1. BeyondCobble Stones edinburgh

2. Editorial Beyond Cobblestones Tourism is jeopardized by clich. Ever since Lonely Planet made backpackingsome kind of cult, tourists following the mainstream hop-on hop-off travel styleseem to be redundant. In spite of Lonely Planet, it would be wrong to dismiss cli-chs completely because they are a clich for a reason. They are enjoyable. This gui-de will explore them and look beyond them as well. The historical city of Edinburghcan be experienced in an extraordinary and unique way. Much more lies beyondthe cobblestones of Edinburghs Old Town apart from spooky ghosts and whisky.To avoid open-minded visitors stumbling between the capitals cobblestones, thisguide offers you a bit of the best of the citys culture, history, literature, sports andfood. So why not spend a rainy day in one of the second-hand shops or try sugaryfudge in one of the factories? If, surprisingly, the sun is actually shining, visit theharbour or even climb to the top of Arthurs Seat for a chance to get rid of some ofthe calories put on while drinking beer during last nights pub crawl. A pub visit is a must for every Edinburgh trip. Without a pint of beer, haggisand bagpipe music the capital of Scotland would be a poorer place. So give it a try!Some clichs always have to be taken back home even if it turns out to be just atorn and old-fashioned kilt. Susanne Popp & Katharina Krger2

3. Table of ContentsOnce upon a time 5 The history of Scotland 6 Tales from a heart, a stone and a stool 7 Scottish history lessons by Mel Gibson? 9 About Medicine, Monro and Murderer 10 Edinburghs famous villains 12 The story-telling graveyard 15What colours life here? 17 The literary Edinburgh A tour through the city of literature 19 Following Rankin and Rowling 22 Kilts, Tartans and underwear 23 Come to the Ceilidh And learn to dance like the locals 25 Seasonal Guide to Edinburghs Festivals & Holidays 26 Sports 29 Highland games or when men wear skirts at sports 31 Second hand doesnt need to be old and tattered 32 Dos and Donts 34Whats to see? 35 24 hours in Edinburgh 36 Adventure Day in Edinburgh 39 Museums and Galleries in Edinburgh 41 Imperfectness of a sight 46Whats on the menu? 47 Three girls and a table full of Scottish dishes 48 Edinburgh Deep fried 51 Scottish Fudge Indulge your sweet tooth 53 Water of Life 55Out tonight? 58 Let whistle! 60 Nightlife and Entertainment 62Beyond the Rim 68 Arthurs Seat A bit of effort and sweat 69 Do you want to go to the seaside? 70 Get your feet on the board and take the waves 72 The Rosslyn Chapel 73Where to stay? 75 3

4. 20 Things to do in http://www.midlothian.gov.uk/Topic. aspx?TopicId=86Edinburgh Search for traces of the Knights Templar Listen to a live folk band Rosslyn ChapelFor example at the Royal Oak or Whist- Roslinlebinkies (See p. 60) 0131 4402159 (See p. 73) Dance at a ceilidh Disappear into the underworldThe Bongo Club Edinburgh Vaults37 Holyrood Road Mercat House0131 558 7604 28 Blair StreetTennaich Celeidhs Sail a boat 35 metres into the skySouth Hall, Pollock Halls Falkirk Wheel18 Holyrood Park Road Alvechurch Waterway Holidays0131 621 4709 Lime Road, Falkirk(See p. 25) 0845 126 4098 Find the toilets in the Dr. Jekyll Taste the Water of Lifeand Mr. Hyde Pub e.g. Glenkinchie Distillery112 Hanover Street Pencaitland, Tranent, East Lothian0131 228 4543 01875 342004 Spit on the Heart of Midlothian Come eyeball to eyeball with aHigh Street, in front of St. Giles Cathe- poltergeistdral (See p. 7) (See p. 15) Watch a parliament debate Watch Edinburgh turn goldCanongate Go up Calton Hill during sunset (See p.0131 348 5000 46) Travel into the dark ages Learn how fudge is madeInchcolm Abbey (See p. 53)Inchcolm Island, Kingdom of Fife Be open for a culinary experience01383 823 332 (See p. 47) Be a treasure seeker for a day Get lost in the many second handCramond Island, Firth of Forth and vintage shops Climb the seven hills of Edinburgh The best place to go is probably theCastle Rock, Arthurs Seat, Corstorphi- Grassmarket (See p. 32)ne Hill, Calton Hill, Braid Hills, Black- Get inspiration in the Elephantford Hill and Craiglockhart Hill House Go skiing in the Pentland Hills (See p. 23)Hillend Ski Centre Start a conversation with a strangerBiggar Road, Penicuik People are unbelievably open and0131 445 4433 friendly. Marion Kutter

5. Once upon a time...The story-telling and wickedest humour. For some locals this is typical tra-graveyard veller stuff like Nessie: The barten- ders in Greyfriar Bobbys Bar next to Cold wind is blowing. The sun the graveyard for example just shakesquints between the bald branches of their heads about visitors, taking pic-the trees, seagulls are screeching and tures of old dirty tomb-a dog is barking. A few stray visitors stones as seriously as if Bobby goesamble over the Greyfriars Kirk in Edin- they were the Royal in- Hollywoodburgh. It is considered to be one of the signia as well as placingscariest places on earth, at least accor- airplane-tickets, cuddly toys and freshding to some American broadcasting flowers on the grave of a Skye Terrierstations. Believing in spirits or not: the every day. According to an Edinburghgraveyard appears to be a place with a legend, this brave dog Bobby spent 14story to tell. years guarding the grave of his owner Located at the southern edge of John Gray un-the Old Town, many notable Edin-burgh residents have been buriedhere since the 16th century. One ofthe most famous ones is the judgeGeorge Mackenzie who found hisfinal rest in the Black Mausoleumin 1691. Since a vagrant tried tobreak into this tomb to get shelter,Mackenzies Poltergeist is said tohaunt between the graves. So morethan 500 unexplained incidents havebeen reported during the last 5 years.As even an exorcist was unable to dis-pel the supernatural forces, a new pad-lock on the Mausoleums door shouldguarantee the curious tourists safety.Fearless ghost- busters could however til he died himself. Totake part in the City of the Dead Ghost keep the legend alive, the Dog Aid So-Tour, which is today the only chan- ciety of Scotland erected a red granitece to access this spooky part of Edin- stone on Bobbys grave and a life-sizeburgh. And if you are open minded to statue of him was built in front of theparanormal phenomena the tour will Bar dedicated to him. The monumentreally present what it calls the weir- is Edinburghs smallest listed building.dest history with the wildest stories That sounds indeed like the perfect 15

6. What colours life here ?Come to the Ceilidh cing became the main ele-- And learn to dance ment of the Ceilidh.like the locals Nowadays there are dif- Bouncing and twirling people are ferent kinds ofeverywhere; it appears they are att- Ceilidh dancesempting to dance but failing miserab- depending only, at least to those whove never seen the area. Some-this sort of dancing before welcome times the speedto the Ceilidh! After observing the ap- of the dances differs asparent chaos for several minutes, it is well. For example thetime to work up the courage to join in, dances on the westdespite not knowing the steps. With coast are much fasterthe help of a Scottish gentleman who than the ones on theknows the ropes and using observation east coast.and imitation skills, it is quite possible At the BONGOto get used to the dances at the Ceilidh. Club several tourists, A Ceilidh [keli] is an event that who want to experience somethingconsists mostly of different dances traditionally Scottish first-hand, takeand involves Gaelic folk music. To take to the floor. This is normal but as Eilidhpart in such an adventure, a visit to the Steel confirmed, many locals come toBONGO Club is one of the best choices. join the dancing as well. The main mo-One of the organisers of this Club is Ei- tivation for attending a Ceilidh wouldlidh Steel and she was willing to answer be the social aspect and the fun. It issome questions concerning Ceilidh not surprising that a Ceilidh seems adancing. little like a dating agency comparable to Steel explained that Ceilidh is a speed-dating only with more spinning.Scottish Gaelic word which has evolved Partners usually change from dance tofrom Old Irish. Originally Ceilidh meant dance, if it is not a group dance, givinga social gathering. This can be associa- approximately three to five minutes toted with the fact that family-members explore whether the chemistry is rightand friends from the Highlands often or not.lived far away from each other. Conse- Being a novice at Ceilidh dancingquently they came up with a big event is no problem because there is alwaysto unite the whole family and celebrate someone who explains the steps. Youtogether. Such a feast involved, among are free to skip dances in order to re-other things, songs, story telling and lax and to catch your breath, but youdancing, although over the years dan- should grab the chance to dance and 25

7. Whats to see ?24 hours in Edinburgh If you are only in Edinburgh for 1 day and you think you can not see everything,you are wrong. The next pages will show you the best of Edinburgh condensed into24 hours. This will guide you through the mysterious streets of Scotlands capitalcity, walking in the same footsteps as J.K. Rowling, the royal family, and Sir. WalterScott.First things first: get tickets into Edinburgh castle from their website atwww.edinburghcastle.gov.uk 8:30 am Begin the day with a big traditional Scottish breakfast at the Elephant House [1] on George Bridge. This is within walking distance to your first destination the Edinburgh Castle. (See p. 22) 9:30 am 11:30 am The Castle [2], being in the heart of In the Scotch Whisky Heritage Cen- the city, is a great starting point for tre [3] you will be immersed in the your day trip. Walking through the history of Whisky while driving on rooms leads you back through the their barrels amusement ride. (See centuries. Take a lot of pictures and p. 55) enjoy the view of the city. 12:30 pm Walk down Royal Mile and visit the St. Giles Cathedral [4].36

8. Whats on the menu ? Deuchars"heart attack" Shortbread Haggis Haggis the Scottish national dish came to Scotland with the Vikings. Notwas immortalised by Robert Burns only did Robert Burns make Haggis me-poem Address to a Haggis. Dark mys- morable forever, but he was also res-teries entwine around the traditional ponsible for it becoming the nationalrecipe for Haggis and nobody is too dish of Scotland. This is why the 25thkeen on revealing what the list of ingre- of January is dedicated to Robert Burnsdients consists of. and celebrated by reciting his poem Jonathan Crombie is the third ge- and eating Haggis.neration of the family which owns the Each country has its own recipe butfamily-run business Crombies of Edin- they are generally quite alike. The tradi-burgh. He is an expert in Haggis and tional recipe contains the innards of anmeat products. He was willing to reveal animal, usually a sheep, suet, stock andsome of the secrets and to do away seasoning. The Scottish recipe standswith widespread prejudices. out by adding oatmeal whereas other Tracing back the dishs origin one countries might have used potatoes,discovers that it makes its first appea- beans or something similar to add somerance in Scandinavia and most likely distinct flavour. Part of the reason why 47

9. Out tonight ?Lets whistle! to Thursday, four live bands perform every single evening until 3am where- as Friday and Saturday, there may be It is Wednesday, 9:30pm. In Edin- up to six live gigs perburgh, it is getting dark outside and night. Everybody hasthe numbers on the streets are dwind- the opportunity toling. It seems as if nobody is in a kind perform in an openof clubbing mood in the middle of the mic night sessionweek. Just a few rough and die-hard taking place eachpeople sit in pubs drinking and chat- Monday from 9pmting. But, there is music booming out of to 3am. Especiallyan inconspicuous pub on South Bridge. on Tuesday, Whist-The name Whistlebinkies is gleaming lebinkies often getsin the darkness. Getting closer, a sign quite crowded dueon which live music is posted can be to the fact thatspotted. four bands are invited to feature their own songs. This is the day whenTry to whistle with a binky! the stage becomes a showcase. It is the day for musicians making the most of For nights out, Edinburgh has much the chance of being spotted and ra-to offer. Not only does it boast places ted as the next upcoming idols. Musiclike Grassmarket and Leith, but South agents and managers even sneak inBridge - a street crossing touristy Royal and mingle amongst the audience.Mile - is also worth a visit. At the bot- Not only does the music mix co-tom of South Bridge, Whistlebinkies ver rock, pop, indie, alternative andcan be found. It is a must for everybody R&B, but it also includes traditional folkwhos into live music. tunes. The audience is widely mixed, too. Live musicTime to blow the whistle! Whistlebinkies attracts every night locals, tourists, stu- Music is a matter of taste. Some dents, groups, couples as well as sin-follow the mainstream whereas others gles moving to the music. It is a pubare more into the independent music where all generations come togetherculture. Whistlebinkies though, offers and enjoy the special atmosphere ofa wide range of music genres. There is the place in their own way.live music every single night. Visitors Leather benches and wine barrelscan enjoy live gigs without charge apart for tables create its charm and cosyfrom Friday and Saturday free entry atmosphere. Why does it always rainbefore midnight only. Some people just on me? Is it because I lied when I wasstop by and have a drink or two. Sunday seventeen? comes from the lyrics by60