Sports…

From 7 September to 20 October, France will be fired up with the excitement of the matches of the Rugby World Cup 2007. In Paris Ile-de-France, where many matches will take place at the Parc des Princes and the Stade de France – including the semi-finals and the final, we’re all set to welcome you and make sure you have access to all the information you need: lots of informa-tion desks, special publica-tions, activities, big screens showing the matches... and even the Eiffel Tower lit up in the event’s colours!

Leisure…

Don’t let your visit to the re-gion pass by without explo-ring its many different sides.

From France’s newest mu-seums to Unesco World Heritage sites, from the new cabaret-lounge-club to Le Green tucked away in the forest, Paris Ile-de-France has lots of remarkable treasures for you to track down between matches.

Whether you’re a rugby fanatic or culture vulture, a shopping addict or lover of peace and quiet, there’s plenty for everyone in Paris Ile-de-France.

All you have to do is choose.

TM©RugbyWorldCupLimited1986–2007.Allrightsreserved.

A rendez vous in Paris Ile-de-France

WORLD CUP

IN & AROUNDPARIS

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TM © Rugby World Cup Limited 1986 - 2007. All rights reserved.

New ZealandScotland

ItalyRomaniaPortugal

FranceIreland

ArgentinaGeorgiaNamibia

Group C Fixtures

Date Match Venue Result

8 Sept N Zealand v Italy Marseille

9 Sept Scotland v Portugal St.Etienne

12 Sept Italy v Romania Marseille

15 Sept N Zealand v Portugal Lyon

18 Sept Scotland v Romania Edinburgh

19 Sept Italy v Portugal Paris

23 Sept Scotland v N Zealand Edinburgh

25 Sept Romania v Portugal Toulouse

29 Sept Scotland v Italy St.Etienne

29 Sept N Zealand v Romania Toulouse

Winner

Runner Up

POOL C POOL D

Group D Fixtures

Date Match Venue Result

7 Sept France v Argentina St.Denis

9 Sept Ireland v Namibia Bordeaux

11 Sept Argentina v Georgia Lyon

15 Sept Ireland v Georgia Bordeaux

16 Sept France v Namibia Toulouse

21 Sept France v Ireland St.Denis

22 Sept Argentina v Namibia Montpellier

26 Sept Georgia v Namibia Lens

30 Sept France v Georgia Marseille

30 Sept Ireland v Argentina Paris

Winner

Runner Up

Knockout stagesDate Match Teams Venue Result

13 Oct Semi Final 1 Winner QF1 v Winner QF2 St.Denis

14 Oct Semi Final 2 Winner QF3 v Winner QF4 St.Denis

19 Oct 3rd place play-off Paris

20 Oct Final St.Denis

Match Schedule

In & around parIs

Written by Mike Gerrard, donna dailey,

Hope Caton and with the paris Ile-de-France Tourist Board

TM © Rugby World Cup Limited 1986 - 2007. All rights reserved.

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W O R L D C U P

For disabled visitors The « Tourisme & Handicap » label

Sites displaying this label promise to supply reliable information and special facilities for disabled visitors. This national label is awarded only after careful evaluation and verification. Four types of disability: mobility, vision, hearing and mental. For each site with the label, you will find these pictograms to show which services are available.

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All year round, the region showcases the very best it has to offer: its incomparable historical, urban and environmental heritage and the rich human creativity of its population…

At the many shows or festivals, in which the artistic resurgence brings the finest sites in Ile-de-France dramatically to life. At the many events at museums, including the newest ones – Musée des Arts décoratifs, Musée d’Art contemporain, Musée du quai Branly… which try to outdo one another with bold approaches to their exhibitions. In the course of remarkable visits to monuments such as the keep at Vincennes or the Great Hall of Mirrors at the Château de Versailles, newly restored to their original glory.

A highlight this year of this permanent festival is of course the Rugby World Cup 2007. This great international sporting event, whose crowning moments will take place in Paris Ile-de-France, offers us a unique opportunity to share with you, along with the joys of the sport, the very best the region has to offer.

We are pleased to offer you this guide to help you make the most of this event and give you an opportunity to discover lots more.

Whether you are doing a Rugby «Tour de France» by exploring France’s other riches, or you are in Paris for the matches at the Stade de France or the Parc des Princes or you have just come to stay during the World Cup, this guide will give you lots of practical information and ideas for excursions in and around Paris. And if you don’t have time to do it all, you’ll just have to come back again!

You’ll soon see that Paris Ile-de-France always has plenty of surprises in store…

Have a lovely stay, enjoy the matches, and welcome to Paris Ile-de-France!

The Paris Ile-de-France Regional Tourist Board

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Practical 6Paris map 10Stade de France ® 16Saint-Denis 14Parc des Princes 18Rugby bars in central Paris 20Sights 22Food & Drink 46Paris nightlife 54Shopping 56Around Paris 64

The tournament opens in Saint-Denis at the Stade de France® with France v Argentina on Friday 7 September, fol-lowed by South Africa v Samoa at Parc des Princes on Sunday 9 September. Two of the tournament’s most exciting contests will be held at the Stade de France®: England v South Africa on Friday 14 September, and France v Ireland on the following Friday 21 September. The Pool C and Pool D quarterfinal battle will be staged at the Stade de France® as will the semi-finals and the thrilling final on 20 October.

Directions and maps to the stadiums are on the next few pages together with details of the planned rugby festival and beer gardens in Saint-Denis. Fans and followers without tickets will be able to watch the tournament on large screens in the rugby bars of central Paris. At the time of printing, large screens are planned for the Hotel de Ville and a Rugby Village is planned to be located under the Eiffel Tower.

From the first match to the action-packed final, Paris will be hosting the most important matches of Rugby World Cup 2007.

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ArrondissementsParis is organised into districts called arrondissements. It is useful to acquaint yourself with the system because Paris-ians refer to them when giving directions and they feature in maps.

Arrondissements are numbered from 1-20 and are arranged in a spiral shape. Each arrondissement has its own char-acter – the first arrondissement is the oldest and is at the centre of the spiral, the 2nd is the financial district, the 4th takes in Notre-Dame, Hotel de Ville and the Marais, the 5th and 6th include Saint-Germain with its many bars and restaurants, the 8th is the posh business and hotel district, and Montmartre is in the 18th arrondissement.

MapsThe best Paris maps are the easy-to-read pocketbooks called Paris Circulation, with 70 maps, street finder, metro and RER maps, sold in most news kiosks for €5.

Finding outile-de-France information Centre (espace du Tourisme d’ile-de-France)Multilingual tourist information and telephone booking service, tourist litera-ture, coach, bus, metro, RER and train tickets, sale of the Paris Museum Pass, bookings for accommodation, package tours, excursions and shows.Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli Place de la Pyramide Inversée Metro: Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre 0826 166 666 (€0.15/min) www.pidf.com

ile-de-France information Centre in Disneyland Resort paris (espace du Tourisme d’ile-de-France)Place François Truffaut - 77705 Chessy 01 60 �� �� ��

paris Convention and Visitors Bureau (Office du Tourisme et des Congrès de paris)Main office 25 rue des Pyramides – Metro: Pyramides 0892 68 3000 (€0.34/min) www.parisinfo.com

Metro (see map inside the cover)Trains are usually frequent but can be very crowded during rush hour which occurs about 6-7pm. Though the metro has 14 lines, chances are that few will travel direct to your destination and you will have to transfer. This may entail walking up and down stairs as Paris metro stations often are not equipped with escalators or elevators. Generally, choosing a smaller station will involve less walking.

Single tickets can be purchased for €1.50 at machines in the stations or in books of 10 un carnet for €11.10. Queues can be long and the instructions confusing for non-French speakers.

Paris Visite cardA Paris Visite card gives you complete freedom to travel when and where you want on the networks covered. Consist-ing of a card and a coupon, this travel pass allows you unlimited journeys over the whole network in Île-de- France: Metro, RER, Bus, Tramway, SNCF suburban rail services, the Montmartre funicular, Montmartrobus, Noctilien and buses on the Optile network, depending on the zones selected. Places you can go include: Disneyland Resort Paris, Châ-teau de Versailles and even Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Valid 1, 2, 3 or 5 days for the zones covered. www.parisvisite.com

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TrainsParis has two train systems: a commuter fast train called the RER and a city-wide underground service, the metro.

RER train lines are distinguished by letter while metro lines are numbered. Routes on both networks are identified by colour and the direction is indicated by the last stop. For example, to travel to the Stade de France®, take metro line 13 (light blue) in the direction of Saint-Denis Université and alight at Saint-Denis Porte de Paris.

Paris’ first tram system came on stream in December 2006 and now serves three arrondissements in the south of the city. This fast, comfortable and modern form of transport has brought with it some significant transformations to the urban scene, turning the Boulevard des Maréchaux Sud into an attractive urban promenade. Keep an eye out for the nine contemporary works of art by internationally renowned artists along the route... www.tramway.paris.fr

Transilien leisure pass (Forfait loisirs Transilien)Ticket at special prices combining a return SNCF rail journey + admission to tourist attractions in Ile-de-France belonging to the scheme. Tickets are sold all year round for the Châteaux of Versailles, Fontainebleau and Auvers-sur-Oise. In high season, you can get to France Miniature, Parc Astérix and Mer de Sable in the same way. www.transilien.com

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Guided tours / coach services / minibuses• Artventures119 rue Manin01 �2 06 9� 71www.artventures-paris.com• Cityrama2 rue des Pyramides01 �� �� 60 00www.pariscityrama.com• Driver Guide France36 rue Sambre et Meuse01 �2 �0 7� ��www.driverguidefrance.com• euroscope27 rue Taitbout01 �6 0� �6 80www.euroscope.fr• France Tourisme5 avenue de la Grande Armée01 �� 02 88 �0www.francetourisme.fr• Les Cars Rouges17 quai de Grenelle01 �� 9� �9 ��www.carsrouges.com• paris l’openTour13 rue Auber01 �2 66 �6 �6www.paris-opentour.com• paris Vision214 rue de Rivoli01 �2 60 �0 01www.parisvision.com• not a Tourist Destination32 rue Pastourelle01 �0 27 82 11www.notatouristdestination.com

Museums and monuments: a user’s guide

paris Museum passThis Pass gives you multiple-entry admission to more than 60 museums and monuments in the region, without having to queue, including entry to the permanent collections of museums. There are three options available, valid for 2, 4 or 6 consecutive days. From €30 to €60 depending on option chosen. www.parismuseumpass.fr

Free for under 18sAdmission is free for under 18s in 16 monuments in and around Paris.

• In Paris : Arc de Triomphe – Chapelle expiatoire – the Conciergerie – Sainte-Chapelle – Notre-Dame Cathedral – the Panthéon – Manufacture des Gobelins.

• Around Paris : Château de Maisons – Villa Savoye – Maison de Gambetta – Domaine national de Saint-Cloud – Château de Rambouillet – Chaumière aux coquillages and Laiterie de la Reine – Château de Vincennes – Château de Champs-sur-Marne – Basilique de Saint-Denis, burial-place of the kings of France. www.monum.fr

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remember to purchase your transport tickets well in advance of the match to save time queuing.

stadium toursZAC du Cornillon Nord www.stadefrance.com0892 700 900 (€0,34/min) 10.00-18.00 daily, hourly till 17.00 except during eventsmeet at Gate H€10 adults, €7 children The behind-the- scenes tour takes in the VIP rooms, players’ locker rooms and the edge of the pitch. There is a museum about the construction of the stadium with details on the technology used to build it.

the stade de france ® from saint-denis. architects: michel macary, aymeric zublena, michel regembal, claude costantini

The stadium and aroundZAC du Cornillon Nord www.stadefrance.com0892 700 900

This stadium holds a special place in French hearts for it was here that France won the coveted FIFA World Cup in 1998. It is passionately hoped by the country’s rugby fans that the magic will be repeated for ‘Les Bleus’ in 2007.

The Stade de France® was only commissioned once France had been granted the rights to host FIFA World Cup in 1998. The stadium was designed by four architects: Michel Macary, Aymeric Zubléna, Michel Regembal, Claude Costantini. It was completed in 31 months at a cost of €400 million, jointly financed by private interests and the French State.

The Stade is equipped with state-of-the-art technology and sound reinforcement to ensure that every spectator can see and hear clearly.

Every summer the interior is transformed into a beach and in winter it becomes a ski resort.

Getting to the stadiumnearest stations • La Plaine-Stade de France, RER line B.• Saint-Denis Porte de Paris, metro line 13.

nearest airportCharles de Gaulle is located north-east of Paris on the RER line B3.

Car Motorways A1, A3, A86. Those travelling by car are advised to use public carparks in the city, available and well-indicated, then go to the stadium on foot or by public transport.

For those who have reserved parking, the carpark entrance is near Gate H.

Trains• eurostar Arrives at the Gare du Nord. Take RER B one stop north to Stade de France.• TGV Arrives at Charles de Gaulle, change to RER. • ReR Line B to La Plaine-Stade de France. Line D to Stade de France Saint-Denis. Walk or take bus 139 to Avenue du Stade de France.

MetroThe metro line 13 Saint-Denis Porte de Paris stop is directly north of the stadium. Journey time 25 minutes from central Paris.

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saint-Denis 2007 Rugby FestivalMetro: Saint-Denis – Porte de Paris

The city of Saint-Denis is pulling out all the stops to welcome international fans during Rugby World Cup 2007.

Village saint-Denis RugbycolorThe main area, especially developed for the event, is an 8,000 sq metre village to be located near the Stade de France®, adjacent to the metro station. It will be open at weekends during the tourna-ment and promises to be a festive place with outdoor (under tents) restaurants, a giant screen broadcasting all the matches of Rugby World Cup 2007, and street entertainment.

opening weekend The village will open on Thursday 6 Sep-tember and matches will be broadcast on giant screens from Friday 7 Septem-ber. A street party with concerts and fireworks will be held on the evening of Saturday 8 September to inaugurate the village.

Festival Planète RugbyFree music concerts are scheduled to take place every weekend. On days that matches are held at the Stade de France® concerts are planned before and after the match. On non-match days, concerts are planned for weekend evenings, beginning at 7pm or 9pm. At press time, the programme had not been

saint-Denis tourism websitewww.ville-saint-denis.fr

Tourist Office1 rue de la République01 �� 87 08 7009.�0-18.00 Mon-Sat10.00-16.00 Sunclosed for lunch

confirmed, but the following artists are expected to perform: Kasabian, Gotan Project, Johnny Clegg and the Soweto Gospel Choir, Carlos Nunez…

near the stadium

paddywacks irish pub4 boulevard Anatole France; Saint-Denis01 �2 �� 10 7� www.paddywacks-pub.com A traditional Irish pub a few hun-dred yards from the Stade de France. It is hosting lots of activities during the Rugby World Cup 2007, with big screens for watching the matches.

Large screens Beer GardensRestaurantssports debatesFree concertsRugby parkFireworks

a previous concert held at saint-denis

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saint-ouenBetween Paris and Saint-Denis, Saint-Ouen is famous the world over for its flea market. This huge mar-ket of antiques, new and secondhand goods will be especially busy with the third World Antiques Fair from 4-7 October. This major gathering of European dealers followed by a festive weekend is also an opportunity to see the exhibition “l’Art en move-ment” in the flea market’s alleyways and antique stores, where among 10 contemporary artists, French Rugby legend Jean-Pierre Rives is exhibiting his steel sculptures, a nod at Rugby World Cup 2007. Also worth noting, the Maison Basque de paris is celebrating Rugby World Cup 2007 (live matches, themed evenings) and on 14 October, l’espace 1789 will host a concert of traditional music performed by the New Zealand group “Te Vaka”.

. Flea MarketMetro: Porte de Clignancourt – www.parispuces.com• Maison Basque de paris – 59 avenue Gabriel PériMetro: Garibladi01 40 10 11 11 – www.eskualetxea.com• espace 1789 – 2-4 rue A. Bachelet01 �0 11 �0 2�Metro: Garibaldi or Mairie de Saint-Ouenwww.espace-1789.com

saint-Denis One of the oldest villages around Paris was founded in the third century on the site of the burial-place of Saint-Denis. The relics of the saint are kept in the Basilique saint-Denis and it is here that all the kings of France are interred, along with the remains of other illustrious figures such as Catherine de Medici and Marie-Antoinette. The basilica dates from 1140 and is the oldest Gothic church in France. The crypt is even older and was first consecrated by Charlemagne in 775.

Saint-Denis was the first to bring the news of Jesus Christ to Roman Gaul. He was the first Bishop of Paris during the time of the Roman persecutions and like many early Christians was martyred for his faith. Saint-Denis was decapitated on Montmartre (mount of the martyrs) but he did not die. The legend says he picked up his head and carried it as he walked, headless and barefoot, all the way to the village that then would take his name.

Basilique de saint-Denis 10.00-18.15 daily 12.00-18.1� Sunclosed 1 hour earlier Oct-Mar €6.10

parc de La Villettewww.villette.cominside the Périphérique between porte de Pantin and porte de la Villette metro: Porte de la Villette, Porte de Pantin10.00-18.00 daily, closed Mon

La Villette is the largest urban park in Paris. It was created in 1979 on 55 hectares of industrial wasteland on the borders of the 19th arrondissement and Seine-Saint-Denis. There is always something going on in the park and the website is kept regularly updated in French and English with listings of all activities.

Cité des sciences. France is a world leader in technological innovation and this is celebrated in this excellent national museum of science and technology. With over 30,000 sq metres of exhibition space there is plenty to explore and many exhibits are designed to be interactive.

First floor exhibits: Aeronautics, Automobiles, Space, Human body, Environment, Water and Oceans. Second floor: Biology, Stars and Galaxies, Light illusions, Medicine, Rocks and Volcanoes.

The museum’s large windows offer views across the park, which include a mirrored geodesic dome, La Géode. The dome houses a 400-seat cinema with a hemispherical screen.

At the south end of the park is the Cité de la Musique, a state-of-the-art music centre with concert halls, rehearsal studios and the Musée de la Musique with a collection of over 1,000 instruments.

Cité des scienceswww.cite-sciences.fr/english10.00-18.00 Tue-Sat, 10.00-19.00 Sunclosed Mon€7.50 adults, €7 under 25s, Planetarium €3

La Géode 10.30-21.30 Tue, Thu-Sat10.30-20.30 Wed, Sunhourly show €9 Cité de la Musique12.00-18.00 Tue-Sat, 10.00-18.00 Sun

new!A perfect example of an industrial building suc-cessfully converted into a cultural venue, the Grande Halle de La Villette reopens in September after years of renovation work. A key element of the park, this characteristic Baltard building of iron and glass is home to a major exhibi-tion devoted to mankind and the animal world.

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remember to purchase your transport tickets well in advance of the match to save time queuing.

Getting to the stadiumParc des Princes is located just outside the Périphérique near the Bois de Boulogne.

nearest airports • Charles de Gaulle Located northeast of Paris on the RER line B. Take RER B to St-Michel Notre-Dame and change to metro line 10. • orly Located south of Paris with a connection to RER B at Antony.

Car The Périphérique exits of Porte de St-Cloud or Porte d’Auteuil are closest to the stadium. Use public carparks in and around the city, available and well-indicated, and then go to the stadium on foot or by public transport.

Trains • eurostar

Arrives at the Gare du Nord, take metro line 4 to Strasbourg Saint-Denis, transfer to metro line 9. • TGV Arrives at Charles de Gaulle, take RER B to St-Michel Notre-Dame, change to metro line 10. • ReR Line C to Javel or Gare d’Austerlitz and change to metro line 9.

MetroLine 9 (Pont de Sèvres) exit Porte de St-Cloud or line 10 (Boulogne) exit Porte d’Auteuil.

The stadium and around24 avenue du commandant Guilbaud

The oval design of Parc des Princes makes for excellent views for the fans but creates an intimidating atmosphere for visiting players. Inaugarated in 1972, the stadium was designed for comfort and visibility by Roger Taillibert.

Paris’ premier league rugby team, Stade Français, plays its international matches here to ever-increasing crowds. Its home stadium is actually Stade Jean Bouin, located nearby. Pre-game and half-time entertainment often features well choreographed chorus lines of beautiful can-can girls dressed in elaborate costumes inspired by famous Paris cabarets.

In addition to soccer and rugby, the stadium also hosts the Supercross, antique fairs, and a winter snow park.

Bars and restaurants near the stadium

Les princes6 place du Docteur Paul Michaux (at the bottom end of Avenue du Parc des Princes) 01 �6 �1 0� 88Metro: Porte de St-CloudHaving as its proprietors current France international and Stade Français winger Christophe Dominici and former international Christophe Juillet, you can guess that Les Princes is a very rugby-friendly bar indeed. It’s in the perfect location right next to the sta-dium, with reasonably priced beer and food.

Aux Trois obus120 rue Michel-Ange Metro: Porte de St-Cloud 01 �6 �1 22 �8Well located next to the metro and very close to the stadium entrance.

Le stade2 rue du Commandant-Guilbaud01 �0 71 22 22www.lestade-restaurant.comThis bar/restaurant owned and managed by rugby players Pieter de Villiers and Sylvain Marconnet, caters to hungry sports fans at lunch and in the evenings. They also own a wine company, Trésors du Cap.

psG24 rue du Commandant-Guilbaud 01 �7 �� 72 ��The real name of this restaurant seems to be Le 70 after the year that PSG (Paris Saint-Germain football club) was founded. True to its name, this venue shamelessly maintains extreme 1970s décor with lime-green plastic-roofed booths and an illuminated blue bar.

le stade restaurant

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Bars in central paris

Rugby bars

1st arrondissement

Le sous Bock 49 rue St Honoré; metro: Châtelet01 �0 26 �6 61 09.00-05.00 daily; meals lunch & dinnerFormer rugby player Frédéric Beurq proudly displays his trophy and winning ball in a case beside the entrance of his large establishment. Though it appears to be quite small from the front, there is a large seating area at the back and another in the cellar. For Rugby World Cup 2007, Frédéric is busy re-upholstering the seats in team colours: red for Wales, blue for France, green for Ireland, black for New Zealand.

Café oz 18 rue Saint-Denis; metro: Châtelet01 �0 �9 00 18An Australian bar where rugby players from the Sorbonne team drink. The huge wooden chairs and booths resemble something out of a medieval castle. There are large screens and you can’t miss the rugby posters. They serve a large range of beer but the service could be better.

2nd arrondissement

Le Louis d’or 3 rue de la Bourse; metro: Bourse 01 �2 97 �8 89 08.00-01.00 daily; meals lunch & dinnertapas all hoursA devoted Biarritz supporter, Louis closed the street to host a massive celebration when they won the French championship. On tap are two Basque beers and tapas are served Basque style – plates arrive piled high with slices of baguette topped with sausage, paté and hot chillies.

Kitty o’shea’s 10 rue des Capucines; metro: OpéraThe most popular Irish bar in Paris has long been a favourite with rugby players and fans. Owner Brian Loughney is well-known in rugby circles and members of the Irish team have been spotted here, as have the VISA rugby legends. Irish supporters are sure to be here in droves throughout the tournament.

The Black Bear 161 rue Montmartre; metro: BourseA relative new-comer, this large bar is owned by former rugby stars Jean-Pierre Rives and Paperemborde. It is decorated with the usual rugby memoribilia, with some unusual items such as Eric Cantona’s Manchester United shirt and cricketer Ian Botham’s pads. There are plenty of large screens around the bar and plenty of beer on tap.

6th arrondissement

eden park 10 rue Princesse; metro: MabillonA cool and trendy rugby bar owned by the clothing company founded by French rugby players Franck Mesnel and Eric Blanc.

8th arrondissement

Le Rugby Bar 2 rue Roquepine; metro: Saint Augustin01 �2 6� �8 ��Open until 4am on match days, this is another shrine to rugby whose patrón hails from the south-west of France. Stade Francais suppor-ters form the core of a large and varied crowd of rugbymen. Good beer and a central location make this venue well worth a visit.

15th arrondissement

Au Metro 18 boulevard Pasteur; metro: Pasteur01 �7 �� 21 2�Players from the French and Parisian teams often come to this rugby-themed bar right next to the Pasteur station. The owner Jean-Pierre Mourin is from rugby country in the French south-west but has brought his passion to Paris. Jean-Pierre will be keeping his bar open 24 hours during the semi-final and final games.

sports bars4th arrondissement

The Auld Alliance 80 rue François Miron Metro: St Paul01 �8 0� �0 �0open till 02.00; food not servedA large Scottish pub with big screens and a selection of 150 pure Scottish malts.

6th arrondissement

Cafe ‘Le Conti’ 1 rue de Buci Metro: Mabillon01 �� 26 68 1�07.00-05.00 daily; continous food serviceThough not a rugby bar per se, Le Conti is a friendly sports bar with a tradition of welcoming English speaking fans. It has three screens, seating areas upstairs and a large outdoor section. Barman Arnaud speaks English and will give you a friendly hello.

Le Buci 52 rue Dauphine; metro: Mabillon 01 �� 26 67 �206.30-04.00 daily continous food serviceThis is a typical French style bar with most seating facing outwards onto the street and along the pavement. Inside are three screens showing rugby matches. Service is also typi-cally Parisian – brusque but efficient.

9th arrondissement

o’sullivans irish pub 1 boulevard Montmarte Metro: Grands Blvds01 �0 26 7� �112.00-05.00 Fri-Sat, 12.00-02.00 Sun-ThuOne of the largest Irish bars in Paris with plenty of big screens and leather upholstered seating.

18th arrondissement

Corcoran’s pub 110 boulevard Clichy Metro: Place de Clichy01 �2 2� 00 �0This Irish pub is always packed for rugby matches and attracts an international crowd that often spills out onto the pavement.

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A magic triangle!République, Bastille, Oberkampf: in the 11th arrondissement, this is a district that likes to party. Just take a look at all the bars and restaurant scattered along rue Oberkampf for instance. There’s no better place to dance, have a drink and make new friends!

The seine The first people settled on the banks of the Seine about 2,300 years ago, choosing a spot on the Île de la Cité well-used by travellers. It was a handy place to cross the river, with the island in the centre narrowing the waters.

Stand on Pont Neuf and wipe the city from your mind. Picture the once simple village. Then imagine the City of Light growing and spreading around it through the centuries – the huge edifice of Notre-Dame looming over the river, and later the royal palace rising on the right bank, which now houses the Musée du Louvre.

The river and its bridges may no longer be the lifeblood of the city as they once were, but they are still a magical part of Paris life. Find time to walk the banks of the river, and cross from side to side over the old and the newer bridges. Each has a story to tell, pieces of the mosaic that make up the city of Paris. Pont Neuf or New Bridge was built in 1607 and is now the oldest surviving bridge across the Seine. It was opened

on the riverThe river was once the prime form of transport in Paris when everything clustered along its banks. Now it is an often neglected means of transport. Yet who would prefer being under the ground or stuck in traffic when they could be gliding along on the Seine?

A Parisian Batobus cruises the river from April till December, taking a relaxing thirty minutes or so to visit the eight stops from the Port de la Bourdonnais, near the Eiffel Tower, to the Jardin des Plantes, east of Notre-Dame at the Pont de Sully. Note that boats travel in an anti-clockwise circle, calling at places on the left bank first and then the right bank.

A Bateau Mouche is a huge boat that car-ries tourists along the river. Passengers are seated facing outwards for the best views of the sights lining the Seine. A Parisian wouldn’t be seen dead on one of these cruises but in fact they are well worth doing and, as happens world-wide, a visitor will see more of a city in a few days than a local might in a year.

Bateaux parisiens 0 825 01 01 01 (€0.15/min) www.bateauxparisiens.com

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Vedettes de paris 01 44 18 19 50; www.vedettesdeparis.com

Vedettes du pont neuf 01 �6 �� 98 �8 www.vedettesdupontneuf.com

Batobus 0 825 01 01 01 (€0.15/min) www.batobus.com

by King Henri IV racing across it on his horse and was the first pedestrian bridge in Paris with no dwellings on it. Every summer, the right bank of the Seine from here to Île St-Louis is turned into Paris Plage, a beach in the centre of the city. Word is the Plage has made Parisians more casual, to the point of no longer wearing ties in the summer heat.

Pont Alexandre III was built for the Paris Exposition of 1900 to provide a crossing from the left bank to the newly-built Grand Palais and Petit Palais. Cross towards the left bank for the best view of the Hôtel des Invalides and the Dôme Church under which lies Napoleon’s Tomb.

Other bridges, other views: • Pont de la Concorde towards the Place de la Concorde with the Egyptian obelisk at its centre; • from the Trocadéro over the Pont d’Iéna during the day for the second-best view of the Eiffel Tower; • the same bridge at night, when the tower is lit up.

There are regular daytime trips and spe-cial lunch and dinner cruises when the boats turn into romantic floating restau-rants. People dress smartly for dinner and the cost is on the expensive side, but the food can be quite good.

Bateaux Vedettes are smaller boats with no food served on board. These older vessels have forward-facing seats with commen-tary provided by tourism students.

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Énotre-DamePlace du Parvis-Notre-DameMetro: Cité, St-Michel Notre-Dame01 �� 10 07 02

07.45-18.45 daily, free

Notre-Dame is the spiritual heart of France and the country’s most impor-tant cathedral. Look up at the facade and you can well believe there’s still a hunchback swinging around up there among the gargoyles, or that a king is about to be crowned inside.

The imagination that created The Hunch-back of Notre-Dame belongs to the same man that launched the campaign to save the cathedral: Victor Hugo. The novel’s hero is Quasimodo, a tortured bell-ringer at the cathedral who falls in

love with the gypsy girl, Esmeralda. The hunchback is first under the control of the evil archdeacon, but Quasimodo is slowly transformed by the kindness of Esmeralda to rebel against his evil mas-ter. In the end, Quasimodo makes the ultimate sacrifice for love.

Wen the book was published in 1831, the cathedral had been crumbling into ruin for some time. Walls were in such poor repair they were hidden behind tapes-tries for the coronation of Napoleon and Josephine, a ceremony attended by Pope Pius VII. Hugo launched the campaign to save Notre-Dame and work began in 1841. It took 23 years to restore the cathedral.

Over the centuries many notable people have walked through the central doors: Mary Queen of Scots was crowned Queen of France after her marriage to François II; Henry VI of England added the crown of France to his titles; and Charles I of England was married here. Walk through those doors and you are walking through the history of Europe.

Building Notre-Dame took 170 years from the time Pope Alexander III laid the foundation stone in 1163. Teams of master craftsmen laboured continously, sometimes several generations of the same family were involved. Look for the three great rose windows, in the north and south walls, and in the west wall over the entrance. The window in the north wall still has its original 13th-century stained glass. To the left of the entrance are the stairs to the north tower, where 387 steps take you up to dramatic views over Paris.

In the square in front of Notre-Dame is the almost-hidden entrance to the Crypte Archéologique. Below ground (many of Paris’s most interesting places are below street level) are Roman remains, the remnants of medieval streets and a fascinating scale model showing the development of the city.

Île de la CitéMetro: Cité

The ‘island of the city’ is just that: the island where the city was born. Paris owes its name to a Celtic tribe called the Parisii, who settled here in 300BC. This tiny island in the Seine is not only the location of Notre-Dame, but also houses the law courts, the Palais de Justice, and the police headquarters, the Conciergerie, where the famous fictional Frenchman, Inspector Maigret, was based.

The point of land on the west tip of the island is called the square du Vert Galand. Sit in the sun on the point or relax on a bench around a grassy area lined with shady trees. Stairs lead down from Pont Neuf. A Seine river cruise

departs from here and refreshments are available at their kiosk. There is also a fountain with drinking water where you can fill your bottle.

At the western end of the island, visit the Conciergerie, a Gothic palace where Marie-Antoinette and others were held prior to their dates with Madame Guillotine during the French Revolution.

Incongrously set inside the Palais de Justice is sainte-Chapelle, another Gothic masterpiece. This one is a visual symphony in stained glass: 15 stained-glass windows soar up towards a vaulted roof, covered in stars, some 15m (50ft) above your head. Be aware that a security check is required to enter the Palais de Justice.

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eiffel TowerChamps de Mars RER C: Champ de Mars – Tour Eiffel Metro: École Militaire 01 �� 11 2� �� or 01 �� 11 2� 2� (recorded information) www.tour-eiffel.fr lifts: 09.30-23.45 daily

€11 to the top, less for lower levels only. Last ascent is earlier than closing time, depending on the level and the time of year. The steps close earlier.

to avoid queues arrive first thing in the morning, or later at nightWhen the Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 for the Universal Exhibition, many people were appalled at the prospect of a 320m (1,050ft) high tower made of iron girders filling the sky over the newly-elegant Paris streets. Revered architect Baron Von Haussmann had only just completed his 18-year beautification of Paris in 1870, and here was an engineer, Gustave Eiffel, proposing to vandalise the skyline by creating the world’s tall-est building! Sacre bleu! Feelings were summed up by the writer Maupassant who said that he consented to dine at the Eiffel Tower only because it was the one place in the city where he didn’t have to look at it.

Today, almost 120 years later, Gustave’s tower is still here, looking fabulous and now the symbol not only of Paris but of France. Recognised the world over, it was chosen by the French State to mark the millennium on 1 January 2000, with a spectacular lightshow and fireworks thought by many to have been the best display in the world. For those visiting Paris for the first time, the tower is the one thing they have to see. Indeed, as obvious and as touristy as it is, you sim-ply haven’t been to Paris until you’ve been to the top of the Eiffel Tower.

On the way up in the lift, you might mull over some facts. The lifts are the originals from 1889, and travel 100,000km (62,000 miles) each year, transporting people up and down between the three levels.

Eiffel’s precise engi-neering means the top of the tower doesn’t sway more than about 12cm (4.5 in) even in very strong winds. This stability is largely thanks to the 2.5 mil-lion rivets that fasten the 18,000 metal parts. These are made to withstand the August heat which can increase the tower’s size by 15 cm (6 in) on the hottest days.

If you get to the tower and the queues are really long, try climb-ing the 360 steps to the first level and getting into the lifts there. If you’re feeling fit, you can even walk another 700 steps to take you up to the second level, but you have to use the lifts to go to the top level where you’ll find various displays and a viewing gallery, from where, on the prover-bial clear day, you can see for up to 80 km (50 miles).

Musée du quai Branly27-37 quai BranlyMetro: Alma-Marceau, Iéna, Bir Hakeim01 �6 61 70 00 www.quaibranly.fr10.00-18.30, Thu evening until 21.30; closed Mon, 01/01, 01/05 and 25/12The new Musée du quai Branly at the foot of the Eiffel Tower is a showcase for the arts, cultures and civilisations of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. The museum invites you to discover masks, costumes, musical instru-ments and textiles from its collection of 3,500 objects. The exhibits are interspersed with interactive terminals and there are 8 multimedia installations presenting music, tattooing and rituals among other things. Through its programme of contemporary art, dance and music, with traditional or modern performances, the museum reflects the current vitality of non-European arts and civilisations.

A cultural mix at quai BranlyFrom 1 September to 20 October and in connection with the Rugby World Cup 2007, the museum is offering a cultural and scientific programme of discovery of the participating nations represented in its collections: theme-based tours, 20 nations picnic, singing events (national anthems), dances (Haka), music…, talks on rugby-related subjects (the game, the profession, the rituals, etc), cinema, documentary, photo exhibitions, and more.The museum’s roof is laid out as a rugby ground in the colours of the championship teams.In short, everything you need for an insight into the diversity of nations involved in the game of the Oval Ball.

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eArc de TriomphePlace Charles-de-Gaulle Metro: Charles de Gaulle Étoile 01 �� �7 7� 77 10.00-23.00 daily (closes 22.30 Oct-Mar) €7

There’s more to this grandiose archway than immediately meets the eye. Based on Emperor Constantine’s arch in Rome, it was built to celebrate Napoleon’s triumph at the Battle of Austerlitz on 2 December 1805. Each 2 Decem-ber, the sun sets in line with the Champs-Élysées and throws the arch’s shadow down the street towards the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, in front of the Louvre, designed in perfect alignment with the Arc de Triomphe. In 1989, a third trium-phal arch was added to the alignment: the Grande Arche at La Défense, in the business district in the west of Paris.

Below the Arc de Triomphe is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and a small but enjoyable museum telling the story of the arch and providing close ups of the shields and friezes covering the monument. A new museum design based on soundtracks and visuals takes the visitor on a jour-ney through the building’s history, from the laying of its first stone to the themes of war and peace…

Musée de la MarinePalais de Chaillot17 place du TrocadéroMetro: Trocadéro01 �� 6� 69 69www.musee-marine.fr10.00-18.00; closed Tue, 01/05, 25/12 & 01/01

The epic of fabulous three-masters, the odyssey of steamships, the legendary destiny of ocean liners... Opposite the

Eiffel Tower, this museum – based on a collection given to Louis XV – relates the saga of all manner of ships.

Musée des Arts Asiatiques - Guimet6 place d’IénaMetro: Boissière, Iéna, Trocadéro01 �6 �2 �� 00www.museeguimet.fr10.00-18.00; closed Tue, 25/12, 01/01 & 01/05Despite being one of the world’s lead-ing museums of Asian arts, the Musée Guimet remains a surprisingly haven of peace. Its art and archaeology col-lections take you on a journey from Afghanistan to Japan, from the 2nd millennium BC to the 19th century.

palais de Tokyo13 avenue du Président-WilsonMetro: Iéna, Alma-Marceau01 �7 2� �8 86www.palaisdetokyo.com12.00 to midnight; closed on Mon, 01/01, 01/05 and 25/12The Palais de Tokyo is a showcase for the vitality of contemporary artistic creation, offering exhibitions, events, meetings, videos and music. Open until midnight, this art centre is in tune with city life.

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Grand palais3 avenue du Général-EisenhowerMetro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau, Franklin-Roosevelt01 �� 1� 17 17www.rmn.fr/galeriesnationalesdugrandpalais• Palais de la découverte01 �6 �� 20 21www.palais-decouverte.fr• Nef du Grand Palaiswww.grandpalais.fr

Following Herculean con-struction work, the Grand Palais has been restored to its former glory. Built in 1900, this architectural gem houses the Palais de la Découverte science museum, the Galeries natio-nales du Grand Palais, a venue for major exhibitions “Design against Design” on the history of design trends, from the end of September, and “Gustave Courbet” in mid-October), as well as the impressive central bay (Le Nef) in which events are held such as the Fiac inter-national contemporary art fair, cultural events, fashion shows, performances... The Grand Palais is thus reverting to its original purpose as one of the main centres of Parisian cultural life.

Cité de l’architecture et du patrimoinePalais de Chaillot 1 place du Trocadéro et du 11 NovembreMetro: Trocadéro, Iéna01 �8 �1 �2 00www.citechaillot.frOpening in September, the new Cité de l’architecture et du patrimoine will be one of the world’s biggest architec-tural centres. It tells the story of French architecture from the 12th century on, as well as showcasing contemporary architecture. Along with its perma-nent collections, the museum will host temporary exhibitions, seminars, confer-ences and discussions.

attention in rooms packed with art. Even dividers between rooms have display cases tucked into them; one showcases a rare Etruscan bronze.

If you only want to spend a few hours and be sure to see the masterpieces, arrive early and be prepared to climb stairs. Begin in the Sully wing on the ground floor. This outstanding sculpture gallery includes the sensuous Venus de Milo and the powerful Winged Victory of Samothrace.

Continuing on the sculpture trail, visit Michelangelo in the Denon wing, then climb the steps to the first floor for the Italian Renaissance collection with Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. The art-ist carried the painting with him on his

Ground floor Venus de Milo Sully wing, room 12Winged Victory of Samothrace Denon wing, Escalier DaruMichelangelo Denon wing, room 4First floor Mona Lisa Denon wing, room 6Géricault Denon wing, room 77Delacroix Denon wing, room 77Second floorVermeer Richelieu wing, room 38Rubens Richelieu wing, room 18Durer Richelieu wing, room 8Rembrandt Richelieu wing, room 31Watteau Sully wing, room 36Fragonard Sully wing, room 48Ingres Sully wing, room 60

Musée du LouvreRue de RivoliMetro: Louvre Rivoli01 �0 20 �0 �0 and 01 40 20 51 51 (for recorded information)www.louvre.fr09.00-18.00 daily till 21.45 Wed & Friclosed Tue €8.50; free admission: 18.00-21.45 Fri & first Sun of the month

TicketsPurchase your ticket in advance (at least the day before) and plan to arrive early in the morning or else late on a Wednesday or Friday. Tickets can be obtained from: Virgin Megastore (Carrousel du Louvre, next to the Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli).Once you’ve got your tickets, pick up a museum plan at the Louvre’s information desk. This shows you where the most popular exhibits are to be found, and marks the museum entrances. Mona LisaThe entrance nearest to the Mona Lisa is not the main entrance beneath the glass pyramid (you can enjoy this on your way out so don’t let it detain you) but at the Porte des Lions. This is on the south side of the museum, west of the Pont du Carrousel. Then proceed directly to the Salles des États (room 6).

If you visited the Louvre every day for a year, and were able to view one hundred pieces of art each day, you would eventually see every object in the museum’s vast collection. The Louvre holds 35,000 pieces of art, spread over four floors of a large palace. Each floor is divided into three zones corresponding to areas or wings of the palace: sully, Denon and Richelieu.

The lower ground floor holds Islamic, Egyptian and part of the Greek collections along with classical statuary from French collections. On the ground floor is Near Eastern, Oriental, Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities. The first floor comprises Napoleon III’s apartments, Egyptian arte-facts and an outstanding collection of Italian and French Renaissance paintings (go to room 6 for the Mona Lisa). The second floor displays Dutch and Flemish masters together with French paintings from the Baroque era.

There are so many highlights in the Louvre that it is hard to know where to begin. Sculpture and paintings vie for your

travels around Italy and it was with him when he died in France. The sitter has never been identified and Leonardo himself never considered it finished.

Much of the Louvre’s spectacular col-lection of Italian art was acquired by Napoleon, who, together with his army, conquered the principalities of Italy, dismantled the Venetian Republic and kept the pope prisoner in the Vatican.

Cross the courtyard (by the Pyramid) and climb to the second floor of the Richelieu wing where you’ll find an outstanding collection of northern European paintings including Jan Vermeer’s exquisite The Lacemaker. This last alone is worth spend-ing time with, instead of jostling for space in the crowds permanently gathered around Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait. See the tinted panel for tips on how to see the Mona Lisa in peace for a few minutes, or even if you just want to beat the slow moving ticket queue.

Afterwards, relax at one of the museum’s five cafés, or at Le Grand Louvre, the more formal restaurant underneath the pyramid. All of them are closed on Tuesdays.

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Jardin des TuileriesTuileries GardensRue de RivoliMetro: Tuileries07.30-19.00 dailyJeu de paume 12.00-21.00 Tue; 12.00-19.00 Wed-Fri 10.00-19.00 Sat-Sun; closed Monorangerie 12.30-19.00 daily; until 21.00 Fri closed Tue

The Tuileries gardens and palace were built as private gardens in 1564 for Catherine de Medici, wife of King Henri II. A century later, in 1664, they were turned into more formal gardens and opened to the public. Today the pub-lic loves them, locals and visitors alike. The paths through the gardens are lined with lime and chestnut trees, and there are benches, a pond and numerous sculp-tures including some by Henry Moore, Alberto Giacometti and Aristide Maillol.

As popular as the gardens are today, their history is dark. Where children now play was once all bloodshed and death in the late 18th century. In 1792, at the climax of the French Revolution, citi-zens of Paris stormed the gardens and

ransacked the royal Tuileries Palace. The protests and attacks continued from 20 June until 10 August, when King Louis XVI was dragged from the throne and, together with the rest of his family, was imprisoned and executed.

The Tuileries palace survived the Revo-lution, but was destroyed in 1871 during the brief months of revolutionary gov-ernment known as the Paris Commune.

At the western end of the gardens, near Place de la Concorde, are two important galleries. In the north corner the Jeu de paume, a former réal (royal) tennis court, has excellent photography and other image exhibitions (cinema, video, installations).

In the south corner, is the orangerie, fully refurbished in 2006, built around the large and precious canvases of Claude Monet’s Waterlilies. The stunning gallery took six years to complete. The gallery also has the Walter-Guillaume Collection of paintings (1870-1930), a short timespan in a small gallery, which nonetheless manages to include such giants as Auguste Renoir, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Paul Cézanne.

Les Arts Décoratifs• Musées des Arts Décoratifs – de la Mode et du Textile – de la Publicité107 rue de RivoliMetro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre, Tuileries, Pyramides01 �� �� �7 �0www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr11.00-18.00 (Sat & Sun 10.00-18.00). Thu night until 21.00; closed Mon, 01/05, 08/05, 25/12 and 01/01

• Musée Nissim de Camondo6� rue de Monceau01 �� 89 06 �0www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

This is the umbrella name for the muse-ums of Décorative Arts, Fashion and Textiles, and Advertising, as well as the Nissim de Camondo museum (in the 8th arrondissement). Long considered minor art forms, the decorative arts are treated with greater respect today. After a decade of closure for restoration, its renovated spaces display unique pieces that reflect the French art of living from the Middle Ages to the present day. An entirely redesigned tour takes you through period rooms and tells the story of fashion, techniques and styles, craftsmanship and industry…

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GMusée d’orsayLess daunting than the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay focuses on Western art in the explosive period from 1848 to 1914. For most people this means the Impres-sionists and post-Impressionists, and the museum does have wonderful col-lections of both periods. You have some of Van Gogh’s most powerful paintings, including his Bedroom at Arles, alongside Manet’s controversial Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe and Olympia, and large collections of works by Monet, Renoir, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec and Cézanne. Degas’ work appears in both the sculpture and photography collections, this last amounting to over 10,000 items.

This is only the tip of the iceberg, as you discover when you wander round this converted railway station, full of light and space. The station was built in 1900 to provide easier, central access to the Paris Exposition Universelle, but it closed in 1939. It then stood unused until Orson Welles stumbled across it and used it as a location for his 1962 film version of Kafka’s The Trial. In 1986 it re-opened as a museum, using the vast space to great effect. It is exhilarating just to wander around, even before you start admiring the exhibits.

Be sure to visit the Art Nouveau rooms on the first floor, where there are some of the most exquisitely designed rooms you will ever see. Many are panelled in exotic woods. The galleries also include crystal and jewellery by René Lalique.

Almost every movement in western art from the period is represented, includ-ing the Romantics, the Art Nouveau movement, the School of Pont-Aven, the Realists, the Barbizon school and the Pointillists. It’s one of those museums you just won’t want to leave.

Note that there is a footbridge over the Seine between the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre…

1 rue de la Légion d’HonneurRER C: Musée d’Orsay Metro: Assemblée Nationale01 �0 �9 �8 1� or 01 �� �9 11 11 (recorded information)www.musee-orsay.fr10.00-18.00 Tue-Wed, Fri-Sat 10.00-21.45 Thu, 09.00-18.00 Sun;closed Mon; open at 09.00 Jun-Sep€7

Bonnard, Acrobates en Gris by Fernand Léger, Le Rêve by Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso’s L’Arlequin, and Henri Rous-seau’s The Snake charmer, paintings by Jackson Pollock and superb collections of sculpture by Alberto Giacometti and Constantin Brancusi, including the lat-ter’s workshop.

The building also houses a cinema, temporary exhibition spaces, a library, performance spaces and a large art bookshop. Take the outside escalator up to the top floor for the views over the city, access is free. The Georges restaurant on the sixth floor has superb French-Asian fusion cuisine and unbeat-able views.

Centre pompidouRue Beaubourg Metro: Rambuteau01 44 78 12 33 – www.centrepompidou.fr11.00-21.00 Wed-Mon; closed Tue€7, museum

Now 30 years old, the Pompidou Centre still manages to look outrageous, like a punk who has never grown up. And like the punk movement, it created outrage when it opened in 1977. Archi-tects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers’ ‘inside-out’ building startled Paris, if not the world. Pipes that are normally hidden are exposed on the outside of the building in bold colours: blue for AC, green for water and yellow for the elec-tricity supply. There’s also an external escalator which zig-zags up the front of the building in a plexi-glass tube. And after three decades, the inside-out look still works.

Musée d’Art Moderne The modern art collection is on the fourth and fifth floors with the entrance on the fourth. The fifth floor is used for temporary exhibits while the lower floor shows works from 1905-1960. Highlights include L’Atelier au Mimosa by Pierre

The outrageous punky aesthetic also applies to statues in the fountains in Place Igor Stravinsky, beside the Pompidou, inspired by the composer’s ballet, The Firebird. There is a terrace alongside the fountain with several brasseries that serve good quality sal-ads, omelettes, and other simple French dishes. An excellent stop for lunch.

orsay celebrates twenty yearsThis year the Musée d’Orsay is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a rich program-me of exhibitions, including “Cézanne to Picasso: Ambroise Vollard, Patron of the Avant-Garde” (until 16 September) with paintings, sculptures and other works by Cézanne, Renoir and many other masters.

A new take on the contemporary and modern collectionsTo celebrate its 30th anniversary, the Pompidou Centre is offering two new chronological tours based on its collections of modern and contemporary art.

The MaraisMany guidebooks dismiss the Marais district, on the grounds that it has been discovered by tourists (you know – people who buy guidebooks), but for us the Marais remains one of the best areas for walking and eating. Here you’ll find a fascinating cultural mix that includes Kosher restaurants and the Paris gay quarter. There are numerous restaurants, bars and tiny lanes with food shops to drool over. The Marais has a genuine character. We love it.

place des VosgesMetro: St-Paul, Chemin VertThis beautiful square is the heart of the Marais and measures exactly 140m each side. It was first built by King Henri IV in 1612 on the site of the Hôtel des Tournelles. The layout of the square, with its integrated design of elegant matching housefronts built over arcades, was quickly and extensively copied throughout Europe. Place des Vosges became a model for urban living and was the place to live for the aristocracy, the literati, and anyone who was considered at all important in 17th- century Paris.

When the royal court moved to Versailles in 1686, Place des Vosges lost its allure and deteriorated. Eventually it became a slum and remained so until it was restored in the 1960s. Today it is once again one of Paris’s most sought-after addresses. People who have lived here over the years include Molière, Cardinal Richelieu and Victor Hugo, whose house at number 6 is now a museum, Maison de Victor Hugo.

Other museums worth visiting in the area include the stunning Musée national picasso, the historical Musée Carnavalet and Hôtel le peletier de st-Fargeau, the 18th-century Musée Cognacq-Jay, the fascinating Jewish museum Musée

Musée national picassoHôtel Salé, 5 rue de Thorigny Metro: St-Paul, St-Sebastien Froissart01 �2 71 2� 21www.musee-picasso.fr09.30-18.00 daily in Sept (closed 17.30 Oct); closed Tue; €5.50

If you only know Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) from his Cubist and more outlandish paintings, a visit here will show you that the man himself was like one of his own Cubist portraits – with many different sides. Don’t dismiss the museum because you think you don’t like Picasso’s work. Pay a visit and you’ll see thousands of items in the world’s largest collection of his work, donated to the French State by the Picasso family in lieu of death duties.

The light and airy building is a work of art in itself – complete with furniture and chandeliers designed by Alberto Giacometti’s brother, Diego. The man-sion dates from the 17th century, when it was commissioned by a salt-tax col-lector, hence the name Hôtel Salé (Salt Mansion).

Picasso’s work is displayed in roughly chronological order, giving you a chance to appreciate the remarkable speed at which his talent developed. He was an accomplished artist from a very early age, so it is no wonder he turned to experimentating. Don’t miss the arrest-ing self-portrait, done when the artist was poverty-stricken in 1901 and which grips you with its unflinching stare. In addition to paintings and sketches, there are also collections of Picasso’s ceramics, sculpture and photography. The ceramics are especially good, whim-sically showing the artist’s sense of fun. Works from Picasso’s own art collection are on display, including those by his great friend Matisse. There is also a gift shop worth visiting, so leave yourself some extra time to browse the shelves.

d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, the hunter’s Musée de la Chasse et de la nature and the offbeat magic museum, Musée de la Curiosité. Paris’s love for photography is seen in the excellent Maison européenne de la photographie, whith an annual festival in October.

Food lovers should check out Rue st-Antoine for everything from goat’s cheese and chocolate tarts to horsemeat. Rue des Rosiers is a lively street with plenty of takeaways. If you’re looking for a brasserie try place du Marché sainte-Catherine. The best shopping is on (and just off) Rue des Francs-Bourgeois.

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saint-GermainThe rive gauche, or left bank, of the Seine is the intellectual, literary and music pulse of Paris, with cafés, jazz clubs, bookshops and the ghosts of Picasso, Sartre and Scott Fitzgerald haunting the boulevards.

Boulevard Saint-Germain makes an elegant arc as it stretches for 3km through the left bank and neighbouring Latin quarter, from Pont de la Con-corde to Pont de Sully, passing through Saint-Michel. The most famous street of them all owes its elegance to Baron Haussmann, Napoleon’s architect who completely rebuilt Paris. He trans-formed the narrow medieval streets into the wide tree-lined boulevards we enjoy today.

Near Saint-Germain des Prés, strung together like pearls on a necklace, are three of the most famous cafés in Paris. At number 151 is Brasserie Lipp, once the haunt of French politicians such as Georges Pompidou, Francois Mitter-rand and Charles de Gaulle. Number 172, Café de Flore, is an art deco delight, favoured by intellectuals. It was here in the 1940s that Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir would hold court.

Across the street at number 170 is Les Deux Magots, the café preferred by artists and writers, which appears in Hemingway’s books A Moveable Feast and The Sun Also Rises. Scott Fitzgerald, Oscar Wilde, Paul Verlaine and André Breton have all drunk coffee or some-thing stronger at the Magots, and it was here that Pablo Picasso first met his muse Dora Maar in 1937.

Just off the boulevard along the Rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie is Le Procope, the oldest café in Paris, founded in 1686. The roll-call of names here is grander than any of them, ranging from Voltaire and Balzac to Napoleon Bonaparte, Victor Hugo and Benjamin Franklin. It’s now a restaurant and you can still dine in the glamour of its 18th-century décor. Just be prepared for 21st-century prices.

There are some good sports bars and restaurants along Rue de Buci and off Rue du Four. The two streets join at Boulevard Saint-Germain near the Mabillon metro. Follow Rue du Four westwards to the lively network of lanes around Rue des Canettes where there are bars frequented by ‘Les Bleus’ and the All Blacks. North of Boulevard Saint-Germain are Le Conti and Le Buci, on opposite corners of a lively intersec-tion of pedestrianised streets.

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Rue MouffetardOne of the oldest and best food markets in Paris is open daily except Sunday afternoons. If you want to stock up for a picnic, or replenish your self-catering fridge, this is the street for you.

Boulevard Saint-Germain runs across the top of Rue Mouffetard, though at that point the road is named Rue de la Montagne. At this end, the street does not look very interesting, but you will be rewarded if you make the effort to walk up and over the hill to Rue Mouffetard and its markets. Here you will find fantastic French bakeries, wine and cheese shops, charcuterie (delis) and restaurants to rest your weary feet. The absolutely best iced tea can be found at Le Mouffetard, 116 rue Mouffetard.

As the saying goes: all roads lead to Rome, even this one. Rue Mouf-fetard began life as a Roman road, the main one leading south from Paris to Lyon, and beyond Lyon to Rome. The street was residential back in the 13th century, and many of the existing houses date from the 17th century. They are sometimes hard to appreciate as many of the ground floors have become shops and cafés, and the street is almost always packed with people. Find somewhere safe to stand and stare up at the upper floors and beyond to the original mansard roofs.

At number 1 place de la Contres-carpe, there used to be the Maison de la Pomme de Pin, the Pine Cone Club. In the 16th century this was also a café, frequented by Rabelais and other writers. On the square these days it’s more likely to be a mix of tourists and students from the nearby university.

Jardin des plantesPlace Valhubert; Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz 07.15-sunset daily, free

In 1626 the physicians to King Louis XIII planted a medicinal herb garden on the left bank of the Seine, and 14 years later the gardens were opened to the public. They are still open and remain a popular place for Parisians to relax. The garden serves as a plant research centre, with some 10,000 different species. These include an Acacia robinia, the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1636. Mere striplings by comparison are a cedar of Lebanon from 1734 and a Sophora of Japan, planted in 1747. This first flowered in 1777 and is still flower-ing over 200 years later. It is a humbling and uplifting experience to gaze at these venerable trees and think of the events that have happened around them – wars and revolutions, and still they stand.

Muséum d’Histoire naturelle57 rue Couvier; 01 40 79 54 79Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz10.00-18.00 Sun-Mon, Wed-Fri; 10.00-20.00 Sat, closed TueGrand Galerie €7; other galleries €5

The museum is made up of several galleries, but the best is the Grande Galerie de l’evolution. Set in a 19th century glass and steel builing, it is to natural history what the Musée d’Orsay is to art. On the ground floor, dozens of animals stride across an African savannah, showing how the human imagination can transform what are basically stuffed animals into an uplifting experience. Above the savannah exhibit hangs a huge whale skeleton, adding to the dramatic effect. The basement is dedicated to life in the oceans. On upper floors, displays concern the issues facing the natural world with thought-provoking exhibits including a population counter, increas-ing rapidly every second.

Jardin de CélesteMusée national du Moyen-Âge – Thermes de Cluny6 place Paul-Painlevé; Metro: Cluny09.15-17.45 Wed-Mon; closed TueA quiet medieval garden set on one of the busiest corners in Paris. There are several box plantings, each planted to a theme, medicinal herbs, Biblical plants, fragrant plants. Formerly known as the Musée de Cluny, the museum houses many marvels from the Middle Ages including the Lady with the Unicorn tapestry.

• Bercy Village

• Cinémathèque française51 rue de BercyMetro: Bercy. RER A & D Gare-de-Lyon01 71 19 �� �� www.cinematheque.fr12.00-19.00 Mon-Sat; 10.00-20.00 Sun; Thu until 22.00; closed Tue, 25/12 and 01/01

• Bibliothèque nationale de FranceQuai François-MauriacMetro: Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand01 �� 79 �9 �9www.bnf.fr10.00-19.00; Sun 13.00-19.00; closed Mon and public holidays

• institut du monde Arabe1 rue des Fossés- Saint-BernardMetro: Jussieu, Cardinal-Lemoine, Sully-Morland01 �0 �1 �8 �8www.imarabe.org10.00-18.00; closed Mon & 01/05

Bercy and aroundMetro: Bercy, Cour Saint-Emilion

The amazing city park, parc de Bercy, is at the heart of a neigh-bourhood that is seeing big changes. Here you’ll find Bercy Village, a big paved courtyard ideal for peace-ful shopping in boutiques dedicated to stylish living and leisure, with innovative and unusual brands, restaurants, a fitness centre… and the biggest cinema in Paris!

Not far away is the Cinémathèque française, a post-modern building designed by Frank Gehry, a temple to the art of film and a living repository of cinema history. The permanent exhibition “Passion Cinéma” reflects this unique heritage, from legendary costumes to film sets, posters and cult objects. Crossing the Seine by the extraor-dinary Simone de Beauvoir footbridge built last year takes

you to the Bibliothèque Nationale de France. This building with four towers like big open books houses France’s national library (millions of books, booklets, photographs, posters or sound-recorded documents…) and regularly holds major exhibitions. A little further off, in front of the Jardin des Plantes, stands the institut du Monde Arabe. This majestic building of glass and steel alongside the Seine is dedicated to Arabic and Islamic cultures, from their origins to the present day. Its next major exhibition, from October, will be devoted to the Phoenicians and the Mediterranean.

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Musée du Luxembourg 19 rue de Vaugirard 01 �2 �� 2� 9�19www. museeduluxembourg.frMetro: Saint-SulpiceRER B: Luxembourg11.00-19.00 Tue-Thu;11.00-20.00 Mon, Fri-Sat;09.00-19.00 Sun, Hols€10 Good quality temporary exhibitions recently include ones on Titian and René Lalique.

Jardins du LuxembourgLuxembourg GardensRue de Vaugirard; Metro: JussieuDawn-dusk daily, free

As a contrast to the traffic-filled boulevards and smoky cafés and bars, the Jardin du Luxembourg provides the left bank with some much-needed breathing space. Locals make good use of it, especially in summer when the grass is covered with lounging bodies, getting hot yet still look-ing cool. It’s a legal requirement for every citizen of Paris to look cool at all times.

At the north end of the Jardin is the Palais du Luxembourg, which houses the French Senate. It was built in 1615-27 for Marie de Medici, widow of King Henri IV who had died in 1610, in a style chosen to remind her of her native Florence, to give her some comfort. In 1622 Marie de Médici sum-moned Rubens to come to Paris and to paint two cycles of work for her new palace, one showing events in her own life and the other events in the life of her dead husband. Rubens painted 24 canvases under rather difficult condi-tions (Marie was a demanding subject and employer), most of which are now to be seen in the Louvre.

There’s a café, fountains, trees, tennis courts and plenty for children to do, including donkey rides. The grounds are also liberally sprinkled with sculptures, including work by Ossip Zadkine, whose studio, now the Musée Zadkine, is close by. You’re not recommended to try what Ernest Hemingway says he did in the gardens during his poverty-stricken early Paris days: shoot pigeons for the pot.

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MontmartreThe district that most visitors see on a quick trip is a far cry from Montmartre’s Bohemian past, when showgirls, poets and painters rubbed shoulders (and much else besides). Today dancers are more likely to be from eastern Europe and painters earn their crust by sketch-ing tourists in the Place du Tertre as opposed to creating works that will end up in museums. But get away from the obvious and with a bit of effort you can still conjure up a feel for Montmarte as it was when Pablo Picasso worked as a waiter, and Henri Toulouse-Lautrec painted can-can girls.

Utrillo and Renoir are just two of the artists who used to live in Le Manoir de Rose de Rosimond, now the Musée de Montmartre. It’s a good place to start to get an overview of the area’s history, although the house is more interesting than the contents. The house overlooks one of Montmartre’s little eccentricities – the only vineyard in Paris. In the middle of the 18th century, this whole area was covered in vines and Paris had a great reputation for its wine. Today there are just 2,000 vines, producing 1,000 bottles of wine a year, more for fun and charity than for serious consumption.

Musée de l’Érotisme72 boulevard de ClichyMetro: Place de Clichy01 �2 �8 28 7�www.musee-erotisme.com10.00-02.00 daily; €7

Sex in the Pigalle and Montmartre districts these days is much more in your face, so to speak, than it was 100 years ago, when ‘a glimpse of stocking was something shocking’. Now, as Cole Porter said, anything goes. It certainly does at the Erotic Museum, although it is a far from sleazy place. The interior is well-lit with modern decor, and it is

Basilique du sacré-Coeur35 rue de Chevalier-de-la-BarreMetro: Anvers06.00-22.30 daily;crypt: 09.00-19.00 daily (church free)

Sacré-Coeur has been likened to a wed-ding cake. It is certainly distinctive, and from the front, you will have one of the best views of Paris.

The church is actually less than a hun-dred years old, consecrated in 1919. It was built by two Catholic businessmen who vowed that they would build a church and dedicate it to the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Sacré-Cœur), if the coun-try was spared in the Franco-Prussian war. The church welcomes all faiths and there is even a Jewish symbol inside.

It is possible to climb almost to the top of the church, the second-highest point in the city after the Eiffel Tower, or you can descend to the crypt for an audio-visual display on the history of the Sacré-Coeur. There are several ways to reach the church from Place St-Maladon: you can ride the funicular, board a tour-ist train or simply climb the steps.

CemeteriesIt may seem ghoulish, but in Paris many people pay a visit to one or more of these three famous cemeteries. The Cimetière de Montmartre has a mix of history, nature and fame. Here lies Louise Weber, better known as La Goulue, one of the first can-can dancers at the Moulin Rouge and subject of Toulouse-Lautrec’s most popular posters. Stendhal is also here; the grave bears his real name, Henry Beyle. Others include Offenbach, Nijinsky, Degas, Berlioz and Truffaut.

Père-Lachaise is one of the world’s great cemeteries, and Paris’ largest. Pick up a free map at the newsstand by the main entrance and stroll down its avenues. Everyone who was anyone is here: Oscar Wilde, Maria Callas, Marcel Proust, Isadora Duncan, Edith Piaf, Gertrude Stein. There is a surprisingly lighthearted atmosphere and you may find a group picnicking by the remains of Jim Morrison.

The Cimetière du Montparnasse has a delightful sculpture on the grave of Charles Pigeon, inventer of the gas lamp, showing him and his wife sitting in bed reading by the light of his inven-tion. Samuel Beckett has a simple tomb, in keeping with the reticence of the man. Jean-Paul Sartre and his beloved com-panion Simone de Beauvoir lie together in a joint grave.

Cemetery opening hours08.00-18.00 Mon-Fri, 08.�0-18.00 Sat 09.00-18.00 Sun Free admission

Cimetière de Montmartre 20 ave Rachel at rue Caulaincourt Metro: Place de ClichyCimetière du Père-LachaiseBoulevard de MénilmontantMetro: Père LachaiseCimetière du Montparnasse3 boulevard Edgar-Quinet Metro: Raspail

as serious about its subject matter as any other Paris museum. This private collection was opened in 1998 when the owner put on display the 5,000 erotic items collected on his travels. More objects have been added since and the exhibits provide a fascinating journey of global sexual practice, with paintings, photos, sculptures, automata, ceramics, toys, drawings, dolls. Don’t go if you are easily shocked, but if you’re fairly broadminded, your mind is likely to be even broader after your visit. And don’t miss the gift shop for some very unu-sual souvenirs.

1st and 2nd Arrondissements (Louvre, Bourse)

La Fontaine Gaillon Place Gaillon; metro: Opéra01 �7 �2 6� 22 12.00-14.30, 19.00-23.30 Mon-FriBooking requiredCredit cards accepted€€€€

Just off the Avenue de l’Opéra is an elegant restaurant owned by screen legend and gour-mand, Gérard Depardieu. Open in 2004, it is set in a historic building that was once owned by Cardinal Richelieu and later contained the classic restaurant, Pierre. La Fontaine Gaillon was decorated by actress Carole Bouquet and Séverine Courcoux, who restored the Fountain d’Antin and its facade to make one of the finest outdoor dining terraces in Paris. Inside, are five comfortable dining rooms decorated in taupe and cream with plush burgundy and mocha seating. Chef Laurent Audiot’s speciality is fish and there is much to choose from on the menu as well as daily specials; try sea-bass tartare with anchovies and herbs, ravioli of sea scallops with truffle sauce, or try a Depardieu creation like terrine de lapin à gelée made at the actor’s Anjou vineyard, together with a glass of Cuvée Jean Carmet, made by the actor Jean Carmet, using Depardieu’s grapes. Pricy but delicious French cooking and you never know when the famous owner will make an appearance.

Chez Georges 1 rue du Mail; metro: Sentier01 �2 60 07 11Lunch and dinner Mon-SatBooking requiredCredit cards accepted€€€Much of the clientele is from the nearby stock exchange and it is a favourite of politicians and diplomats including Bill Clinton. Chez Georges serves classic French sauces in a traditional style with a menu that includes steak béarnaise and sole meunière together with a list of market-fresh daily entrées. The wine list is extensive and caters to all price ranges, decor is elegant with leather seating and white table-cloths, service is excellent if a touch formal.

Kinugawa 9 rue Mont Thabor; metro: Tuileries01 �2 60 6� 0712.00-14.30, 19.00-23.00 Mon-SatBooking advisedCredit cards accepted€€€An excellent Japanese restaurant near the Tuileries with warm yellow walls and a relaxed atmosphere. It has the best sushi bar in Paris and it is rumoured that Catherine Deneuve is a customer. The beef with ginger and teriyaki salmon are delicious.

Willi’s Wine Bar 13 rue des Petits-Champs; metro: Pyramides01 �2 61 0� 09

12.00-14.30, 19.00-22.30 Mon-SatBooking recommendedSome credit cards€€At the north end of the Jardin du Palais Royal is one of the best wine bars in Paris – and it’s owned by an Englishman. Parisians flock here, and your only problem may be getting a table. The quality of the food, though inexpensive, is above average for a wine bar. Try the peppered house foie gras followed by steak, which is always good. The dining room has a high, oak-beamed ceiling and the walls are covered in the owner’s collection of art that’s been used on wine labels. Vast list of wines by the glass.

Koetsu 42 rue Sainte-Anne; metro: Pyramides01 �0 1� 99 90Book at weekends €€There is a assortment of noodle bars and small Japanese restaurants on this street serving sushi, sashimi and yakatori. Koetsu is a bit more upscale than the others and portions can be on the small side. It’s a good bet to have sushi or sashimi, as the fish is superbly fresh and succu-lent; the yakatori is also well-prepared.

La Taverne Henri iV 13 place du Pont-Neuf; metro: Pont-Neuf01 �� �� 27 9009.00-16.00 Mon-Sat, 18.00-21.00 Mon-FriBooking not necessaryNo credit cards€This is Maigret’s Brasserie Dauphine – located just round the corner from the police inspec-tor’s office. Author Simenon was a regular

here and it is more wine bar than restaurant, though they do serve snacks. La Taverne retains a 16th-century atmosphere despite a recent makeover.

3rd arrondissement (Pompidou, The Marais)

L’Ambassade d’Auvergne 22 rue du Grenier-St-Lazare; metro: Rambuteau01 �2 72 �1 2212.00-14.00, 19.30-22.30 dailyBooking recommendedCredit cards accepted€€€This country-style restaurant serves regional cooking from the Auvergne, an isolated region of France known for its pork. Decorated with heavy oak beams, hanging hams and ceramic plates, this restaurant serves rustic dishes like pork stew with cabbage and country sausage with aligot – a cheese and mash combo that is a house speciality and accompanies almost everything except dessert. The desserts are often unusual, such as rhubarb soup with fresh mint. There’s a good regional wine list.

Les Caves saint-Gilles 4 rue Saint-Gilles; metro: Chemin Vert01 �8 87 22 62Lunch and dinner dailyBooking advised at weekendsNo credit cards €€A friendly Spanish tapas and wine bar not far from the Place des Vosges. The assorted hot and cold tapas dishes are large enough to share. Bullfighting posters line the walls and tables are arranged intimately. The sangria is delicious and reasonably priced.

RestaurantsThere is every kind of restaurant in Paris from the establishments of six-Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, to simple take-away falafel joints. Chances are you’ll be able to find a good meal for the price you want to pay. Avoid the very touristy lanes of Saint-Michel in favour of The Marais or Saint-Germain.

Restaurants are listed by districts (arrondissement) then by price: from the most expensive to the least. Some bars are included here, but for rugby bars, see pages 19-21.

Restaurant ListingspricingRestaurants are listed according to price range, signified by the e symbol. Prices are average per person for 2-3 courses including a glass of house wine.eeee e60 and overeee e30-e60ee e15-e30e e15 and under

If you’re looking for a simple meal at a reasonable price, head for a brasserie, or a bistro. They usually serve salads, ome-lettes, steak frites and a daily special or two, and generally offer good value for money. Find one that smells good and settle in for a nice meal. Salads in France tend to be large and can be a meal in themselves. Vegetarians be warned that small pieces of offal are often served with a country campagne or terroir salad, so don’t be afraid to enquire about the contents.

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such as foie gras, oysters, poached haddock, steak, ice cream: nothing innovative but everything satisfying.

Aux Vins des pyrénées 25 rue Beautreillis; metro: St-Paul, Bastille01 �2 72 6� 9�12.00-15.00, 19.00-23.00 Mon-SatBooking recommended or go earlyCredit cards accepted€€A large friendly restaurant decorated like an old cellar with posters on the walls. It’s located just at the edge of the Marais and fills up by 9pm. As the name suggests, they serve good regional cooking and wine from the Py-renees. The cheerful (and mostly female) staff are usually willing to speak a little English, and they’re very pretty too. The beef carpaccio is superb, roast meats are well-prepared and there’s often a choice of interesting daily specials. If you’re looking for something vege-tarian, try the millefleur avec chèvre & courgette (courgette and goats cheese in layers of puff pastry). Be sure to have the chocolate mousse for dessert.

Auberge de Jarente 7 rue de Jarente; metro: St-Paul01 �2 77 �9 ��Lunch and dinner Tue-SatBooking usually not necessaryCredit cards accepted€€Just off Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine is a cosy little Basque restaurant on two levels. The seating area is on the tiny ground floor with the kitchen in the cellar below. They spe-cialise in hearty Basque cuisine and make an

excellent cassoulet. If you’re after something lighter, try the gambas or the smoked duck and chervil salad. There is usually a two-three course fixed price meal that is very good value and the wine list has a beautiful Sancerre for €24.

La Boutique jaune de sacha Finkelsztajn27 rue des Rosiers; metro Hôtel-de-VilleDaily except Tues., 10.00 am-7.00 pm. Mon. and bank holidays: 11.00 am-7.00 pmA wonderful Yiddish patisserie and caterer offering specialities from Central Europe and Russia, such as strudels, fig cakes and date rolls. The cheesecakes are absolutely delicious...

The pure Malt 4 rue Caron; metro: St-Paul 01 �2 76 0� 77Open till 02.00Scottish fans will feel right at home in this small bar near the Place des Vosges. As the name implies, the bar stocks over 100 varieties of Scotch whisky.

5th arrondissement

La Tour d’Argent 15-17 quai de la TournelleMetro: Maubert Mutualité 01 �� �� 2� �112.00-13.15 Wed-Sun, 19.30-21.00 Tue-SunBooking essentialCredit cards€€€€One of the top restaurants in Paris is on the left bank of the Seine, across from Île Saint-Louis, with views of Notre-Dame. This Parisian institution has existed since 1582.

4th arrondissement (The Marais)There are numerous restaurants in this arrondissement and you can usually get a table if you’re willing to wander through the streets following your nose. The Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine, just off Rue Saint-Antoine, has five restaurants where you can have a good meal with wine for around €25. Choose from two French bistros, an Italian trattoria, a sushi bar and a Russian eatery. If you’re just looking for a quick takeaway falafel there are several on Rue des Rosiers, a pedestrianised (except for scooters) lane that can become quite crowded with people strolling and munching.

Bofinger 5-7 rue de la Bastille; metro: Bastille01 �2 72 87 8212.00-15.00, 18.30-01.00 Mon-Fri 12.00-01.00 Sat-SunBooking recommendedCredit cards accepted€€If you want to experience a classic Parisian brasserie, come here to the west side of Place de la Bastille. The Art Nouveau decoration of shining brass, gleaming wood, leather seats and a sweeping staircase under an ornate domed ceiling dates back to the mid-19th century, and it feels like it hasn’t changed. The same goes for the waiters and the menu, which is made up of staple brasserie dishes

The dining room is located on the 5th floor of this magnificant building, and there is one of the best wine cellars in Paris, located below street level. What happens on the other floors? That’s something to contemplate as you enjoy duck à l’orange, invented here in 1892, and served more than a million times since then. It’s the obvious choice, and is truly superb. When in Rome...

L’Atelier Maître Albert 1 rue Maître Albert; metro: Saint-Michel 01 �6 81 �0 0112.00-14.30,19.00-23.30 Mon-Wed, Till 01.00 Thur-SatBooking recommendedCredit cards accepted€€€On the edge of Saint-Michel and just across the river from Notre-Dame, is one of chef Guy Savoy’s restaurants. The decor is modern with a black facade, stone surfaces and an open ro-tisserie. Here the specialities are grilled meats and fish, cooked to perfection and reasonably priced. There is a fixed price menu at €45 for three courses: salad, main and dessert. The menu isn’t large but everything is prepa-red with great care. Service is relaxed but efficient and the wine list has something for every budget. Those who love their meat and potatoes should look no further. Chef Laurent Jacquet is a rugby fan and many players stop in for a visit. There is also a bar where you can just have a drink and a snack.

place du marché sainte-catherinela boutique jaune, rue des rosiers

l’atelier maître albert

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La Fourmi Ailée 8 rue du Fouarre; metro: St-Michel Notre-Dame01 �� 29 �0 9912.00-24.00 dailyBooking not requiredCredit cards accepted€A cosy restaurant located close to the tourist sights. This former bookshop, around the corner from the famous Shakespeare & Co., is now a tea room serving delicious pastries as well as full meals. The lighting is soft and low and books still line the walls.

Comptoir des Arts 100 rue Monge; metro: Censier Daubenton01 �� �� 28 ��11.00-23.00 dailyBooking not requiredCredit cards accepted€A simple French bistro near the markets of rue Mouffetard. There are several moderately priced restaurants nearby if this one is full. Salads start at €6, beefsteak and chips is a deal at €11.

Le Mouffetard 116 rue Mouffetard; metro: Censier Daubenton01 �� �1 �2 �0Open daily€Located at the food market end of Rue Mouf-fetard, this is a small café with chairs spilling out onto the pavement. It isn’t cheap, but they serve the best iced tea you’ll ever have, complete with fresh sprigs of mint.

6th arrondissement (Saint-Germain des Prés)There are plenty of restaurants along Rue des Canettes, Rue Guisarde, Rue Mabillon and there’s the Eden Park rugby bar on Rue Princesse. North of Boulevard Saint-Germain are the more touristy streets near Rue de Buci. It is always lively here and a good place to begin the evening with an aperitif and a bit of people-watching. Then go to Rue des Canettes or queue for steak and chips on Rue St-Benoit, another street lined with restaurants for all budgets.

Afterwards, go dancing at Le Pousse au Crime on Rue Guisarde and rub shoul-ders with the rugby crowd.

Alcazar 62 rue Mazarine; metro: Odéon01 �� 10 19 9912.00-15.00, 19.00-00.30 dailyBooking recommendedCredit cards accepted€€€A stylish yet casual Terence Conran bar and restaurant, at the heart of the left bank. The designer-sleek minimalist interior buzzes with chic locals and even after several years it remains one of the places to meet and be seen. Enjoy a cocktail in the bar before going on to the dining rooms. The menu includes items as simple as sandwiches or steak, in addition to more contemporary French cuisine such as chicken stuffed with foie gras or sea bass.

Le Cherche-Midi 22 rue du Cherche-Midi; metro: St-Placide01 �� �8 27 ��Lunch and dinner daily (opens 20.00 for dinner)Booking recommended; non-smokingCredit cards accepted€€€A mid-priced Italian restaurant where com-pany directors sit elbow-to-elbow while the owner (from Solerno) insults you – it’s all part of the charm. The homemade basil pesto is ex-cellent, full of flavour and with lots of garlic. Entrées are priced around €12 for pasta, €18 for mains. This is one of the few restaurants in the area open on Sunday. Beware of the homemade Limoncello.

Le Relais de l’entrecote 20 rue St-Benoît; metro: Saint-Germain des Prés01 �� �9 16 0012.00-01.00 dailyBookings not takenCredit cards accepted€€One of a chain with a simple concept: serve only steak and chips, salad and dessert for €30 per person with wine. There is a starter salad and steak with frites, prepared either rare or medium and served with a delicious sauce. Dessert is included and there are se-veral choices. The house wine is good or you may upgrade to a very reasonable bottle of Burgundy. Arrive early to avoid a queue, but if you have to wait, it shouldn’t be too long as people don’t linger.

Le port Dauphine 18 rue Dauphine; metro: Odéon01 �� �� �� 16Booking not requiredCredit cards accepted€€Located near Pont-Neuf with a nice loft ups-tairs. A set menu for three courses at €19.00 is good value although cheap and cheerful sauces sometimes mask a cheaper cut of meat. Service is good.

La Boussole 12 rue Guisarde; metro: Mabillon01 �6 2� 82 20Lunch and dinner Mon-Fri, all day Sat-Sun Booking not required – credit cards accepted€€La Boussole means compass, and the cuisine here features exotic spices and international influences. The fixed price plats-du-jour are €14.50 with a choice of seafood or beef.

o’neil 20 rue des Canettes; Metro: Saint-Germain des Prés01 �6 �� �6 66 12.00-02.00 daily €An artisan brewery and restaurant that is good value, especially during happy hour when pints of beer are half price. O’Neil’s serves grilled steak, sausages and salads, a house specialty Les flammekueches is akin to a thin pizza, but served on a crêpe (pancake).

Le pousse au CrimeRue Guisarde22.00-0�.00 Wed-SunLate night dance club frequented by the French rugby team.

7th arrondissement

Tribeca36 rue Cler; metro: École Militaire01 �� 1� 91 91 09.00-23.00 Mon-Sat, 09.00-17.00 SunBook on weekend eveningsCredit cards accepted€€It can be difficult to find a good restaurant near the Eiffel Tower, but Tribeca is one such. A lively spot day or night, with an excellent kitchen and reasonable prices (€8 starter, €12 main course), it serves traditional French dishes with a modern touch and also offer risotto and pizza. Portions are generous and the service is friendly yet efficient. A stylish yet unpretentious neighbourhood restaurant that also serves great coffee. A real gem.

Café des Lettres 53 rue de Verneuil; metro: Rue du Bac01 �2 22 �2 17 Lunch and dinner Mon-SatClosed Sunday eveningsBooking not necessaryCredit cards accepted€€A literary café located two blocks behind the Musée d’Orsay on the street where the singer Serge Gainsbourg once lived. They serve good homestyle Swedish cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Most of the staff speak English.

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petrossian 18 Bd de Latour-Maubourg; metro: Invalides01 �� 11 �2 �2Luxury shop and gourmet restaurant rolled into one. Total sophistication, in the decor of the walls and tables, and of course in the menu, which offers a selection of the finest products on sale, including caviar – or rather caviars, the icon of the house…

8th arrondissement

Alain Ducasse au plaza Athénée Hôtel Plaza Athénée; 25 avenue MontaigneMetro: Franklin D. Roosevelt01 �� 67 6� 0019.45-22.15 Mon-Fri; 12.45-14.45 Thu-FriBooking essentialCredit cards accepted€€€€As the first man ever to earn six Michelin stars (three for both of his two flagship restaurants in Monaco and Paris), Alain Ducasse merits all the accolades that come his way. The dining room is simple and elegant, and the service friendly but impeccable. Ducasse does not believe in the kind of intimidating atmosphere that some gourmet temples create, and with 55 staff serving 50 covers you receive every attention without them being over-fussy. It costs the earth, of course, but some of his dishes are legendary, like the truffle soup or the signature starter of langoustines and caviar. This alone costs €130, though entrées are in the €65-95 range.

Cinq Hôtel George V; 31 avenue George V Metro: George V01 �9 �2 71 ��07.00-10.00 Mon-Fri, 07.00-10.30 Sat-Sun 12.00-14.30 Mon-Fri, 12.30-14.30 Sat-Sun 18.30-23.00 dailyBooking for lunch and dinner essentialCredit cards accepted€€€€Cinq opened in 2000 and within three years had earned its three Michelin stars. The room is a mix of elegant greys and golds, always with a huge, stunning floral arrangement in the centre, one of the hotel’s notable features. But it’s the food that has propelled this into being one of the city’s best dining experiences. Try morel mushrooms stuffed with crab and lobster, or turbot with pumpkin and grape-fruit marmalade, and you’ll know why diners love it here.

pierre Gagnaire 6 rue Balzac Metro: Charles de Gaulle Étoile01 �8 �6 12 �012.30-14.00, 19.30-22.00 dailyBooking essential – credit cards accepted€€€€Originally from Montpellier, Gagnaire has brought the passion and sunshine of the south to the Art Deco elegance of the dining room at his restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe. There are several menu options, some of them priced very reasonably given the superb stan-dard of food on offer, especially at lunchtime when you have the best chance of getting a table. There are market menus, seasonal truf-fle menus and naturally a dégustation menu, but whichever you choose make sure you get the grand dessert Pierre Gagnaire, a 7-dish miniature dessert dégustation. Then call a cab.

9th arrondissement (Opéra and Pigalle)

Chartier 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre; Metro: Grands Boulevards01 �7 70 86 2911.30-15.00, 18.00-22.00 dailyBookings not taken – some credit cards€One of the great bargains – and great eating experiences – in Paris is at Chartier. It opened in 1896 as a working man’s café, and still has its turn-of-the-century decor and has been declared a national monument. You’ll probably have to queue but that’s all part of the Chartier experience. Once inside you’ll be rubbing shoulders with your neighbours and tucking into no-nonsense cooking like steak and chips or boeuf bourguignon, and the simple but very drinkable house wine. Then the waiter will scribble your bill on the paper tablecloth, though there’s no pressure to leave despite the endless queues.

11th arrondissement (Bastille, edge of Marais)

Au C’Amelot (Ar.11)50 rue Amelot; metro: Chemin Vert01 �� �� �� 0�12.00-14.00 Tue-Fri, 19.00-22.00 Tue-SatBooking recommended Some credit cards€€The stone-walled dining rooms and wooden beams give a homey feel to the place, and

this atmosphere matches the food. The menu is simple, based on what the chef finds at the market that day, with only two options for each course. There’s usually a soup to start, then maybe fish followed by wild boar or another meat choice. Service is friendly.

Bistro Mélac42 rue Léon Frot; metro: Charonne01 �� 70 �9 2709.00-late, Tue-Sat; closed: Sun-Mon Bookings not taken €€Twenty-five years ago Jacques Mélac planted some vines in his cellar. They have thrived and there’s even one growing in the bar. He har-vests his own grapes and also collects grapes from his friends to produce their own vintage: all 35 bottles of it. The Bistro serves hearty food from Aveyron such as aligot (mashed potatoes with garlic and a particular local cow’s cheese). Wines are personally chosen by Mélac, partly for taste and value, but also because he likes the winemakers. A sign on the wall reminds customers that ‘water is reserved for cooking potatoes’.

15th and 16th arrondissement

La Villa Corse 164 boulevard de Grenelle Metro: Cambronne01 �� 86 70 8109.00-02.00 Mon-Sat bar open12.00-14.00, 19.00-23.00 Mon-Sat food serviceBooking recommended for lunch or dinnerCredit cards accepted€€€A good Corsican restaurant, decorated in Mediterranean style, arranged around a central bar with comfy leather seating. Chef Henri Boutié serves delicious food – some favourites are: a mushroom fricassee starter, ravioli in cream sauce, grilled mullet, wild boar with chestnuts, lamb casserole.

Zébra square3 place Clément Ader; metro: Mirabeau01 �� 1� 91 91 08.00-02.00 bar open12.00-14.00, 19.00-23.00 food serviceBooking recommended Credit cards accepted€€€Depending on when you visit, Zébra Square can either be very good or too trendy for words. Food is generally good and the duck with figs is a sublime experience.

17th and 18 th arrondissement (North)

Le Relais de Venise 271 boulevard Pereire; metro: Porte Maillot01 �� 7� 27 97Bookings not taken – credit cards accepted€€Another variation of the set menu concept serving only steak and frîtes. For €22 you get a salad, steak and chips (with a second helping), wine and dessert.

Bistro des Dames 18 rue des Dames; metro: Place de Clichy01 �� 22 1� �212.00-14.30, 19.00-02.00 daily Open all day Sat-SunBook for the garden on Sunday€€A quiet little bistro with a pleasant garden. The interior is cave-like so come on a warm day. The gazpacho and tortilla jambon are good, but it’s not cheap at €13 for a main course. The large salads are fresh but beware, the salade des dames is served with (raw) duck. Bourgogne Aligote is only €3.50 for a glass.

pont des ArtsEach warm Thursday evening Paris-ians gather for a picnic on the wooden bridge. The atmosphere is festive as people spread their rugs on the warm wood, pour a glass of wine and dig into their picnics.

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Life is a CabaretThe spectacular cabarets of Paris have a special place in the history of the city. Shows are entertaining but expensive, and an evening could easily cost more than €100 per person if there is a com-pulsory drinks purchase. Some Paris night-time tours may offer better prices, enquire at the information center (page 7).

Bobin’o14-20 rue de la GaîtéMetro: Montparnasse, Edgar Quinet, Gaîté08 2000 9000www.bobino.frA cabaret, restaurant, lounge and club... Bobin’o is all of these things at once: an unusual modern cabaret with 40 dancers, musicians, magicians, drag artists... a restaurant where dinner is a genuine performance based on a succession of 10 dishes, a mezzanine area where you can party on into the night... Paris’ first cabaret lounge club, combining tradition and modernity, Bobin’o reinvents the very meaning of show all in one place, and is now one of the must-visit venues of Paris!

Moulin Rouge82 boulevard de Clichy; metro: Pigalle01 �� 09 82 82 www.moulinrouge.frThe giant red windmill on the edge of Montmartre is as Parisian as the Eiffel Tower. Both date from 1889, and the

Exposition Universelle in Paris (for which the tower was built). This was where Henri Toulouse-Lautrec found his models – dancers would earn extra money by posing for him. But there was a catch, since the diminutive artist regularly fell deeply in love with his models. Today, these paintings can be seen on the walls of the Musée d’Orsay. The Moulin Rouge is the home of the can-can, another Parisian icon, which is still the main attraction of its shows. Anyone going to the Moulin Rouge and not seeing a can-can would be bitterly disappointed... how many know that it was actually invented in London by an Englishman, Charles Morton, in 1861?

Le paradis Latin28, rue du Cardinal Lemoine Metro: Cardinal Lemoine, Jussieu01 �� 2� 28 28www.paradis-latin.comBuilt by Gustave Eiffel (he of the famous tower), Le Paradis Latin met with imme-diate success. Then, competing with the new fashionable district of Montmartre, the cabaret ran out of steam and closed down. Craftsmen and small manufac-turers moved in! In 1973, a property developer wanting to convert the building into flats discovered the iron structure then hidden by partition walls, the remains of decors… and a magnifi-cent cupola painted to reflect the glories of the Belle Epoque. Captivated by the space, he decided to restore this audito-

A feather in their capThere’s a story behind every detail of the lavish cabaret costumes of the Paris showgirls. The feathers in the headdresses of the girls at the Moulin Rouge come from the special-ist feather supplier Nicole Février, who since 1928 has supplied feath-ers to everyone from the legendary American dancer Josephine Baker to current Las Vegas shows and the fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. The feathers come mainly from cocks, ostriches and pheasants, arriv-ing from all over the world to the workshop on the Rue du Mail. Here they are brushed, washed, boiled, beaten, dyed and finally tested to see if they can stand up to the heat gen-erated by the powerful stage lights.

rium to its former glory and have it ring once more to the sound of live perform-ance. Today the new Paradis d’Amour review, performed by a company of 25 dancers, alongside a range of other attractions, carries the audience into the history of love…

Lido116 bis avenue des Champs-ÉlyséesMetro; George V01 �0 76 �6 10www.lido.fr

The Lido is relatively new, having only been inaugurated in 1946. By 1955 the Lido had opened in Las Vegas, and its shows today mix that Vegas pizzazz with Parisian flair, with the help of its own famous troupe of dancers, the Bluebell Girls. Exceptionally tall (at least 5’ 10”) and the epitome of the Parisian showgirl, many of them, in fact, are originally from England.

The troupe was first formed by Margaret Kelly in 1932. The first 24 girls danced in-between filming at a London Paramount cinema, and it wasn’t until the 1950s that the troupe moved to Paris and the Lido. The new producers requested the Bluebells dance topless but Ms Kelly took some convincing. It was only when the girls themselves insisted they really didn’t mind dancing topless, that she agreed.

Crazy Horse saloon12 avenue George V; metro: George V01 �7 2� �2 �2www.crazyhorse.frIn 1960 Alain Bernardin, a former antique dealer and painter, wanted to put some more passion into the existing show. He was familiar with the Surrealist and Avant-garde move-ments, where people like Andy Warhol and John Cage were doing challenging work. Bernardin was also fascinated by the American West, and aware of what was happening in the extravagant shows being staged in Las Vegas. He wanted to combine these elements and produce spectacular shows which highlighted the beauty of the female nude. So, that’s what he did, and what the show continues to do. It has a reputation for putting on the most spectacular productions with dazzling computer-controlled lighting effects, and much more nudity than the other famous Paris cabarets. The current production is aptly named Taboo.

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High fashionParis is still the centre of the fashion industry, with its spring and autumn fashion shows grabbing the attention of the world’s media. Top designers Christian Dior, Yves Saint-Lau-rent, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Sonia Rykiel, Karl Lagerfeld and Louis Vuitton all have their flagship sto-res in Paris. Window-shopping at these shops isn’t easy, as many take a minimalist approach to exterior decoration, and you have to pass security guards to enter the inner sanctums before seeing what’s on sale. Sales staff can tell your budget at a glance.The two best streets for designer shops are: the Avenue Montaigne, from Champs-Élysées to Pont de l’Alma, most of the big names are here: MaxMara, Valentino, Chanel, Calvin Klein, Prada, Jil Sander, Nina Ricci and Emanuel Ungaro. From Avenue Montaigne it’s only a short walk to the other essential address for the fashion-conscious: the Rue du Faubourg-saint-Honoré, here you’ll find designer accessories, perfumes, jewellery and luggage, not to mention wine shops, food stores, art galleries and antique shops. And the Presidential Palace – it’s that kind of street.

Agnès B6 rue du Vieux Colombier; metro: St-Sulpice01 �� �9 02 60This shop is part of a large French chain that has several branches in Paris. Their styles are trendy yet wearable and affordable.

isabel Marant1 rue Jacob: metro: Mabillon01 �� 26 0� 12Isabel designs clothing and accessories with a timeless quality that you can wear and wear.

A p C 3-4 rue des Fleurus; metro: St-Sulpice01 �2 22 12 77Popular amongst young Parisians, this shop sells fabulous clothes and great accessories.

Maria Luisa2 rue Cambon; metro: ConcordeTucked away on a side street behind a nondescript exterior, this shop features a great selection of avant-garde clothing including Alexander McQueen. There’s also a branch on Rue du Mont-Thabor selling accessories and Manolo Blahnik.

French lingerieThe French make the most beautiful lingerie and Paris has the very best shops, for you or for someone special.

Alice Cadolle14 rue Cambon; metro: Concorde255 rue Saint-Honoré; metro: TuileriesThis is the family that invented the brassiere. They have been in business since 1889 and styles are classical but sexy, with ready-to-wear items and a personal fitting service. Clients have included Mata Hari, Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve.

Fifi Chachnil26 rue Cambon; metro: Concorde 231 rue Saint-Honoré; metro: TuileriesThis designer has created costumes for stage, film and pop videos and her style is the blatantly pin-up look of the 1950s and 1960s, using bright colours. Fifi also produces a line of flattering swimwear.

Rugby shops

eden park192-194 and 202 rue de Courcelles10 rue de Buci; metro: Saint-Germain-des-PrésThe large flagship shop on Rue de Courcelles is a must-visit for all rugby fans. Eden Park was founded by two French rugby players, Franck Mesnel and Eric Blanc, who have designed a line of quality clothing for men, women and children. There is also a rugby bar on Rue Princesse.

Rugby World Cup 2007 Official Store32 avenue de l’Opera; metro: OpéraThis is your one-stop shop for official branded clothing and accessories.

shoppingParis was made for shopping, whether your interest is food, fashion or just plain fun. There are still plenty of quirky one-off shops in among the names like Prada, Armani, Gaultier and Lagerfeld. For every gourmet temple there’s a funky street market or little patisserie to tempt you. It’s become a cliché to describe cities as being made up of vil-lages, but it is true of Paris where each neighbourhood still has its own street market. Some areas have designer chocolatiers and others have horse-meat shops. It’s all here.

Most shops are open 10am to 7pm and closed on Sundays.

Accessoriesil pour l’homme209 rue Saint-Honoré; metro: TuileriesJust down the street from Colette is this shop with all those accessories men love. This is the place to buy your Zeiss binoculars and leather-bound hip flasks.

Marie Mercié23 rue St-Sulpice; metro: Mabillon01 �� 26 �� 8�11.00-19.00 Mon-SatThey design every type of hat imaginable; if you want a hat, you’ll it find here.

Jamin puech61 rue d’Hauteville; metro: Bonne-Nouvelle01 �0 22 08 �2Beautiful bags for all occasions from bohe-mian to trendy. Worth the extra effort of a trip to the 10th arrondissement.

perfumeMusée de la parfumerie Fragonard9 rue Scribe; metro Opéra01 �7 �2 0� �609.00-17.30 daily; free39 boulevard des Capucines01 �2 60 �7 1� 09.00-17.�0 Mon-SatHere you’ll learn the history of perfume- making —a fascinating story— and how a good perfume is created. If you make a pur-chase in the gift shop you can be confident

Department stores09.30-19.00 Mon-Fri, 09.30-20.00 SatTill 21.00 Thu

Le Bon Marché24 rue de Sèvres; metro: Sèvres-Babylone01 �� �9 80 00The only department store on the Left Bank and considered by many to be the best in Paris, with all the best designers.

Galeries Lafayette40 boulevard Haussmann; metro: Opéra01 �2 82 �6 �0A gigantic department store located directly opposite the Opéra with three buildings: Coupole (women and children), Homme (men) and Maison (home).

BHV36 rue de la Verrerie; metro: Hôtel de Ville The new area devoted to Men is especially worth a visit.

printemps64 bd Haussmann; metro: Opéra01 �2 82 �0 00A contemporary general department store.

Colette213 rue Saint-Honoré; metro: Tuileries01 �� �� �� 9010.�0-21.�0 Mon-SatA purely Parisian concept selling books, art and clothing in beautiful surroundings.

you’re buying the real thing and not just over-priced scented water.

L’Artisan parfumeur99 rue de Rivoli; metro: St-Paul01 �2 96 21 ��This boutique was founded by Jean Laporte in 1976 and offers a limited range of specially created fragrances. You are sure to find a scent for yourself or for a gift.

Maitre parfumeur et Gantier84 rue de Grenelle; metro: Rue du Bac01 �� �� 61 �710.�0-18.�0 Mon-SatThey sell the essences that go into the making of all perfumes (vanilla, rose, musk etc.) and will give advice on creating your own perso-nal fragrance.

Foodplace de la MadeleineWhen food lovers die, their heaven will resemble the Place de la Madeleine in the chic 8th arrondissement. The best collection of food shops in Paris surrounds a central church and spills out into nearby streets. Shops are often devoted to one type of produce: honey, cheese, chocolate or truffles – one just sells caviar. On the square itself are two of the most wonderful food shops in Paris: Fauchon and Hédiard. Fauchon is the Louvre of food shops, with eye-catching and mouth-watering window displays. Hédiard is more traditional, established in 1854, and selling spices, teas, exotic coffees, caviar and a cellar of 3,000 different wines. Heaven indeed.

Chocolate shopsParisians take chocolate seriously, though not as seriously as do the chocolatiers themselves. There are awards for the best chocolates, books of chocolate recipes and societies for people with a passion for chocolate.

Jean-paul HévinFlagship shop: 3 rue Vavin; metro: Vavin231 rue Saint-Honoré; metro: Tuileries16 and 23 avenue de la Motte Picquet (7th) One of the best chocolatiers in Paris, his chocolates have been compared to fine wines, because of the complexity of their taste. Over-exaggeration? Try one.

Christian Constant37 rue d’Assas; metro: VavinRivalling Hévin is Christian, who uses exotic flavours like cardamom. At his tea room next

to the shop you may indulge yourself with drinks that combine chocolate, jasmine, green tea and crème brûlée.

Debauve and Gallais30 rue des Saints-Pères; Metro: Sèvres-Babylone33 rue Vivienne; metro: PyramidesThey have been around since the early 19th century when they sold chocolate for medicinal purposes. You need no such excuse to sample their treats.

Michel Chaudun149 rue de l’Université; Metro: Saint-Germain-des-PrésFor chocolate lovers, traditional chocolatier Michel Chaudun is a name known to all chocolate connoisseurs.

BreadLionel poilâne8 rue du Cherche-Midi; metro: St-SulpiceIn France even bread-makers are revered, and none more so than Lionel. He opened his bakery in 1932, and it’s more popular now than ever. Restaurants boast of having his bread on their tables and queues form every day, especially for a fresh batch of his most famous loaf, the pain Poilâne.

CheeseBarthélemy51 rue de Grenelle; metro: rue de Bac01 �� �8 �6 7�Closed midday and Sun-MonThose who love French cheese should make sure to pay a visit to this fantastic shop.

Food markets Marché d’Aligre Rue d’Aligre; metro: Bastille Every afternoon South-east of Place de la Bastille is a very expensive indoor market where you can buy everything from wild boar and pheasants to saffron and other pricey spices. Outdoor is a more regular street market, and a flea market, and there are also some great bakers and other food shops around. One of the best wine bars in the area is Le Baron Rouge, at 1 rue Théophile-Roussel.

Marché Richard-LenoirBoulevard Richard Lenoir; metro: Bastille Thursdays and Sundays An afternoon farmers’ market with wine and other products from the Île-de-France.

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eclectic Le prince Jardinier37 rue de Valois; metro: musée du Louvre01 �2 60 �7 1�French gardening chic – Louis Vuitton claims this is where he buys his gardening shirts. A simple linen shirt is around €60 and a mat-ching garden hat will cost €35.

Au nom de la Rose46 rue du Bac; metro: Rue du Bac01 �2 22 22 12A theme shop devoted entirely to roses with everything from fresh bouquets to embroide-red towels.

Deyrolle46 rue du Bac; metro: Rue du Bac01 �2 22 �0 07An eccentric shop selling stuffed animals.

AntiquesHotel Drouot9 rue Drouot; metro: Le Peletier01 �8 00 20 20A 16-room venue that holds sales daily except Sunday. It attracts many of Paris’s top dealers and collectors who come to buy paintings, sculpture, furniture, jewellery and wine.

second-hand booksBouquinistesAlong the Seine, Pont de la Tournelle to Pont NeufThe word bouc means goat, referring to the skin once used in bookbinding. There have been stalls selling a variety of books and printed ma-terial along both sides of the river for 300 years.

shakespeare & Co37 rue de la Bucherie; metro: Saint-Michel01 �� 2� �0 9�Noon-midnight dailyAn English bookshop that has become a Paris institution. They also sell new books.

shopping arcadesCaire2 place du Caire; metro: Réaumur-SébastopolThis passageway, opened in 1798, was inspi-red by Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign. Today it houses an interesting selection of clothes shops.

Colbert/Vivienne16 rue des Petits-Champs; metro: BourseBuilt in 1823, this is one of the most opulent shopping arcades in Paris. Shops here are on the expensive side.

Galerie de la Madeleine9 place de la Madeleine; metro: MadeleineA 19th century arcade with interesting bouti-ques and food shops.

Flea marketsIf you’re looking for something a little less expensive than the latest Prada handbag, Paris has plenty of flea markets where you can hunt around for discards, seconds, fabrics, antiques or just plain old junk. Many designers check out the flea markets looking for ideas or unusual fabrics to inspire them. Alongside the food market on Rue d’Aligre is a little flea market (Tue-Sun) where you can find fabrics and funky junky clothes.

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Le Golf national2 avenue du Golf; 78280 Guyancourt01 �0 �� �6 00RER C7: St-Quentin-en-Yvelineswww.golf-national.comJust outside the town of Versailles, Le Golf National is France’s premier golf course and is ranked fourth among European courses. The venue for the French Open, it nonethe-less stays true to the nation’s spirit of égalité and is open to all. The complex includes the championship course, an 18-hole course, a nine-hole course, a six-hole pitch and putt, full practice facilities, the National Golf Academy and a Novotel. It is also the headquarters of the French Golf Federation. No buggies are allowed on the courses, but caddies are availa-ble. Practice facilities include a huge 150-bay driving range, putting and chipping greens. Professional coaches offer private lessons and five-day courses. Stay on-site at the Novotel with a view of the 18th green, or opt for luxury accommodation in nearby Versailles.

paris international Golf Club18 route du Golf95560 Baillet-en-France01 �� 69 96 1�www.paris-golf.com

The Paris International Golf Club offers top level services and facilities. Its 18-hole cham-pionship course is the only one in France de-signed by the famous Jack Nicklaus, weaving its way through a park of age-old trees and water features. Course open to non-members on weekdays.

Domaine de BélesbatCourdimanche-sur-Essonne91820 Boutigny-sur-Essonne01 69 2� 19 00RER D: Boutigny-sur-Essonnewww.belesbat.comA proper French-style resort! 50 km from Paris and in a 50-ha park, the estate has an 18-hole golf course over terrain that wends its way between sandy beach, river, lake, château and forest, a 4-star hotel with 60 rooms and suites located in historic buildings including the 17th-century château, a fitness centre, 2 swimming pools… Listed by the golfing press on several occasions as one of the 25 most beautiful golf courses in France, this haven of peace is well worth the trip... Places to visit in the imme-diate area: the Château de Fontainebleau, the Château de Vaux le Vicomte and the village of Barbizon, beloved of the painters Millet, Corot, Rousseau and others…

Golf de Fontenailles77370 Fontenailles01 6� 60 �1 00www.hotel-fontenailles.com60 km from Paris, Fontenailles is a remarka-ble spot that extends over 100 ha of forest. Around an old château converted into a 4-star hotel with gastronomic restaurant overlooking the greens, the 27-hole course winds through lakes, river and forest… Close by, the medie-val town of Provins, the village of Moret-sur-Loing so dear to Sisley, and the Château de Vaux le Vicomte, which was the inspiration for Versailles.

Golf du Domaine de Mont Griffon95270 Luzarches; SNCF: Luzarches01 �� 09 20 00 www.golfhotel.paris.com

(hotel only)

The vast and recently-built Domaine de Mont-Griffon resort extends across 250 ha of parkland. The 18-hole Lakes course provi-des not only a technically challenging game, but also beautiful views of the Ysieu valley. There’s also a golfing academy and some of the best and most up-to-date practice facilities in Europe.

Disneyland paris1 allée de la Mare-Houleuse; Magny-le-Hongre01 60 �� 68 90 RER A4: Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy www.disneylandparis.comEurodisney’s golf course was conceived following the Disney philosophy of providing amusement and entertainment. The course can be played in any combination of its three nines: Wonderland, Neverland and The Hundred Acre Wood courses, all named after Disney themes. The use of buggies is obligatory and walking on the course is not allowed. The impressive clubhouse overlooks the Wonderland course, but lacks the spirit of a real golf club.Accommodation is available at any of the seven hotels at the Disneyland resort which total no less than 5,700 rooms, ranging from 2 to 4 star, each with its own theme and atmosphere. Golf Getaway packages are available and include accommodation at the Newport Bay Club Hotel and a choice of Theme Park entrances or green fees for each day of your stay, so that golfers and their families can all have fun both on the fairways and at Disneyland.

Cély Château Golf & Country ClubRoute de Saint-Germain77930 CélyRER D: Melun01 6� �8 0� 07www.golf-albatros-cely.comOne of the gems among French courses. Very near to Fontainebleau, in the heart of an old park with a 14th-century château, the 18-hole course has greens that run along hillsides. The 4-star hotel offers luxurious suites with magnificent views…

Golf des yvelinesChâteau de la Couharde78940 La Queue-les-Yvelines01 �� 86 �8 89www.opengolfclub.com On the edge of the forest of Rambouillet and in the remarkable setting of a 17th-century château, the golf course has fairways in the midst of mature woodland. One of its special features is that it’s not unusual to come across deer here!

Golf de FontainebleauRN 152 – 77300 Fontainebleau01 6� 22 22 9�www.golfdefontainebleau.orgOne of France’s oldest golf courses, and one of the most beautiful too. Designed by English architects, this golf course is laid out right in the forest: its fairways, lined with trees of many different species, are guarded by bun-kers of fine sand or dense thickets of heather... everything that characterises the forest of Fon-tainebleau, with its seasonal changing colours. Not far from Barbizon, the 4-star Hôtellerie du Bas-Bréau is a unique holiday resort.

A variety of golf courses are within easy reach of Paris. Here is a small selection from over sixty courses in Ile-de-France! You’ll find them all listed on www.PIDF.com.

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Château de VersaillesOne look round the opulent palace and you know immediately why there was a French Revolution. It was commissioned by King Louis XIV (the Sun King) because he was jealous of the splendid château of Vaux le Vicomte, built by his finance minister, Nicolas Fou-quet (see page 69).

The King did not do things by halves. He hired the team that built Fouquet’s château and told them to build something that was a hundred times bigger. The result was Versailles, so vast that it needed a staff of about 20,000 people to look after the château, the royal family and their guests. Work began in 1668, and took some 14 years to complete. Louis was so delighted that he moved the royal household out of Paris and made Versailles his permanent home. It also had the advantage of being far away from his hungry and dis-gruntled citizens in Paris.

Years passed and in 1789 the French Revolution gained momentum, eventually forcing King Louis XVI to leave Versailles and return to Paris. Four years later, both King and Queen were dead, and forty years after that Versailles was surrendered to the State.

Visitors must join a guided tour which follows a set route. Once the tour has begun, it is not possible to turn around, slow down, or stop. What you see is impressive, especially the Hall of Mirrors which stretches for 233ft (70m) along the rear of the main palace. Its ceilings groan under the weight of enormous chandeliers, and the large windows fill the room with light which is reflected back by all the mirrors. The windows provide gorgeous views of the gardens and it is midly frustrating not to be able to stop and gaze out for a while. However, one cannot travel to Versailles without seeing the interiors. Arrive early in the morning to join the first tour and take the rest of the day to enjoy what is really special about Versailles – the gardens.

Château de VersaillesVersailles01 �0 8� 76 20 www.chateauversailles.fr09.00-18.30 Tue-Sun Last admission 18.00 Closed MonChâteau €8, gardens free

info on shows01 �0 8� 78 88 www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr

Getting thereTake the RER C5 line. The journey takes about 40 minutes and the Château of Versailles is a short walk from the RER station of Versailles-Rive Gauche.

A few kilometres from Paris, the Ile-de-France has dozens of exceptional places to visit. From Versailles to Disneyland Resort Paris or from Provins to the Mac/Val contemporary art museum, here is a small selection of new ways to discover its charm.

The gardens were designed by the noted landscape artist, André Le Nôtre (1613-1700). Le Nôtre, like his father before him, was head gardener at the Jardin des Tuileries, where the royal palace was located at the time. He planned the gar-dens at Vaux-le-Vicomte, which attracted the attention of Louis XIV. Le Nôtre’s work at Versailles was his most ambi-tious. The formal gardens make good use of water with numerous fountains. The Fountain of Latona dominates the area immediately behind the château. Latona was the mother of Apollo, the Sun God, and the gardens made full use of such imagery to flatter the Sun King. Further on is the Grand Canal, where the King and Queen used to hold lavish boating parties.

At the far end of the grounds is the Grand Trianon, built by Louis XIV in 1687 to escape the pressures of life at the château and where he could also entertain his mistress, Madame de Main-tenon, who he would eventually marry six months after the death of his wife. In 1768 Louis XV added another building, the petit Trianon. Both of these are more accessible than the main château.

events at Versailles for 2007• the Hall of Mirrors restored to its full splendour: since June, the masterpiece of the château is fully open following major restoration work. Its 357 mirrors, 18 crystal chandeliers, paintings by Le Brun… have recovered their former radiance!• in the private world of Marie-Antoinette: the Petit Trianon and its gardens are linked to the memory of Marie-Antoinette. Here you can appreciate the sophistication and art of living of the Queen, a figure much in vogue today.• Grandes eaux musicales, night-time shows and festivals: a walk in the gardens among the fountains and ornamental lakes, to the rhythm of baroque music; a night-time stroll among the flowerbeds and copses, to the charming sound of a choir of over 100 singers; fireworks in front of the grand canal… These are the spectacles during which Versailles appears at its most festive, by day or by night!• Versailles off: in October, when Paris has its “Nuit Blanche” all-nighter, Versailles offers a walk in the park and château with a chance to see contemporary art.• Académie du spectacle equestre: in remarkable buildings, the academy of equestrian arts directed by Bartabas offers a majestic spectacle: see the horses and riders, watch riding demonstrations to music in the Ring...Avenue Rockfeller - 78000 Versailles - 01 39 02 07 14 - www.acadequestre.fr

Disneyland Resort parisMarne-la-Vallée01 60 �0 60 �010.00-18.00 Mon-Fri, 09.00-20.00 Sat-Sun Adult day-pass €39, children 3-11 day-pass €29, under-3s free

If you’ve got children then there’s no doubt what the major attraction is in Paris. Not the Mona Lisa, not even the Eiffel Tower, but Disneyland. Don’t fight it, they’ll want to go. Allow them at least a full day, arriving early and leaving late, as the resort is big and queues can be long for popular rides and attractions. Some rides are worth taking twice. With over 12 million visitors per year, it is the most popular theme park in Europe.

The resort is divided into five different ‘lands’: Fantasyland, Discoveryland, Frontierland, Adventureland and Main Street USA. The special effects on most of the rides are fantastic, especially on the two most popular: Pirates of the Caribbean and Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (located in Adven-tureland). Discoveryland has the Space Mountain ride which hurtles you at enormous speeds through pitch black-ness, with only the sound of people’s screams for company.

Getting thereTake the RER A, which links with the Gare de Lyon, Châtelet-les Halles and Charles de Gaulle-Étoile metro stations. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy, the stop right outside Disneyland.

• Maison FournaiseIle des Impressionnistes - Chatou (78) RER A: Rueil Malmaison 01 �� 80 6� 22 www.musee-fournaise.com

• special train for Auvers (95)0 826 166 666 (€0.15/min)

• Château d’Auvers01 �� �8 �8 �8 www.chateau-auvers.fr

• Château de Fontainebleau (77)01 60 71 �0 70 www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr

• Auberge Ganne92 Grande rue Barbizon (77) RER D: Melun01 60 22 27 00

• provins (77)01 6� 60 26 26 (Tourist Office) www.provins.net

impressionism in the Île-de-FranceNumerous sites around Paris inspired the Impres-sionist painters. They gathered in houseboats and guinguettes (café-restaurants, usually open-air, with music and dancing) along the Seine, like the Maison Fournaise in Chatou depicted in Renoir’s Luncheon of the Boating Party, or pitched their canvases outdoors in villages such as Barbizon (at the Auberge Ganne, now a museum), Moret-sur-Loing (Sisley’s favourite) or Auvers-sur-oise (where Van Gogh is said to have painted 70 works in his 70-day stay!). A special train runs from Paris to Auvers where the excellent audio-visual presentation in the château explores the work of the Impressionists. They also liked to paint in the forest of Fontainebleau, the history of which can be discovered in a temporary exhibition in the nearby Château (till end September).

provins, a medieval crossroadsProvins was an important trading centre before the plagues and wars of the 14th century took their toll. Only an hour from Paris, it is now a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of the most coherent medieval sites in France, protected by extensive ramparts and riddled with intriguing underground galleries. All this and more is brought back to life with regular events based on falconry, jousting and the riding skills of the Mongolian steppes. Provins is also famous for its rose which finds its way into chocolates, honey, jellies and liqueurs, and is said to be the original red rose, through Edmund of Lancaster, of the Wars of the Roses.

Disneyland Resort Paris

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Disneyland Resort paris is 15!A new parade of Disney dreams, unusual encounters with famous characters, the latest underwater world of Nemo attraction, a crazy spinning ride down Route 66, and to finish, in early 2008, a dizzying dive into the fourth dimension… For its 15th birthday, Disneyland Resort Paris is pulling out all the stops with its innovative parades and attractions.

Musée de l’Air et de l’espace93352 Le BourgetMetro: La Courneuve + bus 152 RER B: Le Bourget + bus 15201 �9 92 70 62www.mae.orgTo 30/09, 10.00-18:.00. 01/10-31/03, 10.00-17.00; closed Mon, 25/12 and 01/01

Inaugurated in 1921, this is the world’s oldest aeronautical museum. Among the thousands of items on display are over 150 aircraft dating from the beginnings of powered flight including a Zeppelin gondola, a Spitfire, two Concordes, a Boeing 747 which you can visit from the cockpit to the baggage hold, a Soyuz command module, and lots of French civilan and military planes. There is a section dedicated to the French pilot St-Exupéry, a pioneer of the air-postal service and author of The Little Prince, a classic major piece. The 2nd World Simulation Show will be held here on 21-23 September, and in October there will be events to mark the 50th anniver-sary of Sputnik.

Casino & spa95880 Enghien-les-Bainswww.lucienbarriere.com30 minutes from the Champs-Elysées, Enghien-les-Bains has the region’s

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3,500 m² fitness centre, two lakeside hotels, a theatre… The atmosphere of a real resort on the edge of Paris!

Château de Vincennes and dungeonAvenue de Paris - 94300 VincennesRER A: Vincenneswww.monum.frAfter ten years restoration work, the keep at Vincennes has been restored to its full splendour. The tallest keep in Europe (50 m), it’s now the finest too! A new tour recounts the turbulent history of this fortress, from Sainte-Chapelle to the castle.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte77950 Maincy01 6� 1� �1 90www.vaux-le-vicomte.comRER D: Melun Chateaubus shuttle on Sat, Sun and public holidays - Shuttles from Paris: Paris Vision 01 42 60 30 01 or Euroscope 01 56 03 56 80)A masterpiece of 17th-century elegance, this château inspired the young Sun King to build Versailles! Richly furnished and decorated state rooms and private apartments, formal garden designed by André Le Nôtre… This is an extraor-dinary place that should be explored to the sound of classical music with a glass of champagne in your hand (there’s a champagne bar in the gar-dens), on special evening-openings when it is illuminated by 2,000 candles.

For more on paris and its regionYou will find practical information on places to visit on the official Paris Ile-de-France tourism website: www.piDF.comOpening times, prices… along with ideas for tours and excursions, a rolling calendar of events… Information for young people, families, sites with disabled access… Plenty of clear, accurate information on tourism and leisure in and around Paris.

Musée d’Art contemporain – Mac/ValPlace de la Libération - 94404 Vitry-sur-SeineRER C: Vitry-sur-Seine + bus 18001 �� 91 6� 20www.macval.fr12.00-19.00, Thu until 21.00; closed Mon, 01/05, 25/12 and 01/01In the space of just over a year, the Mac/Val has made a name for itself as one of the Ile-de-France’s most important contemporary art centres. Its themed tour (designed for those new to the sub-ject) of its thousand works of art introduces you to leading contemporary artists. In the same vein, the museum offers other original tours: family tours, a chat with an artist over a drink, or with an actor...

A Air and Space museum, 68Arc de Triomphe, 29Arrondissements, 6Auvers and the Impressionists, 66

BBars, 20Basilique Saint-Denis, 16Bibliothèque Nationale de France, 40Boat trip, 23

C Centre Pompidou, 35Cimetière de Montmartre, 45Cimetière du Montparnasse, 45Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, 45Cinémathèque française, 40Cité de l’Architecture, 28Cité des Sciences, 17Conciergerie, 25Contemporary Art museum (MAC/vAL), 69

DDecorative Arts, 32Disneyland, 69

EEiffel Tower, 26Enghien, Casino and Spa 68FFontainebleau, 66

GGolf, 62Grand Palais, 29

IIle de la Cité, 25Institut du Monde Arabe, 40

J Jardin des Plantes, 40Jardin des Tuileries, 33Jardin de Céleste, 40Jardins du Luxembourg, 41Jeu de Paume, 33

LLouvre, musée du 30

MMaison de victor Hugo, 36Maison européenne de la Photographie, 36Map (Paris), 10Marais, district of the 36Marché aux Puces, 16Mona Lisa, 30Montmartre, 44Musée Carnavalet, 36Musée Cognacq-Jay, 40Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, 36Musée d’Orsay, 34Musée de l’érotisme, 44Musée de la Curiosité, 36Musée de la Marine, 28Musée de Montmartre, 44Musée Guimet, 28Musée du Luxembourg, 41Musée national du Moyen-Âge, 40Musée National Picasso, 37Musée du quai Branly, 26Museum d’Histoire Naturelle, 40

NNightlife, 54Notre-Dame, 24

OOrangerie, the 33

PPalais de Tokyo, 28Parc des Princes, 18Parc de la Villette, 17Place des vosges, 37Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine, 37Provins, medieval town, 66

R Restaurants, 46-53Rue des Rosiers, 37Rue Mouffetard, 39

S Sacré-Cœur, 45Saint-Denis, 14 Rugby Festival 14 Stade de France® 12Sainte Chapelle, 25Saint Germain des Prés, 38Seine, river 22Shopping, 56Stadiums, Parc des Princes, 18 Stade de France®, 12

TTrains, 6Travel, 6

Vvaux le vicomte, château de, 69versailles, 64vincennes, château and dungeon, 68

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PHOTOGRAPHYMaison de la France: Camille (pg 29 down); Cras (pg 27), Thierry (pg 24).

Paris Île-de-France Tourist Board (CRT): Pinheira (pg 8, 16 top); Thierry (pg 29 top, 30-31, 32, 35 down); Chancel (pg 40 down); Prunevieille (pg 66); Tripelon-Jarry (pg 26, 40 top).

Paris Tourist Office: Charaffi (pg 35 top); Dupont (pg 9 left, 25, 39, 41, 49 top, 53); Garat (pg 9 right); Lefeuvre (pg 38 top); Lefranc (pg 4-5, 33, 42, 45); Mesnildrey (pg 34); Potignon (pg 44); Terrier (pg 36-37 top).

The Purple Guide: Caton Hope (pg 6, 12, 17, 20, 21, 22-23, 36-37 down, 38 down, 47, 48, 49 down, 50, 51, 58, 61, 63).CDT 93/Beguin (pg 68 down); CMN/Cadet (pg 68 top); Disney 2007 (pg 67); Elle UK (pg 69 right); Golf de Fontenailles/DR (pg 62); IRB (pg 1); Millet (pg 65); Le Moulin Rouge (pg 54); Le Stade Restaurant (pg 19) ; Lido (pg 55); Musée Guimet/Pinon (pg 28) ; Paris Tourist Office (pg 7); Saint-Denis Tourist Office (pg 14, 17) ; Saint-Ouen Tourist Office (pg 16 down); Vaux le Vicomte/DR (pg 69 left); 0927 Production (pg 19).

COVER

Front cover: Popperfoto/Alamy, Maison de la France (Thierry), Paris Île-de-France Tourist Board (Thierry).

Back cover: Paris Île-de-France Tourist Board (Prunevieille, Tripelon-Jarry), Paris Tourist Office (Lefranc).

ARCHITECTSMacary, Zublena, Regembal, Costantini (Stade de France®).Leoh Ming Peï (pyramide du Louvre).Renzo Piano & Richard Rogers (Centre Pompidou).

MAPSParis map (pg 10-11) : David Burles ands Janes Voss of Anderson Geographics Ltd, Bracknell, Berkshire, UK; © 2007 The Purple Guide Ltd.Redrawn from source maps provided by Blay Foldex. © Blay Foldex No 23065.Stadium maps: Rugby World Cup 2007 Organising Committee, used by permission.

PUBLISHING INFORMATION

Original bookThis book in an extract from the Official Travel Guide of the Rugby World Cup 2007, published in the United Kingdom in March 2007 by:The Purple Guide LtdTeddington Studios – Broom RoadTeddington Middlesex – TW11 9NTSenior editor: Robin BellEditor: Hope CatonDesign: Sharon Platt© 2007 The Purple Guide LtdAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publisher.

Special editionPublished by the Paris Île-de-France Tourist Board (CRT)11, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière – 75009 Paris – FrancePresident of the CRT: Henriette ZoughebiProject Manager and author for the CRT: Raphaël Bouveret, with the help of the Marketing DirectionPublished in partnership with Hachette Tourisme (HACHETTE LIVRE)Direction: Nathalie PujoCommercial contact: André Magniez (amagniez@hachette-livre.fr)Editor: Raphaële WauquiezLayout: Les PAOistes

Printed in Spain by Mateu CromoLegal deposit No 90047 - July 2007 - Ed.01

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englandsouth Africa

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Australia Canada

FijiWalesJapan

Group A Fixtures

Date Match Venue Result

8 Sept England v USA Lens

9 Sept S Africa v Samoa St.Denis

12 Sept USA v Tonga Montpellier

1� Sept England v S Africa St.Denis

16 Sept Samoa v Tonga Montpellier

22 Sept England v Samoa Nantes

22 Sept S Africa v Tonga Lens

26 Sept Samoa v USA St.Etienne

28 Sept England v Tonga Paris

�0 Sept S Africa v USA Montpellier

Winner

Runner up

pooL A pooL B

Group B Fixtures

Date Match Venue Result

8 Sept Australia v Japan Lyon

9 Sept Wales v Canada Nantes

12 Sept Japan v Fiji Toulouse

1� Sept Wales v Australia Cardiff

16 Sept Fiji v Canada Cardiff

20 Sept Wales v Japan Cardiff

2� Sept Australia v Fiji Montpellier

2� Sept Canada v Japan Bordeaux

29 Sept Australia v Canada Bordeaux

29 Sept Wales v Fiji Nantes

Winner

Runner up

Knockout stagesDate Match Teams Venue Result

6 Oct Quarter Final 1 Winner pool B v Runner up pool A Marseille

6 Oct Quarter Final 2 Winner pool C v Runner up pool D Cardiff

7 Oct Quarter Final 3 Winner pool A v Runner up pool B Marseille

7 Oct Quarter Final 4 Winner pool D v Runner up pool C St.Denis

Group stages

TM © Rugby World Cup Limited 1986 - 2007. All rights reserved.

New ZealandScotland

ItalyRomaniaPortugal

FranceIreland

ArgentinaGeorgiaNamibia

Group C Fixtures

Date Match Venue Result

8 Sept N Zealand v Italy Marseille

9 Sept Scotland v Portugal St.Etienne

12 Sept Italy v Romania Marseille

15 Sept N Zealand v Portugal Lyon

18 Sept Scotland v Romania Edinburgh

19 Sept Italy v Portugal Paris

23 Sept Scotland v N Zealand Edinburgh

25 Sept Romania v Portugal Toulouse

29 Sept Scotland v Italy St.Etienne

29 Sept N Zealand v Romania Toulouse

Winner

Runner Up

POOL C POOL D

Group D Fixtures

Date Match Venue Result

7 Sept France v Argentina St.Denis

9 Sept Ireland v Namibia Bordeaux

11 Sept Argentina v Georgia Lyon

15 Sept Ireland v Georgia Bordeaux

16 Sept France v Namibia Toulouse

21 Sept France v Ireland St.Denis

22 Sept Argentina v Namibia Montpellier

26 Sept Georgia v Namibia Lens

30 Sept France v Georgia Marseille

30 Sept Ireland v Argentina Paris

Winner

Runner Up

Knockout stagesDate Match Teams Venue Result

13 Oct Semi Final 1 Winner QF1 v Winner QF2 St.Denis

14 Oct Semi Final 2 Winner QF3 v Winner QF4 St.Denis

19 Oct 3rd place play-off Paris

20 Oct Final St.Denis

Match Schedule

Sports…

From 7 September to 20 October, France will be fired up with the excitement of the matches of the Rugby World Cup 2007. In Paris Ile-de-France, where many matches will take place at the Parc des Princes and the Stade de France – including the semi-finals and the final, we’re all set to welcome you and make sure you have access to all the information you need: lots of informa-tion desks, special publica-tions, activities, big screens showing the matches... and even the Eiffel Tower lit up in the event’s colours!

Leisure…

Don’t let your visit to the re-gion pass by without explo-ring its many different sides.

From France’s newest mu-seums to Unesco World Heritage sites, from the new cabaret-lounge-club to Le Green tucked away in the forest, Paris Ile-de-France has lots of remarkable treasures for you to track down between matches.

Whether you’re a rugby fanatic or culture vulture, a shopping addict or lover of peace and quiet, there’s plenty for everyone in Paris Ile-de-France.

All you have to do is choose.

TM©RugbyWorldCupLimited1986–2007.Allrightsreserved.

A rendez vous in Paris Ile-de-France

WORLD CUP

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