssospiliotissa

PanathenaicWay

AthenaeumMaria Callas

yiiAsmati

MonastirkiFlea Market

Stoaof Attalos(Agora

Museum)

yiiApstoli

Palace& Stoas

Odeionof Agrippa

Monument ofEponymous

Heroes

AreopagusRock

Tholos

Hephaisteion

AyaMarina

Theatre ofHerodes Atticus

Theatre ofDionysos

New AcropolisMuseum Site

RomanForum

Tower ofthe Winds

KanellopoulouMuseum

Museum of GreekFolk Art: Man & Tools

Hadrian'sLibrary

FethiyeMosque

Parthenon

ErechtheionTemple of

Athena Nike

Beule Gate

AcropolisMuseum

Propylaia

AncientAgora

Acropolis

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Akropoli

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They were built from the samemarble as the temple, and ingrandeur and architecturalachievement are almost asimpressive.The ancientAthenians, awed by the fact thatsuch wealth and craftsmanshipshould be used for a purely sec-ular building, ranked this as theirmost prestigious monument.

Walking through the gateway,which would originally havehad great wooden doors, is youronly chance to enter any of theancient buildings atop theAcropolis.To the left of the cen-tral hall (which before Venetianbombardment supported a greatcoffered roof, painted blue andgilded with stars), thePinakotheke was an early artgallery, exhibiting paintings ofHomeric subjects by

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oliswith its two great theatres; and

the Ancient Agora.There are no shops or restau-

rants within the Acropolis area,although you can buy water andsandwiches, guidebooks, post-cards and so on from a coupleof stands near the Beule Gate.Theres also a handy branch ofEverest right opposite Akropolimetro station (at the corner ofMariyinni and Dhiako) andplenty of similar places aroundMonastirki metro. If you wantto sit down, there are cafs andtavernas nearby in almost everydirection: see Plka (p.68),Monastirki (p.77), Makriynni(p.121) and Thisso (p.85).

The Propylaia Main Acropolis site. Today, asthroughout history, thePropylaia are the gateway to theAcropolis. In Classical times theroad extended along a steepramp to this monumental dou-ble-gatehouse; the modern pathmakes a more gradual, zigzag-ging ascent, passing first throughan arched Roman entrance, theBeule Gate, added in the thirdcentury AD.

The Propylaia were construct-ed by Mnesikles from 437432BC, and their axis and propor-tions aligned to balance therecently completed Parthenon.

Approaches to the AcropolisThe sites are ringed by a pedestrian walkway, allowing views of the Parthenon tobe appreciated from almost every angle. You may get a little lost among the jum-ble of alleys in Plka, but the rock itself is always there to guide you. The Acropolisitself can be entered only from the west, where theres a big coach park at thebottom of the hill.

On foot, the most common approach to the ruins is from the northwest cornerof Plka, on a path that extends above Odhs Dhioskoron where it joins Theoras.You can also approach from the south, where pedestrianized DhionysouAreopaytou (Metro Akropoli) offers access to the South Slope; from the north viathe Ancient Agora (entrance on Adhriano; Metro Monastirki); or, slightly furtherbut repaid with excellent views of both Agora and Acropolis, from Thisso alongtraffic-free Apostlou Pvlou (Metro Thisso).

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Polygnotus.The wing to theright is much smaller, asMnesikless original designincorporated ground sacred tothe Goddess of Victory and thepremises had to be adapted as awaiting room for her shrine the Temple of Athena Nike.


The Panathenaic Way Main Acropolis site. ThePanathenaic Way was the routealong which the great proces-sion for ancient AthensPanathenaic Festival, in honourof the citys patron goddessAthena, passed every four years.

The development of the AcropolisThe rocky Acropolis was home to one of the earliest known settlements in Greece,its slopes inhabited by a Neolithic community around 5000 BC. In Mycenaeantimes it was fortified with Cyclopean walls (parts of which can still be seen),enclosing a royal palace and temples to the goddess Athena. By the ninth centuryBC, the Acropolis had become the heart of Athens, the first Greek city-state,sheltering its principal public buildings.

Most of the substantial remains seen today date from the fifth century BC orlater, by which time the buildings here were purely religious. The entire area wasreconstructed in 449 BC, following its sacking during the Persian Wars. This vastproject, coinciding with the Golden Age of Classical Athens, was masterminded byPericles and carried out under the general direction of the architect and sculptorPheidias. It was completed in an incredibly short time: the Parthenon itself tookonly ten years to finish.

The monuments survived barely altered for close to a thousand years, until inthe reign of Emperor Justinian the temples were converted to Christian places ofworship. Over the following centuries, the uses became secular as well as reli-gious, and embellishments increased, gradually obscuring the Classical designs.Fifteenth-century Italian princes held court in the Propylaia, and the same quar-ters were later used by the Turks as their commanders headquarters and as apowder magazine. The Parthenon underwent similar changes from Greek toRoman temple, from Byzantine church to Frankish cathedral, before several cen-turies of use as a Turkish mosque. The Erechtheion, with its graceful female fig-ures, saw service as a harem.

The Acropolis buildings finally fell victim to war, blown up during successiveattempts by the Venetians to oust the Turks. In 1684 the Turks demolished the Templeof Athena Nike to gain a brief tactical advantage. Three years later the Venetians, lay-ing siege to the hill, ignited a Turkish gunpowder magazine in the Parthenon, in theprocess blasting off its roof and starting a fire that raged for two days and nights.

The process of stripping down to the bare ruins seen today was completed bysouvenir hunters and the efforts of the first archeologists (see p.56).

The fate of the buildings since has been little happier. After Independence, Greekarcheologists cleared the Turkish village that had developed around theParthenon-mosque and did work intended to preserve the structures: in the longrun, though, much of this proved destructive. Meanwhile, earthquakes have dis-lodged the foundations; generations of feet have slowly worn down surfaces; and,more recently, sulphur dioxide deposits, caused by vehicle and industrial pollution,have been turning the marble to dust.

Since a 1975 report predicted the collapse of the Parthenon, visitors have beenbarred from its actual precinct, and a major, long-term restoration scheme of theentire Acropolis embarked upon. With the work completed as a result of the 2004Olympics, the Acropolis would be free of scaffolding and reconstruction work forthe first time in decades.


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process was undertaken in therun-up to the 2004 OlympicGames the temple was tem-porarily dismantled and its piecestaken away for restoration andcleaning.

The best views of the templeare from inside the Acropolis, tothe right after passing throughthe Propylaia. Here also are thescant remains of a Sanctuary ofBrauronian Artemis.Although itsfunction remains obscure, it isknown that the precinct oncehoused a colossal bronze repre-sentation of the Wooden Horseof Troy. More noticeable is anearby stretch of Mycenaeanwall (running parallel to thePropylaia) that was incorporatedinto the Classical design.

The ParthenonMain Acropolis site. The Parthenonwas the first great building inPericles scheme, intended as anew sanctuary for Athena and ahome for her cult image acolossal wooden statue of AthenaPolias (Athena of the City) over-laid with ivory and gold plating,with precious gems as eyes and

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The procession wound rightthrough the Classical city fromthe gates now in theKerameikos site (p.83) via thePropylaia to the Parthenon and,finally, the Erectheion. One ofthe best-preserved stretches ofthe ancient route, which was ofcourse used as a road betweenfestivals too, can be seen justinside the Propylaia. Here youcan make out grooves cut forfootholds in the rock and, toeither side, niches for innumer-able statues and offerings. InClassical times it ran past a ten-metre-high bronze statue ofAthena Promachos (Athena theChampion), whose base can justabout be made out.Athenasspear and helmet were said tobe visible to sailors approachingfrom as far away as Souno.Thestatue was moved toConstantinople in Byzantinetimes and later destroyed.

The Temple of Athena Nike Main Acropolis site. Simple and ele-gant, the Temple of Athena Nikestands on a precipitous platformoverlooking the port of Piresand the Saronic Gulf.The tem-ples frieze depicts the Atheniansvictory over the Persians atPlateia.A relief from inside thetemple, Victory Adjusting herSandal, is now one of the starexhibits in the AcropolisMuseum. It was from this sitethat in myth King Aegeus main-tained a vigil for the return ofhis son Theseus after slaying theMinotaur on Crete and whereAegeus threw himself to hisdeath, mistakenly believingTheseus had perished.

Amazingly, the whole templewas demolished by the Turks,who used its material for a gunemplacement, and reconstructedfrom its original blocks twohundred years later.The same

P A R T H E N O N F R I E Z E


length to width, width toheight, and even such relation-ships as the distances betweenthe columns and their diameter is constant, while any possibleappearance of disproportion iscorrected by meticulous mathe-matics and craftsmanship.

The Erechtheion Main Acropolis site. TheErechtheion was the last of thegreat works of Pericles to becompleted. Both Athena and thecitys old patron, Poseidon(known here as Erechtheus),were worshipped here, in themost revered of the ancient tem-ples.The site is the oldest on theAcropolis, home to the originalMycenaean palace. It was here,according to myth, that Athenaand Poseidon wrangled for pos-session of Athens.A contest washeld to decide their rival claims,judged by their fellow Olympiangods.At the touch of Athenasspear, the first ever olive treesprang from the ground, whilePoseidon summoned forth aspring of sea water.Athena won,and became patron of the city.

Today, the sacred objects with-in are long gone, but the series

an ivory gorgon deaths-head onher breast.The sculpture has longbeen lost, but numerous latercopies exist (including a fineRoman one in the NationalArcheological Museum). Despitethe statue, the Parthenon neverrivalled the Erechtheion in sanc-tity, and its role tended to remainthat of treasury and artisticshowcase.

Originally the Parthenonscolumns were brightly paintedand it was decorated with thefinest sculpture of the Classicalage, depicting the Panathenaicprocession, the birth of Athenaand the struggles of Greeks toovercome giants,Amazons andcentaurs also brightly coloured.Of these, the best survivingexamples are in the BritishMuseum in London (see boxabove); the Acropolis Museumhas others, but the greater part ofthe pediments, along with thecentral columns and the cella,were destroyed by the Venetianbombardment in 1687.

To achieve the Parthenonsexceptional harmony of design,its architect, Iktinos, used everytrick known to the Doric orderof architecture. Every ratio

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The Parthenon Marbles The controversy over the so-called Elgin Marbles has its origin in the activities ofWestern looters at the start of the nineteenth century. Chief among these were theFrench ambassador Fauvel, gathering antiquities for the Louvre, and the Britishambassador Lord Elgin. Elgin obtained permission from the Turks to erect scaf-folding, excavate and remove stones with inscriptions. He interpreted this con-cession as a licence to make off with almost all of the bas-reliefs from theParthenons frieze, most of its pedimental structures and a caryatid from theErechtheion all of which he later sold to the British Museum. There were per-haps justifications for Elgins action at the time not least the Turks tendency touse Parthenon stones in their limekilns, and possible further ravages of war though it was controversial even then.

The Greeks hope that the long-awaited completion of the new AcropolisMuseum (see p.59) will create the perfect opportunity for the British Museum tobow to pressure and return the marbles. But despite a campaign begun by Greekactress and culture minister Melina Mercouri in the early 1980s, there is so far lit-tle sign of that happening.

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of elegant Ionic porticoes sur-vive, the north one with a par-ticularly fine decorated doorwayand frieze of blue Eleusinianmarble. By far the most strikingfeature, however, is the famousPorch of the Caryatids, whosecolumns form the tunics of sixtall maidens.The ones in situ are,sadly, replacements. Five of theoriginals are in the AcropolisMuseum, while a sixth was loot-ed by Elgin, who also removed acolumn and other purely archi-tectural features theyrereplaced here by casts in a differ-ent colour marble.

The Acropolis MuseumMain Acropolis site. AprilSept Mon11am7pm, TuesSun 8am7pm;OctMarch Mon 10am3pm, TuesSun8.30am3pm. Placed discreetly ona level below that of the mainmonuments, the AcropolisMuseum contains virtually all ofthe portable objects removedfrom the site since 1834.


Labelling is fairly basic, so toexplore in detail a supplemen-tary guide is useful, though itsalso easy to eavesdrop on themany tour guides passingthrough indeed, usually itsimpossible to avoid doing so.

In the first rooms to the leftof the vestibule are fragmentsof sculptures from the OldTemple of Athena (seventh tosixth century BC), whosetraces of paint give a goodimpression of the vivid coloursthat were used in temple deco-ration. Further on is theMoschophoros, a painted mar-ble statue of a young man car-rying a sacrificial calf, dated570 BC and one of the earliestexamples of Greek art in mar-ble. Room 4 displays one ofthe chief treasures of the build-ing, a unique collection ofKorai, or statues of maidens.The progression in style, fromthe simply contoured Doricclothing to the more elegantand voluminous Ionic designs,is fascinating; the figures smilesalso change subtly, becomingincreasingly loose and natural.

The pieces of the Parthenonfrieze in Room 8 were buriedin the explosion that destroyedthe Parthenon, thereby escap-ing the clutches of Lord Elgin.This room also contains agraceful and fluid sculpture,known as Iy Sandalzoussa,which depicts Athena Nikeadjusting her sandal. Finally, inthe last room are four authen-tic and semi-eroded caryatidsfrom the Erechtheion, dis-played behind a glass screen ina carefully rarefied atmosphere.

Theatre of DionysosSouth slope site. The Theatre ofDionysos is one of the mostevocative locations in the city.Here were hosted the first

A C R O P O L I S M U S E U M


Theatre of Dionysos is the sec-ond-century Roman HerodesAtticus Theatre (Odeion ofHerodes Atticus).This has beenextensively restored for perform-ances of music and Classicaldrama during the summer festival(see p.170). Unfortunately, itsopen only for shows; at othertimes youll have to be contentwith spying over the wall.

Between the two theatres liethe foundations of the Stoa ofEumenes, originally a massivecolonnade of stalls erected in thesecond century BC.Above thestoa extend the ruins of theAsklepion, a sanctuary devotedto the healing god Asklepios andbuilt around a sacred spring.Today, its a pleasantly peacefulspot, shaded by cypress trees; themost obvious remains are of aByzantine church of the doctor-saints Kosmas and Damian.Follow the steps above theTheatre of Dionysos, then a pathto the right, and youll come to avast grotto, converted perhaps amillennium ago into the chapelof Panaya Khryssospilitissa; itsworth a look for the settingrather than the faded iconogra-phy inside.

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performances of the masterpiecesof Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripidesand Aristophanes; it was also thevenue in Classical times for theannual festival of tragic drama,where each Greek citizen wouldtake his turn as member of thechorus.The theatre could holdsome 17,000 spectators consid-erably more than HerodesAtticuss 50006000 seats; twentyof the original 64 tiers of seatssurvive. Most notable are thegreat marble thrones in the frontrow, each inscribed with thename of an official of the festivalor of an important priest; in themiddle sat the priest of Dionysosand on his right the representativeof the Delphic Oracle.At the rearof the stage along the Romanbema (rostrum) are reliefs ofepisodes in the life of Dionysos.Sadly, this area is roped off to pro-tect the stage-floor mosaic, amagnificent diamond of multi-coloured marble best seen fromthe seats above.

Around the TheatreSouth slope site. The dominantstructure on the south side of theAcropolis much more immedi-ately obvious even than the

T H E A T R E O F D I O N Y S O S

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The New Acropolis MuseumLeforos Dhionysou Areopaytou, oppo-site the South Slope site. After yearsof delays, work on the newAcropolis Museum finally beganin 2003.This is set to be stun-ning: the top storey is an all-glassaffair designed to house theParthenon Marbles (those alreadyin the Acropolis Museum, plusthe restored Elgin Marbles), witha direct view up to theParthenon itself. Downstairs, therest of the contents of the currentAcropolis Museum will be farbetter displayed than they can benow, and theres also a raised,part-glass floor, added to thedesign to preserve and displayremains of early ChristianAthens, discovered during build-ing work.

The AreopagusImmediately below the entrance to theAcropolis. Slippery, rock-hewnstairs ascend the low, unfencedhill of the Areopagus, the site ofthe Council of Nobles and theJudicial Court under the aristo-cratic rule of ancient Athens.During the Classical period thecourt lost its powers of govern-ment to the Assembly (held onthe Pnyx), but it remained thecourt of criminal justice, dealingprimarily with cases of homi-cide. In myth it was also therock (pagos) where Ares, God ofWar, was tried for the murder ofone of Poseidons sons.Aeschylusused this setting in TheEumenides for the trial ofOrestes, who stood accused ofmurdering his motherClytemnestra.

The Persians camped here dur-ing their siege of the Acropolisin 480 BC, and in the Romanera Saint Paul preached theSermon on an Unknown Godon the hill, winning amongst hisconverts Dionysius the

Areopagite, who became thecitys patron saint.Today, thereslittle left on the ground, and,historic associations apart, theAreopagus is notable mainly forthe views, especially down overthe Agora and towards theancient cemetery of Kerameiks.

The Ancient AgoraAncient Agora site. The Agora ormarket was the heart of ancientAthenian city life from as earlyas 3000 BC.Today, the site is anextensive and rather confusingjumble of ruins, dating fromvarious stages of buildingbetween the sixth century BCand the fifth century AD.Aswell as the marketplace, theAgora was the chief meetingplace of the city, where oratorsheld forth, business was dis-cussed and gossip exchanged. Itwas also the first home of thedemocratic assembly before thatshifted to the Pnyx, and contin-ued to be its meeting placewhen cases of ostracism werediscussed for most of theClassical period.

Originally the Agora was arectangle, divided diagonally bythe Panathenaic Way andenclosed by temples, administra-tive buildings, and long porti-coed stoas (arcades of shops). Inthe centre was an open space,defined by boundary stones.

The best overview of the siteis from the exceptionally well-preserved Hephaisteion, orTemple of Hephaistos, whichoverlooks the rest of the sitefrom the west.An observationpoint in front of it has a planshowing the buildings as theywere in 150 AD, and the variousremains laid out in front of youmake a lot more sense with thisto help (there are similar plansat the entrances).The temple,sometimes known as the


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Thisseion (the exploits ofTheseus are depicted on thefrieze), is dedicated toHephaistos, patron of black-smiths and metalworkers. It wasone of the earliest buildings ofPericles programme, but alsoone of the least known per-haps because it lacks the curva-ture and lightness of theParthenons design.The barrel-vaulted roof dates from aByzantine conversion into thechurch of Saint George.

The other church on the site that of yii Apstoli (theHoly Apostles), by the southentrance is worth a look asyou wander among the exten-sive foundations of the otherAgora buildings. Inside are frag-ments of fresco, exposed duringrestoration of the eleventh-century shrine.

Stoa of AttalosAncient Agora site. For somebackground to the Agora, headfor the Museum, housed in themagnificent Stoa of Attalos.The

reconstruction of the stoa wasundertaken by the AmericanSchool of Archeology in Athensbetween 1953 and 1956. It is, inevery respect except colour, anentirely faithful reconstructionof the original; lacking colour orno, the building is spectacular.Sadly, it doesnt deliver inside the display is small and old-fashioned, with labels that lookas if theyve been here since itopened in 1957.The bulk ofwhat you see is pottery andcoins from the sixth to thefourth century BC, plus someearly Geometric grave offerings including red-figure dishesdepicting athletes, musicians andminor deities, together with anoil flask in the form of akneeling boy. Look out for theostraka, or shards of pottery, withnames written on them.Atannual assemblies of the citizens,these ostraka would be handedin, and the individual with mostvotes banished, or ostracized,from the city for ten years.


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Although surrounded by huge,traffic-choked avenues, Plkaitself is a welcome escape, its nar-row streets offering no through-routes for traffic even where youare allowed to drive. Nineteenth-century houses, some grand,some humble, can be seen every-where, their gateways openingonto verdant courtyards over-looked by wooden verandahs.

With scores of cafs andrestaurants to fill the timebetween museums and sites, andstreets lined with touristy shops,its an enjoyable place to wander.The main disadvantage is price things are noticeably moreexpensive in Plka than in muchof the rest of the city.

Museum of Greek Folk ArtKydhathinon 17. TuesSun 10am2pm.E2. The Folk Art Museum is oneof the most enjoyable in the city,

even though let down somewhatby poor lighting and labelling. Itsfive floors are devoted tocollections of weaving, pottery,regional costumes andembroidery, along with othertraditional Greek arts and crafts.On the mezzanine floor, thecarnival tradition of northernGreece and the all-but-vanishedshadow-puppet theatre arefeatured.The second floorfeatures exhibits of gold andsilver jewellery and weaponry,much of it from the era of theWar of Independence.Thehighlight, though, is on the firstfloor: the reconstructed roomfrom a house on the island ofLesvs with a series of wonderfulmurals by the primitive artistTheofilos (18681934), navescenes from Greek folklore andhistory, especially theindependence struggle.


PlkaThe largely pedestrianized area of Plka, with its nar-row lanes and stepped alleys climbing towards theAcropolis, is arguably the most attractive part ofAthens, and certainly the most popular with visitors. Inaddition to a scattering of ancient sites and various off-beat and enjoyable museums, it offers glimpses of anolder Athens, refreshingly at odds with the concreteblocks of the metropolis.

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Childrens MuseumKydhathinon 14. TuesFri 10am2pm,Sat & Sun 10am3pm. Free.Aimedat the under-12s, the ChildrensMuseum is as much a play areaas a museum. Labelling isentirely in Greek, and the placeis primarily geared to schoolgroups, who take part inactivities such as chocolate-making but it should keepyoung kids amused for a while.

Permanent exhibits includefeatures on the Athens metro,how computers work, and thehuman body.

Frissiras MuseumMons Asterou 3 and 7wwww.frissirasmuseum.com.WedThurs 11am7pm, FriSun11am5pm.E6. Housed in twobeautifully renovated Neoclassicalbuildings, the Frissiras Museum is


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billed as Greeces only museumof contemporary European art. Ithas over three thousand works mostly figurative painting plus afew sculptures, a regularprogramme of exhibitions, a fineshop and an elegant caf.Thespace at no. 7 houses thepermanent exhibition, whichincludes plenty of names familiarto English-speakers DavidHockney, Peter Blake, Paula

Rego among them as well asmany less obvious Greek andother European artists.Temporaryexhibitions, along with the shopand caf, are at no. 3 a blockaway.

Centre of Folk Art and TraditionAngeliks Hatzimihli 6. TuesFri9am1pm & 59pm, Sat & Sun9am1pm. Free. The Centre of


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Folk Art and Tradition houses acollection of costumes,embroidery, lace and weaving,along with musical instruments,ceramics, and icons and religiousartefacts.Appropriately, itoccupies the former home ofAngeliks Hatzimihli, a famousethnographer whosechampioning of traditionalGreek arts and crafts was one ofthe chief catalysts for theirrevival in the early twentiethcentury.The house itself designed for her in the 1920s is a large part of the attraction,with its cool, high rooms andfinely carved wooden doors,windows and staircase.At theback, narrow stairs descend tothe kitchen with its originalrange, while upstairs theres alibrary and rooms where classesare held to pass on the traditionsof crafts like embroidery andweaving.

Jewish Museum of GreeceNkis 39. wwww.jewishmuseum.gr.MonFri 9am2.30pm, Sun10am2pm. E3. Elegantlypresented in a series of dimly litrooms, with plenty ofexplanation in English, theJewish Museum tells the historyof Jews in Greece. Downstairsare art and religiousparaphernalia, many of thepieces centuries old.Thecentrepiece is the reconstructedsynagogue of Ptra, dating fromthe 1920s, whose furnishingshave been moved here en blocand remounted.

Upstairs, more recent historyincludes World War II and theGerman occupation, whenGreeces Jewish population wasreduced from almost 80,000 toless than 10,000.There are fea-tures, too, on the part played byJews in the Greek resistance, andstories of those who survivedthe Holocaust.

The Monument of Lysikratos In the southeastern corner ofPlka, the Monument ofLysikratos, a tall and gracefulstone and marble structure from335 BC, rises from a small, tri-angular open area with a coupleof quiet tavernas. Its near theend of Odhs Tripdhon, a relicof the ancient Street of theTripods, where winners ofdrama competitions erectedmonuments to dedicate theirtrophies (in the form of tripodcauldrons) to Dionysos.TheMonument of Lysikratos is theonly survivor of these triumphalmemorials.A four-metre-highstone base supports sixCorinthian columns rising up toa marble dome on which, in aflourish of acanthus-leaf carv-ings, the winning tripod wasplaced.The inscription tells usthat Lysikratos of Kikyna, son


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of Lysitheides, was choregos(sponsor); the tribe of Akamantiswon the victory with a chorusof boys;Theon played the flute;Lysiades of Athens trained thechorus; Evainetos was archon.

In the seventeenth century themonument became part of aCapuchin convent, which pro-vided regular lodgings for

European travellers Byron issaid to have written part ofChilde Harold here, and thestreet beyond,Varonos, is namedafter him.The old Street of theTripods would have continuedin this direction many impor-tant ancient Athenian buildingsare thought to lie undiscoveredin the vicinity.

Aya Ekaterni ChurchPlata Aya Ekaterni. MayOct MonFri7.30am12.30pm & 56.30pm, Sat &Sun 510pm; NovApril7.30am12.30pm, Sat & Sun 510pm.Free. St Catherines Church isone of the few in Plka thatsroutinely open.At its heart is aneleventh-century Byzantineoriginal although it has beenpretty well hidden by lateradditions.You can see it mostclearly from the back of thechurch, while in the courtyardin front are foundations of aRoman building. Inside, theover-restored frescoes lookbrand new, and there are plentyof glittering icons.

Kanellopoulou MuseumTheoras 12, cnr Pans. TuesSun8.30am3pm. E2. Though theresnothing here that you wont seeexamples of in the bigger muse-


The AnafitikaThe main arteries of Plka, above all Kydhathinon with its crowds of restau-rants and Adhriano, home of the Manchester United beach towel and Sex inAncient Greece playing cards, can become depressingly touristy. For a break,climb up into the jumble of streets and alleys that cling to the lower slopes ofthe Acropolis. There are still taverna tables set out wherever a bit of flat groundcan be found up here, but there are also plenty of quieter corners redolent of adifferent era.

The whitewashed cubist houses of Anafitika, as this quarter is known, pro-claim a cheerfully architect-free zone. Many of the haphazard buildings were orig-inally erected by workers from the island of Anfi in the southern Aegean, whowere employed in the mid-nineteenth-century construction of Athens. Unable toafford land, they took advantage of a customary law to the effect that if a roof andfour walls could be thrown up overnight, the premises were yours at sunrise.

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ums, the Kanellopoulou collec-tion, exhibited in the topmosthouse under the Acropolis, iswell worth a visit. On the lowerfloors the many gorgeous gildedicons first grab your attention,but theres also Byzantine jew-ellery, bronze oil lamps andcrosses, and Roman funeraryornaments; some of the smalleritems are exquisite.

Upstairs is ancient pottery andbronze, including items fromMinoan Crete and from Egypt,and Stone Age tools.The topfloor is perhaps the best of all,with pottery and gold jewelleryfrom the Geometric, Classical,Hellenistic and Roman periods.Items here range from someastonishingly well-preservedlarge water jars and kraters to thebronze ram from the prow of abattleship, shaped like a dogssnout.

Museum of Greek Folk Art:Man and ToolsPans 22. TuesSat 9am2pm. e2.A brand-new branch of theGreek Folk Art museum, inanother fine mansion, this isdevoted to the world of work.The exhibits of tools and anti-quated machinery concentrateon the pre-industrial world,with collections of agriculturalimplements and the like.

Turkish BathsKirstou 8. Wed & Sun 10am2pm.Free. Constructed originally inthe 1450s, though with manylater additions, the TurkishBaths were in use right up to1965. Newly restored, theyoffer an insight into a part ofAthens past that is rarelyglimpsed and are well worth alook.Traditionally, the bathswould have been used in shiftsby men and women, althoughexpansion in the nineteenth

century provided the separatefacilities you see today.Thetepidarium and caldarium, fittedout in marble with domedroofs and rooflights, areparticularly beautiful.Theunderfloor and wall heatingsystems have been exposed inplaces, while upstairs there arephotos and pictures of oldAthens. Labelling throughout isin Greek only, so it may beworth using the audio tour onoffer (e1, plus a deposit).

ShopsAmorgosKdhrou 3. A small handicraftshop filled with tastefulwoodcarvings, needlework,lamps, lace and shadowpuppets.

Cine ParisKydhathinon 22. Cult moviesshown on the rooftop, while at


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street level theres a small shopwhere you can pick up thatposter of Gone With the Wind inGreek you always hankeredafter.

CompendiumNkis 28. Long-established,friendly and good-valueEnglish-language bookshop,with a small secondhandsection; it also sells magazines.

EleftheroudakisNkis 20. Not as impressive as themain branch of this bookshopchain (see p.92), Eleftheroudakisstill has a good selection ofEnglish-language books, mapsand guides.

Elliniko SpitiKekrops 14, just off Adhriano.Amazing artworks and pieces offurniture from found materials,including driftwood metal andmarble. Probably too big to takehome (for your wallet as well asyour suitcase), but well worth alook.

Frissiras Museum ShopMons Asterou 3. Classy store inthis modern art museum sellingposters, cards and upmarketgifts.

Spyros AravandinosAdhriano 114. Perhaps theultimate tourist shop.With abranch directly opposite at no.95, between them they sellevery souvenir conceivable,from shadow puppets, spongesand shells to tacky T-shirts andpriapic Pans.

TribosAnglou Yronda 9. Alternative giftshop thats more interestingthan most, with folk art andpuppets among the hippyaccoutrements.

BarsBrettos Kydhathinon 41 t210 32 32 110. Byday a liquor store, selling mainlythe products of their own familydistillery, at night Brettos is oneof the few bars in Plka. Its asimple, unpretentious place withbarrels along one wall and ahuge range of bottles, backlit atnight, along another.

CafsDhioskouriDhioskoron, cnr Mitron. Popularcaf right on the edge of Plkaoverlooking the Agora. Simplefood salads and omelettes aswell as the inevitable frappsand cappuccinos.

Galaktopolio Iy AmaltheaTripdhon 16. Tasteful if priceydairy, serving mostly crpes aswell as non-alcoholic drinks.


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O GlykisAnglou Yronda 2. A secludedcorner under shaded trees justoff busy Kydhathinon,frequented by a young Greekcrowd. It has a mouthwateringarray of sweets, as well as coldand hot appetizer plates.

IonosAnglou Yronda 7. Good coffeesand snacks, but above all a greatplace to people-watch on thebusy Plata Filomossou Eteras.

To TristratoDhedhlou 34, cnr Anglou Yronda.Daily 2pmmidnight. Coffee, fruitjuices, salads, eggs, desserts andcakes. Exquisitely decorated butexpensive.

RestaurantsDamingos (Ta Bakaliarakia)Kydhathinon 41 t210 32 25 084.Eves only; closed mid-July to end Aug.Tucked away in a basementsince 1865, this place has dourservice, but the old-fashionedstyle (hefty barrels in the backroom filled with the familyshome vintages including amemorable retsina, excellent codwith garlic sauce and goodvalue make up for it.

DaphnesLissikrtous 4 t210 32 27 971,wwww.daphnesrestaurant.gr. If you want toimpress the in-laws, this is theplace to bring them. Everyonefrom the Clintons through half ofEuropes royalty to Angelina Joliehas eaten here and they makesure you know it. Classy Greekfood is served in an attractivecourtyard out back expect tospend at least e50 a head.

EdenLissou 12, off Mnisiklous t210 32 48858. Closed Tues. The citys oldestand classiest vegetarian restau-rant, in a retro setting on theground floor of an old mansion.Dishes include mushroom pie,chilli and soya lasagne; portionsarent huge but are very tasty.

To HniAdhriano 138 t210 32 28 966.Right in the heart of pedestri-anized Adhriano, this slightlyold-fashioned place has linentablecloths and tables in a gar-den courtyard at the rear as wellas on the street in front. Pricesare high for standard Greekfood, justified by the positionand because they often havegood traditional music.

Iy KlimatariaKlepskdhras 5 t210 32 11 215. Evesonly. Having recently celebratedits centenary, this unpretentious

and pleasanttaverna hasdecentinexpensive food,mainly grilledmeat and fish. Inwinter, yourelikely to betreated to liveguitar andaccordion music,which inspiressing-alongs by


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the mostly Greek clientele. Inthe summer, the roof opens.

NefeliPnos 24, cnr Aretosas t210 32 12475. Taverna eves only, Ouzer open allday. Delightful setting, withtables under a secluded grapearbour or in an old mansionwith a panoramic view, on apeaceful side street. Does a smallbut interesting selection ofmoderately priced classic Greekdishes such as veal and lambstamna (casserole baked in a claypot).Theres live Greek musicmost nights and a small dancefloor.The adjacent synonymousouzer, overlooking the churchof Aya Anna, is a busier localhangout favoured by youngGreeks.

Palea Taverna Tou PsarraErekhthos 16 at Erotkritou t210 3218 733. A restored old mansionin a splendid setting, on a tree-shaded and bougainvillea-drapedpedestrian crossroads.Youre bestoff sticking to the mezdhes,which include humble standardsas well as pricier seafood andfish dishes.

Palio TetradhioMnisiklous 26, cnr Thrassvoulout210 32 11 903. One of thetavernas with tables set out onthe stepped streets beneath theAcropolis.The food is a cutabove that of most of itsneighbours, though you pay forthe romantic setting.

O PlatanosDhioynous 4 t210 32 20 666. Oneof the oldest tavernas in Plka,with outdoor summer seatingunder the namesake plane treearound the corner from theRoman agora. Reasonably-priced specialities include chopsand roast lamb with artichokesor spinach and potatoes.Thebarrelled retsina is the real thing.

Skholiarhio Tripdhon 14 t210 32 47 605.Attractive, split-level taverna,also known as Ouzer Kouklis,with a perennially popularsummer terrace, screened fromthe street. It has a great selectionof mezdhes (e24 each),brought out on long trays sothat you can point to the onesthat you fancy. Especially goodare the flaming sausages, bourki(thin pastry filled with ham andcheese) and grilled aubergine,and the house red wine ispalatable and cheap.

VyzandinoKydhathinon 18, on PlataFilomossou Eteras t210 32 27 368.Reliable, traditional taverna thatstill attracts locals on this busy,touristy square.Take a look inthe kitchen at the moderatelypriced daily specials, such asstuffed tomatoes, youvtsi andthe like.


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