RUSSIA’S SILVER AGE FROM FABERGÉ TO THE AVANT-GARDE JANUARY 5-18, 2021 TOUR LEADER: DR MATTHEW DAL SANTO

Overview Immerse yourself in the energy, splendour and romance of turn-of-the-century Russia. Our tour begins with seven nights in Moscow’s famous Metropol Hotel, setting of Amos Towles’ best-selling A Gentleman in Moscow and a Silver Age icon in its own right, opened in 1903. Enjoy breakfast in the glass-domed ballroom or order a drink at the same bar as Count Rostov after an evening at the Bolshoi, and profit from the Metropole’s prime location at the very heart of Russia’s buzzing, modern capital. Russia is today the world’s largest Orthodox nation, and the tour is timed to coincide with the romance of Orthodox Christmas (7 January), when Red Square is decked with lights and St Basil’s polychromatic onion domes glisten under a crust of snow. Travelling by modern, high-speed train to St Petersburg, we then savour six nights at the elegant Astoria (established 1911), where the vista of perfectly starched liveries brings to life the refined atmosphere of late Imperial Russia’s gilded capital. A generation after the collapse of Communism, the mantle of Soviet “Leningrad” has been swept away to reveal the city of the Tsars in its former glory. Both cities boast an outstanding assembly of world-class museums and galleries, combined with excellent restaurants, almost unlimited opportunities for shopping and, of course, two of the world’s most acclaimed ballet companies. With a focus on the artistic and architectural legacy of Russia’s Silver Age, we visit not only the best-known but also the smaller, more intimate venues usually omitted from generalist itineraries, while morning lectures with a period specialist put the Silver Age’s leading artistic figures and movements in context ahead of gallery and museum visits.

Your tour leader Dr Matthew Dal Santo is a historian with a longstanding love for the history and culture of late Imperial Russia. Author of The Romanovs and the Redemption of Russia (Princeton University Press, forthcoming), he is an expert in the cultural, philosophical and theological dimensions of Russia’s extraordinary Silver Age (and a keen observer of modern-day Russians’ ongoing grappling with them today).

With a BA (Hons I) from the University of Sydney and PhD from Cambridge, he has been a Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge; the University of Copenhagen, Denmark; the Kennan Institute for Russian and Eastern European Affairs, Washington, D.C.; and the Catholic University of America, Washington, D.C. Having led Academy Travel’s standard Moscow & St Petersburg tour for many years, he is an experienced and popular tour leader, who also leads Academy Travel’s Siberia & Russian Far East and Caucasus: Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan tours. Living in Copenhagen, Denmark, with his wife and daughter, he speaks Russian, French, Italian, and Danish. He is convinced that nobody who encounters the legacy of the Russian Silver Age will come away anything but dazzled.

RUSSIA’S SILVER AGE FROM FABERGÉ TO THE AVANT-GARDE

Tour dates: January 5-18, 2021

Tour leader: Dr Matthew Dal Santo

Tour Price: $12,125 per person, twin share

Single Supplement: $2,135 for sole use of double room

Booking deposit: $1000 per person

Recommended airline: Emirates and Qatar Airways

Maximum places: 20

Itinerary: Moscow (7 nights), St Petersburg (6 nights)

Date published: May 11, 2020

Enquiries and bookings

For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Jamal Fairbrother at Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email jamal@academytravel.com.au

Tour Highlights

THE GLAMOUR AND ELEGANCE Experience the glamour and elegance of late Imperial Russia with 13 nights in two of Russia’s most iconic and elegant Silver Age hotels. Fancy yourself a “gentleman in Moscow” at the art nouveau Metropol (1903) and imagine the purr of Petersburg high society at the aristocratic Astoria (1911). Both hotels have been fully renovated and simultaneously offer the highest modern comfort.

THE DAZZLING ART & ARCHITECTURE Explore the dazzling array of art and architecture of Russia’s Silver Age. Discover the legacy of a cultural renaissance as creatively bold and fertile as any in history and learn how the Russian arts were transformed from the realism of “The Wanderers” to the arrival of the art nouveau and the birth of Russia’s world-changing avant-garde, in an outstanding array of galleries and museums.

THE ROMANCE OF A RUSSIAN CHRISTMAS Trade the heat of the Australian summer for snow-blanketed Russia. Savour the magical interaction of snow, fairy lights, and onion domes of Russian Orthodox Christmas in Moscow’s bewitching Red Square, attend the solemn, candle-lit Christmas liturgy and enjoy a traditional Russian church choir, and glide across the frozen park of one of the Tsar’s palaces in a troika or traditional horse-drawn sleigh.

THE WORLD’S GREAT BALLET COMPANIES Enjoy a Russian Christmas institution with a matinée performance of Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker by the acclaimed Bolshoi, see the stage as the Tsar himself did with exclusive use of the Imperial Box at a performance by St Petersburg’s Mariinsky, and compare the merits and very differing styles of these modern-day successors to Russia’s famed Imperial Ballet.

THE TRAGEDY OF WAR & REVOLUTION Retrace the footsteps of Russia’s last Tsar Nicholas II and the revolutionaries who agitated for the downfall of the Romanovs, and, stepping into the world of Boris Pasternak’s Doctor Zhivago, learn why the Russian Empire’s Silver Age renaissance instead miscarried into the Civil War and 70 years of Communist dictatorship – with repercussions for the whole world.

Detailed itinerary Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

Tuesday January 5 ARRIVE MOSCOW

Arrival day. Join the tour leader and manager for welcome drinks and a tour of Count Rostov’s haunts before a light dinner in our hotel, the famous Moscow Metropol. Overnight Moscow (D)

Wednesday January 6 Red Square & St Basil's (Orthodox Christmas Eve)

The tour begins with a lecture in the hotel on the political and social history of Late Imperial Russia, from the assassination of Tsar Alexander II in 1881 to the October Manifesto of 1905 (which granted Russians their first political and civil rights) as the setting for the cultural and artistic explosion of the Silver Age. Afterwards, we depart on a walking tour of Moscow’s iconic Red Square, stately GUM shopping complex (glittering this time of year with Christmas lights) and the unmistakable St Basil’s Cathedral. Impressive at any time, Red Square resounds in winter with the swoosh of ice-skates. This evening we enjoy our own Russian-style Christmas dinner at a central Moscow restaurant. Overnight Moscow (B, D)

Thursday January 7 The Nutcracker at the Bolshoi (Orthodox Christmas Day)

We begin with the first of several lectures on the art of the Russian Silver Age. Our focus today is on the “The Wanderers” (or peredvizhniki in Russian) who, in breaking away from the Russian Academy of Art in the 1870s, set in motion the revival of a distinctly Russian national artistic tradition and the arrival and reception in Russia of the principles and techniques of Western European impressionism. By tradition, the Bolshoi stages a sumptuous production of Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker every Christmas and this afternoon we enjoy a matinée performance of this classic ballet in its land of origin. The evening is at leisure. Overnight Moscow (B)

Friday January 8 Old Tretyakov & Pushkin Museums

Today, we immerse ourselves in Russia’s Silver Age. Our first visit is to the so-called “Old” State Tretyakov Museum. Originally

Above: Moscow's iconic Red Square, flanked by the onion domes of St Basil Cathedral under a blanket of snow Below: Christmas comes alive outside the stately GUM shopping complex, with markets filling Red Square; and the Bolshoi’s sumptuous production of Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker

Tour start & finish time

The tour begins at 3.00pm on Tuesday January 5, at The Metropol Hotel, Moscow.

The tour ends after breakfast on Monday January 18, at The Astoria Hotel, St Petersburg.

Images right: Valentin Serov's Girl with Peaches, 1887, considered to be one of his greatest works and a masterpiece of Russian painting; the

Art Nouveau staircase in Gorky's House (Ryabushinsky Mansion); and Chagall's Over Vitebsk (Over the Town), 1913, shows Chagall and his

wife flying above Vitebsk – the small town where he grew up

a private collection, the Tretyakov houses the world’s premiere collection of Russian art. We concentrate on the period between 1871 and 1914, when the focus of Russian art migrated from realism to landscape and impressionist-style experimentation. The gallery has a cosy restaurant and, after lunch, we explore the nearby Marfo-Mariinsky Convent (founded by Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna – elder sister of Russia’s last Empress – after the assassination of her husband in 1905) which is decorated with frescoes by the acclaimed Silver Age artist Mikhail Nesterov. We then travel by coach to Ryabushinsky Mansion (also known as “Gorky’s House”), a celebrated art nouveau dwelling designed by Russia’s leading architect of the style moderne, Feodor Shechtel, in 1902. After a break for afternoon tea, we conclude the day with a guided tour of the famous impressionist galleries of Moscow’s just renowned Pushkin Museum – a leading source of inspiration at the dawn of the 20th century for Russia’s emerging avant-garde artists. Overnight Moscow (B)

Saturday January 9 The Kremlin

The Orthodox religion, with otherworldly icons, liturgy and centuries-old mystical tradition, was “re-discovered” by Russia’s previously positivist and Enlightenment-inspired intelligentsia during the Silver Age. At that time, the Kremlin was as much a religious citadel as it was a political one, and our touring this morning begins with a visit to the Kremlin’s ancient, onion-domed cathedrals at their most beautiful under a crust of snow. Usually closed to tourist groups, the sumptuous Grand Kremlin Palace (the Tsar’s Moscow residence before the Revolution) will also open its door to us. Exiting the Kremlin for lunch, we resume with a guided tour of the Bolshoi Theatre, recently restored to its late Imperial splendour. Of all Russia’s Silver Age artists, none reflects its fascination with theosophy and Eastern religions as well as the controversial Nikolai Roerich, and this evening there is an optional visit to Moscow’s newly opened Roerich Museum. Overnight Moscow (B)

Sunday January 10 New Tretyakov Museum & Gorky Park

The morning begins with a second lecture on the art of the Russian Silver Age, which focuses this time on the emergence of the avant-garde of Russian post-impressionists (Malevich, Chagall, Kandinsky, Larionov, Goncharova). We then tour the New Tretyakov Museum, which houses a superb collection of the works of all these artists (as well as a large collection of Soviet Realism). When the USSR collapsed, redundant monuments to Soviet leaders were collected for posterity in a garden outside the Museum, and we conclude our visit to the New Tretyakov with a stroll through this evocative “Park of Fallen Statues”. A short walk brings us to Gorky Park – a vast pleasure ground that is location in winter for some of the world’s longest man-made

ice-skating trails. Join thousands of Muscovites in one of their favourite wintertime activities or come on an optional tour of the nearby Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, Russia’s foremost contemporary art venue. This evening we dine together at the famous Café Pushkin, which exudes the charm and elegance of fin-de-siècle Moscow. Overnight Moscow (B, D)

Monday January 11 Novodevichy Convent & Boris Pasternak's house

This day begins with a visit to the beautiful, UNESCO-listed Novodevichy Convent in the city’s south. Founded in the 16th century, the Novodevichy (New Maidens’) Convent was reserved for the daughters of the Tsar and higher court aristocracy, and its central, onion-domed Cathedral of Our Lady of Smolensk is one of the great monuments of medieval Muscovite architecture (and particularly attractive under snow). Little known outside Russia, the leading intellectual figure of Russia’s Silver Age, philosopher and theosophist Vladimir Solovyov, lies buried in the convent’s necropolis, while other leading cultural and artistic figures of the age (Chekov, Prokofiev, Stanislavsky) are buried in the nearby cemetery. After lunch in a local restaurant, we travel by coach to the old Soviet Writers’ colony of Peredelkino on Moscow’s leafy, southern outskirts. Born in 1890, Pasternak came of age in Russia’s Silver Age and later evoked drama, tumult and demise in his great novel, Doctor Zhivago (which won him the 1958 Nobel Prize for Literature). We visit the period home in which he wrote the novel, carefully preserved by his descendants. Overnight Moscow (B, L)

Tuesday January 12 General Staff Building & Russian High Tea

Today we migrate to Russia’s capital during the Silver Age, the former city of the Tsars, St Petersburg. Travelling by modern high-speed train, we reach St Petersburg just after lunch which we enjoy while watching Russia’s snow-blanketed winter landscape slip by beyond the windows of the train. Our residence in St Petersburg is the Astoria, opened in 1911 and again today one of the city’s most elegant establishments. This afternoon we visit the General Staff Building, an independent department of the State Hermitage Museum that houses an outstanding collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist art. Dinner tonight is taken in the form of traditional Russian high tea at the matchless Astoria. Overnight St Petersburg (B, L, D)

Wednesday January 13 Fabergé Museum & State Hermitage

We begin the day with a lecture on one of the Silver Age’s best-known and most tragic figures, Russia’s last Tsar Nicholas II and his family. Though widely disparaged as an incompetent reactionary, Nicholas created the conditions that made Russia’s Silver Age renaissance possible and his and Alexandra’s sense of aesthetics and spirituality were surprisingly in harmony with Silver Age preoccupations. Afterwards, we visit the Fabergé

Above: a view through the arch of the General Staff Building in Palace Square, St Petersburg, adorned with its very own Christmas Tree

Below: the Lilies of the Valley Egg – a jewelled Fabergé egg made in 1898. The egg is one of the two eggs in the Art Nouveau style and was presented on April 5 to Tsar Nicholas II, who gave it as a gift to his wife, the Tsarina, Empress Alexandra Fyodorovna

Museum, an outstanding private collection of the sumptuous, jewel-encrusted eggs that the Romanovs exchanged every year at Easter, as well as other works from Fabergé’s fabulous workshop. This afternoon we gather again for a guided tour of the world-famous State Hermitage Museum. One of the world’s great repositories of art, the Hermitage is housed in St Peterburg’s iconic Winter Palace (before the Revolution, the Tsar’s official home), and our tour includes the Palace’s history-laden State Rooms as well as the highlights of the Museum’s priceless art collection. Extended opening hours (until 9pm) leave plenty of time for further private exploration. Overnight St Petersburg (B)

Thursday January 14 A Cathedral, a Mosque & a Buddhist Temple

Founded by Nicholas II in 1895, the Russian Museum is today second only to Moscow’s Tretyakov for its ensemble of Silver Age art. We enjoy a curator-led tour of the collection, including renowned works by Bakst, Vrubel, Malevich, Kandinksy and Filonov. Intense spirituality was a major feature of Russia’s Silver Age, when Russians enjoyed freedom of conscience for the first time. After free time for lunch in the museum café, we depart on a tour of three of this period’s most visually arresting places of worship, including the famous 1912 Church on the Spilled Blood (with its 300 sqm of shimmering mosaics), and St Petersburg’s first mosque (1908) and Buddhist temple (1913). The day concludes with a private concert and hors d’oeuvres at the splendid apartment of Late Imperial Russia’s most celebrated bass, Feodor Chaliapin. Overnight St Petersburg (B)

Friday January 15 Tsarskoye Selo: Alexander & Catherine Palaces

Nestled in a line of low hills 30km south of St Petersburg, the so-called “Imperial Village” of Tsarskoe Selo is the site of the Alexander Palace which from 1904 until the Tsar’s abdication in 1917 was Nicholas and Alexandra’s permanent home and Russia’s de facto seat of government. Refurbished in art nouveau style in 1902, the Palace has been painstakingly restored to its Silver Age glory and offers a unique insight on the couple as a product of this period of experimentation. The vast park was a favourite winter playground for the Romanov children, and we relive their pleasures by gliding across its frozen surface in a traditional Russian three-horse sleigh or troika. After a warming lunch in a local restaurant, we enjoy a guided tour of the magnificent, gilded halls of Rastrelli’s rococo masterpiece, the Catherine Palace. Commissioned for Empress Elizabeth in the 1750s, the Palace houses the renowned Amber Room. We return, rosy-cheeked, to St Petersburg in the late

Images right: Vrubel's The Six-Winged Seraph, 1904. Vrubel is usually regarded as the greatest Russian painter of the Symbolist movement; the Saint Petersburg Mosque, which opened in 1913, opposite the Peter and

Paul Fortress in the city centre; and the Feodor Chaliapin House-Museum, opened in 1988, is one of the few surviving 18th century estates in Moscow

afternoon. The evening is at leisure. Overnight St Petersburg (B, L)

Saturday January 16 Yusupov Palace & Mariinsky Theatre

Russia’s Silver Age renaissance ended in the triple catastrophe of revolution, civil war and Communist dictatorship. We begin with a lecture on how this came to be before a visit to St Peterburg’s Yusupov Palace, where the first act in the revolution took place: the murder in December 1916 of the Siberian “holy man” Rasputin. We tour the basement, where every fantastic step in the famed drama has been recreated by waxwork, as well as the rest of the Palace’s sumptuous rooms. The afternoon is at leisure before we reconvene for an evening at St Petersburg’s acclaimed Mariinsky Ballet (once the Tsar’s private company). With exclusive use of the former Imperial Box, we enjoy a view of the stage on which all the greats (Pavlova, Nijinsky, Kschessinskaya) of Russia’s Imperial ballet once danced from the very angle the Tsar himself would have enjoyed it. Overnight St Petersburg (B)

Sunday January 17 Romanov Mausoleum & Anna Akhmatova Apartment

We continue the theme of revolution with a visit to the Romanov Mausoleum in St Petersburg’s Peter & Paul Fortress. Founded by Peter the Great, the Fortress later became a political prison whose fall during the 1917 February Revolution was likened by contemporaries to the French revolutionaries’ storming of the Bastille. At the Fortress’s centre, the Cathedral Mausoleum housed the resting place of every ruling Romanov from Peter onwards. That now includes Nicholas II, his wife and children, whose remains – exhumed from the mud of the Siberian forest in which they were murdered by the Bolsheviks in 1918 – were interred here in 1998. Choose to enjoy our last afternoon at leisure or join an optional visit to the apartment of one of the Silver Age’s greatest poets, the indomitable Anna Akhmatova, who lived in the Sheremetyev family’s Fountain House as it and scores of other palaces were transformed by the Bolsheviks into workers’ communes. Between 1941 and 1944, the Tsars’ former capital was almost starved out of existence by the invading Nazis, and the day concludes with a brief visit to the moving memorial to the 900-day blockade’s 700,00 victims. This evening we gather for our farewell dinner at St Petersburg’s oldest operating dining establishment, Palkin Restaurant, which keeps the spirit of Imperial Russia alive with outstanding cuisine and liveried waiters. Overnight St Petersburg (B, D)

Monday January 18 Depart St Petersburg

The tour concludes this morning at the Astoria Hotel. Additional, private touring can be arranged for those with late departures. (B)

Images left: the opulent lifestyle of the tsars is highlight at the magnificent Catherine Palace; a traditional Russian three-horse sleigh or troika; and the former Imperial Box at St Petersburg’s acclaimed Mariinsky Ballet

Hotels On this tour, the hotels we have chosen to stay in are an essential element of the total Silver Age experience. Both date from the early 20th century and, while carefully preserving the original period charm and character, have been extensively renovated to ensure maximum convenience and comfort.

Moscow, The Metropol (7 nights) metropol-moscow.ru/en/ Opened in 1903, with a façade adorned with magnificent mosaic murals by the renowned Symbolist painter Mikhail Vrubel, the Metropol is a Moscow landmark known as the setting for Amos Towles best-selling novel A Gentleman in Moscow. To walk through the doors is to step back in time to Russia’s Silver Age, the art nouveau fittings (including the original leadlight lift) having been carefully preserved throughout. A champagne breakfast is served daily in the glass-domed ball room, often to the sounds of a live harpist, while the stylish bar is an ideal venue to relax after a day’s touring. The Executive Superior rooms we have reserved for the group’s use are spacious and have been fully renovated to modern standards of comfort. A five-minute walk to the Bolshoi Theatre, Red Square and the Kremlin leaves the heart of Moscow at your feet.

St Petersburg, The Astoria (6 nights) www.roccofortehotels.com Opened in 1911, the Astoria effortlessly captures the aristocratic elegance of late Imperial St Petersburg. From the Gobelins tapestry hanging behind the reception desk to the Imperial Porcelain of the tea service, quality and attention to detail are never wanting. A Petersburg institution, Russia high tea (complete with savoury pirozhki, fresh bliny, and a mouth-watering array of pastries) is served daily in the refined yet intimate atmosphere of the Rotonda Lounge. The recently renovated rooms are equipped with all modern conveniences. Opposite the shiny gilded dome of St Isaac’s and a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt and the Winter Palace, the Astoria stands in the heart of Petersburg’s monumental historical centre.

Weather on tour Russia in winter is cold. Temperatures can range from -10ºC or -15ºC to just above freezing point. Wind chill can make these temperatures feel colder than they are. By January, Russia typically wears a white blanket of snow that is thinner in the cities than in the countryside. Though such conditions will be unfamiliar to most Australians, they do not have to be uncomfortable. High-quality modern jackets (especially those filled with natural fibres such as down) will keep you pleasantly warm when worn over the top of a more familiar layering of underwear, heavy shirt, and woollen jumper. Good-quality, waterproof footwear is essential, with a non-slip sole. And don’t forget your sunglasses!

Fitness Requirements of THIS tour

GRADE THREE

It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness required to participate on our tours, we have given them a star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.

Participation criteria for this tour

This Grade Three tour is among our most physically demanding. To participate on this tour, you should be able to comfortably undertake up to seven hours per day, over several days. Activities may include travelling long distances, walking on difficult terrain, climbing stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, exposure to varying climatic conditions and long days of touring. These tours may include one-night stops and early starts. You should be able to: keep up with the group at all times walk for 5-7 kilometres at a moderate pace with only

short breaks stand for a reasonable length of time in museums and at

sites tolerate extremely cold weather with temperatures

consistently well below zero maintain a reasonable level of physical and respiratory

fitness tolerate a diet that can be significantly different from a

typical Australian diet, and where some dietary requirements cannot be met

walk up and down slopes negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites or

mountain paths, which are often uneven and unstable get on and off a large coach with steep steps, train or

boat unassisted, possibly with luggage move your luggage a short distance if required

A note for older travellers

We regret that we are not able to accept bookings on a Grade Three tour from people more than 80 years old, or with restricted mobility.

Tour Price The tour price is $12,125 per person, twin share (land content only). The supplement for a single room is $2,135 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $1000 per person is required to secure a place on the tour.

Tour Inclusions

Included in the tour price

All accommodation in five-star hotels All breakfasts, and additional meals as indicated in the

itinerary Land travel by air-conditioned coach Business class rail travel between Moscow and St

Petersburg A matinée performance at the Bolshoi and an evening

performance at the Mariinsky (with exclusive use of the Imperial Box)

All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary Services of Australian tour leader and tour manager

throughout the tour Qualified local guides Extensive background notes Russian visa costs and processing

Not included

International airfares, taxes and surcharges (see below) Travel insurance Meals not mentioned in itinerary Expenses of a personal nature

Air travel OPTIONS The tour price quoted is for land content only. The tour begins at our hotel in Moscow and ends at our hotel in St Petersburg. Emirates and Qatar Airways offer suitable connections into Moscow and out of St Petersburg from most Australian cities. Please contact us for further information on competitive Economy, Business and First-Class airfares. Transfers between airport and hotel are included for all passengers booking their flights through Academy Travel. These may be group or individual transfers.

Enquiries & bookings For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Jamal Fairbrother at Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email jamal@academytravel.com.au

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