sample: explorer's guide vermont, 13th ed

7/30/2019 SAMPLE: Explorer's Guide Vermont, 13th Ed.

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3Central Vermont

THE WHITE RIVER VALLEYS

Including the towns of Sharon, Royal ton,Bethel , Rochester, Hancock, Braintree,Brookfield, Chelsea, Tunbridge,

and Straf ford

SUGARBUSH/MAD RIVER VALLEY

BARRE/MONTPELIER AREA

KILLINGTON/RUTLAND AREA

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T H E W H I T E R I V E R VA L L E Y SI N C L U D I N G T H E T O W N S O F S H A R O N ,R O Y A L T O N , B E T H E L , R O C H E S T E R , H A N C O C K ,B R A I N T R E E , B R O O K F I E L D , C H E L S E A ,T U N B R I D G E , A N D S T R A F F O R D

anishing Vermont could be the subtitle for this chapter. As I-89 sweepsup through central Vermont in a grand 52-mile arcfrom White River Junction toMontpelierit yields a series of panoramas. Motorists see the high wall of theGreen Mountains beyond the Braintree Range on the west and catch glimpses ofan occasional valley village. What they dont see is one of Vermonts best-kept

secrets: the classic old villages, abrupt valleys, and hill farms along the White Riverand its three branches.The White River rises high in the Green Mountains in Granville Gulf and

rushes down through Hancock, widening and slowing among farms in Rochester,keeping company with Rt. 100 until Stockbridge, where its course dictates a dog-leg in the highway. Turning sharply east and carving a narrow valley for Rt. 107(the last stretch of state road in Vermont to be completely reopened in 2012, fivemonths after Hurricane Irene turned this stretch of river into a raging torrent). AtBethel the river begins to parallel Rt. 14 and I-89. As it courses through the Royal-

tons and Sharon, its joined by the three northern branches; both tubing and fish-ing possibilities increase.Each of these streams, rising some 20 miles north of the main stem of the river,

has carved its own valley. The First Branch, shadowed by Rt. 110, threads six cov-ered bridges, lush farmland, and the unself-consciously beautiful villages ofChelsea and Tunbridge. The Second Branch begins above picturesque Pond Vil-lage in Brookfield, known for its floating bridge, and flows south along Rt. 14. TheThird Branch rises in Roxbury, conveniently near a fish hatchery, and flows souththrough a lonely valley (along Rt. 12A) to Randolph, one of the areas few I-89

exits and an Amtrak stop as well as the only commercial center of any size in thisentire area.Beautiful as these valleys are, the high eastwest roads that connect them,

climbing up over the hills and down into the next valley, are more rewarding still.To begin exploring this backroaded and unresortified heart of Vermont, you mightexit in Sharon and climb through the Straffords to Tunbridge and north to

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FISHING FROM THE FLOATING BRIDGE IN POND VILLAGE, BROOKFIELD

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Chelsea, west to Brookfield, then south to Randolph, on down Rt. 12, and westover Rochester Mountain. See Scenic Drives for tours that can pleasantly fill manydays.

In the absence of any major resort hub, a variety of widely scattered farms offerlodging and many good reasons to explore this rural region, genuinely as well asgeographically the heart of Vermont.

G U I D A N C E Randolph Area Chamber of Commerce (802-728-9027; 877-772-6365; randolph-chamber.com), 31 Rt. 66, Randolph 05060. Phone answered andoffice open year-round, weekdays 91; information center maintained MemorialDaymid-Oct. at State Plaza just off I-89, Exit 4 (next to the Mobil station).

; Sharon Northbound Information Center and Vermont Vietnam Veter-ans Memorial (802-281-5216), I-89, Sharon. Open 7 AM11 PM. Not what youexpect to find at a roadside rest area. The 7,000 names on the memorial itself rep-

resent all the Vermonters who served in the Vietnam War, which is recalledthrough exhibits that include a time line and film clips. Also unexpected here: aliving greenhouse filled with plants and descriptions of how they recycle waste.The center is staffed, a good source of local information. The restrooms, inciden-tally, are outstanding.

Green Mountain National Forest Ranger District Office and Visitor Cen-ter(802-767-4261), Rt. 100 in Rochester. Open 84 daily (except Sun.) MemorialDayColumbus Day, weekdays off-season. A magnificent center (restrooms) withdetailed information on hiking, biking, picnicking, bird-watching, camping, and

other recreation in this part of the GMNF.Herald of Randolph (802-728-3232; ourherald.com). The Randolph weekly, pub-lished on Thursday, carries local news and events for Orange and northern Wind-sor counties.

G E T T I N G T H E R E By train:Amtraks Vermonter(800-USA-RAIL; amtrak.com). Randolph and White River Junction (see Upper Valley River Towns)


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THEWHITERIVERVALLEYS

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are stops for trains from Washington, DC, and New York City via Springfield,Massachusetts.

By car: This area covers a wide, hilly swath of Vermont. I-89 runs diagonally acrossit, but with only three exits (Sharon, Bethel/Royalton, and Randolph).

G E T T I N G A R O U N D By taxi:J. T.s Taxi (802-728-4891); Stagecoach (802-728-3773).

W H E N T O G O Rochester offers winter cross-country skiing, and Tunbridgedraws Vermonters for the Worlds Fair in September and many more events.March brings sugaring; in May theres kayaking and in summer, tubing along thelower reaches of the White River. In July there are old-fashioned IndependenceDay parades, the biggest one in Randolph. Labor Day weekend, that same town isthe site of the New World Festival, with performances by more than 100 old-timenorthern New England and Canadian musicians. Given its scattering of appealing

places to stay, its farms, and its back-road scenery, this is a rewarding getaway areaanytime except mud season (April and early May).

M E D I C A L E M E R G E N C Y Call 911. Gifford Medical Center(802-728-7000),44 S. Main St., Randolph.

3VillagesSharon Village. An old commercial center at the junction of the river road (Rt.

14) and the high road (to Strafford), this remains a cluster of services just off I-89.The columned Sharon Trading Post is a classic general store with a serious meatdepartment, also selling local maple products. The Sharon Historical Society,also at this crossroads is open summer Sundays 13.

South Royalton Village. On a bend in the river and off Rt. 14, this classic rail-road village frames an outsized green with two bandstands and a Civil War cannon.A granite arch recalls the 1780 raid on Royalton by more than 300 Native Ameri-cans commanded by an English lieutenant. The railroad hotel, an 1887 brickQueen Annestyle commercial block, the train depot, and many of the clapboard

buildings within eyeshot have all received a new lease on life thanks to the pres-ence ofVermont Law School. Founded in 1972 and headquartered in a tower-topped old school building, this draws students from around the country. In the

village of Royalton, north on Rt. 14, most buildings predate the Civil War.

Tunbridge. Some 20,000 people jam into this village of 400 over four days eachSeptember. They come for the Tunbridge Worlds Fair, first held in 1867. Sited ina grassy, natural bowl by a bend in the river, it has everything an agricultural fairshould have: a midway, livestock displays and contests, a Floral Hall, collections ofold-time relics, dancing, sulky racing, a fiddling contest, horse pulls, a grandstand,

and more. Known as the Drunkards Reunion during a prolonged era when it wasclaimed that anyone found sober after 3 PMwas expelled as a nuisance, its now afamily event. Biannually in June the fairgrounds are also the site of the wonder-fully colorful annual Vermont History Expo, showcasing Vermont historical soci-eties from around the state with displays, reenactments, music, and much more.Tunbridge boasts four covered bridges (see our map), a fishing hole, and a photo-genic brick Methodist church (in South Tunbridge).

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Strafford. If it were any nearer a high-way, this quietly spectacular villagewould be mobbed with tourists. Hap-pily, its 9 miles north of I-89, and noton the way to anywhere except Tun-bridge. Coming from Tunbridge, the

road climbs steeply through woods andfields, finally cresting and beginning itsdownhill run through beautifullyrestored farms with ponds out back(pools would be too garish), stables,and other signs of wealth not evidenton the western side of the mountain.Aristocratic homeswhich includethe Gothic Revival Justin Morrill

Homesteadcluster near the common,at the head of which stands the church-

like white-clapboard Town House, built in 1799, so classic its a staple of New Eng-land photo books.

Chelsea. A village with not just one but two picturesque commons and twinbrick 1818 general stores. Noteworthy buildings also include a steepled church,the Orange County Courthouse, a brick library, a bank (since 1822), and manyFederal-era homes. An amazing number of servicespost office, restaurants,barber, and fish and wildlife officeare compressed into a small space.

Brookfield. Pond Village, as its known, easily ranks among the most pictur-esque four-corners in all New England. It boasts the states oldest continuouslyoperating library (established in 1791) and Sunset Lake, traversed by a floatingbridge, buoyed by barrels (the lake is too deep to support a pillared span), cur-rently closed to traffic. Soon as its warm enough, someone is always fishing here.On the last Saturday in January its a coveted viewing point for one of New Eng-lands last ice-harvest festivals. At thecenter of the villageAriels Restau-rant draws diners from 50 milesaround. Chef Lee Duberman offersseasonal Farm Suppers that aresourced totally from within a 10-mileradius, a clue to the variety of localfarms, many of which welcome visitors,some with lodging (floatingbridgefoodandfarms.com). Both GreenTrails Inn and Brookfield Bed &Breakfast offer lodging in the village.

Allis State Park, a few miles west,offers camping, picnicking, and asweeping view. The Marvin NewtonHouse, Ridge Rd., is an eight-roomhome built in 1835, now housing localhistorical exhibits (open Sun. in Julyand Aug.).


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Bethel (population: 1,968). At theconfluence of the White River and itsThird Branch as well as of Rts. 107(eastwest) and 12 (northsouth), withaccess to I-89. This was once a majorsource of white granite used to face

such buildings as Washington, DCsUnion Station. An eight-sided formerschool, now a community center,stands on Rt. 12 in West Bethel. Alsosee Where to Eat.

Randolph (population: 4,800). Ran-dolph Center(east on Rt. 66 from I-89, Exit 4) is clearly the oldest of thefive Randolphs. Its a lineup of brick

and clapboard Federal-era mansionsalong a main street that was cut unusu-ally wide with the idea that this mightbe the state capital. Instead its now a quiet village in which life centers on FloydsGeneral Store and the nearby complex ofVermont Technical College, grownfrom the grammar school built here in 1806. According to a historical marker,musician and schoolmaster Justin Morgan brought a young stallion from Massa-chusetts to his home here in 1789 (Justin Morgan the man lies buried in thenearby cemetery; the grave of Justin Morgan the horse is marked by a simple stone

off Rt. 110 in Chelsea). Randolph remains a horsey community, but with thearrival of the railroad in the mid-19th century, population shifted from the centerdown to the valley, 3 miles west (now the other side of I-89). Its here that Amtraknow stops, at the station steps from the Chandler Center for the Arts, a livelytown-owned performance center. The Randolph Historical Society Museum,upstairs in the police station, exhibits memorabilia, with the emphasis on railroad-ing; three rooms are furnished in circa-1900 style. (Open third Sun. in MayOct.,

24; also July 4.) On Main Street checkout Belmains, a well-stocked repre-

sentative of that vanishing breed: thefive-and-dime. Randolphs Independ-ence Day parade is one of the biggestaround.

Rochester(population: 1,200) strad-dles Rt. 100 in a quiet valley betweenthe Green Mountains and the Brain-tree Range. The village centerpiece is4-acre Rochester Park, a classic green

with a bandstand, the scene of Sundayconcerts. Just north of the park, a walk-able lineup of mismatched buildings isfull of surprises. Theres a locallyowned supermarket (Macs), a heavy-duty hardware store/laundry, a serious

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BANDSTAND IN DOWNTOWN RANDOLPHChristina Tree

DOWNTOWN ROCHESTERChristina Tree


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bike shop, two major galleries, a bookstore, plus your choice of cafs and diningoptions. Lodging ranges from an upscale inn and luxurious hideaways to a family-geared working dairy, Liberty Hill Farm (see the sidebar). The approach overRochester Mountain provides panoramic views and a delightful alternation of fieldand forest. North of the village on Rt. 100 the Green Mountain National Forest

Visitor Centerorients sportsmen, picnickers, and hikers to the largely uninhab-

ited western portion of the town that lies within the GMNF. The Bingo area, inparticular, offers swimming holes, abandoned town roads, cellar holes, and Civil

Warera cemeteries. Rochester also has a nine-hole golf course and serves as acenter for mountain biking and for backcountry cross-country skiing. TheRochester Historical Society(rochesterhistorical.org) is upstairs in the library,open seasonally on Sat. 102. Summer brings a variety of music, inside and out,but everything about Rochester is very low-key. In summer the Rochester Cham-ber Music Society(rcmmsvt.org) sponsors a series of chamber music concerts atthe Federated Church as well as the Green Mountain Suzuki Institute.

3 To SeeJustin Morrill Homestead (802-828-3051; morrillhomestead.org), Rt. 132, Straf-ford Village. Open Memorial DayColumbus Day, Sat.Sun. 115; tours $5. JustinMorrill never went to college but is remembered as the congressman who spon-sored the Land Grant Colleges Acts (one in 1862 and another in 1890) that cre-ated more than 76 present institutions, currently enrolling some 2.9 millionstudents. Many have evolved into state universities. The son of a Strafford black-smith, Morrill made enough money as a country storekeeper (which he parlayedinto a chain of stores) to retire at age 38 and enter politics on an antislavery andtemperance platform. He served in Congress for 44 years (185598), never findingmuch time to spend in his striking, 17-room Gothic Revival mansion because hekept getting reelected. A man who was instrumental in the design and constructionof the Washington Monument and the Library of Congress, Justin Morrill helpeddesign his own house and (now restored) gardens and orchard. The icehouse andcarriage barn are fitted with interpretive panels about Morrill and the manynational events in which he played arole. Inside and out, this is a fascinat-ing house, well maintained by the Ver-mont Division for HistoricPreservation and Friends of the Mor-rill Homestead. Inquire about fre-quent events including a 19th-centuryapple festival, along with programssuch as painting, landscape gardening,

village walks, and more.

Floating Bridge at Sunset Lake,Pond Village. First built in 1820, thebridge is buoyed up on barrels. Itsbeen replaced six times since and ispresently closed except for foot traffic.Its quite picturesque, a popular placeto fish. See Brookfield under Villages.


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Joseph Smith Memorial and Birth-place (802-763-7742) 357 LDS Lane(off Dairy Hill Rd.), South Royalton.Open year-round: MayOct. 97 daily,1:307 Sun.; otherwise closing at 5. Amarker on Rt. 14 (1 mile southeast of

the village) points you up a steep, 2-mile hill to a complex maintained bythe Church of Jesus Christ of the Lat-ter-day Saints. The property itselfbegins with a steep hill of maples lead-ing to a hilltop visitors center withpaintings, sculpture, exhibits, and afilm housed in two buildings. A 38.5-foot-high shaft, cut from Barre granite

in 1908, marks the site of the farm onwhich the founder of the Church ofJesus Christ of Latter-day Saints was born in 1805 and lived until he was 10. Eachfoot on the shaft marks a year in the life of the prophet, who was murdered by amob in Carthage, Illinois, in 1844. The 360 well-maintained acres include picnictables.

Porter Music Box Museum & Gift Shop (800-811-7087; portermusicbox.com),33 Sunset Rd. (Rt. 66 between I-89 and downtown Randolph). MayDec. (call forhours). Small admission. A collection of music boxes is displayed, and both boxes

and recordings are sold.Texas Falls, Hancock. On Rt. 125

west of Rt. 100 in Hancock; a GreenMountain National Forest sign pointsto the road to the falls. Its a quartermile. The falls are an exceptional seriesof shoots and pools, rimmed by inter-esting rock formations. A short, steep(be careful) trail still leads down to thefalls. A quarter mile farther up theroad is a pleasant riverside picnic area

with grills and outhouses.

S C E N I C D R I V E S The QuickieTour: Sharon to South Royalton viaStrafford and Tunbridge (22 miles).Take I-89 to Exit 2, Sharon, and climbRt. 132 to Strafford, site of theJustin

Morrill Homestead and the TownHouse. Continue up and over the hillsand down into Tunbridge. If time per-mits, turn north on Rt. 110 for 5 milesand past three covered bridges (seethe sidebar) to Chelsea. Otherwise

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TEXAS FALLSChristina Tree

THE JOSEPH SMITH MEMORIAL AND

BIRTHPLACE, SOUTH ROYALTON

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turn south on Rt. 110 for the 5 scenic miles back (past one covered bridge) to Rt.14 at South Royalton and pick up I-89 again at Exit 3 in Royalton, or turn backdown Rt. 14 to Sharon. En route you pass the turnoff for theJoseph SmithMemorial.

Randolph Center, Brookfield, Chelsea (27 miles). Take I-89 to Exit 4 and turneast into Randolph Center, then north along a glorious ridge road (marked TOBROOKFIELD) to Pond Village with its floating bridge across Sunset Lake (see Vil-lages). Addicted as we are to shortcuts, we still recommend passing up the gravelroad from East Brookfield to Chelsea; go around through East Randolph (6 milessouth on Rt. 14, then turn onto the road marked for Chelsea; its 6 more miles).Return on Rt. 110 and Rt. 14 to I-89, passing six covered bridges.

C O V E R E D B R I D G E S There are five covered bridges in Tunbridge: the CilleyBridge, south of the junction of Rt. 110 with Strafford Rd. and built in 1883; theHowe Bridge (1879), east off Rt. 110 in South Tunbridge; and in North Tun-

bridge, the 1845 Flint Bridge and 1902 Larkin Bridge, both east of Rt. 110. TheMill Bridge (1883), crushed by ice in the winter of 1999, has been rebuilt. InRandolph two multiple kingpost bridges, both built in 1904, are just off Rt. 14between East Randolph and South Randolph. In Chelsea there is the MoxleyorGuy Bridge, an 1886 queenpost, east off Rt. 110.

3 To DoB I K I N G In Randolph the Three Stallion Inn offers bike rentals, a 35-km net-

work of mountain biking trails, and maps to other local possibilities.Green Mountain Bikes (802-767-4464; greenmountainbikes.com), Rt. 100 inRochester Village. Doon Hinderyckx is a font of information about local trails inand beyond the national forest. He offers guided tours and rents and sells moun-tain and cross bikes.

Also check with the Green Mountain National Forest Visitor Center(Guid-ance), and see Scenic Drives.

B O A T I N G A N D T U B I N G While most of the White River is navigable in high

water (MayAug.), the 20-mile stretch from Rochester to Stockbridge and Bethelis especially popular with canoeists, tubers, and kayakers. A good place to put in isat the cement bridge just south of Rochester. Tubing on the White River is so pop-ular that you can rent tubes at a number of places, including the Sharon TradingPost (802-763-7404) andVermont River Tubing (vermontrivertubing.net),

which offers organized tubing trips and shuttle service, Rt. 100, just below thejunction with Rt. 107. Phone 802-746-8106 for river conditions.

F I S H I N G Trout abound at the junction of the Tweed and White rivers, down-

stream of Bethel, above Randolph, and below Royalton. Fly-fishing enthusiastsfind the Bethel area good for large rainbow and brown trout, while below Royaltonthere are bass, spring walleye, and trout. Fishing licenses are available at TracysMidway, a convenience store and gas station on N. Main St. in Sharon; at Hub-bards General Store in Hancock; and elsewhere.


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FARMS

The beauty of this region is best appreciated by following back roads to themany farms that welcome visitors. Call ahead for tours, workshops, lodging,and to check on pick-your-own offerings, farm stands, and stores. Within

this chapter a sampling of these farms are detailed under their respectiveheadings (Lodging, Selective Shopping, and so on). We also want to high-light the dozen or so farms, a restaurant, and two B&Bs that have joinedforces to ease the ways to their doors through an exceptional website,Floating Bridge Food & Farms Cooperative (floatingbridgefoodandfarms.com). The floating bridge is off the beaten path in Brookfields Pond Vil-lage, best known for Ariels Restaurant (see Dining Out). Two working farmsin this groupGreen Mountain Girls Farm and Twin Pond Retreatoffer

overnight lodging, while H. L. Sweet Retreat Guest House & Sugarworks andStowell & Son Christmas Trees have weekly rentals on the property. Farmproducts include achoice of artisanalcheeses, free-rangeeggs, veggies, andveal, along withcreamy yogurt(Turkey Hill Farm);caramel from goatsmilk (Fat Toad Farm);and both candlesand soap (Brook-field Bees). In PondVillage itself both

Green Trails Inn andFork Shop andBrookfield Bed &

Breakfast offer lodg-ing and directions.The co-op logo is

the work of localresidentand

nationally recog-nized New YorkercartoonistEdKoren.

FLOATING BRIDGE FOOD & FARMS COOPERATIVEINVITES VISITORS TO EAT, SLEEP, AND SHOP AT ITSMEMBER FARMS, RESTAURANT, AND B&BS

Ed Koren


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Bakers Pond on Rt. 12 in Brookfield has a parking area and boat launch, good fortrout fishing. There is a boat access on Rood Pond in Williamstown and a canoeaccess on Sunset Lake in Brookfield, also stocked with trout. The floating bridgeis a popular fishing spot.

White River National Fish Hatchery, Gaysville (Bethel), Rts. 12/107 west ofBethel Village, raises imprint salmon for the Connecticut River restoration program.

Roxbury State Fish Hatchery, Rt. 12A in Roxbury, raises brookies and Atlanticsalmon, over 350,000 fish per year. It abuts the Third Branch of the White River,and the fishing downstream can be amazing.

G O L F Montague Golf Club (802-728-3806), Randolph. One of the oldestcourses in Vermont, 18 holes. The Second Branch of the White River windsthrough it. Light fare is served in the clubhouse; lessons offered. Note: A drivingrange is maintained by the Three Stallion Inn just off I-89, Exit 4, on Rt. 66.

The White River Golf Club (802-767-GOLF), Rt. 100, Rochester. Nine holes,clubhouse with a restaurant serving lunch (dinner by arrangement). OpenMayOct. Affordable, great for families, a historic and beautiful course. Next to itis a driving range (802-767-3211).

H I K I N G The Green Mountain National Forest (see Guidance) harborsnumerous trails. On Rt. 100 itself in Granville Gulf there are two short naturetrails. At Moss Glen Falls, the 0.5-mile loop on the west side of the road is morerugged than the 1-mile loop on the east side.

Allis State Park, Brookfield (off Rt. 12; see Green Space). A 2.5-mile trail circlesdown through meadows and back up through woods. A trail leads from the picnicarea to a fire tower with one of the best views in central Vermont (on a clear day,from KillingtonPico to Mount Mansfield to Ascutney). The Bear Hill Nature Trailis another reason for finding this special place.

P I C N I C K I N G Brookfield Gulf, Rt. 12 west of Brookfield. Picnic facility, naturetrail.

Braintree Hill, Braintree Hill Rd. (off Rt. 12A just west of downtown Randolph).

A great picnic spot with an early cemetery and sweeping views to the WhiteMountains. The handsome Braintree Meeting House here is open by appointmentand on Old Home Day (first Sun. in Aug.).

Bingo Brook in Rochester off Rt. 73 in the national forest. Picnic sites with grillsby a mountain stream, good for fishing and swimming.

Rte. 100 picnic sites in Rochester beckon down by the White River; check at theGMNF visitors center.

Texas Falls (see To See), off Rt. 125, Hancock, offers picnic sites.

S W I M M I N G Ask locally about various swimming holes in the First, Second, andThird branches and the main stem of the White River. In Randolph Center thereis a human-made beach, bathhouse, and picnic area. Downtown Randolph alsooffers a pool at its recreational field off School St.


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3Winter SportsC R O S S - C O U N T R Y S K I I N G A N D S N O W S H O E I N G Three Stallion Inn SkiTouring Center(802-728-5656; threestallioninn.com), Stock Farm Rd., off Rt. 66,Randolph. Twenty km of groomed trails weave through woods and meadows; thereare also trails and equipment for snowshoeing. Rentals and instruction are available.

% Nordic Adventures (802-767-3272; vt-nordicadventures.com), Rt. 100,Rochester Village. Dean Mendell offers a full line of cross-country equipment andsnowshoes, lessons, rentals, and guided tours into the heart of the Green MountainNational Forest and from inn to inn. His slogan is Ski everywhere.

Green Mountain National Forest (see Guidance) maintains trails in Rochesteron Liberty Hill and at Chittenden Brook.

Strafford Nordic Center(802-765-4309; straffordordicskiing.com). Closed Mon.except holidays. The initial 25 km of a 50-km system opened in the snow-scarce

winter of 201112 and won a following.

3 Green SpaceAllis State Park (802-276-3175), Brookfield. Open May 30Sept. 15. A campingarea with 18 tent sites, 8 with lean-tos (no hookups), each on a wooded loop roadseparate from the picnic area, in which you can choose tables on a windy hilltop orunder a pavilion. A hiking trail (see To Do) accesses a fire tower with an outstand-ing view.

Green Mountain National Forest (GMNF). Among the highlights of the Rochester

district of the GMNF are the Long Trail and the Texas Falls Recreation Area.Because of the abundance of other things to do in this area, be sure to drop inthe GMNF visitors center 2 miles north of the Rochester green on Rt. 100 (802-767-4261).

3 LodgingI N N S Huntington House Inn (802-767-91400; huntingtonhouseinn.com),19 Huntington Place, Rochester

05767. Sited on Rochesters large, leafyCentral Park, this handsome home hasbeen an inn for many years. From1819 until 1964, however, it served as acombination home and office for fourgenerations of Huntingtons, all ofthem doctorshence the pub knownas Docs Tavern. Six guest rooms arecomfortably, unfussily furnished with

crafted beds, quilts, and simple win-dow treatments; theyre equipped withprivate bath, air-conditioning, phones,and TV. $125175 includes a full coun-try breakfast. Next door a former gen-eral store has been transformed intothree luxurious two-bedroom condo

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units accessed by elevator, each with afull kitchen, two baths, and a livingroom furnished with Oriental rugs and

antiques, gas fireplace, and large-screen TV ($375 per night, two-nightminimum). See Dining Out.

Harrington House Inn and Restau-rant (802-392-8034), 88 North Rd.(Rt. 107), Bethel 05032. This longtimeinn, an 1890s Queen Anne Victorian onthe western edge of Bethel, has a newname and new life. The name is that ofits original owners, whose descendantRick Harrington has purchased the innand is currently restoring it with part-ner Fred Leary. The restaurant andtavern, opened in 2011, have an enthu-siastic following. Seven tasteful upstairsrooms, five with private bath, are due


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for completion in Sept. 2012.$145175 with private bath, $6575,shared. Also see Dining Out.

c Three Stallion Inn (802-728-5575;800-424-5575; threestallioninn.com),Lower Stock Farm Rd., off Rt. 66, Ran-dolph 05060. At this writing the inn

with its dining room, extensive trails(used for winter skiing and summer bik-ing), and sporting facilitiesis up forsale. While the inn is open, guestreviews are mixed. From 1927 to 1962this was the 1,300-acre Green Moun-tain Stock Farm, one of Vermontsmajor centers for Morgan horses. Since

1971 it has been owned by real estatedeveloper Sam Sammis. The propertyadjoins the 18-hole Montague GolfClub, and the inn maintains a drivingrange. Theres also swimming and fish-ing in the Third Branch of the WhiteRiver, which runs through the property;a trout pond invites catch-and-release.Facilities include a fitness room, a

whirlpool and sauna, two tennis courts,and an outdoor lap pool. Rooms aredivided between the main house andthe Morgan House across the road.From $215 in the main house.

B E D & B R E A K F A S T S v c GreenTrails Inn and Fork Shop (802-276-3412; greentrailsinn.com), P.O. Box

494, Brookfield 05036. Open JuneDec. full service; Jan.May for longerstays. This handsome house at theheart of Pond Village has welcomed

visitors since Jessie Fiske, a Brookfieldnative who became one of the first

women professors at Rutgers Univer-sity, began renting rooms to her stu-dents and associates. Jane Doerfer, the

present innkeeper, is an accomplishedcook and cookbook author. She offerseight attractive rooms; three work wellas a family suite with its own entrance.Beds have high-quality mattresses andlinens, and the guest rooms all have

well-chosen antiques and books. A

buffet-style breakfast usually includesfresh fruit, smoked salmon, localcheeses, and a hot dish such as sausageapple cobbler. Its served either in thedining room or in the big, sunnykitchen area with a stone hearth, both

with views of Sunset Lake across theroad. Guests have access to a small,grassy beach. $84140, $25 per extraperson. Inquire about cooking classes,solo rates, and whole-house rental (itsleeps 18) as well as The Fork Shop,built as a 19th-century pitchfork fac-tory at the edge of the lake, with a

waterfall churning musically down

along one side. It offers five bedroomsand features a spending commonroom, walled in windows, also a privatepatio on the lake. Ariels Restaurant(see Dining Out) is across the street.

Brookfield Bed & Breakfast (802-276-3146; brookfieldbandb.com), 2152Rt. 65, Brookfield 05036. A handsome19th-century house set back on the

edge of Pond Village with views ofSunset Lake. Carrie and GeorgeKarals comfortable, imaginatively fur-nished one-bedroom apartment withkitchen facilities is a gem ($150); alsotwo more nicely designed rooms in arecent addition. Books and art areeverywhere, and a full breakfast isserved in the gracious dining room.

Both the porch and gardens invite youto relax ($100125).


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Pumpkin Patch B&B (802-767-4742;

pumpkinpatchbnb.com), 6 S. Main St.,Rochester 05767. Debbie and RichMatheisens handsome 1835 Federal-style home in the middle of Rochester

Village offers three guest rooms withprivate bath, one with a wood-burning

fireplace. $110150 includes a full

breakfast.

F A R M S V Twin Pond Retreat(802-276-3839), 2007 Twin Pond Road,Brookfield 05036. Jennifer Stecklers14-acre farm includes a private pond, a

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v c Liberty Hill Farm (802-767-3926; libertyhillfarm.com), 511 Liberty Hill,Rochester 05767. Pictured on the cover of this guide, Liberty Hill is the old-est surviving and most authentic farmstay. Its the real thing: a working, 150-head dairy farm set in a broad meadow, backed by mountains. Its 1890s red

barn with cupola, one of the most photographed and painted in Vermont,was built by Dr. Charles Wesley Emerson, founder of Bostons Emerson Col-lege. Theres a capacious white-clapboard 1825 farmhouse and, best of all,

there is farmwife-host par excellence Beth Kennett. Beths own familysfarming history dates back to the 17th century in Maine, and farmer BobKennetts roots run deep into New Hampshire soil. Both families were horri-fied when Beth and Bob moved west in 1979 to this 230-acre spread in amagnificent Vermont valley. Since 1984 theyve been welcoming guests. Vis-

itors of all ages are treated to a sense of how much fun (and work if they sodesire) living on a farm can be. Kids quickly get to know the cows (black-and-white registered Robeth Holsteinsfor Robert and Beth), each with aname tag in her ear. They can help milk, bottle-feed the calves, and collecteggs. Its also a rare chance to meet an authentic Vermont farm family. SonsTom (with an agriculture business degree) and David (with a degree fromUVM in animal science) are now totally involved in the farm, whichamong

its numerous distinctionswas recognized as Vermonts first Green Agri-tourism Enterprise. In the barn a transfer unit takes heat from the cows milkand warms water used to feed the baby calves their milk as well as washing

the milking equipment.Meals are served family-style, and Beth makes everything from scratch.

Dinner is at 6 (BYOB) and as delicious as it is prodigious: maybe incrediblymoist sliced turkey, a zucchini casserole, cucumber salad, a garden saladwith tomatoes, pumpkin muffins, mashed potatoes or a carrot souffl, fresh-

picked sweet corn, a choice of homemade dressings and stuffingsall setin the middle of a table seating eight adults and at least as many children.The kids disappear after the main course, and adults linger over blueberrypie with homemade (from the farms own milk) raspberry ice cream. Usuallyguests number a dozen or so but our last (July) visit coincided with the


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rental cabin (available year-round) with

an attached wood-fired sauna and out-door pavilion, a wood-fired hot tub, anoutdoor kitchen, and a large commu-nity. Theres camping for groups as

well as intensely cultivated gardensyielding organic vegetables and dye

plants. Private retreats, massage,

acupuncture and workshops in fiberarts are offered. $150 per night for thecabin, $225 with two meals.

Green Mountain Girls Farm (802-505-1767), 923 Loop Rd., Northfield05663 (just off I-89, Exit 5). Mari


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Rochester-based Green Mountain Suzuki Institute with parents and childrenaround the long dinner table numbering upward of 30. Beths warmth as well asher table expanded to embrace every kid as well as grown-up, making us all feelsmart enough to be there.

Theres plenty of common space, including two sitting rooms and twopianos, but in summer adults seem to congregate on the porch. There are sevenguest rooms (five with queen beds, one with two single beds, and a room withfive single beds) and four shared baths; families can spread into two roomssharing a sitting room and bath. In summer you can hear the gurgle of the WhiteRiver (good for trout fishing as well as swimming and tubing), and in winter youcan ski or snowshoe up into the adjacent Green Mountain National Forest or offinto the village across the meadows. This is also a handy location for exploring

the Champlain Valley to the west via the Middlebury Gap, as well as much ofcentral Vermont to the east via Rochester Gap or Rt. 100 heading north andsouth. $110 per adult, $54 per child under 12, MAP.

THE HOUSE AT LIBERTY HILL FARM


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Omland and Laura Olsen are theenterprising hands-on owners of this20-acre hill farm. Aside from raisingpigs, goats, lambs, chickens, andturkeys for organic meat and a wide

variety of vegetables and herbs for

their farm store, they offer a spaciousbedroom with a loft upstairs in theback of their rehabbed 19th-centurybarn, which also includes a largeground-floor eating and meeting space

with a kitchen and bath (compostingtoilet). $240 for the first night, $200after for up to six people. Groundsinclude a pond with a swim channel.

Sweet Retreat Guesthouse & Sug-arworks (802-272-8014), 329 FrostRd., Northfield 03663. Hannah andRay Morvan enjoy sharing their 420acres with 7 miles of trails, good forcross-country skiing and snowshoeing,through woods, meadows, and views.They are known for the quality of theirmaple syrup and for their Brown Swiss

show oxen (some more than 3,000pounds), available for cart and sleighrides by reservation. Their attractive

guest apartment has a full kitchen andcan sleep five ($200 per night).

Elsewherev c Devils Den Farm HomestayBed & Breakfast (802-685-458), 296Rt. 110, Chelsea 05038. Rhoda andBill Ackerman offer a warm welcometo their rambling farmhouse, built byRhodas grandparents. Both sides ofthe family are rooted six generationsdeep in Chelsea. Theres plenty of sit-ting space inside and out (on theflower- and rocker-lined porch).Upstairs are two double-bedded roomsand a suite, all furnished with familyantiques, quilts, and handwoven ragrugs on polished hardwood floors.Note the many woodcarvings byRhodas mother, Clara Gilman. Youllalso enjoy 65 acres of fields, pastures,and woods, access to the First Branchof the White River, and a trail to theDevils Den cave in the ledge behindthe farm. Downtown Chelsea is a mile

back beyond the bend. $90 includesbreakfast; inquire about discounts.Maple syrup sold year-round.

v c Marges B&B at Round RobinFarm (802-763-7025), RR 1, Box 52,

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GREEN MOUNTAIN GIRLS FARM SELLS AVARIETY OF THEIR OWN MEATS ANDORGANIC VEGGIES.

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PRIZE BROWN SWISS OXEN AT SWEETRETREAT FARM OFFER WAGON AND SLEIGHRIDES.


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Fay Brook Rd., Strafford 05072. This isa 395-acre farm with one of Vermontsfamous 10-sided round barns (built in1917). Its been in the family for sevengenerations. Whats offered is thehomey, clean, and cheerful farmhouse

with its Mission-style dining room andsitting room with a TV/VCR, or roomstherein (two rooms with double bedand two with twins, sharing one bath),plus a fridge with the fixings for mak-ing your own breakfast in the big coun-try kitchen. Marge Robinson lives

within call in the adjacent house.Cross-country ski. No smoking and no

pets, please. A double room is $45 perperson per night. Inquire about theprice for the whole house. Snowmobiletrails run right through the property.

Grand View Farm (802-685-4693;grandviewfarm.net), 1628 Scales HillRd., Washington. This is a hilltop fiberfarm. Kim Goodling and her husband,Chuck, raise sheep, llamas, and angora

goats, as well as rabbits, hens, and pigs.The B&B part of the farmhouse isdivided from the family house by thekitchen. Dating from the 1700s, it con-sists of a sitting room and two bed-rooms, one with twins and the other

with a four-poster queen. Breakfastcan be full or continental. $210 pernight for both rooms, $110 for one.

Inquire about fiber workshops.Four Springs Farm, Campgroundand Learning Center(802-763-7296;fourspringsfarm.com), 776 Gee Rd.,Royalton 05068. Jinny Cleland raisesorganic vegetables, chickens, and flow-ers on her 70-acre farm and invites vis-itors to tag along on chores. Programsare also offered to the families and

groups who stay here, either takingadvantage of eight secluded campsites($25) or the four-bunk cabin withmountain views ($75). Theres a central

washhouse and a picnic pavilion.

S E C O N D H O M E S c Hawk North,Vermonts Mountain Hideaway (800-832-8007; vthideaway.com). Two- tofour-bedroom contemporary hilltopchalets with superb mountain and val-ley views in the Stockbridge/Rochester

area, privately owned but splendidlybuilt by the same developer, all withsignature fieldstone fireplace, livingroom deck, and fully equipped kitchen.Rates vary with the season: $200375per night, third night free. Weekly,monthly rentals.

C A M P G R O U N D S Lake Cham-

pagne Campground (802-728-5298),P.O. Box C, Randolph 05061. OpenMemorial Day weekendmid-Oct. A150-acre property with fields, a 3-acreswim lake, hot showers, mountain

views, and facilities for tents throughfull-sized RVs.

Limehurst Lake Campground (802-433-6662; limehurstlake.com), 4101

Rt. 14, Williamstown 05679. This fam-ily-geared campground offers 76 sites

with full hookups for RVs, a separatearea for lean-tos and tents, modernrestrooms, hot showers, a waterslide, asandy swim beach, boat rentals andfishing (no license required), and agame room.

Chittenden Brook Campground inthe Green Mountain National For-est (802-767-4261), 5.3 miles west ofRochester on Rt. 73. The 17 campsitesare fitted with picnic tables and grills;there are hand-operated water pumpsand vault toilets. The surrounding for-est provides good fishing, hiking, andbirding. No trailers over 18 feet. Nohookups or showers.

Note: Primitive camping is permittedalmost everywhere in the GreenMountain National Forest.

Allis State Park (802-276-3175;vtstateparks.com). Open mid-May


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326 Labor Day. Named for Wallace Allis,who deeded his Bear Mountain Farmto the state as a campground andrecreational area. Sited on the summitof Bear Mountain, it includes a picnicarea and trail to the fire tower, as well

as 18 tent and 8 lean-to sites, each witha picnic table and fireplace. Hot show-ers but no hookups. Handy to SunsetLake and several other good fishingponds.

3Where to EatD I N I N G O U T % cAriels Restau-

rant (802-276-3939; arielsrestaurant.com), 29 Stone Rd., Brookfield. OpenMayOct. Wed.Sun. 5:309:30. Dec.Mar., Thurs.Sat., 5:309:30. ClosedNov. Reserve. Overlooking SunsetLake in the middle of Pond Village,this destination dining room is knownas one of the best places to eat in Ver-mont. Lee Duberman and RichardFink are longtime chef-owners whospecialize in Mediterranean andPacific Rim dishes, using local ingredi-ents whenever possible and offering achoice of small, medium, and largeplates. On a summers day you mightbegin with a crabcake in kataify pastry,

then dine on grilled bonelessCavendish Farm quail with fig, honey,and balsamic vinaigrette, topped off

with a lemon napoleon with raspberrycoulis. On a winters night the fivechoices might include braised short

ribs and a seafood paella. Entres$2228. Children are welcome. Dontpass up dessert, maybe a seasonal fruitcrisp with buttermilk sorbet andcaramel sauce or honey lavendercrme brle with house-made cookies($8). Inquire about cooking classes andseasonal Farm Suppers that aresourced totally from within a 10-mile

radius, a clue to the variety of localfarms, many of which welcome visitors,some with lodging (floatingbridgefoodandfarms.com).

Huntington House Inn (802-767-9140; huntingtonhouseinn.com), 19Huntington Place, Rochester. Opennightly for dinner from 5. This attrac-tive dining room has white linens and

candles, windows overlooking thegreen, and a romantic feel. ChefDaniel Wallace uses local ingredientsas much as possible to create entressuch as vegetable Wellington, beef ten-derloin with baby fingerlings and bor-delaise sauce, and grilled and stuffedpork loin. Entres $14.9524.95. Inthe adjoining Docs Tavern you can

slide into a booth and sup on pizza($9.9518.95), paninis, pastas, andcomfort food like shepherds pie orblue-cheese-stuffed meat loaf, alsoavailable to go.

The Village Porch Bar and Bistro(802-767-3126), Main St. (Rt. 100),Rochester Village. Open Thurs.Sun.Geared to the local community, this is

a delightful restaurant with an openkitchen and seasonal porch seats, alsopleasant inside space. Appetizers mightinclude butternut squash bisque, orspinach and heirloom tomato tarts.Entres, priced generally from $9.95

LEE DUBERMAN, CHEF AND CO-OWNER OFARIELS IN BROOKFIELD

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for a Porch burger through $13.95 forhouse-smoked baby back rib, includeseveral $19.95 options, like lemonchicken schnitzel and smoked andgrilled flank steak over black bean andcorn salad.

Harrington House (802-392-8034),88 North Rd., Bethel. Open year-round from 4 for dinner except Tues.,lunch Thurs.Sat. 113, Sun. brunch102. Reservations recommended.Housed in an evolving 1890s inn, thisnew restaurant is chef owned and pop-ular. The same menu is served in thetavern and slightly more formal dining

room. Walls are dark, windows largeand uncurtained, tables unclothed,combining for an uncluttered, comfort-able feel. You might dine on herb-roasted, locally raised chicken withorzo, spinach, and cannellini beans;braised short rib; a burger; or localmushrooms with asparagus and peas ina citrus wine sauce. Entres

$821.Wine and a large selection ofbrews.

Black Krim (802-728-6776), 21 Mer-chants Row, Randolph. Open for din-ner Wed.Sun. A reasonably pricedmenu featuring Asian and vegetariandishes with a stress on fresh and local.Local brews on tap. Entres $1015.

Chadwicks Steakhouse and Pub(802-565-8223), 10 Prince St., Ran-dolph. Open for lunch and dinner,Sunday brunch. New in fall 2011, apub (with pool tables) and separatedining area, live music some weekends.

Patricks Place (802-728-4405), 2Merchants Row, Bethel. Open lunchand dinner. Under new ownership (it

was previously known primarily forbreakfast), this is fairly upscale. At din-ner you might begin with apple ched-dar strudel, then dine on blue marlinor a leek and parsnip cake. Entres;$12 (for a cheeseburger)20.

E A T I N G O U T Road food, listedgeographically from south to north,off I-89.

At I-89, Exit 2#5 Olde Tavern & Grill (802-763-

8600), 192 Chelsea St., South Royal-ton. Open daily 1111. The originaleatery by this name is at 5 OldeNugget Alley (hence the name) inHanover, New Hampshire; a sleek,student-geared coffeehouse/pub with amenu ranging from pizza, burgers, andquesadillas to reasonably priced dinnerentres such as veggie stir-fry and ribs.

Chelsea Station Restaurant (802-763-8685), 108 Chelsea St., South Roy-alton. A folksy place with a counterand booths. Most people know oneanother, but visitors feel welcome.Better-than-average diner food,freshly baked bread, good soups.

South Royalton Market (802-763-2400; soromarket.com), 222 Chelsea

St., South Royalton. Open daily. A co-op style store featuring local andorganic foods and Equal GroundsCaf.

Along Route 110 in Tunbridgeand ChelseaDixies II (802-685-7802), Main St.(Rt. 110), Chelsea Village. Open dailyfrom 6 AM, until 7:30 PM Thu.Sat.,

closing at 1:30 Mon.Wed. The samemenu all day with blackboard specials,BYOB at dinner. This is a 19th-centurybrick bank building with a nice atmos-phere, standard menu.

Maple Leaf Bakery and Caf (802-491-3239), North Common, Chelsea.Open Tues.Sat. 64.,Sun. 71. BakerMelanie Giles offers breakfast andlunch as well as baked goods, a greataddition to the village.

At I-89, Exit 3% Eatons Sugar House, Inc. (802-763-8809). Located at the junction of


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328 Rts. 14 and 107 in Royalton, just off I-89, Exit 3. Open daily 73. A good old-fashioned family restaurant featuringpancakes and local syrup, sandwiches,burgers, and reasonably priced dailyspecials. Try the turkey club made with

fresh-carved turkey on homemadebread. Vermont maple syrup, cheese,and other products are also sold.

In BethelCockadoodle Pizza Caf (802-234-9666; cockadoodlepizza.com), 269Main St. Open Mon.Thurs. 118,Fri.Sat. 119, Sun. noon8. A wel-come addition to this reawakeningdowntown: a wide choice of mouthwa-tering signature pizzas plus paninis andsandwiches on rustic rolls, eachnamed for a different Vermont town.No credit cards.

Breaking Grounds (802-392-4222), 245 Main St. Open Tues.Fri.7:302, Sat. 92. A friendly spot with a

limited but creative menu, like abreakfast bread bowl filled with scram-bled egg, spinach, and bacon. A largespace with comfy seating, historicalpictures, good coffee.

Along Route 107Toziers Restaurant (802-234-9400),

west of Bethel. Open MayOct., insummer 118, Thurs.Sun. in shoulder

seasons. A classic road-food stop withpine paneling and a river view. Seafood(mostly fried, some broiled) is a dinnerspecialty, along with turkey dinner.Take-out window for ice cream andbasics.

% c Creek House Diner(802-234-9191), junction of Rts. 107 and 12,Locust Creek. Open year-round, daily

7 AM8 PM. A clean, handy road-foodstop with booths, a salad bar, liver andonions, prime rib, friendly service,beer and wine. We dined happily on agrilled chicken salad. Great daily spe-cials. Childrens menu.

Also see Harrington House underDining Out; open for lunch except Tues.

At I-89, Exit 4, RandolphThree Bean Caf (802-728-3533), 22Pleasant St. Open 6:305. Closed Sun.

The in gathering place for many milesaround offers from-scratch croissantsand baked goods, then nourishingsoups and veggie sandwiches plus a

variety of coffees and teas, the dayspapers, and comfortable seating.

Randolph Depot (728-3333), 2Salisbury St. Open Mon.Sat. 74.Housed in the towns Victorian-style

brick train depot (an Amtrak stop), thisattractive restaurant features anunusual choice of salads as well aspanini sandwiches and wraps.

Morgans Pub at the Three StallionInn (800-424-5575), off Rt. 66 (just offI-89, Exit 4). Open except Sun.Mon.for dinner. The tavern menu that usu-ally includes burgers and a wide choice

of reasonably priced small plates aswell as the same menu as the innsmore formal restaurant.

Randolph Village Pizza (802-728-9677), 1 S. Main St. Open daily 119,until 10 in summer and on weekends

year-round. A wide variety of pizzasand calzones; also salads, grinders, andpasta.

Chefs Market (802-728-4202), 839Rt. 12 south. Open weekdays 96, Sat.95, Sun. 103. Featuring local andorganic produce, this is also a source ofgreat sandwiches from organic PB&Jon oatmeal bread ($3.99) to a GobblerGrill or Roast Beef & Bleu.

Along Route 100

Rochester Caf & Country Store(802-767-4302), Rt. 100, RochesterVillage. Breakfast 711:30, lunch until5. Good fries and burgers, pleasantatmosphere. Great soda fountain,booths, the town gathering place. Trythe maple cream pie.


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v Sandys Books and Bakery(802-767-4258), 30 N. Main St. (Rt. 100),Rochester. Open 7:306. Just north ofthe gas pumps. Good in the morningfor espresso, fresh-made whole-grainbreads and muffins, and at lunch for

soups, salads, and sandwiches, vegetar-ian choices, cookies all day, beer andwine. Light dinner served but onlyuntil 6.

Hubbards General Store (802-767-9030), 38 Rt. 125, at the junction withRt. 100 in Hancock. A community cen-ter since 1840, good for gas, staples,

wildlife licenses, and good deli sand-

wiches to take for a picnic to nearbyTexas Falls or one of the pullout areasdown by the White River.

3 EntertainmentChandler Center for the Arts (802-728-6464; chandler-arts.org), 7173Main St., Randolph. This community-based arts organization, housed in

Chandler Music Hall (built in 1907),includes a 575-seat theater with out-standing acoustics and handsome sten-ciling. Facilities were recentlyrenovated and expanded to mark thebuildings centennial. Its open year-

round for performances that includechamber music, traditional and her-itage music, folksingers, family per-formances, and the Vermont SymphonyOrchestra, as well as several self-produced events, including the annual

Mud Season Variety Show, Mini MudShow for youth, and annual July 4 youthmusical. In addition to main stageevents, the Live & Upstairs series inthe renovated Upper Gallery includes acurated film series and intimate per-formances. Chandler Galleryis a

venue for changing exhibits featuringoutstanding regional artists, as well as

local student and adult artists. Regulargallery hours are Thurs. 46 andSat.Sun. 13, as well as during per-formances or by appointment.

The Music Hall also stages threeannual festivals: The Summer PrideFestival highlights stories of parent-ing, marriage, faith, and love with thegoal of deepening cultural understand-

ing of gay and lesbian themes; theCentral Vermont Chamber MusicFestival features performances byoutstanding classical musicians; andthe annual New World Festival onLabor Day Sunday celebrates theregions Celtic and French Canadian


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THE SODA FOUNTAIN AT THE ROCHESTERCAF

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YOUNG ARTISTS AT CHANDLER CENTER FOR

THE ARTS. Chandler Center for the Arts


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heritage with performances by morethan 70 musicians in Chandler and all-

weather tents. Check the website forcurrent programming.

In August the Central VermontChamber Music Festival(centralvtchambermusicfest.org)includes performances in the area.

Rochester Chamber Music SocietyConcert Series (802-767-9234;rcmsvt.org) during June and July inRochester and Hancock Villagevenues.

Summer Park Concert Series

Rochester, summer Sunday evenings.The Playhouse Movie Theatre,Main St., Randolph, is the oldestmovie house in the state. Shows first-run flicks.

Randall Drive-In Movie Theatre,Rt. 12 in Bethel, operates weekends insummer.

The White River Valley Players(wrvp.org), a major community theaterin Rochester, performs a spring musi-cal and fall production in the highschool.

3 Selective ShoppingA R T / C R A F T S S T U D I O S A N D

G A L L E R I E S v Green MountainGlassworks (802-767-4547), 5523 Rt.100, Granville. Open Wed.Mon. 95

most of the year. Dont pass up thisexceptional roadside studio and gallery.Vermont natives Michael and AngelaEgan shape Venetian-style freehandblown glass into spectacular vases,pitchers, and a variety of art glass, rea-sonably priced glass earrings.

Judy Jensen Clay Studio (802-767-3271), Rt. 100 back behind the

Rochester Caf. Open daily. Jensenspottery ranges from tiny vases to largeurns, tile to chess sets, sculpture,handmade cards, and plenty of highlydecorative functional ware. She alsodisplays work in fiber.

BigTown Gallery(802-767-9670;bigtowngallery.com), 99 N. Main St.,Rochester Village. Open Wed.Sat.

105, Sun. 114. Anni Mackay designsand makes wearable art, but her studioshowcases an eclectic mix of paintings,sculpture, and furniture as well as

yarns and one-of-a-kind hats andscarves. The gallery features localartists with exhibits changing monthly.Its also a setting for piano rehearsalsand plays performed in the backyard

amphitheater.

S P E C I A L S T O R E S Sandys Books& Bakery(802-767-4258; seasonedbooks.com), 30 N. Main St., Rochester.Librarian Sandy Lincoln specializes insustainable lifestyles, wilderness tales,and renewable energy; the store is alsoa caf (see Eating Out) and sells a full

line of Vermont Soap Organics(Sandys husbands venture) as well ascrafted items, fresh flowers, and more.

The Bowl Mill (802-767-4711; out-side Vermont 800-828-1005), Rt. 100,Granville. Open 95 daily, year-round.

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MICHAEL EGAN AT WORK AT GREENMOUNTAIN GLASSWORKS, HANCOCK

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Decorative wooden bowls are nolonger made here but still sold at this

writing, along with toys, crafts, baskets,maple products.

Bud & Bellas Bookshop (802-728-5509), 27 N. Main St., Randolph. Pri-marily used books and childrens titles,also cards, Vermont titles.

G E N E R A L S T O R E S Floyds Gen-eral Store (802-725-5333), Rt. 66,Randolph Center, 1 mile from I-89,Exit 4. Open daily 7:307. The stores

vintage-1912 cash register is here, AlFloyd assures us, not for tourists but

because it works. The vintage SylvanAcorn potbellied stove is no longerhooked up, but locals as well as visitorslike to sit around it anyway. The store,

which offers veterinarian supplies, afull line of groceries, penny candy, anda magazine swap shelf, remains essen-tially the same village center thatFloyd inherited from his father.

Snowsville General Store (802-728-5252; snowsville.com), Rt. 12, EastBraintree. Owner Gene Booska, anavid hunter, stocks more than 400guns, from handguns to rifles, new andused, and U.S.-manufactured outdoorclothing such as Johnson Woolen Mill

jackets and pants; wood and used carsare also sold along with groceries and aselection of papers, just not The NewYork Times. The Round Oak stovehere burns away most of the year, thecenterpiece for this village gatheringspot.

The Tunbridge Store (802-889-5525), Rt. 110, Tunbridge. Open daily77, the 1830s village store is now

owned by Kathi and Scott Terami.They offer coffee and ice cream aswell as staples and Vermont products.Plans call for a deli and caf.

Also see Hubbards General Store inHancock and the South Royalton

Market under Eating Out, and theOriginal General Store in Pittsfieldin Killington/Rutland Area.

F A R M S Turkey Hill Farm (802-728-7064), 55 Turkey Hill Rd., Randolph

Center. This 50-acre farm is owned bysixth-generation Vermonters Stuart andMargaret Osha. They operate a microdairy and creamery with a farm storeselling their creamy yogurt and freshcheese as well as raw milk, pasture-raised meats (including veal), syrup,and veggies.

Green Mountain Girls Farm (802-

505-1767), 923 Loop Rd., Northfield(just off I-89, Exit 5). Mari Omlandand Laura Olsen are the enterprisinghands-on owners of this 20-acre hillfarm. Their farm store sells organicmeat (they raise pigs, goats, lambs,chickens, and turkeys) and a wide vari-ety of vegetables and herbs.

c Neighborly Farms of Vermont(802-728-4700; 888-212-6898;neighborlyfarms.com), 1362 CurtisRd., Randolph Center. Open Mon.Sat. 94. Rob and Linda Dimmick andtheir three children run an organicdairy and make organic cheeses that


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they sell at the farm store and througharea stores. Visitors are welcome to seethe cows and watch cheesemaking (callahead for days/hours) through the

viewing window in the store, whichalso features honey products from

Brookfield (the bees are raised on sev-eral local farms) and fresh goat cheese,lamb, eggs, four flavors of goats-milkcaramel from Fat Toad Farm in Brook-field, and floral wreaths and basketsfrom Spruce Lake Farm (also inBrookfield).

Fat Toad Farm (802-279-0098), 787Kibbee Rd., Brookfield. A family-run

goat farm producing artisanal cheesesand caramel handcrafted in smallbatches several times a week.

Brookfield Bees (802-276-3808),1148Kibbee Rd., Brookfield. From theirapiary Dan Childs and Marda Donneroffer raw honey and make candles andsoap.

cVermont Technical College Farm(802-728-3395) Rt. 66 east off I-89,

Exit 4. Tour the sugarhouse, appleorchard (pick your own in-season), anddairy barn.

Maple Ridge Sheep Farm (802-728-3081; mrsf.com) in Braintree, said tobe the oldest and largest Shetlandsheep farm in the country, produces

fleece, machine-washable sheepskin,yarn, knit and woven items, meat. Callfirst.

In the Rochester area% Sunshine Valley Berry Farm(802-767-3989), Rt. 100 north. Organicblueberries and raspberries, pre-picked or PYO, open in-season daily106.

North Hollow Farm (802-767-4255),Rt. 100. Maple syrup, gift baskets.

In Chelsea/StraffordRedrock Farm (802-685-2282; 866-685-4343; christmastrees.net), 2

Redrock Lane (off Jenkins Brook Rd.,which is off Rt. 110), Chelsea. Pick outyour Christmas tree any time of yearand have it shipped to youanywherein the contiguous 48 statesat Christ-mas. You can also order by mail but

you miss half the fun. Fish in the pondand paddle the boat.

L. H. Stowell & Son ChristmasTrees (802-276-3392), 1591 TwinPond Rd., Brookfield. A 200-acreChristmas tree farm offering choose &cut Christmas trees, from 4 to 20 feet.Inquire about the rental cottage on theproperty.

Lincoln Farm (802-728-9333), 3075Rt.66, Randolph Center. A seasonalfarm stand with produce, flowers, bak-ery, maple products, and honey.

F A R M E R S M A R K E T S are held inBethel Mayearly Oct., Mon. 36 atthe Band Shell Common; in Ran-dolph, Rt. 66, mid-MayOct. Sat. 92;atVermont Technical College, lateMayearly Oct., entrance to VTC,Randolph Center; in Chelsea, mid-MayColumbus Day weekend, Fri.36 on the North Common; on theSouth Royalton Town Green, mid-MayColumbus Day, Thurs. 36:30; inRochester, Sat. 9:301:30, southeastcorner of Park.

3 Special EventsLast Saturday of January: BrookfieldIce Harvest Festivalice cutting, icesculpting, hot food, sledding, skating,skiing.

March: Maple Open House Weekend(vermontmaple.org), local sugarhouses.

Mid-June: Held biannually,VermontHistory Expo is a two-day gatheringof Vermont historical societies fromthroughout the state, bringing theirexhibits to fill the Tunbridge Fair-grounds. Historic reenactments and

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demonstrations, music, grandstand,and many varied events. See vermonthistory.org/expo.

July: July 4 parades in Strafford andRochester, a bigger one in Randolph(usually over 5,000 spectators), withfood and crafts. Family Farm Festi-val, Randolph Center. Chandler Play-ers perform at Chandler Center forthe Arts, Randolph. Chelsea FleaMarket150 dealers cover bothgreens. Summer Night, a community-

wide celebration in Rochester.

JulyAugust: Randolph Gazebo

Series (802-728-3010)Tuesday-evening music. Summer music schoolworkshops at the Mountain School,Vershire. Huntington Farm Show,Strafford. Brookfield Blues Festival(August), off Rt. 65 in Brookfield. TheSouth Royalton Town Band, in busi-ness for more than a century, gives freeconcerts on the green Thursdayevenings. The Tweed River MusicFestival (tweedriverfestival.com) is amix of music, camping, midmonth inStockbridge.

September: New World Festival(newworldfestival.com), Sunday beforeLabor Day at the Chandler Music Hallin Randolph, features northern NewEngland and Celtic music, in additionto food and crafts.White River Val-

ley Festival, Bethel. TunbridgeWorlds Fair(tunbridgefair.com),Tunbridge, four days at midmonth,ongoing for more than 130 years in asuperb setting, definitely one of thecountrys most colorful agriculturalfairs with horse and oxen pulling, con-tra dancing, sheepdog trials, livestockand produce judging, horse racing,

amusement rides, pig races, ponyrides, and more. Harvest Fairon thepark in Rochester.

October:Vermont Sheep and WoolFestival, first weekend, at the Tun-bridge Fairgrounds.

November:Annual Hunters Supper,Barrett Hall, Strafford.


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sample: explorer's guide vermont, 13th ed

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